Shower room with your own hands in a private house

It can be exciting and satisfying to turn a spare room in your home into a useful and comfortable shower area. Making your own shower room is a project that offers lots of opportunities for customization and personalization, whether your goal is to test your DIY skills or add convenience to your living area.

Every step of the process needs careful planning and thought, from deciding on the ideal spot within your home to selecting the appropriate materials and fixtures. Don’t worry, though; with the correct direction and a little imagination, you can make your ideal shower room a reality.

A crucial factor to take into account before starting this project is how your new shower room will be laid out and designed. You’ll need to evaluate the space in your home that is available and determine how to best use it for your shower area. Careful planning at this stage will ensure that your shower room not only fits seamlessly into your home but also meets your specific needs and preferences, whether you choose a spacious walk-in enclosure or a small corner shower.

The construction phase should begin as soon as you’ve decided on a layout and put on your work gloves. Building a shower room from the ground up requires a variety of tasks, such as installing plumbing and wall framing, waterproofing surfaces, and tiling. Even though some project components might need expert help, many do-it-yourselfers enjoy taking on these jobs on their own and end up saving money and time in the process.

Of course, without the ideal finishing touches, a shower room is not complete. The final touches, from chic fixtures and fittings to ornamental accents and practical storage options, can significantly improve the appearance and usability of your area. You can design a shower room that expresses your unique taste and style with a plethora of options, regardless of your preference for a sleek modern look or a more traditional feel.

Requirements for the walls

It’s going to be very humid in the washing area where the cabin is going to be installed. As a result, the interior walls and corners will be heavily loaded. Owners of homemade shower boxes who neglected to provide wall protection face the threat of mold, fungus, leaks, and consequent flooding.

Hydroboxes can theoretically and practically be mounted on any wall. even those made of wood. However, moisture must be kept out of them. Not every type of wood can withstand the effects of moisture.

A further layer of moisture-resistant gypsum board lining the walls is one method of wall protection. Naturally, further application of moisture-repellent agents won’t do any harm.

Furthermore, effective moisture-repelling qualities include:

• Walls laid with tiles (tiles or mosaics) and if they are fixed on the appropriate compositions resistant to high humidity;
• PVC paneled walls;
• walls made of glass beams, bricks, stone.

Moreover, the ventilation system, electricity, and ceiling need to be maintained. The top can be plastered with protective elements or covered in panels or tiles.

Conducting electricity outside of an area with high humidity is preferable. Installing LED 12 W lights will be the best course of action. They are inexpensive, don’t heat up too much, and provide good lighting for the area.

It’s also important to remember that soap and lime scale frequently remain on wall surfaces following a shower. When selecting materials for their finishing, keep in mind that frequent washing will be required.

Preparatory measures

It’s crucial to set up the bathroom before creating a shower stall by hand, regardless of the kind and degree of independent work involved:

1. assess the condition of the sewerage and water supply. This applies to risers and laying pipes (permeability, the presence of fistulas and clamps, the level of corrosion for metal pipes, the condition of the connecting elements), as well as drainage sections. The latter, most likely, will have to be replaced, because the scheme of laying communications in the bathroom with the installation of the shower will change. It is also desirable to replace the risers and beds with new ones in case of unsatisfactory condition or to carry out reconstruction;
2. check the condition of the walls, ceiling and floor. If the renovation has been carried out recently and the installation of a shower stall is the only innovation, it is enough to strengthen the waterproofing of the floor and walls in the place of installation. If the condition requires correction, it is necessary to remove the old coating in the place of future installation, to carry out work on waterproofing, to prepare surfaces for subsequent finishing;
3. choose the best option for the location of the stall, taking into account the layout of utilities.

Important note: the room should be waterproofed as completely as possible, the more open the shower compartment will be. In a bathroom like this, electrical appliances have to be protected from moisture.

A few remarks on installation

1. Bricks, aerated concrete and other fillers are used in the construction of the podium. Another layer of concrete screed with a slope towards the drain is laid on top of them. Brick pallet
2. Finishing of the cabin, tiled, is reduced to grouting the surface with a special grouting mixture. It is best to use sanitary sealant as a grouting compound. It can protect the room from moisture and fungus.
3. There must be lighting in the cabin. For this purpose, the shower room is equipped with lighting wiring. It is best to lay it at a distance from water pipes with observance of fire safety measures. The installation of other appliances may require the advice of professionals with experience and knowledge.
4. For doors, acrylic or glass sheets are usually used. Doors made of acrylic are easy to work on. All fittings are purchased in a store. Glass doors are highly fragile and traumatizing. But there is a way to protect yourself by gluing a special film on the surface of the glass, which prevents the glass from shattering into small fragments. It is possible to make a door from a piece of tempered glass. But this method costs a lot of money. Acrylic (formerly called Plexiglas) allows you to make even bent doors. They are used in sliding structures of shower cabins. They are made with the help of a construction hair dryer, a template and guides. Glass shower cabin

Shower cabin pros and cons

The benefits of both sanitary appliances can be utilized if the bathroom’s size permits you to have both a bathtub and a shower cabin. If square meters set the terms for the situation, we advise weighing all the benefits and drawbacks of shower cabins to avoid making a poor decision. This will assist you in determining whether you’re prepared to swap out your outdated bathtub for a contemporary shower cabin.

The following justifications are typically offered by shower cabin proponents:

• For people who lead an active lifestyle, the shower cabin seems to be the best option. It allows you to perform hygiene procedures literally on the run, without being distracted by high sides and curtains, which constantly try to stick to the wet body.
• If there are elderly people in the house, it will be much more comfortable for them to wash in a shower cabin, especially if you install a bench there. Getting in and out of the shower cubicle will be no problem at all for them. But to overcome the high sides of the bathtub grandparents often need help.
• Shower cabin is usually a more or less enclosed space and therefore heats up faster than the whole bathroom. You can warm up the cabin simply by running warm water for a few minutes, and then, already at a comfortable temperature, you can proceed to hygiene and cosmetic procedures.
• A shower cabin takes up less space than a bathtub. On the saved square meter it is possible to install a bidet, washing machine or closet. In addition, a beautiful shower cabin, no matter whether bought or made with your own hands, can become a real highlight of your bathroom.

Shower cabin critics highlight the following drawbacks:

• For many people, taking a bath is a real ritual, which is accompanied by fragrant foam, oil, candles, pleasant music and even champagne. Not everyone is ready to give up this pleasure, which helps to fight stress and fatigue.
• Small children are very fond of splashing in water. Rubber toys and special paints for the bath can occupy them for a long time. Unfortunately, such entertainment is unavailable in a shower cabin.
• In the bathtub it is convenient to wash large things that do not fit in the washing machine or clothes that require delicate hand washing. Of course, there are shower cabins with a deep tray, which partially solve this problem.
• Installation of a ready-made closed cabin does not require preparatory work, but if you decide to make a shower cabin with your own hands, you will have to properly take care of waterproofing.

Principles of choosing a shower room

How can a shower cabin be installed in a private home? These specifications are taken into consideration during installation, and the location is selected so that a single family member’s showering won’t interfere with the other members of the household by being close to the water and sewage systems. The first step in designing this space is to address the two requirements that must be met: a water supply source and sewage drainage.

A wooden house with a shower cabin

There are two basic types of cabins in terms of structure: open and closed. The first version includes a shower panel and a floor system for water drainage that are fixed in place. The walls are constructed like curtains and are only pushed in during the process.

The closed variant enables the installation of a door-equipped stationary wall. It typically has a distinct floor covering and ceiling. Put differently, a stationary-type, isolated, hermetic room is offered.

The dimensions of a shower stall are carefully considered when designing it:

1. Perimeter. Taking into account an adult inside the stall, it is considered that the minimum size of the stall should be 80×80 cm. More attractive are designs of standard sizes: 90×90, 90×100 and 100×100 cm. When planning the placement of other equipment or to increase comfort, it is often ensured that the length of the stall is between 1.2 and 1.8 meters. Of course, the issue of size is interrelated with the cost – large structures have a fairly high price.
2. Height. This parameter should be set taking into account the height of the ceiling in a wooden house. Of course, a person should be able to stand up to his full height under the shower, but it is easy to reach the sprayer with his hands, and the flying spray should not reach the wooden ceiling. Usually the gap between the ceiling and the shower spray is left about 30-35 cm.
3. Shape. The aesthetics of the shower stall is largely determined by its shape. However, this parameter is important not only from this point of view – the configuration of the structure allows you to optimally mark it in the room. In particular, the corner variant is most often used. In general, shower cabins can have a round, rectangular (square), polygonal or asymmetrical shape. The corner design with a quarter-circle projection is widely popular. When placing the shower along the wall, a rectangular shape is used. In principle, it is possible to use original varieties, for example, a cylinder or even a spiral variant.

Doors for shower cabin

If the cabin is rectangular, the solution is relatively easy: in the workshop, a rectangle can be cut out of glass. There are various options for glass door awnings; select the one that best suits your needs. Order only doors with canopies; it is best to try them on and you will need to drill holes for them.

Tempered glass is the preferred option. If it breaks, it will shatter into small, blunt-edged shards that are hard to cut yourself on. However, the pieces will probably stay stuck on the movie. The pricey nature of this glass is a drawback. You can order an ordinary thick, 5–6 mm, and glue it on both sides with a polymer translucent film at home to save money. The effect will be nearly the same as with tempered glass—the shards will be on the film—but it will require some work.

For a split second: the glass is cleaned and then greased before the film is applied. Adhered to the damp glass is the film. You can move the film for a longer period of time and it is simpler to release air bubbles.

If you need translucent doors but don’t want glass, you can make them out of polycarbonate sheets rather than cellular polycarbonate. You will need to locate a furniture profile that works, construct a frame out of it, and then seal the frame with polycarbonate. You can also secure it with washers through the screws for added dependability.

Purchasing prefabricated doors is an additional choice. Glass ones designed specifically for cabins are available, and you can modify a plastic folding "accordion." just like in the film.

Determine the pallet

A homemade shower cabin’s base can be made in one of two ways.

Prefabricated shower tray

The easiest and most apparent solution is this one. In addition to saving you a great deal of time and effort during installation, you won’t have to worry about waterproofing the floor.

One "but": there’s no reason to purchase a low-quality, inexpensive shower tray when a high-quality one will cost you significantly more than a handcrafted floor. The most popular shower trays are made of acrylic and earthenware. Although they look fantastic and hold heat well, these products are fairly brittle.

Cast iron trays are more robust and long-lasting, but because of their weight, they are gradually becoming less useful.

A shower tray composed of quaril, or artificial marble, is the best choice. They blend the robustness and longevity of cast iron with the attractive appearance, thermal conductivity, and earthenware of acrylic. But a sizable sum of money will need to be paid up front for such a purchase.

Sloping floor

It requires more work, but it is also more dependable. In order to direct water down the drain, it is necessary to create an uneven shower floor in the cabin with an inclined angle. By removing a few centimeters of flooring from the shower enclosure’s walls in the direction of the center, you can create this kind of floor on your own. Next, non-slip tiles are installed on the floor, taking into account the slope.

It is essential that the tile adhesive contain a unique anti-fungus and anti-mold compound. Apply bathroom sealant to the joints between the walls.

How to choose a shower cabin for installation in a wooden house

Naturally, you don’t have to complete all of this work by yourself. Installing a prefabricated shower cabin in your brick or frame wooden home is as easy as pie. What standards should be applied in order for the shower cabin to "fit" snugly in the bathroom and to function well for many years without receiving any complaints from your family members?

1. Take precise measurements of your bathroom’s dimensions before heading to the sanitary ware store. Determine the largest amount of space you are willing to give the shower cabin in order to create a sufficiently roomy and cozy bathroom.

2. Make sure you take a measurement of the bathroom walls’ height. Your height and width should be accommodated by the shower enclosure.

3. Go inside the cabin, shut the doors, and turn around while making your purchase. It should be sufficiently roomy and comfortable for you.

4. Go for a model with a seat if you have any health issues or just want more comfort. For convenience, check it out right away in the store as well.

Observe the tray carefully. It ought to be perfectly smooth and not slick.

Furthermore, the tray needs to be able to support a significant amount of weight.

The water supply and sewer systems must be connected to the shower cabin, just like they would be for a standard shower. The fact that electricity is connected to it is the only distinction. The doors of a lot of shower cabin models have airtight seals. This little gadget will keep you warm while you wash, just like in a bathhouse.

Shower cabin base tray

Self-assembling a shower tray is not hard at all. We’ll examine the primary steps involved in its production.

The basic idea behind this design is to fence off the floor’s formwork or brickwork portion, then place the sewer pipes, the water intake funnel, and the trap (scheme number 1) on top of it.

The homemade shower tray’s enclosing wall should be high enough to allow room for pouring concrete screed and creating a slope, and to position the drain elbow beneath the lining. The total of the structure’s dimensions comes out to be 20–25 cm.

Scheme No. 1: Constructing a concrete shower tray

Two things are crucial to remember when working on the shower tray device:

1. Reliable waterproofing of the base under the screed
2. Precise installation of the gangway (under the cladding)

The craftsmanship involved in creating the drainage channel and bowl determines the cabin’s longevity, comfort, and appearance. The shower will grow mold and smell like stagnant water if the tray and the drain funnel are not tight. Therefore, after installing a board or brick formwork, waterproofing mastic must be applied to the walls at the height of the screed in addition to the floor surface (see photo #15).

Grease waterproofing of the tray (Photo № 15)

You can lay the sewer pipe and reveal the ladder once the mastic has dried. Its mark ought to be determined so that, following the placement of tiles and the pouring of concrete, it is level with the facing (see photo #16). When the walls have all of the tiles installed, the screed should be poured.

Picture №16 A gangway and a brick-edged tray

In case the tile shower cubicle is enclosed with a screen supported by a metal frame, remember to install the brickwork fasteners for the posts.

Once the concrete screed has solidified, you can begin tiling the pallet’s floor and edge. When laying the screed, a slope for water drainage into the drain (1.5–2 cm per meter of length) can be created. An alternative is to create the drain at the expense of the tile mortar, which gets thinner as it gets closer to the funnel.

2 Choosing a tray for a shower cabin buy ready-made or make with your own hands

Purchasing a prefabricated pallet with the necessary measurements can save a significant amount of money and make the process of organizing the shower room easier. Acrylic options are typically highly sought after due to their affordability, lightweight nature, and relative warmth. Their one drawback is that they need to be installed on a podium and aren’t always sturdy.

Purchasing an assembled shower tray will save costs and time.

The enameled trays are the next most popular.

They are dependable and simple to maintain, but it’s vital to remember that when they get wet, their surface becomes slick. If you have the money and want to stand out from the crowd, you can purchase a tray made of glass, ceramic, copper, or any other metal.

There are pre-made versions of standard sizes (80×80, 90×90, etc.) available on the market; the more expensive the larger the version. Purchased trays are made to have a variety of shapes:

• semicircular;
• square;
• rectangular;
• angular.

But not everyone is a fan of bought options; instead, they would rather arrange bricks or blocks on their own pallet or pour a concrete structure. Although this method is intricate, it enables you to design a space of any size for showering. Following the frame’s construction, waterproofing must be set up and tile, mosaic, or natural stone must be laid for the interior surface.

It is acceptable to use wood to complete the shower cabin’s interior. In this instance, unique rocks that have undergone specific treatments and impregnations are utilized; these rocks are water-resistant. This is a very uncommon option because it necessitates regular treatment and ongoing maintenance of the wood.

If you’d like, you can construct the pallet yourself, using bricks, for example.

A fashionable trend of the last few years is the arrangement of a shower cabin without a shower tray. The base of such a structure is in the same plane with the floor and visually does not differ from it. It may seem that such a design will be the cause of constant stagnation of water, eternal dampness and the spread of fungus and mold. This can be true if such a shower cabin is built in violation of technology. Correctly, to the nearest millimeter, designed and arranged with your own hands, the area where the water falls when taking a shower, will never become a problem area, because it has a barely visible slope to the drain hole, which, as a rule, is decorated with a special grate.

Because the entire bathroom floor is one plane with few joints, this type of shower stall has the benefit of being easier to maintain. However, this design is better suited for construction in a home or commercial building, as it requires raising the floor level to create a quality sewerage, which is nearly impossible to accomplish in urban apartments.

Is it possible to make a shower cabin yourself, so that it is in no way inferior to the purchased one

Moscow’s Nikolay Fedortsov:

Our reader constructed a modern shower cabin.

"I made the moral decision to assemble the shower stall myself rather than purchase one. Why should I pay more than I should? It took me about fifteen thousand, but a regular shower stall costs twenty-five thousand. Essentially, the shower head, glass door, and acrylic tray are all the same. Only I purchased them individually.

The vacuum valve closes off all unnecessary airflow but keeps nothing in. Additionally, he controls the pipe pressure, lowering it when it rises and the water does not flow.

I started by screwing the legs onto the tray. After that, I used a wrench to adjust them so that the drain pipe is roughly 30 degrees above the surface and it stands perfectly level. If not, the water will not disappear. I’m aware that a lot of people lean slightly in the direction of the water drain, but I don’t need to. Ultimately, I installed a vacuum valve on the drain pipe just past the point where the flexible corrugation from the trap enters. As a result, the water in the tray does not delay or smell like the neighbor’s boiling pots for an extended period of time.

The same assembly principle applies to the bathtub and shower drains.

Subsequently, I fastened a trap onto the tray, sealed it using mesh, affixed a siphon, and fastened a corrugation to the final one. After that, a tee on the drain pipe was attached to this corrugation. I used a more costly siphon that cost two thousand rubles. With a cheap one, porridge cannot be cooked.

Subsequently, I attached the cabin to hot and cold water, concealed the pipes within the screed, and plastered them. To ensure there was no space between the wall and the tray, an aluminum frame was positioned on four of its sides. I then plastered it to create a slope that runs from the wall to the shower tray. It drips water, and as you can imagine, the lower the humidity, the less mold.

I used tiles to tile this slope and all the walls, caulking the joints with sealant. After that, I added a screen with a swinging door and a shower head.

I should also mention that everything was completed flawlessly—better than any master! Nothing has leaked or fallen off in the past year and a half.

The shower cabin mounting and connecting instructions are not covered in detail in the letter. Not a problem! You can read another of our articles to better grasp all the subtleties: Putting together a shower cabin by hand.

How do I connect a shower cabin correctly? Visit this link for comprehensive instructions: http://remontspravka.com/podklyuchenie-dushevoy-kabinyi-k-vodoprovodu-kanalizatsii-elektroseti/

Find out how much installing a shower cabin costs by reading this article.

A weighty word from Vasilisa Lugina:

– It looks fantastic! Personally, I wouldn’t mind taking one of these homemade showers. It is true that the sump is often positioned against the brick wall. Ultimately, communications are not visible and it is far more stable. However, since the pipes are not protruding here, no masonry is required.

Yes, Nikolay paid a low price for the shower cabin. However, that is because the shower only has one side with a shower screen installed, and the other three are surrounded by walls. Additionally, screens these days are pricey; you won’t find any for less than $5,000.

When the walls are on both sides, building a homemade shower enclosure is another roughly affordable option. A cabin like that can be tiny. For anyone wondering how to make a shower in the living room or Khrushchevka, this is therefore the best option.

Choosing a shower cabin door made of glass or acrylic

There are numerous options available for door designs for DIY showers. Most commonly, use an easy-to-process material like cast acrylic. Alternatively, you could construct the shower cabin’s glass doors:

• You will need glass cut to size (you can order it in a workshop) and the appropriate fittings: awnings, handles, etc. All of this is available in specialized stores. If part of the cabin walls is made of glass, you should additionally buy corners for mounting.

• The only disadvantage of this choice is the high fragility of glass and a high probability of injury if it is damaged. You can partially protect yourself by gluing a special film on the surface, in this case, the glass will not fall apart in small shards in the event of impact. Or use another option, make the doors of the shower stall from tempered glass. But then you can not even think about saving money.

Cast acrylic, also known as plexiglass in the past, has a wider range of applications and is more impact resistant. Bending sliding doors for shower cabins is even possible with a certain level of acrylic proficiency. You’ll need a construction hair dryer, a template, and some prior experience working with these kinds of materials to accomplish this. You will also require rollers, metal rack profiles, and guides, to which the door blades are subsequently attached. Because everything is installed in one single structure, you’ll have an affordable and useful shower stall.

Should you find working with acrylic and glass to be an overly complex profession, you can purchase the necessary parts from factory model manufacturers. Despite the slightly higher cost, installation will proceed much more quickly, and the cabin won’t really differ from the industrial version.

A unique and beautiful glass block shower cabin

The most inventive interior items can now be produced thanks to modern materials and technologies. Thus, a new material has emerged recently that makes it possible to refresh the bathroom’s design: a shower cabin built of glass blocks has the potential to be the room’s focal point.

Choosing the right material for your bathroom won’t be difficult because there is a vast array of color options and design concepts. Without the primary drawbacks of glass, shock-resistant and long-lasting blocks come in a variety of surfaces, including frosted, transparent, corrugated, and even with internal filling. Seashells, corals, seaweed, and other objects (usually with a marine theme) can be used to fill the empty spaces inside this unusual brick.

The ability to create both flat and curved partitions with practically any radius of curvature is another benefit of this material. In this instance, installing the wall is straightforward and doesn’t really differ from laying regular bricks. A bonding mortar made of cement mix or ceramic tile adhesive can be utilized.

Installation of a special reinforcing system is required if the partition is larger than 15 square meters. However, keep in mind that these types of walls are not meant to support any weight, so exercise caution when mounting cabinets or strips on them.

The glass block version of the shower cabin is generally distinguished by its exceptional durability and practicality. Because the glass does not retain dirt or mold, this type of design requires little maintenance. Any residue can simply be cleaned off using a non-abrasive detergent. Furthermore, a shower room of this kind will last for many years without losing its unique style.

Water supply, sewerage

Once the location of a small shower stall in a wooden house has been determined, the next step is to install the future structure’s water supply and sewerage system:

• Put marks where the mixer will be located;
• lead the pipes into the walls where the shower room will be located;
• install water filters that affect water quality. This will save the cartridge, guarantee the correct operation of faucets, the entire water supply system, not to clog the hoses with all kinds of impurities;
• plumbing parts are connected using a flexible hose, carefully screwing all parts of the. It is very important to use flexible hoses of greater length, which will then allow you to freely adjust the place of the shower stall;
• Connecting the sewer pipes in the floor of the future bathroom.

Installing plumbing

All sewer pipe connections and hoses should be sealed with silicone, fum tape, or specialty sealants prior to connecting the water supply and sewerage system.

Diagram showing the shower cabin’s communications locations schematically

Shower cabin with your own hands in a private house step-by-step master class

We provide step-by-step instructions on how to build a shower cabin in a private home using a gypsum board frame and tile facing. Furthermore, the simplest cabin installation method is disassembled.

The cabin’s creation will need:

• plasterboard;
• profiles;
• bricks to create a tray;
• tiled tiles;
• drain;
• mixture for masonry or cement;
• screed;
• liquid latex waterproofing;
• tile adhesive.

It is essential to purchase screed, glue, and masonry mix marked "Waterproof" even when waterproofing is used. If not, water will seep through the structure after taking a shower, weakening the connections.

Creating a tray

Bricks are used to make the pallet. These do-it-yourself trays are useful for potential fixes.

	1. Mix the mixture for masonry according to the instructions on the package. Mix with a mixer or regular trowel.
	2. Bricks are laid directly on the old tile, so dismantling is omitted. In this case it is not critical, because in the future the excess tiles will be removed and a new one will be installed. The drain is installed on the second level of bricks. Assemble it according to the instructions. The drain is laid on the bricks, with the installation of the outlet at an incline of 5-7 degrees – so the water drainage will get rid of unnecessary odors without the use of an elbow.
	3. After installing the drain, finish laying the bricks. Place a one-brick-high bead around the edges of the masonry. It serves as a base for future plasterboard walls.
	4. Floor screed is poured on the brickwork, which creates an even surface. It should be poured in a layer of 3-4mm, maintaining the level across the entire tray. The screed takes about 24 hours to dry.
	5. At the end, we clean the surface with sandpaper.

Erection of the frame

Metal profiles are used to create the frame, which will have sheets of gypsum plasterboard fixed on top. There are two kinds of profiles used: laths and guides. The brickwork and walls have the profiles doweled into them.

	6. Drill a hole with a drill or perforator. A dowel is inserted and a screw is screwed in on top of it.
	7. Place the profiles on the wall and lay the slab. Under it place pipes for hot and cold water supply. Installation takes place after the frame is completely assembled.
	8. After the frame is erected, start preparing the drywall. Place a solid sheet on the side with the faucet. Beforehand, holes for hot and cold water are drilled in it.
	9. Cover the frame with plasterboard.
	10. Screw the sheets onto the screws.
	11. For the durability of the tray, go over the entire surface with waterproofing. In order not to make a mistake with the choice, buy waterproofing for residential and non-residential premises, with application in showers.
	12. Finish the surface with a brush.

Facing with tiles

	13. Cut the tiles into the required pieces with a tile cutter. It is not necessary to buy it for the work – it is enough to borrow or rent it from acquaintances.
	14. Lay the tiles from the corner. It is more advisable to start from the floor. Place a plastic corner between each individual tile to help maintain the distance.
	15. Once all the tiles are in place, grout the distances with grout. It is applied in the gaps between the tiles.
16. After curing, wipe off any excess grout residue. Moisten a sponge with water and make quick movements to remove the excess grout. Washing should be done quickly – it will be problematic to remove it later.

The shower stall is completed. Put in a regular curtain or a hinged door if needed.

Video: installing a shower with your own hands

Shower room layout and plumbing installation

Of course, designing a future shower room in a house that is still under construction is much simpler. Here, the imagination is essentially boundless:

• Building a shower room with a sloping floor;
• installation of a tray "sunk" into the floor;
• installation of a monolithic tray with a rim;
• installation of a ready-made shower tray;
• Connecting a modern shower enclosure.

Therefore, even during the building phase, the floor’s level should be at least 10-15 cm lower than the floors of the other rooms in order to create a sloping floor. The same holds true for a shower tray whose edges are at floor level, preventing you from having to cross a threshold to enter the bathroom.

The final three "floor" options are your only options if you need to re-equip the shower room in a finished home and it is not possible to remove the floor. Their benefit is indisputable: even without expert knowledge, you can make a shower like this with your own hands.

Features of pipe wiring in the shower

Collector pipes and tee, or sequential, pipes are the two types of pipe layouts.

In the first example, tees are used to connect all water intake points to the main pipe. This is the least complicated wiring option that uses the fewest materials.

The second, and more intricate, method involves first letting the water enter the collector, then sending it via separate pipes to every appliance, including sinks, showers, toilets, and others. This fixes the issue of a pressure drop that occurs when multiple water points are turned on at once.

Use a serial connection in hand-built homes because a collector system will not function without specialized knowledge and skills. To avoid spilling hot water from the shower into the washing machine, it’s sufficient to use pipes with varying diameters: 3/4" for the common pipe and 1/2" for appliance connections.

The way the shower’s drainage is organized is another crucial detail. Prior to selecting a siphon, you must determine:

1. With the type of siphon – pipe, bottle or trap siphon. Pipe traps are often clogged because of the corrugated inner surface, and bottle traps require a lot of space under the tray. The drains are universal and can be installed directly into the floor – their height is about 8 cm.

Depending on the kind of tray—monolithic or accessible to the drain. Only 90 mm diameter drains work in the first scenario because they can be cleaned right through the hole. If a siphon is available, you can select an even with 52 mm of holes. The likelihood of leakage in the future increases with the number of connections.

The distance between the shower and the sewer connection is crucial when choosing a location for it; if it is greater than 3 meters, you will need to deaerate in order to remove the air that comes with the water.

How to make a shower room without a tray

Beautifully designed shower room without a tray. Such a shower in the house is convenient for children and the elderly, as well as for bathing pets. You don’t have to worry about the bathroom completely flooding because the proper slope for water drainage makes up for the absence of a curb.

Even though it takes a lot of time, planning such a shower is likewise fairly easy:

1. On the finished base with the pipes already taken out, polystyrene foam boards are laid all around the perimeter of the bathroom. The lower part of the trap trap is assembled and connected to the sewerage system.

Over the installed siphon, a layer of concrete screed is put. Waterproofing is applied to the walls and floor next to the shower once the screed has dried.

Installing the drain grate and creating an oblique formwork allows the drain to be organized with a minimum slope of 2 cm for every 1 meter of length. There was a time when concrete screed covered the entire bathroom perimeter.

Waterproofing mastic is used to seal the visible edges of the formwork, and sealing tape is used to cover the corners.

The bathroom can then be completely tiled. Additionally, if you’d like, you can install glass doors or fasten a curtain bracket.

It is possible to create a shower with a border without having to screed the entire floor twice. This is accomplished by laying bricks in the desired contour and repeating the entire process, but only within the curb-limited area.

The following is a very clear demonstration of how to make a shower with a tray like that in the video:

Stage three. Preparing the room for a shower stall, proper waterproofing

Skilled masters advise that the basic floor covering should always be placed at least 10–20 centimeters below the floor surface of other rooms. Additionally, extra precautions should be taken to shield the floor and walls from excessive moisture when installing the stall in a wood-framed home. The treated surface is first cleared of any debris, streaks, and old finishes for this reason. Following processing with a quick-drying primer, you can safely move on to the following steps.

1. Waterproofing of the room. First, moisture-resistant chipboard is laid, which is subsequently covered with pergamin, polymer film. It is important that the layers are overlapped and no gaps are formed. Bituminous mastic is used to seal the joints (the best option). On top of the film, the area of the room where the cabin will be located, poured sand-cement screed (the latter can be additionally treated with special mixtures – moisture-repellent, anti-fungal, etc.).).
2. As alternatives, the following materials can be used: plasterboard, moisture-resistant plywood, treated with antiseptic substances and covered with paint that has a water-repellent base.
3. If your bathroom is made of wood, then be sure to take care of good ventilation, which will provide natural air circulation after you take a shower. In particular, this is relevant in those cases where the shower is combined with a toilet.

Kindly take note! It is imperative that waterproofing be done right away around the bathroom’s whole perimeter. If you do choose to keep some surfaces, give them unique, intricate compositions.

If the room is in the same wooden house, you can further protect it from steam and hot water by setting up an airtight shower that separates it from the rest of the house. Additionally, you can greatly increase the building’s operational life if you connect the fan at the same time as everything else.

Remember that waterproofing should shield the floor and ceiling in addition to the walls, which is crucial for wooden homes in particular. You will feel at ease about the integrity of the slabs even if the hose starts to leak or the cartridge breaks and causes a flood.

It is better to do everything yourself plan of works

Even in a small space, a roomy shower stall can be constructed. The shower cabin’s corner placement lets you arrange the bathroom’s space in a sensible manner. These could be variations on semicircular, square, or rectangular shapes. As a result, when selecting a door, keep these aspects of the future shower in mind.

Shower stall in the square shape

Stall for semi-circular showers

Shower cubicle with a rectangular shape

Unquestionably, such a shower cabin will be one-of-a-kind, but creating it will require careful consideration of every little detail.

When designing a shower cabin in a wooden house, extra caution should be used. You must be sure to connect it correctly and select all the accessories needed for the bathroom’s layout, such as doors, tiles, bricks, and faucets.

You should choose the plan and order of work to be completed before beginning the independent construction of a shower cabin:

• plan a place for the future shower;
• Buy the necessary elements;
• waterproofing measures;
• laying communications;
• installing the shower tray;
• lining the walls and choosing the doors;
• installation process;
• check the functionality of the structure;
• details to be paid attention to.

A different subject: putting in a shower cabin in a rural area. You will thus discover what a work of art you are capable of creating by yourself if you read the content through to the end! If you decide to tackle the bathroom repair yourself, you will be able to impress your relatives, obtain a great deal of construction experience, and use the finished product in comfort.

Advantages

Extended use. A tiled shower stall will not require any maintenance and look great for a very long time.

Many moving parts with a tendency to break down quickly are thought to be the primary cause of shower cabin failures that are manufactured in factories. With the exception of the sliding doors, a tiled shower room hardly has any such components.

There are lots of places in plastic cubicles where moisture can build up. Humidity plays a role in the formation of rust on metal components and serves as a haven for microorganisms in plastic components. Because there are no low-access areas in integrated showers, their cleaning is improved.

Compared to plastics, ceramic tiles are far more durable. It is very difficult to break, scratch, or destroy.

With so many options available, ceramic slab allows people to customize their shower rooms to their own preferences.

Handcrafted tile shower stalls are less expensive than prefabricated plastic ones, so you can save money by building one yourself.

Connection to the water and sewerage system

It’s a crucial and intricate process to connect the shower stall to the water supply and sewage. which is best left to the experts. You can install it yourself if you have prior drainage and sewerage experience.

We will discuss it briefly in this article; for further information, see the special detailed material here.

The shower stall’s wall should be reached by the water supply pipes. Ball valves can be installed as an additional option. which has the ability to cut off the water supply in an emergency.

Installing water filters, if required, will prolong the life of the water supply system in addition to improving the quality of the water.

Utilizing plastic pipes and flexible hoses to join plumbing components. Turn the hoses on with caution. As you install the shower head, make sure the water supply system is in working order.

When the tray is mounted, the cabin’s connection to the sewage system is made. We connect the cabin straight to the sewage riser if it is located in the restroom. Place a sewage pump nearby if there isn’t a standpipe.

We hope that our advice and suggestions will enable you to construct a useful, cozy, and practical shower stall by hand.

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Tools and materials needed

Prior to building your own shower cabin, you must measure, sketch out a plan, estimate the cost, and gather all required supplies and equipment.

What information is necessary before we begin work?

1. Place, in which the design will be installed.
2. Shape – round, square, rectangular.
3. Sizes of the tray. If the room allows, make the tray spacious enough so that you can comfortably take a shower in the future.
4. Height of the structure. You can put the stall under the ceiling or leave a free space for additional ventilation and quick drying.

The cabin’s standard measurements are 100 by 100 centimeters, but you are free to change them. Remember to account for the thickness of the building materials you plan to use to construct the cabin.

In order to construct, we will require:

• Brick (silicate or masonry) for the pallet.
• Cement.
• Metal mesh.
• Waterproofing compound.
• Drill.
• trowel.
• Paint brush.
• Roulette.
• Water or laser level.
• Plaster beacon.

Floor-to-ceiling shower with your own hands

The following methodology is reliable even for a novice builder because it has stood the test of time.

Floor arrangement

The room’s perimeter is composed of horizontal sections, and the floor is punctuated with posts positioned 400–500 mm below the surface.

Both the ends of the posts and the upper surface of the contour laid along the walls must be in a horizontal plane.

Following that, the metal frame is covered in these structural elements:

• Flooring made of planks wrapped in polyethylene film.
• Concrete screed with expanded clay filler 100 mm thick.
• Thermal insulation made of PSB-25 foam with a thickness of 100 mm (consists of two layers of 50 mm thick, the boards are laid with joint dressing).
• Reinforced cement-sand screed 30 mm thick (as a reinforcement frame you can use a masonry mesh with a mesh size of 100×100 mm, previously laid on the reinforcement with a diameter of 12 mm).
• 50 mm thick expanded clay concrete screed.
• Final coating – ceramic tiles laid on sand-cement mortar with the inclusion of liquid glass.

Remember to fix the sleeves for the water and sewer pipes before laying the screed.

Partitioning

Internal walls that divide the shower area from adjacent rooms can be constructed with silicate bricks or frame construction with plasterboard cladding.

The brick partition wall is leveled and plastered on both sides using glue putty and oil.

Next, the wall is covered with ceramic tiles from the inside (the side of the bathroom), and painted with decorative textured paint from the outside.

Waterproofing and finishing of capital walls

If the exterior wall is composed of wood, fireproofing and antifungal compound should be applied.

Subsequently, the subsequent materials are arranged in layers:

• 1 layer of roofing felt (the sheets are laid with 150 mm overlap and sewn with a construction stapler).
• 4 mm thick foil thermal insulation – Adgilin or Polyfom is suitable.
• Lathing made of 40×30 mm bars pre-treated with antiseptic and fixed to the wall with dowels or self-tapping screws.
• Cladding of xylite-fiber sheets (10 mm thick sheets are laid in two layers with joint dressing and screwed with plasterboard screws).
• Finish – PVC panels or ceramic tiles.

Ensuring the summer shower room is waterproof

PF-115 enamel can be applied in two layers to xylitofiber sheets at the shower cabin installation site to act as a vapor and waterproof barrier.

Ceiling

The ceiling should be constructed using the same materials as the capital (exterior) walls, with the exception of the finish coating, which should be applied in two layers using white enamel PF-115.

It is necessary to drill a ventilation hole in the slab prior to beginning any work. Prior to painting, holes should be made for the installation of lighting fixtures in the xylitofiber sheets.

Engineering communications

Engineering communications should be laid out carefully and ahead of time.

It won’t be feasible to install the equipment without knowing its precise measurements, so before you begin, purchase all the plumbing, exhaust fans, lights, towel dryers, and other necessary supplies.

A du50 pipe should be used to connect sanitary equipment to the sewerage system.

A 15 mm diameter pipe is used to distribute the hot and cold water supply. Metal-plastic pipes can be replaced with polypropylene pipes in a private home where temperature and pressure changes in the DHW system are not present. They require less expensive fittings, and weld connections are stronger.

An RCD that can handle currents up to 10 mA should be installed on a separate wire that is used to connect electrical consumers from the input device. It is necessary to connect to grounding, so three core wire should be used. It is preferable to use copper in double insulation, with 1.5 sq. cm strands in cross section.

In order to keep water off of the washbasin and shower cubicle, outlets should be placed farther away from them. IP55 is the class for dust and water protection (a sealed cover is present).

Pay attention to accessories

Since the shower is the "weakest" location in the bathroom, particularly in a wooden house, we would like to draw special attention to the mixer selection for this area. Frequently, when a faucet cartridge becomes clogged or broken, the faucet becomes difficult to operate and begins to leak or make noise.

Because of this, faucets quickly lose their ability to function. It is therefore worthwhile to select a solution that enables you to fix it without difficulty.

Items required for taking a shower

These days, single-lever mechanical mixers are thought to be the easiest to maintain and repair because they have a long lifespan. After reading the directions, connecting them is simple. The primary function of faucets is to provide the necessary water pressure and temperature, with the cartridge bearing the majority of the load.

5 mode 100 mm mixer for shower cabin

The mixer becomes unusable due to the cartridge becoming clogged with sorrins during the operation of the water supply system. When a cartridge is used in these mixers, the benefits are clear:

• reliable, durable designs;
• The cartridge can be replaced with a new one with your own hands. Possible problems with the compatibility of such a part, so choose a cartridge should be selected only from the same company as the mixer;
• Convenient operation, small size, great design.

Such designs only have the drawback of the single-lever mechanical shower mixer breaking down because of a broken main component. This cartridge needs to be replaced; repairs are not possible.

Electrics

Electricity will only be needed for forced ventilation (using a fan that runs off the mains) and lighting if your shower cabin won’t have any extra features like hydromassage, a steam room, or a sauna effect. It is implied that close contact with water increases the safety of electrical appliances. It is preferable to connect the shower cabin’s exterior to the electricity. Installing a safety cut-off device is important since it will guard against overloads on the electrical network. Verify that the plug next to the shower cabin, if one exists, has the proper level of moisture and dust protection.

To ensure your safety and the safety of every member of your family, it is preferable, if at all possible, to leave the wiring to a licensed professional electrician.

Creating a shower room in your own private house is a rewarding project that adds comfort and functionality to your home. By undertaking this task yourself, you not only save money but also have the freedom to customize the space according to your preferences. From selecting the right materials to installing plumbing fixtures, building a shower room involves careful planning and execution. Proper waterproofing and ventilation are crucial to prevent moisture damage and mold growth. Additionally, attention to detail in tiling and finishing touches ensures a professional-looking result. With the right tools, knowledge, and dedication, anyone can successfully build a shower room in their private house, enhancing both the value and enjoyment of their home.

1 Shower area what you need for its arrangement

It is hygienic and practical to install a shower cubicle. Such a design takes up little space, is simple to maintain, and can be customized with a variety of contemporary building materials. Shower cabins are not limited to apartments; they are also being installed in private homes with no meter restrictions. The first step is to figure out where the construction will take place. Movement within the room and the use of other bathroom amenities, such as the washbasin and washing machine, shouldn’t be impeded by the cabin.

Shower cabins are high-humidity areas, so you should plan ahead and arrange your own hands-on quality ventilation. Lighting is not absolutely necessary, but the wiring should be installed outside of the "wet zone" and LED lights with an IP 65 or 67 index should be used as the sources of light because they are protected from direct water infiltration.

When setting up the shower cabin, ventilation needs to be considered.

Crucial! It is best to use lamps with a 12 V source in the shower area; however, make sure the lamp is protected with an emergency shutdown device. The forthcoming work can be conditionally divided into the following stages if you plan to construct a shower cabin entirely by hand:

The forthcoming work can be conditionally divided into the following stages if you plan to construct a shower cabin entirely by hand:

• Erection of walls. If there is a ready room, then this stage of the work can be omitted, otherwise it will be necessary to delimit the space.
• Arrangement of the hydrobarrier of the walls and the tray. A complex and responsible stage, on which the convenience and safety of using the shower will depend.
• Creating a reliable drainage system. It is necessary to ensure not only its correct position, but also the possibility of maintenance.
• Buying finishing materials. It is necessary to purchase quality tiles, porcelain tiles or mosaics.
• Installation of communications in the walls.
• Facing the walls with the selected material.
• Plumbing installation.

What about accessories

Here, you need to pay close attention to a crucial component of the cabin: the shower mixer, which is arguably the "weakest link" in the entire bathroom—especially if the home is made of wood. Generally, when a faucet gets clogged with different kinds of debris or when the cartridge breaks, it becomes noticeably less functional and leaks or makes noise.

As a result, this gadget quickly breaks down with continued use. It is therefore advised that you prioritize only those options whose design makes it possible for you to perform repairs without encountering any unique challenges.

Kindly take note! A mechanical single-lever mixer is the easiest to operate and repair, and it has a long lifespan of trouble-free service. You can easily complete the installation with your hands if you familiarize yourself with the manufacturer’s instructions. Any faucet’s basic function is to provide the necessary water pressure and temperature (the cartridge bears the majority of the load).

It makes sense, too, as the cartridge frequently becomes clogged with different types of tiny impurities when using the water supply, which can lead to the faucet malfunctioning. The benefits of cartridge-operated faucets are indisputable; let’s acquaint ourselves with the most significant ones in detail.

• These are reliable and durable devices.
• They are easy to operate, moreover, they can "boast" an attractive design and compactness.
• If necessary, you may well be able to replace the old cartridge with a new one. It should be remembered that sometimes there are difficulties with the compatibility of this element, therefore, give preference to the cartridge of the same manufacturer as the mixer.

The single drawback of this type of design is that a single-lever shower mixer may become damaged as a result of the failure of its primary component. There is no way to fix the cartridge; replacing it with a new one is the only option.

Ways of organizing the drain in the shower stall

Even though they appear nearly identical on the outside—tile for the walls and floor, with some doors—handmade shower cabins differ greatly inside. There are a ton of options available.

Types of trays

Installing a prefabricated tray is the quickest and most dependable way to create a waterproof floor for a shower cabin. It can be set up on brickwork or a foam block base can be created. We include both acrylic and enameled shower trays under the category of "ready-made." Although acrylic is non-slip and lightweight, it will eventually turn yellow. Although enameled is not too bad to use, it becomes slick when wet and requires the use of a rubber matting. Another benefit of acrylic is that, to the touch, it is not as cold.

If none of the above work, build a pallet out of brick or solid concrete and cover it with regular or mosaic floor tiles. This is a big solution, but it’s hard to put into practice. If you live in an apartment building and choose to build a tile shower tray, you will require excellent multi-layer waterproofing to ensure that there are no issues with neighbors on the side or below. This does not imply that a hand-built shower cabin in a private residence lacks waterproofing. People who "make a mistake" will also suffer.

Brick shower tray that’s not quite finished

An additional choice is the intermediate one. A metal "trough" with the right measurements is welded together and carefully coated with anticorrosive materials. installed on a brick or foam block podium (a drain is required), and if needed, bricked on the exterior to create a curb or step. Glue mosaic on the inside.

Typically, one selects one of these options. Additionally, there is a device without an obvious tray, and the drain can be built into the wall; however, this will require raising the floor level throughout the bathroom and creating a slope that directs water flow.

Now let’s talk specifically about shower trays and cabin sizes:

• 80*80 cm is very small, it is difficult to bend down even for a slender person, you constantly touch the walls;
• 90*90 cm – somewhat better, but still cramped;
• 100 cm and more – it already feels normal, you can sit down without much trouble.

If space is at all tight, try to leave at least 90 cm between walls if comfort is a priority. Otherwise, try to leave at least one meter between walls.

Organization of the drain

Next, you have to decide on the drain’s layout. There are two instruments: a trap and a siphon. Although gangways are more costly, they are typically more dependable and have a lower height. It is usually poured into concrete, and its strength reserve will last for a respectable amount of time.

Although installing a sump requires planning for the possibility of replacing it, the siphon is less expensive. Masonry is not a good idea because you will need to use a perforator to access it if there is a problem with the repair. You can envision the outcome. As a result, leave a revision passage—which is sealed with a hatch or a tiny door—open when using a siphon.

How to make a revision hatch in a shower cabin using your hands

The drain should be functional in any event. This implies that the upper portion—the mesh—can be taken off, and a rope can be used to clean the pipe. In order to facilitate this, the drain pipe should be installed with a maximum angle of 45° toward the sewer; however, it is preferable to avoid making any more than 30° turns.

Let’s talk about slopes now. The pipe from the gangway to the sewer outlet is laid with a slope of at least 4-5% in order to keep water from standing still in the pipes. This indicates that for every meter of length, there is a height difference of 4-5 cm. The floor’s bevel should be roughly equal, allowing water to drain to the designated area.

Modern design of a shower room in a private house

Perhaps you would like the entire house to have a certain aesthetic. For instance, you can design the shower room to have a rustic feel if that’s what you want. There are numerous variations of the rustic style, ranging from country to chalet.

Go for the Provence look if you’re looking for romance in such a delicate setting. With the right material, color, and accessory choices, as well as the creation of the ideal atmosphere, it can be realized in any type of home.

Although it appears more modern, the loft style somehow echoes the somewhat boring hi-tech. The shower room will then resemble an industrial area or possibly an attic. or perhaps not even somewhat. However, styles like Empire, classicism, and baroque—which demand extra glitz and gloss—only work well in large spaces.

Walls and ceiling of the shower room

There are laxer requirements for waterproofing the ceiling and walls. Two layers of rolled materials are adhered to each other, overlapping, using construction staplers. Use PVC panels, moisture-resistant gypsum board, and stretch PVC construction for the ceiling as appropriate solutions. Moreover, bathroom walls are waterproofed using aqua panels or extruded polystyrene panels. Sealing film is glued into the spaces created by the panels.

The finishing materials are fastened to a wooden frame with a space between the wall and the base to allow for adequate ventilation and prevent the buildup of condensation.

It is crucial to apply protective agents to every component of the wooden battens during the process.

Many people think that the only material that can be used to tile bathroom walls is ceramic; otherwise, the wood will rot and deteriorate. This is untrue, though, as natural materials can be successfully protected by contemporary antiseptics. As a result, you can select any finish.

Wagoning is the best option if you want to maintain the rawness of a log or beam home. Using wooden wagons for finishing will preserve the ecological integrity of the building while shielding the log cabin from various issues. Thin laths work well for ceilings as well as walls. If needed, they will level the surface and blend in harmoniously while highlighting the room’s aesthetics.

Wagoning is characterized by simple processing and installation; complex maintenance is not necessary. The material can be painted any color and arranged in any direction, including vertically and diagonally. These days, wood, mosaics, and ceramics are becoming more and more popular together. Click this link to learn more about what and how to finish a bathroom in a wooden house.

Materials Needed

Steps to Follow

Waterproofing membrane, tiles, grout, shower tray, shower fittings, plumbing pipes, cement, sand, screws, drill, level, silicone sealant

1. Prepare the area by cleaning and leveling the floor. 2. Install plumbing pipes for hot and cold water. 3. Lay down a waterproofing membrane to prevent leaks. 4. Create a shower tray using cement and sand mixture, ensuring it slopes towards the drain. 5. Tile the walls and floor, leaving space for the shower fittings. 6. Install the shower fittings securely according to manufacturer instructions. 7. Apply grout between tiles and silicone sealant around fittings to prevent water seepage. 8. Test the shower to ensure it functions properly.

Convenience and comfort are two benefits of building a shower room in your own house. It is completely possible to build a shower room in a private home without the assistance of a professional with proper planning and execution. There are a few important things to bear in mind when building something from scratch or remodeling an existing area.

First and foremost, making sure your home is properly waterproofed is crucial to avoiding any water damage to the structure. This entails sealing joints and edges correctly and choosing the right materials, such as waterproof membranes and sealants. Furthermore, in order to avoid moisture buildup, which over time can result in mold and mildew problems, proper ventilation is essential.

When planning your shower area, take accessibility, size, and arrangement into account. Prioritizing elements such as proper fixture placement and room for mobility is essential. Furthermore, adding elements like non-slip flooring and grab bars can improve safety, particularly for people with mobility issues.

Furthermore, the functionality and design of your shower room can be greatly impacted by your choice of fixtures and fittings. There are many options to fit your tastes and budget, from showerheads and faucets to tiles and lighting. Investing in high-quality, low-maintenance materials will ensure their longevity and require less care over time.

To sum up, adding a shower room to a private residence is a doable do-it-yourself project that can improve the comfort and market value of your house. You can design a warm and welcoming area that is useful for everyday use by giving careful thought to elements like waterproofing, ventilation, design, and fixture selection. A customized shower room that meets your needs can be a luxurious and convenient experience if you plan ahead and pay close attention to the little things.

Video on the topic

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Drywall shower stall in a private house. Building my house from foam block

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Shower cabin in construction design with your own hands.