How to do ventilation in the cellar

A properly ventilated cellar is crucial for keeping a comfortable and energy-efficient house, but it’s something that’s always overlooked. Your home’s foundation is the cellar, and inadequate ventilation can cause a number of issues such as excessive moisture, the growth of mold, and even structural damage. This guide will walk you through a few easy yet efficient ways to make sure your cellar has enough ventilation, so you can live in a more comfortable and useful space.

Prior to discussing particular ventilation methods, it’s important to comprehend why the cellar needs to have adequate airflow. The cellar is more likely than other areas of the house to become damp and stagnant. Moisture buildup from inadequate ventilation can result in mold growth, musty odors, and even the deterioration of stored goods. Furthermore, inadequate ventilation may lead to unhealthy conditions for you and your family as well as poor indoor air quality.

The simplest and most efficient way to ventilate a cellar is by using windows or vents. A natural airflow through the installation of vents near the top and bottom of the cellar facilitates the exchange of fresh outdoor air with stale, humid air. Depending on how your cellar is laid out, you can put vents in the windows or the walls. You can establish a cross-ventilation system that encourages air circulation throughout the room by placing vents in strategic locations.

For more effective airflow control, you might also take into account mechanical ventilation systems in addition to passive ventilation techniques. Stale air can be drawn out of the cellar and replaced with fresh air from the outside with the aid of a ventilation fan. You can choose the best option for your cellar based on its size and layout because these fans come in a variety of sizes and configurations. Particularly useful are mechanical ventilation systems in places with little natural airflow or high relative humidity.

Lastly, before putting ventilation measures in place, it’s critical to take care of any current moisture problems in the cellar. Fixing any leaks or fissures in the foundation or walls can help stop water seepage and lower the chance of mold development. The best humidity levels in the cellar can also be maintained with the use of dehumidifiers or other moisture-absorbing materials, which will increase the efficiency of ventilation efforts.

Air exchange and microclimate of the basement

It is absurd to plan a forced extract in a private home’s basement. The tasks can usually be used to solve the cellar’s natural ventilation problems. In order to set up this kind of air exchange, you must be aware of the elements that influence the basement’s microclimate:

1. Soil temperature at a depth of 1.5-2 m. Depending on the region, this indicator changes from –3 to +10 degrees (in winter). That is, the cellar of the northern and southern regions must be insulated at the construction stage.
2. Cold air is denser and heavier than warm, so it always descends to the floor of the room. Such a movement of flows is called convection.
3. At the same temperature, more humid air is easier than dry and rises upward. That is why the condensate drops hang from the ceiling, and the walls near the floor are practically "sweating".
4. Air humidity depends on the proximity of groundwater and external waterproofing walls. If the insulation work was not carried out during the construction of the basement or the basement or the basement, get ready for the fight against damp.
5. The temperature of the ventilation air supplied to the cellar from the street.

Reference: Water vapor has a relative mass of only 18, compared to the 29 units of air molecules. It is therefore easier the more moisture that one cubic meter contains. As an illustration, in the winter, condensate will instantly form on the ceiling if you open the door to a chilly balcony (see the above photo).

Let’s talk specifically about the vegetable cellar’s ventilation system. We make use of the convection phenomenon to structure the natural circulation of air flows. Plan of action:

1. Choose a ventilation circuit. The task is to make the right hood from the upper zone of the basement and must – to ensure the influx of fresh air.
2. We calculate the air exchange, determine the diameters of the exhaust and supply pipes.
3. We select the pipe material, install ventilation ducts.

If a cellar is built beneath a garage or residential building without an external waterproofing project, it may get severely dented during the winter. These types of storage facilities need to be dried during the summer; we’ll include a list of techniques at the conclusion of the article.

Cellars ventilation schemes

You can utilize one of three schemes to ventilate underground rooms:

• classic system with one exhaust pipe;
• a scheme with two pipes – an influx and an exhaust;
• Forced air exchange.

The basement’s layout, location, and other factors all influence the option that is selected. Basements with a separate exit to the street can use the single air duct system depicted in the picture. How the plan operates during the winter:

1. The temperature underground is always plus (if the basement is built correctly). More warm and wet air rises into the upper zone and goes out along the vertical channel of the hood.
2. Cold air masses take its place – seep through the supply holes in the door (hatch), then lower to the floor of the cellar.
3. As you warm up + moisturizing, the air begins to lose weight, rises and is thrown out again through the pipe.

A crucial aspect. Installing the ventilation system at the opposite wall from the front door is the best location for a single-pipe scheme. This represents the complete update of the room’s air quality.

The two-pipe ventilation system is utilized in cellars beneath private residences, garages, and other residential structures that do not have a separate entrance. All air masses naturally circulate in a similar manner; the influx is the second vertical channel that descends to the floor. Through the supply duct, the chilly outside air is lowered, taking the place of Gaza and heading outside.

There are two ways that the pipes, which are situated in opposing corners of the storage, are expelled:

• in the ground outside the building;
• Right through the roof, as shown in the garage ventilation circuit with a cellar and an observation pit.

Since the supply pipe’s head is in the basement in the first scenario, it is preferable to raise the exhaust shaft to a height of two meters (measured from the basement fence opening). The duct is installed on the roof in the second method if the building is surrounded by other structures and there is nowhere to withdraw the second channel. Above the skate, the extract pipe’s end rises.

Note: Manufacturers of prefabricated concrete or plastic cellars should promptly install two-pipe ventilation. The storage room’s ceiling allows the channels to emerge vertically, and the hatch securely closes.

A single-pipe or two-pipe system is used for forced motivation of active air exchange, and the fan is positioned on the exhaust channel. By using the thermostat to connect the supercharger to the mains, ventilation can be operated automatically. When the temperature falls below the designated threshold, the sensor-equipped device will switch off the fan. Specifics we see in the video:

When it comes to insulation and home heating, having enough ventilation in your cellar is essential to keeping it livable and healthy. In addition to helping to maintain moisture levels and preventing the growth of mold and mildew, proper ventilation also protects your home’s structural integrity. Consider adding fans or vents to encourage air movement, caulking gaps and cracks to keep drafts out, and maintaining a regular maintenance schedule to maintain ideal airflow in your cellar. Giving your cellar’s ventilation top priority will not only make the space more comfortable, but it will also shield your house from future damage.

How to calculate the diameters of the air ducts

In order to manually equip the home cellar ventilation system, you must first ascertain the supply air volume and then the ventilation system’s section. By weighing the vegetables that have been stored, we can determine the amount of tributary:

• For every 100 kg of potatoes, we serve 3.5 m³ of air in 1 hour;
• 100 kg of carrots, onions and other vegetables – 7.5 m³/h.

Remark: If tires and auto spare parts are kept in the garage basement, there is sufficient single air exchange for one hour of ventilation. In other words, the room’s volume and the air mixture consumption are equal.

We use the following formula to calculate the pipe’s cross-sectional area given the amount of supply and exhaust air:

• F is the area of the air duct, expressed in m²;
• L – volume of supplied air, m³/h;
• ʋ – the speed of the flow through the channel, with natural ventilation, is taken equal to 1 m/s, no more;
• 3600 – recalculation coefficient of time units (seconds/hours).

An illustration of a calculation. In the cellar, there are 400 kg of potatoes and 200 kg of other veggies. The influx volume will therefore be 29 m³/h (3.5 x 4 + 7.5 x 2). Find the pipe’s cross section (f = 29 /3600 x 1 = 0.008 m²). The diameter (0.1 m = 100 mm) is found using the area of the circle formula.

Pipes for basement ventilation

PVC channels that have been galvanized, enameled, or covered in plastic are used when installing ventilation systems in apartments and private homes. However, the above options are not appropriate for cellars because enameled steel and PVC are pricey, and the galvanized air ducts rust easily from moisture.

Basement exhaust and support mines are constructed from low-cost, moisture-resistant materials:

• from sewer pipes for internal wiring – gray polypropylene;
• The same, for the external laying – orange polyvinyl chloride;
• Asbestos -cement pipelines.

Furthermore. Feel free to use the farm’s Ø100-150 mm black steel pipe when setting up an extract or influx. The canal’s exterior should be painted twice using any persistent paint, such as the pF or NC brand, and the subterranean portion should be covered with bitumen mastic.

The option made of gray polypropylene sewer pipe ventilation is the most practical and profitable one. The material is inexpensive, lightweight, and impervious to chemical reactions. The availability of pre-made shaped components attached to straight sections of the bell is an additional benefit. Standard clamps are used to secure the duct to the walls.

Sewers outperformed asbestos pipes in terms of cost, but asbestos pipes are less convenient to install. Since there are no shaped parts and the pipelines are heavy, improvised materials will have to be used to make the channel turns. A quick rundown of the different ventilations is provided in the video:

Mounting ventilation installation – practical advice

The first piece of advice relates to selecting an air exchange scheme: if at all feasible, attempt to install a two-pipe system with external channel laying at the building’s base. Reasons:

1. The circuit with one hood is imperfect, since part of the heated wet air is sent to the upper area near the front door. It is necessary to make the output holes, otherwise evaporation will be condensed on the door leaf, drain down and again carried into the cellar with a tributary.
2. The output of the ducts to the roof is the option costly and inconvenient. We"ll have to hammer the ceilings, isolate the roofing, raise the head of the hood over the ridge. If the basement is already built, it’s easier to dig a hole near the outer wall and drill the foundation.

Note: In storage facilities with the upper hole, a one-pipe hood functions well. When heated air masses are gathered beneath a level horizontal ceiling, the ventricaulus’s thrust is preferred by them.

We provide a number of detailed instructions on how to create ventilation using two pipes:

• At the output of the supply channel, it is better to put a knee 90 °, the height above the floor level is a maximum of 20 cm;
• Protect the air intake hole of the influx with a metal mesh from rodents, install the cap on top;
• the height of the supply pipe above the ground is 1 m;
• Be sure to insulate the above -ground section of the exhaust canal, otherwise condensate will form, which will flow back in the cellar;
• The minimum length of the vertical ventilation ventilation is 2 m from the fence hole;
• Cut the end of the exhaust pipe with an umbrella from precipitation.

The variations in altitude among the air duct navigations don’t have a significant impact. In order to create a steady natural thrust, the extract pipe is taken out of the building’s aerodynamic shadow and the supply channel is cut to the lowest height (up to 1 m). Put the traction amplifier (deflector) in place of the umbrella if raising the duct is not possible.

Maintaining a functional and healthy space in your cellar requires proper ventilation. If your cellar doesn’t get enough airflow, it can get musty and damp, which can lead to the growth of mold and mildew. We’ve looked at a number of ways to properly ventilate your cellar in this guide to help you make a room that’s safe and useful for storing things like food, wine, or seasonal items.

Natural ventilation, which involves using vents, windows, or openings to allow fresh air to enter the cellar and stale air to exit, is one important technique we covered. You can generate a natural airflow that helps control humidity levels and keeps moisture from building up by placing vents or windows in strategic ways. For a lot of homeowners, this method works well because it is generally affordable and easy to use.

To improve airflow in your cellar, we also looked into mechanical ventilation options like installing fans or air circulation systems. Larger or more enclosed cellars with restricted natural airflow might benefit greatly from mechanical ventilation. Improved air quality throughout the room can be achieved by using fans to help move air more effectively, lowering the possibility of stagnant air pockets.

It’s important to take insulation into account when installing ventilation in your cellar. The environment in which your stored goods are kept is more stable when there is adequate insulation to minimize heat loss and control temperature swings. You can maximize the overall effectiveness and functionality of your cellar by combining ventilation with efficient insulation techniques.

In the end, the objective is the same whether you go with mechanical or natural ventilation systems: to establish a well-ventilated space that protects your cellar from moisture-related problems. You can have a clean, dry, and well-ventilated cellar for many years to come if you follow the advice in this guide and modify it to fit your unique cellar layout and requirements.

Video on the topic

How to redo the hood in the cellar with your own hands

The correct hood from the cellar, how to use it, and there will be no condensation.

Basement ventilation/ correct output to the street of the tributary and hoods