How to insulate the loggia with polystyrene foam

Are the winter months a little chilly on your loggia? It may be time to think about using polystyrene foam insulation. This easy-to-use yet efficient solution can help control the temperature, improving the comfort of your loggia all year long.

For homeowners wishing to lower their heating expenses and increase energy efficiency, polystyrene foam insulation is a popular option. Because of its portability and simplicity of installation, it’s a useful choice for insulating the loggia and other parts of the house.

Polystyrene foam insulation for your loggia can act as a barrier to prevent heat gain in the summer and loss in the winter. This reduces the need for heating and cooling, which not only improves comfort but also contributes to energy bill savings.

The high degree of thermal resistance that polystyrene foam insulation can offer is one of its main benefits. This implies that it successfully stops heat transfer, maintaining a constant temperature inside your loggia regardless of the external conditions.

Our post on using polystyrene foam to insulate your loggia will discuss an economical and effective method of keeping your house warm all year long. Because of its insulating qualities and lightweight design, polystyrene foam provides a workable way to lower heat loss and energy costs. Your loggia walls and ceiling can be properly insulated against outdoor temperatures and kept comfortably warm inside by installing polystyrene foam insulation. We’ll walk you through every stage of the installation, finishing touches, and preparation to guarantee a successful insulation project that improves your home’s comfort and energy efficiency.

Common errors when warming the balcony and loggia mineral wool

Unexpected outcomes can arise from independent construction. The most frequent mistakes are as follows:

1. Using mineral wool without vapor barrier will ruin the floor and wall covering. The material will quickly dive, and the neighbors will find condensate on the ceiling of the loggia. In addition to leaks, fungi and mold may appear.
2. The choice of incorrect material for setting the cracks will lead to the creation of "cold bridges". The installation foam should be used.
3. Internal insulation will not allow the desired result if external insulation is not performed due to the lack of heat accumulation.
4. Incorrect laying of insulation on the loggia or balcony is additional waste. The home owner will have to insulate the room again.

Video:

Ceiling and walls

To rule out the possibility of cracks or a drunken plaster appearance, the surface is closely inspected. Every gap is filled in with mounting foam, and the top is sealed with a tape mixer.

It is advisable to inquire about the insulation of the balcony floor from above if the balcony ceiling and the upper floor balcony floor form a joint plate. There is no need to insulate the ceiling in the case of the loggia’s insulated floor. However, you can still perform lining work on your end to be absolutely certain that the heat won’t escape.

The majority of the double-glazed windows in the loggia are represented by its walls, which naturally don’t require insulation. However, iron sheet or concrete can be used for the lower portion. Insulation is necessary in this situation.

Using your hands, fasten a 50×40 mm wooden beam to the walls and ceiling. The installation process should begin at the wall and ceiling borders. The beam is then attached over the entire surface in 50 cm increments.

If an electrician needs installation done on their property, it needs to be done now.

Crucial! Only external outlets and switches should be installed on loggias.

Using specialized glue, Minvata is fastened to the wall and ceiling.

Similar to the floor option, mineral wool is divided into pieces the same size as the plots between the bars. The ceiling is where material warming starts. A unique glue is used to attach the minvata sheets. The sheets are pressed to the surface after the extremely careful application of glue.

A specific density and homogeneity must be achieved when making glue. Ultimately, excessively thick glue fails to offer strong surface adhesion. Conversely, because the liquid adhesive composition has a slight density, it may make the work more difficult. Consequently, glue should have a consistency that prevents it from flowing when applied to a spatula.

Counseling! Since mineral wool is a fairly delicate material, it’s crucial to avoid pushing when adhering.

Mineral wool is fastened to the walls in a similar manner. The best clutch is made by fixing mineral wool with construction stapler brackets and knitting wire.

Since the wall between the room and the balcony is already warm, wall insulation cannot be installed; however, all outlets and switches can be installed there.

Walls can be sheathed with drywall or Euro-car after insulation.

After installing the insulation with your own hands, you create a vapor barrier in the space. It is imperative that moisture does not cause Minvata to degrade and that the beam does not start to rot. Polyethylene can be used for this purpose by first attaching it to the ceiling and then to the walls. Polyethylene is laid out where the wall and ceiling will be. To insert electrical products, a vapor barrier film around socket and switch installations needs to be slightly cut.

You can begin the last tasks after the vapor barrier is installed.

At this stage, the ceiling is sheathed with your own hands with lining or drywall. Next, you can proceed to the flooring. The walls are finished in the last turn, and in the finishing material it is necessary to make holes for sockets and switches. At the end of the finish, the skirting boards are placed.

Convector installation within the building can provide the best insulation. This means that not only will the heat not go, but the ideal temperature will also be kept.

Preparatory work

Balcony insulation can be done externally or internally, though the former isn’t always feasible due to various factors. Among these are a breach of the building’s architectural style and the number of storeys on the balcony, which are brought on by the degree of risk involved in the work. An exact calculation of the required material and its cutting should be done during the preparatory stage of the project. In order to place insulation material between the load-bearing elements of the loggia, the technology for insulating the loggia or glass wool balcony requires removing all finishing materials and exposing the main frame of the building.

The following tools need to be maintained for this type of work:

1. 1 construction knife;
2. 2 measuring roulette, a long ruler or a rule and a level for the floor;
3. 3 electric screwdriver;
4. 4 Construction Stapler.

Apart from the primary component, mineral wool, you also need to ensure that there are wooden bars present. These will serve as both a foundation for attaching the finishing materials later on and a restraining frame for insulation. The bar’s dimensions in this instance could be 50 by 40 mm. Materials for a vapor and hydro-barrier will also be required.

Crucial! During cutting or installation, protective gloves and respirators should be worn to protect against tiny cotton wool fibers in order to ensure health and safety.

Additional recommendations for thermal insulation of the floor

Recently, home masters have frequently insulated themselves with their own hands. You can do this with the aid of the article’s step-by-step instructions. It is best to use 5-cm pip-25 brand slabs for the floor. The material’s density is shown in the figure. The heater can’t be used for the described work if you select one with a less impressive density.

Prior to applying foam to the floor, a waterproofing layer—which could be just regular film—is covered. Cut foam plates to the appropriate size and place them as firmly as possible on the oilcloth surface. Everything can then have a cement-sand mixture poured on top; this mixture will be about 5 cm thick. Self-leveling compositions are more costly, but they can also be used.

Work on the balcony’s insulation can resume as soon as the screed dries. A wooden crate is aligned using the construction level and reinforced on the concrete base. It is advised to use roofing screws with a bolt head as fasteners. Mounting foam is stuffed into the crevices around the outside where the crate is next to the walls.

It is necessary to sandwich thermal insulation between the transverse bars. The insulation and the design shouldn’t be separated in any way. Mounting foam should be inserted into the cracks if it was not possible to prevent this. It is advised to use a gun in this situation and to use as little foam as possible in the stream.

Completion of work on the insulation of the balcony

You must choose the room’s power source before proceeding to the last step of finishing. Before completing the job, electrical work must be done if lighting or socket installation is offered. It is advised to install external switches and sockets in such contracts.

Given that mineral wool is a material that is universal, there are many options for decoration. On the insulated balcony, you can apply wallpaper, paint conventionally, and even use colored plastering mixtures. Additionally, there are options for finishing with different panels and naturally occurring wooden chase products, like decorative lining or floor boards.

Once the balcony insulation has been implemented, it won’t take long for the room to be fully functional thanks to the power supply that has been provided.

The mineral wool insulation on the loggia is completed in the same manner as the balcony. Its monolithic structure makes it easier to keep warm, and there are several ways to secure mineral wool.

A loggia or balcony can serve as a workspace, a sports room, an office, a workshop, or even a bedroom. The room needs to be insulated for this. Without the assistance of building associations, you are capable of completing this on your own. An idea is first conceived, then it is put into practice. In order to make the outdated closet a really functional area.

The difference between polystyrene foam and foam

Compared to polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam is less dense.

While using different technologies, materials are similar in that polystyrene, polystyrene foam, and foam have a polystyrene base and are made of polystyrene.

In order to create polystyrene, the material is baked to a larger granule size while being steamed under water vapor in specific forms. Compared to polystyrene foam, foam has a lower density, and its crumbling characteristic arises from weakened ligaments connecting its granules.

Polystyrene is melted, then extruded through an extrusion machine with a foaming composition (soft, hard freon, or non-frail composition based on hydrogen) introduced under pressure. This process creates polistyle polystyrene foam.

As a result, dense, air-filled polystyrene foam with a strong structure is produced. produced with a foil surface that is conventional and has a stepped, flat edge.

Foaming agents that are based on hydrogen and don’t include freon—which can deplete the ozone layer—are the greenest.

Foam installation rules on the balcony

It is advised to apply waterproofing material (such as foam) to the surfaces before insulating the balcony. This will greatly improve the future structure’s capacity to withstand heat and keep the insulation dry. The foam’s identical material ought to be placed on top.

This rule must be followed especially if the balcony is heated during the winter, as there is a greater chance of condensation loss.

Waterproofing cannot be installed on a balcony that isn’t heated, or it can only be installed on the wall’s exterior, beneath the insulation.

All of the balcony’s surfaces have guides installed, in between which waterproofing is adhered, and following the laying of the foam slabs. Even before the guides are placed, insulation can be applied to insulated surfaces.

How to use your hands to apply foam insulation to the balcony

The same is used to mount the plates. A sharp clerical knife can be used to cut through the foam if needed, such as at the edges of the final plates.

The easiest way to secure plates is to use self-tapping screws with dowels or mushrooms.

Processing of cracks and joints in a layer of insulation

Leaks typically appear at the balcony’s corners and joints where the insulation has been installed. It is best to prevent insulation layers from having cracks because this will lead to the formation of cold bridges, which will reduce the benefits of thermal insulation. Segments of insulation material can be used to seal large gaps, and mounting foam can be stacked in small ones to stop cold air from freely entering the space once it dries.

Even extremely dense joints between polystyrene slabs ought to be further sealed using the identical mounting foam.

It is best to wait until the foam is completely dry before covering it with waterproof material after sealing. After that, you can proceed to the surface of the surface with drywall (for finishing or wallpaper), decorative panels, or lining, depending on the intended design.

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Insulation with polystyrene foam

You can watch firsthand on our website how to insulate a balcony using polystyrene and your hands; a video demonstrating the process is located a little below. The foam is not as strong as extruded polystyrene foam, but it is less heatconductive because of the air bubbles that make up its composition. Polystyrene foam sheets, which are displayed in stores, range in thickness from 5 to 15 cm; however, sheets with a thickness of 5 to 10 cm will be sufficient for insulation purposes. Polistyle foam retains its properties when the humidity level rises because it is sufficiently hygroscopic.

ATHOLISTING DIYAT DIY

As you can see in the picture, the loggia slabs of polystyrene foam are insulated using a simple method that involves first waterproofing the balcony’s surface and then smearing a primer that deeply penetrates the wall. Once the primer has dried, the heat-insulating material slabs are adhered to the walls. Furthermore, "mushroom" screws should be used to secure the slabs.

Although adding more vapor barrier on top is advised, it is not required. Then, a fiberglass reinforcing mesh is strengthened by a unique adhesive solution applied to the insulation’s surface. The grid is covered with paint (putty, plaster), or other finishes are applied.

Practical advice for insulating a balcony:

1. It is necessary to warm all the surface of the balcony that are not glazed, including walls bordering on heated living rooms.
2. To warm the surface, horizontal profile or wooden guides are mounted on it, between which insulation plates are subsequently attached. The thickness of these guides should be equal or slightly larger than the thickness of the plates themselves.
3. The guides should be located in parallel. The distance between them is withstanded so that the insulation slab can close to them close to them. Attach guides to the surface with self -tapping screws or dowels.

Skilled artisans advise beginning the installation of the polystyrene plates and guides themselves, moving on to the walls, and finally insulating the floor.

Mineral wool made of domain slags

Using technology for the production of metals as an example. consists of fibers that are 4–12 microns thick. Thermal conductivity ranges from 0.46 to 0.48 watts/m C. 300°C is the melting temperature.

Slag wool is significantly less elastic and more loose, almost glassy in texture.

This heat-insulating material has residual acidity from household products as one of its features.

Consequently, using slags in damp environments or while wet results in the formation of acids that may have a negative impact on metals or other chemically unstable materials. When compared to glass wool, the material that absorbs moisture more readily is slag, which is never used for insulation on exterior walls or in damp rooms.

How to insulate the balcony

Currently, there are roughly ten different materials available for balcony insulation. The principal ones are:

• polystyrene foam;
• Penoizole;
• Minvata;
• polyurethane foam;
• gas concrete slabs;
• Foil types of insulation.

Penophol combined with foam

Each of these insulations has benefits and drawbacks. However, we won’t linger on every kind of insulation; instead, we’ll focus on extruded polystyrene foam, which is the most widely used and in high demand.

This construction material is primarily meant to insulate walls made of different materials. The following are some benefits of foamyplex, also known as polystyrene foam:

• low thermal conductivity;
• minimum indicators of moisture absorption;
• material strength;
• Simplicity of installation: easily cut, does not crumble, like a foam, mounted on glue;
• It has various coefficients of combustibility, so it is recommended to choose material with a large coefficient, which indicates the minimum value of maintaining combustion.

Although this material has many benefits, its ability to insulate a balcony from the inside is perhaps its greatest attribute. As a result, we decide to insulate the balcony from the inside using polystyrene foam and take into account detailed instructions.

Balcony floor insulation device

Minvat can be arranged in two layers to break the cold bridge.

It is preferable to insulate the balcony floor first. You can use a heater to collect wooden floors or create a screed to insulate it.

It is essential to lay the hard mineral wool on an even black floor that has been waterproofed in order to create the proper insulated screed. On the black floor, a thin layer of mineral wool is laid around the parapet’s perimeter. This belt is constructed in the level with the future flooring, above the primary one.

In order to avoid the formation of cold bridges, a belt is required. Moreover, the primary insulation is coated with a waterproofing mixture. It is allowed to dry on the floor before being formed into a reinforcing frame and filled with finish screed. You can lay the flooring on top of this screed.

The width of the insulation is greater than the distance between the longitudinal lags.

On an isolated base that has been prepared, wooden floors are also gathered. First, lags made of wood are installed; these have first been coated with a composition to prevent deterioration. The lags must be 50 mm higher than the thickness of the mineral wool insulation in order to guarantee the air gap.

To ensure that the insulation is tightly laid between wooden boards, the spacing between the lags needs to be marginally less than the width of the insulation. Roll waterproofing is then installed. On top, there are installed black wooden floor boards that can be used to lay flooring.

In order to ensure that there are no pages or steps when the balcony extends to the balcony, it is crucial to accurately calculate the total height of all layers of the insulated floor.

How to fix polystyrene

There are two methods for handling the material’s fasteners:

If the first option is selected, the space between the walls must be filled in and a frame made of a metal profile must be installed on their surface. With metal scissors, cut the guide profiles to the appropriate length. Then, they are fastened to the loggia wall with dowel grooves or self-tapping screws. You must create a cellular design based on profiles. Waterproof material is used to seal the area and is stapled to the rails with a stapler.

It is advised to cut the foam to fit the size of the cells in order to better attach the sheets. Remember to account for the extra few millimeters. Foam is packed into the crevices and joints. It also processes the insulation inside the frame and the frame surrounding the perimeter. You should use a plastic foil film to seal the frame to prevent moisture from entering.

If the adhesive method is chosen, the sheets must be fixed to the surface by applying glue. They recommend using mushroom-shaped self-tapping screws to secure them to the wall’s surface in order to increase reliability. The material is first covered in glue, which is followed by a special reinforced mesh and yet another layer of glue. Mounting foam must be inserted into the cracks before the foil-covered film fasteners are placed.

Installation of insulation from mineral wool

Mineral wool spread out on the loggia’s wooden crate

In order to place the insulation material inside the walls, a wooden frame must be formed. This frame must be built from the top down, with mounts spaced 40–50 cm apart. The same idea applies to mounting ceiling guides. Mineral wool segments that have already been prepared are positioned in niches and secured with specialized glue. It is possible to use a construction stapler to further secure the insulation’s edges along the perimeter.

Insulating the floor of the loggia or balcony with your own hands should receive extra care. Here, excellent waterproofing is essential. Roofing material, polyethylene, or specialized waterproofing films can be used as the qualitatively required material.

Following the flooring installation across the whole balcony floor, waterproofing is applied to the guide lags, creating niches for the insulation and serving as the foundation for the flooring’s attachment. Up to 50 centimeters can separate floor lags.

Mineral wool spread out on the ground

Ensuring the installation of the electric network for the later placement of lighting fixtures, outlets, and switches is imperative when performing installation work on the mineral wool insulation of the walls. All wooden components used as frames need to be treated with specific materials to ensure their dependable resistance to deterioration, the damaging effects of moisture, and other elements. The floor frame in this instance needs to be processed multiple times.

The need for vapor barrier

A crucial component like the vapor barrier needs to be addressed by Minvata during the last insulation stage of the balcony or loggia. This material offers dependable defense against the formation of condensation in the completed space, which has a negative impact on finishing materials and the structure as a whole.

Mineral wool has a high absorption of moisture, which severely compromises its ability to insulate against heat. The balcony’s interior casing and the mineral wool should be separated by the vapor barrier. Vapor barrier is also important when warming the floor.

A membrane-shaped film is known as a vapor barrier. It gives you control over the removal of extra moisture from the building. It will take some time and effort to install a vapor barrier layer with your hands.

By using mineral wool for DIY balcony insulation, you can significantly reduce labor costs and thus keep costs associated with heating residential spaces within your budget.

The consequences of improper insulation of the loggia

Although the technology used to insulate mineral wool or loggia does not fall under the category of complex work, adhering to all regulations and standards is essential to producing high-quality results. Inappropriate material use or technological violations in the mineral wool insulation work sequence can have detrimental effects such as the following:

• Condensate formation;
• Getting wet of walls and floor, and in winter the formation of ice;
• Mold or fungus formation.

Thermal insulation as a set of measures

Mineral wool calls for a comprehensive strategy. The construction of the proper structure that can transform a typical balcony into an extra functional space can only be ensured by the excellent completion of all required steps.

Preparatory work

You have to take care of the windows before using mineral wool to warm the loggia. It is best to replace old window structures.

Chips in the insulated surface need to be covered with protective plaster or special adhesive materials. If not, the material’s connection will prove to be untrustworthy. The insulation will eventually start to peel off. The walls and ceiling shouldn’t have any areas that are crumbling or whitewashed. Multiple layers of priming are required for such defects.

How foam is fastening

Either glue or fasteners can be used for foam fastening. Which installation method is best is up to the master, as both methods of fixing sheets with the correct technology will enable foam to stay in place and last for a long time.

Consolidation using glue in this manner:

• Glue mixture is harvested;
• Applied on the panel of polystyrene foam;
• Foam sheets are joined and fixed on the walls.

Mechanical fastening technique It allows for a marginally different process:

Dowels are used in the foam fastening method to the wall.

• The necessary fasteners (dowels, screws with wide hats) are purchased;
• Holes are made on the surface in advance;
• Foam is fixed on the surface using special fasteners.

Glue-fastening more easily in terms of technology. The mechanical approach is more dependable, though. We looked at the attachment process in brief; we will go into further detail about it in the chapter on the direct installation of foam.

We warm the floor

The floor is first cleared of trash before insulation is applied, and then the roofing ground is creeping. Use a tape mixture where roofing sheet joints are present. Install the lags with a 50-centimeter step, placing them above the roofing material. The height from the floor to the balcony door less the thicknesses of the flooring, black material, and roofing material is how the bars’ thickness is determined.

Crucial! The lags ought to have a unique composition that keeps the material from decaying before they are installed. Subsequently, the building level and bars are used to install the lags.

After that, bars are used to connect the lags and the building level is used to install them.

Mineral wool for flooring insulation

Lag-formed cells are filled with clogged mineral wool pieces of the same size. In order to prevent small particles from getting into the respiratory system, it is also preferable to work with mineral wool for floor insulation while wearing a protective mask or bandage.

Self-tapping screws are used to secure the black floor to the lags following the installation and mounting of mineral wool.

Installation of insulation

• Polistyle foam is cut according to the size of the balcony walls and gender, on which it will be laid. It is easily cut by an ordinary stationery knife. Work is carried out in this order.
• Treat the walls with a pointed with adhesive solution, retreating from the edges of 5-7 mm.
• Press the polystyrene plates of the insulation to the wall of the loggia, withstand for several minutes until completely glued.
• Apply glue 2-3 mm thick to the heater surface.
• Additionally strengthen the material using plastic dowels-“mushrooms” at the rate of 6-7 pcs. per 1 m².
• Apply a reinforcing mesh with a frequency of cells of 5 mm on top, without lining it into an adhesive solution, let the glue dry.

The main disadvantages and advantages of foam

Foams are called foamed polymeric materials, which are made of polystyrene, polyurethane, polyethylene and polyvinyl chloride. All of them are beautiful heat insulators, but when it comes to internal or external insulation of walls, as a rule, polystyrene foam is implied. Basically, it is produced in the form of white plates, consisting of many rounded cells. Due to its low cost, it is used to fix and fix household appliances in packaging. However, you should not confuse packaging polystyrene foam with construction. They have extremely many differences.
So, construction is mainly used by PSB-S. There is an opinion that PSB-s is not a fuel-this is a lie. PSB-S slabs can refer to strongly combustible materials-G-4 group. According to construction standards, PSB-S, which is recommended for construction, should belong to the G-1 or G-2 group. For example, PSB-S 25 belongs to the G-1 group-weakly combustible, self-adjacent.Another common psb-s myth that this is almost eternal material. Когда подразумевают сам материал, то это чистая правда, а коли речь идет о плите ПСБ-С, то тут возникает множество вариантов. In the event that after laying the slabs is not thoroughly sealed, then fungi develops perfectly on them that destroy the structure, and the material is gradually painted. A real scourge for the material can be rodents or birds that use foam balls to build nests with pleasure. Cases are not individual when whole slabs gnawed or dumped.
a certain defect of the foam is its significant vapor permeability. As a result, it is better to use it for external work. However, this drawback is not a fundamental.
Despite the presence of these shortcomings, and even given that the foam is not strong enough and very fragile, it belongs to the number of best heaters, with a wonderful thermal conductivity, multiplied by excellent value.
Thus, if you decide to warm the loggia with foam and, at the same time, ensure compliance with all technological requirements regarding these works, you will get an excellent result.

Mineral wool or foam

Mineral wool insulation for the loggia is not the only option. Foam insulation as a method of thermal insulation is equally popular. This is an inexpensive and accessible resource. It is lightweight, simple to install and operate, retains heat effectively, and is not moisture-sensitive. The primary drawbacks of foam in contrast to mineral wool are:

• fragility;
• combustibility, although it does not flare up when exposed to fire, but is melted;
• Not breathing.

We outline the disadvantages of mineral wool in relation to foam for the most practical comparison:

• higher cost;
• Minvata is afraid of moisture;
• rodents can settle;
• The service life is less.

Polystyrene and mineral wool are tried-and-true materials, each with pros and cons of their own. Any of them can be utilized to complete self-performed insulation work on the building. The polystyrene insulation process is essentially the same as the mineral wool thermal insulation process. Thus, it is up to you to decide which material is best.

Facing

Once a vapor barrier is put in place, you can start building the structure. Typically, plywood, chipboard, MDF, lining, and drywall are used as balcony facing materials. A reinforcing mesh is put on top of the insulation if plastering is the intended finish for the walls.

Paul isolation

Insulation plates are laid to the floor in between lags that have already been equipped. Furthermore, there’s no need to fix the material. The film vapor barrier is put in place once the glue has solidified, and the floor is then sewn up.

You can start with the room’s decorative decoration after setting up the heat-insulating system.

Necessary tools and materials

Balcony insulation materials enable you to work quickly and effectively.

A brief inventory of the supplies and equipment required for autonomous foam insulation of the loggia or balcony.

You’ll require these consumables:

• mounting foam used to seal seams, joints and surfaces. For high -quality insulation, it is necessary to tighten and smooth the seams with foam;
• glue and dowels – mounting material for the insulation blocks, which will be placed on the walls of the loggia or balcony;
• waterproofing material (roofing material or foam);
• Elements of decorative decoration of sheathing – it is worth thinking about the use of bamboo wallpaper or wooden lining. These decorative elements not only extend the service life of foam, but also contribute to additional insulation of the room;
• reinforcing mesh;
• Wooden rails (optionally).

Equipment for insulating the balcony:

• Pistol for mounting foam;
• Various spatulas, round -liners, cutters, pliers, hammers, etc.d;
• electric drill;
• Chancellery knife and stapler.

To keep the heat in the joints and cracks, extreme caution must be used in processing.

Preparatory work

1. Before insulation of the balcony, it is advisable to assess its condition – is it able to, in principle, withstand the weight of additional structures. At this stage, you can determine that weight of the structure (windows + frame for insulation + insulation + waterproofing + finish), which can be added without risk that the balcony collapses. Based on the calculation and choose the degree of insulation and materials.
2. Assess the state of the parapet – perhaps it will need to be replaced or duplicated. It is the parapet that turns out to be a supporting design when installing glazing. If the parapet is bad, it can be cut off by leaving small fragments of mounts and walls of fasteners, then you can attach a new parapet to them.
3. Remove everything unnecessary from the balcony, clean, repair and primed all surfaces, large potholes can be dumped with mounting foam.
4. Install a new one or repair the old frame of the room (parapet, walls and roof).
5. (For the balcony, you need to choose the most light glasses, the best options will be aluminum, which is also a frame of walls, aluminum or lightweight plastic for frames).
6. Again repair the potholes that appeared, clean the balcony of garbage arising during the installation of windows, primed the places of new repairs.

Advantages and disadvantages of mineral wool

If you choose to use mineral wool for the loggia’s insulation, you must first educate yourself on this material. Mineral wool is referred to by a number of names that have comparable production processes, material structures, and properties.

Among the advantageous attributes are the following:

• excellent heat and sound insulation;
• small weight;
• a convenient form for installation;
• Nice.

It has previously been discussed how important the weight parameters are for balcony structures. When converting the balcony into a living room, noise reduction is just as important as heat conservation. One of the fair requirements for the materials used in the balcony finish is fire safety, and the mineral wool fully satisfies this requirement.

But the objective characteristic of the material implies the analysis of not only its pluses, but also minuses. Mineral wool has two main deficiency. Firstly, it absorbs moisture, under its influence, deforming and losing useful properties. Secondly, mineral wool is quite easily crumbled, forming dust harmful to the respiratory system. To solve the first problem, it is necessary to provide a heater with high -quality waterproofing. On the second point, we note that the mineral wool laid and closed by decorative finishes is no danger. Installation is recommended in protective clothing, including gloves, in the respirator and glasses, and the room after the end of the work is thoroughly sprinkled and wash.

Methodology of work

If you are thinking about how to build a warm balcony, the next step is to fix the cotton wool along the crate with a construction stapler and 10 mm brackets. After that, there is a plastic film that will remove the dirt from the previous layer. The last step is to lay a board or plywood on top; anything can be placed on top. As it is capable of acting:

• laminate;
• linoleum;
• Eurodosk;
• Carpet.

This type of thermal insulation is only appropriate for areas with mild winters. The placement of bars on the plate’s surface, which has a higher heat conductivity than thermal insulation, is a drawback of this technology. Islands of heat loss consequently emerge.

Available technology

After insulating with mineral wool, logging Loggia trim

By heating with mineral wool, the balcony or loggia can be converted into a fully functional living room with common household tools and no special skills needed.

• Perforator drill.
• Shurovyrt.
• Bulgarian.
• Knife -cutting down wood and metal.
• Passatigi and sides.
• Set of screwdrivers, furniture stapler and stationery knife.

You’ll need level and roulette for precise work. You can use an ordinary cotton pad in addition to a professional respirator to protect yourself from harmful dust. Construction gloves are the ideal choice when working with mineralized cotton wool. To prevent allergies and skin irritation, it is sufficient to remove all traces of the substance as soon as it comes into contact with exposed skin areas.

Types of insulation for parapet

The parapet serves as the primary "cold bridge" on the insulated balcony.

For this reason, he should receive special attention when working to establish a thermal circuit on the balcony.

The parapet can be insulated with a variety of materials. Nowadays, the most common types of thermal insulation are as follows:

The choice of insulation is directly impacted by the maximum minus indicators of winter temperatures in your area.

As a result, you are not required to take the advice of home masters from other cities at face value. Think about what the ideal balcony insulation thickness will be in each situation.

What to look for when choosing a material

The material’s density has an impact on its heat-saving properties. A sheet will occupy more space the thicker we choose. A sheet that is 80 mm thick and has a density of 25 kg per meter will be sufficient for a cubic meter.

You can use a sheet that is 50 mm thick if the extruded material has a higher density.

When selecting the content, we consider:

• all plates of the same thickness, width, length;
• granules of the same size, distributed evenly;
• Without an extraneous smell;
• packages are marked;

We consider that toluene, or occasionally a portion of it, dissolves polystyrene foam when using mounting foam.

Preparatory stage for insulation of the loggia with your own hands

First things first, everything needs to be cleaned out of the balcony room. It’s also essential to replace outdated wooden frames with single glazing that have been in place for a long time with more contemporary ones. It’s best to install new double-glazed windows with two or three panes if you want a warm loggia.

It is possible to insulate the loggia from both the interior and the outside. It is advised to insulate the balcony only externally to prevent the formation of condensation and moisture accumulation, but there are situations in which this is not feasible (for example, in order to not spoil the architectural appearance of the building). After that, insulation from the inside is meant to be added.

You will need mineral wool, roofing material, special glue, a building level, and a stapler to do it yourself.

Ceiling and wall insulation

If the floor of your neighbor is insulated from above on the loggia, then insulation of the ceiling of your loggia disappears, but it is better to do its skin. The wall adjacent to the living room can not be insulated, since it is warm. It is better to perform wiring on it for installing sockets and a switch.
To warm the ceiling and walls, it is necessary to perform a crate from a bar with a cross section of 50×40 mm in steps of about 500 mm. The installation of bars should start with the angles of the loggia. Attach bars to the ceiling and walls with self -tapping screws and treat with an antiseptic. Then start the insulation itself. The cut sheets of mineral wool are glued with special glue to the wall and the ceiling of the loggia. Glue should have a consistency of sour cream. They need to lubricate the gluing surface abundantly. Additionally attached sheets of insulation with dowels "fungi".
The next stage of insulation is vapor barrier. It can be performed with dense polyethylene, but better than foil with foamed polyethylene. The foil should be turned inside the loggia to keep heat in it. After insulation, we carry out final work. To the bars of the ceiling and walls we navigate the finish coating. They may be a PVC lining, a wooden lining or other materials. We fix the baseboard on the floor, and install special corners to the corners of the walls and between the walls and the ceiling.
The insulation of the loggia with mineral wool is successfully completed and your loggia is ready for living in the cold season.

Despite being brief, the video contains more information that you can use for yourself:

The choice of material

There is a vast array of materials available for insulation. These could include mineral wool, foamed polyethylene, and other forms of foam. Warming the Loggia mineral wool is the least expensive method. Wool is a fibrous substance made from melting different kinds of raw materials. It could be slag from domain furnaces, glass, or volcanic rocks found in mountains. There are various types of insulation available in this regard, including slag, cotton wool made of stone or basalt, and glass wool. These materials are easy to install and have good sound absorption qualities, but they are susceptible to moisture.

Glass wool

In a humid environment, glass wool has more crushing and fiber fragmentation. Glass wool should be tightly packed in plastic bags because even the smallest pieces can pierce the skin, eyes, and lungs. To ensure safety when handling it, wear overalls, gloves, glasses, and a respirator. Cotton wool is made into mats, rolls, and plates.

Stone cotton wool

Wool made of stone or basalt is the best. She is more dense, long-lasting, deformation-resistant, and easy to install. She is also not a fuel. It only shrinks by 5% at most. made essentially in plates. It is best to end your decision there. 50–100 mm is the thickness used for plates.

Slag cotton wool

Slag wool performs well as insulation, but its durability is limited by its high hygroscopicity and low vibro resistance. It is therefore less in demand.

Types of mineral wool and their features

It’s not always possible to create a warm and inviting space in a new room even with complete mineral wool balcony insulation. Stone or basalt wool is a better choice for this purpose when decorating the interior of the building. Its fibers are made of molten rock and are secured with a unique synthetic material that is unable to detect dangerously high concentrations of any one substance. When compared to less expensive alternatives like slag and glassy materials, this material has the best heat-insulating qualities.

Is it feasible to heat the balcony with glass wool? Even though this product is inexpensive, insulation made of it cannot fully convert a new space into a residential space. There will still be cold air passing through the thick layer, and glass dust will undoubtedly end up in the atmosphere.

Advantages of polystyrene foam

The best option for balcony insulation is extruded polystyrene foam, which has several benefits.

• durable, sufficiently resistant to mechanical influences, material;
• has a whole structure, does not crumble;
• not destroyed at temperature differences, can be used in the range from -50 to + 75 degrees;
• ecologically pure;
• does not lose its qualities, when exposed to high humidity;
• the material is not subject to decay processes;
• has high heat -insulating and soundproofing indicators;
• It has a slight weight, which is important, when warming the balcony;
• durability of 50 years;
• Low enough cost.

Floor insulation

The floor slab is primarily cleaned of garbage. Waterproofing is placed on the cleaned floor. It can be thick polyethylene or roofing material. A crate from a wooden beam that has the same thickness as the material is attached on top of the waterproofing layer. It must be treated with an antiseptic. To the floor slab, the crate is attached with dowels. Then, between the bars, the insulation is laid in it. It should be borne in mind that mineral wool with low density will give shrinkage. Therefore, the size of its sheets should be larger in the area of the space where it is inserted. The inserted insulation is covered with polyethylene, which is fastened with a stapler to the bars.
The flooring can be performed: – A genital board, processing it with a foam, which will save its characteristics. It is advisable to use a rogue board with grooves and protrusions; – OSB stove. Net the stove with nails or attach with self -tapping screws to the crate. We lay a laminate on it. Can be covered with linoleum or carpet after wall insulation and ceiling.

Installation of insulation in the surface of the balcony

There are various steps involved in insulating a balcony with mineral wool.

Strict adherence to each of the guidelines is crucial, as it is the foundation for the long-term and high-quality performance of the work done.

The waterproofing of the balcony’s walls, floor, and ceiling constitutes the first stage. The balcony’s walls must be waterproofed in order to keep atmospheric precipitation from damaging the structure’s projecting sections. Rolls of the materials are what this work is done with. Additionally, they are the best choices for the ceiling slab. However, there are a variety of materials available for the floor’s surface. They come in a variety of forms:

• various kinds of impregnations (for example, a mixture of paraffin and gasoline);
• mastic from bitumen or polyurethane;
• dye;
• Materials in rolls (for example, permamine, polyethylene film or roofing material). Waterproofing of the floor with polyethylene film

Phase two. At this point, a metal or wood crate is affixed to every surface, and the space between crossbars should be one centimeter smaller than the mineral wool blocks’ width. The thickness of its bar must be 0.5–1 cm greater than the thickness of the insulation in order to create an extra air gap between the insulation and the crate. Furthermore, the ceiling and walls must meet this requirement. To prevent cold air layers, the last gaps must be closed at the completion of the project (you can use the mounting foam).

The third phase involves moving on to the installation of mineral wool slabs. From top to bottom, work is started (first the walls, then the ceiling). The best plates with the highest density for the ceiling.

This is how the installation process appears:

1. A glue specially designed for such material is applied to the stove (it is very important that its consistency resembles sour cream by density, otherwise nothing will hold on).

1. Further, the plate is placed in the prepared cell of the crate (it should be a little longer than the cell), while first it must be bent in the middle, and then evenly pressed over the entire surface.

1. If a piece of insulation is too short, you should take two such pieces, taking into account the fact that their total length should be 2 cm larger than the cell.

1. In the end, all the gaps are necessarily filled only with glue.

The fourth step of the job involves fastening the insulation with dowels, cigarette, and plywood that has holes for fastening. Rails that are fastened to the crate allow for the mounting of the object on the ceiling. Here, self-tapping screws or a construction steppe work better than dowels.

The waterproofing stage is the fifth. You can use foam or a polyethylene film as a material. If the foil-covered side is positioned inside the balcony, the latter will offer superior thermal insulation. Penofol fragments need to be carefully adjusted to one another and secured with a unique foil tape. It is not necessary to modify polyethylene film because you can buy complete pieces in the right size right away. Fragments may be mounted and overlapped if they are not big enough. Foil tape is used to seal the joints.

Facing is the sixth stage. Sheathing is fastened to the ceiling first, then the walls using fasteners such as screws, nails, or furniture brackets. Selecting lighter materials, like chipboard, plywood, lining, or, is preferable. Plaster is not advised because it adds significantly to the overall weight of the structure.

Installing floor insulation is the seventh stage. The mineral wool is inserted into the crate’s cells using the same procedure as previously mentioned. The best option for mounts is to use dowels. Sheathing and film waterproofing are applied after the glue has dried. It’s crucial to keep in mind that walking along the mineral wool lining may cause deformation, so it’s best to cover it with a board until that point.

The final stage is the eighth. It completes finishing tasks by applying sealant to the joints between the walls, floor, and ceiling. Sealant needs to be applied to the joints between the sheets if plywood or chipboard was used for the lining. After that, the room is cosmetically repaired; the walls are painted or adhered to, skirting boards are installed, and so on.

Plywood can be substituted with OSB slabs.

Features of the floor laying of polystyrene foam

The balcony’s insulation has unique properties linked to higher mechanical loads and, as a result, strict specifications for the surface’s strength. Thus, even though the wall insulation process is similar in this instance, there is additional work related to floor alignment (screed). Therefore, the following steps are taken in order to install polystyrene foam on the floor:

• lay a vapor barrier foil film;
• glue the insulation;
• glue the second layer a film for vapor barrier;
• fix a reinforced mesh;
• apply a thin layer of cement screed, wait for its drying;
• Pour the floor with a composition for aligning the thickness of the layer 5-8 cm.

The material must always be placed on a level, high-quality screed.

The balcony’s polystyrene foam insulation falls under the category of ENEGRO and heat-saving projects. There are clear operational benefits to this type of insulation when compared to alternative materials like foam and mineral wool. It’s also simple enough to install with your hands. And you’ll get help with this from this instruction!

This video (https://www.YouTube.COM/Watch?V = 6NQZMAQJ11U) shows how polystyrene is used as insulation for balconies.

Materials Needed	Steps
Polystyrene foam insulation panels	1. Measure the dimensions of the loggia walls.
Adhesive suitable for polystyrene foam	2. Clean the surface of the loggia walls to remove any dirt or debris.
Utility knife	3. Cut the polystyrene foam panels to fit the measured dimensions.
Tape measure	4. Apply adhesive to the back of the foam panels.
Safety goggles	5. Press the panels firmly onto the wall, ensuring they are securely attached.
Protective gloves	6. Repeat the process until all walls are covered with insulation.
Caulk	7. Seal any gaps or joints with caulk to prevent air leakage.
Paint or cladding (optional)	8. Optionally, paint or add cladding for aesthetic purposes.

Polystyrene foam insulation for your loggia can be a cost-effective way to lower energy expenses while improving home comfort. Polystyrene foam effectively traps warmth inside during the colder months and keeps your loggia cooler in the summer by creating a barrier against heat loss, making it a versatile option for any climate.

The lightweight and manageability of polystyrene foam makes it an excellent choice for insulation. In contrast to other materials like mineral wool or fiberglass, polystyrene foam requires less work and specialized tools for installation. This makes it a viable option for do-it-yourselfers or those trying to cut back on installation expenses.

Additionally, because polystyrene foam insulation has outstanding thermal performance, heat transfer between your loggia’s interior and exterior can be greatly reduced. This results in a more comfortable living area as well as a more energy-efficient house, which could eventually save money on heating and cooling costs.

Polystyrene foam insulation for loggias has the added benefit of being moisture- and weather-resistant. Polystyrene foam is an insulator that stays effective in humid environments, unlike traditional materials that break down or lose their effectiveness in damp conditions. This feature helps avoid problems like structural damage and mold growth in addition to guaranteeing long-term performance.

In conclusion, using polystyrene foam insulation for your loggia offers a practical and affordable way to raise the comfort and energy efficiency of your house. Because of its durability, superior thermal performance, and ease of installation, polystyrene foam becomes a sensible option for homeowners looking to improve their living spaces’ insulation while spending less on energy.

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