Electric warm floor for tiles: styling technology

Despite its many benefits, a ceramic tile floor has two significant disadvantages. First of all, we are discussing the surface’s potential for slipping, particularly in the presence of moisture. And once more, in no way can ceramic coating be referred to as warm material. In the winter, it is quite uncomfortable to walk on bare feet or in house shoes, particularly after taking a bath or shower.

Electric heated flooring for style technology tiles

For rooms with a unique, non-slip surface, you can instantly choose a ceramic coating to prevent the first negative moment. The solution to the second issue is also available: an electric heated floor for tiles. Depending on the type of heating system selected, the styling technology of these tiles may vary slightly. Even though installing an electric heated floor is a difficult task, a tidy and conscientious home or apartment owner can easily complete it on their own without the help of a professional.

What are the advantages of an electric warm floor?

One of the two methods for heating a ceramic tile floor surface is to install water circuits or use an electrical heating system that already exists. The comfort of the space can be increased by using both of them as the primary heat source and as supplemental heating sources.

Of course, water warm floors are more efficient to operate; under some circumstances, they can even be linked to the current central heating system. However, compared to any electrical system, the cost of installation and the amount of work involved are incomparably higher. Electric heating also offers several other indisputable benefits:

• Any water heating circuit requires a massive screed. If you add the diameter of the pipes themselves, then the rise of the floor level is very significant, which is far from always permissible in city apartments. Cannot be discounted and the additional loads on the ceilings that arise. But some electric warm floors do not require screed at all.
• The installation of an electric warm floor itself is much easier.
• There are completely absent RU circuits of the coolant of the coolant – the probability of flooding of the lower neighbors is excluded.
• Electric warm floors do not require quite bulky and expensive adjusting equipment. And they are much easier to accurately adjusting.
• No conciliation procedures with utilities are required – the main thing is not to go beyond the allocated limit of the power supply power to the apartment or a country house.

The most comfortable living conditions are produced by electric floor heating; heat rises from a uniformly warmed surface and gradually drops as height increases.

Comfortable temperature distribution when the warm floor is operating as opposed to traditional collector heating or radiators

When ceramic tiles are placed on top of a heating system, they become a large "battery" of thermal energy that provides comfort for walking on and distributes heat throughout the space in a uniform manner.

The cost of an electric heated floor

Electric warm floor

Under ceramic tiles, a variety of warm floor types can be installed. Every one of them has subtle differences in their installation technology. Nonetheless, there are many similarities, particularly with regard to setting up the space and the necessary equipment.

How to prepare for laying a warm electric floor

• The first thing that attention is drawn to is the degree of insulation of the basic base of the floor. If the electric energy goes to the absolutely unnecessary heating of the floor slabs or floor laid down on the ground, then the owners will simply go bankrupt to pay the bills for the consumed kilowatts. Typically, warm floors are laid on the base, which in its structure already contains a layer of thermal insulation – this is especially important for private houses or for apartments where an unheated room is located below. Under favorable conditions, some technologies for the installation of electric heating are allowed to limit themselves to a thin foil thermal insulator .
• The second – the surface of the floor should be repaired. It makes no sense to lay the heating system and then – ceramic tiles if the surface has significant irregularities, cracks or cracks, areas of instability or looseness of the old screed.
• Third – to the room, a power supply line of the required capacity with an obligatory grounding contour should be brought to the place of the planned installation of the thermostat. For it, a separate machine should be provided on a camshaft, and, preferably, protect yourself by installing a protective device – RCD . On the issues of the line wiring, it makes sense to contact a qualified electrician.
• The next question is the purchase of a thermostat with a thermal attemptor. In the vast majority of cases, they are not included in the complex, but without them his work is impossible.

The standard set of electric warm floor mats does not include the temperature controller with sensor.

A thermostat with electromechanical or button control, LED or LCD indication, different design and color performance, etc., can be chosen to suit your preferences.P. All of these gadgets are usually made to fit into a regular socket beneath a switch or socket.

It is imperative to maintain a collection of instruments:

• The laying of a warm floor always implies electrical work. It will be required to cut wires, removal of insulation. Before switching wires in the thermostat, it is advisable to tie the ends – it means that you need a soldering iron and the necessary consumables – solder, flux. It is best to use a construction hairdry. By the way, although it usually includes a certain number of “thermal assessment”, it would be nice to have at least a small own reserve.
• The floor and the wall will need to cut the strokes – for this you need to have a “grinder” with a stone disk and a perforator.
• After laying and switching an electrical circuit, it will be necessary to carry out control measurements – the general conduction of the chain and its resistance – which means that a multimeter is needed. It is also recommended to check the insulation resistance – this is performed by a special device – with a megammeter.

Megommeter (on the left) and multimeter

• General work will also have to: sometimes – this is a filling of screed, and in any case – laying of ceramic tiles. This means that all the necessary tools should be prepared – a mixer (nozzle for a drill) to knead building mixtures and a container for these purposes, spatulas are ordinary and gear, roller rollers and brushes for applying a primer, accessories for marking and control – roulette, ruler, ruler, line. Construction level, marker or pencil, etc.P .

Certain tools will always be needed, while others may vary based on the preferred method of installing a heated floor. We’ll go into more detail about this below.

Warm room of cable type

Types of heating cables for warm floor

We’ll start by thinking about a heated floor with a heating cable. Prior to anything else, the type of cable must be chosen. There are three possible options: single-core, dual-core, and semiconductor matrix.

• One -core option belongs to the category of the most inexpensive. The conductor heats up according to the usual resistant principle, just like a spiral of an iron or heating .

The one-core heating cable’s construction

Although the TS on these cables is minimal, using them is incredibly inconvenient. The primary challenge is that the thermostat installation site is where both of the installation’s "cold" ends should converge. Because it is strictly forbidden to have cable intersections on the floor, this makes laying more difficult and occasionally even less possible.

• Two -core cable in this regard – much more convenient.

Here, the chain is guaranteed to close because there is only one "cold" end and an end clutch, which greatly simplifies the laying process. Both a conductor and both simultaneously can act in various models.

Resistive type cable with two cores

The primary disadvantage of the two cables discussed is that they heat up equally and simultaneously along their whole length, which isn’t always convenient. However, the plan itself does not cover how the heating system operates when there is a break in any heating cable segment.

• The semiconductor self -regulating cable refers to innovative developments.

The semiconductor cable’s self-regulation principle and structure

Here, the only conductors are the metal wires, and the semiconductor matrix that lies in between them is where heating takes place. Furthermore, a semiconductor’s conductive capacity decreases and its energy consumption decreases with increasing temperature in a given region. As a result, there is no chance of the system overheating, and its operating efficiency is rapidly increasing.

A two-core resistive two-core is the best option if you evaluate options from the perspective of "Price – Quality – Eaturability in Installation," as the semiconductor self-regulating cable is still a very costly "pleasure." We’ll talk about it below.

How to calculate the required amount of cable

Planning the cable layout scheme, the thermostat installation location, and the power supply to the power supply always comes first in a work project.

• It is never planned to lay a cable under stationary furniture – for the correct operation of such a system, constant heat transfer with air is required, and in its absence, the cable may overheat and fail.

The approximate configuration of the two-core heating cable

• The indentation from the walls and furniture should be at least 50 mm, and from heating devices (for example, radiators or convectors, heating risers, etc.P .) – for less than 100 mm.
• It is strictly forbidden to plan the laying with the intersection of the cable.
• For an effective healing system, it is customary to focus on the fact that about 70 ÷ 75% of the total area of the room should be closed with the cable.

The step between adjacent loops and the unprofitable length of the cable are the primary planning parameters. The styling area (S), the necessary thermal energy for effective heating (QS), and the specific thermal power of the chosen cable model—which is intended for one meter of its length—must all be taken into account when calculating these values ( QKb ). Where can I find these values?

• S It is easy to find by measuring those areas on which the cable will be laid by calculating and smoking their area.
• Meaning Q s Accept equal:

180 W/m2 if the room is "on the ground" or above an unheated space, and 150 W/m2 if the heated space is accessible from below, if the warm floor serves as the only source of heating.

Should the floor heating be regarded as an extra heat source, these figures will be 130 and 110 W/m², in that order.

• Specific thermal power of the cable QKB , WT/linear meter, is mandatory indicated in the technical documentation of the product.

Two formulas are used to perform the calculation:

The necessary cable length is:

L equals s × qs / qkb.

With the length of the length, you can determine the spacing between the parallel laying loops, which is the first step in laying the cable:

N is equal to 100 × S/L.

A unique calculator that can quickly and precisely calculate the length of the cable and laying step is placed in order to avoid disturbing site visitors who are not able to perform independent calculations:

Warm floor cables are produced in a variety of standardized segments with installed connecting and end couplings; they are not implemented by mettracks. Selecting the closest length from the model range is therefore required.

It is also possible that the estimated length will be longer than the options that are offered for sale if the room has a large area. This will require you to split the floor into two sections, and then calculate each one according to its area. In this case, a thermostat should be installed on each circuit.

Finding the spacing between the turns (the styling step) is still necessary after the cable length has been established.

Once the required computations have been completed, you can begin the practical work by precisely drawing a cable layout scheme that will serve as a guide during the installation process.

The installation process of cable warm floor for tiles

Illustration	Brief description of the operation performed
	It will be worthless to check the completeness of the acquired "warm floor". 1 – packaging; 2 – product passport and installation instructions; 3 – the wrap cable Bay of the required length; 4 – “cold” connecting wire combined with a cable with a connecting coupling; 5 – a corrugated tube for the location of a thermostat with a signal wire in it; 6 – mounting tape for fixing the cable loops on the floor; 7 – Plastic plug for corrugated tubes.
	Additionally purchased a thermostat with a thermal attemptor.
	Having a scaled cable laying scheme before your eyes, you can start work.
	In the selected place with the help of a special crown, a nest for the installations of a socket is cut – a thermostat will be mounted here. Its height above the floor can be any convenient from the point of view of the hosts, but not less than 300 mm. should be provided for the place so that it subsequently never closes with stationary furniture or large household appliances. very often the thermostat is installed near the lighting switch.
	From the finished nest vertically down to the floor level, a strob of a rectangular cross section is cut out, about 20 × 20 mm. It is necessary for laying installation wires and a corrugated tube with a thermal attenter cable. It is advisable to immediately fix two to three wire or other clamps in the stroke – to subsequently collect all the wires and the tube in one bundle.
	The floor is cleaned of debris and dust.
	The priming of the floor of the floor with a deep penetration is carried out. This will disclose the surface, and will provide its good adhesion with a concrete solution of the future screed.
	A roll foil insulation is laid over the entire area of the floor. It will serve as additional thermal insulation and will contribute to the reflection of the heat flow emanating from the working cable, upward, towards the room. foil layer is located outward.
	Neighboring stripes or sheets of insulation are laid close to the water, and the seam between them is glued with metallized tape.
	The next step is the layout and fixation to the floor of the mounting tapes. You can fix them, depending on the type of basic coating, on dowels or just for self -tapping screws. Distance between adjacent parallel ribbons – from 500 to 1000 mm.
	Installation tapes are very convenient when laying out the cable. However, an important remark should be made. It happens that a layer of waterproofing is located close to the surface of the floor base, and violate it with drilling holes under the dowel or screwing self -tapping screws – in no case can not be. can be done as follows – to cover a strong fiberglass reinforcing mesh on the entire surface of the floor. It is easy to tie the cable to it when it is laying out, and in addition – the net will also serve as an additional strengthening of the screed.
	The layout of the cable begins according to the scheme. The first fixation to the mounting bar is near the connecting coupling, so that the length of the “cold” end is enough to the thermostat, without an interference and intersection with the rest of the cable. The “cold” wire itself can be placed along the wall along the wall, laying it between the wall and foil insulation.
	Cable loops are laid in strict accordance with the drawing, in compliance with the calculated step. Special mounts on the mounting bar (bent "antennae") provide reliable fixation. If a reinforcing grid is used, then the cable can be tied with plastic clamps – “ties”.
	The laying of cable fixing in the end clutch ends.
	Next, a thermostat with a signal wire is introduced into the corrugated tube.
	The head of the thermal attempt should reach the end of the corrugated tube. Then the hole of the tube is jammed with a special cap in the kit – to prevent the concrete solution from entering the concrete solution with further work.
	The tube with a thermostat is installed strictly in the middle between the coil of the heating cable, fixed to the mounting strips or reinforcing mesh. starting from the angle between the wall and the floor of the corrugated pipe is laid in a vertical strobe. In this case, the bending radius should not be less than 50 mm – so as not to break the tube and do not squeeze the signal wire. Distance of the sensor from the wall – 500 ÷ 600 mm.
	The editing “cold” end end of the cable is also laid in the same stroke. Sometimes the power supply wires are also placed here. All this is collected in a single bundle, fixed with clamps. Then the stroke can be sealed with a cement-sand solution or a putty mixture.
	Conducting the conductivity of the chain and the level of resistance of the laid cable – it must comply with the data specified in the passport. If possible, the insulation resistance is checked. Then, in accordance with the thermal attemptor circuit, the installation conductors of the heating cable, thermal attemptor and network 220 V are connected to the terminals of the installation conductors of. It is recommended to tie the tips cleaned from isolation before switching. After that, the system is checked – they produce short -term, no more than 1 minute, turning on the power. So the work of both the control panel and the cable itself are checked – its heating should be felt. After checking, the power is completely disconnected. For a complete guarantee, it is better to promote and remove the thermostat again – so that no one can even accidentally turn on the “warm floor” before the start of the system.
	Many manufacturers of underfloor heating require, to comply with the conditions of guarantee, to make an accurate scaled cable laying scheme in the passport. on it, with reference to the specific dimensions of the room, must be shown the staged cable, the location of the end and connecting couplings, thermal attenter and thermal controller.
	To ensure the contact of the future screed with the base of the floor, windows of about 50 × 150 ÷ 200 mm are cut in a foil heater between the turns of the cable. They are usually located in a checkerboard pattern with a distance of about 1000 mm from each other.
	After that, along the perimeter of the room at the junction of the wall and floor, it is recommended to glue the elastic dampfer tape. Next, a system of lighthouses from metal profiles is installed so that the thickness of the screed is from 30 to 50 mm. is prepared for a filling solution, laid out on the floor surface on top of the cable laid ..
	… and then evenly distributed and aligned using the rule. It is important to prevent air cavities – they will sharply reduce the effectiveness of the warm floor and can even lead to local cable overheating.
	The screed should harden and gain strength before the start of further work for at least a week. It is recommended to regularly moisten it with water and close it with plastic wrap.
	After a week, you can go to laying ceramic tiles, after careful priming of the surface. Facing technology is ordinary, but glue must be used that which is designed specifically for warm floors, that is, not afraid of temperature differences. Even after the tile glue is completely hardened, you can’t turn on the heating – you must pass at least 4 weeks from the moment the screed is filled. It is strictly forbidden to use heating to accelerate the solidification of construction solutions. Starting the system should be carried out stepped – on the first day, set, for example, 15 degrees, and then add 5 degrees daily until the calculated temperature reaches the calculated temperature.

Mesh heating mats

Particular heating mats gained a lot of traction. Actually, this is the exact same heating cable—it has just been installed and secured using a specific procedure on a fiberglass grid.

Meser heating mats are incredibly practical for placing

Tiles on these sets are laid more easily and don’t need to be screeded from above; instead, they can be laid directly along the stacked mats for cladding. The tile height on these sets is slightly higher than on cables.

Laying out the entire plan as previously mentioned. When preparing and purchasing a kit, keep in mind that mats are sold with the expectation of a different area of the insulated floor. Their specific heat transfer may differ. Selecting the ideal kit will be aided by comparing these two parameters: the area and the required thermal power.

The cost of heating mats

Heating mat

Such mats cannot be covered by an insulating foil, so consideration should be given to the floor’s thermal insulation beforehand.

The following steps are taken in order to install a warm floor with mesh mats:

Illustration	Brief description of the operation performed
	Complete is checked, the thermostat with a thermal attachment is purchased for installation.
	On the wall in the same way as in the case of a cable, a nest for a jerk and a strobe are marked and cut through and cut. But, in addition to this, the strobe is also marked on the floor. Its size in the section is the same – 20 × 20 mm, length – 600 ÷ 800 mm from the corner.
	At first, the gaps are cut by the “grinder” ..
	… and then concrete can be chosen by a perforator.
	As a result, vertical and horizontal strobes should converge at one point.
	You can immediately, after harvesting, primer and complete the surface, lay a corrugated tube with a thermostat. Placing the sensor in the tube and installing the plug – the same as described above. Pipe is first placed in a horizontal sede and fixed there ..
	… and then fits in the vertical – to the installation site of the thermostat. To avoid crease, turning radius – at least 50 mm.
	After that, the horizontal stroke with a laid pipe can be immediately filled with tile glue to the floor level.
	The layout of mats begins in accordance with the previously compiled scheme. The requirement is the same – the cable should not intersect anywhere. between neighboring parallel stripes of the mat usually leave a distance of at least 50 mm. The first lane should be laid so that the thermal attemptor is in the center of the cable loop – both in its length and width
	If necessary, change the direction of laying, carefully so as not to hurt the cable itself, a fiberglass mesh is cut.
	Matu is given the right direction – and its styling continues.
	How mats are fixed on the floor surface? Products of some manufacturers have a self -adhesive base – they are simply smoothed and pressed to the primed floor surface – such a temporary fixation will be quite enough until the tile is laying. If the mat is ordinary, then the grid and cables can be spotted with silicone thermoclay with a pistol silicone.
	There is another type of such mats – the cable is fixed on elastic mesh tapes. In this case, the edge of the mat is attached to special hooks (they are shown by arrows). These elements should be included in the delivery set – they have a platform with a self -adhesive layer. After fixing the elastic strips on hooks, the mat itself can be stretched in the right direction. This allows you to vary a step between the hinges.
	Such fixers are installed at the beginning and at the end of each mat. In the rest, everything is repeated – the basis can be cut to comply with the cable laying scheme.
	Such mats are good not only because you can change the step of the cable loops – there are more styling possibilities in complex areas. For example, a mat can be stretched diagonally or in the form of a trapezoid.
	After full laying of the mat, control measurements, switching, trial launch are carried out – there are no features here. Then the heating system is completely turned off – and you can immediately proceed to laying ceramic tiles.
	Tile glue is prepared (designed specifically for warm floors). Then the composition of the plots is laid out directly on the laid mat and carefully so as not to damage the cable, distributed by a gear spatula. The thickness of the adhesive layer should be 10 ÷ 12 mm.
	Directly on this layer of glue and ceramic tiles are laid. It is very important to achieve uniformity of distribution of the mixture, especially in the places of cable passage, so as not to leave even the slightest air voids.
	The tile is pressed tightly, compliance with a single plane is controlled using the building level. Movement on the faced floor is allowed after the expiration of the period specified in the instructions of the adhesive composition. However, it is better to start the launch of the warmest floor after 3-4 weeks. Start is carried out in the same way, stepped, with a gradual increase in heating power.

One benefit of this technology is that it eliminates the need to even remove the old tile in order to install a warm floor. It will be sufficient to use an abrasive to improve adhesion, providing the required roughness for adhesion to adhesion, or even just to apply a specific primer to the concrete contact. As a result, you can easily and quickly disassemble and update the ceramic coating in areas like the kitchen or bathroom to give it the appearance and feel of a warm floor.

Details regarding what a swinging mixing unit for a warm floor is might be of interest to you.

Installation of core infrared warm floor for tiles

Infrared core mats are another kind of electric heated floor that is ideal for additional ceramic tile cladding.

Using infrared rod mats is an inventive method

They are two parallel conductive tires with 0 heating rods positioned between them. A specific step composed of a unique material has the ability to absorb an infrared light source and transfer thermal energy across a distance. Since every rod is totally independent, the warm floor system’s overall functionality won’t be compromised if one or more fail.

Additionally, the rods possess the ability to self-regulate, meaning that their energy consumption decreases with increasing temperature. They just "lock" when the limit heating is reached, which results in significant power savings. It is crucial that these core mats can cover the entire space of the room, even if furniture is arranged in a way that prevents them from overheating. Furthermore, changes can be made to the interior in the future without worrying that they will harm the warm floor’s craftsmanship.

The basic concept of infrared rod mat switching

The figure illustrates the basic plan for installing a floor heating system of this kind; the styling technology itself will be discussed in the table below.

The first is the heating rod.

Secondly, conductive tires.

3. Changing the wires.

4- a unique switching device.

Five "cold" wires. either require independent switching or be preinstalled.

Insulation couplings with six ends.

Nine are the network power supply cables.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation performed
	The completeness of the set is traditionally checked: 1 – a rod mat the required length to cover the entire heated floor surface; 2 – Installation instructions and product passport; 3 – Bay of the switching cable; 4 – A corrugated tube with a plug to accommodate a thermal attenter. 5 – a set of crimping terminals – metal cartridges in the heat -assigned shell. 6 – a set of heat -shaped tubes.
	A separate thermostat with a thermostat is purchased separately.
	Another compulsory acquisition is a heat -cutting insulation. , without such a substrate, the rod floor cannot work correctly.
	The surface of the floor is cleaned of debris and dust, subjected to priming, best – twice.
	Preparation of a nest for the thermostat, vertical and horizontal strobe, installing a thermal attenter in a corrugated tube and laying the pipe itself – the same operations as when laying a mesh mat.
	A continuous coating is laid a rolled foil insulation. Joints are fixed with waterproof or foil tape.
	Laying a rod mat begins with the site where the thermostat will be located. The mat rolled out in a straight line between two opposite walls. Speaking from walls – about 100 mm. IMPORTANT – Thermal attemptor should accommodate strictly between the rods and approximately in the center of the width of the mat.
	Now it is required to change the direction to the opposite. For this, a current -tone tire is cut off from the point of turn.
	The incision should be carried out strictly in the center between the rods.
	The match unfolds, and its styling continues. This procedure is preserved until the area is completely covered. Condition -the total length of the mat should not exceed 25 meters.
	So that the stripes of the laid mat do not move during further work, they can be fixed on the floor with tape, first along ..
	… and then across.
	When the mat is laid out and fixed, they proceed to switch the electrical circuit. Cable Bay should be included for this. Its cross section fully corresponds to the consumption of the power of the rod mat.
	First of all, it is necessary to combine the cable cut and spaced ends of the conductive tire. To do this, its end is cleaned from isolation.
	The cleaned conductor is introduced on one side into the connecting sleeve, which is tightly squeezed in this place, ensuring reliable contact.
	Then a segment of the switching wire of the desired length is prepared then. The end of it is cleaned from isolation.
	Immediately put on a thermal tube in the kit. It is still being shifted to the side – it will be required later.
	The cleaned end of the cable is introduced on the other side of the sleeve, where the live tire has already been squeezed. terminal is closed on the second side.
	The squeezed sleeve is heated by the construction hairdryer. Thermal -assembly shell will then tightly fit the places of contact connections.
	This is not all – a heat -shaped tube dressed earlier is approaching the terminal and also warms up with a hairdryer. As a result, the connection receives a very reliable double isolation.
	Then, in exactly the same way, switching is carried out at the second cut end of the tire. This is how the integrity of the chain is ensured. If the mat is laid in three or more stripes – the operation is repeated. In some models, the “cold” ends will have to be connected to Matu and the “cold” ends, which then start to the installation site of the thermal controller.
	The next step is the installation of end insulation couplings at the distant ends of the current tires. For this, thermal tubes are put on them, the ends of which are tightly squeezed after heating, achieving complete sealing of the cut.
	This is followed by checking the circuit, conducting control measurements, switching the thermostat, trial start – about all this was already described above.
	If everything functions normally, the system is completely de -energized, and then proceed to prepare for laying tiles. For this, rectangular or rhomboid windows are cut through the foil of the rods – by analogy with the technology of laying the heating cable.
	This will look like the floor surface before starting tiles.
	One of the windows must definitely come to the temperature sensor.
	On top of the mat you can pour thin, about 20 – 25 mm screed, but it is quite acceptable to immediately put a ceramic tile laying.
	The solution is distributed with a gear spatula with maximum caution, achieving complete uniformity and filling all the voids. tile laying is carried out in the usual way, with constant control of horizontality and thickness of the seams.
	The main condition for the warm floor to work correctly – the total thickness of the layer of tile glue and the ceramic tile itself is about to be approximately 30 mm. LAIGHT OF THE PALL heating system is the same as in cases described above.

It is important to note that infrared film-type electric heated floors are an additional option. In all honesty, a massive board, laminate, linoleum, carpet, or parquet flooring would be better off with an infrared floor heating system.

Infrared heating element on film

Film elements do not mix well with ceramic tiles. First of all, it is challenging to guarantee consistent adherence of all layers—the floor’s base, tile adhesive, and tiles—cutting the windows in a film—just nowhere, and tiny, adequate contact points won’t suffice. Second, no matter what you say, the special operating characteristics of these infrared heaters are greatly diminished by a cement-based layer.

Prices for infrared warm floors

Infrared warm floor

However, masters figure out how to use ceramic tiles and infrared flooring in the "Soyuz." For instance, place rx cm of waterproof drywall sheets on the floor using dated film. Since GIP C with Labo blocks out infrared light, the tile gets a steady, even base and loses less of its IR heating characteristics. You can find out which is better—brick for the furnace—by clicking on the link.

An additional choice is to place reinforcement between the films of a thin IR screed, which will serve as the foundation for tiling. This method is demonstrated effectively in the suggested video:

Video – Planopic infrared floor for ceramic tiles

Afanasyev Evgeny, Chief Editor

The publication’s author September 9, 2015

Yes, of course! The article’s major thesis is as follows: "Electric warm floor systems provide a luxurious and effective way to heat tiled floors, improving comfort and style in homes." These systems, which are especially useful in colder climates, ensure even warmth distribution across the floor surface by using cutting-edge heating technology installed beneath tiles. This eliminates cold spots and creates a cozy atmosphere. The styling technology underlying electric heated floors (F1 and F2) is examined in this article.

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