Grubka with own hands

Appropriate insulation is essential for keeping your house warm and comfortable during the winter. Installing a "grubka," a term used frequently in DIY circles to refer to a homemade insulation material, is one practical way to improve insulation. Because it is reasonably easy to make and can be made from a variety of materials, grubka is a popular option for homeowners trying to lower their heating expenses and increase energy efficiency.

You can customize the insulation to match your needs and budget by making your own grubka. Grubka can be tailored to offer your home the best possible thermal performance, whether you’re insulating the walls, floors, or ceilings. Additionally, creating your own insulation can be a fulfilling do-it-yourself project that gives you control over the comfort of your house while also saving you money.

The adaptability of grubka is one of its key advantages. Grubka is often made with easily accessible materials that can be found around the house or inexpensively purchased from local stores, in contrast to traditional insulation materials that may require professional installation or specialized equipment. It is a desirable alternative for homeowners who wish to upgrade their insulation without going over budget because of its accessibility.

Grubka has advantages for the environment in addition to being reasonably priced and simple to install. You can lessen the environmental effect of heating your home and your carbon footprint by using natural or recycled materials to make insulation. Homeowners seeking sustainable upgrades to their living areas find this eco-friendly feature particularly appealing.

Materials needed Step-by-step instructions
Rolls of insulation material (fiberglass or foam) Measure the space between studs and cut the insulation to fit.
Protective gear (gloves, mask, goggles) Put on protective gear before handling insulation to prevent irritation.
Utility knife or insulation cutter Cut insulation material to size using a utility knife or insulation cutter.
Foam board adhesive or insulation hangers Secure insulation in place using foam board adhesive or insulation hangers.
Sealant or tape Seal any gaps or seams with sealant or tape to prevent air leaks.

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Grubka on wood with their own hands

A stove is a necessity for many people who live in private homes. In the past, people valued and loved this aspect of human habitation. The stove serves to warm, feed, and heal. The owners are not in a rush to give up the gas in the house, and this structure should be taken into consideration first when building new homes.

Ruskies were comfortable Little Russian stoves. that featured a stovetop, and they’re starting to gain popularity again today. When constructing a house, grubka on wood constructed by hand can be assembled, or it can be built into a prefabricated room.

Grubka cooked over wood with your own hands

The Hollandok stoves gained popularity when they were introduced to Russia due to their sleek, small design. However, it seems. The locals thought they were pretty useless. and so they were updated, including a bedstead and an addition to the building plan. When it was discovered to be a Russian-Dutch stove variation, it was dubbed "Grubka." It can be used for both cooking and heating, and it can occasionally be heated with wood and a fireplace.

Various models of these stoves were developed, including ones with a rookery at table level, high up, almost under the ceiling, and on the side or back.

The brick oven, like all brick heating structures, has its own systematic masonry scheme that serves as a guide while working. You can see how the procedure ought to proceed after taking into account the suggested plan. A 25 to 30 square meter room can be heated by the furnace that is being presented. м.

Simple but efficient oven grubber

However, you must gather all the supplies required for this odd piece of art’s device before you begin construction.

The furnace requires the following supplies:

Eight hundred red bricks.

  • silicate bricks for the furnace 150 pcs.;
  • cast-iron doors for the furnace 25×21 cm, 25×13 cm under-blower – 1 piece each. and 18×10 – 5 pcs .;
  • cast iron chimney latch 25×13 cm -2 pcs.;
  • cooker with two burners 71 × 41 – 1 pc.;
  • grate for the firebox 25×25 cm -1 piece.;
  • oven size 31 × 37 × 28 cm;
  • metal corner 5×5 or 4,5×4,5 cm;
  • crushed stone and rebar for the foundation;
  • steel wire for fixing the doors;
  • cement. sand, gravel, clay or a special dry mix for fireplace masonry .

In order to avoid discovering during work that something is missing, it is best to take all the materials with a small reserve.

Mortar for masonry

These days, building supply stores sell the mortar needed to lay the furnace, but you can also prepare it yourself. Not only is homemade mortar far less expensive, but it also has benefits.

In the past, masonry was done using a mortar composed of clay and sand, but it takes a long time to dry and frequently develops cracks when fired. For this reason, I’d like to share a recipe for a different kind of mortar that is more flexible and has good adhesion.

Sand, cement, and regular clay—which is taken out when digging pits or wells—are needed to make mortar. After diluting it to the consistency of thick sour cream, rub it over a grid. The purpose of doing this is to remove small stones and debris.

Several ratios are used to prepare the mortar, depending on how much fat is in the clay. You must prepare ten distinct versions, weighing between 20 and 50 grams each, in order to identify which is the best. Every type of mortar has one part cement and one part of:

  • 10 parts of clay and 1 part of sand;
  • 9 parts of clay and 2 parts of sand ;
  • 8 parts of clay and 3 parts of sand, and so on, gradually reducing by 1 unit the amount of clay and, accordingly, increasing the proportion of sand.

After that, the samples are arranged in different boxes, and you have to wait for them to dry fully. The one that contains more clay and won’t crack after drying out will be the best of them. You must write the amount and types of ingredients used in this specific composition on the boxes.

The following benefits are provided by the mortar’s composition:

  • it is made of affordable materials;
  • it is durable even without firing;
  • When heated, the dry mortar is burned;
  • It dries very quickly, thanks to the presence of cement in it;
  • after drying, it becomes much more resistant to moisture than traditional mortar .

The first step in laying a foundation is to prepare the excavation pit, which should be at least 50 cm deep and occasionally even deeper. In unstable, pudgy soils, where any building requires more significant strengthening, very deep foundations are made.

The stove’s foundation is a sturdy one.

  • If the foundation is installed in a finished building, it is necessary to mark the floor and remove a part of it where the stove will be installed. The size of the site under the foundation should be 15 – 20 cm more in each direction than the first row of masonry grubka .
  • The bottom of the pit is well tamped and lined with clay, its layer is from 10 to 15 cm.
  • Then comes a layer of crushed stone of 10 – 12 cm.
  • The next lining will be a layer of gravel.
  • A wooden formwork is installed, reinforcing nets are laid.
  • It is poured with a butoconcrete mixture, its thickness should be 20 – 25 cm as a minimum. The concrete foundation should be deepened into the ground and the above-ground part, also 20 – 25 cm.
  • After the cement screed has hardened, a waterproofing material is spread over its entire area. e.g. roofing felt. The first row of masonry will be laid on it.

Laying the stove

Each stoveman has his own secrets, acquired over the years of work. But even some experienced craftsmen, starting masonry, before mixing the mortar, lay the whole construction dry. This is done to make sense of the configuration of each row. In addition, before laying on the mortar, each row is also laid dry, so that it is possible to adjust the bricks in size. And only then produce a laying row with mortar. It is best to stick to these tricks and carry out the process without hurrying, so as not to make fatal mistakes, in which there will not be a good draft or on the contrary, all the heat will go into the pipe.

General arrangement for setting up a grubka variation

The most significant rows’ masonry, which is supported by stacked cast-iron and metal components, is depicted in the scheme. Following the action plan is crucial to performing the remaining rows correctly.

Organizing the first few rows

  • The first row should be laid out accurately and neatly on the marked surface, as it will give the direction of the whole construction. To do this, it is necessary to control the evenness of the masonry with the help of a level and a corner. This row is continuous and does not have complex configurations, as well as the second.

Arrange rows three through eight.

  • From the third row begins the work that requires special attention and skill, because the correctness of their laying will depend on the operation of the furnace. On the third row, all the bottom doors of the blowhole openings are installed. They are fixed with steel wire. The diagram clearly shows the movement of warm air, which warms the whole construction, including the cot.
  • The oven is installed on the fifth row. Do not forget that a hollow opening is left near it. where the heated air will be retained longer.
  • From the sixth row, start laying the firebox with silicate bricks, here the grate is also laid.
  • In the seventh row on the place where the chimney begins, lay the first slide, and also install the furnace door.
  • The eighth row is the completion of laying the surface of the stove, it must be perfectly flat, otherwise you will feel all the bumps with your back.

Rows with the hob installed, numbered nine through eleven

  • The ninth row is laid in the same pattern as the tenth row. After its completion, a reinforcing frame welded from a metal angle is installed. On the eleventh row, the cooktop is installed.

The stove-grubka’sverticalportion’s layout

  • The next rows follow the pattern. On the thirty-first put a gate valve, around which the chimney masonry is carried out.
  • In the attic flooring chimney pipe should be insulated with isover from flammable parts of the building structure. The head of the pipe is led to the roof, waterproofing is arranged around it, and a special umbrella is put on top.

Grubka models with a shelf

Grubka stoves come in a variety of designs, as previously mentioned, and the stove bed, firebox, and cooking plate can be placed in different places. It is worthwhile to weigh a few of them in order to determine which one to choose.

A newly arranged potbelly stove creates a warm niche.

In this picture, a newly constructed stove is being installed in a house that is still being built. A well-placed shelf will make a great place to relax in privacy. To help conserve heat, separate furnaces are set up for the cooktop and the bed.

Nobody will want to lie in a hot bed in the summer, but the stove can be handy for cooking, and it can heat up quickly to the right temperature without warming the bed.

Above the stove is a drying area that can also be used to store loose goods. In any case, it never hurts to have an additional kitchen shelf.

A domestic cat will find this place and it will quickly become his favorite shelter, especially during the winter.

A chimney like that can easily heat two or three rooms.

This stove is in a convenient location because it allows you to simultaneously heat three rooms around it. In one of them, a laying bed is where the roughage exits. The stove’s warm wall will provide warmth to the adjacent room. One side of the kitchen room will have shelves for drying and a cooking stove and firebox.

When it’s cold outside, this kind of stove can heat practically the entire house, dry wet shoes and clothes, and prepare a hot lunch. It will always be a trustworthy assistance. All you need to do to make your home comfortable is add wood to it and start a fire.

Fits perfectly even with the room’s ultramodern design

A large room where you can set up both the kitchen and dining room is a good fit for this rough-in. It will be wonderful to get into a warm bed after experiencing the frost. The steps are positioned on the opposite side of the stove for ease of use. Firewood has its own niche, where it will always be dry. The focal point of this room’s interior is the stove, which serves as the house’s functional hub and produces a cozy, comfortable ambiance.

What is not a ready-made bed, a grubka of light-colored bricks?

This brute model has a double bed, which functions similarly to a bed; all that needs to be done is place a mattress on it and adjust the linens. A stove that is heated in the evening during the winter will keep the occupants warm until the morning. Although the stove only has one burner, it is still possible to cook food or warm a kettle. Above the range is a drying chamber that serves multiple functions. It is impossible to miss the wall panel with its tiny shelves, which are perfect for organising your best books.

The entire structure is constructed from light-colored silicate bricks, which gives it exclusivity as these bricks are typically only used to lay fireboxes.

Watch the attached video to learn the insider tips and tricks of the stoveman’s work when laying out, say, gruberka on wood:

Video – wood stove with your own hands

To build a stove in the house is a very responsible and rather complicated matter. If you have never dealt with such work, then maybe it would be better to entrust it to a qualified stoveman who has already put together more than a dozen of such structures. But, if you want to take a risk and try your hand, follow all the recommendations that will help you successfully complete the case.

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Gruba stove with their own hands: from a simple dacha to two-story for a house with a heated attic

A decent source of confusion is the oven. The fact that there is disagreement over the term "rough" or "rough". A gruba is a wood stove with 150–200 bricks for a summer kitchen, or it can be used as a cooking and heating appliance for a home in Western and some South Slavic languages. Indeed, and in accordance with the request in the runet fly out stoves (!!) cap stoves (!), Swedish, Dutch, and bath (!). You may even come across claims that, for example, there once existed an exceptional stove designer named Grub.

In fact, the stove with a grubka, or just a gruba is a compact heating and cooking stove with a heating panel, Separate from the stove on the thermal cycle, but united technologically, t.е. They are built together (see. also further). Hence, the conclusion that the hubcap bruba can not be – heating panels to the furnaces are always ducted. Gruba with their own hands is built easier than a duct furnace of equal thermal capacity with a single heat cycle, requires less materials and weighs less. However, its thermal efficiency (analogous to the efficiency of stoves) is lower. That is why grubes are built in seasonally inhabited premises or small houses with good thermal insulation, where some overconsumption of fuel in absolute and monetary terms does not affect the budget.

Note: 12 kW of heat requires up to 1200 heating and cooking bricks; Dutch ovens with the same power but no cooking surface require 1200–1350 bricks, Swedish ovens require 1800–2000 bricks, and Russian ovens require 2500–3500 bricks.

We’ll walk you through the process of effectively and economically insulating your home in our article on "DIY Insulation." Insulation is essential for both lowering energy costs and keeping interior temperatures comfortable. Everything from choosing the appropriate materials to providing detailed installation instructions will be covered. Whether you’re insulating your floors, walls, or attic, we’ll offer helpful hints and tips to make sure the job is done correctly. You’ll be able to take on insulation projects with confidence and improve the comfort and energy efficiency of your house all year long with our simple-to-follow guide.


Grubka with their own hands can be built with a panel, built into the body (structure) of the stove, and then it is indistinguishable from the stove, pos. 1 in Fig. Grubka-plate is compact, the least material-intensive, the lightest, requires a minimum amount of additional construction work, but its thermal capacity is limited to 10-12 kW, and that with a lot of stress. That"s why rough plates are mostly used in seasonal summer houses (spring-autumn) with occasional trips there in winter, hunting cabins, etc.п. An important advantage of the rough slab is that it can be built without a foundation directly on the floor, if its load-bearing capacity is not less than 500 kgf/sqm. м.

Grub with an attached panel (pos. 2) is more complicated structurally and heavier, although the simplified foundation (see the following table). below) is also suitable for it, but its heat capacity is potentially greater. A wood-fired grub with an attached panel can develop up to 16-18 kW; a coal-fired grub can develop up to 20-22 kW. The scheme of flue gas current in a chimney with a panel is given on pos. 3; the popular Galanka stove is built according to such a model. However, you need to know that it makes no sense to build a groove for more than 3 turns: such a stove with a single cycle will turn out to be simpler and cheaper. In addition, when building it will be necessary to be especially attentive to some features of the stoves-grub, the consideration of which is devoted to a significant part of the material of the article.

Note: Refer to "Calculation of the heat efficiency of a wood-fired sauna heater" for information on designing the wood-fired sauna heater with a sauna bed. moreover. Such a stove should not be heated with coal as it will overheat.

Why coarse is coarse

Visually, a coarse stove can be distinguished from a stove with a later attached shield by the integrity of the construction (pos. 4), but in essence they are the same thing. Calculation of a heat-efficient stove is very complex and requires a fairly deep knowledge of thermal engineering, and the development of the design of the stove on the basis of its results and solid practical experience. It is much easier to design and build a chimney because its firebox and flue are calculated separately, and then "glued" together according to the rules of interfacing building structures, taking into account the requirements of thermal engineering. Naturally, the thermal efficiency of the resulting appliance will be lower, as.к. the interaction between the thermal cycles of the firing part and the panel is not taken into account, but it is by taking this into account that it is possible to increase the efficiency of a single-cycle stove. Therefore, If you live in areas with a harsh climate, a rough stove may make sense for you only as a seasonal stove for temporary use.

Firebox, panel and chimney

A stronger firebox and the lack of a pass (smoke tooth) in the firebox section are the primary distinctions between the brute and the solid fuel stove. With a summer stove, this tooth retains hot gases beneath the cooking surface, allowing you to use less fuel to cook. In the coarse, t.к., it is not required. We’ll use the extra heat for heating.

The additional resistance of the panel to the flue gas current means that the Grubka stove needs a stronger furnace. Here, a draftier chimney won’t help since the gases inside the panel will quickly expand and cool. Their mechanical energy will be successfully transformed from their thermal energy and fly into the pipe. Strictly speaking, the furnace with the shield and chimney operate according to the pull-push principle, with the furnace with the larger capacity acting as the "push" in this instance. This clarifies the unique specifications for the rough stoves’ furnace and furnace fittings; for more information, refer to Fig.

The types of heating panels used in heaters vary based on their intended use. The following figure shows the schemes for heating panels to stoves; the fuel portion is displayed in a conventional manner throughout.

Furnace heating panel schematics

  1. Sequential stroke with short vertical channels. It is the least material-intensive and the easiest to build. The resistance to the current of gases is the greatest. Compactness and thermal efficiency of the stove are average. Most often used scheme;
  2. Sequential run with horizontal channels. Mass dimensions of the furnace are the same as in the previous one. case, but it is much more difficult to build a panel with horizontal ducts. Resistance to the flue gas current approx. 1.5 times less. As a consequence, the thermal efficiency of the furnace is higher. It is possible to build a couch, t.е. the upper channel does not warm up much;
  3. Sequential run with long vertical ducts. Thermal efficiency is like a panel with horizontal ducts, technological complexity is like a panel with short vertical ducts. It occupies the smallest area, but requires a lot of materials and a good foundation (see the following table). below) due to the high specific pressure on the support. Optimal variant for a house heating stove for 2-3 rooms, cm. further;
  4. Parallel layout. The highest thermal efficiency, the least weight per unit of heat output. The occupied area and technological complexity are the largest. It can be used with a furnace of reduced capacity. Optimal for an extension to an existing stove without remodeling it.

Note: Staggered or series-parallel stoves are also available. The least resistance to the flow of gases is found in the most complex, yet lightest, materials. Cm. further, the only viable choice for a home with a heated attic.

Special requirements

Let’s reiterate the benefits of the rough: its compactness and the ability to be built inside an existing home without requiring extensive construction. However, it is difficult to install a more powerful furnace in a furnace with the same overall dimensions because of the excessive heat load, which will cause everything to break down very quickly. Unless there are particular needs for:

  • Furnace foundation.
  • Masonry mortars.
  • Methods of masonry construction of the stove.
  • Selection and methods of installation of stove fittings.

Fig. shows how the foundation under the rough floor is constructed. Before pouring, the crushed stone bed is leveled to the horizon without sand backfill. pouring a 1:2 mixture of sand, cement, and M150 mortar. There is a 30–40 mm space between the flooring and the rubble foundation. Remember to assist the sliced laths! It’s a common but disgusting mistake to leave their ends hanging. The foundation’s dimensions in the plan should at least extend 100–150 mm over the stove’s outline.

Laying the framework for a coarse stove

Note: As shown in the following table, the brick bed on the foundation beneath the stove is laid with dressings in rows and in between rows, just like the stove’s first two rows of masonry.

Three different types of mortars are used to assemble a gruba; see rice below. Lime mortar provides adequate heat and moisture resistance, so it is used for both the foundation and the chimney’s bedding. However, cement-sand mortar that is highly moisture-resistant should only be used for the chimney. Rough-grained sand from mountains or ravines is ideal for use in clay mortar. Ordinary clay is kiln clay that has been bought, assured to be fat and, most importantly, pure. For the masonry of the bases, self-excavated clay that has been brought to the necessary fatness with sand is not very useful.

Masonry mortar compositions for oven-gruba

Kilns are used for the masonry of Gruba, and if the poryadovku (refer to the table below). Additionally, fireclay brick is available; red working brick of the best caliber is suitable; it is a light red color (quite annealed), free of warping, bloating, and overburning spots. Dry-formed bricks are not at all appropriate. The following procedures are followed when masonry is completed on the structure. guidelines:

  • If you are an inexperienced kiln mason, each row of masonry is first laid out on dry; any defects found by trimming/stripping the bricks are eliminated.
  • Each brick is soaked before laying on the mortar until air bubbles are no longer released. It is not allowed to shove all the bricks into the barrel!
  • A 5 mm layer of mortar is applied to the bed and the poke of the brick to be laid.
  • The brick to be laid is laid in a smooth movement with a slight inclination and pushed against the previous brick so that no air bubbles are left in the joint.
  • The brick is pressed down until the joint comes together to 3 mm; tapping is not allowed!
  • Between fireclay and ordinary masonry initial joint 8-10 mm; after pressing – 6 mm.
  • The joint between the bricks and the metal embedded parts (see "The joint between the bricks and the metal embedded parts"). further) – 10 mm.
  • Excess mortar squeezed out of the joint is removed with a trowel (trowel).
  • After removing the excess mortar, the hollows in the joints are filled with mortar by pushing in without cross movements, but not by troweling!

Those who prefer to learn visually video lesson on laying heating and cooking stoves can see below:

Video: masonry heating and cooking stove

Stove door installed incorrectly

Fittings and grates for the coarse are cast iron; doors and latches – with an installation skirt and holes in it for diagonal wire whiskers. Welded steel or cast iron fittings with eyelets for straight whiskers (laid along the same line) – 10 mm. In this case, the door/slide is unsuitable. However, it is not suitable to install the door/slide as shown in fig. right, you can"t use it in the rough; it"s not according to the stove rules at all. For a dacha dutch for 2.5 bricks in the plan, which is stoked once or twice a season, maybe, and will go, but not for the roughs.

In order to prevent them from moving, the whiskers (wire, galvanized 2-3 mm) must first be crimped by twisting. Put it at the appropriate angle (at least 12 mm from the far end of the whisker to the inside of the masonry) and don’t press down too hard at first. Once the door or latch is slightly shaky, carefully tighten it. Not vanished? Adequate. Secondly, the skirt must be tightly wrapped with asbestos cord or basalt fiber before being pinned in place. The following videos can also be watched to learn more about installing stove hardware.

Video: Installing the door to the stove

Video: grates and stove

Examples of constructions

The design of a basic roughing stove for a vacation home or cottage is shown in Fig. below. Features include a niche above the cooking surface and the least amount of fireclay brick (highlighted by textured filling), which is generally difficult to do without in the rough. It expedites the cooking process in cold weather and keeps the stove from overheating the room while it is cooking if the outside temperature is already warm enough.

Simple dacha stove-gruba layout

The design of a single-burner stove is shown in fig. 2, which is also small and light but has a more intricate combined channel system. This choice is more appropriate for a dacha or hunting lodge where people spend their winter weekends.

An everyday-use heating and cooking stove’s layout

The stove layout of a home cooking and heating stove with winter and summer operation switching is shown next in Fig. (two-pass). Although this stove is fairly complicated, it uses very little energy when operating in the summer or winter. An alternative to a one-room or summer house that is occupied year-round.

Poryadovka home’s cooking stove and heating system, complete with a winter and summer adjustment

Along the path. rice. Design and blueprints for a two- to three-room home featuring a fireplace stove (with a glass fire door). This chest is positioned in the partition of a two-bedroom apartment, and in a three-bedroom apartment, it is positioned with the front facing the living room and the back facing the two rooms next to it. The partition separating them rests on the back side of the stove. Yes, 650 bricks isn’t much for a heating stove in a three-room house.

Poryadovka stove-gruba for a two- to three-room home

Now – in Fig. below is a diagram and staging of a coffer with a stove: the cooking part is in the kitchen/entrance hall with a bathroom; the laying part is in the living room. This is already a very complex design for an experienced stove builder. For stoking in warm time the cot is covered with a featherbed and t.п. to keep the room from overheating, but then the windows in the kitchen/hallway will have to be kept open, t.к. There is no switch to summer operation.

A wood-burning stove’s schematic diagram and layout with a stove bed

Finally, a gruba, so to speak, of the highest pilotage, as you can see in the rice below: for a home featuring a heated attic, where an extra panel with spaced-out channels can be found (on the right-hand inset below). If there is a glass firebox door, this stove can also be used as a fireplace stove. It’s two-way; the summer slide is represented by the ZLH in the drawings.

Furnace layouts for a two-story home with a heated attic

About chimneys

All fire safety regulations must be followed by the coarse stove’s chimney. All that needs to be mentioned in this instance is that a sandwich chimney works best for roughnecks and doesn’t require any additional capital construction work.

Many homeowners want to live in a warm and energy-efficient house, and having the right insulation is essential to making this happen. This article has examined the installation of insulation, with a particular emphasis on the "Grubka" method. From comprehending the required materials to following the step-by-step instructions, it is clear that anyone can complete this project on their own with the correct direction and dedication.

The affordability of Grubka insulation is one of its best features. Homeowners can drastically lower their heating and cooling expenses by utilizing easily accessible and frequently affordable materials. Grubka is therefore a sensible choice for people trying to increase energy efficiency without going over budget.

In addition to being reasonably priced, Grubka insulation has significant advantages in terms of thermal efficiency. It contributes to maintaining a comfortable temperature indoors regardless of the outside environment by forming a barrier that stops heat transfer. This not only makes the living area more comfortable overall but also uses less energy over time by reducing the need for heating and cooling systems.

Taking on a Grubka insulation project also makes you feel empowered and satisfied. Having the ability to make improvements to one’s own home’s insulation strengthens one’s bond with it and increases appreciation for the work that goes into keeping it in good condition. The abilities acquired from a project like this can also be helpful for other do-it-yourself projects.

In summary, Grubka insulation offers itself as a practical and profitable choice for homeowners looking to improve their home’s comfort and energy efficiency. It’s an inexpensive, practical, and do-it-yourself project that is worth thinking about for anyone trying to make their home cozier, warmer, and more environmentally friendly.

Video on the topic


a wood stove with your own hands is easy

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Sergey Ivanov

I like to help people create comfort and comfort in their homes. I share my experience and knowledge in articles so that you can make the right choice of a heating and insulation system for your home.

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