Insulation of the facade by polystyrene technology

Comfort and energy efficiency depend on keeping your house cool and comfortable in the summer and warm and inviting in the winter. Using polystyrene technology to insulate your home’s exterior is one efficient way to accomplish this. This technique has major energy savings and positive environmental effects in addition to helping control indoor temperature.

Expanded polystyrene (EPS) rigid foam boards are applied to your home’s external walls as a method of polystyrene insulation. These sturdy, lightweight boards serve as a barrier to keep heat from escaping in the winter and from entering in the summer. Polystyrene insulation helps to maintain a constant indoor temperature by minimizing heat transfer through walls, which improves the comfort of your living area all year round.

The high thermal resistance, or R-value, of polystyrene insulation is one of its main benefits. The ability of a material to resist heat flow is measured by its R-value, and EPS foam has good insulation qualities. This implies that, in comparison to conventional techniques, you can achieve considerable energy savings even with a relatively thin layer of polystyrene insulation. Furthermore, EPS’s lightweight design makes it simple to handle and install, saving money on labor and time.

In addition to providing thermal insulation, polystyrene technology has other advantages for homeowners. Because the foam boards are moisture-resistant, the growth of mold and mildew inside the walls is impeded. This extends the life of your home’s structure and enhances the quality of the air inside. Furthermore serving as a sound barrier to lessen outside noise transmission, polystyrene insulation makes a home quieter and more serene.

It’s important to evaluate the long-term advantages of polystyrene technology when thinking about insulation options for your home. Even though EPS foam may initially cost a little more than traditional insulation materials, its durability and energy savings make it a smart investment in your home’s long-term comfort and efficiency. For many years to come, your home will be cozier, quieter, and more ecologically friendly with polystyrene insulation.

We get acquainted with the material – extruded polystyrene foam "Penopolex"

In relation to fencing, polystyrene foam is not the ideal material for insulating a residential building’s exterior walls from the heat. The owners should be concerned about several of his shortcomings, which are listed below. Nonetheless, the polystyrene group’s hard heaters are highly convenient to use, have excellent thermal insulation, and are reasonably priced. As a result, their level of popularity doesn’t decline.

If polystyrene foam is chosen, however, it is preferable to stick with the less expensive white foam rather than the extruded kind. Though the author is not a proponent of this approach, a lot of requests regarding wall insulation specifically using foam enlivery compel consideration of this matter.

Thus, when it comes to extruded polystyrene foam options, it’s possible that nothing beats the Penoplax brand’s offerings, so you shouldn’t bother looking elsewhere. By the way, the name of these products has already become well-known and has evolved into a term for the "foam" that these material slabs—even those made by other businesses—are now known by. We will still talk about branded products, though.

You might be curious to know more about the applications of this range of extruded polystyrene foam, such as a halop-ex foundation.

Penoplex slabs, as we shall refer to them from now on, are rigid insulation panels with distinct geometric dimensions. Orange is a distinctive color for products with branding. The docking edges at the plate edges are supplied according to the "quarter" principle; this makes installation incredibly easy and produces a nearly seamless surface.

The material’s structure is homogeneous strict porous; it is made up of tiny, gas-filled, closed cells that are not in communication with one another. The foam’s exceptional insulating properties are a result of this "airiness."

The range of products is extremely broad. However, using two types is optimal in our situation, which is wall insulation. The words "comfort" and "facade" are elegant. We have made every effort to tailor these products for this purpose.

Pools of foam with pons

Penoplex comfort

The following table provides an overview of the primary attributes of these plates:

The name of indicators	Unit	"Penopropox – Comfort "	"Foam-Penx Fasada "
Density	kg/m ³	from 25 to 35	from 25 to 35
Compression strength at 10% of linear deformation, no less	MPa	0.18	0.2
The strength of the material for bending	MPa	0.25	0.25
Water absorption in the first day, no more	% of volume	0.4	0.5
Water absorption in the first month, no more	% of volume	0.5	0.55
Fire resistance category	group	G4	G3
Thermal conductivity coefficient at (25 ± 5) ° C	W/(M × ° C)	0.030	0.030
The calculated thermal conductivity under operating conditions "A" (normal)	W/(M × ° C)	0.031	0.031
The calculation coefficient of thermal conductivity under operating conditions "B" (high humidity)	W/(M × ° C)	0.032	0.032
Sound insulation of the partition (GKL-Penopolex® 50 mm-gkl), RW	dB	41	41
Index of improving structural noise insulation in the floor structure	dB	23	23
Standard dimensions:
width	mm	600	600
length	mm	1200	1200
thickness	mm	20; thirty; 40; 50; 60; 80; 100; 120; 150	20; thirty; 40; 50; 60; 80; 100; 120; 150
The temperature range of operation	° C	from -100 to +75	from -100 to +75

It makes sense to enumerate the primary benefits and drawbacks of this content in order to make the otherwise "dry numbers" more comprehensible and talkative.

• Insulation abilities – very high. The heat conductivity coefficient even for the most unfavorable operating conditions is not higher than 0.032 W/m × k. Perhaps, perhaps, polyurethane foam can argue with such characteristics, but there is a completely different degree of complexity of thermal insulation, and the price level is completely different.
• The material practically does not absorb moisture. With direct contact with water, he can “accept” up to 0.5% of its volume during the first day, and everything stops on this, already regardless of the duration of operation in such conditions. And half a percent is only a thin surface layer, while the rest of the material is completely dry. And this, in turn, suggests that even in the most unfavorable conditions, the foam does not lose its thermal insulation qualities. For example, it is used for underground insulation of foundations, and contact with wet soil does not care.

• Penoplex is an obstacle to water vapor – it is almost impenetrable for them. This, by the way, is far from always a dignity. In particular, for outdoor insulation of walls it would be better to ensure a vapor permit capacity so that the walls, so to speak, “breathe”. Foamyplex will not provide such an opportunity, unlike foam (although this ability is not particularly pronounced). So, you have to focus on the internal vapor barrier of the walls, or very effective ventilation of the premises so that the walls are not raw. And then to completely avoid the likelihood of such a phenomenon is very difficult.
• One of the most important advantages of the foam is its mechanical strength. And this is along with a very low density. The material is not afraid of high loads (within the rational, of course) for compression and for the break. At the same time, the foam is easy to reveal the simplest tools.

• The durability of the material is estimated at least 50 years, but there may be more. It does not rot and does not, has (unlike foam) a stable chemical structure, is not a nutrient medium for parasitic microflora and insects. Under normal conditions of operation (without critical overheating), it does not emit toxic fumes into the atmosphere (again, plus compared to white polystyrene foam).
• Clear geometric forms (the main standard used 600 × 1200 mm) and the presence of "locks" along the edges greatly simplify the installation. And a large assortment of thickness allows you to choose slabs for any insulation structure.

Additionally, the foam has some shortcomings that need to be considered before deciding how to use it:

• The main one, of course, is that the material cannot be treated with non -combustible. Yes, the use of antipyrene at the production stage reduce its fire and make it selfless. This, by the way, is more expressed in the “facade” – it belongs to the Comfortable “G3” combination, while “comfort” – to the lower “G4”. On the Internet – as many examples of charred buildings insulated with polystyrene foam. But combustion is not the worst. With thermal decomposition, extremely toxic gaseous products are distinguished, which pose without exaggeration a mortal danger. So these circumstances should at least alert the owners of the house.

Nobody should be trusted because foam is not a non-combustible substance. Additionally, burning releases extremely toxic gases, which frequently end up being the primary cause of fire-related tragedies.

• Not everything is safe in the foam with resistance to chemically active substances. Yes, with most building solutions it shows inertia. However, there is a list of materials with which he is contraindicated. These include:

– oil products, such as motor oils, kerosene, gasoline, and diesel fuel;

– acetone and additional ketone group solvents;

– polyester compounds, which are frequently employed as composition hardeners based on epoxy;

– Toluol, formaldehyde, formalin, and benzene;

– coal tar and wood;

– Every kind of oil paint.

Knowing this can be helpful because the complex frequently handles the waterproofing and insulation of building structures. Additionally, a wide variety of materials are used for waterproofing, so compatibility must be taken into consideration when choosing.

• Requires polystyrene foam and mandatory protection against ultraviolet rays.

Therefore, the home’s owner must assess what, in his view, outweighs the material’s benefits or drawbacks. Furthermore, if the foam is chosen, then truly proprietary goods ought to be bought. The truth is that retailers may offer a slab to a customer under this "collectively" that has no idea where it came from. Unfortunately, the percentage of low-grade fakes in this area of production material production is higher than I would like.

General information about wall insulation using the “wet facade” technology

The structure of the insulation structure

Indeed, this is the name of the technology that will be given more thought. She is not the only one, of course, but she is among the most well-liked and manageable enough for solo work.

It appears that the word "wet" in the name refers to the fact that the insulation layer is adhered to a "wet" building solution and then sealed with a "wet" plaster layer.

This is how it appears: This is how it appears:

Wall insulation plan using technology known as "wet facade"

Insulation will be installed on the house’s exterior wall (pos. 1). She undoubtedly has or will have some sort of finish from the inside and the side of the room (pos. 2).

A layer of special adhesive composition is applied to the outside of the wall (pos. 3) and foam plate plates are mounted (pos. 4) to the necessary thickness. Next, a thin layer of plaster (pos. 5) with required reinforcement is applied on top of this thermal insulation layer, up to a thickness of 5 mm. Lastly, the chosen facade finish is crowned (pos. 6). This finish can be facade paint or decorative plaster, for example. Other options for decoration might exist; it all depends on the hosts’ tastes.

Crucial: the heater slabs are adhered to the carrier wall using adhesive. It is true that mechanical fixing using specialized devices is also done for increased tenderness. This will be explained in more detail below.

Think about the overall workflow and a few key details in brief.

Briefly – about the sequence of work

Preparatory stage

Initially, the wall’s surface needs to be meticulously prepared.

If there was any old paint on the exfoliating or "baking" plaster, it needs to be cleaned off. Oily or polluted areas are eliminated.

In the event that mold or fungal lesion remnants are found, the wall must be "treated" with a unique antiseptic mixture first. And only to proceed following a favorable outcome.

A wall that exhibits indications of moss, mold, lichen, or fungus must be "treated" with a strong, specialized substance. The application process is described on the packaging.

Such processing on the old walls will generally be beneficial in any event. As "illness" symptoms can be concealed for a while, it is best to take precautions.

To the greatest extent possible, all irregularities must be eliminated; ledges must be lowered, and potholes must be sealed. It is not acceptable to leave cracks unchecked; instead, they should be deeply and widely cut, and then, following priming, tightly filled with the cement-based repair composition. You can use specialized putty for repairs.

It is unacceptable to conceal non-cramped cracks and fissures with a layer of insulation!

You will need to perform the entire black plastering process if the irregularities are severe and there is a noticeable fracture in the wall’s plane. Although evenness (a difference of no more than 10 mm per linear meter is desirable, such a defect can already be leveled with glue when mounting the plates) should be observed, rather than a perfectly smooth surface.

There might be metal structures on the front of the house, like brackets for satellite antennas or external air conditioners. They all need to be prepped as well, with rust removed and anti-corrosion paint applied. Iron sword is a useful tool for this kind of processing.

It is advised that all of the metal components on the facade be treated with iron suck following cleaning.

And lastly, the meticulous priming of the wall surfaces during the preparatory work. This is required to achieve high adhesion with adhesive composition as well as to strengthen their surface.

The choice of primer type is contingent upon the composition of the capital wall.

The composition of a deep penetration is appropriate for any absorbent wall, and it should be applied to at least two sunsets. The second layer should be applied after the first has fully absorbed and dried. Additionally, soil from the "concrete contact" category—which has fine sandy sand filling and produces surface roughness—is preferable for smooth concrete surfaces.

You can move on to installing the insulation plates once the final coat of primer has dried.

Nuances of installation of foam plates

The installation of the starting profile, also known as a basement profile, marks the start of this stage. This building component serves two crucial purposes. It first establishes the evenness of the masonry and serves as support for the lower row of plates. Second, from the side where they won’t be plastered over, the profile will serve as protection for the foam troops.

The perfectly horizontal line is beaten off before the profile is installed. As the plates rise upward, even a slight skew will cause more mistakes and a breach of the evenness of the styling.

The starting profile shelf’s width and the insulation plates’ thickness should match precisely.

The diagram illustrates the installation principle of the profile:

The basement’s attachment plan and the docking of its surrounding areas

Dowel mounts are used to secure the basement (pos. 1) to the wall (poses. 2). Naturally, this "regiment" should be assigned to the entire house, or the walls where insulation is installed, excluding the doorways. Special plastic inserts can be used (pos. 3) to ensure that neighboring profiles accurately continue each other, allowing alignment within a limited range. There must always be a 3 mm deformation gap between the profiles. Additionally, unique connecting elements are used to join the horizontal shelves of profiles (poses.4). Depending on the shelf width and the thickness of the plates being used, there may be one or two of these inserts.

Attaching the profile at the corners may present challenges. The video down below demonstrates how to do it.

Video: how a basement profile is mounted

The plates should only be glued together using a specific composition intended for thermal insulation applications. Other, less expensive "analogues," like tile glue, are not permitted. Additionally, breeding the mixture should only be done strictly in compliance with the instructions that are attached, without any "amateur performances."

A unique combination for thermal insulation that works with "Wet Facade" technology is one example.

At this point, there will be a significant glue consumption of roughly 5 kg/m². However, there is no escaping this.

Prices for Volma glue

Volma thermopasad

When applying glue to slabs, there are specific guidelines to follow. Examining the plan will make them easier to comprehend:

An approximate plan for applying glue to foam stoves

Around 100 mm wide, a continuous glue strip is positioned around the edge of the plate. Additionally, rounded slides with a diameter of roughly 200 mm are located in the center. The size of the glued fragment will already determine how many there are. The height of the slides and stripes is roughly 20 mm, but if you need to remove tiny surface irregularities, it could be a little bit bigger.

It is permissible to apply and distribute glue using a gear spatula with a comb-rowing height of 10 mm over the whole plate if the wall is perfectly flat.

It is advised to clean the plate on both sides with a metal brush, coarse grater, or even the teeth of a hacksaw before putting the glue on it. Following this kind of processing, all dust and small sawdust should be swept away. Additionally, delectable masters advise processing Gilly Tricks "Concrete Contact" in its entirety. To put it mildly, adhesion with building solutions at the foam is irrelevant, and without these kinds of preliminaries, everything can "go to dust."

Now, let’s talk about where the plates go on the wall and the guidelines for filling in certain spaces.

• The slabs are joined as tight as possible to each other. Castle joints facilitate this task. Where the locks have to be cut, or when using scraps, when adjusting fragments, they try to minimize the gaps.
• When gluing the plate, it is very tightly pressed to the surface, so that the glue is evenly distributed on the back surface so that the maximum possible contact with the wall is provided. The excesses of the glue that performed on the perimeter are immediately removed.
• The principle of “dressing” of plates should be observed in the corners, that is, their connection with a “gear castle”.
• The rows of plates are laid out according to the principle of brickwork with a displacement of vertical seams by at least 200 mm. At the same time, it is necessary to immediately “pretend” in advance so that there are no unfilled fragments with a length of less than 200 mm.

The smallest filling fragment should not be less than 200 mm, wherever it may be found.

• Many errors are allowed when installing plates around window and doorways. It is completely unacceptable for the seam line of the surrounding plates to coincide with the imaginary line of continuation of the opening vertical or horizontal. The largest stresses are observed in these areas, and with the wrong approach, plaster will subsequently certainly crack.

It makes sense to want to save as much money as possible. However, only the facade finishes in these regions will be weak.

The diagram below illustrates the appropriate procedure, omitting the emergence of cracks.

The proper method for framing doors and windows.

A complete fragment of Peta with a carved corner should be present on each corner. Furthermore, this corner’s "wings" ought to be at least 200 mm long.

• When framing the openings, the allowance of the plates is made inside the opening, for subsequent docking with the insulation of the slopes. This is usually 50 mm.
• If there is a deformation seam or a joint of wall panels on the capital wall, it should be completely blocked by slabs. In this case, the displacement of the nearest seam should be at least 200 mm.

The primary substance used to attach the plates to the wall should be glue. And only after its seizure does a second fixation using dowels—also known as "fungi"—occur. These components’ lengths are selected so that the dowel’s working spacer penetrates the wall by a minimum of 45 mm.

Typically, "fungi" are placed in the corners and one in the middle of the plates. It is advised to stir them at the seam intersection to save money because multiple nearby plates can be supported simultaneously by a single dowel.

"Fungi" is the suggested option for dowel placement. The cost is about six pieces per square meter.

To prevent cold bridges, the last remaining cracks and spaces between the slabs are filled in after the final fixation. Mounting foam can be used for this purpose. A flush with the entire surface of the mounted insulation layer is severed once the foam has expanded and solidified to remove any remaining material.

Applying a protective plaster reinforced layer

Delaying this step after the installation of insulation is not advised. UV light and polyurethane foam should have negligible effects. Additionally, it is advisable to close the thermal insulation against wind-driven precipitation as soon as possible.

The same composition that is used for glued plates is typically used for work. The steps in the stage are roughly completed in this order:

It is advised to begin construction from the corners of door and window openings and the angles of the walls. To do this, unique plaster profiles—plastic corners with mesh "wings"—are utilized. Slopes can also be completed concurrently; these can be achieved by applying 50 mm-thick foam stripes that are adhered to with glue.

Plaster profile for angles that are reinforced

A section of wall covered in foam is treated with a thin, roughly 2 mm thick solution (it doesn’t matter if the area is straight or a corner). To make the reinforcement process easier, you can distribute the composition with a gear spatula for convenience.

A fiberglass grid that has recently been applied is "drowning" in the raw, freshly applied material in the corners. This is a profile with "wings" on an even surface that is a strip that was cut off the roll; typically, it is 1000 mm wide. Using a wide spatula or cell, the strip is rolled vertically from top to bottom and shed in a solution. Crucial: the applied layer must completely submerge the entire mesh. The basement’s mesh is precisely cut from below. Proceed to the next website after that.

Plastering reinforcing mesh "flowing" in the glue solution layer that has been applied

The grid must be renewed by a minimum of 100 mm in all adjacent strips (including those that run along the lines where plaster profiles transition to straight sections of the wall). A horizontal overlap of two stripes positioned one above the other must be at least 150 mm in order to be necessary.

Following the completion of the reinforcement, the solution is made available for grasp. Depending on the characteristics of the mixture and the street’s weather, this could take a few hours or a full day. Subsequently, a second covering layer of the same composition is applied, accomplishing the surface alignment at the same time. The application is roughly 2 mm thick if decorative plaster is to be used for further decoration, or slightly thicker at 3 mm if facade paint is to be used.

It is evident that there is no need to iron the applied covering layer to perfection when decorating with decorative plaster. However, you will obviously need to make more adjustments to achieve the cleanest grout and surface grinding if you intend to stain.

However, these are already design-related concerns. In actuality, insulation employing the "wet facade" technology comes to an end at this point.

You might be curious to learn more about the features of the prison complex’s insulation.

What needs to be calculated before starting work?

There are two primary inquiries:

• What thickness should there be a foam plate to ensure a full -fledged thermal insulation of the walls.
• How many materials will be required to work.

We’ll do our best to respond, and our tool of choice will be an online calculator.

Calculation calculator of the required thickness of the insulation

Thermal insulation should be installed so that the wall’s overall thermal resistance meets or exceeds the Dann 6th region’s established values.

Thermal resistance normalized (m³ × k/W). Based on the scheme map shown below, you can locate it. Value is appropriated "for walls."

The map-scheme of the Russian Federation’s territory that shows the standard values of building structures’ thermal resistance

– The house’s wall’s thickness and composition.

If preferred, you can consider the intended interior and exterior wall décor. The thickness of the insulation may change depending on which materials are able to enhance the material’s capacity for thermal insulation. You can omit this step if you don’t want to get into the nuances because the influence is usually not that great.

You can "go" into the calculator if all the data is available. The millimeters of the outcome will be displayed. This is the lowest value, which is then roughly rounded to the typical polystyrene troop thicknesses.

They determined how thick the plates were. You now have to locate their phone number. Well, along the route, the quantities required for the acquisition of additional materials.

Calculator of calculating materials for insulation using "wet facade" technology

Everything is straightforward in this case; the computation is done from the intended insulation area. 10% traditional stock is given for all materials.

There is only a basement and plaster corners to frame the openings and corners in the calculator. However, since every home is different and the amount of these materials used doesn’t depend on the size of the wall surfaces, this will need to be measured on the spot.

Here are some tips on selecting wall insulation in the country that might be of interest to you.

Today’s homes prioritize comfort and energy efficiency, so using polystyrene technology for facade insulation makes sense as a workable and efficient solution. Homeowners can minimize heat gain during warmer months and drastically reduce heat loss during colder ones by adding a layer of polystyrene insulation to their exterior walls. This technology lowers energy costs by minimizing the need for heating and cooling, in addition to improving the building’s thermal performance. Polystyrene insulation is also a reasonably priced option for enhancing the general energy efficiency and comfort of any home because it is lightweight, simple to install, and long-lasting.

An example of conducting wall insulation according to the “wet facade” technology – step by step, with comments

Instantly a tiny reservation. Above, the foam was the main focus. Here is also an illustration of insulation made with white foam blocks. The reader shouldn’t be bothered by this because it has little bearing on the "wet facade’s" technology. With foam, joining the slabs during installation may even be a little simpler because of the locking edges.

However, the foam retains some vapor permeability, so there’s less chance of a wet wall than there would be with a foamyplex. Thus, there’s something to consider.

Illustration	A brief description of the operations performed
	Start with the preparation of the wall. all the ledges and influxes of the masonry solution are removed. Nothing should interfere with the insulation plate tightly pressed against the wall with its entire area.
	Failures, on the contrary, are flooded with a common surface. repair (expansion and subsequent sealing) cracks and cracks. Then you have to wait for the solution to dry in the repair sites.
	The surface of the wall should be cleared of adhering dirt and dust. The old paint is also removed – everything that can harm good adhesion when gluing plates.
	The next step is the priming of the wall. This example uses a primer of deep penetration.
	For the first layer on the absorption surface, it is recommended to dilute the primer with water by about 30 ÷ 35%. So it is absorbed deeper into the base.
	In large areas with the initial application of the primer, it is convenient to use the spray. It turns out much faster. If not, you will have a brush or roller
	With primary priming, there is no reason to save on a diluted solution. Everything should be moistened abundantly, without leaving passes. Increased attention, as always, to complex areas, and especially the inner angles.
	After the primary layer is completely absorbed and dry, the second is applied, but already with soil in normal concentration. It is better to use a wide maclovic brush, literally rubbing the composition into the surface of the wall.
	With priming is completed, and after the walls drying out, you can fix the basement profile. A perfectly horizontal line at the planned height should be applied for this.
	How the basement (starting) profile is attached – has already been shown and told above. We will not be repeated.
	Foam troops are recommended on both sides a little “disheveled” – walk along them with a special needle roller, metal brush or rough grater. All small sawdusts formed at the same time, necessarily shake off.
	Preparing glue for plates. He usually has a good “life span”, but still it is worth it as much as it is guaranteed to be consumed for about an hour. If you began to grasp the container – everything, end, no addition of water to it can no longer be “revive”. And you have to throw away the unused rest.
	The glue is kneaded in the proportion specified by the manufacturer. In this case, the dry mixture is added to a measured amount of water, but not vice versa.
	Kneading is carried out by a construction mixer. achieve a completely homogeneous consistency, then a pause is given for 5 minutes to ripen, then another energetic collapse – and the composition is ready for work.
	Glue is applied to the stove. According to what scheme this is done – it was said earlier. Truth – one nuance. Please note that the stripes around the perimeter are laid out so that the peak of their height is closer to the middle of the stove. This “trick” will give after pressing the plate less than a solution squeezed along the edges, which will have to, one way or another, to remove.
	The plate smeared with glue is installed in place and tightly pressed to the surface of the wall. The illustration shows the installation not on the starting profile, but on the previously made insulation belt of the basement of the basement. But this is a particular one that does not affect the "general course of events". But the stretched cord for accurate control over the horizontal of the laid out a series can become a very useful help.
	Each plate should be checked for the evenness of the installation in the vertical plane. , if necessary, you have to attach power by threading through the plate through the gasket – for example, a piece of board.
	About the masonry scheme has already been said, so only a few nuances. The illustration shows a locking of the slabs on the outer corner. How is it done practically?
	One plate is already glued, and its end is smoothly coincided with the line of the corner of the building. The second is applied on the next wall with a small protrusion for the level of an already mounted slab.
	This protrusion after hardening the glue will be easy to cut off later with a hacksaw. The next row on this site will be mounted in the opposite sequence.
	An important point is on the site where neighboring plates are joined between themselves (shown by blue hatching), there should be no glue in any case! Anyway, for the future – glue should never be used either to connect neighboring plates or to fill out possible gaps between them. And the slabs themselves should only be pressed as tightly to each other.
	And this is a compulsory lock ligation of the plates in the inner corner.
	Do not forget about the rules for framing window and doorways.
	Plates in the indicated example use thick. Therefore, where the window tide will be located, the master prudently made a cut at a slight angle.
	The work continues in the same order until the entire area of the insulated walls is closed. If the height of the walls is large, you will have to provide construction forests or long high goats. From the ladder here – you will not work out ..
	After the installation of the plates, all the cracks and gaps are sealed with mounting foam ..
	… the excess of which, after expansion and solidification, is cut off the surface with the surface.
	You can immediately check the surface for the presence of small steps, bumps, etc.P. The attached rule will immediately find them.
	And they are quite easily liquidated by a grater with a coarse -grained sandpaper on it.
	The entire wall is covered with thermal insulation slabs. We wait for the glue to freeze.
	The next stage is the additional mechanical fixation of the slabs-"fungi". A drill of the desired diameter is installed on the perforator, a drilling depth limiter is set – the length of the “fungus” plus more than 15 mm.
	Directly through the insulation in the wall in the right place, the hole is drilled – until the limiter stops into the plate.
	The “fungus” is inserted into the hole and seated with a hand to a tight stop into the plate.
	Then, depending on the design of the "fungus", the central spacer self -tapping screw is screwed into it ..
	… or the spacer is driven. If a thermal head is provided (plug of the central hole), then it is immediately installed in place.
	This continues throughout the area of the wall, until all the plates receive the final fixation. can be placed to plastering.
	The same plaster-red solution is prepared again. Proportion of preparation – unchanged.
	An important nuance. Remember, there was a conversation about maximum stress in the corners of window and doorways? So, so that the decoration does not go here, it is recommended not only to lay a whole fragment of the slab, but also to perform additional reinforcement with such diagonal liths of fiberglass mesh. is applied with a layer of 2-3 mm adhesive composition, and the segments of the stack, located at an angle of 45 degrees. The edge of the grid should go along the top of the angle of the opening. This is done at all four corners of the window openings, on two – at the door.
	The edges of the slopes are reinforced. At first, the master works on the upper side, using a plaster profile with mesh “wings” ..
	… and then, in a similar way – and with the rest of the side on the perimeter of the opening.
	An additional reinforcing lining from the net of the grid is recommended to be glued into the solution and at the inner angles of the openings.
	Having finished with the openings, they move to the corners of the building. The same plaster profile is also used here.
	Next, reinforcement of insulated wall surfaces begins. First, thin, 2 mm, layer of plastered and clay composition is applied. It is distributed on the surface. You should not capture too much area – because it will be necessary to have time to paste the grid before grasping. Usually they work from top to bottom with stripes, based on the gluing of one or two meter canvases into them (depending on the height of the wall, and on the personal experience of such an operation).
	Further, grooves (kelma) are applied with grooves. Their direction does not matter – as it will be more convenient. But usually they “plow” them vertically.
	A strip of a grid of the required length is cut off. Its gluing will be carried out from top to bottom. First, the grid is temporarily fixed in place by simple pressing to the solution.
	Then with a wide cell (spatula) with an effort is shed in a layer of glue. In no case should there be missed areas.
	The entire mesh should completely “drown” in a solution, the surface of which will simultaneously be leveled. In this case, folds or wrinkles of the grid should be categorically excluded.
	Having finished with one vertical strip, glue the following. In this case, the overlap of the strips should be at least 100 mm. on many reinforcing grids, the boundary of this mandatory overlap is applied. Further – all the same: applying a layer of glue, “plowing” the furrows, fixation of the grid, swing, etc.D.
	Reinforcement of the internal angles of walls will not require special profiles. just about 100 mm of a grid from one wall is started to the second.
	And when the rod strip is glued to the second wall, then 100 mm is started on the first. Such “counter -reinforcing” gives a very good result. The main thing is that there is no jamming and bubbles to form.
	Such a neat angle should learn in the end.
	Work continues in the same order. along the window and doorways of the strips of the grids should overlap with the mesh "wings" of previously glued plastering profiles.
	The reinforcing plaster layer should be given time to dry, but usually no more than a day is dangerous to tighten. And so that it does not go cracks, especially in hot weather, it should be periodically moistened with water, for example, from a spray gun or garden sprayer giving very small drops.
	After a day you can check the quality of the resulting surface. If there are small influxes that are uneven, then they can be carefully removed. But not an abrasive grater (so easy to damage the grid), but simply a spatula, acting it like a scraper.
	You can check the surface and for the presence of "failures" – using the proposed rule.
	If such are found, then they are easy to bring them to the overall level with a small portion of the solution ironed by the rule.
	Further, they begin to apply the last, aligning layer of the same plaster and cell composition. And again it is better to start with slopes, already finally giving them a neat appearance.
	Next – go to the walls. As already mentioned, under further decorative plastering should be applied about 2 mm. For staining, a little more – 3 ÷ 4 mm is better.
	Naturally, when applying this layer, they try to iron the surface as much as possible, prepare it for subsequent "decoration". But this is already, to be honest – the transition to the finish area, that is, goes beyond our consideration.

Thus, the article covered the fundamentals of employing "wet facade" technology to insulate external walls. Even for someone who is taking the task for the first time, it is not an easy task. The most important things are to follow instructions precisely and thoroughly research every technological function.

However, we must stress once more that using polystyrene foam for external wall insulation is extremely risky and far from ideal. You ought to reconsider your choice ten times before acting on it. Basalt wool is a far more dependable material for the wet facade. These are unique, highly dense blocks that are also readily adhered to the wall surface and plastered.

To make a warning more understandable – watch a small video. And be sure to get acquainted with the comments to him. There are many opinions, but the general meaning will probably become clear. Pumps Groundfos circulation you will find a response from the link.

Advantages	Disadvantages
Excellent thermal insulation	Not environmentally friendly

Utilizing polystyrene technology for facade insulation can significantly improve your home’s comfort and energy efficiency. You can effectively create a barrier that helps to regulate indoor temperatures and keep your home cool in the summer and warm in the winter by adding a layer of polystyrene insulation.

The lightweight nature of polystyrene insulation makes it easy to handle and install, which is one of its main advantages. This can help you save money on materials and installation costs by greatly reducing the time and labor needed for the insulation process.

Polystyrene insulation is also incredibly resilient and moisture-resistant, which makes it perfect for shielding your house from the elements. Polystyrene exhibits superior durability and long-term performance in comparison to conventional insulation materials due to its resistance to rot and decay.

Polystyrene insulation also has the benefit of being versatile. It works well with a variety of building designs and architectural styles because it can be applied to concrete, brick, and wood facades.

Polystyrene technology insulation for your home’s facade not only increases comfort and energy efficiency, but it also improves appearance. You can get the benefits of better insulation and personalize the appearance of your exterior with a range of finishes available.

In conclusion, adding polystyrene insulation to the exterior of your house is a wise choice that will pay off in the long run by reducing energy costs and improving comfort and durability. By utilizing this technology, you can raise the overall value and appeal of your property while designing a more sustainable and effective living space.

Video on the topic

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Do not allow this error when warming the facade do not ruin the insulation

SFTK wet facade, complete technology of insulation and alignment of facades with polystyrene PPS16F