Installation of heating radiators with your own hands: in a house or apartment, binding patterns

Although installing heating radiators can seem like a difficult task, you can do it yourself if you have the right advice. Knowing the fundamentals of installing radiators and the binding patterns involved can make the process go more smoothly and effectively, whether you live in a home or an apartment.

It is important that you familiarize yourself with the various types of radiators that are available before beginning the installation process. Every type of radiator, from contemporary panel radiators to classic cast iron radiators, has unique qualities and installation needs. Selecting the ideal radiator for your area will guarantee maximum heating effectiveness if you take your time.

Selecting the best location for your radiators in your house is one of the first steps in installing them. It’s important to take into account elements like the size, arrangement, and type of current heating system in the room. In addition to guaranteeing uniform heating distribution, proper placement optimizes energy efficiency.

After deciding on a radiator placement, it’s time to concentrate on the binding patterns. The order in which radiators are connected to the heating system is known as a binding pattern. Comprehending these patterns is imperative to guarantee appropriate distribution of heat and water in your house.

Every binding pattern has pros and cons, regardless of whether radiators are connected in series or parallel. For instance, series binding provides uniform heat distribution among all radiators, whereas parallel binding provides greater control over the temperature of each individual room.

Throughout the installation process, it’s critical to adhere to local building codes and manufacturer instructions regardless of the binding pattern you select. Optimizing heating efficiency and preventing leaks can be achieved by making sure that pipes are properly sized, insulated, and sealed.

By investing some time to learn the fundamentals of binding patterns and radiator installation, you can confidently take on this do-it-yourself project and have a cozy and warm house all winter long.

Features of the installation of various types of radiators

Depending on the material of manufacture, there are various types of heating devices, and each has unique installation features. Let’s enumerate them:

  • aluminum;
  • steel;
  • bimetallic;
  • cast iron;
  • copper;
  • Plastic.


Aluminum batteries that are heated are regarded as budget line models. Water heater housings are created through the process of extrusion, which involves applying pressure to press the molten metal mass into the desired shape. They consequently obtain light, non-vegetable integral structures with internal flowing channels. Annealing oxidation is applied to the product’s surfaces, giving aluminum a robust protective layer.

One of the challenges associated with installing heating batteries is the connection of aluminum pipes to the steel-pipe-based heat supply network.

It is a fact that non-ferrous metal undergoes destructive processes when aluminum and steel come into direct contact.

The devices are connected by screwing special transition couplings to pipes holding the coolant in order to stop this from happening. Bronze pipe stock cranes are also in use.


Steel heating appliances weigh significantly less and heat up twice as fast as cast-iron "brothers," despite sharing the same heat-transfer characteristics. Sectional tubular batteries and monolithic panels are the two varieties.

Cast iron products are "copied" in design by tubular models. They are divided into sections as well. One advantage of installing steel heating radiators is that you can always change the number of registers in a single unit and swap out a malfunctioning or clogged element for a new segment.


The product’s name implies that two metals stand in for the case’s structure. The bimetallic radiator’s foundation is a steel tubular frame with vertical channels connecting two horizontal tubes (collectors).

The entire structure is encased in an aluminum casing and wrapped like a candy. By avoiding its contact with an aggressive coolant, the radiator’s structure was able to be solved by utilizing aluminum’s high thermotechnical characteristics as efficiently as possible.

With their hands, a home master can install bimetallic devices by grasping all the instructions’ points. Nearly all manufacturers typically supply it along with their goods. The old heating batteries are typically replaced without relocating the hot water supply pipelines because bimetallic radiators are easy to install. You can attach the radiator to the heating contour without welding by using drills or adapters.

Cast iron

Made of cast iron, the first heating batteries were created. The use of this metal in the creation of heating devices is still relevant today. Contemporary cast-iron radiators are elegantly designed and work well with the opulent interiors of mansions and magnificent institutions.

The traditional method of producing cast-iron batteries has been maintained in Russia. In use, they are modest and inexpensive. They serve a variety of functions in public and production settings, where it is irrelevant how the devices look.

The sectional structure allows the battery to be retrieved from two or more registers, depending on the number of registers. You can add or remove the section in the radiator. As a result, they fix or modify the operation of heating equipment.


One of the more costly metals that is a great thermal energy conductor is copper. In terms of efficiency, copper heat exchangers are unmatched by radiators made of other materials. Copper devices have a minimum 30-year service life.

The water intakes of the coolant are repelled by the internal copper surface of the collectors and vertical tubes, which preserves the integrity of the water conduit gaps. Corrosion completely indifferently affects non-ferrous metal.

One of the features of installing copper heaters is the way the battery is fastened to the heating system’s pipes. Use special fittings, drives, and adapters to accomplish this so that copper does not come into direct contact with iron. Polypropylene pipes require a specific set of fittings to be connected to them.


In the Russian market for heating equipment, plastic radiators are new. These are test models with an 80 0 C maximum heating temperature. Additionally, the heating system’s coolant’s limiting pressure is restricted.

Three atm should be the maximum. Devices for autonomous heating systems in private homes, suburban cottages, and cottages are made to function with plastic pipes. Because radiators come in a variety of colors, it is possible to give the interior of the building an exceptionally lovely flavor.

Materials and tools necessary for installation

A specific tool and a few consumables are needed for an independent, competent installation of heating radiators. Regarding the former and latter, their sizes and species are determined by the heating device models chosen, the way they are connected, etc. In any case, the required set of instruments and supplies will undoubtedly be needed for the installation of radiators.

Maevsky crane or automatic air vent

The air he caught finds its way into the radiators as the coolant circulates through the heating system. This typically occurs at the end of the warm season, when the heating system is turned on. If air traffic jams are not removed, hot water in the battery’s upper collector is prevented from passing through and stays cold.

Originally, standard taps were mounted atop the radiators. They assisted in the air discharge, which was accompanied by a significant water eruption. Modern heating batteries come with air vents screwed into them or Maevsky cranes installed.

A tiny tool called a Maevsky crane is screwed into a free hole on one of the upper manifold’s sides. Special adapters are used if the diameter of the crane is not the same as the size of the threaded entrance to the collector. The apparatus is wound with a seal. To stop the tap, twist it gently to the stop.

You release the air by unscrewing the handle or screw. The air flow’s direction can be altered by turning the rings. Up until a steady stream of water emerges, air is released. It’s crucial to let air out of the upper floor radiators in apartment buildings.

The float principle underlies the automatic air vent’s operation. When the air pressure in the float is applied, the nipple opens and the air traffic jam is totally removed from the radiator.

Experts claim that automatic machines are highly arbitrary devices that cannot tolerate tainted coolant. The central heating system’s automatic air vent gradually starts to operate. As a result, it is advised to use them in private homes that are automatically heated using pure coolant.


The four output holes on the lower and upper manifolds—two on each—are what make the heating batteries with the side connection universal. Depending on the connection scheme, two of them are working on feeding and reversing nozzles.

The third hole is where the Mayevsky or automatic air vent is situated. There is still a fourth hole, which has a threaded plug in it to "muffle" it. Using a wrench and winding (packley, sealing cord, or tape) on the thread, it is screwed into the collector’s hole.

Controversial reinforcement

Three different kinds of cranes are controversial reinforcement for heating radiators.

Ball. Used in two extreme configurations: "open" and "closed." They are positioned at the battery’s output and entrance. A metal ball that can be rotated and has a through hole serves as the tool for constipation relief. By using an external lever to turn it, they can fully open or close the direct flow of coolant.

Adhere. This circuit is conventional in nature, with a mobile rod situated on the same axis as the rotary head and overlapping the duct. In contrast to the ball device, the hot water passage’s speed can be adjusted, which regulates the battery’s level of heating.

Check valve. In one area of the heating system, a check valve valve stops the coolant from flowing out. Seldom are they employed in networks with centralized heating. They are most frequently utilized in extremely intricate autonomous heating systems.

How to install a heating battery

Radiators can be installed in two different ways to heat the space. The battery is hung on the brackets in the wall fastening version. The battery supports can have a variety of shapes and designs; what matters most is that they must be firmly fastened to the wall and strong enough to support the weight of the heating device.

Anchor bolts are bracket fasteners. They are utilized in masonry made of other materials, concrete, or brick walls (slag blocks, foam blocks, etc.). Certain supports function as brackets and anchor bolts at the same time.

The number of supports required for sectional radiators is set by standards. Brackets are installed between every six and sections for cast-iron batteries. The manufacturer of panel devices includes fasteners to attach the device to the wall from the rear.

Heating devices hindering rules

There are specific areas of the premises where heating products must be installed, and these are:

  • window sills;
  • extended mediocrine distances;
  • deaf walls in the corner rooms;
  • bathrooms, pantries and other utility rooms, related walls, which are external fences;
  • Intersective venues of stairwells and lobby of entrances.

Installation dimensions of the heating device

Based on standard installation sizes, the distances between the radiator and the surrounding structures are created during device installation.

The installation dimensions are indicated in the photo by letters. The maximum values of these parameters are shown in the table below.

Literal Value Normative
A 50 mm SNiP 3.05.01-85 p. 3.20
B Up to 400 mm – "- P. 3.24
C 300, 350, 400, 500, 600 and 800 mm GOST 8690-94 p. 4.1
D From 100 mm to 150 mm SNiP 3.05.01-85 p. 3.24
F From 100 mm 2 SNiP 41-01-2003 p. 6.5
L 25 – 60 mm SNiP 3.05.01-85 p. 3.20
H From 60 mm to 100 mm SNiP 3.05.01-85 p. 3.20
V No more than 1500 mm SNiP 2.04.05-91* p. 3.52

Installation of floor heating devices

It should be mentioned that there are floor radiators in addition to wall devices. The majority of these are low devices set beneath panoramic windows and tall cast iron batteries decorated with ornaments.

These products’ legs are sometimes fastened to the ground to stop them from shifting at random.

Whether you’re installing heating radiators in a home or an apartment, we’ve broken down the process into easy-to-follow steps in our guide. Everything will be covered, including where to put your radiators and how to connect them to your heating system. You can ensure that your home stays warm and comfortable throughout the winter months and save money on professional installation by grasping the fundamental concepts and adhering to our simple instructions. No matter if you’re a do-it-yourself enthusiast or just starting out, our guide will provide you the confidence to install heating radiators successfully.

Heating radiators strapping schemes

The three primary battery connection schemes are collector (radial), two-pipe, and single-pipe.

Two -pipe

When coolant enters one pipe and exits another, the plan calls for a parallel connection. This is currently the most preferred method of connection.

Based on this, the following kinds of connections:

  • lateral;
  • diagonal;
  • lower (upper);
  • Sedel.

Lateral in nature. The side connection scheme is the most widely used and practical. Coolant flows through the radiator as it enters from above and cools down. One side of the battery has the feed and return taps. There is no heat loss with this plan.

Perpendicular. When coolant enters the device from one side, this is an option. After going through every cavity in the battery, it exits the panel from the other end below. The fact that heat loss with this connection method is limited to 5% is an advantage.

Lower (higher). The feed and return with this connection scheme come from one side below. This method has the benefit of allowing the supply pipes to be positioned beneath the floor or beneath the baseboard.

This option’s significant 15–20% heat loss is a drawback. The receiving and output pipe of the upper connection is different because it is situated at the top of the battery rather than the bottom.

Sedel. The lower batteries in the saddle connection diagram are situated on the opposite sides of the radiator, which is a difference from the earlier connection method. The coolant can pass completely through all of the device’s cavities thanks to the placement of its entrance and exit.

Collector (beam)

Heating pipes that are wired for radiation use a two-pipe battery connection system, but with separate eyeliners and the return for each heating device. Two collectors are used to accomplish this; the first distributes the coolant through pipes, and the second gathers the return pipes.

Features of the connection of batteries in apartments

When the newly constructed home is turned over to the client, the whole heating system needs to be approved by the management company’s host and adhere to SNiP standards. In essence, each apartment in the entrance has a single heat meter installed. The cash costs for one square meter are determined by the rate of thermal energy consumed. Useful area of housing.

Homeowners frequently make the mistake of agreeing to have new devices installed without consulting a heat supply organization when replacing outdated heating batteries with new radiators. In these situations, renters set the heating panels and batteries astronomically large in an attempt to maximize the heating effect on their property.

Every twist should be executed carefully and without exaggeration. It is important to make sure that the connected parts are applied straight during assembly.

Step -by -step instructions for installing a bimetallic battery

  1. Marking is made on the basis that the distance from the floor and window sill to the device should be at least 100 mm. On the deaf wall, the battery should be \ at an equal distance from the door and the corner of the room.
  2. The gap between the radiator and the wall should be at least 30 mm. This distance is provided by the shape of the seat on the bracket.
  3. Based on the standard fragmentation, measure this distance down for the lower brackets.
  4. A laser level beam is brought to the wall alternately for the upper and lower markings.
  5. Make preliminary markings for screws, applying brackets to the wall.
  6. Screwed with screws are screwed with self -tapping screws first, then the upper supports. In the brackets there are longitudinal openings for screws, they make it possible to finish the installed battery to the horizon.
  7. The battery is first brought on the lower supports, and then hung on the upper brackets.

  1. Applying the level to the upper surface of the device, it controls its horizon. Correct this parameter with a light displacement of up and down the sides of the radiator due to longitudinal grooves in the brackets.
  2. A nut is screwed into one of the upper holes, a shut -off valve is in it, and a second crane is installed from the opposite side from below.
  3. Installation of locking cranes of the diagonal battery connection scheme
  4. In the free upper hole, the sequentially landing nut is screwed and Maevsky crane, the lower passage is closed, screwing the plug.

Features of connecting the heating radiator to polypropylene pipes

The polypropylene supply and reverse pipes are connected to it after the heating batteries have been hung and terminated. You’ll need a set and a plastic pipe welding machine to accomplish this. The lower figure displays the connection diagram for the polymer pipes and metal radiator.

  • 1 – coupling;
  • 2 – ball crane;
  • 3- transition clutch from metal to polypropylene;
  • 4 – connecting polypropylene ring;
  • 5 – polypropylene pipe of the heating system.

Prior to attaching the ring to the supply pipe, weld it with a transition clutch. Using a wrench, the other connections are removed. Through nuts, washers, and drives are used to connect to metal pipes.

Installation Location Binding Patterns
House Typically, radiators in houses are installed along exterior walls, beneath windows. This is because windows tend to be the coldest part of a room, and placing a radiator there helps counteract the cold air coming in. The usual pattern involves placing radiators under each window, ensuring even heat distribution throughout the room.
Apartment In apartments, the installation of radiators might vary depending on the layout and design of the space. However, a common approach is to place radiators along exterior walls or in areas where heat is needed the most, such as living rooms and bedrooms. The binding pattern often follows a similar principle to houses, focusing on providing warmth evenly across the apartment.

Doing your own heating radiator installation can be a satisfying project for homeowners trying to increase the comfort and energy efficiency of their house. Whether you live in an apartment or a house, knowing the fundamentals of installing radiators will help you control your heating system better and save money.

It’s important to familiarize yourself with your heating system’s layout and make sure you have the required tools and materials before you start. A successful installation can be ensured and common pitfalls can be avoided with careful planning and preparation.

It’s crucial to adhere to binding patterns when installing radiators to guarantee uniform heat distribution throughout your house. Radiator placement and spacing should be done correctly to avoid cold spots and provide effective heating, which will ultimately reduce your energy costs.

It’s crucial to correctly size radiators for your space, whether you’re installing new ones or replacing outdated ones. While oversized radiators can result in wasteful energy use and increased heating expenses, undersized radiators may find it difficult to heat your home sufficiently.

Lastly, if you have any questions concerning any aspect of installing a radiator, don’t be afraid to ask an expert. Radiators can be installed by the homeowner, but it’s important to put safety first and make sure your heating system works well.

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Michael Kuznetsov

I love to create beauty and comfort with my own hands. In my articles I share tips on warming the house and repairing with my own hands.

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