Why is the circulation pump heating in the heating system: the main reasons and their elimination

Have you ever questioned why the heating system in your house might not be operating as well as it should? The circulation pump may be one frequent offender. This essential part is essential to ensuring that hot water circulates efficiently throughout your heating system, which contributes to the warmth and comfort of your house in the winter.

On the other hand, malfunctioning circulation pumps can result in a number of problems, such as uneven heating and higher energy costs. Maintaining an effective and efficient heating system requires knowing why the circulation pump might be having problems and knowing how to fix them.

A heating system’s circulation pump may malfunction for a number of typical reasons. Air that gets trapped in the system is one of the most common causes. Air that gets trapped in the pump can hinder its ability to circulate water, which can reduce its efficiency and possibly cause damage to the pump.

A buildup of silt or debris in the pump or heating system pipes is another frequent problem. Sediment buildup over time can impede water flow, making the pump work harder than necessary and decreasing its efficiency. Your heating system can remain in good operating order and avoid this accumulation with regular maintenance and cleaning.

The circulation pump might just be old or worn out in certain situations. Pumps are subject to normal wear and tear over time, just like any other mechanical component. To avoid more issues and increase the effectiveness of your heating system, you should think about replacing your pump if it is old or exhibiting wear.

Fortunately, with the right upkeep and troubleshooting, a lot of circulation pump problems in heating systems are easily resolved. You can help avoid issues and keep your house warm and cozy throughout the winter by routinely checking for trapped air, cleaning the system, and making sure the pump is operating properly.

The pump device

The majority of gas boiler designs employ an effective circulation unit model. Each solid fuel, coal, and wood option requires a different selection and calculation of pumping circulation equipment.

Pumps come in a wide variety of models and brands. Nearly all manufacturers of heating equipment either make their own pumps or use goods from well-known brands like Wilo Navien Duca Erco. Two things bind them all together:

1. They perform the same function, have almost the same parameters and sizes.
2. The circulation pumps are arranged according to the same scheme – centrifugal, with a wet or dry rotor.

Only the shaft seal and rotation speed regulation can differ. In the heating system, the same pump can operate in multiple ways. It offers the required water consumption and pressure at the same time.

A circulation pump is actually an asynchronous engine with a cast aluminum rotor mounted inside the impeller case.

A functional wheel-wing is affixed with a snail lid. You can have the wheel open or closed.

Mounted on the case in additional boxing are the launch relay and the working capacitor.

Water is thrown into the snail and travels via the pressure pipe of the duct sensor to the heat exchanger as a result of the wheel and impeller inside the snail rotating. The shaft and bearings are sealed; there are no rubbing details. There’s hardly anything to be happy about. As a result, if the circulation pump is warming up, it is operating in non-calculated mode and is under extra load.

In a heating system, the circulation pump plays a crucial role in moving hot water around the house. But sometimes, it can encounter problems, leading to reduced efficiency or even breakdowns. Understanding why the circulation pump heats up is essential for maintaining a cozy home. One common reason is airlock, where trapped air blocks the flow of water, causing the pump to work harder. Another culprit could be debris or sludge buildup, hindering smooth circulation. Additionally, incorrect pump speed settings or issues with the system"s balance can strain the pump. Fortunately, these issues can often be resolved with simple solutions like bleeding air from the system, flushing out debris, or adjusting pump settings. Regular maintenance and vigilance can keep the circulation pump running smoothly, ensuring your home stays warm and comfortable throughout the seasons.

The main causes of heating

Sometimes the running portion of the "wheel-ultake" and an electric motor will warm up for reasons that are hard to see with the naked eye. Indirect signs are the only way to draw the conclusion. is heated as a result of water flow and part friction, as well as the thermal dispersion of electric energy.

There are just four primary causes:

1. Incorrect connection.
2. Insufficient power voltage or incorrect capacitor replacement.
3. Extraneous objects, traffic jams, pollution in the heating system, the flow of the contour.

Any pump engine will warm up when it is under load. The maximum temperature of circulation units in floor intra-domestic heating systems with a metal (cast iron or aluminum) case is 70 °C, and the maximum coolant temperature is 90 °C.

Apartment wall boiler light circulation pumps are constructed with a plastic housing and are heated to a maximum of 40 to 50 °C, with the pumped water remaining roughly at the same temperature.

The primary heat source for household circulation pumps, the asynchronous engine winding, is designed to maximize efficiency at a stable voltage of 220-230 V and a specific rotation. Any departure from the ideal "corridor" in terms of turnover (pressure) or voltage results in a significant drop in efficiency, the dispersion of electric energy as heat, and heating of the circulation pump.

Not enough voltage on the network

Theoretically, altering the supply voltage on the windings can change the asynchronous engine’s productivity (revolution). However, because of how hot the engine is, this method is not used. As a result, in the event that the network voltage drops significantly, the circulation pump will become extremely hot and unable to provide the necessary pressure.

The water pump is incorrectly mounted

Installing a circulation apparatus in a gas double-circuit heating boiler is nearly impossible. An additional consideration is the installation of an external pump to accelerate the coolant’s natural circulation along the contour.

In two scenarios, the pump unit will heat up:

1. If the engine shaft and the rotation axis of the working wheel are located at an angle to the horizon line. To exclude losses on heat dispersion, the entrance inside the working wheel of the circulation pump should be horizontal. Ideally, this should be a straight pipe section located horizontally.
2. The pump is installed on the hot pipe of the boiler (at the output of the heat exchanger).

Up to 10% of the overheated steam dissolves in an outgoing water stream heated to 80–90°C. The coolant boils, as the name suggests. The bubbles collapse into the liquid when the circulation pump is operating, releasing a lot of heat inside the snail-shaped pump. The pump bearings, shaft, and working wheel are all extremely hot.

Consequently, the pump unit is located on the boiler’s cold side or, like gas wall models, in front of the heat exchanger’s entrance. The pump won’t overheat until then.

Blockage in the heating system with a foreign body

Lubrication, ward, pacli, and fum tanning are examples of waste materials that eventually find their way into the filter-grinzer’srunningsection. Furthermore, the working wheel is not particularly afraid of the mud cork.

The likelihood of jamming is highest when the subject is solid. For instance, stones left behind during the assembly of heating systems by dishonest locksmiths. There is then a chance of jamming. However, the impeller is typically just completely destroyed by the blow. Garbage with small blades is broken into powder.

Even worse, if foreign objects gathered on the filter-gryazyvik, the pipes’ cross-section would become blocked. The contour has very little remaining capacity. In this case, the circulation pump will be used to pump a small amount of water into the snail and case. Not much seepage into the contour will occur.

Both the water and the circulation pump’s housing will warm up. We refer to this process as hydrodynamic heating. It is so potent that it can boil even somewhat warm return water that falls into a functional pump. The motor’s winding, body, and pipes will all get warm.

Insufficient pressure

There is one significant benefit that centrifugal pumps lack. Pressure is required at the pump’s entrance for the working wheel to operate steadily. If it’s not enough, the water starts to boil and form bubbles on the shoulder blades. We refer to this as cavitation. In addition, a significant amount of heat is released, causing the circulation pump to heat up regardless of how well the heating circuit and bearings are cleaned. In this instance, it will be impossible to see any external heating sources. Cavitation can only be caused by a low rumble and rapid blade wear.

The only way to solve the issue is to lengthen the pipes’ passageway while reducing the number of cranes, valves, and filters—reinforcements that cause hydraulic pressure to be released. The pump won’t overheat as a result of the increased water pressure at the entrance.

Lack of lubrication of bearings

Any electric motor-driven engine or circulation pump that runs on "dry" bearings generates a lot of heat. The only way to salvage the situation is to lubricate a clip sufficiently.

Strong pumping machines have unique access mechanisms, such as butter, hatches, and detachable lids, that make it easy to lubricate the bearings.

But you have to be careful because if you use the wrong kind of lubricant, the pump will overheat. It is true that the greatest heat release occurs from bearings.

In their whole service life, some models used on double-circuit boilers only require a single lubrication. Yet, sliding bearings (bushings) are mostly used in their installation. It is not possible to install other options.

Marriage

Typically, malfunctioning devices are primarily found in the engine winding or condenser. In this instance, even under ideal circumstances, the pump warms up while operating. The electric motor’s insulation is very thin because it was put together in the PRC or India. In the event that even a tiny bit of moisture penetrates the motor, it will initially heat up before burning out. This typically occurs when there are significant network voltage surges.

In the body and snail, marriage can manifest as influxes and rough spots. The inner surface of the circulation electric pump needs to be nearly polished and smooth in order to prevent baking. If not, the case warms up, the pressure drops, and losses rise by an order of magnitude.

How to fix heating

The first and most crucial step is to clean the pipes and turn off the heating circuit’s valves. The size of is replaced by cranes having a small passing cross section. Discard all of the check valves and install regular ball valves on bypasses in their place. By doing this, hydraulic losses will be decreased and hydraulic pressure at the circulation pump’s entrance will be increased.

The pump then needs to be moved from the upper pipe—which is straight—to the lower return. If there’s nowhere to put it, weld another knee. This will lessen the engine’s thermal load as well as the possibility of heat exchanger fabric damage in the event of an unexpected power outage.

Select a model with a power margin of at least 15% to prevent overheating of the circulation pump. The electric motor in question is twice as big but has a marginally higher loss. As a result, heat is released into the air more effectively, preventing the pump from overheating.

Knowing why your heating system’s circulation pump might be acting up is essential to keeping your house comfortable and functional. Air that has become trapped in the system is a common culprit. The buildup of air can interfere with the water’s flow through the pipes, making the pump work harder. In order to address this, releasing trapped air and ensuring adequate ventilation can help restore smooth circulation through radiator bleeding.

DUST and DEBRIS accumulating on the pump’s internal components can also cause problems. Sediments can build up inside the pump and the pipes over time, making it more difficult for the device to move water efficiently. Frequent maintenance can stop this buildup and increase the lifespan of your circulation pump. Examples of this maintenance include filter installation and system flushing.

An equally important, though less obvious, factor is incorrect pump sizing. The heating system will struggle to circulate water efficiently if the pump is too small, which could result in insufficient heating in some parts of the house. On the other hand, an oversized pump may use too much energy and break down too soon. During installation or upgrade, making sure the pump is the right size can maximize the system’s efficiency and performance.

Circulation pump malfunctions can also be caused by electrical problems. Damaged parts, blown fuses, or bad wiring can interfere with the pump’s functionality or even be dangerous. Frequent inspections by trained experts can help find and fix any electrical issues quickly, guaranteeing the dependable and safe operation of your heating system.

All things considered, being aware of the causes of circulation pump problems enables homeowners to maintain their heating systems proactively. You can maximize energy efficiency and lower the likelihood of expensive repairs while ensuring that your home stays comfortably warm during the winter months by taking care of air accumulation, debris buildup, sizing disparities, and electrical problems.

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