Appropriate insulation is essential for keeping your house cool in the summer and warm in the winter. The roof is one area that is frequently disregarded. Your roof regulates the temperature inside your home, so keeping it insulated can save you a lot of money on energy bills and improve comfort. Because of its longevity and efficacy, polyurethane foam is a commonly used material for roof insulation.
Using liquid foam that is sprayed onto the underside of the roof, polyurethane foam insulation forms a seamless layer of insulation by expanding to fill in gaps, cracks, and voids. This technique improves your home’s overall energy efficiency by offering superior thermal insulation as well as functioning as a barrier against moisture and air infiltration.
So, how precisely does the polyurethane foam insulation process for your roof operate? To better understand the procedure, let’s dissect it into a step-by-step plan. By taking these precautions, you can guarantee that your roof is adequately insulated, which will reduce energy costs and keep your house comfortable all year round.
Preparation is the first step in the procedure. The roof surface needs to be clear of any debris or loose materials, dry, and clean before applying polyurethane foam. Cleaning the roof and performing any required repairs could be part of this to make sure the foam adheres to a smooth and even surface.
Applying the polyurethane foam is the next step after the roof has been prepped. Usually, specialized equipment is used to spray the foam onto the roof’s surface. Upon contact, the foam rapidly expands to fill in voids and form a continuous layer of insulation. For the best insulating performance, the foam must be applied uniformly.
Step | Description |
1 | Prepare the roof surface by cleaning it thoroughly and removing any debris. |
2 | Apply a primer to the roof to ensure proper adhesion of the polyurethane foam. |
3 | Mix the polyurethane foam components according to the manufacturer"s instructions. |
4 | Using a sprayer, apply the polyurethane foam evenly across the roof surface. |
5 | Allow the foam to expand and cure according to the specified time. |
6 | Inspect the roof to ensure complete coverage and proper thickness of the foam. |
7 | Trim any excess foam and apply a protective coating or membrane over the insulation for durability. |
- How to insulate the roof with polyurethane foam at the construction stage
- Necessary materials and tools
- The thickness of the applied layer
- The density of the insulation
- Thermal insulation of the roof of PPU: your benefits, our efforts
- How foam is the roof?
- Restrictions on the use of material
- Wall pie
- High -quality insulation of the roof of polyurethane foam – secrets and nuances of competent roof insulation
- Foam and polyurethane foam – what are the differences?
- Types of polyurethane foam
- Alternative types of insulation for roofs
- DIY
- Installation of the crate and applying the foam with your own hands
- Characteristics
- Thermal conductivity
- Density
- Life time
- Adhesion
- Advantages and disadvantages of this type of insulation
- Advantages
- Minuses
- House insulation: step -by -step instruction
- Alternative types of insulation for roofs
- How to prepare the attic from the inside for insulation with foam
- DIY
- Pros and cons of the attic insulation with foam
- PPU roof insulation technology
- Video on the topic
- PPU. Poliuretan foam deception. How negligent performers deceive the client.
- Warming of the roof of PPU . Thermal insulation of PPU . Warming of PPU ceilings . Polyuerean foam is soft.
- Preparation of the attic for insulation of PPU (polyurethane foam)
- Insulation of PPU. I threw the stone cotton wool and flooded all Ecotermix. Everything is according to the mind
- 3 quality factors. Client Review after 3 years. PPU specialist without mask and overalls
- Warming with polyurethane foam (spraying PPU) // Forumhouse
- What can not be done after insulation with polyurethane foam!
How to insulate the roof with polyurethane foam at the construction stage
The primary issue with PPUs is that they are hard to warm on their own because they need highly specialized equipment to prepare the mixture and are only used in insulated areas.
Insulation is done in the following ways while the roofing cake is being assembled:
The rafter system is assembled according to the planned project, using the necessary materials without changes. The next step in the roof is a waterproofing layer (films, membranes and other selected types). Then a crate with a counterparty is prepared, and the roof is overlapped with a flooring. A crate from steel profiles, or wooden bars is prepared. The thickness of the frame must correspond to the planned thickness of the insulation layer (for example, for the attic this value is about 150-200 mm). When the base is ready, proceed to applying polyurethane foam with preliminary preparation of the mixture in containers. When spraying, the layer “lead” from the bottom up without haste, so that the composition penetrates all the cracks, filling all the voids. If it is necessary after applying the first ball of the coating, it is repeated, increasing the necessary thickness. After polymerization (solidification), the mixture, the protruding excesses are cut off, and the subsequent interior decoration of the attic is carried out.
You have the option of applying plaster directly to the frozen polyurethane foam for interior decoration. However, preliminary reinforcement must also be used, along with a layer of plaster made of cement and sand and a metal mesh. Subsequently, any mixture can have an equal surface. Overlapping PPU plates with OSB or drywall and adding more finish is a quicker alternative, though.
The algorithm is slightly different when warming the operated roofs using a polyurethane.
Necessary materials and tools
You must buy a set of tools in addition to the parts in order to insulate the PPU’s roof. Simultaneously, one kind of equipment is required for hard polyurethane foam and another for one-component foam.
It is possible to purchase professional or semi-professional equipment for hard polyurethane insulation. The expert kit consists of:
- Polyol – poured into a metal barrel with a volume of 50 or 100 liters. On the container there is a large letter “A”;
- Polyizoctions – in the same barrel, but of a different color. The designation of the component is “B”;
- Compressor station. Buying is very expensive, even if you cooperate with a neighbor or friend. Therefore, only rent;
Expert setup for PPU insulation.
- connecting hoses;
- Pistol-pistol;
- nozzles for a gun;
- water in a bucket;
- antipyrene;
- lubricant.
The compressor station is not necessary if a semi-professional PPU spraying kit is purchased because the parts are supplied in high pressure cylinders. With the exception of the water, the rest of the set is identical; neither a disposable set nor a pistol wash are included.
Semi-professional (disposable) set for polyurethane foam insulation.
The following supplies are needed for one-component insulation:
- spray cans with liquid polyurethane foam;
- Pistol-pistol;
- vapor barrier film (type B);
- windproof membrane (type A);
- water sprayer;
- pistol cleaner (cylinder with water under pressure);
- antipyrene;
- water.
Furthermore, personal protective equipment will be necessary in every situation:
- costume;
- glasses;
- respirator;
- gloves.
The thickness of the applied layer
Applying a thermo-insulating layer that is between 60 and 70 mm thick is sufficient to insulate the roof. But with that level of precision, it won’t be effective to spray the whole surface. Consequently, experts recommend operating between 50 and 100 mm, where 50 mm is the thermal layer’s minimum thickness and 100 mm is its maximum.
The density of the insulation
Every pistol has a bolt or valve that can be adjusted to allow for the application of a sprayed layer with a specific density. The ideal value of this indicator for the roof is 40 kg/m3.
For both comfort and energy efficiency, you must make sure your house stays cool in the summer and warm in the winter. Using polyurethane foam to insulate your roof is one efficient way. This insulation process, which consists of a few easy steps, can greatly enhance the thermal performance of your house. A seamless barrier that stops heat gain in the summer and loss in the winter is created by adding polyurethane foam to your roof, improving indoor comfort and reducing energy costs. You can improve the insulation and energy efficiency of your home by adding polyurethane foam insulation to your roof with the help of this step-by-step guide.
Thermal insulation of the roof of PPU: your benefits, our efforts
Building companies: PPU’s roof thermal insulation and newly constructed or reconstructed object roof waterproofing in accordance with your or our turnkey project. What you’re receiving
- reduction in construction terms;
- The warranty blocks the liability period of the developer (work contractor).
Owners of manufacturing plants: insulation for an industrial building’s roof. What you’re receiving
- thermal insulation of roofs in any condition, the ability to postpone the replacement of the existing roofing;
- work without violating the regime of the enterprise.
Insulating apartment roofs, public buildings, and administrative buildings is a responsibility of managing companies, housing and communal services organizations, and municipalities. What you’re receiving
- Guaranteed fulfillment of the requirements of the Federal Law N 261-ФЗ “On Energy Saving and on Improving Energy Efficiency …”;
- “Minimum effect of presence” during work – no concern for residents, employees of organizations, buyers, etc.D.
How foam is the roof?
The roof can be responsible for up to 50% of the overall heat loss. Foam roof insulation is commonly used to lower heating costs and create a cozy atmosphere within the home. Among their many benefits are their excellent heat-saving capabilities and ability to shield surrounding areas and building structures from excessive humidity. If you have access to specialized equipment, you can apply insulation with just your hands.
Restrictions on the use of material
Polyethylene membranes and films do not lend themselves well to the adhesion of polyuretan foam. For this reason, applying it to such surfaces is not advised. But even if you did this kind of work, the material eventually separates from the base because there isn’t much adherence to the surface.
- Given the low degree of adhesion to polyethylene surfaces, they should be used to cover the treated surface, thereby preserving it in integrity and excluding the possibility of sticking to polyurethane foam.
- The temperature of the insulation in the cylinder before application should be from 18 to 20 degrees. These are perfect temperature conditions.
- The surface that is subject to processing should be more than 5 degrees of heat. All other parameters are described in the instructions for the material used.
- The consumption of this insulation with a thickness of 5 cm is 1 cylinder per 1 square meter.
Wall pie
The mechanism of the frame house’s wall "pie":
- interior decoration;
- vapor barrier layer;
- insulation;
- frame stand;
- windproof layer;
- transverse crate;
- vertical crate;
- External finish.
If you want to insulate the building from the inside using thermal insulation, you will need to complete the work in phases. Among the most important things to watch out for is where to put the vapor barrier film in the heat-insulating "pie" correctly.
Steamproofing materials include:
- reflecting film;
- diffusion membrane;
- steam -condensate film.
One crucial consideration when installing vapor barrier material is that it needs to be placed from the side of the room on top of the insulation. Vapor barrier is not necessary if mounting foam is going to be used to insulate the wall.
High -quality insulation of the roof of polyurethane foam – secrets and nuances of competent roof insulation
The process of installing roof insulation converts an attic space from non-residential to residential use automatically. Simultaneously, the housing area grows by nearly the entire floor, and this growth should not be disregarded. The attic roof’s insulation will make it easier for you to build another home with less work.
Other benefits of insulating a roof include preventing heating during the winter, which prevents icicles and ice from forming, as well as snow accumulation from the roof on warmer days. As such, the process is both required and beneficial. This article goes into great detail regarding independent roof insulation.
Polyurethane foam is rightfully regarded as one of the most efficient heaters (PPU).
Foam and polyurethane foam – what are the differences?
First of all, the chemical makeup and mechanical characteristics of these two materials differ from one another. The most noticeable distinction between the foam and PPU will be in their levels of hardness.
Additionally, polyurethane foam is elastic, meaning it can return to its original shape following relief. The use of these two materials is separated by their dissimilar mechanical properties, despite their relatively similar heat-conducting, noise-absorbing, and other characteristics.
Foam is less expensive and suitable for usage in areas where it won’t be subjected to physical strain. Furthermore, in certain situations, foam’s inherent stiffness is a benefit that makes installation much easier.
PPU is a material that comes in a variety of forms and densities, giving rise to numerous subspecies with unique properties. Almost total resistance to water is the primary benefit shared by all varieties and is the biggest advantage for heaters.
Types of polyurethane foam
Polyurethane foam: a kind of plastic made of two primary parts. When these constituents react, a material is produced whose properties vary depending on the proportions of the original substances. Differentiate between soft and hard PPU varieties, which have densities of 5–40 kg/m3 and 35–80 kg/m3, respectively.
The wide range of species led to the material’s widespread use in everything from insulation in building to furniture (Khvon is a well-known brand). The ability to spray a material directly at the point of use, avoiding the steps of manufacture, storage, transportation, installation, fitting, etc., is one of its most beneficial features that is actively employed in industry.
PPU as a heater stands out in this regard since it can be applied directly to the surface to be treated almost entirely without the need for preparatory steps. This creates a very effective layer that retains heat and is resistant to moisture, alterations over time, interactions with living things, and swelling.
Alternative types of insulation for roofs
PPUs are not the only devices used:
- Styrofoam.
- Minvata.
- Glass wool.
- Ecowata.
- Izover.
- Ceramzit.
- Cellulose, etc.D.
Although there is a long list of insulation types that can be used on roofs, only a few are actually used: mineral wool, isuver, ecowata, and a few other types. The unsatisfactory characteristics of several materials and their prices are the reasons behind this.
For instance, it is unacceptable to use the ability to absorb water as insulation because it eliminates all thermal conductivity. Glass wools, for instance, have these issues. Furthermore, a variety of materials are coded, which is why the layer’s thickness varies and the number of indicators is decreased.
If the choice is limited, you can generally use any insulation as long as it provides reliable protection against water vapor or spray. Just be aware of its advantages and disadvantages and consider them when installing.
DIY
Liquid polyurethane foam insulation is a nearly ideal choice for insulation nowadays. Although insulation technology is relatively straightforward, there are many subtleties that we covered in this article.
There are specific sets available for PPU spraying that include two containers containing the original reagents, which are mixed right there in the working head during the spraying process.
There is no other way to mix the reaction because it happens so quickly.
There are no complicated operations involved in the surface preparation process. Cleaning is only required for debris removal, dusting, and drying when needed. Since the material’s surface is a great insulator and is unaffected by water vapor or spray, there is no need to cut off the insulating membranes beforehand.
Polyurethane foam (PPU) is used for roof insulation. It is applied between the rafters and is done from the inside. During the reaction process, the material expands and gas bubbles form within it, providing the necessary heat-insulating capacity. PPU expands at the same time, densely filling the entire area and plugging all gaps and openings to form a hermetic layer.
This kind of material consistently protects the surface from the cold bridges that lead to the formation of condensation. Because every processed area will be dry, the rafters and roofing material won’t corrode or decay.
All that’s left to do is cover the entire treated area with leaf materials, such as plywood or chipboard, and decorate the room aesthetically after the PPU has been sprayed and allowed to harden.
A semi-professional PPU spraying set.
Spraying PPU between the rafters will help to carefully seal off all gaps and crevices.
PPU that shoots itself
Installation of the crate and applying the foam with your own hands
The aluminum profile with vertical rows needs to be screwed to the walls and ceiling. Next, horizontal jumpers are used to reinforce the crate (step 0.5 meters). Remember to secure the profile around the doorway’s perimeter.
Pipes and communications must be sealed with a film to prevent staining.
Guidelines for insulating cylinders with foam:
- First of all, you need to take care of safety precautions.
- Then you need to spray a small amount of car silicone lubricant on the mounting gun.
- Next, you need to insert the spray can on the gun and tighten it densely.
- Now you can apply the installation foam to the right place.
- The spray can be removed from the gun and clean it (gun) with a special composition.
- If the foam is not spent in full, you need to rinse the cleaner and the valve located on the cylinder.
Putting foam on the wall’s surface
Characteristics
The qualities of the content are not clear at all.
Thermal conductivity
In their product advertisements, vendors highlight the extremely low heat conductivity of PPU. 0.017 W/(m × ° K) is an uncommon but possible coefficient; more frequently, 0.020–0.022 W/(m × ° K). However, this is from the fantasy genre. An indicator of thermal conductivity of 0.022 W/(m × ° K) is rarely obtained, even in a laboratory where all conditions for the quality of the ingredients and their recipe can be met.
Only when R141B freon is used as a foaming agent—which is illegal in Europe and is therefore not produced—are close values obtained. When additional foaming agents are used, the coefficient value rises, and as a result, heat-insulating layers with thermal conductivities of 0.028 W/(M × ° K) are regarded as high-quality in European countries.
The values in Russia range from 0.030 to 0.035 W/(m × ° K); the exact value will depend on the performers’ experience.
But customers shouldn’t be angry. The insulation’s actual thermal conductivity is respectable even in the event of a technological lapse, as it is among the best and on par with basalt wool.
Density
The bend (fragility), the weight load on the structure, and the thermal insulation qualities all affect the heater’s strength.
Two-component, closed PPU cells can be obtained in three groups, each with a different density.
- 1 group. Low density-28-32 kg/m3. The main scope of the ceilings and walls from the inside of the room, on which the material is applied with a thin layer. Thermal conductivity coefficient from 0.028 to 0.032 W/(m × ° K). The vapor permeability at the wood level is 0.05 mg/(m*h*PA), which allows, though conditionally, after detailed calculations, to use PPU to warm the walls of wooden houses (about the problem just below).
- 2 group. Average density-32-40 kg/m3. A classic representative of the species. The components are sold separately, in cylinders. Used to warm all structural elements of the building. Has the lowest percentage of moisture absorption among all types of insulation.
- 3 group. High density-40-80 kg/m3. It is theoretically possible to achieve such density using portable equipment, but practically unrealizable. It is used in places with a high mechanical load on the thermal insulation layer, but only after special surface processing, which experts call the reservation.
Life time
PPU producers believe that their goods are long-lasting, with a 30- to 50-year service life. The experience of using this insulation in the USA and Europe confirms these numbers. However, after 5–6 years of operation, the insulation on the facades of multi-story buildings in Russia started to fall off in layers during the early years of the novelty’s use.
Initially, poor PPU adhesion to wall material was thought to be the source of evil. When the delay became severe, they started to investigate the issue thoroughly and looked to Western expertise. It transpired that sunlight, on an entirely other plane, was the cause. The substance is susceptible to UV destruction, or as scientists would say, it does not withstand UV irradiation. The aging rate in this instance is roughly 1 mm annually.
The sun is polyurethane foam’s worst enemy.
The material can be preserved for up to 30 years when the facade is open by simply coloring the insulation layer with paint or mastic and steaming it. There is absolutely no need to be concerned about the safety of the insulation if the insulated facade is completed with porcelain tiles or siding.
Adhesion
With the exception of plastic film, foamed polyurethane adheres to all types of building materials with exceptional strength. For instance, you will need to exert at least 2.5 kg/cm2 of force to remove a polymerized heater from concrete, and 1.5 kg/m2 to remove a steel heater. These are incredibly large figures. It makes sense why the best polyurethane foundation adhesives exist. However, this kind of adherence is only achievable if the insulation was sprayed onto a spotless, dry surface.
Because it has little bending strength, the insulation on whitewashing and "baking" plaster will not hold and will come off with light mechanical loads.
Advantages and disadvantages of this type of insulation
Expert opinions differ, so make an effort to draw a line and weigh all the advantages and disadvantages.
Advantages
- The porous structure prevents the accumulation of steam inside the penoizol.
- Significant service life – from 50 to 60 years.
- Prevents the settlement of microbes and rodents, does not rot.
- Not subject to spontaneous fire.
- Racks to dangerous influences of the external environment.
- The possibility of fast installation.
- Does not emit toxic substances after hardening.
- Warming can be done with your own hands.
Minuses
- Drinks for a long time. The complete drying of the not too thick layer lasts at least two days.
- During polymerization, harmful formaldehyde is released.
- Poorly adhes with dirty surfaces.
- If necessary, dismantling the coating is very difficult.
- In the cold season, work with this material is very complicated.
House insulation: step -by -step instruction
You’ll need the following to insulate the roof and walls of the house:
- mounting foam in the cylinder of the desired volume;
- water to moisturize the surface during insulation;
- a proper gun;
- protective equipment for insulation;
- Foam cleaner.
When applying the mounting foam, it should be between 18 and 20 degrees in temperature. The sealant should be sprayed on a surface that is at least 5 degrees. The manufacturer has marked the cylinder with the mounting foam’s properties.
Detailed instructions for using mounting foam to insulate interior walls:
- Install the balloon and thoroughly mix the contents of the mounting foam.
- After that we put on protective equipment.
- Prepare the surface for the procedure, moisturize it with a small amount of water. Water improves adhesion and accelerates the process of hardening.
- Install the adjusting screw to the maximum position.
- The nozzle should be at a distance of 35-40 centimeters from the surface.
- We apply the installation foam by pressing the trigger.
- After spraying, we moisturize slightly with water for accelerated polymerization.
- Primary polymerization will occur after 30-40 minutes. After that, you can apply a second layer.
- When spraying, the polymer comes out only with the vertical position of the cylinder. To solve complex problems, you can use improvised methods from PVC pipe or buy a special nozzle with an angle of 45%, which transfers the torch to a vertical position. The gun will not need to be tilt.
- To achieve tightness during insulation, there can be a small one layer, so after the primary polymerization, another layer may be required. The second layer is an opportunity to smooth out irregularities and eliminate defects.
- To reduce the combustibility class, you can use the fire retardant composition. It must be applied immediately after spraying, when the foam is still "breathing". Special equipment is sprayed through a regular spray gun.
Keep in mind that fixing a house’s inadequate thermal insulation is more challenging. It is crucial to confirm that the previously heated area was not covered with films. There won’t be any adhesion when applying installation foam if you miss this opportunity. After some time, polyurethane will just exfoliate. For this reason, you will need to take out the outdated insulation and start over with new technology.
To prevent the foam from freezing after finishing the task, give the gun a quick cleaning with a cleaner; this eliminates the need to disassemble it. We can then store the pistol for an infinite amount of time by twisting the adjusting bolt.
Application of a membrane or protective films is not necessary for installation foam. Only when polymerization is fully completed is finishing required. Remember to account for the gap. Because this insulation is fully in contact with the substrate, it is thought of as a universal material for use in building and maintenance projects. Foam installation is used on walls, balconies, attics, and facades of homes. You can use this type of insulation in your home no matter how inaccessible it is. With the right technology, you can easily insulate the construction without the assistance of professionals because it is so simple to use.
Alternative types of insulation for roofs
PPUs are not the only devices used:
- Styrofoam.
- Minvata.
- Glass wool.
- Ecowata.
- Izover.
- Ceramzit.
- Cellulose, etc.D.
Although there is a long list of insulation types that can be used on roofs, only a few are actually used: mineral wool, isuver, ecowata, and a few other types. The unsatisfactory characteristics of several materials and their prices are the reasons behind this.
For instance, it is unacceptable to use the ability to absorb water as insulation because it eliminates all thermal conductivity. Glass wools, for instance, have these issues. Furthermore, a variety of materials are coded, which is why the layer’s thickness varies and the number of indicators is decreased.
The best material for all indicators is the basalt mineral wool, which is the most desirable of these. However, even with it, the material gradually loses its properties and cannot be worked with out of protective layers of vapor and hydro barrier, the so-called roofing cake. It is advised that you read the article "Insulation of the roof with mineral wool with your own hands" before continuing.
If the choice is limited, you can generally use any insulation as long as it provides reliable protection against water vapor or spray. Just be aware of its advantages and disadvantages and consider them when installing.
How to prepare the attic from the inside for insulation with foam
The initial steps in the insulation process are preparatory. Everything unnecessary has been taken out of the attic. They will meddle first. Second, erasing sticky foam is challenging. Valuable items such as furniture and expensive tools may sustain damage.
Prior to insulating the attic’s components, the outdated paint and other finishes are removed.
Following the space’s release, they start preparing the surface so that polyurethane foam can be sprayed on it. Use a spatula to clean the removed paint. If there is worn-out cladding or old insulation, everyone should disassemble it and clear the dust. The integrity of the roof’s wooden components is inspected. Broken beams are replaced or fixed.
There are windows in the attic. They are all covered in film, as are the slopes and window sills. You must attempt to remove the foam from the exposed area with a dependable shelter because it is challenging to do so without leaving any trace.
DIY
There are specific sets available for PPU spraying that include two containers containing the original reagents, which are mixed right there in the working head during the spraying process.
There is no other way to mix the reaction because it happens so quickly.
There are no complicated operations involved in the surface preparation process. Cleaning is only required for debris removal, dusting, and drying when needed. Since the material’s surface is a great insulator and is unaffected by water vapor or spray, there is no need to cut off the insulating membranes beforehand.
Polyurethane foam (PPU) is used for roof insulation. It is applied between the rafters and is done from the inside. During the reaction process, the material expands and gas bubbles form within it, providing the necessary heat-insulating capacity. PPU expands at the same time, densely filling the entire area and plugging all gaps and openings to form a hermetic layer.
This kind of material consistently protects the surface from the cold bridges that lead to the formation of condensation. Because every processed area will be dry, the rafters and roofing material won’t corrode or decay.
All that’s left to do is cover the entire treated area with leaf materials, such as plywood or chipboard, and decorate the room aesthetically after the PPU has been sprayed and allowed to harden.
A semi-professional PPU spraying set.
Spraying PPU between the rafters will help to carefully seal off all gaps and crevices.
PPU that shoots itself
Pros and cons of the attic insulation with foam
You must evaluate all the nuances of the technology and look for potential problems in order to determine whether the insulation will be beneficial. It is immediately important to note that the costs are marginalized. This is a significant drawback for the household budget, but since the roof of the PPU attic serves as a reliable source of insulation, other crucial considerations should take precedence.
- Spraying excludes the formation of seams. Poliuretan foam fills all the cracks, hard -to -reach places. There are no areas in whole thermal insulation where cold bridges could form.
- Polyurethane foam lies on the surface of any complexity. This is especially important when the attic has a broken type of roof.
- High thermal insulation properties of polyurethane foam allow you to perform high -quality insulation with a thin layer. Thermal insulation does not steal a useful space, leaving more free space inside the attic.
- Insulation by spraying is many times faster than laying piece material.
- Polyurethane foam is firmly glued to the surface. Moisture does not form under the insulation, fungus. He does not slide down the inclined plane.
PPU insulation has the potential to save costs in certain situations, even with its high cost. There are attices with violations erected on their roofs. Usually, there isn’t any waterproofing. The membrane will undoubtedly need to lay when using insulation made of basalt. Additionally, vapor barriers must be used to seal the attic plates from the inside. Superior-grade membranes are costly, and there are extra costs associated with installation. Protection with polyurethane foam is not required. Thus, the topic of each technology’s advantageous price is still up for debate.
Poliuretan foam fills in all the gaps and clings to any complexity’s surface with consistency.
The technology’s drawback is the PPU’s aversion to sunlight. Ultraviolet radiation destroys polyurethane foam. However, finishing is the last step in the insulation process for any material, so polyurethane foam under drywall or lining will last for many years. Both a plus and a minus are associated with strong sticking to the surface. The thermal insulation is torn off and cannot be replaced if the roof element needs to be repaired.
Crucial! The PPU is classified as belonging to combustibility class G-2 in terms of fire resistance.
Although PPU does not facilitate combustion, the foam melts and emits smoke when it comes into contact with an open fire source. The inability to carry out insulation on one’s own is the final drawback. Using specialized equipment and a hired brigade, spraying is done.
PPU roof insulation technology
Polyurethane foam roofing foam is made up of multiple standardized steps (we’ll examine a one-component PPU as an example).
Step 1: The adjusting valve is opened to its maximum value by the pistol. It shuts off abruptly when the spray can is turned upside down. Ideally, the first layer is applied from the bottom up. 35–45 cm is the distance between a gun and a line.
Step 2: Wet the foam-covered surface with the spray gun after using the first spray. Taken to work is the second spray.
Step 3: A second layer of PPU is sprayed on top of the first spray’s layer of thermal insulation after 25 to 35 minutes.
Be advised that holding the spray can head down vertically is not possible at the highest point of the roof. In this instance, a pistol with customized nozzles that alter the foam jets’ motion at a 45-degree angle are used.
Step 4: The rafters themselves must be covered in foam in order to attain the tightness of the insulation layer.
Step 5: Water from a pressurized cylinder wound on a pistol spray is used to wash the tool. The adjusting screw is twisted once the gun’s interior has been thoroughly cleaned of any remaining foam. The gun is suitable for long-term storage in this condition.
Step 6: Antipyrene is applied to the insulation layer until the polymerization process is finished, which takes around 40 minutes. This lowers the PPU’s combustibility class. administered with a basic spray gun; the earlier, the more effective.
A straightforward conclusion can be drawn from everything mentioned above: areas rather than a single pass should be used to insulate the roof.
Step 7: A vapor barrier film (type B) is used to seal the insulation from the inside, and a windproof membrane (type A) is used to seal it from the skin. This work, "Statement of vapor barrier with your own hands," shows how to do the task correctly and, most importantly, which side to lay a vapor barrier material on.
Note: Vapor barrier work is not performed when using hard PPU.
Step 8: OSB sheets or drywall are used to sheathe the insulation layer in the attic.
Insulation with professional or semi-professional equipment is slightly simpler.
Following equipment debugging, spraying is done in multiple layers working upwards. It is similar to painting a surface after coloring it. Until the desired thickness is reached, layers are applied.
The tools are cleaned after the job is finished. The surface is sprayed with antipyrees. Overflowing inflows are severed using a craft knife. The attic space’s internal sheathing is completed.
Maintaining a warm and energy-efficient home can be greatly enhanced by adding polyurethane foam insulation to your roof. You can approach this project with confidence by following a step-by-step plan, knowing that you’re making a proactive move toward improved insulation.
To begin with, it’s important to comprehend the advantages of polyurethane foam. This adaptable substance creates a smooth insulation layer that successfully isolates your house from the outside elements. As a result, you won’t need as much heating or cooling since indoor temperatures will be more constant.
It’s important to plan ahead before using polyurethane foam to insulate your roof. For best adhesion and efficacy, make sure the roof is clean and clear of debris. A successful insulation project also requires having the appropriate safety gear and being aware of the application procedure.
The polyurethane foam exhibits remarkable expansion capabilities upon application, effectively filling in gaps and cracks to form a robust barrier that prevents heat loss. This seamless layer extends the life and durability of your roof by adding structural support in addition to insulation.
You can benefit right away from better insulation as soon as the polyurethane foam is applied and cured. All year long, your house will feel cozier, use less energy, and leave a smaller environmental impact. Additionally, this insulation can last for many years with regular maintenance, giving you and your family comfort and long-term savings.