Water warm floor in a frame house on piles

Few things compare to the luxury of walking on a warm floor when it comes to keeping your home warm and inviting, particularly in the chilly winter months. It can be particularly difficult for homeowners in frame homes raised on piles to ensure effective heating. But the water warm floor system—a technology that blends contemporary comfort with functionality—holds the key to the answer. This cutting-edge heating technique not only warms your floors but also makes your house warmer and more energy-efficient overall.

There are several benefits to building frame homes on piles, such as stability, longevity, and less of an influence on the environment. But keeping the ideal indoor temperature can occasionally be difficult in these houses, particularly in colder climates. In these kinds of buildings, conventional heating techniques might not always be effective, so homeowners are forced to look for customized alternatives.

For frame homes on piles, a water warm floor system—also referred to as radiant floor heating—presents the perfect answer. Installing a network of pipes or electric heating elements beneath the floor’s surface is required for this system. These pipes carry warm water, which distributes heat throughout the space equally. This arrangement can be especially helpful in a frame house on piles because it makes efficient use of the floor space and reduces the need for additional heating sources.

Consistent and comfortable heating is one of the main benefits of a water warm floor system in a frame house on piles. In contrast to conventional forced-air heating systems, radiant floor heating provides warmth from the floor up and frequently causes uneven temperatures and drafts. This keeps your floors delightfully warm while also assisting in preserving a steady and cozy interior temperature across your whole living area.

Moreover, water warm floor systems have a lot to offer in terms of energy efficiency, which can eventually result in cost savings. These systems minimize heat loss and lessen the need for frequent heating adjustments by heating the house from the floor up. This makes it a more cost-effective and environmentally friendly option for homeowners because it uses less energy and pays less in utility bills.

Advantages Disadvantages
Even heat distribution throughout the house Initial installation cost
Energy efficiency, lower heating bills over time Requires professional installation
No visible radiators, maximizing space Potential for leaks if not installed properly
  1. How to make a quality foundation for a frame house – step -by -step scheme
  2. Step 1: Speech alignment on the construction site
  3. Step 2: Patch marking
  4. Step 3: Creation of supporting pillars
  5. Step 4: Rostier Construction
  6. Advantages and disadvantages of warm floors in frame houses
  7. Type of warm floor
  8. Electric warm floor
  9. Water warm floor
  10. Black floor device in a frame house
  11. Laying is the roofing
  12. Supports and Paul beams
  13. Binding and lags
  14. Floor insulation
  15. Installation of insulation and flooring
  16. How to make a floor flooring
  17. Warm floor in a frame house
  18. Options for saving on ceilings and floors
  19. Saving on the floors using old interior doors
  20. 9 best construction and furniture stores!
  21. Floor insulation
  22. Insulation of mineral wool
  23. Warming with polystyrene
  24. Ceramzitis and sawdust insulation
  25. Creating a draft floor
  26. What is noteworthy heating of frame houses using a warm floor system
  27. Installation of the circuit on wooden boards
  28. Adviсe
  29. Features of the construction of the building on piles
  30. Peculiarities
  31. Carrying structures of the floor of the frame house on piles
  32. Warm floor in a frame house
  33. Black screed
  34. Final coating
  35. The choice of material
  36. Installation
  37. Conclusion
  38. Calculation of the load from the screed in the frame house in wooden lags
  39. Setting beacons for screed
  40. Stage installation of warm water floors
  41. Characteristic
  42. Floor arrangement
  43. Thermal insulation of the floor of the first floor
  44. Laying of the flooring
  45. Warm floor of the frame house
  46. Polystyrene screed technology
  47. How to make a floor with your own hands step -by -step instructions
  48. Preparation for the creation of sex in a frame house
  49. Laying is the roofing
  50. Supports and Paul beams
  51. Binding and lags
  52. Floor insulation
  53. Kinds
  54. Monolithic floor
  55. Frame floor
  56. Video on the topic
  57. KD.I: The best, inexpensive and reliable water warm floor on piles.
  58. Warm water floor in a frame house on piles. #Teplypol #heating #frame
  59. Warm floor in a frame house
  60. No. 85 Warm floor without screed. Foil system and autonomous heater.

How to make a quality foundation for a frame house – step -by -step scheme

Step 1: Speech alignment on the construction site

You must measure the site’s changes in order to accomplish this. The level is a unique construction tool that can help. If it’s not there, you can attempt to use the laser level. A minimum of 10–20 cm of the top soil layer needs to be combed. You can use a regular shovel for this. You have to execute a strong rally at the very end.

It is preferable to use a specialized tamping machine for this purpose. If there isn’t a method like that, you can tamp manually using a homemade tool. You will need a cut round log with a handle nailed to one side and a board that is 5 cm thick on the other in order to accomplish this.

Step 2: Patch marking

Marking the structure’s perimeter is the first step in any construction. The future structure’s corner pegs will need to be scored. Next, extend the rope to the subsequent peg by means of a laser level. Every one of the house’s load-bearing walls needs to be marked.

Step 3: Creation of supporting pillars

They must be positioned at the intersections of the load-bearing walls and at their corners. It is advised to perform a calculation to guarantee that the pillars are 2.5 meters apart from one another. It is necessary to drill wells or dig pits in order to create this kind of support. The depth must be reached below the earth’s freezing point. This is typically one to 1.5 meters. A ledge that is 300–500 mm above the ground must be created.

A "pie" of sand and gravel must be made at the bottom of a drilled well. This will result in the creation of a cushion for the foundation. It is advised that the layer be between 200 and 300 mm thick. The "pie" that is covered shouldn’t make the pillars’ calculated pole smaller. As a result, when determining the pit’s depth, this pillow must be taken into consideration. It is preferable to form the formwork before pouring concrete if the soil is loose and the pit walls are crumbling.

In order to place boards for the formwork inside, you must increase the width. By the time the work is finished, a supporting pillar frame has been formed. Concrete must be added in phases; fill with a solution ranging from 30 to 50 cm. Following that, a ram must be carried out. Either a standard metal pin or a specialized vibrator must be used for this.

Step 4: Rostier Construction

It will be required to build a horizontal reinforced concrete belt on the pillars if it is decided to increase the longitudinal rigidity of the foundation and the stability of the structure. The reinforcement must extend approximately 300 mm above the pillars in order to accomplish this. This will enable the execution of rods that are vertical and horizontal within themselves. after finishing inside the gathered formwork. For the frozen solution to get stronger, let it stand for two to three weeks.

Since the floor can be built directly on top of the reference poles, this step is extra in the foundation-building process. In turn, the grillage may raise the frame house’s support’s bearing capacity.

Advantages and disadvantages of warm floors in frame houses

Many owners are aware of the benefits of building frame houses, including their low cost of construction, quick project completion, and ability to use contemporary, environmentally friendly materials. In the meantime, the owner will receive extra benefits from using the warm floor type in the house, which is a frame type. This includes efficient use of energy resources, superior maintainability, the ability to control warm floors with automation and easily comprehensible programmers, and the creation of a cozy microclimate within the home.

Apart from its benefits, the warm floor technology has several drawbacks that must also be taken into consideration. These include:

  1. high cost of components;
  2. the need to carry out complex hydraulic calculations before installation;
  3. Limited in the choice of screeds and floor materials that would satisfy the requirements of the project of the frame house.

The technology’s drawbacks do not outweigh its benefits, and if the owner of the frame home understands how to achieve the best thermal conductivity by laying on a warm water floor and is conversant with the features that control the system, he will be able to supply his home with a reliable and efficient source of heat.

Type of warm floor

The right warm floor system device will reduce heating expenses and improve comfort levels throughout the house. Given that the lower portion of the room is heated, this is possibly the best choice for the heating device.

Once you’ve decided to create a heated floor, decide whether to use electric or water.

Electric warm floor

Differs in that it’s easy to connect and install. The high cost of electricity, which raises the expense of heating the space, is a major disadvantage.

Beneath the floor, free of furniture, is an electric heated floor installed. It is ineffective to install beneath the bed, cabinets, or sofa because the cable can burn out from overheating. The system’s power is computed with the assumption that each square meter of area uses 0.1 kW of energy. Standard-sized rooms (14–16 kV m) might require 1.5 kW of electricity to heat.

Warm floor caused by an electric cable

There are two primary categories of warm floor electrical systems that are identified:

The two main heating principles are convection and infrared.

In the screed, this kind of system is installed. Nearly every kind of flooring is applied on top. It could be laminate, linoleum, or ceramic tiles. A cork or natural parquet floor is regarded as an undesired coating. In addition to the fact that cork does not transfer heat well, these materials might dry out.

The electromagnetic radiation of a cable floor should be considered when selecting one. It is advised to use two-core wire in residential settings since it has less of an adverse effect on human health.

Sceed need not be used when installing a film floor. It is dispersed immediately beneath the flooring. This lowers labor costs and considerably speeds up the installation process.

The quick installation process, immediate heating, and lack of a screed or very thin layer are benefits of the warm floor’s electrical system.

Using a cable to install an electric floor

There are issues. This is a high demand for electricity and a reliance on its steady supply. Installing it in a room with high humidity is not advised.

Water warm floor

Using a water floor is less expensive. The coolant, which is heated by a boiler using gas or solid fuel, provides the heat. When using a boiler on wood or angle, the system’s operation is less reliant on electricity.

Standard water floor installation calls for a 5-7 cm-thick concrete screed to be laid over the surface. This restricted the use of its device in frame homes, where filling the floor or overlapping with cement-sand mortar is improper and technically challenging. As a result, a more inventive system—a light water floor—was developed, which does not require a screed.

It offers several benefits.

  • the lower weight of the structure, which allows the installation of a warm floor in a frame or wooden house
  • the system is ready for operation immediately after installation;
  • less thickness of the floor layer;
  • The possibility of execution by individual order.

Two varieties of light-warm floors exist:

  • wood;
  • Polistyal foam.

A wooden system is less expensive, but it requires more work to install. installed in lags using this. The structure’s minimal thickness places no additional strain on the house’s construction. An additional heater with reflective foil is mounted on wooden overlap for increased efficiency.

Beacon installationtaking place concurrently with the water floor installation

The system of light warm floor with polystyrene foam is used to stop warm air from going down. Its soft layer is fixed with aluminum plates, and a moisture-resistant sheet made of gypsum is placed on top of the structure.

Use large, extra equipment to operate the water floor system, enabling you to turn off the system independently in each room.

Black floor device in a frame house

Laying is the roofing

A waterproofing layer, typically made of roofing material, is placed between the lynes and the foundation’s upper surface. Boards with a 50 mm thickness and the foundation’s width are fastened to pre-installed anchor bolts around the perimeter of the foundation. To this end, larch is the most commonly used wood type. She’s a walking dead end. The boards are still impregnated with an antiseptic, though, and are given plenty of time to dry.

Supports and Paul beams

If the span is longer than three meters, additional supports must be arranged underneath it to prevent the floor boards from bending too much. They are made of brick columns with a single brick for a cross-section and a 40 by 40 cm concrete reinforced base that is 30 to 40 cm below ground.

Pits erupted beneath these pillars, a little deeper than was required for their concrete base. A five-centimeter-thick cushion of sand is used to level, pour, and trim the bottom of the holes. Formwork is installed, and the walls and bottom are covered with polyethylene or a comparable waterproof material. Concrete is then filled and a reinforcing mesh is placed.

Brickmasonry cannot be done before three days have passed, at which point the concrete has dried and gained enough strength to support the weight of the bricks.

Binding and lags

Along the perimeter of the foundation on the lying on the end of the junction, the binding boards are laid in the joint, on the plane of the future floor they are laid out in a step of 40-50 cm of the lag. The position of the boards at the end provides high stiffness and geometric irremovability of the structure. Binding and lags are connected using galvanized corners. It is also permissible to use nails, but such a connection will turn out to be much less reliable. If there are no boards at the disposal of a large enough length to block the entire flight at once, it is permissible to make lags from several fragments. In this case, the joints should be on brick supports.

Additionally, wood that has been impregnated with protective compounds and measured 5 cm thick by 20–25 cm wide is used to construct the lag and strapping.

Floor insulation

The room is continuously cooled by the lower floor’s floor. No matter how efficient the heating systems in your house are, they won’t do anything without enough insulation beneath the floors. Furthermore, condensation will unavoidably form in the space, resulting in mold growth, dampness, fungus development, deterioration of the floor’s wooden structures, etc.

There are many different types of heaters in the construction industry, both synthetic and natural, with differing levels of efficiency. When deciding between them, keep in mind that natural materials with high environmental friendliness will be far less durable and that there’s a good chance rodents will nest inside of them.

Installation of insulation and flooring

Boards are healed from below to the lags so that there is a heater where to lie. If their height is not an option, you can nail the bars to the lag’s side surface and then lay the insulation boards on top of them. The boards can be changed out frequently with a net if hard slab insulations are utilized. The flooring is covered with rolled waterproofing. The insulation is then installed. It is important to keep in mind that the material’s ability to block heat and reduce noise decreases with density.

In order to provide gender ventilation, the insulation should also not extend a few centimeters above the top of the lag. Popular materials for insulation include sawdust, expanded clay, mineral wool, and polystyrene foam.

If mineral wool is selected, extra care should be taken when installing it to shield the face and any exposed skin from the tiny, dispersed material particles.

You can install the flooring boards after the insulation has been laid. The thickness of these boards should increase with decreasing lag spacing. For instance, a 70-centimeter step requires at least 4 cm of flooring; a three-centimeter board can be installed with lag spacing every 40 cm.

The floorboards feature protrusions and grooves, or spikes. The first floorboard has a 3–4 cm indent from the wall where it is spiked. Speaking is required to make up for variations in humidity and temperature that affect the size of the boards.

The strength of the floor structure will be increased if the board transverse joints are on the lags.

How to make a floor flooring

Since the floors in the rooms frequently differ, a 16–20 mm layer of plywood is laid down on the lags, and finishing takes place after the construction is finished.

  1. We mark the plywood sheets so that the joints are on the lag. We smear the lags with liquid nails (eliminates the creak and additionally strengthens), lay plywood sheets, fasten with nails or screws.
  2. Between the sheets we leave 2 mm gap so that with high humidity the floor does not.
  3. In places of communication in the faner, we make cuts with a circular saw, for which we first mark it.
  4. The edges of the plywood are aligned on the binding board, mark with the help of a coated thread and cut.

The assembly of the floor can be followed by the construction of the wall and roof frameworks. Internal partitions are installed before the last layer of flooring is applied.

Warm floor in a frame house

Consideration of all pertinent details must be given during the floor planning phase. That is, you must prepare a heat coating ahead of time if the bathroom floor or the entire floor of the house needs to be heated.

It is essential to research every kind of heating and select the one that you want. Only a few rooms in the entire house can have warm flooring.

It is made up of a network of plastic pipes positioned all over the house or space. In the event that your frame home has a heated floor, take care of operating this system and set up a control center in a safe location.

Options for saving on ceilings and floors

The following methods can be used to reduce costs when producing interstory flooring and ceilings:

  • sexual board, former in operation;
  • door leafs instead of a floorboard.

Most of the time, used flooring performs better than new flooring found in building markets. She is typically more arid, so by using it, you lower the likelihood that it will result in anything. Such a material may cost several times less than a brand-new raw board.

It is located at the intersection of technological structures and historic buildings.

Saving on the floors using old interior doors

Alternatively, door leafs can be used. Old interior doors can be found and used in place of boards. Everything has a parquet board covering on top. Tens of thousands of rubles can be saved by a medium-sized home as a result.

You can save time by using this method because wooden canvases cover more quickly than boards.

When old five-story houses are demolished or old door leafs are purchased for nothing at all during the door production process, they can be found.

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Floor insulation

Insulation is a necessary component of a frame house that helps you create the ideal microclimate in each space. Foam or mineral wool are typically used for cross floor insulation in frame homes.

Insulation of mineral wool

Notably, mineral wool insulation on the floor of the frame home not only insulates the space from outside noise but also muffles sounds that come in from the street.

The material is not impacted over time by fungi and is fire resistant. The sharp fibers of mineral wool deter rats from building their nests on the floor when it is used as a heater. I suggest you watch the video carefully; it tells the story of the frame house’s floor insulation from A to Z.

Since mineral wool adversely affects a person’s skin and respiratory system, it is imperative that those who lay it wear protective clothing. As cotton wool loses its functional properties when wet, it is preferable to use it completely dried.

Warming with polystyrene

From an environmental perspective, the polystyrene foam floor insulation in the frame house poses a risk. There are numerous hazardous impurities in the material. However, it resists moisture and offers effective sound absorption.

There are additional drawbacks to the foam floor insulation in a frame home. If there is a fire or a fever that reaches 120 degrees, the foam will melt and release harmful chemicals. Furthermore, rodents can easily destroy the material.

Ceramzitis and sawdust insulation

Expanded clay is a material that is produced by firing clay shale and consists of light pellets that insulate a room from temperature changes and reduce sound.

It is easy to fill the material over the windproof layer and leve relative to the edge of the lag by warming the floor of the frame house with expanded clay. Does not need to be fitted, has extra fasteners, or have cracks fixed.

Keramzit produces distinct fractions.

A similar principle applies when sawdust is used to warm the floor of the frame house. Remember to apply solutions that repel pests, fire, and rodents to the material.

There are a number of ways to insulate the floor of a frame home; watching videos can give you a better understanding of how to do it yourself.

We looked at particulars in the frame house today. Additionally, certain elements, like the lag’s material selection and insulation layer thickness, will vary from frame house to frame.

Creating a draft floor

Moreover, a black floor must be created once the frame house’s floors’ most fundamental components have been gathered. You can purchase a non-core board, OSP, plywood, etc. for him. D. With it, all the gaps are filled in. If the draft floor is made of OSP, this is where the supporting bars will be useful.

It is crucial to keep in mind that waterproofing and insulation are the main tasks being completed at this time.

Step 1: Any thermal insulation material must be placed between the lags and the jumper. Mineral wool, foam, ecowata, perlite, etc. are some examples. D. It fits so that there is still room for air to circulate around the lag’s edges.

Step 2: It’s crucial to complete all of the primary communications at this point. If not, it will be more challenging to make them more challenging.

At this point, communications are also conducted.

Step 3: After that, you must install a vapor barrier over the insulation. It will keep moisture from the outside of the house from getting to the pie and prevent too much moisture from staying inside. For the best level of protection, separate vapor barrier canvases must be laid on top of one another, with the joints securely fastened and linked.

Step 4: After that, OSP plates with a thickness of three to five centimeters must be placed. Additionally, you can use regular boards. Sheet material components should have a few millimeters (typically 2 mm) between each other. If it isn’t given, the floor may eventually become distorted.

OSP plate installation

Step 5: Following this phase, finishing floors can be decorated.

What is noteworthy heating of frame houses using a warm floor system

The majority of homeowners respond in the affirmative when asked if they think their home needs a heated floor. In fact, when the hydraulic floor heating project is put into action, property owners hope to put the unsightly wall batteries, the uncomfortable chuckle, and the excessively high energy resource accounts behind them. Before placing an order for a warm floor from suppliers, make sure that these expectations are met by becoming familiar with the details of the frame building heating systems that will be discussed in this section.

Because of its slight weight, frame houses are frequently built on foundations made of fewer, simpler columns. This is why it is not a good idea to use a standard concrete or cement-sand screed as this will increase the overall weight of the structure and put more strain on the foundation.

Experts created the technology to install a warm floor for frame buildings using dry polystyrene screed.

The owners will need to focus on the structure’s insulation quality in addition to selecting the appropriate screed version for the water floor because the frame structure varies slightly in the thickness of the walls and ceilings. This phase of the project is particularly crucial since the entire hydraulic heating system will not function if the structure is not adequately insulated.

Installation of the circuit on wooden boards

The heat carrier fits on the boards if the house is raised on stilts. Initially, insulating mats are placed and a waterproofing substance is applied to the base.

Thermal insulation is covered with boards or plate boards are laid. To arrange the thermal circuit, they cut through the grooves. Metal plates are inserted into the wrecks to prevent the wood from deteriorating due to continuous heating. After that, the heating system’s pipe is installed in them.

Performance testing is done on the system after mounting a water circuit. OSP slabs are then used to cover the floor. The finished flooring is covered with a decorative coating.

This installation method, if you follow the advice of experts, enables you to install the system with the least amount of frame weight and to turn on the heating as soon as the work is finished.


The second floor of the frame structure’s floor arrangement must be carried out in accordance with work performance guidelines, which differ slightly from the ground floor’s sex-creation technology.

It should be mentioned that the second floor’s primary goal will be to create excellent soundproofing. Consequently, a soundproof layer needs to be used in the interstory floor in place of the typical insulation. The best raw material for these kinds of projects would be sand, which has the right properties and is also a great heat accumulator. The overlap’s high degree of hardness is significant.

In order to guarantee these characteristics, lags that will increase strength structures should be added to the base in addition to the beams.

The following tasks are necessary for the second floor’s technological flooring:

  • installation of a draft base for inter -story beams;
  • laying waterproofing and vapor barrier;
  • In the gaps between the beams, the installation of insulation and raw materials is carried out, which provides sound insulation. In some cases, expanded clay is used instead of sand;
  • The floor lags are installed on the beams;

  • The distance that is between the lags is thoroughly filled with raw materials for insulation. For such purposes, mineral wool or any other building material with high indicators of non -combustibility is usually used;
  • A waterproofing film is laid on top of the insulation, which will eliminate the formation of moisture leaks to the first floor in case of unforeseen situations, for example, the formation of leaks in the roof;
  • The cake of the board is sewn up, plywood or other material suitable for further work on laying the finish flooring.

Certain builders suggest streamlining the second floor’s construction and employing beams with strengthened structural elements for the interstory ceilings. These goods are regarded as damaged wooden goods. It is not necessary to install the lag when making such a design. After sewing the beams together, a sound-absorbing material is placed in between them and needs to be sealed.

By studying the characteristics of building materials, you can prevent mistakes in the layout of the floor in a frame house. This is because a well-designed combination of raw materials will guarantee a high degree of comfort for this type of home.

Features of the construction of the building on piles

The pile foundation is typically utilized in the following situations:

  • When conducting construction work on problem soils (bulk, weak, heaving, rocky, marshy).
  • If the site is not even, but with height drops. This often happens when the building is built on the slope of the mountain or hill.
  • When there is not enough money for a more expensive monolithic foundation.
  • Squeezing the construction of construction. As a rule, in such cases, a frame or wooden house is being built on a pile-screw foundation.
  • The inability to drain the excessively wet soil on the site.

Screw piles form the foundation of such a structure. We are discussing metal pipes that have a unique tip attached to the end (which may have a different shape). The process of submerging screw piles in soil involves a precise technique: instead of using concentrated blows to clog them, manual or mechanical methods are used to screw them up. Piles with a cone-shaped tip bump into the earth’s thickness during rotation. During work, the soil is compacted to improve fastening reliability.

The pile foundation’s strapping is prepared for additional work.

The tops of the screwed piles are leveled and fitted with heads to ensure even distribution of the load from the building’s weight. On top of the heads, a continuous strapping system known as a grillage unites the supports into a single power structure. Concrete, steel, or wood can be used for grillage. The strapping will eventually serve as the foundation for how the house’s walls and floor are arranged. The waterproofing material (foam, roofing material, or polyethylene) will be sorry before putting the strapping components on the pile heads. This will shield the flooring from too much moisture.


A set of floor arrangement works is also included in the frame of the frame structure. In the future, a well-designed base constructed with premium building materials will help prevent heat loss and escape through the floors, keeping homeowners’ interior temperatures comfortable.

The following types of foundations for buildings can be found in frame houses according to their technological features:

  • The design erected on screw stilts – this option is ideal for soft soil, where construction is planned;
  • concrete pillars, the installation of which should be carried out in more solid soil;
  • tape -type foundation;
  • The design created from a monolithic reinforced concrete slab, the styling of which occurs on a strong pillow of sand.

The first stage of building a similar structure is to select and begin construction of one of the frame house foundation types.

Since such houses are a capital structure that can be fully operated for a long time, experts advise carefully choosing the wood to create the house’s frame, taking into account climatic conditions as well as a number of other important points.

Coniferous wood is typically the material of choice for work involving the installation of sex in frame houses because of its high durability and low cost of raw materials. Aspen or oak lags are associated with more expensive products because of their superior quality attributes.

Purchasing well-dried raw materials is essential for work with the floor’s base because humidity causes products to shrink in size, which causes gaps to appear between the products that are laid down.

Installing the draft and final sex creates the base of the frame house. When utilizing the OSP of the plates fastened to the lower portions of the strapping and the lag, a draft floor may be created. The remaining materials needed to create the floor of the frame house are then applied to the newly created surface. This technology states that a structural base pie is produced.

The following idea guides the layout of the draft floor:

  • On top of the strapping of the foundation of the building, the lag pre -treated with an antiseptic is performed. It is worth choosing raw materials more moisture resistant, for example, larch, since it is least susceptible to the decay process;
  • The cross section of the board is selected based on the distance between the walls. If it is quite large, then it is worth increasing the cross section of the products either to make an additional support of concrete or brick cabinets;

  • The main task is to achieve such a strong ground that wooden logs do not bend from the loads when people move them or under the weight of the installed furniture;
  • The step frequency when laying wood should be determined based on the dimensions of the laid OSP plates;
  • A beam is nailed to the lower part of the lag, on which a trimmed board is laid;
  • All sections of the draft floor should contain waterproofing in the form of a film;
  • In addition, the cracks between the lags are filled with insulation, which is covered with vapor barrier material and moisture -resistant plywood.

The last base is placed atop the black floor. It’s a finishing layer that can take the shape of laminate, ceramic tiles, or parquet flooring.

Carrying structures of the floor of the frame house on piles

After the pile foundation is built and the binding is completed, the frame house’s flooring can be installed. Making it from a bar, an I-beam, or a channel is preferable. The lags will be attached to wooden beams that we will use for binding. There should be no more than three meters in length for the strain of the beams. Use of extra supports from the piles is required if the flight exceeds this value. You can use a beam made of coniferous wood that has a cross section of 100 by 100 mm for beams.

It is essential to waterproof the base with foam, roofing material, or polyethylene film before installing the strapping.

It is essential to waterproof the base with foam or roofing material before installing the strapping.

After installation of the beams, you can proceed to laying the lag. The step of these elements is 500 mm. The construction of the floor in the house on piles is performed using beams (lag) with a cross section of 100×250 mm – for the first floor and 70×200 mm for the second floor. If the overlapped spans are small, for example, in the bathroom, then you can reduce the beams of the beams to 50×150 mm. In some cases, a step of the lag of 40 cm is used to increase the strength of the structure. In more detail about how to mount the floor frame, you can watch in the video at the end of the article.

You must mark the same distance as their step before placing the lag on the strapping. Additionally, lag-wide drank recesses are present in the strapping broes. The lags are fastened with dowels, screws, nails, or self-tapping screws after being laid in the grooves.

Important: To prevent deterioration and combustion, antiseptics and antipyrens must be applied to all wooden supporting floor structures. Boards measuring 30 by 30 mm must be attached below the lags.

Transverse jumpers are occasionally connected to one another with a step of 150 cm during the lag construction process in order to strengthen the floor structure. However, doing so is not required. It is advised that the structure be increased in this way if the heated concrete floor is installed.

Boards measuring 30 by 30 mm must be attached below the lags. Transverse jumpers are occasionally connected to one another with a step of 150 cm during the lag construction process in order to strengthen the floor structure. However, doing so is not required. It is advised that the structure be increased in this way if the heated concrete floor is installed.

Regarding the second floor, ceiling beams rather than lags will be utilized in this area. We use 500 mm as the measure of their step. The floor will be installed directly over the beams.

Warm floor in a frame house

It is also crucial to consider all pertinent details when manufacturing the floor, or even better, when planning it. For instance, it’s critical to attend to the heat coating’s manufacturing right away if you find that the floor needs to be heated.

Beam floor insulation scheme.

If having heated sex is one of the requirements for dependable sex, you should first weigh your options and select the heating method that is best for you. Warm floors can be installed throughout the entire house or just in specific areas, such as distinct rooms or spaces that are crucial or important.

The entire system of pipes—preferably made of plastic—that make up the warm floor is arranged throughout the space of the room or house based on where the floor insulation is found. If your frame home has a warm floor system installed in its entirety, you will need to manage this heating system. This will require one control center, which is best placed off to the side to avoid disturbing anyone. It is preferable if it is a locked, unusable space, like a basement.

Go back to the contents table.

Black screed

Slab or tape foundations are used to create black concrete screed. The black screed in the tape version refers to the lack of an underfloor or other empty space beneath the first floor’s overlap. The plate itself can serve as the black screed in the slab foundation.

Floor screed in black.

The most robust floor overlap option is the concrete black floor. Any equipment, including heavy musical instruments and heating devices, can be installed on it. On the concrete foundation, you can install the warm floor’s pipes and cable.

A concrete floor insulates poorly from heat. Since concrete is "cold," insulation is necessary. Because the concrete floor hurts and feels "cold" on the legs, it is covered in "warm" materials like insulated linoleum, cork panels, and wooden parquet. Alternatively, set up the "Warm Paul" heating system there.

Take note When a home’s interior space exceeds 4 by 4 meters, the concrete screed is reinforced. Before pouring, a metal grid for reinforcement is laid. A large gas or wood-angular boiler, a piano, a bathroom, and other heavy appliances or objects in the home also require this kind of hardening.

Furthermore, a concrete screed’s thickness can change as it hardens, which can save concrete. Therefore, at a thicker screed level of 5–6 cm, the use of a reinforcing mesh gives strength to a thin concrete screed that is 3 cm thick.

Final coating

The choice of material

When selecting a finished flooring, materials made specifically to be installed over a heated floor should be given priority. Because of their high thermal conductivity, the room will be able to absorb as much heat as possible.

The warm floor can be immediately covered with soft flooring, such as carpet or linoleum, but hard flooring, such as laminate, tiles, etc., requires an additional base made of plywood sheets or moisture-resistant drywall.


Any material must lie in the room for at least a few hours prior to installation in order for it to "get used to" the microclimate of the space.

It is preferable to use the lightest flooring materials for a home with a wooden floor structure. These will include laminate and linoleum.

With a tiny overlap on the walls, linoleum fits on a thin (1-2 mm) polyethylene substrate or without it if it has its soft layer from below. It can expand or sit down after being dealt with on the floor surface for a few days, so you shouldn’t cut it along the wall’s contour right away.

Painting tape or adhesive is used to secure linoleum. If there is puffing and bloating on the coating, this area needs to be compressed and straightened with a heavy object. Installation should take place in a draft-free space to avoid coating alterations and deformations. Additionally, you should wait to arrange furniture; the glue needs time to solidify.

Following linoleum flooring, skirting boards made of wood or plastic are installed around the perimeter of the space, with aluminum specifically designated in the joints.

In order to account for the variance in material size caused by temperature changes, the laminate is installed with a small indentation from the walls. Individual boards of the material should be laid with distinct transverse joints rather than on the same line.


Even a novice in the construction industry could easily complete the labor-intensive but straightforward task of installing the frame house’s flooring. Accurate calculations of required sizes and material amounts will be aided by the regulatory documents. Using premium materials and adhering to technological advancements will provide you with a long-lasting design.

The waterproofing of the foundation and the antiseptic impregnation of every wooden floor component are things that should not be compromised.

Paul’s device in the assessment recording of the frame house

Calculation of the load from the screed in the frame house in wooden lags

The frame’s heated floor is the same as that of other homes. The most important thing to do before pouring a screed is to determine if the floor lags can support a concrete load.

We start with the following figures when calculating loads: average mass of one cubic meter (plus or minus) of concrete: 2300–2500 kg; Generally speaking, your screed the apartment’s size * the screed’s height; in my instance, this equals 87 * 0.06 (87 squares for every 6 cm of screed), or 5.22 cubic meters. My concrete screed weighs a total of 5.22 * 2500 = 13000 kg. Divide by four to obtain 150 kg per square meter of floor area.

I had 150 extra because my floors were constructed with a 450 kg load per square meter.

Setting beacons for screed

Since this is preparing the surface for the screed, builders have already connected at this point, and it should be even. The screed is 60 mm thick, but because of my uneven floor, it ended up being only 40 mm somewhere.

Lighthouses were displayed from the profile by fastening plywood with black self-tapping screws. Lighthouses revealed that variations of up to four centimeters occurred in some locations within the 11-meter wall’s framework! For this reason, I made a screed and installed the wooden lags in an uneven manner.

Concrete that is ordered straight from the producer. Six cubes were thrown to me for the "path" ahead, though eventually nearly one whole cube remained.

Stage installation of warm water floors

The way the TP is arranged in the frame house lags I began with a movie.

1. A sheet of polyethylene on plywood. Water cannot pass through the film from the screed onto the plywood. This is essential to prevent the screed from breaking. Thus, attempt to create a hermetically sealed film by taping all of the seams. In another film I made, there is a 10–50 cm step on the wall. because it provides the wall with extra protection from concrete mud.

2. Tape Dampfer Every room has dumping tape applied to its exterior as well as the spaces between them. In order to prevent cracks in the threshold areas between rooms, it is necessary that the expansion of concrete slabs created by the screed crush on this tape (expansion of 5 mm, and the tape is 10 mm and is remembered by any means).

3. Grid for welding A 50 × 50 roll with the net is a little trickier because, once rolled, it always tries to go back to its starting position. Also, when you smoot it in one direction, its second part ends up in your foot, leaving questionable impressions. I used pneumatic claws and brackets to secure the grid to the faner. Compared to screws, it is far faster. The grid’s geometry is flawed; even when everything is dispersed equally, it still does not converge with a nearby grid and everything moves in waves. I solved this issue by using screws and brackets:

4. PERT 16 pip pipe I suggest that you sketch out all upcoming contours before installing pipes. This will assist in determining how many meters of pipes need to be purchased. I’ve only arranged my contour sizes four times.

Sketching his outline of the TP I am in the archicade; that’s pretty easy. Recall that the ideal circuit length is 70 +/- 5 meters and that the contours should not cross one another (i.e., begin designing them from the right to the left in long rooms).

Then, we simply arrange our home in accordance with the drawing!

Laying a 600-meter stretch of warm flooring is highly practical if you have this type of homemade twist:

Remember that the insulation fits in the openings:

One location could not be error-free. I examined the pipe and made the decision to use a hair dryer to preheat it. Her eyes were closed! It turned out that a construction hairdryer could not be used to heat the pipe. I had to remove this section and add a press dummy to it:

Consequently, I worked on a layout with my wife for roughly 25 hours using 550 meters of pipes. simultaneously saved thirty thousand rubles. and even relished it.


Cheap and simple to use, but challenging to install. Use gas or solid fuel boilers to heat water. If there is a resource, a solid fuel boiler will ensure that the house is always warm. when there is neither gas nor electricity to operate the gas boiler. Additionally, there are options like concrete screed or light heating systems. Warm water floors cannot be installed on the second floor or above with a concrete screed because of the associated costs, complexity, and unreliability.

Given that a flooded screed on the second floor that is 7 cm high, for instance, 30 m^2 will weigh up to 6 tons. After a lengthy 28 days of what is known as the "wet process," the concrete has fully crystallized.

There are light heating systems to prevent this.

Wooden and polystyrene light heating systems are available. The wooden system, which has an 18 mm thickness, is more affordable but requires more work to install. extremely widespread, making materials more easily accessible. To produce a rigid floor and secure aluminum plates, the floor is laid in between the guides, at a distance of 18 to 22 millimeters.

Floor arrangement

It is advised to consider both the mass and the material’s strength properties when selecting a suitable floor material for the frame building on the pile foundation. In order to prevent undue loads on the building’s supports, it should be as small as feasible.

Wood is the best choice (aspen, oak, or coniferous breeds are recommended as preferences). It ought to be completely dry and free of obvious damage.

High-quality wood should be used for the floor’s base because it must be able to support a heavy weight.

As soon as the grillage is laid and the pile base is constructed, the frame building’s floor arrangement gets underway. It is advised to use beams made of coniferous wood with a cross-section of 10 by 10 cm when building the binding in conjunction with a wooden floor. If there are more than three meters separating each individual support under the beams, more racks are positioned in the middle of the flight.

The lags are installed at a 50 cm step on top of the fixed beams. The suggested lag’s cross-section is 10 by 25 cm. With a 5×15 cm bar, small spans (under the restroom or hallway) are permitted to overlap. The strapping is first marked with marking along the step’s size to expedite the lag’s laying. Landing seats beneath the lag width are a feature of binding elements. Fasteners such as screws, nails, or self-tapping screws are used to secure the bars stacked in cuts to the base.

Antiseptic fluid is impregnated into supporting floor structures to provide dependable protection against moisture and harmful insects. The lags are covered with a 30×30 mm board on the lower cut. In certain instances, extra jumks are used and stacked on top of the lag with a 150-centimeter step to strengthen the floor structure. When using heated concrete screed inside a frame house, this is typically necessary. The floor is insulated separately in all other situations.

The floor will gain some strength from the jumpers. You can acquaint yourself with the most well-liked projects that construction companies submitted to the "Low-rise Country" house exhibition on our website.

Thermal insulation of the floor of the first floor

If you choose to construct a home from scratch using screw piles, you should give the first floor’s insulation extra thought. Such extensive thermal insulation is not necessary for the second floor’s wooden floor, which is constructive.

Beams of beams are typically used in the construction of houses on piles. To accomplish this, in accordance with the plywood or OSB plate slats fastened to the lags fastened from the bottom. The section’s design will be similar to the letter sh.

Wooden floor design with insulation on the lags

You can now turn on the vapor and hydro-barrier device. To accomplish this, take these actions:

  1. On top of the lag we spread the waterproofing film so that it sags into the gaps between the lags. You can use membrane waterproofing or ordinary film.
  2. We lay in the intervals between the lags (on top of the film) thermal insulation material. Mineral wool is suitable for these purposes. If you want to insulate your house on stilts well, it is better to use basalt cotton wool.
  3. The waterproofing film on the lags must be fixed with a stapler.
  4. The structural floor of the floor of the first floor in the house on stilts should include vapor barrier. If you are building with your own hands, then do not forget that vapor barrier material is laid with a overlap of 150 mm. Joints are sure to glue.

Any room on the first floor, including the living room, kitchen, and bathroom, is being built using the aforementioned method. Regarding the second floor’s constructive floor, it can be completed without the use of heat or waterproofing materials. However, installing a waterproofing layer in the floor design is worthwhile in bathrooms and other areas with moist processes. You can find out more about installing the house’s floor on stilts by watching the video that is provided below.

Laying of the flooring

An illustration of how to lay downshole finish coating fines

A board 3 centimeters thick is used to create the next layer of a constructive pie. When laying boards by hand, take steps of 40–50 centimeters. You can get a ventilation gap with such a crate in lag. The boards can be fastened to the lags using self-tapping screws.

Additionally, the floor of the house is being constructed in the following order:

  1. On the crate from the boards, we lay the black floor. It can be a dodgy or ordinary board. We attach it to the crate with self -tapping screws.
  2. With your own hands, you can lay the purchased flooring.

Since the floor in the bathroom and bathroom will be tiled, it is preferable to level the surface onto the black boards by laying plywood or OSP. In addition, extra waterproofing that is applied to the faner needs to be applied in a constructive manner in these kinds of rooms.

Warm floor of the frame house

You can perform a warm floor in a house on piles with your own hands. The process is straightforward and proceeds as follows, though it is not demonstrated in the suggested video below:

  1. The constructive cake of the warm floor includes the same loading wooden frame as for the floor without heating, with the only difference being that the plywood sheets do not fit on the brush boards, but on the cranial bars attached to the lags on the sides. You can use a cranial block with a cross-section of 30×30 mm and fix with a step of 15-20 cm.
  2. After laying plywood on bars and performing waterproofing in the lumen between the lags, we lay the polystyrene foam. The upper surface of the polystyrene foam plates should be in the same level with the top of the lag.
  3. Next, lay the layer of vapor barrier films, leading it to the walls above the estimated level of the final floor.
  4. We put a reinforcing mesh on top of the film and pour it with a thin layer of cement mortar.
  5. Then, on the reflecting layer of foilizol, we lay out the heating mats of the warm floor system. Perform a concrete screed.
  6. We lay the flooring. If the floor is made in the bathroom or in the kitchen, then you can use tiles.

The suggested video provides additional information on how to construct the floor in the frame house:

It is advised that you read:

Devices for floors in a home without a basement HALLWAY TYPES AND THE FLOTHER OF A WOODEN HOUSE The internal house foundation’s waterproofing system

Polystyrene screed technology

Correct pipe installation is the only way to achieve efficient heating of the home with a warm floor. As previously mentioned, warm floors fixed with dry polystyrene screed are ideal for frame houses. In this instance, laying floors is a multi-stage process.

In the initial phase, light polystyrene blocks are used as the flooring material. Because each element has a "lock" mechanism, they can be easily fixed together. Polystyrene blocks are lightweight and compact, making it possible to install the base in a room that is 30 to 40 square meters in a matter of hours.

Additionally, flexible pipes are installed into specifically designed grooves using polystyrene foam as a foundation. The pipes may be placed in different locations based on the needs of the heating circuit. The pipes are laid, and then hydraulic testing is done. Their objective is to locate any potential leaks and mistakes made by the installers when they installed the pipes in the grooves.

The installation of final waterproofing substrates and the flooring of unique heat-distributing plates represent the next phase of the project. The owner still has to select the flooring material and install it over the screed at the end of the project.

In the pursuit of warmth and comfort in our homes, installing a water-based radiant floor heating system is a game-changer, especially in frame houses built on piles. This innovative method efficiently distributes heat evenly across the floor, providing a cozy environment while saving energy. Unlike traditional heating systems, a water warm floor in such houses offers several advantages, including reduced heat loss, improved energy efficiency, and a more consistent indoor temperature throughout the year. By utilizing the space beneath the floor, this system maximizes the available area and minimizes clutter. Additionally, in frame houses on piles, where conventional heating methods may be challenging to implement due to limited space or specific architectural considerations, a water warm floor solution proves to be a practical and effective choice. With proper installation and insulation, homeowners can enjoy a cost-effective, eco-friendly, and comfortable heating solution that enhances the overall living experience in their frame house on piles.

How to make a floor with your own hands step -by -step instructions

Learn how to accurately control the performers by studying the algorithm, even if you plan to avoid getting involved in construction yourself.

Preparation for the creation of sex in a frame house

Verify first if the foundation was actually turned out. Measure the heights of the various sections and conduct a diagonal test to achieve this. In the event that errors exist, they are fixed. The building’s perimeter is then opened up in the foundation, and anchor bolts are inserted to secure the head.

Next, the foundation needs to be waterproofed by applying a suitable solution or installing a waterproofing film.

Laying is the roofing

Lejni: These are bars or boards that are fastened to the building’s exterior using anchor bolts. They need to be precisely and consistently fastened. The lieutenants must meet minimum thickness and minimum width requirements of 50 and 150 mm, respectively.

After that, the head is installed as follows:

  1. Put boards directly on concrete slabs and marry where to cut off excess.
  2. Calculate in which places it is best to spill the bolts
  3. Harvesting holes in concrete.
  4. Lay waterproofing
  5. Install boards and fix them with anchor bolts. After installation, check the compliance with the horizontal plane. If it is not, they are adjusted to the work.

Supports and Paul beams

The primary structural components that support the entire floor structure of a frame house are beams. Protection gear must inevitably process them.

Here’s how the installation is carried out:

  1. Marked on the plan of the house where supports will definitely be and what will be their height. Then the supports are installed and the twine is pulled to track that everyone has the same height.
  2. Cut according to the beams of 100×100 mm indicated in the first point of measurements and placed it on the areas that are indicated in the plan. A waterproofing layer is laid under the beam. Fix the supports with nails.
  3. Begin to lay the beams with ends in the pocket. To install them in height, special liners are used. It happens that the workpieces are longer than the expected. Then the excess is cut off. And with insufficient length, docking the beams on the support is made.
  4. Fix the beams to the heads with the help of corrugated nails. If their height exceeds 1 m, it is necessary to use wooden brings.

Binding and lags

Use boards with a 50 mm thickness for the strapping. The anticipated load and the insulation thickness are taken into consideration when determining the width. Here’s how the installation is carried out:

  1. Put the strapping on the sides of the house, installing the boards parallel to the floor beams. Install the material on the end, aligning it along the outer edge of the head, after which they are scored with nails with a step of 20 cm.
  2. Stand where the lags will be located. To do this, the strapping near the corner measure 40 cm near the corner. Lag boards are immediately placed on beams and put on the side, aligning by marking.
  3. If the length of the board is sufficient, on the opposite side it makes a similar markup. Pruning the lags and fix them to the heads and strapping, as well as to the beams if they cross them.
  4. If the length is insufficient, the junction is carried out. The joint should be on the overlap beam.

Floor insulation

Mineral wool is the best material to insulate the floor within the frame. Her one flaw is that when she gets wet, her thermal insulation qualities are lost.

As a result, it’s critical to create excellent wind, vapor, and hydro protection.

A binder treated with bio-protective agents is placed under the lags if the insulation density is low.

  1. Across the lag begin to lift a vapor barrier film, allowing a small sagging. This is necessary so that the insulation can fit into the openings between the lags. All joints are sealed with tape, and the film itself is attached to the tree with a stapler.
  2. The insulation is laid between the lags so that there are no cracks. With a double layer of insulation, it is necessary that it is overlapping.
  3. A layer of waterproofing is laid on top of the insulation and also fixed to the stapler. It is needed to prevent the wetting of the insulation due to moisture that can come from the house.


There are various ways Paul in a frame house can be outfitted. The decision to choose one option over another will depend on how frequently it is used. Thus, constructing the floor base in a country home is a relatively easier task than in frame buildings intended for long-term occupancy, where extra insulation is typically required and involves installing a warm floor system.

Various types of flooring can be identified based on the layout and kind of foundation, as well as budgetary constraints.

Monolithic floor

On top of a concrete screed, this base is executed. The following favorable attributes are ingrained in the designs:

  • long service life;
  • resistance to serious loads to the surface;
  • The base is ready for the arrangement of a warm floor system.

The concrete screed is completed following a number of preparatory actions, including:

  • soil leveling work;
  • creation of a sand pillow;
  • laying a layer of crushed stone on a sand pillow.

Make sure the screed is filled so that the finished surface is devoid of any voids. A black base typically needs to solidify completely over the course of three weeks.

Following the screed’s creation, the pie’s cut can be shown as follows:

  • a pillow of sand and a layer of crushed stone;
  • screed with waterproofing and insulation;
  • vapor barrier material;
  • the design of the warm floor;
  • finishing screed and flooring.

Frame floor

The foundation of this design is made up of strips, piles, and pillars. Its characteristics include the construction of intermediate and load-bearing beams as well as lag. Preparatory work related to installing a head is the first step in the arrangement of the frame type of floor. These are waterproofing material-filled boards that fit on the foundation. Furthermore, the products are fastened with anchor bolts.

At the conclusion of the work, a strong and rigid design can be obtained thanks to the role-laying technique. They also make cuts for lag in the lyjnia. There may be distinct product sections for every floor and room. For the first floor, experts advise utilizing beams with a section of 100 x 250 mm; for the second floor, 70 x 200 mm; and for bathrooms and showers, 50 x 150 mm material should be bought. The lags have boards fastened to them, and a black floor is then installed.

The section’s piles on stilts have the following appearance:

  • OSP plates with a thickness of 6 mm;
  • waterproofing and soundproofing;
  • insulation;
  • OSP shield;
  • Extruded polystyrene foam.

The floor cake for summer houses is made up of the aforementioned components as well as extras like:

  • foamed foam substrate;
  • gypsum sheets;
  • Any finishing coating.

The pie will look like this for the kitchen and bathroom, as well as any other areas that need heating in the winter and have a high relative humidity:

  • vapor barrier material;
  • reinforcing mesh;
  • the contours of the warm floor;
  • waterproofing;
  • screed;
  • layer of foil polystyrene foam;
  • Chronic base.

A warm floor must be set up in buildings where permanent habitation is anticipated. In this instance, the floor structure will resemble this:

  • aluminum plates;
  • warm floor system;
  • foamed substrate and GVL;
  • Any type of final base.

There are several advantages for homeowners when installing a water warm floor system in a frame house that is raised on piles. First of all, it ensures comfort in the winter by efficiently heating the entire house. A warm water floor system, in contrast to conventional radiators, heats the air uniformly throughout the floor, fostering a comfortable atmosphere from the ground up. Traditional radiators heat the air primarily near the ceiling.

Energy efficiency is also enhanced by installing a water warm floor in a frame house that is raised on piles. In comparison to traditional heating techniques, the system runs at lower temperatures, which saves energy and, eventually, lowers heating costs. This system optimizes heat retention by utilizing the floor’s inherent thermal qualities, saving homeowners money over the long run.

Furthermore, installing a water warm floor on piles in a frame house is a reasonably simple procedure. Radiant heating can be installed professionally and planned so that homeowners can benefit from it without having to make major changes to their living area. With the water warm floor system, interior design possibilities are maximized because it is hidden beneath the floor, unlike bulky radiators or ductwork that may invade usable floor area.

Moreover, improved comfort and health advantages are provided by a water heated floor system in a frame home on piles. Better circulation is encouraged by radiant heating, which also lessens the movement of dust and other allergens that are frequently connected to forced-air systems. This can improve indoor air quality and be especially helpful for people who have allergies or respiratory problems.

In conclusion, homeowners looking for comfortable, economical, and efficient heating solutions would be wise to invest in a water warm floor system for a frame home raised on piles. Its energy-efficient, easy-to-install design, even heat distribution, and health benefits make this system a strong substitute for conventional heating techniques, improving living conditions in the house overall.

Video on the topic

KD.I: The best, inexpensive and reliable water warm floor on piles.

Warm water floor in a frame house on piles. #Teplypol #heating #frame

Warm floor in a frame house

No. 85 Warm floor without screed. Foil system and autonomous heater.

What type of heating you would like to have in your home?
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Michael Kuznetsov

I love to create beauty and comfort with my own hands. In my articles I share tips on warming the house and repairing with my own hands.

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