How to waterproof a shower room without a shower tray

Ensuring adequate waterproofing is crucial when designing or renovating a shower room. There are other ways to create a watertight space, even though conventional shower trays have long been the preferred option for holding water. This post will discuss waterproofing a shower room without using a shower tray.

Keeping water from seeping into the surrounding areas, like the floor and walls, is one of the main concerns when waterproofing a shower room without a tray. It’s essential to use efficient waterproofing techniques to prevent potential damage and mold growth if there isn’t a barrier to contain the water.

Using a waterproof membrane is a common way to create a waterproof shower area without a tray. These membranes, which are usually composed of rubber or PVC, are put directly to the shower enclosure’s walls and floor. They serve as a barrier, keeping water from seeping into the structure beneath.

Using a liquid waterproofing system is an additional method of waterproofing a shower room without a tray. These systems are made up of membranes that are applied with liquid and evenly distributed across the floor and wall surfaces. They create a seamless, waterproof barrier that effectively confines water inside the shower area once they are applied and cured.

If you choose to have a shower room without a tray, you must also make sure that the sloping and drainage systems are properly implemented. Puddling and stagnant water can happen in the absence of a sloped surface to direct water towards the drain, raising the possibility of leaks and water damage. Water in the shower area can be effectively removed with the installation of a trench or linear drain.

In conclusion, while shower trays have traditionally been the preferred option for waterproofing bathrooms, there are other options as well. Without the use of a traditional tray, a waterproof shower area can be created by applying liquid waterproofing systems, waterproof membranes, and appropriate drainage.

Shower room without a tray with its own hands with a drain in the floor

First, measure the size of your shower. The bathroom’s area, material selection, and functionalities all influence size. Use a tape measure to make a mark. The stall should ideally be placed in the room’s corner for maximum convenience. The work on waterproofing and correct drain installation is emphasized by masters in their instructions on building a shower cabin by hand.

Step 1: Install the concrete mold where you want it in the room. Boards or a prefabricated box-shaped frame are needed. Composed of 5×10 cm boards, it is assembled.

Installing the waterproofing is step two. A rubber membrane works well. It is placed on the mold’s bottom. The membrane’s ends ascend the wall to a 20-cm height. From the corner, secure the cloth. Extend it and give it some stretch. Use a stapler or nails to firmly attach to the board. Additionally, the fasteners are 20 cm above the mold’s bottom.

Step 3: Setting up the drain aperture. Make a circular incision where it is intended. Its dimensions line up precisely with the drain’s. We install the drain plate at the designated location. Bolt it in place. After that, install the drain. It should be sealed with protective tape prior to any concrete work.

Create the cement mortar in step four. It is prepared in accordance with the guidelines found on the cement package. You can purchase a ready-made cement mixture to make the work easier. The concrete thickness at the mold’s walls is 6 cm, and it is no more than 3 cm where the drain is installed. Using a trowel, level the cement mortar surface. Permit the layer of concrete to dry.

Step 5: Applying the final coat of paint. Tile or porcelain tiles work well for this kind of application. Tiles can be chosen in any size or color.

Picture 5: A shower cabin with a floor drain and no tray that you can empty by hand

Areas that must be waterproofed

A complete and superior waterproofing of the shower cabin will enable you to prevent issues related to phenomena like dampness, mold and fungal infections, etc. The best course of action will be to carry out waterproofing projects in the restroom and the cabin. This initial task can be completed on your own since there won’t be any problems if you know what you’ll need. Let’s discuss it. Let’s begin with the regions where waterproofing is required. The majority are locations that are in close proximity to water.

Design of the wall and floor waterproofing device.

First of all, the bathroom’s floor and walls are affected by this. A high standard of waterproofing should be applied to them. is done with a 20 centimeter overlap on the wall. The lowest value is this. This is because the areas most susceptible to water intrusion are the joints where the wall and floor meet. The wall could deteriorate if it is in constant contact with the water environment.

The remaining areas are located in the moist zone. As a result, the shower cabin needs to be waterproofed all the way around the walls, encapsulating the space roughly 20 cm above the shower. However, it is preferable to spend the money and complete this work throughout the wall’s height, up to the ceiling, in order to ensure the quality of the waterproofing.

Additionally, the area surrounding the bathtub and sink (washbasin) needs to be well insulated against moisture intrusion.

And now for the best material to use as a waterproofing agent.

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Waterproofing material

The right building materials will need to be prepared and purchased for such labor-intensive work. With the aid of liquid coating, paste, or roll materials—which are typically utilized in the treatment of rooms with high humidity index—you can waterproof the bathroom by hand.

Liquid caulking materials are the most popular among experts.

• liquid coating material;

Materials for liquid sheathing include:

Technical specifications of waterproofing materials are listed in a table.

1. Bituminous mastics. The advantage of bituminous mastics is their versatility and unpretentiousness to the quality of treated surfaces. Such qualities help to save time for preparatory work and even speed up repair work associated with them. Bituminous mastics are divided into the following types: bituminous-polymer and bituminous-rubber mastics.

The most popular kinds of coating materials that repel water are these mastics. To increase the elasticity of the coating material, oxidized bitumen is used in their production along with different modifiers, fillers, and organic solvents. High base adhesion and active resistance to aggressive impact are the obvious benefits of such mastics.

Plan for building a cabin.

It is common practice to waterproof walls next to sinks, bathtubs, and showers using bituminous mastics. Once the water-repellent layer has completely dried, a screed should be applied on top of it right away.

1. Cement-polymer mastics. Lining waterproofing is successfully performed by means of cement-polymer mastics, which are produced on the basis of mineral fillers and a mixture of cement. Bonding of one-component compositions is carried out on the basis of the use of water, and two-component are bonded with a special emulsion, which is produced on a polymer basis.
2. Cement-polymer one-component mastics already have in their composition water-repellent components. And two-component such properties are acquired gradually, after adding a special emulsion to their composition. These capping materials are similar in viscosity and consistency to melted plasticine, so it is desirable to apply the mixtures in two layers. Coating mastics have high adhesion rates, which means they can be easily applied to flexible and rigid bases. It is important that cement-polymer mastics are particularly resistant to high temperatures and are perfectly combined with a warm floor system.

• paste or roll material.

The categories for rolled material are:

• spreadable;
• self-adhesive.

Installation of roll materials requires a special torch, which is not always available, and it is not very convenient to work with it in a tight room. But the main disadvantage of this material is the high requirements for the working surface. The unevenness of the working surface should not exceed 2 mm, and the presence of sharp chips is inadmissible at all.

If not, the film will tear, causing damage to the waterproofing system as a whole. Because of this, the surface must be thoroughly cleaned, primed, and free of any remaining materials before beginning to apply glue. The waterproofing material can then be applied.

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Types of sealants

Applying unique tools known as sealants is how the sealing procedure is completed. They can be purchased as a highly dense paste that is used to seal the joints between different types of surfaces. The material in question is made up of polymers with an adhesive foundation. They just fill the void and adhere the surfaces together once they have dried.

There are now two types of sealants that you can use:

• based on silicone;
• acrylic.

The latter are nearly impossible to use in showers and bathrooms because of how humid these areas are. Furthermore, acrylic is simply subjected to its action, which causes it to break down and slowly deteriorate as it dries. This is the reason different types of water-resistant substances are added to acrylic pastes. However, silicone is more durable than acrylic even in this regard.

Silicone is considered the best solution that is on the market at the moment for two reasons: it calmly reacts to the impact of water, and also reliably covers all holes and openings. Therefore, most masters believe that it is better to apply in the described case silicone sealant. But it is also necessary to know how to choose it. The main purpose of such a composition is to create a reliable barrier to prevent the penetration of moisture. Given that the consequences of its penetration can then result in serious expenses, it is better not to save on sealant from the very beginning. The fact is that some low-quality compositions of this type can quickly lose their waterproofing properties, and after some time the work will have to be done again.

You must familiarize yourself with the composition, as stated on the label, in order to decide whether the sealant is a quality sealant up until the point of purchase and subsequent use. A version with at least 45% hydrophobic filler, 45% silicone-based rubber, plasticizer, and a variety of additives including fungicides, catalyst, and thixotropic agents will work best for the shower cabin. When creating joints and sealing such areas, it is best to select sealants from reputable manufacturers whose products have already demonstrated their high quality.

Nowadays, special sealants from companies like Somafix, Stern, or Antia are the most popular. Transparent aquarium silicone is another fairly universal solution that works well for sealing plumbing connections as well as joints with walls or tiles.

In renovating a shower room without a traditional shower tray, ensuring effective waterproofing is crucial. Without a tray, water can easily seep into the floor, leading to structural damage and mold growth. To waterproof the space effectively, focus on key areas like the walls, floor, and seams. Utilize waterproofing membranes or liquid waterproofing products to create a barrier against moisture. Pay attention to proper installation techniques, ensuring thorough coverage and sealing around penetrations like pipes and fixtures. Additionally, consider incorporating sloped floors and proper drainage to direct water away efficiently. By prioritizing these steps, you can successfully waterproof your shower room without a tray, maintaining a durable and moisture-resistant space for years to come.

Rolled waterproofing

Using waterproofing rolls is thought to be a sufficiently good solution.

This will result in a significant reduction of all costs.

The following steps must be taken if you select this option:

1. Level the floor.
2. Cut the cloths taking into account the possible overlap on the walls (about twenty centimeters).
3. Apply solar oil to the cloth, which will increase its elasticity.
4. Apply bituminous mastic to the surface, installing the first layer of waterproofing material.
5. Lubricate the finished surface with heated mastic.
6. Pour quartz sand for optimal adhesion of the screed and insulator.

But it’s important to remember that these materials have a limited shelf life. If bubbles appear on the roll cloths, they can be cut with a sharp knife and then pressed down with maximum pressure once more.

It is important to note that waterproofing won’t work without a regular ventilation system in place, just as applying a protective film to wallpaper won’t eliminate moisture.

The sole purpose of insulation materials is to keep water out of the walls and floor slabs. Water evaporates from the shower room when it is dry. It is advised to set up the ventilation so that the shower room is totally dry and humidified air is drawn in.

Video

Shower room design peculiarities

The shower’s uncomplicated exterior without a tray conceals a sophisticated mechanism. In order to meet all the requirements (floor drain in the bathroom, waterproofing, proper slope), a minimum 150 mm height reserve is required. Even though the floor level should be lower than in other rooms, this is still the case. It is preferable to include this requirement in the house’s design; if not, it will be required to raise the floor and create a curb around the shower’s perimeter.

Floor installation ↑

Beneath a tidy layer of ceramic tiles is a real "pie," each level serving a crucial purpose.

A concrete base makes up the bottom layer and supports the entire structure. The dense foam or polystyrene foam insulation is then laid down. After that, there are two screed layers with waterproofing in between.

Crucial! When building a shower room without a shower tray, waterproofing is essential. It is especially crucial for apartments in multi-story buildings because it keeps neighbors from being flooded from below.

Flooring in shower rooms

The configuration of the shower room floor

The drainage pipe is connected to the general sewerage system, and the drainage drain is placed in the appropriate location on the concrete base. There should be a 3% slope on all sides of the shower if the drain is placed in the middle. Maintaining a 2% slope is necessary if the shower drain in a room without a tray is situated in the corner.

Areas of special attention ↑

The shower room’s other surfaces, in addition to the floor, also require adequate waterproofing. The ‘wet areas’ consist of:

• joints between the wall and the floor;
• lower part of the wall;
• the area on the wall that is prone to water ingress during showering;
• pipes that collect condensate, and places where they are tapped into the foundation.

Since these surfaces are thought to require extra care, waterproofing material is applied with great caution.

Wet and humid sections of the shower

We recommend the following for the waterproofing of shower walls

– Elastopaz paste. The substance is appropriate for treating the walls and floors; tiles, screeding, etc., can be installed over this waterproofing layer.

– primer, or primer combined with the mastic. First, primer makes mastic stick better to concrete or other substrates. Furthermore, it functions as an extra layer of penetrating waterproofing. Water-based bituminous polymer primers "PazPrimer" and "Technoprok" are available for purchase from our company.

"Penetrating Sealcoat" plus "Expanding Sealcoat." These two substances cooperate. They are used to waterproof the shower room’s floor, even the areas between the tiles.

Combining "Elastopaz" with primer for the floor and "Penetrating Fillingsol" with expanding fillingsol for the floor is also an option.

ELASTOPAZ Liquid Rubber (Pazkar, Israel)

Expanding Sealcoat

How to properly waterproof a shower, either with or without a tray

First and foremost, remember that the shower floor should be lower than the floors in the other rooms in the house or apartment. In the event that lowering the floor level is not an option, a high threshold in the doorway should serve as a natural barrier in case water spills.

So, the order of actions when installing waterproofing will be as follows

1. Remove debris, dust, plaster residues, etc. from the surface.д.
2. Expand the joints of walls and floors, as well as the joints of panels and slabs up to 2-2.5 cm. Longitudinal grooves and corners are wetted with water and filled with "Expanding Fillingsol".
3. All surfaces (floor, walls, ceiling) and corners are treated with antifungal solution.
4. Clean dry surface for waterproofing in the shower (walls, floor) is primed with primer with the flow rate indicated on the package.
5. The primer should dry completely.
6. Elastopaz mastic is spread on the primed surface. Recommended mastic consumption 2.0-3.0 kg/m². The compound is applied in two layers: the second layer after the first layer has dried completely.
7. The walls are covered with mastic to a height of at least 30 cm from the floor level. Most often, experts recommend treating the walls completely, as the mastic creates not only a hydrobarrier, but also works as a vapor barrier.
8. Locations of communication outlets are additionally reinforced, e.g. with geotextiles.
9. When the second layer of waterproofing is completely dry, you can start finishing work.

Materials for the stall

It’s important to consider the materials that will be used to construct the walls when designing a shower stall without a tray.

• Plastic. Looks beautiful and makes the whole construction light and transparent. Plastic walls will last a very long time. In addition, they are very easy to care for, and the material can be purchased at an affordable price.
• Glass – the material most commonly used for stalls without a tray. The glass surface can be transparent, matte or combined. Modern sashes can be iridescent or colored, which significantly expands the possibilities for the design of the room.

Such cabin doors can be painted or made of regular glass.

• Glass blocks – is the most universal option for a bathroom stall. By installing a glass block, you can divide the space in the room and allocate a zone for comfortable showering.
• PVC curtains are used for outdoor cabins. They are quite dense and do not allow water to pass through, and are used only during showering. The cost of curtains is low, so periodically they can be updated, creating a new interior of the room.

Tiles can be used to cover the walls and floor, shielding the surface from water droplets.

General tips for making a shower stall without a tray

There are no issues when facing the room’s walls because the technology is standard and not any different from that which is commonly used. There could be some challenges when setting up the floors. Although every kind of drain has unique characteristics, there are general guidelines that apply to all of them.

1. Optimal slope of the floor surface is 1 cm per linear meter. If the slope is greater, the comfort of taking water procedures is significantly reduced, the risks of injury increase. The slope of the floor towards the drain should not be too strong
2. The smaller the size of the floor tile, the easier it is to work with it. Note, not faster, but easier. The fact is that during the finishing of the floor with a slope at the corners of the tiles appear inconsistencies, the size of the inconsistencies has a direct relationship with the size of the tiles. Experienced professionals strongly recommend the use of mosaic tiles, with its help you can join areas with different angles of inclination. And such situations arise when, for various technological reasons, the water drain can not be installed exactly in the center of the shower room. Mosaic tiles on the floor of the shower cubicle
3. The water drainage system is in most cases inaccessible for periodic maintenance and repair work. In this regard, it is recommended to be very attentive to its installation, precisely follow the recommendations of manufacturers, several times to check the tightness of connections. When installing a drainage system, you need to exercise maximum care and responsibility
4. It is much better to start tiling from the drain. If you do it in the opposite direction, the drain may be in the middle of the tile, it is impossible to cut an even hole in this place. You will have to join sections, and this is very ugly and indicates the low qualification of the performer. Tiling starts from the drain hole
5. Always buy building materials with a reserve, depending on the qualification of the contractor and the complexity of the configuration of the room, the reserve varies between 5-10%. Use only quality materials, attempts to excessive savings can cause significant material losses. It is worth using the highest quality materials for finishing

Water is released into the channel or drain. The channel is mounted up against one of the shower room’s walls, and the drain is positioned roughly in the middle of the space. We’ll take a look at the most popular type of shower without a shower tray, where the drain is situated in the center of the shower area.

The shower cubicle’s drain

Shower drain Viega

Table: Shower Drain Types

Stainless steel drains for sewer drainage

Shower cabins in the interior

The availability of open space, ergonomics, and lightness are the hallmarks of stylish modern interior design. Because of this, designers have created compact, fashionable shower designs that do not require a tray. The practical shower box functions as a solid interior element because of the thin, transparent enclosures of the cabin, which are mounted on the bathroom floor.

A large room and a tiny bathroom are organized with a shower box without a tray. The range of models makes it possible to implement original interior design concepts.

Because shower cabin walls are typically composed of the thinnest transparent plastic, the design appears light and airy.

An important advantage of the shower box without a tray – it requires minimal space for its installation.

In addition to fulfilling its intended function, a shower without a tray will elegantly redesign the bathroom’s interior.

Manufacturers of shower stalls typically use clear or naturally frosted glass for the partitions. There are no water droplets left on the glass surface after taking a shower. You can outfit the shower stall with plastic panels, block walls, glass blocks, etc., depending on the features of the bathroom.

Will design a unique interior shower box with double-strength glass partitions that have LEDs or lighting integrated within.

Modern designers often use shower cabins with lighting. The original layout may serve as a focal point in the design of the bathroom.

It makes sense to get in touch with designers to create a project because selecting the right materials is essential to making the shower stall look fashionable.

A unique floor covering will greatly enhance the shower box’s design. Ceramic tiles cover the cubicle floor; these tiles don’t have to match the bathroom’s walls and other surfaces in terms of style.

The shower box’s ceramic floor, lined with a contrasting mosaic, is a great option for modern interior design. Prior to beginning any facing work, the surface must be perfectly level.

The floor looks original in the form of mosaic, decorated with drawings or additional decorative elements.

Waterproofing a shower room without a tray

Since there is no tray, the shower is located in a different corner of the room with a connected water and sewage system. The floor does not rise above the general level and is rather level. A threshold that extends 5 cm above the floor is used to stop water leaks from entering the space.

The threshold needs to be prepared using cement that is resistant to moisture in order to ensure proper waterproofing. Applying protective materials to the makeshift "bowl," the threshold (on both sides at the same time), and the nearby walls

Concurrently, the floor’s insulation is constructed; the material must inherently ensnab a portion of the wall where a significant amount of water will congregate—sufficiently 20 centimeters.

The following is the action algorithm:

1. Initially eliminated from the working surface of all dust and dirt, this part is very important, otherwise the effectiveness and durability will be significantly reduced;
2. On the leveled and cleaned surface is applied mastic or roll material using a roller / brush;
3. Other wet areas are treated with the material: bidet, shower, toilet, sink, joints;
4. After the material has dried, a sump and a protective grate are installed on the pipe. It is not worth forgetting about the overlay of polymer to seal the joint. Silicone or bitumen is used for sealing.

It’s crucial! Applying material should be consistent; haphazard coverage frequently results in leaks. It is advised to apply parallel to a wall, and to lay the second coating layer perpendicular to the first.

Arrangement of a shower cabin without a tray

Which is better, channels or drains? For a shower without a tray, there are two different kinds of drains. The type selected will determine the future layout of the cabin, the shower’s height, and how the work is carried out.

There are several key reasons why water drainage is necessary:

• to avoid flooding of the entire bathtub, the formation of large puddles;
• Stagnant water is always accompanied by an unpleasant and musty odor;
• A damp environment and atmosphere will lead to the formation of fungus and mold.

It’s dangerous to set up a shower cabin without a standard tray because you run the risk of flooding both yourself and your neighbors.

Channels are the small, rectangular grooves that run parallel to the wall. These channels are larger and work well when the shower room is used frequently, allowing for quick water drainage. Shower drain systems come in a variety of sizes and configurations, and you can find them in stores.

The shower area’s center contains the drains, and all sides of the drains slope slightly in the direction of them. They collect runoff water and direct it into the sewer system via a pipe. These are little receptacles in various shapes; building supply stores carry a large variety of these items.

The installation of a good drain should come first before moving on to the cladding and shower installation. Water drainage is the top priority.

So you have chosen the type of drain. What to do next?

You have made gutters and surface preparations for the installation of channels, drains, and pipes.

1. Mark out the future drain.
2. Connect the ducts with traps and pipe to the sewer connection.
3. Check the installed drain: pour water into the grate.
4. The slope of the whole system should be at least 1 degree.
5. Temporarily cover the grate with foil, because now you will have to do the dirty work. Tile adhesive, mortar or putty must not get into the future drainage system.

Why floor waterproofing is so important?

You should not depend solely on surfaces for cladding. You may think it’s airtight from the outside, but that’s not the case. Moisture seeps through the micropores and seams, affecting the substrate. It will eventually start to fall apart. For this reason, it’s essential to ensure that the shower floor is properly waterproofed.

Waterproofing is done after the drain is installed:

• mastic is applied with a trowel or brush at the joints of the floor with the walls and other hard-to-reach places;
• The waterproofing roll material is laid on the plane: for example, rubber membrane or roofing felt. Ruberoid has a serious disadvantage: a peculiar odor of bitumen, which will haunt you for quite a long time.

A video showing how to properly waterproof a shower cabin

The screed is the finishing base for the cladding

The screed needs to be made with a slope toward the installed drainage system and cover the drainage system. Use regular cement-sand mortar, which can be easily smoothed with a trowel or pulled down with a small rule. The tiny shower area makes it impossible to install beacons in every situation.

For a minimum of three to four days, the screed should stand. Subsequently, a final waterproofing is needed, involving the same procedures as the initial one. Waterproofing tape is used to glue the joints, and waterproofing mastic is used to cover the surface.

Tiling

The ceramic tile installation on the walls and floor completes the shower stall’s tile device. For flooring, regular ceramic is suitable.

To make the flooring safer, choose tiles with a rough surface rather than one that is smooth.

You can find safe and non-slip tiles with a grooved surface in the building materials market.

Mosaic tiles can be used because maintaining a beautiful geometry is difficult and the slope will need to be trimmed. Vibrant mosaic will effectively conceal imperfections, and joint alignment issues won’t arise.

Without a pallet of tiles, start with the floor and work your way up to the walls, covering the seam between the wall and the floor with the bottom row of wall tiles. To keep moisture out of joints, silicone sealant should be used to seal all joints.

How to make a fence

If the bathroom is large, the shower stall will be enclosed with stationary brick or glass walls even before the floor arrangement begins. In this instance, the space inside the cabin may be sufficient to keep splashes from flying outside, negating the need for a door altogether. However, every square centimeter of space counts in a small bathroom, so it is preferable to have a sliding wall. The curtain is the easiest choice.

Glass walls that are fixed

When the stall is not in use, this type of fence can be easily removed by sliding it against the wall. The shower curtain must be hung, so you must install brackets with a rod. These hangers come in various models. They all have the same support brackets that are appropriately fastened to the walls, with a straight or curved rod positioned in between.

Glass doors and walls can be installed, which is a more sophisticated solution. You can purchase these fixtures ready-made or made to order. Usually, they come with metal or plastic profiles to attach them to the ceiling and floor. The manufacturer’s installation and fastening instructions must be followed. Typically, the slides used to move the sliding cabin door are also the profiles. The cubicle can be finished being assembled, at which point the door can be hinged and the glass installed.

Glass door and walls

You can design a cabin that will be convenient for the owners by selecting an independent shower device without the need to install a tray. This construction will prove to be just as aesthetically pleasing as pricey models of purchased sanitary ware, thanks to the extensive selection of fittings and finishing materials.

Wall damp-proofing

The shielding of the walls from moisture is another crucial factor in waterproofing the shower without a tray. The following actions are taken in order for it to be realized:

1. The wall is cleaned from sweat, old paint and other contaminants.
2. Surface imperfections (cracks, potholes, etc.), such as cracks, potholes, etc.) are sealed with an insulating compound, after which the entire wet area is treated with waterproofing material.
3. In places that will be exposed to the most moisture, two layers of waterproofing can be applied.

It is not required to waterproof the floor and walls using the same material. For the walls, polymer cement material can be used, and roll insulation can be placed on the floor.

Advice: The bathroom should have adequate ventilation because it is a space with high levels of humidity. A fan is fitted in the exhaust hole for dependable moisture removal; the fan’s power is chosen based on the room’s size.

Bathroom wall waterproofing

It is more difficult than it may seem to set up a shower without a tray. Surface processing needs to be done carefully because even a small area missed can have unfavorable repercussions later on. It is therefore preferable to leave this task to experts who have a lot of experience waterproofing different kinds of rooms and objects.

How to seal

To make the process of sealing with your own hands was carried out correctly, you should use special equipment, which is most often supplied with the sealant. This is a so-called gun, in which a capsule with sealant is inserted, and the force is transmitted from the trigger through a special design to the piston. This allows for the application of a sealed mass in an even layer without gaps along the entire joint length. But before doing this, it is necessary to degrease the surface, completely and very carefully clean it from particles of dirt and dust to ensure a reliable connection of silicone with the edges of the degreased surface. It will not be superfluous to apply and antifungal composition to exclude any formation of fungus or mold at all.

The following elements have an impact on solidification rate:

• The thickness of the applied sealant;
• temperature;
• the level of humidity in the room where the work is carried out.

In light of the last two considerations, it is essential to wait a while before using the restroom in order to prevent raising the temperature and humidity levels. Experts advise against using the shower for a while after the required area has been sealed. As mentioned, the best way to safeguard the joints while installing the shower stall is to use sealant with a silicone base. Compared to acrylic sealant, it is simpler to work with and has superior qualities. Additionally, the reasonably priced option suggests that selecting this kind of sealant is preferable.

If sealing is the next step, silicone shower cabins should be applied either after installation is complete (to all the formed joints) or during assembly (to each connection). Sealant must be applied carefully to areas that have previously been sealed using rubberized gaskets or cords. It is imperative to treat the joints so that the areas where the components are fastened to the structure using bolts or screws are on the outside of the sealant strip.

Sealing should be carried out according to the plan-instructions from the manufacturer, which describes the entire process clearly and step-by-step. And at each stage, silicone must be applied to all joints and junctions.

Joint processing needs to be done extremely carefully and cautiously. The material shouldn’t come into contact with the bathtub, shower box, or tray’s interior components. A tiny bit of sealant is sufficient for any corner. Painter’s tape can be used to cover some areas, especially those close to the gasket line, if you are unsure that you will be able to carefully siliconize the area. This will shield them from unintentional sealant penetration.

Once everything is finished, removing the tape is simple. A piece of tissue can be used to remove the fresh composition if you unintentionally stain an exposed area. It will be nearly impossible to remove the sealant after it dries without harming the surface.

It is important to make sure you perform a general external inspection of the shower stall after treating all of the internal joints with silicone or another sealant and assembling and fastening the structure with all of the fasteners. It must be closely inspected to make sure that there is no excess sealant on the outside.

If any such excesses are discovered, you should use a rag or piece of cloth to gently wipe them off.

Next, it is necessary to give the sealant time to dry. As a rule, its drying time is indicated on the tube. When it is completely dry, then it is necessary to check the construction for tightness. To do this, simply close the drain and draw water into the tray or on the floor to a certain level, and then drain it. During the dialing of water it will be possible to understand or the shower stall leaks in the most important places. If such a leak is found, then to eliminate it, it will be necessary to replace the already applied sealant with a new one. It will be pointless to use the sealant exactly in the places of leakage, as it will not represent a single clinging mass. Such a solution is temporary. But sooner or later, the leak will reappear in this place.

Shower cabin without a tray on the floor

One of the key decisions during the renovation of the bathroom in small rooms is the choice – bath or shower. The main criterion in the choice is the size of the bathroom. Each option has its advantages and disadvantages – a bath gives relaxation and body care, while a shower is more economical and takes up less space. However, a shower stall still requires a lot of space for a tray, so many people abandon it in favor of a bathtub, in which you can also take a shower. But modern solutions allow you to install a shower in large rooms as well as in small ones, because now it is possible to make a shower without a tray in the apartment.

Tray or linear drain (trap)

Having decided on a shower you may be faced with another dilemma related to the choice of a shower tray or drainage drain line. On the market we have at our disposal a wide range of trays, diverse in terms of size, depth and the material they are made of. They can be made of acrylic, steel, ceramic, composite or natural stone.

Shower traps beneath the tiles or plates in the floor surface will serve as an alternative to the tray. The linear drainage system makes it possible to design a shower floor without a tray. By doing away with the conventional tray, this solution makes it possible to have a single floor free of architectural obstacles like kinks and thresholds. Installing linear drains is becoming more and more common in our nation, having taken over markets in Europe. This solution gives the interior area a fresh look.

A shower drain is a type of drainage system installed in a tiled shower floor or in a specific plate.

Such a drain line is highly well-liked, has an amazing appearance, and lets you match the size of the bathroom area to the size of shower you can afford.

Shower stall without a floor-mounted shower tray

This shower surface, which has a built-in drain and is flat, has gained a lot of popularity recently and is now seen in many bathrooms.

Without a tray, shower cabins offer maximum comfort, a high degree of mobility, and elegant design. Without a tray, the floor-level shower creates a level surface with the floor, blends in well with the bathroom’s interior design, and is incredibly simple to clean.

Our unique approach to interior design or the unusual size of the bathroom encourage us to install a shower cabin without a tray, utilizing this brilliant idea from modern designers. How can you build a shower cabin with your hands without a tray? Not everyone can accomplish this; you must purchase and install a shower trap correctly. By doing this, you can ensure that your shower lasts for a long time without breaking or leaking by considering all pipe slope requirements and floor waterproofing.

The days of identical bathrooms and sanitary ware in every apartment are long gone. Instead, manufacturers have given us a plethora of options, allowing us to design our own solutions that meet our needs. This offers us a lot of options so we can find our own unique style. Shower cabins of any size or shape can be used with the trap system, or you can forgo the cabin entirely. An additional benefit is the bathroom’s apparent enlargement, as the shower and bathtub floors merge into one seamless piece.

The strip that serves as the foundation for linear drainage design can also be used as extra decoration. The water drainage system’s mechanism is concealed in the floor.

In order to guarantee the system’s seamless operation, it is crucial to create an appropriate slope.

It is crucial to install such a system in accordance with the fundamentals of sealed waterproofing. Water seeping under the tiles and beneath the drainage system’s surface must be prevented from entering the drain line.

Systems that are already assembled can be purchased and put together in accordance with the instructions. Apart from the drain itself, the kit includes all the components required for its installation. The materials used are guaranteed to be water-resistant during installation, which is quite easy. Certain models can also be antibacterial or non-slip.

As a result, contemporary technology opens up a wide range of new possibilities for the implementation of the most cutting-edge solutions, making housing more aesthetically pleasing as well as useful and convenient. Specifically, the way this article arranges the shower drain allows you to greatly reduce the amount of cleaning you need to do in your bathroom, improves the hygienic quality of the space, and enhances the ultra-modern design’s visual appeal.

The course of work when installing waterproofing

The shower cabin is situated in the bathroom corner, where the water supply and sewage connections are made, if it does not have a tray. The floor where the cabin is located needs to be level and not rise higher than the surrounding surface.

A 5 centimeter high threshold is built to stop water from leaking throughout the bathroom. It is advised to construct it out of cement. The walls of the corner and the floor of the shower "bowl" should both have protective materials applied. Simultaneously, the material used "overlapping" with the walls is applied to waterproof beneath the tiles.

In order to guarantee dependable protection against leaks, an overlap of 20–25 cm is advised.

The waterproofing layer in the shower cabin without a tray is made with the installation of the structure’s specifics in mind. The drain must be installed in the floor screed, which has a designated recess, in order to complete the installation of the cabin. All gaps are filled with concrete mixture after installation.

The work surface is first thoroughly cleaned to get rid of dust, cement shards, and other finishing materials. Following surface drying, degreasing compound is applied to the joints. Apply a thin layer of silicone mastic to seal.

The locations where pipes are attached to the floor require extra care. Using a spatula or a finger dipped in soapy water, the sealant is applied.

Self-adhesive cord is another option for hiding the joints, but it is not as good as mastic. Cement mortar should be used to widen and fill any cracks beforehand.

Rolls are stretched or mastic is applied after the preparatory work is finished.

You can use a brush or a roller to apply the mastic.

Applying the material in a sequential manner prevents leaks caused by chaotic overlapping.

As a result, it is advised to align yourself parallel to any wall. Applying the second layer perpendicular to the first one is done.

Installing the drain and the pipe’s protective grid comes next once it has dried. Polymer overlays are used to seal all connections.

How to make a shower cabin without a tray

If you have the right tools, you can build a shower cabin without a shower tray. You must decide on the design and draw up a project of the future cabin before you can begin construction.

Preparing the base

The base must be made accessible to the drainage system by first removing all floor tiles and screed before installing a shower cabin.

Then, take out any fittings that protrude and clean the surface of any dust and dirt. There must be level ground. Permit variations of no more than two millimeters. Put mastic insulation on the walls and base.

Drainage configuration

Drainage

The bathroom floor is level throughout, even in the section where a shower cabin without a shower tray is intended to be installed. Currently, the most common methods for draining water are employed, like channels or traps. Their job is to gather the liquid and move it into the sewage system.

Their design differs even though they have the same task to complete. Water is drained through a grate in channels and a lengthy gutter in drains.

In this instance, the floor will serve as a tray when installing a shower cabin. For this reason, it’s imperative to stop water from leaking everywhere in the space. The floor is constructed with a slope that faces the drainage side for these reasons.

Installation of bathroom floors

It is advised to create a slope on four sides that leads to the drain when selecting a drain and placing it in the center. Only in cases where the drain is situated in a corner can the slope be made on both sides. In this manner, a sort of sluice is formed, allowing the water to drain.

As installing the channel doesn’t take as much time or effort as installing a gangway, it will be beneficial to shorten the shower cabin’s floor device. When the channel is at the wall, there is only one side that has a slope. However, there is a slope created on both sides when the drain is installed in a corner.

These days, prefabricated drains and channels are readily available and can be quickly installed on polymer pallets. In this instance, the slope’s degree is already specified; the only tasks left are system installation and finishing.

Floor preparation

Prior to installing a shower cubicle without a tray in the bathroom, the floor must be waterproofed.

The floor is a crucial component of the design, so it is best to leave the preparation of this surface to skilled artisans. The following appearance is what the base ought to have:

• concrete screed;
• foam plastic. The thickness of the layer should be 5 centimeters, since the outlet is installed in it;
• waterproofing layer;
• Concrete layer with a thickness of at least 4 centimeters;
• tiling. You can use ceramic, mosaic or tiled tiles.

This is the only order that needs to be followed when laying the floor.

The shower cabin’s floor options

Crucial! Selecting a non-slip facing material is essential to prevent the floor from being traumatizing and slippery. These days, you can find these tile models in specialty stores.

Installing the slope and screed

You can watch a video that walks you through the process of installing a shower cabin without a tray on the floor and learn how to do the slope and screed correctly.

1. Mark the height of the screed on the walls with a level, taking into account the slope, it should be about 3-4% and completely cover the drainage system.
2. It is possible to fill the voids with expanded polystyrene boards, which will make the floor much warmer.
3. According to the marks fill the space with cement-sand mixture. Gradually it is necessary to tamp it and add a new portion.
4. Level the surface with a trowel.

After that, let the mixture harden for three to four days.

Final insulation

The final waterproofing is a crucial component of work when assembling a shower cabin by hand without the use of a pallet.

1. Smear the surface of the walls and screed with mastic at a level of 15-20 centimeters from the base.
2. All the boundaries of the drain hole, the joints of the walls and the floor also glue a special insulating tape.
3. Apply a layer of mastic on top of the self-adhesive tape, covering the walls and substrate.
4. Mount the grate.

It is not necessary to remove the protective film around the drain until the tile-laying process is finished.

Facing

It is required to adhere tiles to the walls first, followed by the floor, if the floor was constructed with a slope.

When sloping toward the wall, tile tiling is not too difficult. However, the tiles will need to be cut at a specific angle when the floor slopes toward the center. However, using a tiny mosaic is preferable in this instance.

The floor needs to be sealed with silicone sealant once the tile installation is complete.

Installing a drain

If you plan to build a shower cabin without a tray, you must first complete the drainage system installation. Go to the trap’s device to install the drain. The drain is made up of a locking siphon, a decorative grid, and a body with an oblique outlet. To maximize water flow, the drain should ideally be positioned in the center of the shower cabin with a small incline at each corner. You can pick a different location if the pipes’ current location presents problems. The next video demonstrates how to slope the shower cabin’s floor.

Keeping the screed in mind, the main body is lowered a few centimeters below floor level. Include the floor covering’s thickness in this as well. A unique elastic profile is used to seal the spaces between the ladder and the walls, and water-resistant glue is applied from above to firmly coat it. The cabin’s central opening, where the water exits, has a maximum 3% slope. If you are unable to construct a slope, a curb that is roughly 10 cm high is placed outside the shower cubicle to keep water off the floor.

Places of insulation

Plan for waterproofing the shower tray in the cabin.

It is important to consider that certain areas of a bathroom will always be more vulnerable to the damaging effects of water during installation. This covers the joints between the walls and floors. They need to be completely waterproofed.

At least 20 cm of insulation should be placed between the floors and the wall slabs. This is because the concrete wall’s deterioration starts at the joints where the floor and wall meet, which are the areas most susceptible to moisture.

The shower stall itself needs to be waterproofed 20 centimeters above where the shower head is attached, but it’s best to seal it all the way to the ceiling to prevent unanticipated events. It is recommended to insert the waterproofing material at least 0.5 meters beyond the cabin walls when waterproofing the side walls. Riser with pipes are also added to wet areas. The wet zone can be designated for the remaining surfaces.

Returning to the contents table

The base for the shower enclosure

Prior to anything else, the surfaces must be cleared of any dirt. Dust should be gathered using a vacuum, and all debris should be removed.

The tray’s drain must then be installed, and the plug’s seams need to be sealed with a moisture-resistant material. The floor must then be leveled in order to install the cabin. If not, a sizable amount of insulation material might be wasted.

Plan for shower cabin installation and sealing.

Polystyrene foam boards, which insulate the structure and shield the tray from capillary suction, are glued to the tray base.

After that, the shower tray screed is poured and a mounting grid is adhered to the polystyrene foam. All openings, corners, and edges are sealed with a sealing substance—such as liquid rubber—after it dries. The shower tray’s concrete screed is also coated with liquid rubber; it is best to apply it in multiple layers. The guidelines in the enclosed instructions should be followed for the necessary number of layers and drying time. Keep in mind that the composition is applied "crosswise" when applying the layers.

The shower cubicle can then be installed and the finishing materials can be adjusted. Water can be poured on the building to ensure that the moisture stays on the ground.

Returning to the contents table

Sealing the walls

Initially, all concrete and stone surfaces must be cleaned using a wire brush; additional cleaning and dissolving compositions may be required. Glass, plastic, and metal surfaces should be cleaned with an alcohol- or solvent-based liquid before being dried with a cloth. Adhesive tape is a better option to prevent contamination of areas next to the sealed joint, but it needs to be taken off right away once the work is done.

The treated surfaces shouldn’t be excessively hot or cold. They should have a temperature range of 5 to 40°C. The sealant-filled tube is warmed to room temperature. The instructions specify how to apply the product. It works better to use a spatula dipped in water to create a beautiful seam and scrape off excess silicone. The excess sealant needs to be removed right away because, depending on its composition, a film may form on its surface in as little as five to thirty minutes. The material cures at a rate of 2-4 mm per day on average when the temperature is 20°C and the humidity is 50%.

Only a dry surface should be used for all work. First, the shower cabin must be assembled following every step in the instructions: side walls must be installed, guide profile screws must be pre-fastened, the upper portion must be fixed, and the hose must be attached.

Sealant should be used to lubricate all joints and connections at every stage of assembly. To ensure that the sealant layer holds together during final assembly, make sure the screw and screw holes are on the outside.

Silicone-coated joints are screwed into place and allowed to fully dry. Using a rag, carefully remove any excess sealant. Waiting until the screed is completely cured is not required.

Next, sealing cord should be used to insulate the shower cabin from the outside. To enhance the waterproofing qualities of problematic areas, it should be inserted into the glass-adjacent frame locations and further treated with silicone.

Following drying, the structure is examined under high water pressure to ensure that all connections are secure. Should leaks occur, all leaking areas need to be reapplied with sealant.

If there are leaks, use sealant to reseal all of the leaking areas.

Only after the cabin is totally dry in the "problem" areas should this be done.

Waterproofing of the shower cabin with a tray

In the shower cubicle, the tray is a bowl that gathers and retains water. Installing a sewer connection and providing waterproofing are made simple by the use of a tray. In apartment buildings, this bowl must be used because the other ways are very challenging to operate.

• Of plastic – strong enough and cheap;
• from metal – high-strength bowls with high value;
• made of concrete – long installation process and difficulty of manufacturing in an apartment building.

The floor, walls, and locations of adjacent areas must all be treated in order to prepare the insulation for shower cabins with trays. The factory tray is installed in the ready location, which is typically the room’s corner. Lubrication is applied to the wall-contact areas. Rubber gaskets are used to help with sealing in other places.

The process of waterproofing a concrete shower tray is similar, but it’s important to use polymer cement because it prevents moisture from passing through.

If the cabin is not completely closed, but is adjacent to the wall, it is worth using penetrating insulation, so that water does not flow down through the gaps. It is desirable to lay tiles or do plastering with polymerized cement.

It is important to ensure that the sewer pipe is properly insulated if the unit is completely enclosed, as it shouldn’t leak. Using a regular rubber gasket won’t suffice for a high-quality connection; silicone or another sealant will work better. Waterproofing material must be applied to all joints, whether they are made of plastic or metal.

There are a few possible causes for leaks in the cabin: leaks in the wall, potentially created voids or improperly chosen materials, loose shower door or sewer pipe.

Penetron

Thus, we discovered that Penetron is a homegrown brand of waterproofing mixtures that has a Yekaterinburg research facility. When the mixture is applied to the surface to be protected—either automatically or manually—it has the consistency of liquid milk. Although the technology allows for wall wetting, it is automatically assumed that primer is not applied. Regarding its potential to interfere with Penetron’s setting, there is no trustworthy information available.

The mixture "penetrates deeply into the concrete and forms strong connections with hardened cement stone," according to the manufacturer’s statement. The resulting polymer matrix stops moisture infiltration by securely insulating a layer of varying thickness, depending on the properties of the wall and floor materials. Due to their great adaptability, some of the mixtures are advised for the repair of dams, swimming pools, and water reservoirs. It is now evident why so many people want to use Penetron to waterproof their shower cabin. Several essential characteristics of the completed structure are as follows:

Application of Penetron mix

1. Penetron will last for the entire long life of the concrete. Waterproofing is done once and for all.
2. Penetron can also be used for underground work. The technology provides for the application of several layers and a long drying period. The same can be said about most of the construction mixtures of this class.
3. Penetron successfully seals microcracks with a transverse size of 0.5 mm or less. This process is accompanied by increased growth of crystals in cavities. For more significant damage, Penekrit and some other products of the same concern are used.
4. Penekrit gains full strength within about three months, bringing the water resistance class to W20 (2 MPa pressure). After the first 28 days W14 is reached. For comparison – 100 kPa is equivalent to a pool depth of 10 meters, 1 MPa – 100 meters, and so on.
5. Treated concrete does not change any other properties besides waterproofing properties. This means that the surface can freely pass steam.

The company offers a variety of waterproofing materials that are easy for anyone to apply. You can accomplish anything with your hands. The manufacturer’s website has the most comprehensive instructions along with a training video. And our job is to think about how the typical consumer benefits from Penetronom sealing. And in the event that a shower cubicle without a shower tray needs to be waterproofed.

Dry construction mix weighing 5 kg costs roughly 1500 rubles. This covers a surface area of roughly 6 square meters. It’s easy to see that this covers the majority of the space in a small bathroom in a typical apartment. Waterproofing is not typically applied to walls beneath tiles, but if it is needed, one cabin will have enough material (pallet and a few walls up to 1.5 meters). When a 25 kg (31 square meter) container is purchased, a small discount is available.

We’ve already spoken briefly about the timing of applications. The work takes, at most, three days. After that, the product can start working, and for a further three months, Penetron will keep raising the concrete’s waterproofing grade. The surface will be strong enough to handle any hydraulic loads that come with a regular shower cabin after a few days.

How to make

If someone chooses to fix things themselves, they must handle this situation with extreme caution. Finding the wet areas of the room is the first step towards properly waterproofing the shower. The areas that water enters most frequently are referred to by this term. They need to be very carefully insulated. Various techniques can be used for waterproofing.

Rolled

• The first and most important stage is considered to be the installation of the drain.
• Then comes the preparation of the base. For this purpose, the surface is leveled with a cement screed. As soon as the mortar has hardened, bituminous mastic can be applied on top of it. Next, roll waterproofing is laid out, cut in advance into pieces of the required size.
• Strips of roll insulation are laid on each other with an overlap of 10-15 cm, as well as on the walls – up to 20 cm. To ensure that the transition of the material is correct, it is rounded with cement mortar. If in the shower room for a homemade shower tray used the clad insulation, then you need to bypass all the formed joints with a gas burner.
• If laying is done with self-adhesive roll insulation, the edges of the strips must be pressed very tightly together.

• Beforehand, the overlaps are smeared with special glue. The second layer of insulation is laid in the other direction and the whole process is repeated.
• Then it is necessary to check whether each layer has been glued properly. If there are bubbles in it, they should be very carefully cut and covered with mastic. Next, the bubbles are tightly pressed to the base and soldered with a torch. How many layers there will be, each owner determines for himself, but less than two layers should not be laid.
• In order to protect and level this multi-layered coating, a cement screed is poured on top, and only then tiles are laid.

Sheathing

For shower room insulation, bitumen-rubber and bitumen-polymer mastics can be utilized. They don’t require any preparation for independent work, and they are simple to apply to the surface.

Using a cement screed, the substrate must first be leveled. Working with mastic should only be done after the surface has dried and been cleaned and primed.

It is applied in layers up to 4 mm thick using a regular brush. Applying grease waterproofing to the walls, the floor, and the pipe surfaces would be appropriate treatments. There should be a layer that is resistant to moisture when the composition is completely polymerized. On top of it, a cement screed is applied to shield it from various damages. Once the mortar has dried completely, you can begin the finishing touches.

Polymer-cement

Waterproofing the shower and compositions made of polymer-cement is also feasible. They are exceptionally elastic and have a high adhesion. The application of cladding materials and insulation works share a lot of technological similarities. Consequently, all pointless actions can be skipped.

Penetrating

This insulation is deeply ingrained in the concrete substrate’s structure. As a result, the insulation layer is inside the concrete rather than on the outside. In other words, the concrete starts to act as a waterproofing material.

This is one of the simplest laying techniques to execute on your own. Brushing the mixture onto the previously cleaned surface after diluting it to a homogenous mass will suffice. Polymer mastic is applied to all joints and crevices after insulating compound has been used to seal it.

What is a gangway and how to choose one

One of the necessary components of the bathroom floor drain is a trap. This unique apparatus allows liquid to freely flow into the sewer pipe. Because of the way the system is built, it is possible to:

• Quickly and efficiently drain the waste water;
• filter the liquid, separating coarse impurities;
• prevent extremely unpleasant sewage odors in the room;
• to clean the drainage system.

There are two kinds of devices on the market: those that have a hydro trap and those that have a dry odor trap.

The system’s architecture permits the room’s sewage to drain quickly and unhinderedly, and it prevents the unpleasant stench from seeping into the space.

Dry-closure drain

Mechanical construction constantly has a tendency to take a position that shuts off the sewer pipe due to gravity. The mechanism comes in multiple forms, including membrane, pendulum, float, and a device that makes use of the material’s molecular memory.

On dry-sewer units, a non-return valve can be installed to make sure that sewage doesn’t enter the room.

Equipment with odor trap

Equipped with a water-filled tube that is curved in a specific manner. This is what makes sewer gases a barrier. The system’s primary drawback is the potential for drying out, which removes the hydroseal and allows offensive odors to enter the space. There are several potential causes of this phenomenon, including incorrect design, improper drain usage, warm floors, high room temperatures, etc. To prevent issues, the equipment must be regularly flushed with water.

The device’s dimensions are crucial in addition to its design elements. They determine how high the floor level will rise. You have the option of a standard 12-centimeter trap or an ultrathin one that is no taller than six centimeters. Another crucial factor is the device’s flow capacity. You must compare the volume of liquid that is fed into the drain with the maximum amount of wastewater that it can handle in order to ascertain it. You can obtain information about the second indicator from the sales consultant or from the technical documentation.

Certain types of traps come with check valves, which prevent sewage from ever getting inside the space.

Features pros and cons

Everyone wants to have a nice, comfortable bathroom.

Determining whether the necessary items are in the room is crucial in order to prepare for the repair of this space. If there is a lot of room, you can afford to create a gorgeous space with lots of options, including space for cabinets, drying, and washing.

It’s crucial to leave the most crucial element in place if the room’s dimensions prevent you from adding many elements.

In a tiny apartment, a shower cabin without a tray will be a true blessing. You can create it with your own hands. There are some subtle differences between this type of cabin and one with a tray that you should be aware of when choosing where to take a bath.

The following factors contribute to the design’s advantages without a pallet:

• visual increase in the size of the room;
• Creating an original design with a new construction;
• the convenience of using the shower, especially for children, people of age and people with health problems;
• ease of installation of such a cabin;
• bathroom cleaning convenience;
• does not require large financial investments.

The lack of a sump is made up for by a drain, which allows water to be quickly removed from the floor and into a drainage pipe. Raising the floor (if we are discussing an apartment) or planning this room ahead of time, considering the future bathing area, are required in order to create this drainage system.

There are several drawbacks to the shower stall without a tray that should be noted as well:

• in case of unprofessional and incorrect installation of the trap, the water will not be completely drained out of the stall, and it will be wet there all the time;
• If the stall does not have any sides, even the lowest ones, then after taking a shower and opening the doors, the residual water will flow out;
• In case of any breakdown of the drainage system there is a great risk of flooding the neighbors who live on the floor below;
• If the trap is installed incorrectly, there will be an unpleasant and stale odor in the bathroom.

For these reasons, professionals are typically called upon to assist with the installation of these cabins. If you have the desire to handle everything yourself, you should take your time when building; every step should be meticulously planned out and double-checked.

Installation technology

The base must be made correctly in order to install a shower stall; this will support any additional construction.

It is essential to correctly complete the base’s construction and tile it once the old flooring is removed and a new drainage system is put in place. While you are free to select the standard coating, it is advised that you use tiny mosaic tiles, which will make bathing much more enjoyable. Waterproofing is a crucial task for the bathroom, so it must be completed before moving on with the coating installation.

With a prefabricated base, it is crucial to assess its slope, which is determined at the floor screeding stage. The convenience of using the stall will be questioned if it is made incorrectly.

Once the base is prepared, the floor and lower portions of the walls—which will be in constant contact with water—need to be sealed with mastic in order to utilize the finishing insulation. Another layer of mastic should be applied to the joint between the floor and the drain after applying waterproofing tape.

In order to better shield the bathroom from moisture, the tile is laid in the bathroom starting from the walls rather than the floor. If the drain’s slope is in the far corner of the stall, laying on the floor won’t be too tough. However, if it’s in the center, the tiles will need to be cut to make sure they lay flat. To draw attention to this area within the stall, consider using a different colored tile.

After tiling every surface, silicone sealant is used to fill the spaces between the tiles.

The last step will be installing the cabin itself.

If you’re considering purchasing a shower stall without a pallet, it’s critical that you select one that works for you. There aren’t many options available.

• frameless type;
• The type that does not have profiles with a vertical location;
• base with a framework;

• stall profile under gold, copper, brass;
• glass and plastic connection;
• use of curtains instead of partitions;
• doors that have a sliding design;
• single opening doors.

The bathing area’s location and the cabin’s measurements are planned ahead of time, so the partitions are precisely the right size. Choosing the right color and texture during the planning phase will also ensure that the walls can be mounted safely after the base and tiling are completed.

A house is a better place to build this type of shower room than an apartment, but if you’re really motivated and skilled, you can build one yourself in a high-rise building. The installation of a curb-shaped fence will stop water leaks from the stall.

Materials for waterproofing the shower cabin with your own hands

The construction industry of today offers a wide variety of materials that make it very simple to create high-quality waterproofing. Make sure you are well-versed in the features and objectives of each option before making a decision.

Knowing the materials of the shower cabin’s construction, as well as the walls and floors of the bathroom, will help you make a better decision. Generally, one kind of waterproofing material is sufficient, but it is preferable to employ a variety of techniques that will be most effective for a specific bathroom and shower cabin area.

To prevent water leaks to the neighbors, rolled waterproofing is firmly adhered to both the floor’s surface and each other.

Every kind of waterproofing is conditionally classified into multiple groups. These are the following:

• spray-on version of waterproofing;
• in the form of polymer-cement compositions;
• waterproofing of a penetrating nature;
• roll material for waterproofing;
• elastic type of waterproofing.

Let’s examine a few of them in more detail. Let’s begin with roll waterproofing, which is the most traditional and tried-and-true technique. Shower rooms are equipped with this kind of waterproofing. Variants in its production include self-adhesive properties and filling techniques.

Spray-on waterproofing is an additional kind of waterproofing. In contrast to the last option, this one is more contemporary. It is created in the form of different bitumen-based mastics. Liquid rubber is another term for this waterproofing. Their good adhesion to the insulated surface, relatively long service life, and relatively high degree of elasticity can all be noted as characteristic properties. A cement screed is applied on top of this kind of waterproofing to increase its dependability even further.

Waterproofing compositions based on polymer-cement components fall under the same category. They appear to be a dry mixture that must be diluted with water later on. This choice works well for the shower room’s floor and walls. Such waterproofing maintains its high degree of elasticity, and no further screed procedure is required.

Mastics based on polymers are also thought to be a great choice, as they enable a high enough degree of waterproofing for bathrooms and showers. This material’s technology is more advanced and produces good results because the composition can deeply penetrate the treated surface when it is used.

Return to the contents table.

Waterproofing a shower room without a shower tray

Boundary walls are still necessary even in the absence of a tray.

Without a shower tray, what would a shower be? This is a different bathroom corner where the sewer hole for the water that drains from the floor is located and the plumbing outlet is installed. In this instance, the floor and the entire bathroom are at the same level. A 5 cm-high threshold divides the shower area from the rest of the room to keep water from leaking in.

We’ll assume by default that the floor has already been leveled and that a leveling screed has been applied; in the shower area, this screed should be made at an angle toward the water outflow. When waterproofing a shower without a tray, building a limiting threshold is the first step. You can use high-quality materials (brick, foam concrete) or create a batten and pour concrete into it.

You can then begin applying protective compounds. It must be handled:

• the bowl of the tray;
• threshold (completely on all sides);
• adjoining walls – if not tiled.

"Bathroom heater: wall, ceiling, floor" should also be read. In addition to these repairs, a thorough waterproofing of the shower room’s floor and walls around the bathroom’s whole perimeter must be carried out. Dusting off the work surface should be the first step. The quality of the preparation will determine how firmly the mastic and concrete adhere to each other. Next, using a roller or brush, the pre-made latex mastic is applied to the floor and the walls of any wet areas (such as the shower, sink, toilet, and bidet).

The shower room is waterproofed in a minimum of two layers.

Applying the material in even, parallel movements to one of the walls is preferable to doing so in a chaotic manner. Applying the second layer is similar to applying the first, but it should be done perpendicularly. This eliminates the chance that any particular place may have an unseen liquid loophole. A drain, or a mesh on the drainage pipe through which water escapes, is installed after the acrylic has dried. Usually, a polymer tab that seals the drainage system is included with it. All joints are sealed with bitumen or silicone sealant.

The membrane water hammer damper keeps the water supply and heating circuits from malfunctioning.

Learn how to locate and fix a leak in your heating system.

Pros

The shower without a tray gives the bathroom a sleek, contemporary appearance. It comes out as a lighter, more contemporary design. Additionally, the cubicle area can be made even more useful by adding sliding doors or curtains to the fence.

In terms of maintenance, installing a cabin without a tray is also convenient. The tray won’t need to be cleaned by housekeepers using various powders and gels.

In the bathroom, take a shower without a tray and cover the glass.

Not having a tray frees up room. The floor tiles beneath the shower become totally dry when it is not in use, giving the impression that the entire bathroom is empty. This design has a very contemporary and modern appearance.

Even if the shower cabin is constructed of the finest marble or acrylic, its durability is far greater than that of shower cabins with this exact tray.

Bathroom shower without a tray and glass dividers

The apartment’s tray-free shower is useful for elderly people who have trouble moving around and small children. They don’t have to get past the barrier; a little glass fence won’t get in the way.

It’s a fantastic choice for compact bathrooms. This layout contributes to a tasteful and well-thought-out spatial arrangement. The sliding ones will enhance the lovely, fashionable design; the most important things are to create a slope and a good drain.

In the bathroom, a shower without a tray and mosaic tiles

The absence of a shower tray in the shower cabin results in an intriguing, unique bathroom design. You will be able to impress your guests because it is not very common to install shower stalls of this kind. The newest styles in bathroom décor can be achieved with original sliding doors, glass curtains, or other types of fencing.

This shower has the benefit of having fewer drains and crevices than other showers, which reduces the opportunity for bacteria to grow. As a result, your bathroom will be safer and cleaner.

This is especially crucial when there are young children living there, even more so than having a secure cabin enclosure or good drainage.

A gray bathroom with a trayless shower

Tips

Helpful suggestions for setting up the apartment’s shower without a tray.

For the flooring of the cabin, choose a non-slip tile option. Smooth tile floors should not be used because water will make them excessively slick, making a trip to the bathroom risky. incredibly appropriate design featuring textured ceramic tiles.

Large shower without a ledge

You can install a shower in your bedroom without needing a tray. This is a good choice if you don’t want to walk through your entire house in the morning to take care of your hygiene. Those with disabilities who have trouble getting to the restroom can also use this option. However, in this instance, better drainage and more ventilation will be required in the bedroom to avoid moisture buildup. It won’t be unnecessary to have a sturdy fence with sliding doors or curtains.

In a bathroom that is beige and white, there is no shower tray.

If you wish to install a shower like this in your bathroom, make sure to consider both the design and the cabin’s dependable waterproofing.

This is crucial to ensure that water draining does not contaminate the floor’s communications or heating system, which could cause problems for both you and your neighbors.

It’s important to carefully plan this event before putting in a shower stall like that in the bathroom. By designing the cabin, you’ll be able to get rid of flaws and mistakes—which, in this situation, could be dangerous. To arrange the desired slope, the floor level must be raised in some way, which can be challenging in typical apartments. Furthermore, it is imperative to ensure adequate drainage.

The bathroom has a glass shower without a tray.

There should be a separate drain in the sewer system for any shower area installed without a tray in a private home’s bathroom. If your home is a multi-story structure, the cabin’s drain should be integrated into the main sewer system that serves your entire home. To prevent standing water and the development of an unpleasant odor, it is imperative to make sure that the drainage pipe has an adequate diameter.

The process of waterproofing of the cabin for a shower version with mastic

There are two layers of grease waterproofing applied. Drying completely takes 12 to 15 hours.

All of the surfaces that will need to be worked on must be very carefully prepared before any waterproofing work can begin. Clear them of dust, debris, and grime. Priming must then be done, and the area must be allowed to dry completely. If it’s a shower room, any existing fractures in the walls and floor should be fixed with a specific adhesive for ceramic tiles or a cement mixture, for example.

Keep in mind that the most crucial areas for potential water penetration are where you should begin manually waterproofing the bathroom or shower cabin. Naturally, these are the corner joints.

If at all possible, expand each corner and pack it full of waterproofing compound (mastic).

In the event that you bought a dry mixture, you must dilute it with water according to the recommended ratios. If mastic is available already made, you can get to work right away.

Work should be started from top to bottom. Additionally, when it comes to treating the floor from the wall across from the front door.

You will require a brush or an instrument like a trowel in order to apply the material.

It is recommended that the number of layers follow the guidelines provided by the manufacturer. The instructions that are enclosed contain this information. There, you can also learn about the drying time. Remember that the composition should be applied in a "criss-cross" pattern when applying multiple layers.

When professionals are asked how they go about manually waterproofing bathrooms or shower cabins, they will tell you that using a regular screed that is made with tile adhesive is not a dependable technique. Because this compound is not as moisture resistant as what is recommended for high-quality waterproofing.

Experts advise against trying to cut costs on waterproofing because you might end up with a lot of unpleasant and needless issues down the road that will cost extra money out of the blue.

Glue-on insulation

Roll-floating or self-adhesive materials are used to waterproof showers without trays. These include Stekloizol, Technonikol, Technoelast, and others.

Preparation of the substrate

The preparation of the base has a significant impact. If there are any floor cracks, bumps, or depressions, the surface needs to be leveled.

The material strips are already laid out on a special bitumen-containing mastic that is applied to the mortar after it has hardened.

To ensure that the rolls adhere tightly to the surface, it is crucial to roll them out ahead of time, cut them to the appropriate length, and allow them to rest. Placing the substance

Laying the material

The strips are laid with a 15-cm overlap on the walls and a 20-cm overlap. Cement mortar is used to round the joints to ensure a seamless transition of material. All joints between the strips, joints in the corners, close to the threshold, and around the pipes are soldered with a gas burner if a shower without a tray is utilized.

The edges of all the strips should be firmly pressed against one another when laying self-adhesive rolls, having beforehand lubricated all overlaps with a specific adhesive. The procedure is then repeated with the subsequent layer placed on top of the first.

After each layer is cut, well smeared with mastic or glue, firmly pressed to the base, and soldered, it is examined for overall glue quality and the presence of bubbles. Although each person chooses their own number of layers, it is preferable to have at least two.

A 3-5 cm cement screed is laid to level and protect the multilayer coating; tiles can already be placed on top of this screed.

Advantages of boxes without a tray

Installing a floor-mounted shower lets you save a lot of space and works well in a variety of areas and purposes. One must weigh the benefits and drawbacks of a small cabin before installing one.

Installing a shower box without a tray will free up space because it is smaller than a bathtub.

The primary benefits of the apparatus are:

• Small dimensions. Shower without a tray can be installed in a small-sized bathroom.
• Design advantages. Aesthetic design will allow you to stylishly decorate the interior of the bathroom. Shower box without a tray will harmoniously fit into the interior of a country house or city apartment.
• Easy to use. Ideal for people with disabilities, the elderly and children.
• Easy care. Thanks to the simple device, care and cleaning in the stall will not be difficult, will not take much time.
• Self-installation option. Installation can be carried out by hand, provided that the rules are strictly adhered to.

You can also save money by choosing these hygienic buildings instead of shower cabins with trays, which are far more costly.

A shower cubicle that is both ergonomic and comfortable, devoid of a shower tray, is intended for installation in residential or commercial buildings. The compact design can also be installed in a sports complex or a swimming pool.

Colorful tile shower nook

Cosy low edge

Many design options

Affordable and fashionable showering solution

Design project

If a shower stall with a tray takes up a lot of room, the room will appear larger and more open if you use a trayless design with translucent partitions.

A stall without a tray can look more elegant by using glass or tiles instead of the acrylic or polycarbonate sashes found on cabins with trays.

Wood can be used to arrange the floor inside the cabin, making it more convenient and comfortable to stand on. Polished oak or walnut are the best options, and they should always be varnished against moisture. If the warm floor was not intended, this treatment will lessen sliding on the surface and serve as a layer of thermal insulation for the floor.

An extra recess must be made in order to create a drain, where the drain will be installed. It is best to build an extra threshold that will serve a functional purpose by keeping water from entering the cabin in addition to its decorative one. Such protection won’t be unnecessary in the restroom since it will help to prevent many issues.

If the cabin is placed in the designated area and the remaining space is used for other purposes, the layout of a modern bathroom can be kept simple. Nevertheless, this room’s design has the potential to be far more intriguing, if more partitions or built-in partitions are used. Because the cabin is concealed behind a partition and out of sight, the shower in this variation appears unusual but lovely.

An innovative approach to the cabin’s design could be a ceiling-mounted water sprayer, which would be fixed into the ceiling as opposed to being fixed to the wall. Consequently, it is feasible to preserve water and keep it from leaving the cabin.

Planning a new bathroom’s layout and stall design requires considering every aspect that contributes to a relaxing and enjoyable shower experience.

In order to allow for the fastest and safest possible water escape, the corner where the stall will be situated should have drains. It would be ideal if the room’s doors were sufficiently apart to allow for the visual illusion of a larger, more roomy bathtub.

Vibrantly colored tiles can be used to create a lovely room decoration. Furthermore, it’s important to make sure that the walls, floor, stall, and furniture all have the same color and cohesive stylistic solution.

Main methods of waterproofing a shower room floor

Waterproofing the floor can be done in a number of ways, each of which has its own advantages. However, using the right technology and understanding how to work with the material are essential to getting the desired outcome.

Roll insulation ↑

Roll self-adhesive or self-adhesive insulation materials can be used to waterproof the shower floor in cases without a tray. The substrate’s preparation is crucial in this situation. A cement screed is used to level the surface in the event that there are any irregularities. The material is rolled out after bituminous mastic has been applied to the hardened base.

On the walls, the strips are positioned with a 100 mm overlap and a 150 mm overlap. A construction hair dryer is used to solder all joints if waterproofing is used. The self-adhesive waterproofing is pressed firmly and pre-lubricated with a unique adhesive around its edges.

At least two layers of moisture insulation should be installed for dependable floor protection. The subsequent layer’s strips are positioned perpendicular to those of the preceding layer.

Using roll-foam material, the bathroom floor’s moisture insulation

Bitumen-polymer insulation ↑

The next way to waterproof a shower without a tray is to use "liquid rubber," also known as bitumen-polymer mastic. The primary benefit of this approach is that there is no complicated preparation required and the material is applied easily.

The surface needs to be primed and cleaned before the mastic is applied. Using a brush, "Liquid Rubber" is applied, making sure the layer is between two and four millimeters thick. Particular attention is paid to all joints surrounding pipes and drains, as well as the joint connecting the floor to the wall. Once the mastic has polymerized, a sturdy waterproofing layer is created.

Use of bituminous-polymer mastics for floor treatment

Polymer-cement insulation ↑

Because polymer-cement compositions are highly elastic and have good adhesion, they work well to insulate floors from moisture. These mixtures are made of cement, polymer additives, and quartz (white) sand. Once all of the cracks and depressions are filled, the mixtures crystallize and provide dependable leak protection.

Using a stiff brush or trowel, the pre-prepared mixture is applied to a slightly moistened surface.

Particular focus is given to damp regions. The first layer is moistened and applied after it dries, and the surface is evened out with a spatula.

As a rule, two layers are enough for complete moisture protection of the surface, but if necessary, you can apply a third layer.

For details. Polymer-cement composition waterproofs shower floors without the need for a separate cement screed, in contrast to other methods. The installation of tiles can begin once it has dried.

Surface application of a polymer-cement mixture

Penetrating waterproofing material is made up of quartz sand, special cement, and chemically active ingredients. The active ingredients fill the pores in the concrete structure and penetrate it, reacting with the cement to form a structure of high-density crystals. As a result, the waterproofing layer forms inside the concrete base rather than on the outside.

The surface needs to be well moistened before applying the composition until it is completely saturated with moisture because the penetration reaction can only happen when there is water present. The process of applying polymer cement insulation and bituminous mastic is comparable to that of applying floor waterproofing technology in that both involve brushing the material onto the substrate and thoroughly treating any damp areas.

The waterproof layer in penetrating waterproofing is the concrete itself.

Requirements for work execution

It is imperative that the treated area not be excessively hot or cold. It is generally accepted that the ideal temperature falls between +5 and +40 degrees Celsius. The tube containing sealant is brought to room temperature before work begins. The type of product packaging determines the application method. After pumping or squeezing the tube, the compound for caulking shower enclosure seams emerges.

For a beautiful seam, use a trowel moistened with water, and carefully scrape off excess sealant.

The process can be completed right away because the sealant’s outer film coating dries quickly—between five and thirty minutes after application. The product’s component composition affects how long it takes to dry. The material hardens at a rate of 2-4 mm per day at a temperature of roughly +20 degrees Celsius and up to 50% humidity.

Conclusion

Waterproofing a shower room is necessary, and it’s not hard to do on your own. Just make sure to lay the material carefully and qualitatively, and look for any possible leaks.

Method	Description
1. Tanking system	A waterproofing system applied directly onto the walls and floor of the shower room, creating a barrier against water leakage.
2. Waterproof membranes	Special membranes made of materials like PVC or rubber that are installed on the walls and floor to prevent water from seeping through.

Giving up on the conventional shower tray might be on your mind if you’re thinking about remodeling or redesigning your shower area. Choosing a shower without a tray can give your bathroom more room and a sleek, contemporary appearance. Without a tray, though, how can you make sure your shower room remains waterproof?

A waterproofing membrane installation is one efficient technique. This small piece of material, usually composed of PVC or rubber, serves as a partition between the floor of your shower and the remainder of your bathroom. It is applied straight to the walls and floor, forming an impenetrable barrier that keeps moisture from leaking through.

A vital consideration for waterproofing a shower room without a tray is the floor’s slope. It’s crucial to make sure your shower floor slopes gently in the direction of the drain if there isn’t a tray to collect extra water. The likelihood of leaks and water damage is decreased by this slope, which encourages water to flow towards the drain rather than collecting on the floor.

Another essential step in waterproofing a shower room without a tray is sealing all joints and seams. Water can seep through any cracks or holes in the walls or flooring, which over time can cause structural damage and the growth of mold. To ensure a watertight seal, seal around fixtures, edges, and corners using a premium waterproof sealant.

Last but not least, maintaining a waterproof shower room without a tray requires routine maintenance. Check for wear and damage on the grout, sealant, and waterproofing membrane on a regular basis. By taking quick action, you can stop water leaks and increase the shower room’s lifespan.

In conclusion, using the appropriate methods and supplies, waterproofing a shower room without a tray is completely possible. Installing a waterproofing membrane, making sure the floor slope is correct, caulking joints and seams, and doing routine maintenance on your shower will allow you to have a fashionable and useful shower area without having to worry about leaks or water damage.

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