The insulation of the foundation with foamyx technology

Insulation is essential for maintaining a comfortable and energy-efficient home. The foundation is one area of insulation that is frequently disregarded. However, insulating the foundation has a big impact on how comfortable and energy-efficient a house is. Foamyx technology provides a creative solution to this, completely changing the way that our homes are insulated from the inside out.

In the past, inadequate or no insulation has been used for foundations, which has resulted in heat loss, moisture problems, and higher energy usage. This story is altered by Foamyx technology, which offers an extremely long-lasting and efficient insulating option made especially for foundations. Its special formulation and application technique guarantee the best possible thermal performance and moisture resistance, solving common issues with conventional insulation techniques.

The adaptability of Foamyx technology is one of its main benefits. It can be used for both new construction and retrofit projects because it can be applied to different kinds of foundations, such as concrete, block, and stone. Because of its adaptability, almost any type of home, regardless of age or architectural style, can have its energy efficiency and comfort improved by builders and homeowners.

In the long run, Foamyx technology provides an affordable insulation solution. Homeowners can benefit from lower energy costs and a more constant interior temperature all year long by minimizing heat loss via the foundation. Furthermore, because of its durability, the insulation will not need to be replaced or maintained as often for many years to come.

Innovations like Foamyx technology are essential as we work to create more environmentally friendly and energy-efficient homes. With this cutting-edge technology, homeowners can lessen their environmental impact while simultaneously increasing comfort by insulating the foundation. A more comfortable and effective future for home insulation is being ushered in by Foamyx technology, which has demonstrated performance and many other advantages.

Benefit	Insulating the foundation with FoamyX technology can reduce heat loss and lower energy bills.
Durability	FoamyX technology provides long-lasting insulation, protecting the foundation from moisture and decay.

Is it really necessary to warm the reinforced concrete foundation?

Therefore, it is imperative to first allay any concerns regarding the wisdom of insulating the reinforced concrete foundation. Additionally, multiple justifications can be offered simultaneously.

• It will be very naive to believe that the insulation of walls and floor is solved the problem of thermal insulation of the premises of the first floor. If the foundation in its buried and basement remains “naked”, then it, due to the huge heat capacity, turns into a powerful cold accumulator. And will literally “pull” the heat developed by the heating system. The consequences are clear: these are difficulties with ensuring comfortable living conditions, and no one needs an overrun for energy carriers. And with the insulated foundation, heating costs are very sensitively reduced.
• If the foundation is not insulated, then the temperature of its upper buried part, higher than the level of freezing, and even more so as basement, will always be very different from the one that is in the sole area (here it does not particularly change throughout the year). Such a difference in temperature and its difference in linear expansion of the material create very significant internal stresses in the reinforced concrete foundation belt. And this, in turn, becomes a prerequisite for the appearance of cracks, to the accelerated aging of the structure, to deformations and even gradual destruction. So, it is necessary to take measures to eliminate such a “temperature gradient” – this will just help make a layer of thermal insulation.

If the reinforced concrete foundation starts to "pour" after a few years, not many people will be happy about it. And the absence of thermal insulation is precisely one of the primary causes of this erosion.

• The eternal “enemy” is water that penetrates the pores of the material and leads to its erosion when freezing and thawing. Thermal insulation is fighting and with this. Firstly, most of the insulation materials used in this area of the building themselves become a good waterproofing barrier. Secondly, the thermal insulation layer takes the dew point outside, it is in the layer of insulation, and the material of the foundation does not suffer so much from high humidity in combination with temperature drops. Of course, high -quality concrete in its characteristics has a rather high frost resistance indicator (permissible number of freezing and thawing cycles). But this laid reserve of his strength still should not be consumed thoughtlessly.
• As a rule, the foundation insulation is carried out in combination with the creation of an insulated blind area around the perimeter of the house. This combination of vertical and horizontal thermal insulation will not allow the soil to freeze in the area of the foundation tape. And this, in turn, means that the forces of frosty swelling will not act on the foundation.

By preventing direct soil contact with the waterproofing applied to the foundation tape’s walls, the foam layer will shield it from mechanical damage.

• In the importance of waterproofing of the buried part of the foundation, incorrect, no one needs to convince anyone. And the layer of insulation here is played by another very noticeable role. Firstly, it does not allow direct contact of wet soil with reinforced concrete tape. And secondly, it protects the waterproofing layer applied to the foundation from mechanical damage.

Take note of a crucial detail. The thermo-insulating layer can only have all of the aforementioned benefits if it is placed outside of the foundation tape. Avoid leaving "for later" and planning to collapse the walls "when hands reach" from the inside. Yes, this might help to slightly improve the basement’s microclimate. In actuality, though, the foundation is still unprotected. That is to say, only outside!

Why is the foam is seen by the optimal material for insulation of the foundation?

The range of thermal insulation materials available today is pretty extensive. However, not all of them are appropriate; only the foundation’s particular insulation requirements.

It makes sense because the insulation is actually buried underground, which means there will be extremely detrimental mechanical effects. Furthermore, there is continuous contact with the soil, which is full of moisture and frequently contains extremely aggressive chemical compounds, particularly in the upper layers.

That is, the material needs to be strong and rigid enough, not hygroscopic, have a high degree of inertia to chemicals that are aggressive, and maintain its thermal insulation properties over the course of its life. Extruded polystyrene foam (EPS) is one type of material that exists. PenopolEx is among the most well-known producers of EPPS in Russia. And thanks to a little modification, its name has now become a household name: foaminglex, which is what high-quality extruded polystyrene foam is commonly referred to as.

The company’s name eventually spread throughout the public; the foam is frequently referred to as all the quality slabs made from extruded polystyrene foam.

Still, let’s examine the exclusive "Penopolex" products. The company offers four different brands of insulation plates for individual construction: Comfort, Foundation, Wall, and NACE ROUL. The names are very handy because they make it clear which parts of the building the material is primarily intended for insulation.

It should be noted that these brands are all sufficiently versatile. Penopolex ® Foundation plates are, however, optimally suited to the particular operating circumstances outlined above.

Penopolex ® Foundation slabs: the best option available

For compression and fragmentation, these plates have been given more mechanical strength and stiffness. Furthermore, there is no need to worry because they are not specially processed to boost their resistance to fire or UV radiation. It is evident that a layer of soil covers them, providing total protection from both sunlight and fire. However, they don’t perform any less well as thermal insulators than slabs meant for walls, ceilings, etc. P.

The following table lists Penoplyx ® Foundation’s primary attributes:

Name	Test method	Unit	Numerical indicators
Compression strength at 10% of linear deformation, no less	GOST EN 826-2011	MPa (kgf/cm²; t/m²)	0.27
Static bending	GOST EN 826-2011	MPa (kgf/cm²; t/m²)	0.4
Density	GOST 17177-94	kg/m³	27 ÷ 35
Water absorption in 24 hours, no more	GOST 17177-94	% in volume	0.4
The maximum water absorption during the first month of operation (it will not become above)	GOST 17177-94	% in volume	0.5
Vapor permeability coefficient	mg/(m × hour × pa)	0.005
Fire resistance category	F3-123	group	G4
Thermal conductivity coefficient at (25 ± 5) ° C	GOST 7076-99	W/(M × ° C)	0.032
The temperature range of operation	THAT	° C	-70 … +75
Standard dimensions	Width	mm	600 (useful – 585)
Length	mm	1200 (useful – 1185)
Thickness	mm	50; 100
Settlement life	years	at least 50
Approximate cost of one slab 50 mm	rub.	200

As you can see, the material is fairly durable and light. It has the benefits of additional waterproofing due to its near total waterproofness. Unlike ordinary white foam, which is a close "relative" of foam, the chemical structure of this foam is highly stable and completely immune to biological decomposition and defeat.

Information on how to insulate a wooden overlap with your hands might be of interest to you.

The foam (as it will be referred to in the article going forward, considering the "Penopolex ® Foundation") is more convenient to work with because it has docking edges all the way around the plates. When the material is laid, Mr.-shaped grooves (quarters) overlap the joint joints, creating a continuous thermal insulation coating without cold bridges.

The material is easily cut with a hacksaw or even a sharp building knife if necessary.

Foamyx technology for insulating foundations is one innovative method that stands out in the field of home heating and insulation. This cutting-edge technique provides a revolutionary way to improve a home’s overall comfort and energy efficiency. Homeowners can effectively stop potential heat loss and moisture buildup by adding foamyx insulation to the foundation. This will ultimately result in significant energy savings and improved durability. Foamyx offers superior moisture and heat resistance qualities over traditional insulation materials, providing long-lasting weather protection. Foamyx technology is a leading option for updating home insulation techniques because of its simple application and outstanding performance, which promises a more economical and environmentally friendly method of preserving indoor comfort.

According to what scheme is the strip foundation insulated?

An approximate scheme for thermal insulation of the foundation with a foam

Prior to delving into the intricacies of the foundation insulation technology, it is imperative to address the overarching plan that guides its creation. Although the scheme is simplified somewhat, it nevertheless captures the essence of the original design.

One potential design for the foamyplex tape foundation insulation stoves

1. The earth at the building site.

2. A sandy pillow beneath the sole foundation (sandy-german, sand-gravel, depending on the properties of the soil).

3. The ring drainage system pipe is visible. If the foundation was built on a wet site or is prone to periodic wetness, this system is typically installed around its periphery.

Four: tape for a reinforced concrete foundation. (Incidentally, the foundation may be prefabricated and composed of missile stones, reinforced concrete blocks, etc.)

The fifth is the foundation tape’s required external layer of trustworthy waterproofing for the vertical walls.

6. A layer of insulation made of foam troops that is firmly pressed to the foundation tape’s waterproofed surface the whole height of the structure, from the basement’s upper level to the sole.

7 – a backfill layer of reverse soil. Using the soil that the wound selected is advised for this purpose, but sand or a sand-gravel mixture will also work.

Eight-sand-gravel pillows for the house’s insulated blind areas.

9. Beneath the blind area is a layer of horizontal insulation made of foam plate plates. They will prevent soil from freezing where the foundation tape is located.

It is not a dogma where the horizontal insulation layer is located. It is frequently found farther down, in the sole region; in those instances, the foundation has a shallow depth of occurrence, above the soil’s freezing point. In any case, the insulation belt should fit into the vertical precisely and without any gaps.

11. To stop water from the basement from capillarily suctioning into the walls, waterproofing is also applied to the tape’s horizontal upper surface.

Wall construction, step twelve.

13 – thermal insulation layer on the facade. Please take note that an entirely different insulation with the required vapor permeability has typically already been used in this location. Neel recommends Foamyplex as a facade insulation material. However, in any case, the two stories of insulation (the wall and foundation’s basement) should fit closely together to prevent the cold from getting through.

14: Tsekol’s conclusion.

15. The facade is completed.

The description did not go unnoticed; it made clear that multiple layers of thermal insulation needed to be sealed tightly. Unfortunately, many inexperienced homegrown builders make a number of serious mistakes that, even if they don’t undo all the work, drastically lower the foundation’s insulation effectiveness. Furthermore, since we are discussing a scheme, it will be useless to point out such potential mistakes right away.

Typical errors when warming the foundation

Below, three examples will be displayed. In all of them, the insulation scheme is executed incorrectly on the left while it is executed correctly on the right.

In the first example, the base has an unscarried

Thus, the initial instance.

Wrong (left). For unknown reasons, thermal insulation is placed exclusively on the buried part of the foundation and under the blind area, but its basement, part of the ground, protruding above the ground, was left completely “naked”. In principle, here we can safely say that forces and funds were almost wasted. The widest “bridge” has been left, even rather, the “highway”, according to which the cold will spread down (with wide blue arrows, the left path of the cold is shown). And not only down – the ways of spreading the cold to the floor of the first floor, and to the walls starting from the basement of the foundation, remain open. That is, thermal insulation in the lower part of the walls also practically stops working.

To the right (on the right). From the foundation’s sole to the basement’s upper oversleep, there is a layer of thermal insulation. Here, he merges or even crosses over with an insulation layer on the wall. The pathways that allow the cold to enter are blocked.

In the second instance, there was a break in the thermal insulation on the foundation’s horizontal surface.

Erroneous (left). It appears that there are no questions with the insulation of the foundation tape walls—a continuous layer from top to bottom. On the other hand, a wall was built on a broad ribbon and trimmed with facing bricks after insulation. And this brickwork is a very good cold bridge, as is the remaining portion of the foundation’s horizontal surface that remained outside. And nothing to stop it from spreading to the sole.

To the right (on the right). Should the situation demand it, a layer of the foundation’s thermal insulation should still be paired with wall insulation concealed beneath brickwork. Therefore, you must first complete the facade finishes and then the horizontal insulation of the foundation’s basement in order to achieve this goal.

The third scenario allows the cold to enter the sole through the opening between the horizontal belt and the vertical thermal insulation.

Erroneous (left). Not exactly an ordinary case, but still. Beneath a brick veneer is the insulation layer of the foundation. There appears to be a space between this layer and the soil’s horizontal belt-lined thermal insulation. In order to disperse the cold through this opening to the foundation’s sole, the road is opened. Furthermore, this should not be taken lightly because a "bridge" of that kind is capable of quite serious "ugliness" in extremely cold weather.

To the right (on the right). In situations where a gap at the top cannot be avoided, the horizontal insulation belt must be moved to the sole area and inevitably connected with a vertical layer. Alternately, as the figure illustrates, leave the upper belt buried and beneath the blind area. The sole will then be fully protected by a continuous layer of thermal insulation, greatly reducing the impact of cold on the soil surrounding the foundation.

What should be the thickness of the thermal insulation of the foundation?

A specific thickness of thermal insulation must be maintained for the foundation’s insulation to truly "work." Obviously, this needs to be disclosed beforehand, even during the planning phase. This will, for the most part, dictate how much it will cost to acquire the required quantity of material.

There are two methods for calculating the thickness. The first is by means of the materials’ coefficients of thermal conductivity, beginning with the structure’s normalized thermal resistance. The second is to use the so-called "frost index" to find the desired parameter based on the tables.

We consider based on thermal conductivity coefficients

We should offer the reader the option to use the built-in online calculator right away, along with all the instructions they need to use it, rather than torturing them with calculation formulas.

Calculator calculation of the thickness of the basement insulation

Necessary explanations for calculating calculations with a calculator

• The calculation is repelled from the value of the normalized heat transfer resistance. This value is installed by SNiP, but you can not rummage through the reference books, but to take a value from the schema offered below, of course, for your region of residence. In our case, the thermal resistance “for walls” will be required – the indicators are highlighted in the diagram with violet numbers.

It should not be difficult to determine the required value of thermal resistance for your area of residence using this scheme. Consider the meaning "within walls."

• Further, it is necessary to indicate what the foundation is made of (except for monolithic reinforced concrete, there may be other options), as well as the thickness of the foundation tape.
• The next step is the insulation is selected. Although our article is devoted to thermal insulation using a foamyplex, the calculator is more universal, and allows you to evaluate options using other materials that can also be used in the conditions of foundation insulation. In particular, this, in addition to EPPS, is PSB foam (not recommended), PIR plate (magnificent qualities significantly exceeding the capabilities of EPPS, but very high price), and sprayed polyurethane foam (considerable cost + the need to attract specialists with special equipment).

The final step is to select the "Calculate…" button to obtain the completed solution in millimeters.

Determine the thickness by the table

This computation technique is a little bit easier. It’s true that it lacks universality; the result is less accurate because the material and thickness of the foundation’s stent are not taken into consideration. However, since it will still mostly be rounded to the standard thickness of the plates, special accuracy is not needed. Furthermore, the value that is obtained will be almost solely for the foam. However, this is sufficient given the context of our article’s theme.

However, the suggested horizontal insulation belt thicknesses around the foundation’s perimeter are also provided right away. Additionally, considering the areas in the corners that have thickened. Let’s break down the illustration.

Continuous horizontal thermal insulation belt encircling the strip foundation’s outer edge

Thus, a conditionally strip foundation is depicted in gray in the plan (as seen from above). It is surrounded by penumplex slabs laid in a continuous horizontal belt that are connected at the ends by thermal insulation fastened to the tape’s outer walls. In order to prevent the extruded polystyrene foam insulation of the foundation from becoming ineffective or even useless, the width of this belt (DP) must adhere to specific specifications.

Furthermore, it is advised to thicken the layer of this horizontal thermal insulation in the inner and outer corners. One of the computation’s outcomes will also provide the length of the thickened section (DU), if measured from the angle’s point.

It’s a very easy calculation. Finding the "Frost Index" map for your area of residence is the first step. This conditional value, which is determined by experts, combines the annual percentage of days with negative temperatures and the intensity of those days. In actuality, the number won’t tell us anything; in our situation, it’s just necessary to get into the table.

The European portion of Russia’s map-scheme featuring the Index of Frost’s strokes

If the place of residence is within the space between the applied lines, you can interpolate to get a more precise value if needed. You can work with any local construction or design company if you’d like to know an exact figure for your city. However, perfect accuracy is irrelevant to our computation.

Thus, all that is left to do is proceed to the table below if they have a value.

"Frost index " (THEM)	The thickness of the EPPS layer of vertical thermal insulation of the walls of the foundation (mm)	The width of the horizontal thermal insulation belt DP (m)	The thickness of the epx of the horizontal thermal insulation belt (mm)	The length of the thickened areas from the corners of the DU building (m)	The thickness of the EPS of the thickened area (mm)
less than 35000	84	–	–	–	–
35000	91	0.3	18	1.2	25
40000	98	0.6	32	1.2	44
50000	112	0.9	49	1.5	69
60000	126	1.2	63	2	95
70000	140	1.5	81	2.5	121
80000	154	1.8	102	3	152
90000	168	1.8	133	3.5	200

Indeed, right here, with all the wisdom. All that’s left to do is slightly enlarge the results to match the standard foam tilt sizes. At that point, you can safely determine how much material will be needed and estimate the quantity based on local foam prices.

How work is carried out on insulation of the tape foundation with a foamyplex – step -by -step

Insulation of vertical walls

The foundation’s initial waterproofing and insulation are closely related. Furthermore, even though public issues are not the intended focus of our portal, in this instance they must be addressed. It is hard to draw a distinction between these two events because they are so closely related to one another. Therefore, we’ll assume that waterproofing operations are just one of the required steps in the overall block of thermal insulation work when it comes to warming the foundation.

To improve clarity, we will attempt to depict the work process as a table-institution that progresses logically from start to finish.

Illustration	A brief description of the operations performed
	If the old foundation is insulated, then quite large -scale earthen work will have to be performed – choose soil throughout the height of the tape, up to its sole. In the construction of a new foundation, this is usually provided in advance – along the tape, a working trench is left in advance. Then, after a concrete of strength and a package, the “front of the work” immediately opens with concrete. The width of the trenches is made such that it can be freely moved and perform all the necessary operations for waterproofing and insulation, and with deep -laying foundations, the installation of construction forests or goats is sometimes also required.
	The next important, and at the same time – a very unpleasant, dirty task is to clean the walls of the foundation tape from all pollution, dust, adhering garbage and even from irregularities caused, for example, by influxes at the joints of the formwork boards. There is nothing to be done – without this there will be no proper adhesion with the waterproofing composition and dense fit of all subsequent layers, without leaving the voids.
	For cleaning from dust and dirt, metal hard brushes are used – there are special models that can be installed on a grinder to facilitate the task. large irregularities are lost, and with smaller ones you have to work with a special grinding circle for concrete. The work is very dusty, therefore, it should be carried out in compliance with precautions, using skin protection products, eyes, and respiratory organs. But it is still not worth neglecting this stage, as some do, since insufficient preparedness of surfaces can negatively affect the quality and effectiveness of both their waterproofing and insulation.
	The purified surfaces are primed. For this, a liquid composition on a bitumen basis is used – primer. A very good, high -quality example is “Primer No. 01” by the famous Russian company “Technonikol”.
	When applying a primer, the primer is not spared. The layer should turn out quite thick, with the obligatory filling of all bumps. Small recesses, shells, open pores strive to remain “dry”, so here we need special attentiveness. Work can be done using a roller with a pile of medium length. But all external and internal corners and other complex areas are without fail are so primed with a brush. No gaps are unacceptable. After the entire outer surface of the walls of the foundation is covered with a primer, you can and should immediately carry out the same processing and horizontal surface of the tape from above.
	High -quality waterproofing involves not only surface coating, but also gluing roll materials. This example uses rolls "Technonikol Linker Om". Sticking them implies a “hot” installation method, that is, using a gas towns to melt the adhesive layer. That is, both the burner itself and the balloon with propane are required.
	It is unrealistic to cope with such a task – an assistant is required. The task of one master will be the work of a burner – the melting of a protective film on rolled material (it is important that the side must be paid to the manufacturer. Usually, logos and the necessary inscriptions are applied to it – it is easier to control the process of melting. The second master rolls it over the surface in the course of heating the roll and takes a roofing roofing room tightly to the wall. Work always undergoing upwards. That is, they start from the sole, glue all transition fillets, the horizontal section of the wall, and only then go to the vertical wall of the tape.
	If the burner heated correctly, the required melting of the protective film has been achieved, then the roofing material is excellently glued to the reinforced concrete surface that is chopped by the bitumen primer. It is important to ensure that there are no air bubbles left so that the material is tightly adjacent to the wall along the entire area.
	A field of the upper part of the canvas is firmly glued, returning down – there almost always remains an unleashed “starting” strip of roll. is nothing wrong – it is slightly lifted up, the back is heated by the burner until the film is melted, and then finally fixed on the surface of the wall.
	As a rule, gluing roll waterproofing is carried out along the tiers. That is, at first the sole and the transition to the vertical walls are completely closed. Thus, by the way, a kind of reinforcing belt is set in this very difficult site in its configuration. After this “tier” is laid along the entire perimeter of the foundation, they move to less problematic in terms of the complexity of installation with vertical walls of the tape.
	External and internal angles always require special attention. The main rule is this – when gluing the roofing material on one wall, a strip of 150 mm wide should be bent to the next. And, accordingly, on the contrary, when working on the second wall. A counter -overwhelming oncoming a high reliability of waterproofing in these problem areas is obtained. If there is a need, then when preliminary fitting the canvas at the place the necessary cuts are made.
	According to the readiness of the lower "tier" waterproofing, they cross above. When measuring the size of the walls necessary for straight sections of the wall, it is necessarily taken into account that they should lie down with an overlap on the lower, already glued, not for 100 mm.
	As a rule, the canvas is marked and cut off with such a length that it on top after bending on the horizontal surface of the tape is completely blocked by all widths. That is, the horizontal waterproofing of the foundation will be performed at the same time.
	Work is carried out in the same order, and in compliance with the same rules as on the lower tier. and so – until the entire external surface and the upper horizontal platform of the strip foundation are covered with a layer of waterproofing.
	In the presence of funds, it is very desirable, and in the case of construction on the ground with a tendency to seasonal waterlogging – it is strongly recommended to stick the second layer of rolled material in the same way on top of the first. In this case, the canvases are glued in this way. So that the overlaps of the paintings of the lower layer are completely overlapped with whole sections of the paintings of the upper layer. Other installation rules – unchanged. This will be achieved one hundred percent guarantee of the reliability of waterproofing, even in the presence of some pressure of groundwater.
	After the waterproofing is completed, you can proceed to the installation of insulation plates. They will be attached to the wall with the help of adhesive composition. And here the options can be different. Firstly, it can be a special glue for thermal insulation work, which is available in the form of a dry construction mixture. Glue is divorced in strict accordance with the attached instructions immediately before the start of installation work.
	Secondly, it can be a prepared adhesive composition, also intended specifically for insulation operations. This is a finished plastic pasty mass, packaged in hermetically sealed buckets. Starts to harden when in contact with the air. is very convenient, but, of course, it will turn out much more than with a dry construction mixture.
	Finally, many masters prefer to use foam tilts on the already finished waterproofing bitumen mastic. A very good solution, but on one condition – the mastic should not contain any organic solvents, since the polystyrene foam with them is “not friends”. The best option is a special bitumen mastic, which is designed specifically for the installation of thermal insulation materials. A characteristic example is “mastic No. 27” of the production of the same well -known company “Technonikol”.
	The installation of thermal insulation slabs begin to lead from below. in this area, if the foundation sole has a complex shape, you will have to cut the foam so that it repeats all the angles and changes in the direction, completely covers all the insulated surfaces. We"ll have to try, as the cut fragments should fit very tightly to each other, without gaps. Particularly trouble can deliver external and internal corners – it is unacceptable so that, for example, at the top of the outer corner, a layer of thermal insulation is thinner than on the rest of the surface. It is clear that when working in this area of the foundation tape, more time will go to the adjustment of foam foam fragments than to glue them. In direct vertical areas, work will go much faster.
	Glue on the stove can be applied in different ways. The illustration shows three main methods – pointwise (or beacons), stripes or in continuous distribution of the composition over the surface using a gear spatula. The last method is allowed if the insulated surface after the waterproofing work is very even, and there is no probability with such installation to leave the air cavities under the foamyplex. Whatever the way of applying and distributing the glue is chosen, two conditions must be met: First – after gluing and pressing the slabs, the contact area should be at least 40% of the area of the plate. The second – when pressing the plate to the insulated surface, the glue should not protrude around the perimeter, since this will prevent the normal installation of subsequent plates. If the glue still performed, his excess should immediately be removed by a spatula. It is clear that this will significantly increase the unnecessary consumption of the composition.
	The foam plate smeared with glue is tightly pressed to the surface in the right place and kept in this position with the application application for about 10 ÷ 15 seconds. This is necessary so that the glue is distributed over the area of the plate, its adhesive qualities began to act. After the specified pause, the final adjustment of the position of the foam plate, slightly shifting it in the right direction. Naturally, at the same time it is necessary to achieve a tight fitting of the castle edges so that there are no gaps left.
	And now – attention! Use additional mechanical fastening of foam tilts in the deepened part of the foundation. And if you do not work on your own, but invited masters who begin to use the “fungi” dowels, as on the illustration of the illustration shown by this defiant, boldly chase them in the neck. But let them rest on the completely spoiled waterproofing first! Judge for yourself – whether it was worth trying, thoroughly priming and pushing the walls of the foundation with roll material, achieving the tightness of all joints of the paintings, if the holes are drilled in the waterproofing?! by and large, no additional mechanical fastening is required here at all – the soil after backfilling the trench will very tightly and reliably press the glued stoves of the foam to the surface of the foundation tape. And they can neither go anywhere, nor move by definition.
	A completely different matter when it comes to the above -ground, basement of the foundation. Here, yes, you will have to fix the plates with the help of dowels of “fungi” (which in no case cancel the need for their preliminary installation for glue!). To install such mounts after the glue is completely setting, the holes are drilled directly through the insulation. The length of the “fungus” leg should be such that its spacer enters the base of the basement wall by about 50 mm. After installing the “fungus”, the central spacer or screw is clogged into the hole or screwed. Subsequently, the clicks of the “fungi” caps will be hidden by the basement. The location of such dowels-“fungi”-in the corners and one in the center of the stove.
	You can show another affordable way to install insulation plates – it is just suitable if the waterproofing was performed by melted roll material in two layers. In this case, some masters using a gas burner produce a small local melting of the outer layer of roofing material, of course, very carefully to prevent through burning.
	In order for the solid plate of the foam to restrained on the vertical surface, two or three such areas of surface melting will be enough.
	After that, the plate is installed in the intended place and tightly pressed to the surface of the wall. You can’t make mistakes here – it will not work to adjust the situation as with glue. After 10 ÷ 15 seconds, the bitumen filling will completely freeze, and the plate will be securely fixed on the surface.
	After the entire surface of the foundation is closed, it is necessary to seal seams. Perhaps, especially in complex areas, the cracks remained. Large gaps can be filled with carved fragments of polystyrene foam. All small gaps are filled with mounting foam – and it is better that it is the corporate composition of the “foam -polex”, as the most adapted to the insulation. After the foam is hardened, the emerging surpluses are cut off off the general surface. It is recommended to smear these sealed joints of joints from above with bitumen mastic – just to protect the foam itself from the destructive effect of moisture. And she has not at all the same, like EPS, the degree of resistance to her.
	Based on the results of calculating the thickness of the insulation, it may turn out that it will require laying the foam tilts in two layers, for example, the lower – 100 mm, and the external one another 50 mm. In this case, the installation of the outer layer is carried out so that the joints of the lower slabs are completely overlapped with straight sections of the upper. Such a displacement of seams will completely close all possible "cold bridges". naturally, after laying the second layer, sealing the seams with mounting foam is also carried out.
	The heater slabs are mounted. It would seem – everything, you can fill the soil. In principle, yes, it is possible, and many do so. However, it will still be reasonable to provide protection for the foam itself from the destructive effect of chemically aggressive soil moisture. The following options are possible here:
	The insulation can be “plastered”, or rather, covered with a protective thin layer of the same glue, which was used to install plates. Or by a special composition designed for coating waterproofing. To keep the applied layer well, plaster fiberglass grid is placed in its thickness.
	The second option is to stick the cheapest roofing material or even pergin on the top of the bitumen mastic. In this case, the canvases should be reduced with adjacent to a width of 100 mm. Such a layer is not only the protection of polystyrene foam, but also another waterproofing barrier, which will never become superfluous. And the best option is to use a special polymer profiled membrane type “Planter-Standard”. She is completely waterproof. And besides, its characteristic structure with protruding pimples becomes an excellent damper when backfilling soil- the likelihood of random damage to the created hydro-insulating structure is significantly reduced.
	Everything is ready for the backfill of soil. Temporary supports are intended to a greater extent to hold the membrane – it will then be tightly pressed by the earth, and the supports will be removed as it is packed.
	The backfill of soil is performed. Of course, if the volumes are large, then it will be more reasonable to attract special equipment to this business. very often, instead of the selected soil, a sand-gravel mixture is filled along the walls-this significantly reduces external loads on the insulated walls of the foundation. Layer backfill alternate with a thorough tamping of these layers, for which it is best to use a vibrating plate.
	The backfill is finished – a manual ennolation of the perimeter is ahead with simultaneous horizontal insulation of the area adjacent to the foundation and with the device. But this stage is often held later, closer to the general end of the construction of the house.
	In the meantime, in our example, the construction of a brick base is made on the foundation tape. The edge of the insulation plates, the below will subsequently close with the thermal insulation of the basement.

Horizontal insulation around the perimeter of the foundation

The formation of a warm belt in the soil surrounding the foundation while the blind area is arranged concurrently is one of those topics that most likely needs in-depth discussion in a different publication. And we’re sure to see an article like that on our portal soon. As a result, without getting into the specifics, just a brief summary of the key phases.

• When performing reverse backfill, it is stopped at a level of about 300 mm below the ground level. If the backfill was previously performed completely, you will have to dig a trench to the same depth. The width of the trench is approximately 100 mm more than the calculated width of this insulation belt. True, calculations can show that the insulation belt requires less than 600 mm. It doesn’t matter – all the same, the minimum width of the belt is taken in size of a whole slab, that is, the trench will turn out about 700 mm width.
• The bottom of this trench is subjected to very thorough tamping to prevent the soil subsequently, already during the operation of the house – otherwise the blind area will go in cracks. Then the formwork is mounted along the outer edge of the trench. Its height should be such that it protrudes above the surface of the earth by about 100 ÷ 150 mm.
• The sandy “pillow” with a thickness (after tamping) 100 mm is laid on the bottom of the trench. Some masters recommend laying a layer of inexpensive roofing material with gluing along the lines of the hollow lines on top of it. Maybe it will not hurt – the insulation will receive excellent protection against soil moisture from below.

An illustration of how to lay the foam tilts around the base perimeter in a continuous horizontal belt.

• Next, foam tilts are laid. They are simply laid out on the surface – no adhesive compounds in this case are required. But two important conditions must be observed. The first is the dense fit of the ends to the vertical thermal insulation layer of the foundation (its basement). The second is a dense joint of the slabs among themselves, without leaving the cracks. Do not forget about the recommended areas of thickening of the insulation at the corners of the building. For such areas, so that the additional layer is below, does not protrude above the common surface, you will have to think over the recesses into the trench of the required length and depth. But all this is solved in place and does not present special problems.
• After laying the plates, sealing all the remaining cracks and gaps – using the same installation foam. Including, with particular care – between the vertical and horizontal thermal insulation belts. Excess foam, after its expansion and hardening, are cut off with a common surface of the foam.
• Next, a layer of dense plastic film or inexpensive roofing material. Such waterproofing measures at this stage are important because it is impossible to allow water to flow from a concrete solution when pouring the blind area. Otherwise, the water -cement ratio will be violated, and the concrete will turn out to be fragile, it will not last a long time.
• The reinforcement layers are laid with the next step. For these purposes, it is quite possible to use a ready -made welded grid with rods with a diameter of 3 ÷ 4 mm and cell size 100 × 100 mm. You can link a grid of reinforcing bars and yourself. It is important that the grid does not lie on the insulation, but would be located in about the lower third of the poured concrete blinds. For this, racks are supplied under it – these can be prepared plastic parts specially designed for these purposes, or just lining, for example, from pieces of old thick ceramic tile.

Before pouring the blind area, lighthouses were erected to align the surface beneath a slight slope in the wall and a heater was placed to reinforce the mesh.

• Blinding always flood with a small slope from the wall, for free gathering rain or melt water. To set such a slope, beacons are usually installed, for example, from the segments of the board, as shown in the illustration.

Pouring concrete over insulated blockages and leveling their tops

The only thing left to do is level the surface of the blind area and fill it with concrete using the beacons as a guide. Ironing (clean dry cement) or a special topping is applied to the surface to strengthen it and provide maximum durability, even when grasping concrete. Another method is to line the blind area with tiles after the concrete has fully matured. Nonetheless, a greater range of choices for additional cladding or other finishes are permitted here. This is not relevant to the subject under discussion.

Another instance of foam insulation of the foundation was overlooked in this publication. Specifically, little attention is given to the plate foundation. Since the technology is entirely different in practically every way—from calculations to real-world application—this is a different topic. Only when it comes to the building’s exterior soil insulation does the resemblance persist. Thus, a separate article will address this subject.

Now, though, watch the attached video to get a general idea of the slab foundation insulation’s features. Click the link to study long burning stove.

A critical first step toward guaranteeing comfort and energy efficiency in your house is insulating the foundation. Thanks to technological developments like FoamyX, homeowners can now address this crucial component of home insulation with a dependable and efficient solution.

Compared to conventional insulation techniques, FoamyX technology has a number of benefits. Its sturdy yet lightweight design makes application simple, cutting down on labor expenses and installation time. Better thermal insulation is another benefit of FoamyX, which reduces heat loss through the foundation and lowers energy costs.

Moisture resistance is one of the main advantages of using FoamyX for foundation insulation. FoamyX helps avoid problems like mold, mildew, and structural damage by forming a barrier against moisture infiltration, ultimately extending the life of your home’s foundation.

In addition to its usefulness, FoamyX has environmental benefits. It is an environmentally friendly and sustainable insulation material that offers long-lasting performance while lowering your home’s carbon footprint. This is in line with the expanding movement towards energy-efficient and green building techniques.

All things considered, using FoamyX technology to insulate the foundation of your house is a wise investment that will pay off in the long run. FoamyX provides a comprehensive solution to meet the insulation needs of modern homes, from enhanced durability and environmental responsibility to improved energy efficiency and comfort.

Video on the topic

Proper insulation of the foundation / insulated blind area or vertical insulation of the foundation / base

🔻 The foundation of the foamyplex foundation 🔻 technology for the installation of polystyrene foam for the foundation and blind area in winter

DIY insulation (basement)

The insulation of the foundation and the blind area of the frame house . The most correct and best technology! Make sure yourself!