How to connect sections of bimetallic radiator

The kind of radiators you have can have a big impact on how effectively your home is heated. Due to their reputation for longevity and efficiency, bimetallic radiators are a popular option among homeowners. These radiators are made of two distinct metals that provide strength and heat conduction qualities, usually steel and aluminum. Bimetallic radiators must have their sections connected in order to operate at their best and distribute heat evenly throughout your house.

Sustaining a cozy and energy-efficient living environment requires knowing how to connect bimetallic radiator sections correctly. The procedure is largely the same whether you’re replacing old radiators or installing new ones. You can connect the sections of your bimetallic radiators easily and successfully by following a few easy steps and taking the appropriate safety measures.

It’s important to gather all required tools and materials before beginning the connection process. Radiator valves, thread sealant, a pipe cutter, and a pipe wrench are usually required. Furthermore, make certain that the radiator sections are the right number, clean, and free of damage or debris. Having everything ready in advance will make things go more smoothly and reduce any potential problems.

Make sure the radiator sections are level and firmly in place before starting to assemble them in the desired location. After that, take great care to measure and cut the piping required to join the sections. To ensure a good fit and seal, make clean, accurate cuts with a pipe cutter. To stop leaks, use thread sealant to affix the piping to the radiator sections after it has been cut to size.

  1. Schemes of connection of installed heating batteries
  2. Bottom connection of the heating radiator
  3. Side connection of the heating battery
  4. Diagonal connection of the heating radiator
  5. Determining the number of sections
  6. Cleaning the radiator
  7. Disassembly of cast iron radiators
  8. Cast iron radiators
  9. Schemes and installation options
  10. Painting the radiator and installing taps
  11. Read also:
  12. Calculating the number of radiators
  13. Installation of new radiator sections
  14. Instructions for adding heating radiator sections
  15. Checking the radiators
  16. Connection of sections of aluminum radiators
  17. Materials and tools required for installing the sections
  18. Algorithm of connection of aluminum radiator sections
  19. Preparatory work
  20. The process of building up the assembly, disassembly of radiators of heating batteries
  21. Design features of bimetallic radiators
  22. Which coolant to choose
  23. Is it possible to pour antifreeze into aluminum radiators??
  24. Cast-iron
  25. How to choose a bimetallic radiator
  26. Pay attention
  27. Connection of sections
  28. Technical features of the sectional radiator
  29. Construction
  30. Characteristics and features
  31. Assembly steps
  32. What it is
  33. So how are the sections added
  34. Which is the best heating system?
  35. Bimetallic radiator
  36. Installation of the battery necessary factors
  37. Calculating the number of radiator sections
  38. News
  39. Aluminum battery
  40. The main schemes for connecting radiators to the thermal system
  41. Diagonal
  42. Connection options
  43. Single-pipe connection scheme
  44. Two-pipe connection scheme
  45. How to connect the battery
  46. Preparatory work
  47. Connecting the sections
  48. Fixing the radiator to the wall
  49. Checking works
  50. Question 18 Is it possible to increase bimetallic radiator
  51. Tips
  52. We also advise you to watch:
  53. Video on the topic
  54. How to grow a radiator
  55. How to connect radiator?
  56. What to do if the apartment is cold? Increasing the number of sections, bimetallic radiators!

Schemes of connection of installed heating batteries

After installing a new radiator, it is important to handle the issue of connecting an extra heating battery with competence because the radiator’s connection to the central heating pipes plays a crucial role in determining how much heat output is lost.

Three primary categories of connections exist:

The decision is based on the room layout and the kind of pipeline wiring that is used in the field. Now let’s look at conditional schemes for each of the three connection types. The following designations are recognized on the schemes:

  1. Maevsky tap;
  2. battery;
  3. direction of heat flow (red color – hot water, blue – cooled water);
  4. plug.

Bottom connection of the heating radiator

The heating system’s supply (containing hot water) and return (containing cooled water) pipes are attached to the lower connections on opposing sides of the radiator. In apartment buildings, this type of connection is less efficient than lateral or diagonal connections; however, it excels in certain instances where the heating system is concealed beneath the floor.

Side connection of the heating battery

Pipes are connected through one-side spigots; this type of connection is most frequently found in multi-story buildings that have a typical centralized heating system. incredibly practical for daily use. The radiator heating battery is given a nominal capacity when installed using this method. However, the heat output decreases if there are more than 15 docked sections. It is advised to alter the wiring diagram in this situation.

Diagonal connection of the heating radiator

The radiator’s lower, opposite-side pipe is connected to the pipe that discharges cool water, while the pipe that supplies hot water is mounted to the radiator’s upper pipe. It is advised to use a diagonal pattern for batteries that have additional extension sections. This arrangement ensures that the hot water is dispersed uniformly over the battery’s whole volume. This maximizes the heat transfer’s efficiency.

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Determining the number of sections

The heater could be used as interior décor.

Frequently inquired about are the heating properties of individual convector sections, their calculation methods, and t.д. Although a thorough and precise computation of heat loss will be highly complex, you can use simplified formulas according to the instructions.

Approximately 100 W of heat energy is needed to heat one square meter of space with a ceiling height between 2.4 and 2.8 meters, according to SNiP standards. That is, the required heating power can be obtained by multiplying the area of such a room by 100.

Modern interiors look fantastic with square units.

In addition, we can examine the device’s passport features and select one that meets our needs in terms of quality, design, and parameters. There will be an indication of the sectional capacity.

The number of sections needed for a given room is determined by dividing the previously determined heating power of the space by the sectional power, rounding up the result.

White color and a simple design go well with any style.

Crucial! It should be mentioned that the stated capacity is frequently overestimated because it is assumed that the coolant will always be at 100 ˚C, which is unlikely to occur in actual use. The fact that the actual power is typically between 140 and 160 watts should serve as guidance.

Cleaning the radiator

We have already discussed how to remove the radiator above. All that’s left to do is take it outside into the yard or, if you live in an apartment, into the bathroom. Please be aware that in order to place the radiator on it, you will also need a wooden tray or something comparable. By using this method, the radiator is shielded from dents and scratches.

A cheap heating appliance that looks great and produces a lot of heat.

Remove the radiator cap only in the restroom. If not, you could pour water all over the floor, which smells pretty bad. It only takes a hose to reach the battery and turn on the water under pressure to rinse it. If this method fails to clear the obstruction, you should use a vinegar solution that has been diluted 70% with water. To stop the vinegar solution from leaking through the hole, close the bottom lug. After adding it to the battery, let it sit for a few hours to seep in. Next, remove the liners, empty the debris, and give it a quick water rinse.

Wipe the thread location with a dry cloth before putting the radiator back where it belongs. Following that, paint application to the hemp’s liners is advised. You will need to use film in place of hemp if your radiators are more recent and not cast iron.

As you can see, cleaning and adding more sections to the radiator is a task that can be completed on your own without the need for specialized teams.

It’s crucial to complete the tasks in the correct order and to take extra care, caution, and attention. Please share your experience or ideas on this topic with us and our readers if you have done this kind of work or if you simply want to extend a few sections of the battery in your house!

Disassembly of cast iron radiators

Sometimes dismantling cast iron radiators is an extremely tedious but necessary procedure.

The steps involved in taking apart cast iron radiators are as follows: a) catching section threads with two to three nipples; b) rotating nipples and joining sections; c) joining the third section; d) grouping two radiators; e) one section; f) one nipple; g) one gasket; h) one short radiator wrench; ii) one crowbar; iii) one long radiator wrench.

A flat surface is used to place a radiator, new or old. The standard liners or blind plugs must be removed, at least on one side. Radiators can have left- or right-hand threads on different sections. Plugs typically have left-hand threads, while cast iron fittings typically have right-hand threads. It is preferable to know what kind of thread this is and which way the key should be turned before using force if there is a free section and no disassembly skills. When disassembling cast-iron batteries, the wrench should be turned clockwise if the thread is left-handed.

You must "rip" the liners out of place by giving them a quarter turn on the radiator’s sides, just like you would with any other nuts.е. give each side of the battery a quarter turn. Once the liners are removed, a small space separating the sections is created, about a few millimeters. The entire structure will begin to bend due to applied forces and its own weight if the lugs are further loosen. The thread might be stuck in this instance. The disassembled battery should rest on the helper to avoid this, as his weight will stop the battery from bending.

Old radiators are typically challenging to disassemble because the sections and liners are "sticky." Such a battery will require the use of an autogen or a blowtorch to disassemble. Circular movements of heat are applied to the connection point. The liners are unscrewed after it has warmed up sufficiently. The steps are repeated if the first attempt at unscrewing is unsuccessful.

You should lengthen the wrench if your strength is insufficient to remove the battery. Leverage is provided by an ordinary pipe.

To deflate cast iron radiators, unscrew the recessed nipples in the same manner.

In the event that none of the aforementioned techniques for disassembling the cast-iron battery work, you can still break it with a sledgehammer while lying down or cut it with a bolgar or autogen. One section needs to be carefully broken or sliced. Following this procedure, the sections’ bonds can be loosened, the battery can be disassembled, and the remaining sections can be preserved.

Since the liners in the old cast iron batteries were painted and sealed with linen, the use of "liquid wrench" or WD liquid has no effect because the liquids won’t get on the threads.

Returning to the contents table

A secure and effective setup is essential when connecting sections of a bimetallic radiator for your home heating system. First, assemble the required supplies and equipment, such as pipe sealant and a pipe wrench. To guarantee a tight seal, start by cleaning the radiator sections’ threads and applying sealant. After that, carefully line up the sections and tighten the connections with the pipe wrench. Avoid overtightening as this may cause the radiator to break. After connecting, check for leaks and make any required corrections. In order to effectively distribute heat throughout your house and keep you warm and comfortable throughout the winter, it is important to connect your bimetallic radiator sections correctly.

Cast iron radiators

When the heating season ends, work must be done to expand the radiator’s area if we are discussing expanding cast-iron batteries. The radiator must be completely disassembled in order to add new sections. It will obviously need to be disconnected from the heating system in order to accomplish this. This will require turning off the entire system if you do it in the winter. It is improbable that your neighbors will be pleased to learn that you will be without heat for a few hours. At most, this is it.

Thus, try to wait until the heating season is over, no matter how much you would like to increase the heat output from the radiators. You are free to choose when to replace cast-iron radiators if they are installed in a private residence. Thus, think about increasing the cast-iron battery step-by-step.

These are the tools you’ll need to add more sections:

  • radiator wrench or adjustable wrench;
  • Nipples designed specifically for cast iron radiators (their number depends directly on the number of sections you are installing); (See the following). also: How to shut off the heating radiator)
  • Special gaskets, to install between the sections of the battery;
  • Side plugs with gaskets (gaskets are usually made of such material as paronite).

The battery needs to be taken out and the device needs to be disassembled. Remember to turn off the water. The cast iron radiator can be easily extended; the most crucial step is to make sure that everything is completely clean to prevent future leaks at the joints connecting the various sections.

Rust and dirt may accumulate between the sections of the battery if it is not brand-new and has been in use for a long enough period of time. This overgrowth needs to be removed in order to attach the gasket and join the sections. Use a metal bristle brush or coarse sandpaper to clean the spaces between the sections.

Place the battery and any other sections on the ground. Be very mindful of the thread position when attaching the nipple. Since the element will be screwed into two sections with different threads, it is best to double check your placement. (Refer to: How to remove the radiator’s air).

It is preferable to first press the nipple somewhere on one turn of thread on the left side of the battery in order to begin screwing it in from the left side. On the right side, carry out the same movements.

Verify that the gasket for the intersection is precisely in the center of the nipple. The pieces on the nipple should fit snugly. The radiator wrench must then be inserted into the radiator. Nipple should be screwed into the battery sections using an adjustable wrench.

Go to the other side of the sections that need to be screwed in after giving the nipple three or four turns of tightening. One by one, tighten the sections until they fit together firmly. (See also: How to correctly use your hands to install the heating battery)

Install the castiron radiator side plugs now. Don’t overlook the paronite gaskets. Additionally, use sandpaper to clean any rust buildup from the surface where the gasket will be attached. Install the gasket and plug only after that. With a pipe wrench, tighten the plugs all the way.

These are the actual stages of the installation of the additional cast iron battery sections. You can also install taps on radiators if you so choose.

By the way, a room’s insufficient number of sections is not the only reason why cast iron radiators don’t provide enough heat. It occasionally occurs, and for many years, cast iron batteries were painted on a regular basis, applying a fresh coat of paint over the previous one. (See. additionally: )

The result of such a "coat" is that the radiators’ thermal efficiency is practically eliminated. Therefore, make sure to remove the previous coat of paint before repainting or decorating your battery in a unique way.

When painting the battery, use a paint that can react to high temperatures without losing its properties, rather than just any old enamel. Regular enamels frequently turn yellow when heated, so be sure to consider these characteristics when making your choice.

Schemes and installation options

There is no difference between bimetallic radiators and other radiators. The most widely used connection configurations:

  • Side connection is chosen for the riser heating system used in multi-storey houses. Usually the outlet from the supply riser is connected to the top of the radiator, and the return takes the coolant from below;
  • In private, one- and two-storey houses, a horizontal system of heating pipes distribution, called "Leningradskaya", is widespread. According to it, you can enter the supply into the upper radiator plug, and output from the lower, diametrically opposite one. This method of installation is the most optimal in terms of circulation of the coolant through the registers;
  • As a variant of the Leningradskaya system, it is allowed to make the supply and output of the coolant in the lower plugs of radiators.

Painting the radiator and installing taps

You now understand how to add sections of a cast-iron heating radiator on your own. You can also add taps to the radiators if you’d like. However, the room’s coldness has other reasons. Not every cause is a high load that radiators are unable to handle. The mistake of painting the radiators incorrectly is one that many people commit. Every year when we paint radiators, we forget that we need to first remove the previous coat of paint before applying the new one. Multiple coats of paint negatively impact the room’s temperature. Radiators become much less efficient in terms of coefficient of efficiency.

It is necessary to remove the old paint layer in order to prevent the device’s characteristics from deteriorating and to ensure that the efficiency of heating radiators remains intact.

It is essential to use specialized paint that can withstand the effects of high temperatures when painting the radiators. Painting batteries is not a good use for regular enamel. It will heat up at high temperatures and eventually turn yellow.

We have already thought of ways to make heating radiators more efficient if the issue of poor quality heating persists. However, it is preferable to accurately calculate the necessary number of radiator heating sections in advance when replacing the old heating system with a new one in order to avoid having to perform such intricate work.

It is preferable to use high-quality materials when selecting heating radiators to increase their heat output. After all, the properties of the material determine a significant portion of heat transfer. Therefore, using high-quality materials will result in a significant increase in heating efficiency.

You will be able to simply expand the heating radiator’s sections after reading our article. The most important thing is to do the work carefully and with high-quality materials. You can modify your home’s heating system and create a cozy environment by adhering to a few easy rules.

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Calculating the number of radiators

To what extent will you need to add? Here, you’ll need to use a little bit of your imagination to figure out how many sections are needed based on the kind of radiators, the heated room’s volume, the number and condition of windows, the wall’s material, the room’s location, and other elements. Think about the option that uses cast-iron batteries, each of which has an average power of 100–150 watts per section.

Other types of radiators typically have their power listed in the product’s technical passport.

The computation is conducted for an 18 square meter one-room apartment with a standard ceiling height of 2.5 meters. Windows: corner apartment with double-glazed plastic windows; the apartment is situated in a region with an average temperature in our nation. The apartment’s radiators are connected by an overhead connector.

100 x 18(area) = 1800 W.

The correction factor for the ceiling height in our case is 0, 8, t. к. 3 meters is taken as a basis. 1800 x 0,8= 1440 W. Taking into account the corner location of the apartment, the correction factor will be equal to 1.8. The received power 1440 multiplied by 1.8 and get the power =2592 Kv. This value should again be multiplied by the coefficient for the presence of windows. In our case there are 2 windows and K =1,8. 2592 х1.8, we get the next value of power equal to 4565 Kv. Plastic double-glazed windows give K =0,8 final power is 4565×0,8 =3732 Kv. Now you can determine how many cast-iron sections to keep the apartment warm. 3732: 150=24,8 т. е. 25 sections.

This calculation is highly approximative, of course. The number of sections may differ based on a number of factors, including the temperature of the heat carrier that supplies the centralized heating network, the material and degree of insulation of the doors, ceiling, and walls, the location of the windows, the existence of shields on the radiators, curtains, and other fixtures, and more. However, in the event that your apartment has fewer sections, you should still add them.

Installation of new radiator sections

It should be made clear right away that sections of the exact same kind and brand that are currently in your apartment must be added. If not, the mismatch in the height, material of manufacture, and cross-sectional dimensions of the inlet and outlet holes may cause the entire idea to fail.

As soon as the lug is unscrewed, turn off the water and empty the water that spills out. Next, inter-section gaskets composed of rubber, paronite, or special gel are positioned on top of connecting elements (nipples) that are applied to the joint in the form of nuts.

Both sides of the nipple are threaded, but the threads on each side point in different directions. When adding new sections, the right side of the nipple is inserted from the left. Thus, the left side of the nipple should be inserted into the radiator’s hole, and the gaskets should be applied—that is, very gently and carefully.

Instructions for adding heating radiator sections

House and apartment owners frequently deal with a very serious issue: even with a regular supply of coolant at the proper temperature, the house feels cold, and staying there can be uncomfortable. You will need to extend the heating radiator in order to fix this issue. What makes this type of work what it is? The main goal of this process is to add sections to the radiator, which will enable the home to be comfortably heated.

In the event that heating a large room is required, sections are added to the radiator.

To start, you’ll need to find a radiator wrench. You absolutely need one; if you can’t find one, you’ll either need to buy a new one at the store or borrow one from a friend or neighbor. Thus, you should remove the radiator and cut off its connections to the heating system with the aid of this key. After that, take it to the bathtub and fill it with water.

The addition of sections will not be feasible without a unique key.

A common complaint from apartment residents is that the air temperature is not comfortable enough in their homes. This is typically caused by a simple blockage in the radiator, which prevents the radiator from operating "at full force." However, if water that has been directed into the radiator flows through its channels clear and unobstructed, appearing clean, the issue is not with the heating device becoming clogged. If you approach this task responsibly, the only help that can be provided in this case is the addition of sections. In general, there is nothing complicated or difficult to do.

Checking the radiators

You should first open the radiator taps and let some water out to ensure that your radiators are clean and air-free. The water jet’s distinctive sporadic flow will allow you to determine whether or not there is air in the system at the same time. Following that, you can begin radiator flushing.

However, you must first turn off the water supply to your apartment’s heating system. Having the taps installed to separate each radiator from the mains is a good idea. If not, you’ll need to get in touch with the service company to hire a plumber.

Assume for the moment that you are capable of disconnecting your radiators on your own. It is now necessary to examine them to see if they contain any dirt. They must be cleaned in order to accomplish this, and it is preferable to do so in a bathtub. See what water emerges from the second hole after you aim the tap’s water jet into it. Flushing must be done until the water runs clear.

Even if it was originally undisturbed, the issue of how to make the radiator sections larger will remain to be resolved.

Connection of sections of aluminum radiators

This equipment’s design allows sections of aluminum radiators to be connected, which sets it apart from panel batteries in a useful way. If a segment leaks, it can be replaced as well as additional segments added. Purchasing just the battery will save a significant amount of money. The connecting procedure itself is easy to understand and can be completed by a layperson.

Materials and tools required for installing the sections

Mounting kits, which are sold in every profile store, include everything required for section extensions.

  • Radiator wrench is a typical tool used for installation of all radiators.
  • Radiator nipples – short spigots with two-sided right and left-hand threads.
  • Gaskets – vapor or silicone. It is not recommended to replace special gaskets with improvised windings or self-made gaskets. Such substitutions may lead to depressurization of the equipment.

Algorithm of connection of aluminum radiator sections

Connecting the sections face-to-face on a level, level surface (the floor) is more convenient.

  • The connecting end openings are free of plugs.
  • A gasket is placed on the thread-free part of the nipple.
  • The nipple is carefully screwed into the aluminum collector for several turns.
  • The holes of the section to be connected are precisely aligned with the nipple by means of light pressure.
  • The wrench is used to tighten the nipple, which, thanks to the multidirectional thread, will tighten both parts of the radiator. When the limit of the connection is reached, the gasket will reliably seal the joint.
  • The upper and lower nipples should be screwed alternately, with the same number of turns to avoid misalignment.

You can use a hose to fill the system with water to test the battery’s tightness before installing it. All adjustments are done correctly if, after a while, there is no longer any moisture in the joints at the points of connection.

Preparatory work

Prior to extending the radiator, the required instruments must be bought in addition to the necessary computations.

This is particularly crucial if you plan to complete the work alone. For high-quality work, you’ll require:

  • pipe wrench
  • radiator wrench;
  • special nipples (should be included with the battery section);
  • plugs with left and right threads;
  • gaskets to be installed between the sections;
  • emery cloth;
  • gaskets made of paronite.

The preparatory work can start as soon as the tools are available.

  • First of all, the radiator to which the section will be connected is removed. To do this, the coolant supply to the system is closed, and the battery is disconnected from the pipe.
  • The removed radiator should be thoroughly washed from dust and checked for contamination inside. Although stainless steel does not suffer from the acidity of water, the core is not "immune" from the deposition of debris and scale on its walls. They should be removed by washing the radiator with a special agent.
  • Check connection points for integrity and quality of threads. It happens that at the joints form growths, so it is necessary to treat each hole with threads with sandpaper.

It is still worthwhile to go over the threads with an emery cloth even if no growths are discovered. By doing this, impurities that can hinder the gasket from producing a high-quality seal will be eliminated.

  • After the old battery has been cleaned, it should be placed on a previously prepared flat surface. This is important, as it is necessary to connect bimetallic radiators with each other without distortions, even the most insignificant ones. Little noticeable at first, they can lead to a serious accident later on.

Building up new sections can only begin after the preparatory work is completed.

The process of building up the assembly, disassembly of radiators of heating batteries

Once more in chronological order. Now let’s take a closer look at the nipple that joins the two sections. We assure you that the two threads—left and right—that are visible on it are distinct.

Additionally, protrusions inside the nipple allow torque to be transferred to it via the key. Let’s talk straight now about the assembly procedure. Place our sections on a level surface while they are still separated. When the radiator is suspended, of course, the sections can be twisted on the wall, but it is a lot more involved process.

Bend the nipple and screw it into the section with 1-2 turns.

Install gaskets that seal the screwed-in nipples. A thin coating of sealant can be applied to them and smeared.

We now affix the portion that will be connected to the nipples…

Put the key into the battery cavity up to the length of the nipples that we installed. You can attempt this by trying on the wrench before we put it into the battery.

One by one, begin screwing in the nipples. Turns one or two on top and bottom. For this procedure, having two wrenches is preferable, especially if there are a lot of sections. It will take a lot of work to move the key back and forth. Tighten the nipples to force the gasket between the sections as they come together. We pull with our hands at first, then with the assistance of a screwdriver.

That’s all; the radiator sections have been enlarged and put together in between. The method for assembling aluminum radiators is the same. If the radiators were taken out of the wall, they can now be installed. The radiators are taken apart in the opposite manner.

Design features of bimetallic radiators

These exquisite heating appliances became widely used concurrently with the idea of Euro repair. Combining the benefits of steel and cast iron, they have a significant margin of safety, can withstand pressures of up to 40 atm, and produce heat output that is far higher than that of steel and cast iron radiators.

Steel makes up the internal circulation lines, while powder-coated aluminum makes up the ribbed jacket that distributes heat throughout the space. As a result, they are lovely, strong, and simple to install.

Sectional units, which feature nipple connections between sections and can be customized to suit your needs in terms of number of sections, are especially popular.

Which coolant to choose

Ordinary water is most frequently used in heating systems, but it causes metal components to corrode and clog passageways with scale and sludge.

The water in the system needs to be drained if the system needs to be shut down for the winter. This material expands in volume as it moves from the liquid to the solid state, causing the primary components of the heating system to fail.

Thus, when planning a heating system, consider the coolant type as well as radiator capacity. The coolant type should be chemically neutral and have a low freezing point. Is it feasible to fill aluminum radiators with antifreeze?

Is it possible to pour antifreeze into aluminum radiators??

Antifreezes are liquids with relatively low freezing points. These coolants get this quality from unique additives that also act as corrosive activity, scale, and deposit inhibitors in the liquid.

Aluminum devices have three main drawbacks that are typical of them:

Special compositions are needed for aluminum radiators in order to increase their service life.

Preference for antifreeze is possible, but there are a few drawbacks:

  • The specific heat capacity is 115% lower than that of ordinary water;
  • It has a property to strongly increase in volume under the influence of high temperatures;
  • It is highly viscous and a pump will be required for normal circulation;
  • The flowability of antifreeze exceeds this indicator of ordinary water by 50%, welds and other connecting elements must be sealed.
  • Some antifreezes are only suitable for heating systems due to their toxicity. Their use for the hot water supply system is excluded.


Let’s examine the resources and components required to add the two sections:

  • Gas and radiator wrenches;
  • Nipples – 2 pcs.;
  • Inter-section gaskets – 2 pcs.;
  • Side plugs (2 pcs. with left and 2 pcs. with the right thread);
  • Gaskets (vaporite) to the plugs;
  • Additional compartments.

Fundamental guidelines for adding sections

  1. If the battery has been in use, there may be growths on it, and to remove them use a metal brush, knife, or fine sandpaper;
  2. Lay the sections opposite each other on a flat surface, remembering that one side has left-hand threads and the other right-hand threads;
  3. Take the gasket and the nipple, find its correct position (when it is freely screwed into both threads: right and left). Then with one coil fasten it to the left side of the radiator;
  4. On the other side do the same;
  5. All sections are pressed against each other, with the gasket in the middle of the nipple;
  6. The distance to the nipple is measured with a radiator wrench;
  7. It is inserted into the battery at the measured distance and the radiator is turned with a pipe wrench, and the nipple is screwed in 2 or 3 turns;
  8. Move the radiator wrench to the other side and do the same job until all the added sections are tightened;
  9. Use a knife to clean the sole under the paronite gasket, and if the plug is used, it is also cleaned;
  10. Using a pipe wrench, screw the plugs into the heating radiator and tighten the gaskets;
  11. The radiator is assembled and, if necessary, taps are mounted to it.

How to choose a bimetallic radiator

Because they are composed of both steel and aluminum, bimetallic radiators get their name (the prefix "bi" means "two"). Steel prevents the internal coating from being destroyed by corrosion, while aluminum maintains heat.

Pay attention

Priority one when purchasing bimetallic radiators should be given to the manufacturer’s company. Global and Sira are currently the most well-known.

  • Global radiators have a special connection of sections, which protects radiators from leaking. In addition, the radiators of this company have several types of design.
  • Sira offers radiators with high heat output and unusual rounded design. Due to the special connection of sections, the radiator can be expanded or reduced without much difficulty.

The whole house’s heating system’s service life should be considered when selecting a provider. If the system is older than 40 years, it is best to use radiators made by Sira; if it is younger than 30 to 40 years, Global Radiators is the best option.

Connection of sections

The radiator needs to be positioned on a level surface with its exterior facing you in order for all the components to be connected correctly. The following is the order of events:

  • Plugs are unscrewed from the end connection compartments.
  • A gasket should be put on the part of the nipple that has no threads.
  • Insert the nipple into the manifold of the aluminum radiator and lightly turn it a few times.
  • Connect the section prepared for connection to the other side of the nipple.
  • Take a wrench and tighten the nipple leisurely. Due to the fact that it has opposite threads at the different ends, its sides will be screwed in at the same time.
  • Push the screwing to the limit until it hits the gasket.

To ensure that neither side is out of alignment, the upper and lower collector’s nipples should be screwed in the same number of times. Count the number of turns made in order to accomplish this.

It is important to make sure the extension is airtight before attaching the larger radiator to the heating pipe. To check for leaks, fill the radiator with water that has been tinted, then leave it for a few hours.

You can move on to the final phase of the project once the construction has been hung on the wall.

Technical features of the sectional radiator


The image shows a different area.

The design of sectional radiators is essentially the same. Two horizontal manifolds are connected by vertical ducts to form this system. The exterior of vertical tubes is covered in plate fins that create convection current channels and expand the area of thermal interaction.

The separation between the plates is selected to produce turbulent, as opposed to laminar, convection flows. As a result, there is a greater air-hull surface interaction.

The appliance’s heat transfer area is expanded by the plates.

The structure is divided into identical components. A vertical channel and two collector elements—one at the top and the other at the bottom—are features of one such section. The collector element and the vertical duct form a T-shaped connection, and the two open holes on the collector element are designed to connect to other collector holes that are similar.

A special nipple with a sealant is used to connect the parts.

The hole used to connect the supply, return, or air valve is sealed with a plug if the part is installed from the edge.

The image illustrates how to take out a portion of an aluminum radiator.

Think about how a battery with this kind of design would function:

  • Parts are assembled into a complete battery, to one of the holes connect the coolant supply pipe, to another – the pipe of exhaust fluid, to the third – the Maevsky valve to drain excess air, the fourth hole is closed with a plug;
  • The coolant enters the collector and gradually fills the entire device. Aluminum has a high thermal conductivity, about four times higher than steel. Therefore, the casing begins to warm up quickly;
  • The heated surface of the convector begins to radiate heat energy. The share of heat radiation in the infrared range accounts for about 50 – 60% of the total heat output of the device;
  • The air in contact with the surface of the casing starts to heat up due to direct heat transfer. Under the action of gravity heated masses begin to move up through the channels formed by the ribs of the convector, and new portions of cold air are drawn into the battery from below;
  • The device starts to work as a gravity pump. The air flows passing through the channels have a vortex character, which increases the heat output of the plates due to mixing.

The heat that is radiated depends on the width of the aluminum radiator section.

Crucial! The primary benefit of the sectional design is that you can adjust the device’s size and power with your hands. Features and attributes

Characteristics and features

The center-to-center distance determines the size of the aluminum radiator section.

Any heater’s primary technical feature is its heat output. This represents the heat that the apparatus releases into the atmosphere in a given amount of time. expressed in watts or kcal/hour.

Many factors influence power, but the following are the primary ones that are taken into account:

  • device surface area;
  • coolant temperature;
  • channel capacity (how many liters are in one section of an aluminum radiator);
  • heat head;
  • material thermal conductivity;
  • casing design;
  • method of connection of supply and return.

Aluminum radiators have a nipple screwed into the hole before sections are added.

Given that there is no set maximum for the number of sections in the aluminum radiator and that various devices have varying sizes, it is more practical to think about the specifications of a single part and then add the values of all the parts to get the battery’s characteristics.

Ten sections of aluminum radiators with ten times the nameplate capacity each.

Let’s take a closer look at the technical aspects:

Technical characteristics Parameter values
Height (center distance) 250, 300, 350, 400, 450, 500 mm. The most common sizes are 350 – 500 mm. Vertical models can reach 1 – 2 meters in height
Depth For standard models 80 – 140 mm
Width For most products 80 mm
Capacity 0.25 – 0.5 liters
Wall thickness 2 – 3 mm
Heat dissipation area 0.4 – 0.6 м²
Power 80 – 220 W, more often 140 – 160 W
Maximum temperature of the coolant 130 ˚С
Working pressure 6 – 24 atm.

The product’s power and manufacturer determine its price.

Crucial! Models with a working pressure of at least 16 atm and a maximum (pressure test) pressure of at least 45 atm should be chosen for connection to the heat carrier fluid supply.

Assembly steps

A bimetallic battery can be installed and connected in four easy steps:

  • Start with the assembly of the battery. Nipples with gaskets are slightly pressed into the threads of the axial openings of one block section and another section or a block of several sections is attached to them. The nipple has a different thread on each side. Therefore, when we start to twist it with a nipple wrench, it tightly pulls the sections together and the gasket seals the joint;
  • We then carry out an enlarged assembly of fittings. In the passage nuts, two left and two right, pack a plug, Maevsky faucet, and threads of Americanoks. Sealing of the plug and the Maevsky valve is ensured by rubber sealing rings. The American is packed on plumbing tape moistened with olive oil or sealant;
  • Installation of through nuts equipped with O-rings is easy. It should be remembered that the Maevsky valve is designed to drain air and is necessarily located at the top. Location of other fittings depends on the connection scheme;
  • In order to fit the battery to the existing outlets, at least one bracket must be marked with the battery in the working position. The rest are marked with a ruler and a level, transferring the dimensions from the radiator to the wall. Brackets must be threaded and doweled. Then it will be possible to adjust the distance of the radiator from the wall. This is done by turning the bracket clockwise or counterclockwise.

What it is

What is the bimetallic radiator, then? Any heater’s primary feature is its heat output, or the quantity of heat it can move from the coolant to the surrounding air.

There are two factors that determine heat transfer:

  1. The surface temperature of the radiator;
  2. Its area.

There are two methods to enhance the surface area of heat exchange:

  1. By increasing the internal volume of the section. There are a number of limiting factors here – the weight of the section (and therefore the load on the fixings) and the dimensions of the radiator;
  2. Due to the formation of a well-developed fin.

However: the main condition for high heat transfer of a device with a large fin area is high thermal conductivity of the metal from which it is made.
Otherwise, the cold ribs simply will not remove heat from the internal channels of the sections.

Cast iron, aluminum, and steel are three relatively cheap metals that have long been used extensively in the mass manufacture of heating devices. Compared to the first two metals, aluminum has a thermal conductivity four times higher:

Metal Thermal conductivity, W*m/K
Steel 47
Cast iron 50
Aluminum 200

The decision seems to be clear-cut: aluminum’s high thermal conductivity makes it possible to design a small, light device that has the fastest heat transfer rate. This is indeed the case, but here’s the catch: the metal’s low mechanical strength prevents it from being used in central heating kennels.

Aluminum’s strength is not enough in some situations.

The likelihood of a water hammer is the cause. The inertia of nearly incompressible water will produce a shock wave if a gate or valve is suddenly closed; the strength of aluminum batteries is limited to 16 kgf/cm.The pressure at the front of the shock wave will reach 20–25 kgf/cm.

What then is a bimetallic radiator, which possesses the strength of a steel pipe and the heat output of an aluminum radiator? All that’s left is a corrosion-resistant steel core, over which casting is used to form the aluminum fins. The weaknesses of each metal can be eliminated by combining two different metals, which results in a design perfect for central heating systems.

Aluminum fins provide high heat transfer, while a steel core offers strength.

So how are the sections added

Once you’ve established through experience that a clogged radiator isn’t the source of the house’s low temperature, you should locate a heating equipment store close to your house (to avoid having to travel far and waste time). You must purchase the cast iron, aluminum, or bimetallic sections that come with your radiator.

It is not advisable to select the incorrect sections as this will prevent you from adding them and will result in a waste of money, so proceed with caution. For every kind of heating radiator, the section expansion process follows the same set of steps.

A connecting nut, or nipple, is required to join the sections.

Continue straight ahead and add more sections. To begin with, take a radiator wrench and unscrew the lug from the side where you intend to add one or more elements. A nipple, or connecting nut, is applied to the sectional connection area after the lug has been unscrewed. It is imperative to consider the following significant aspect: Because the threads at the various ends of the nipple differ, you must follow these guidelines when installing new sections to ensure proper installation:

  • The right side of the nipple should be directed in the direction where the connection to the new element will be made;
  • Respectively left – towards the already present sections of the heating radiator.

To stop the radiator from leaking any more, you should install the nipple inter-section gaskets (which come in rubber, paranite, or gel forms).

In addition, they ought to be installed with extreme caution. Doing so will ensure that the gasket is positioned as evenly as possible and free of undesired distortions. After that, you must tighten the thread.

This action also needs to be performed carefully, slowly, and without abrupt movements. Rushing is not an option if you want to improve the heating radiator’s quality.

An inter-section gasket is required to stop leaks.

Damage to the metal threading is highly undesirable as it may lead to even seemingly insignificant issues that require additional time and money to resolve.

Reinstall the larger radiator on the bracket and replace the connection to the central heating pipe. To accomplish this, prepare yourself by gathering a wrench with the proper diameter and wax, which you’ll need to wrap around the pipe thread while tightening the radiator.

Radiator heating can be added in sections without much difficulty; ten years of experience working in a team of heating installers is not necessary. However, in the absence of a serious approach, basic tools and the elimination of this process occupying his personal time are insufficient. To address the issue of the room’s inadequate heating, you can, nevertheless, choose the second option, which is to hire the business offering these services. Their staff will take care of everything on their own, swiftly and effectively.

Which is the best heating system?

Let’s now discuss selecting a heating system. Heating systems come in two varieties: those that circulate water naturally and those that don’t.

Natural circulation makes it easy for the coolant to flow between radiators. This system makes controlling the temperature very simple and energy-free. However, the system will simply stop working if the pipe slope is not calculated correctly, so it is imperative that this be done. It will be necessary to buy a boiler in order to install this system.

A unique pump will be needed for forced circulation in order to keep the pipes’ working pressure constant. A system like that requires electricity. Currently, though, forced circulation systems are more common among homeowners.

A valid question to consider when selecting a heating system is: what is the best way to choose heating pipes? To begin with, you must determine which factor—cost, service life, or ease of installation—will be most important to you when purchasing a radiator. More specific information is available at.

Bimetallic radiator

This radiator is expandable because it is made of premium aluminum coated low carbon steel, connected by nipples, and has a sectional design. Additionally, special ring gaskets ensure the construction’s tightness.

  1. Using a radiator wrench, unscrew the lug on the side from which you plan to add sections. A nipple is applied at the connection point;
  2. The right side of the connection nut should be directed in the direction where the connections to the new section are going to be made, and the left side should be directed towards the already mounted sections;
  3. To prevent the radiator from leaking, helium, rubber or vaporite inter-section gaskets are put on the nipple and the thread is tightened;
  4. Do not damage the metal threads, as there may be problems such as leaks in the places of connection of the pipeline with the radiator, which will take not only time but also finances to fix. Therefore, all work should be carried out carefully and carefully, and most importantly, not in a hurry;
  5. The expanded radiator is hung on brackets and connected to the central heating pipes. To do this, use a wrench and beads, it is wrapped around the pipe thread during the connection of the heating radiator.

Installation of the battery necessary factors

When connecting heating radiators in a home or apartment, certain guidelines are typically followed. You can find the radiators anywhere in the space. Depending on what the owners want. However, picking a spot where heat losses occur will be more appropriate in order to lessen their severity and create a more comfortable environment.

The heat loss through the window panes is the most obvious. Furthermore, the newest double-glazed windows will always lose more heat than the walls, regardless of the technologies employed to create them. As a result, radiators in apartment buildings are found in the spaces beneath the windows, where they serve to restrict the flow of cold air.

Typically, when installing a radiator, keep the following guidelines in mind:

  • the distance from the window sill to the top of the radiator should be at least 5-10 cm;
  • to the wall – 2-5 cm;
  • to the floor – 8-12 cm.

Calculating the number of radiator sections

It is vital to determine the radiator’s length or the necessary number of sections before properly connecting the apartment’s heating radiators. This may determine whether the space will remain comfortable and warm even on extremely chilly days. These computations can be performed in a number of ways using intricate formulas and coefficients.

Simpler computations can be performed by a non-specialist who is the apartment’s owner or occupant. All that’s required is knowledge of your room’s specifications and the chosen batteries’ capacity. Well, one square meter can be heated with 100 W of radiator power. Multiply the area of the floor by 100. You receive the battery’s total power value. Divide the value that results from multiplying one section by the documentation’s specified power of one. determining the ideal section count.

For the proper connection of the heating radiator, there is an older, more straightforward rule. The battery section can heat a space that is 2 m² and has a ceiling height of no more than 2, 7 m. Rounding to the larger side, the number of sections is computed. Large rooms with high ceilings found in private houses and corner apartments are not appropriate for this design. There, each calculation is done separately.


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Aluminum battery

Correct computation of all calculations and the required number of nodes must be done prior to the installation of heating devices, as this will determine the room’s temperature during the heating season. It will be necessary to build up heating batteries if this work is not completed correctly, so become familiar with the following instructions:

  • Make calculations based on the following data: at a ceiling height of 260 cm to heat 1 m2 you need 2 sections.
  • Before assembly, make sure that all components and parts are correctly selected. To increase the compartments, disconnect the supply pipes and unscrew the plugs either from the top or from the bottom;
  • Align the additional section with the heating radiator, install a ring gasket, which is made of rubber (heat-resistant) and, using a special wrench, screw the nipple into the aluminum manifold. The depth of the grip is 4 turns of thread;
  • After making sure that the structure is solid, start joining the next section;
  • At the end of assembly, put the plugs in place and make connections, but with the offset of the supply pipe.

It’s crucial! Experts recommend installing radiators with a section reserve because it’s simpler to add than to remove them. Additionally, keep in mind that not all aluminum radiator types have extra compartments.

Among these models are extruded models, which are molded structures made in a single piece through pressing; as a result, they cannot be assembled. It is required to buy and install an additional battery if this kind of radiator is installed and the room is not adequately heated.

The main schemes for connecting radiators to the thermal system

Sometimes non-specialists wonder why the radiator is connected to the pipes in a different way and how to correctly connect the battery. The main idea is that various connection options function differently, resulting in variations in the heater’s heat output percentage, coolant flow direction, and intensity.

There are various ways to connect batteries in two-pipe and one-pipe systems, including bottom, diagonal, and lateral connections.

The most typical method of communication. It is made up of the supply pipe, which is the pipe carrying the hot coolant, approaching the upper pipe, and the return pipe, which connects to the lower pipe and allows the hot water to exit slightly cooled. There is a restriction on this connection; the radiator’s section count cannot exceed 15.


Long radiators are connected to the heating system using this technique. The supply pipe approaches the upper pipe on one side, and the return pipe is situated on the lower pipe on the opposite side, indicating the arrangement of the heating medium connections. On the heating device, there is a chance for hot water to be distributed more evenly.

This type of connection is common in homes where the heating system’s pipes are concealed beneath the flooring. It can be installed in two-pipe systems as well as one-pipe systems for low-rise private buildings that require heating. This connection method isn’t the most effective one. Adding a circulating pump to the system is often necessary.

Radiators can be connected in different ways. Take a one-way bottom one, for instance, where the supply and return are adjacent to each other. In a scheme like this, the pipes are essentially invisible, but a lot of sections in the batteries are needed for adequate heating.

Connection options

The amount of heat that the device releases depends on the kind of heating system and how the radiator is connected to it. Think about the different kinds of systems and how you can connect heating devices to them.

Single-pipe connection scheme

Single-pipe heating systems are the most common in multi-story buildings. Compared to two-pipe systems, they are less expensive to install. Sequential connections between radiators allow the coolant to flow in a single direction, from the first device’s output to the second’s input, etc.

The final radiator in the network is connected to either the heating boiler’s input or, in the case of multi-story buildings, the riser.

These connection methods’ drawbacks are as follows:

  • Lack of ability to adjust the performance of devices. If the regulator will be installed on one of the devices in the network, it will regulate the thermal performance of the entire network.
  • High heat losses of the working substance.
  • Different value of the amount of heat given off by each radiator in the network. The cooled coolant enters the last device of the chain.

Two-pipe connection scheme

The supply and return coolant pipelines are the two pipelines found in two-pipe heating systems. Two pipes are simultaneously connected to each radiator. Another name for this type of connection scheme is parallel. The coolant entering each device is at the same temperature.

Heat output from radiators can be adjusted individually without impacting the entire system. Although the final system is more balanced, installing it calls for more pipes, which raises the system’s cost.

How to connect the battery

It will not be feasible to appropriately expand the radiator if one does not know the basics of heating system operation and how to connect heating batteries.

Preparatory work

Making preparations is the first thing to do. This involves taking the radiator apart. The sections that need to be extended must be removed.

It is necessary to clean the radiator and get rid of any dirt, dust, and rust.

The threaded hole that joined the structure to the pipe needs to be inspected. Growths may occur in this area. Sandpaper must be used to remove them. If not, there will be a loose installation of the inter-section gasket. The heating system might leak as a result of this.

Connecting the sections

The sections are then linked. Tightly positioned against the radiator are the sections that need to be connected. Create a gasket. The distance to the nipple can be measured with a radiator wrench. Place the nipple into the radiator at the designated length. A pipe wrench is used to turn the radiator wrench. Next, two opposite sections are screwed onto the nipple. Turn the radiator wrench three times. The lower portion of the battery is treated in a similar manner.

Subsequently, side plugs and vapor gaskets are removed and put inside the battery. You use a pipe wrench. To create an airtight and dependable construction, it is important to tighten it very tightly. The radiator is connected to the section. The remaining sections are connected in the same manner.

Fixing the radiator to the wall

The radiator is fixed to the wall once all other sections are connected. Hooks are positioned at the level of the battery location in order to accomplish this. The building is hung up. Fittings are used to secure every joint. Utilizing a wrench, tighten it. A sealant is applied to every joint. Specialized adhesive tapes for pipes have just gone on sale.

Checking works

The finished construction is placed one end into the pipe and the other end into the radiator. Using a wrench, the connection points are tightened. Waterproofing is done after the fitting installation is finished.

The system is examined for flaws following the completion of the radiator assembly. A coolant test is performed to make sure everything is in working order. the first time low pressure is used to start the water. This enables you to identify low-quality and leaky connections. When leaks are found, the water is shut off and the problem-solving process is initiated. The coolant is started under standard pressure for the second time.

Once the heating battery has been connected, you must let the radiator run for a few hours. After that, examine the state of the batteries, fittings, and pipes.

Question 18 Is it possible to increase bimetallic radiator

By doing this, the connection will be made more securely and future leaks will be avoided.

Subsequently, the nipple thread is gradually and very carefully tightened. The most important thing is to avoid tearing the threads and overtightening.

The heating system is linked to the finished radiator. For improved waterproofing, kabolku or contemporary materials should be used in place of it at the connection point.


  • If you decide to add a significant number of sections, you should also take care to add brackets, so that the increased weight of the radiator does not break the existing ones and cause an accident.
  • Be aware that aluminum radiators of not all brands can be connected to existing ones. Those that are made by extruded method, are not suitable for the extension of batteries, because all parts in such radiators are not disassembled. In the best case it is possible to mount a separate aluminum radiator as an independent heating device.
  • Bimetallic radiators can be safely extended, as they are made in sections.
  • When connecting the newly assembled battery to the main line, the length of the lay will need to be reduced by cutting off with a bolgar for the required amount, as a result of which the thread at the end of the pipeline will not remain. Therefore, you should stock up on the necessary connection elements, or cut the thread by yourself.

As you can see, adding sections to the radiator is not difficult, and any man who has even the slightest aptitude with a locksmith’s tools can easily increase the battery’s capacity to keep his family warm throughout the winter. If this option isn’t suitable for you, you can always consult experts; however, there will be a financial cost involved.

We also advise you to watch:

Step Description
1 Ensure both sections of the bimetallic radiator are clean and free from debris.
2 Apply thread sealant to the threads of the connecting nipple.
3 Insert the connecting nipple into one section of the radiator.
4 Tighten the nipple securely using a wrench.
5 Repeat steps 3 and 4 to attach the other section of the radiator to the connecting nipple.
6 Check for any leaks and tighten connections if necessary.

A bimetallic radiator’s section connections are an essential part of maintaining your home’s effective insulation and heating. You can maximize the efficiency of your heating system and keep your home comfortable by following the right procedure.

First and foremost, before beginning the process, make sure you have all the required equipment and supplies. This includes the bimetallic radiator sections, of course, as well as a pipe cutter, pipe wrench, and pipe thread sealant. Having everything ready will make the installation go more smoothly and reduce any possible delays.

After that, make sure the pipes fit snugly in between the radiator sections by carefully measuring and cutting them to the proper lengths. Make sure you cut precisely to prevent leaks or problems with fitting later on. Use a pipe thread sealant after the pipes have been cut to guarantee a tight and safe connection between the sections.

It is important to pay attention to the orientation and alignment of the pipes when connecting the sections. A properly aligned radiator will have uniform hot water distribution and flow, which will maximize heating efficiency. Before tightening the connections, take your time aligning the sections until they are precisely in place.

It’s crucial to test the system for leaks or problems after connecting the sections. After turning on the heating system, look around the connections for any indications of water leakage. If leaks are found, fix them right away by adding more sealant or tightening the connections.

Finally, you can take advantage of the advantages of a correctly installed bimetallic radiator once the connections are tight and the system is operating as intended. You’ll save money on energy bills over time in addition to staying toasty and comfortable during the winter with effective insulation and heating. Your heating system will continue to run at its best for many years to come with regular maintenance and inspections.

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