Electric warm floor for tiles – installation features, useful tips

Do you dislike walking on chilly tile floors in the mornings? Or perhaps you want to heat your house more effectively without using HVAC or conventional radiators exclusively? You only need to consider electric warm floor systems. These cutting-edge heating options, which are made especially for tiles, provide a cozy and economical way to heat your house. We’ll go over the installation features in this post and offer some helpful advice to make sure you get the most out of your electric heated floor.

Although installing electric heated floors beneath your tiles may seem difficult, it can actually be a simple process if you have the right advice. The radiant heat used by electric warm floors directly heats objects and surfaces, in contrast to traditional heating systems that rely on air circulation. As a result, there are no cold spots in the room because the heat is distributed more evenly throughout. Moreover, they won’t take up any extra space in your house because they are installed underneath the tiles.

Prior to beginning the installation process, make sure you have the appropriate kind of electric warm floor system installed. Electric cable systems and electric mat systems are the two primary varieties. Underneath the tiles of an electric cable system are heating cables arranged in a serpentine pattern. However, pre-spaced heating cables woven into a mesh mat are a feature of electric mat systems, which simplify installation even further. When choosing the right system, take your budget, insulation, and room size into account.

For your electric warm floor system to work effectively and last a long time, proper installation is essential. Even though you can do the installation yourself, it’s usually best to hire an expert, particularly if you have no experience installing tiles or doing electrical work. A skilled installer will guarantee that all electrical connections are safe and in compliance with code, and that the heating elements are positioned uniformly underneath the tiles. They can also offer advice on any subfloor adjustments or insulation that may be required to maximize heat retention.

Following installation, there are a few things you should remember to get the most out of your electric heated floor system in terms of performance and efficiency. First things first, think about getting a programmable thermostat, which lets you create customized heating schedules according to your daily schedule. This helps save energy by lowering heating in the rooms when they are not in use, in addition to guaranteeing that your floors are warm when you need them to be. To ensure that any problems are resolved quickly and that your system continues to function properly for many years to come, make sure you routinely inspect and maintain it.

Types of electric warm floor

You need to have an understanding of the different types and features of electrical heating system designs when organizing the installation of a heated floor for tiles.

In total, there are two kinds:

Heating cable that is resistive

Floor warmed by infrared film

The first kind is a heater that releases heat energy as a result of an electric tone’s resistance passing through it. This is how all heating components work, including electric stove spirals. P. A set of carbon emitters laminated in two layers of lavsan film makes up the second type. They heat objects by radiating infrared light. The movie doesn’t get very hot.

When laying tiles, only resistive cables are selected. He works efficiently without losing heat energy and fits the screed perfectly. It should be noted that the tile does not cover the film warm floor. Numerous suggestions for installing the film infrared floor in the screed can be found on the network; however, they are all based on a single inaccurate source.

The infrared film is intended to function beneath floor coverings such as carpet, linoleum, and laminate that do not fit it tightly. Pouring screed directly onto the film will cause the warm floor to overheat and fail quickly. When choosing and designing, this moment needs to be considered.

Two varieties of heating cables are available for purchase:

The cable itself (a length-specific segment laid in a predetermined order)

Cable mats, or glasses rolons with a resistive cable already arranged in a zigzag pattern on them

The first option is installed in rooms of a certain value where a rolled heating mat cannot be laid because it requires more intricate styling. In other situations, heating mats are typically selected because they operate more easily. All that is required is surface preparation, where they are spread out along the length, connected to the control unit, and poured into a screed.

Installation of an electric warm floor for tiles

Features of putting in a heated tile floor

The type of finish flooring will dictate the process for installing an electric warm floor. Two styling options are available when using laminate, carpet, or linoleum: filling in the screed or laying under a sheet flooring without filling the concrete layer. Only the first technique, which involves filling the screed and then installing floor tiles, is appropriate for tiles.

There are multiple stages to the process:

• preparation of the draft floor;
• installation of a control unit;
• The laying of the heat insulator;
• laying and connecting a resistive cable or heating mats;

• filling the screed;
• laying tiles.

The ideal order of steps is provided. Inexperienced users frequently break it, intending to install the control unit as little as possible. This is a major error because the wall where the cables are hidden should be struck before the heat insulator is installed.

Take a closer look at the steps involved in creating a warm floor for tiles:

Preparation

Surface preparation for styling

The preparatory work entails clearing the draft floor’s surface of all upper layers, including coatings (carpet, laminate, or linoleum), boardworms with any lags, and other layers. Consequently, what should be left is a concrete floor slab alone. It is looked over and assessed. All potholes must be sealed, and any protruding objects (such as fastener, pipe, wire, etc.) must be removed.

If any obvious cracks or potholes are discovered, a layer of solution must be applied to seal them. In case there are excessively many flaws, create a black leveling screed. Ignoring this step will result in a heating cable that is constantly under deforming pressure, so it is not necessary. It will eventually cause an emergency, and fixing the heated floor in the screed is a very time-consuming and costly process.

Installation of the control unit

The thermoregulator control unit is installed.

A wall in a pre-selected location is used to install a control unit (thermostat). Selecting an installation location is advised in order to prevent installing excessively long wires.

The size of the device is compact. There are built-in structures as well as those intended for overhead installation. You’ll need to build a nest in the wall for them. Furthermore, a hidden eyeliner of the power cable and the connecting wires for the heating cable must be made. Warm floors simply cannot be included in outlets; instead, you must bring a separate cable from your own RCD from the shield.

Only vertical and horizontal strokes are acceptable. It is not possible to create inclined grooves, as this goes against PUE and SNiP regulations. The distance between the horizontal strobe and the floor slab should not be less than 150 mm. These works are all dusty and produce a lot of trash and concrete fragments. For this reason, you must start right away in order to avoid having to later clean the concrete fragments from in between the heated heating cable’s bends.

The laying of the heat insulator

Installing the heat insulator is the next stage. Buying the necessary quantity of material and applying it firmly to the black floor’s surface are both required. A lot of the network’s sources suggest buying foam. This is a questionable recommendation, though, as Penophol works well for wall insulation but is not suitable for operational loads that reach horizontal planes. Eventually, the material will pass through and the screed will show cracks and failed areas.

Dense foam will be the best choice. It has superior operational qualities and is stronger and more resilient to loads.

Places are firmly placed on the floor, leaving no gaps or cracks. The installation foam is used for sealing if they continue to show up. 15 mm is the minimum layer thickness. It is not possible to decrease the thickness of the insulator; if you do, the warming cable will start to transfer heat energy to the overlap, resulting in wasteful losses.

Laying a heating cable

After installing the heat insulator, move on to the crucial installation step, which involves installing a heating cable. There are two methods to carry out the procedure:

Resting on the fiberglass floor

Installing prefabricated heating mats

The first approach is typically taken when laying a warm floor in areas with lots of equipment, like bathrooms, as there isn’t enough space for mats to lie down. In reasonably large rooms, the second choice is best for installing a warm floor.

Installing heating mats is an easy process. On the surface, the roll is unwound, and bilateral tape is used to periodically fix its position. Neighboring stripes should be separated by at least 10 cm. The placement of the control unit on the wall serves as a guide for the arbitrary choice of laying direction.

The process of installing a resistive cable on the grid is thought to be more difficult. Here, you must first select an appropriate laying plan, keeping in mind the room’s layout and the cable’s length.

Numerous styling schemes exist:

• spiral;
• snail;
• snake;
• Zigzag, etc. D.

The cable must be laid with a gap of roughly 20 to 25 centimeters between each turn. The fiberglass is covered with the turns, which are then secured to it using nylon clamps.

Apart from the cable itself, the temperature sensor needs to be adjusted. In order to use it, a heat insulator nest is cut, and the location is selected so that a resistive cable encircles the device from all sides (rather than from the edge). The motionless position of the sensor and connecting elements is provided by the sensor wire, which is fastened to the heat insulator using tape segments. Certain manufacturers advise inserting a thermostat wire into a corrugated tube that has a heat insulator cut out for the thermostat. In the event of a failure, this technique will replace the temperature sensor.

The temperature sensor and power wires must be connected to the appropriate terminals in order to connect a resistive cable. You should read the instructions carefully in order to carry out the procedure without making any mistakes. After the connection is complete, the heating system must be turned on and all of its modes must be tested. Any malfunctions that are discovered are fixed right away.

Fill the screed

Qualities of the screed filling

The screed is filled following the installation and testing of the heating cable. Its thickness ought to be between 40 and 50 mm, or at least 30 mm above the resistive cable’s top. It is advised to use the screed finished mixture—which can be bought at the store and diluted with the appropriate amount of water right before pouring—for pouring. On the package, the mixture to water ratio is stated. Information needs to be thoroughly examined because certain working conditions might exist.

Prior to applying the material to the walls encircling the room, a 5-mm-thick dumpfer tape is adhered. It is required to offset the screeds’ thermal expansion. To create the most level and horizontal plane possible, the mixture is carefully aligned and poured to the surface.

An electric heated floor can only be used once the screed has fully set. Time is thought to be based on the thickness of the screed; seven days are allotted for every centimeter. In other words, a 5 cm screed will dry in 35 days.

But now is the moment for total drying. It is sufficient to wait for the set by screed of structural strength, which happens about twice as quickly, before doing additional work. Simultaneously, it is advised to tolerate the screed beneath the tile for a little while longer, as the coating has slowed the concrete’s crystallization process considerably and is nearly impermeable to moisture.

Laying tiles

After the screed has dried, the tile is laid. Use of floor (non-wall) tiles with a minimum thickness of 8 mm is required. Porcelain stoneware is the best choice because it complements a warm floor nicely and has a well-balanced set of functional features.

Heating should only be turned on after tile glue has dried and sealed. This will enable the normal mode of drying and maximum strength gain for adhesive and grouting compositions.

In this article, we"ll delve into the installation intricacies and handy tips for electric underfloor heating specifically designed for tiles. Electric warm floors offer a cozy solution for chilly spaces, especially in bathrooms and kitchens. Installing them beneath tiles requires attention to detail to ensure efficient heating and longevity of both the system and the tiles. From preparing the subfloor to selecting the right heating system and thermostat, we"ll guide you through the process step by step. We"ll also share practical tips to optimize energy usage and ensure even heat distribution across your tiled floors. Whether you"re a seasoned DIY enthusiast or seeking professional installation, understanding these features and tips will help you make informed decisions to achieve a warm and comfortable living space.

During the colder months, installing an electric heated floor beneath tiles can significantly improve the comfort of your house. It helps to keep the room at a comfortable temperature in addition to keeping your toes toasty. But it’s imperative that you handle the installation process carefully and meticulously.

First and foremost, being well-prepared is essential. Be sure the subfloor is clear of debris and imperfections, level, and clean before installing the electric heating system. Any anomalies could shorten the warm floor’s lifespan and reduce its effectiveness.

The size of the space, the heating elements’ wattage, and any extra features like programmable thermostats for ideal temperature control should all be taken into account when choosing the best electric warm floor system. It will eventually pay off to invest in a high-quality system that is customized to meet your unique needs.

It’s crucial to install hardware according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Spend some time ensuring that the heating elements are positioned steadily and evenly to prevent hot spots and malfunctions. Make sure that every electrical connection is made safely and in compliance with the building codes in your area.

For the electric heated floor to function well and last a long time, proper maintenance is required after installation. Check the system often for wear or damage, and take quick action to fix any problems you find. When properly maintained, an electric warm floor can last for many years and keep your house toasty warm on the coldest of days.