How to choose interventive insulation for timber and logs?

Insulation is essential for maintaining a warm and comfortable home. It is even more crucial to select the appropriate insulation if your home is made of wood or logs. It not only aids in preserving cozy interior temperatures but, over time, also helps with energy efficiency and financial savings.

It can be challenging to choose the ideal insulation for logs and wood, though. There are several choices, and each has advantages and disadvantages of its own. When making this choice, a number of factors come into play, including your budget, the type of wood or logs used in your home, and the climate in which you live. It’s critical to carefully consider these factors in order to make sure the insulation you select fits your unique requirements.

When choosing insulation for logs and wood, one of the most important factors to take into account is how well it seals any gaps or fractures in the structure. Variations in temperature and humidity can cause gaps in wood and logs, which can impair the effectiveness of insulation. Therefore, it is essential to maintain thermal efficiency to choose an intervention insulation that can effectively fill these gaps.

Compatibility of the insulation with the building materials used in log and timber houses is another important consideration. These buildings differ from conventional brick or concrete homes in a few special ways, so the insulation must be able to coexist peacefully with those features. It should also be possible for the insulation to endure the normal movement of logs and wood without eventually losing its effectiveness.

Additionally, think about how the insulation material you select will affect the environment. Concerned about lowering their carbon footprint, homeowners are becoming more and more interested in eco-friendly and sustainable options. Seek for insulation that provides both thermal performance and environmental advantages and is made of renewable or recycled materials.

Types of intervention heater

First, we separate the content into two categories: artificial and natural.

Remember that wool and x/b are useless for intervening in the insulation of a house or bathroom. They all share the same flaw. guessed? They provide insufficient moisture but absorb well. Additionally, the birds and insects are "respected."

What information is essential to know about insulation density? Incidentally, this parameter is indicated by all manufacturers that are self-respecting. Additionally, he ought to be:

• For houses from glued beams: in the range from 300 to 400 g/m. sq., With a thickness of 4-6 mm.
• For a galindowed log: – from 450 to 550 g/m. sq., with a thickness of 8-12 mm;
• For a profiled timber: – from 250 to 350 g/m. sq., with a thickness of 2-3 mm;

The seal should be thicker if the surface of the wood is uneven.

What natural materials work best for building wooden homes or bathrooms, then? This is Pacli, made of long-fiber moss rather than woven felt, from flax, jute, or hemp. Now let’s talk in more detail about these elements:

Let"s start with forest moss

• It absorbs water well and quickly dries after the rain;
• Insects do not revere it;
• And also, it practically does not rot from moisture.

• It dries in the heat, turning into dust;
• In a fire, it lights up before a tree;
• It is difficult to perform uniform styling.

Not all moss is beneficial.Typically, red and sphagnum Ikukushkin Lenon types are employed.

It’s important to leave the fringe (as shown in the picture) when laying moss because it will be stuffed into the opening using a specialized tool by an expert, like you. Additionally, the moss needs to be sprayed where it needs to be knocked out and where it needs to be cut a year later (after the log house experiences shrinkage).

Tow

• Quickly absorbs and quickly dries;
• Does not cause allergies and is not static;
• You can make harnesses of different lengths and shapes;
• Low in comparison with others, cost.

• Difficulty in uniform styling;
• It is pulled by birds for nests and rotting;
• A year later (after shrinkage), a log or a timber house is re -disconnected.

This substance is leftover material from some plant species’ initial processing. It contains a small amount of wax, cellulose, lignin, and pectin.

Intervented insulation for a profiled timber

Homes built with profiled beams do not require the hemp of Pacley intervention sutures; instead, a layer of material that repeats the groove’s shape and serves as insulation is used. This layer also serves as a seal. Under any timber profile, manufacturers create intervention insulation; the material’s thickness and width are determined by the beam’s size and profile shape. They buy a set of intervention insulation right away when they buy a trade union to build a house. Industrial conditions are used to lay the insulation in the profile of the workpieces from the house complex composition.

Natural felt made of jute, sheep’s wool, or Len-Jute is used as a heater for a profiled beam. After a log house is built or a house kit is assembled, the seams of the linen packs are selectively "finished" to remove any imperfections.

Necessity

The weakest part of the log house’s structure is where the logs join together. First of all, this is where the wall is the thinnest, and secondly, there is an opening here that allows wind and moisture to enter. To safeguard this "depressed" area of the wooden house, use log weight insulation.

Such material simultaneously fulfills multiple vital functions:

• Reliably isolates an inaccessible space between the crowns of the house from water and moisture, which, over time, can seriously damage the house;
• Does not allow blowing into the cracks between the logs;
• Compensates for changes in the volume of wood, which occurs in connection with the seasonality and difference in temperature and humidity.

The so-called bulbous hemp is insulated in the beam both during and after construction.

In summary, an intervention seal functions as a heat insulator in addition to: additionally

• Performs waterproofing functions;
• Increases the life of the construction.

You should take great care when selecting such content.

Modern natural materials

June canvas

• Simple styling. Rolled through a timber or log;
• Uniformity. A strip of homogeneous appearance;
• Do not puff from under the crowns;
• Durability of consumer properties;
• Hygroscopicity;
• Impeccable environmental friendliness. There are no harmful additives;
• Economy. Double hemp is not necessary.

Perhaps one of the best products in terms of "price-quality" ratio is made of jute.

Available in multiple sizes. The width and thickness range from 2 to 100 cm and 700 g/m², respectively. can be quickly and easily rolled straight into the groove and secured with a stapler at each step. The jute canvas is compressed after it is laid, making it wind- and moisture-resistant. fantastic for wood. The seam appears symmetrical, and its golden color harmoniously complements the wood’s color.

"The jute canvas works well for baths because the moisture is well-removed from its fibers."

New generation insulation

The modern heater is made of sturdy, high-quality materials that possess all the benefits of fibers, but it lacks the drawbacks of flax, jute, wool, etc. The only negative aspects of these materials are their relatively high cost and the fact that they haven’t held up over time.

Thermjut and thermal

Fusible bio-components are added to jute or linen fibers to create materials known as thermojut and thermal. They melt when exposed to heat, securely binding natural fibers together. Because of this, they compress and hold their shape well, retain heat well, don’t retain moisture, and prevent the growth of harmful microbes. After the building has fully shrunk, more insulation (hemp) on the walls is not needed for the installation of thermojut and thermal.

Thermal-intervention insulation made of linen

Density: 20 kg/m3. Thermal

Hollofiber

Hollofiber is a contemporary polyester material with a bouncy texture. It is well "adjusted" to wood, which fluctuates in volume and shape like any other natural building material. This is particularly true when building a home out of non-core wood without grooves; the logs in this situation adjust to one another loosely and can still have gaps in them even after multiple layers of insulation and hemp treatments. Because Hollofiber fits logs tightly, there is no longer a need for repeated hemp. Furthermore, this type of heater does not retain moisture and is not vulnerable to adverse elements.

Non-woven fabric Hollofiber

"Old" methods of insulation

Both longer-used and simpler options are available for use. Use moss, for instance, as insulation. Although there are numerous species of this plant in the wild, only two are ideal for using as insulation in wooden homes:

• sphagnum – has a large amount of antiseptic substances. This feature allows you to reliably protect your house from the harmful effects of the environment;
• Kukushkin Len, has a smaller antiseptic effect. This moss does not fit completely dried, so its thermal insulation properties will be better.

This kind of insulation will contribute to the best possible home microclimate. The scent of the forest that produces the material is what creates this. There will always be a nice atmosphere in your home.

You can utilize regular moss, such as sphagnum, as an interventor insulation.

By itself, moss is harmless to the environment and does not trigger allergies. However, gathering it by yourself is really challenging. Swamps and other damp areas are home to moss growth. Every variety also has different technological requirements for gathering and getting ready for use. These days, this technique of insulating the intervention space is rarely employed because it is quite challenging to prepare in the necessary quantities.

An easy pakal would be a good choice for your house. This material can be made from hemp or flax, among other raw materials. However, one "bad" aspect of such a heater is that it has a strong affinity for birds. Because the fibers are easily separated from the bulk of the material, seams need to be repaired every year. Furthermore, Pacli decomposes easily and is a good moisture-absorbing material.

Step -by -step instructions for laying insulation

For instance, we’ll tackle the trickiest option at home, which is manual assembly from naturally humid wood. There are no stylistic technological distinctions between natural and synthetic materials when it comes to warming; everything is done with rolled heaters.

Select the insulation with the appropriate width.

Step 1: Purchase the insulation; first, determine the size and calculate the necessary amount. You need to know the external wall dimensions and the number of rows in a log house in order to calculate the amount of insulation. Add up all the linear meters and add roughly 5–8% to the total. For the corners of the log home to have dependable thermal insulation, excess is required. The insulation’s width should be five to ten centimeters wider than the bars’ seizure width, with a thickness of five millimeters. When the log house is put together, the protruding portion is either heated or bent right away.

What are technology’s benefits and drawbacks?

1. Hearing heater. Performed after a complete shrinkage of the structure. Advantages: better isolation, the risks of the formation of cold bridges are minimized. Disadvantages: the volume of manual work increases, some types of insulation are pulled by birds, in the rainy season, the hanging insulation absorbs a lot of moisture. And this can cause rotting of a bar in the fit.
2. Heater. The wide edges of the material are bent and in this position are fixed with a stapler. Badge is made on a flush with the edges of the sample of logs. Advantages: House assembly accelerates. Disadvantages: During the shrinkage of logs, the insulation can be damaged, to eliminate the problems, the finish hemp is needed by a jute rope.

Professional builders cannot agree on which approach is superior. They all operate in accordance with the standard plan. We’ll think about both approaches to installing insulation.

Step 2: Turn the grooved beam upward.

Vital. Should the jute width not extend to the edges, purchase either narrower or wider insulation and arrange it in two rows that overlap one another. The material’s width ought to be five centimeters on either side of the log.

Use a stapler to secure the jute; there are roughly ten centimeters between each bracket. When turning the masonry into a hut, watch out that the insulation does not collapse or fall off.

Stapler the insulation into place.

Step 3: Speakers leave the edges if you plan to heat them. However, bear in mind the drawbacks of this approach, which were previously discussed. Furthermore, the projecting jute prevents the quality of the house’s assembly from being controlled since it seals off junctions and makes it possible to identify the union of builders during hemp.

The second option is to use a stapler to fix the bend and to bother the protruding insulation right away. Make an effort to bend evenly; once the house is put together, it should be carefully inspected. Crown sealing is substantially improved when the insulation thickness is doubled during disasters.

Attachment of the insulation using edge bending

Step 4: Cut off the ends of the log that are about 5 cm long and sticking out into the street. If they hang, moisture seeps into the spaces between the fitting logs, causing the tree to rot. When the house is assembled, the ends will bend independently in favorable, dry weather. It requires some time, which is justified by technology.

The insulation’s projecting ends will be permitted.

Step 5: Insulate the bowl gently. All adjacent surfaces must have juts fixed, and it is preferable to apply two layers of insulator in these areas to improve quality. There’s no need to worry about the crowns drooping because the intervention insulation compresses easily. Never forget that the corners of a wooden house are thought to be the most problematic; give them careful attention.

If the insulation sagged or separated during assembly, don’t be lazy; take out the log and start over from the beginning.

How to heated interventor insulation

You will need a hammer, a 20 mm wide chisel, a 40 mm wide shoulder blade, and a wooden or rubber mallet in order to perform the hemp. If the tools are too sharp, the insulation may get cut out.

Tools from Konopatka

Tools from Konopatka

Important. The hemp is allowed to do only after the insulation tape is completely dried. The log house must settled down and give a shrinkage, this requires about a year after the end of the building is completed. Bend the sealant from top to bottom and with light tapping drive it into the gap between the bars. As a result, a flat dense bend should be obtained, all the cracks are hermetically tight. If the groove of the logs did not completely sit in its place, then it is not necessary to hempatize very much. The final seal is made after shrinkage, at the first stage, the juts only slightly touched and fixed in the gap. The clog is performed later.

Beginning with the bottom row, the hemp should be worked in a circle around the log house in the future. Once the hemp has been worked all the way around one crown, you can move on to the second.

The commencement of the hemp project

The gap is clogged by the insulation.

Around the perimeter, work is done, beginning with the lower crowns.

Vital. Never focus on just one wall at once. Such activities may result in a structural skew as a whole.

It is not necessary to score a stronger in the upper rows, they sit last after a few years of operation of the building. Carefully finish the corners, do not allow water to enter between neighboring crowns. If the house was collected by negligent builders, then the insulation of the bowl problem. They laid the tape only in the middle of the bowl, there is no ledge at the edges. We have already mentioned that in the bowls the insulation must be put in two layers. If the ends of the building are insulated with a violation of the optimal technology, then before the hemp, you will have to first push the tape into the unfilled space, and then hench. The quality of insulation will suffer a little, but this is the only way to correct deviations from technology when assembling a wooden building.

An alternative hemp variation involves the ends of the insulation getting jammed into the spaces between the bars all the way across the row.

The insulation’s free ends are injected.

Heat is trapped in the opening.

As it happens, a perfectly tidy row

Using a jute rope, the seams on the facade walls can be knocked out to improve their appearance. The rope is nailed with cloves, and work can only be completed after walls have been painted. You can alter the rope’s natural knot or coat it in colorless varnish to enhance the design.

Judkey rope for log cabin and wood decoration

Lnovatin

Different names for it may apply depending on the manufacturing technology. alludes to the glassy canvas (created by sewing together threads).

• Good hygroscopicity;
• Easily laid;
• Prevents the life of the fungus;
• Good sound insulator;
• Environmental friendliness;
• Economy;
• Repeated hemp is practically not required.

• Moth "chika".

With caution! Take note of the product’s structure before purchasing. Observe the extremely short fibers, the trimming of threads and twine, and the other colors scattered throughout the material to determine the presence of secondary processing products. For instance, a used rags, dedication, etc. It’s not very good. A heater like that will be brittle. Furthermore, the circumstances in which the processed products were used are unknown.

Intervented insulation – which materials cannot be used

Mineral wool, foamy polyurethane foam is commonly used for the insulation of wooden houses, including their internal and external walls, ceilings, and roofs. But are these materials appropriate for insulation used in interventions? Experts give negative answers to this query.

This is explained in a very straightforward way. Such thermal insulation materials become non-functional under the weight of the Bars. This is particularly true for moisture resistance and heat preservation. Thus, cold air from the street can be easily passed through the room by densely compressed mineral wool or foam rubber.

Special heaters are used to fill the spaces between a wooden house’s crowns. They fall into two primary categories: synthetic and natural. Everybody has their own benefits, drawbacks, and characteristics. If you are building a house or a bathroom yourself, you should be aware of them.

Recommendations for choosing a seal for crowns

For wooden structures, specific standards are placed on the sealing material, specifically:

• Environmental friendliness. That is, the material should be safe for nature;
• Elasticity and density. The task of the material is to tightly close the interventional cracks so that they do not appear after a while, that is, after the shrinkage of the structure;
• durability. The ideal option for the insulation material to serve the entire period;
• low thermal conductivity. This indicator should be close to the thermal conductivity of the beam. Thanks to this, heat loss from the house will be minimal;
• Antibacterial properties. The seal should be resistant to the formation of microorganisms that cause illness or decay;
• external impact. First of all, this means resistance to atmospheric effects (precipitation, temperature changes). Secondly, the insulation should not attract birds dragging the hemp on the nests and bugs that love to settle in wooden walls;
• the ability to absorb/give moisture, similarly to wood. This is necessary to maintain optimal humidity in the home.

The top wood intervention sealants are produced by:

• Juple felt ribbon;
• linen, jute pack or from hemp;
• Long -fiber moss.

All of the materials on the list are ideal for sealing. Despite their differences, they are all similar in that they each have unique qualities that can be both positive and negative.

Wall parameters for choosing a thermal insulator

They consider the qualities of the wood itself, from which the house is constructed, before selecting a heater. The requirement for a thermal insulator varies based on the thermal conductivity of the material in question.

Table 1: Wood’s thermal conductivity

Type of material	Thermal conductivity, W/m*K
Poplar	0.017
Pine	0.015
Oak	0.020
Spruce	0.011
Cedar	0.009
Maple	0.019
Larch	0.013
Fir	0.015

The walls of a typical barbar house are 10 to 15 cm (100 to 150 mm) thick. This indicates that the pine wall does not reach the necessary thickness of 25–30 cm at a thermal conductivity of 0.015 W/m*C. In this instance, the thermal resistance will be roughly 3 m2*c0/WT.

Oak and poplar beams are known for their capacity to hold heat even below.

If insulation installation is not planned, the standard calls for a wall that is 500 mm thick.

Furthermore, since the wood freezes more along its fibers, cold air will enter a timber house through its ends. We use the thermal insulation system to keep this from happening.

Apart from the characteristics of wood, you also need to ascertain the house’s wall thickness and interior design:

1. plaster;
2. drywall;
3. Logs.

The thermal insulator’s size and thermotechnical ability are determined by these parameters.

A windproof membrane is needed to seal the exterior in addition to the primary isolation since it will stop precipitation from seeping through the material and stop wood from rotting. Typically, its computed thickness is at least 0.4 mm.

Should the plan be to set up an externally ventilated facade for the house, you will require specifications like the air gap’s thickness and the frame racks’ dimensions for the insulation installation.

All of this needs to be supplied during the planning and material acquisition stages.

It will also be necessary to determine the necessary thickness for internal insulation:

• interior decoration;
• vapor barrier membrane;
• air groove.

Wood is a breathing material that continuously absorbs water and passes vapors. You must shield the tree from moisture coming from the inside of the house in order to prevent the thermos effect.

Advantages and disadvantages

Like any building method, intervention insulation has advantages and disadvantages. Among the drawbacks are:

• Violation of the structure of wood. The use of synthetic insulation leads to a violation of the structure of wood fibers. This can ruin the environmental friendliness of the structure, influence the ability of a tree to breathe. This means that synthetic materials worsen the breathability of the enclosing structure, which leads to staging air indoors.
• On the other hand, natural heaters can lead to the formation of rot and mold. Natural fibers contribute to the accumulation of moisture and swelling of logs. Ultimately, this leads to damage to the enclosing structure.
• Any insulation is at risk of pests in it. To one degree or another, this problem occurs in both synthetic and in natural materials. Most of the pests adapted absolutely any building material for their dwellings. Ants are able to warm up the moves even in brick and concrete, what can we say about a soft and supple heater.

The main used heat -insulators: pros and cons of

The word "hemp" comes from the hemp plant, which hundreds of years ago was used to make twine for caulking cracks. These plants are still used to make products in separate non-woven painting factories. However, the most common seals in Russian wooden architecture, the moss sphagnum and Kukushkin Len, are now considered exotic. We will confine our discussion to the inventory found in construction supermarkets and specialty shops.

Linen

Using needle-puncturing technology, flax fibers are used to create this interventional insulation. Assume that any strip width in steps of 0.5 cm, ranging from 3 to 40 cm, is ordered. 8 to 10 mm is the thickness at a density of 700 g/m².

One of the best options for residual elasticity, heat conservation, environmental friendliness, and aesthetic qualities is lnovatin, also known as a thermal insulator. Furthermore, the flax fiber tape is currently the least expensive method of highlighting the chopped bathhouse qualitatively. Working with rolonnoy flax is convenient. The strip is inserted into the crown’s groove and secured with brackets. After that, the log can be mounted. Installing wind is not a problem.

One of flax’s drawbacks is that it doesn’t have the best bio resistance. In order to construct nests, birds are content to melt it from the crevices. A few insects.

Jute rolled insulation and jute-linated materials

Triple intervening seal

The rough, homogeneous, non-woven canvas used as the jute heat insulator is created with the same technology as the linen seal. In addition to having good heat-protective and hydrophobic qualities, jute interventive insulation is strong and relatively strict, and it is unique in that it contains 20% lignin. Lignin is a resin with characteristics similar to those of wood conifers. Juts exhibit both positive and negative traits because of their existence.

The insulation made of jute has strong antiseptic qualities. The smell of lignin scares away insects, but birds are unaffected by him. Jute is inferior to linen equivalents only in terms of residual elasticity. At high pressure, this material creams and forms layers that resemble natural wood in density.

Ten to twenty centimeter wide stripes are used to create a jute roller canvas. Its thickness is between 4 and 6 mm, its density is 700 g/m², and its price is roughly equal to that of the flax canvas.

Manufacturers of non-woven paints started to create composite materials in an effort to offset the drawbacks of using two different plant fiber varieties. It is believed that the jute element gives them durability, an antiseptic effect, biological resistance, and the elasticity of linen.

Rolled insulation of artificial fibers

Insulation for synthetic interventions

Many types of interventional non-woven taps based on synthetic materials, such as polyester, synthetic winterizer, and other fibers, have been developed and promoted by the Scandinavians. Experts claim that these materials can replace well-dried raw materials used in the wooden construction industry, such as jute heaters and natural linen. As an illustration, consider the glued beam produced in Sweden and Norway.

The natural (medium) humidity tree responds quite erratically to contact with synthetic materials, forming non-ewgusting internal condensate films and developing mold.

Ropes and ropes from natural fibers

With a rope, the sealing wall appears sophisticated.

Jute and linen ropes for joint seals have all the benefits and drawbacks of these materials combined. Jute seals should be preferred when they come from the side of the road. Sometimes light gray is a better choice than brownish-gray jute for an interior or outdoor ensemble, so linen cords are used for aesthetic purposes.

Woolen felt

Sheep wool is processed differently to create voilok, which is then used to make thermal insulator plates for wooden buildings. Processed wool outperforms plant-origin intervention heaters in nearly every parameter. aside from a single indicator, prices. An exceptional woolen felt comes with an extremely high price tag. Because of this, the material is essentially never used to build baths.

Sealing pastes

Under the general hyperbrand "Warm Seine," numerous varieties of acrylic, silicone, latex, and rubber compositions are produced. Depending on the sample area, some of these sealants are intended for thermal insulation of crowns. Others are made with the purpose of sealing seams. And they’re all distinguished by a stronger adherence to wood.

Sealants are not appropriate for chopped baths due to their zero vapor permeability. However, log cabins are used quite successfully for residential purposes.

Review of the most popular materials

Rather than reviewing manufacturers, we will familiarize ourselves with the most common types of insulation.

Table: Common heater for intervention.

Name, image, median pricing breakdown

Plumbing flax	190 rub. for 1 kg	This is a product obtained by special flax processing, it is used not only for plumbing work, but also when warming houses. It is not cheap, and therefore is used not so often.
Lnovatin	From 90 to 155 rubles.	Universal material 2 cm thick and 10 cm wide to 20 cm wide. Its density reaches 400 g/m kV.
Smolly paclia	100 rubles. for 1 kg	The fiber, which is previously cleaned and combed, is impregnated with an oil product (the share of the latter in the end reaches 40%, and therefore it will definitely not rot such material). Has a high shrinkage, and therefore additional work should be carried out during insulation.
Juvatin	From 115 to 360 rubles.	A heater 2 cm thick, which has high density, is optimal for the northern regions of the Russian Federation.
Juple pacle bale	160 rub. For a 10-kilogram bale	Consists of a jute fiber, combined and fluffed. Has good antiseptic properties, universal.
Linen tape from pacli	90 rub. For 5-kilogram packaging	Linen fiber, combed in advance and cleansed of impurities of a plant nature, is longitudinally polarized. Implemented in rolls with different lengths.
Flax paclio	75 rub. For a 10-kilogram bale	Often used insulation, which can be laid on an independent thickness. You need some dexterity for laying.
Juetaya tape	160 rub. For 5-kilogram packaging	In production, raw materials are previously cleaned of impurities and combed. Such a heater does not rot, has good heat saving and is resistant to microflora.

Choosing the right insulation for timber and log homes is crucial for maintaining comfort and energy efficiency. The type of insulation you select should not only provide effective thermal resistance but also accommodate the unique characteristics of wood construction, such as moisture absorption and settling. Consider factors like R-value, vapor permeability, and installation method to ensure the insulation meets your home"s specific needs. Additionally, prioritize materials that are eco-friendly and non-toxic to preserve indoor air quality and minimize environmental impact. By taking these considerations into account, you can enhance the energy performance and longevity of your timber or log home while creating a comfortable living environment for years to come.

Unsuitable materials for insulation

Option #1 – Mineral wool

Additionally, regular mineral wool has almost no moisture absorption in its threads, making it completely useless as a heat insulator for bars. Because of the fibers’ tension, all of the moisture in this material rests there and does not evaporate. Furthermore, when a bathhouse is trampled, this material loses heat and even produces a dew point. However, occasionally they are able to employ dishonest builders.

Option #2 – Izover

As for the isover, who has recently become incredibly popular, then in those places between the crowns where there is no gap, it is compressed by almost all 100%, and here its heat transfer is slightly less than that of the other material in the same conditions. But in the places of gaps, Izover is a little fluffy and quite normally copes with its functions of the heat insulator. On the other hand, the ability to accept and remove moisture from the isover is almost the same as that of many other intervention heater, but this material does not burn, does not rot, it does not need to be heated and it does not crumble over time, like a cork. Unpleasant dusting can be eliminated with sealed trim.

So let"s summarize. This is what the isover prefer many as an intervention insulation:

• Does not burn, does not rot;
• Convenient in work;
• It is well squeezed and does not leave the cracks;
• Do not like the birds;
• Does not need additional hemp.

But this fashionable material has a significant drawback: it is not too environmentally friendly, and with a slight rupture, he emits steam and allergic dust. And it also accumulates moisture quickly … And many lazy builders convince future owners of baths to use this particular intervention insulation-after all, it is so much easier for them to work: it is easily cut, just rolling around the log, the construction goes quickly and costs less. That is why, despite the advertising from neighbors, not many want to put the isover in the walls of the Bathwood – especially those who saw it in the process of use: even with a dry beam, the insulation was 2/3 with wet.

Additionally, synthetic materials are frequently a hazardous source of phenol. In summary, mineral wool that has been compressed does not eliminate moisture in any way. Furthermore, if it is not sealed with a vapor barrier, it completely transforms into a sponge. You get to make the choice.

Polyurethane foam

Utilized as polyurethane foam and interventive insulation. We value her for the following qualities:

• Fast technological installation.
• Good adhesion, thanks to which the beam is glued tightly. When drying, it will not twist, and the steam room will not twist.
• The corners in the log house are sealing much better than moss or pack.
• The hardened one -component foam is not fiery and does not emit toxins than, however, a multicomponent cannot boast.
• The hemp process after foam is quite simple.

Despite all of its benefits, foam insulation does not satisfy the following criteria when used as an intervention:

• It is not elastic, because of which microcracks may arise over time (and a tree, like any living material, can slightly change their volumes).
• In winter it does not tolerate cold – crumbles.
• Srusty to the effects of ultraviolet better. Over time, from the sun stages and is painted.
• Not environmentally friendly.

Furthermore, we point out that because polyurethane foam is still comparatively uncommon as an interventive insulation, many additional detrimental effects of this type of insulation are still unknown. However, in this substitute, the foam itself is still utilized as an intervention insulation:

• Option No. 1. The beam is placed after half a meter, and after the end of the construction of Penut. So he supposedly dries faster, and then the remaining wide gap can be discouraged. Quickly, hermetic and there is no need for hemp. From the inside of the bath, the gaps are heated with a linen rope.
• Option No. 2. Before the foam is used, they let the bath completely sit on the bag. After all, the sediment of the building occurs due to the academic of the beam itself-and this is at least a year and a half. After that, a 5 centimeter gap is pierced in Pacley and PAZ PAZ, and finally, protecting the seam at the seams.

As for the choice of a foam brand, so far the most suitable for this purpose is Macroflex. In a word, there are many materials, and, as they say, how many people are so many opinions. There are also such owners of baths who erected their paired and are quite satisfied with the isover as a sealing one ten years ago. They argue that the beam after rains will be wet at the site of the insulation, regardless of the type of the latter: it is moss, or modern material. And the main advantages are a decisive factor: it is the cheapness and ease of building styling. It is only important not to take the cheapest zero (it is also called Chinese) – you can really be poisoned.

Synthetic intervention heater

Hollofiber

Material made of polyester fibers that is not woven. The most basic use is as a bedding and outerwear heater. a range of synthetic winterizer that we are aware of.

There are two types that are produced: hard layers and canvases, which differ in density and stiffness. Each case’s decision is based on the characteristics of the wood.

The quality of elasticity, or volume recovery, is especially valuable. A non-core beam, for instance, has no grooves and twists after seasoning. Оогда традиционный уплотнитель используется, то образуются щели, которые инопатить надо. Furthermore, the pressure of the beam presses and lays natural heaters. Hollofiber fills cavities effectively because of its elastic regeneration.

• Excellent hygroscopicity and elasticity;
• Insects do not live in it and it is not used by birds;
• Not allergen;
• Excellent indicators of heat and sound insulation;
• Durable;
• Not a fuel;
• Does not require repeated hemp.

• Non -natural origin;
• The ability to bake raw wood.

The material is currently made at the Moscow thermopol plant in Russia.

Polyterm

Polyterm is available for purchase as a tape with a width ranging from 30 to 250 mm, a thickness of 8 to 20 mm, and a 90% restoration rate following compression. It is a golden-beige hue. We won’t list them because they are all comparable to Hollofiber in terms of parameters and features.

To provide a simplified understanding, I’ll provide a table of comparison. Here, a number of the standard jute and polyterm intervention tape parameters are compared.

Name	Jute (tape)	Polyterm (tape)
Do you need a repeated hemp after shrinkage of the house?	Yes	No
Recovery after full compression, %	20 %	90 %
Absorption with 100% air humidity	Up to 25%	0%
Exposure to gradual decay	Yes	No
Hygroscopicity (vapor permeability)	weak	High
Operational resource (years)	10 years	50 years
Re -use	Yes	No

But there is one thing to keep in mind: Polyterm is a relatively new material, and we don’t know how long its history of use has been going (at least over ten years). As a result, in a few years, an impartial evaluation of its capabilities can be completed. Politerm suppliers are free to speak as they please in the interim!

Now, for my own reviews. After working with comparable materials for more than a year, I can state with certainty that this is better and more useful than the "jute wheel" that you won’t find. verified in real life! My friends who are builders can attest to the same thing. Perhaps we simply prefer not to be able to identify synthetics?

Old -timers

Since the wooden structure in Rus is not at all remarkable, there are materials that were used for our purpose in antiquity. Which intervention insulation is better? Let’s find out.

Moss

Just two of the several hundred different types of moss are utilized in construction. This is Kukushkin flax and moss sphagnum. They are both red and white, the first one being white.

Sphagnum moss exhibits exceptionally high levels of insulation. His color is paler than that of his brother’s. Its composition includes antiseptic ingredients. He owes the latter his application in both medicine and construction.

Sphagnum moss

Although not all areas have access to this northern plant, linen can be manually gathered. Companies that sell moss briquettes for building exist.

You must let the moss dry after gathering it. Rashes, however, go away in a matter of 1-2 weeks. When you buy sphagnum from a construction company, the product is ready for use. But moss that is totally dry is never utilized as insulation. The moss should release a juice that contains antiseptic substances after crushing the upper crown and laying on the beam. This will shield the lower log house from future decay and insects.

Large piles of crowns—the logs that will be sold next—are covered in moss. If you use too little, it might dry up with cracks and even holes in it. Don’t forget to wrap the walls. In this instance, once the beam has dried, you can focus it.

• Buildings insulated by moss have a special aroma. People suffering from asthma feel relief, being in such buildings.
• Moss is hygroscopic – it absorbs moisture and leaves a log dry. Natural, vapor -permeable material does not harm, but on the contrary, creates a microclimate in the house.
• The disadvantage of moss is the complexity of laying when installing a beam, as well as interest from birds. These creatures also prefer to use not synthetic, but natural materials for their nests.

Lnovatin

The material is made of natural linen and is shaped like a tape. Subsequently, the material is processed using a needle machine, enhancing its inherent qualities.

The foundation for producing this material, technical flax, is grown on specific "dry" soils. The flax consists of four primary parts:

In turn, the latter unites common, brittle materials into a single, durable structure. Among the most resilient natural heaters is lnovatin.

Considerations	Insulation Types
1. Material Compatibility	Foam boards, mineral wool, or natural fibers work well with wood.
2. Moisture Management	Choose breathable insulation to prevent moisture buildup.
3. Thickness Options	Select insulation thickness based on climate and energy efficiency goals.
4. Installation Ease	Prefer insulation types that are easy to install without damaging the wood.
5. Fire Safety	Opt for fire-resistant insulation materials for added safety.

Choosing the appropriate insulation for logs and wood is essential to keeping your house cozy and energy-efficient. Making an educated choice requires taking into account a number of variables, including material, installation method, and efficacy.

The kind of insulation material is one of the most important factors. Foam board, mineral wool, fiberglass, and spray foam are typical choices. Every material has pros and cons, including price, R-value, and environmental effect. Selecting the best option for your needs can be made easier if you are aware of these factors.

Furthermore, a big part of insulation’s effectiveness is the way it’s installed. A well-installed insulation maximizes its performance by preventing gaps and air leaks. A successful installation depends on adhering to building codes and manufacturer guidelines, whether you’re doing it yourself or hiring professionals.

The special qualities of wood and logs must be taken into account when choosing insulation for these materials. Although logs and wood naturally insulate, additional insulation can improve thermal performance and energy efficiency even more. It is imperative to select insulation that preserves the structural integrity of wood while enhancing its inherent qualities.

Finally, remember the long-term advantages of making an investment in premium insulation. Certain materials or installation techniques may have higher upfront costs, but over time, energy savings and comfort gains may exceed the cost. You can have a more comfortable and effective home for many years to come if you make an informed choice and put quality first.

Video on the topic

Polyterm Intervented insulation

Intervented insulation

Intervented Jute insulation: compare and draw conclusions

Polyterm – Intervented insulation. Is it worth buying. Polyterm for the home, as holds heat.

Varieties of intervention heater – which is better