Gruba with his own hands scheme and design

Are you sick and weary of having drafty, cold rooms and expensive heating costs? Effective insulation is crucial for preserving a cozy and energy-efficient living environment, regardless of the season—be it the scorching winter or the sweltering summer. Installing a "gruba," a type of insulation frequently used in construction, is one efficient way to improve insulation. This post will discuss the advantages of utilizing gruba insulation and provide you a detailed installation and design guide.

Rigid foam insulation, sometimes referred to as gruba insulation, is a flexible material with superior heat resistance. Gruba panels are long-lasting and lightweight due to their construction from expanded polystyrene (EPS) or extruded polystyrene (XPS), which makes them easy to work with. Gruba insulation can help you keep your living area cooler in the summer and lessen heat loss in the winter, which will lower your energy costs and improve comfort.

Gruba insulation has several benefits, one of which is its broad range of applications. Depending on your specific requirements, gruba panels can be customized for use as roof, wall, or floor insulation. Gruba insulation is also moisture-resistant, which makes it perfect for use in moist or humid spaces like bathrooms or basements. Gruba can improve indoor air quality and general health by preventing the growth of mold and mildew when installed properly.

Let’s talk about how to design and install gruba insulation in your home now that you are aware of its advantages. Assessing your insulation needs and identifying the areas that need improvement is the first step. This can entail looking for any gaps or inadequacies in the insulation in your foundation, attic, and walls. Planning your Gruba installation can start as soon as you’ve determined which areas need attention.

It’s crucial to take into account aspects like R-value, thickness, and compatibility with other building materials when designing your gruba insulation system. The R-value indicates how well insulation resists heat flow, so it’s important to choose fiberglass panels with the right value for your climate zone. Additionally, maximizing insulation without compromising valuable living space can be ensured by selecting the proper gruba panel thickness.

Now that you have your design finalized, it’s time to acquire the supplies and equipment needed for installation. Gruba panels, mechanical or adhesive fasteners, a utility knife, a straightedge, and safety gear like goggles and gloves are required. Prior to starting the installation, make sure the surfaces are ready and that you handle and cut the gruba panels according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

After installing the gruba insulation in accordance with your plan, carefully check your work and fix any gaps or irregularities. Ensuring optimal efficiency and performance from your gruba insulation system requires proper seam and edge sealing. Now that your house is adequately insulated, you can take advantage of increased comfort, cheaper energy costs, and the assurance that you’ve made a positive contribution to a more sustainable future.

Materials Needed	Tools Required
Insulation (foam boards, fiberglass, etc.)	Tape measure
Vapor barrier (plastic sheeting)	Utility knife
Stud finder	Saw (if cutting insulation)
Hammer	Nails/screws
Sealant/caulk	Protective gear (gloves, mask)

Types of constructions of stoves from red brick

Even in the XXI century, home masters and folk craftsmen are constantly improving and inventing new designs of stoves, different and multifunctional. And such interest in stove heating is not accidental – in case of emergency, the Russian stove (or any other design that works autonomously) is always ready to support the house warmth and comfort. Even in standard situations without a conventional stove can not do without it – in every season there is a period when the night is already cold, but the central heating is not yet working, and the autonomous boiler to turn on early. This is where your own homemade stove comes in handy, and how to put together a Russian stove, we will consider below.

A classic-looking traditional Russian stove

Building a stove by hand is a cost-effective solution for inexperienced stove builders. The various variations of the orderly laying drawings and schemes are shown below. Find out what area the stove can heat if you want to go with a different design. Stoves are classified as having three main functions: heating, cooking, and combined.

A stove for cooking and heating the house

Heating and cooking stove made of brick with their own hands is designed not only for heating several adjacent rooms, but also for full-fledged cooking – on the stove or in the oven. Such a structure is most often attached to the wall, its chimney (popularly called the chimney system "chimney") serves as a wall of the adjoining room, and the cooking stove and oven ("oven") are located in the kitchen room. That is, this variant of the brick stove kills two birds with one stone – it heats the rooms, and food can be cooked on the stove, and in a separate room allocated for the kitchen. Additionally, the heating and cooking stove can be equipped with a fireplace, and then it will also carry a design load.

Stove used in the home for cooking and room heating

Stove for home heating

An oven and stove are not included in a stove version intended solely for home heating. There are various locations for such a stove: a corner, the middle of the room, the wall version, or in between rooms. Since such a design lacks a cooking stove, it can be enhanced with a built-in fireplace to increase its usefulness.

A stove for heating without a cooking function

When you just need to occasionally heat the furnace and warm the house—in the spring and fall—this type of furnace design serves two purposes: it heats the housing both primary and auxiliaryly. Keeping the house at a steady temperature will help prevent issues with excessive humidity and the growth of mold. This is particularly crucial for wooden homes. When cooking appliances are present, stove schemes like these can be realized. Take a stove, for instance—gas or electric. Larger homes may allow you to install multiple stoves, each with a distinct purpose, such as one for cooking, one for heating, and so forth. д.

Cooking stove

Russian ovens designed primarily for cooking are typically found in kitchens; their utilitarian design permits only cooking and prevents large-scale space heating. Even so, the adjacent rooms and the kitchen itself will always be warm.

An oven that lets you cook without heating the entire house

A narrowly functional brick oven used only for cooking is always a compact construction, which is why they are frequently found in small cottages or in private homes with tiny kitchens. If only the kitchen stove was like that, it wouldn’t freeze during extreme cold or other emergencies!

The stoves with the aforementioned modifications come in a variety of versions. Consider the stove’s dimensions, capabilities, and the most popular energy source in the area. As a result, it’s critical to create a project for the stove, create design sketches or drawings, attach all of this to the construction site, and assess visually whether the chosen model fits your room.

Choosing to build a brick oven

To guarantee the home’s fire safety, the stove’s location as an open fire source is crucial. Furthermore, safety precautions shouldn’t cause the stove to lose its heating efficiency.

Choosing a site and beginning construction

It is common for the stove to be constructed after the house, so it is necessary to precisely calculate the space for the chimney to pass through the ceiling floor support beams. Determining all of the geometric dimensions of the structure is crucial for both usability and fire safety.

1. The most efficient heating is provided if the furnace is located not near any external wall, but inside the room, even in the center. Heating the outside walls with a stove does not contribute to the heat transfer into the house;
2. Placing the stove in the center of the room or with a shift in any direction will work when zoning a room with a stove. The stove itself in this case can play the role of a design partition, when in one zone will be one design, including the side of the stove, which is included in this zone, and in another zone – a completely different design;
3. If the furnace does not have a built-in water heating boiler, then to maximize the effect of heating the house, the furnace is better located so that it is part of the maximum number of rooms. This can be even three or four rooms at once, but such an optimal plan is easier to realize when building the house itself with the simultaneous erection of the stove in the calculated place;
4. When choosing a place for the stove, remember that all sides of the foundation base for it should be 10-15 cm wider than the perimeter of the stove;
5. For a more accurate definition of the dimensions of the furnace its drawings should be attached to the order of masonry scheme. If the furnace project was ordered and not made by yourself, then such a scheme should be demanded from the contractor.

Plan for laying the Russian stove in an organized manner

Following the project’s design, the location and plan for the Russian stove’s construction should be determined by the estimate. Materials and tools, including specific stove tools, should be acquired.

Tools for laying a Russian stove

1. Rule – a long aluminum or metal lath, pulling it through the mortar to level its surface;
2. Special kiln hammer in the form of a small pickaxe – to pound and trim the brick;
3. Veselka – a small wooden spatula, a substitute for a foreman, it is convenient to rub the mortar on the masonry;
4. A small brush, broom or broom to clean the inside of the channels of excess mortar;
5. Plumb bob, construction metal angle and level to check the evenness of bricklaying;
6. Drawer – steel rod for marking on bricks. If the stove will be tiled, then the drafting tool will need to be made of lead;
7. Pliers, rasp, chisel, rubber or wooden mallet;
8. Building trowels of different sizes (trowels) and trowels – rubber and metal;
9. Expansion – a steel rod with a shaped notch for leveling the mortar in the inter-brick joints;
10. A tamper – a wooden chunk of 20-25 cm with an attached handle made of lath. Needed for compacting the soil under the base of the stove and tamping the sand and gravel cushion under the foundation;
11. Construction tubs or any suitable containers to prepare clay and cement mortar;
12. Fine sieve Sieve for sifting clay and sand;
13. Scaffolding, stepladder, "gantry".

Equipment and supplies needed to construct the stove

Foundation for the stove

A deep foundation, which is ideal for a furnace, should be laid at the same time as the house and the building’s foundation in order to ensure proper construction. Simultaneously, these bases should never come into contact with one another because freshly poured bases will inevitably shrink, deforming the structure and possibly destroying the nearby foundation.

The floor boards must unavoidably be removed to the size of the foundation if the furnace is installed in a completed home with a wooden floor. Following that, the trench is dug and all necessary work for building the foundation is completed. Although it is simpler to integrate the foundation into one structure with the floor screed, it is still required if the floor is concrete and the screed is thin.

The base of a Russian stove

On the wooden floor, the perimeter of the stove foundation is marked. The boards in this area are removed, and a 700 mm-deep hole is dug. You can dig a shallower pit in solid ground, but it doesn’t hurt to be reinsured if the soil analysis hasn’t been done. The trench’s walls and bottom need to be packed down to safeguard the roofing felt or polyethylene waterproofing.

The foundation equipment scheme is standard: formwork made of wood, sheet iron, slate, or plywood is mounted on the bottom after it has been covered with a cushion of sand and crushed stone up to 20 cm thick and tamped. Since the waterproofing will keep moisture from leaking from the concrete mortar into the soil, it is not necessary to remove it before erecting the formwork.

Section’s foundation

In order to accommodate two rows of red bricks on top of the concrete foundation, the foundation’s height should be 25 cm lower than floor level. A reinforcement frame consisting of Ø 4-6 mm rods is formed within the formwork and secured with binding wire.

Standard concrete mortar proportions are 1:3:3 (cement, sand, and crushed stone) when pouring the foundation beneath the furnace. The mixture should then be further diluted with water to create a thick, creamy mass that should fall from the shovel in one piece rather than flow. In the event that crushed stone or another aggregate is not available, regular cement-sand mortar will work. A metal mesh for reinforcement is laid on top of the poured mortar and sunk to a depth of 15-20 mm after the mortar has been leveled with a rule on the upper edge of the formwork.

Until the foundation reaches the stated strength of roughly 70%, the work will now be stopped for a period of 28 days. The earlier you begin construction, the thinner the concrete layer. The best part is that concrete sets and hardens in a humid environment, so during the first two to three days, the foundation’s surface should be continuously moistened, either by spraying or watering from a watering can. Failing to do so will cause the top layer of concrete to set sooner and the mortar to set deeper, tearing the top crust and creating cracks (cement expands slightly when it hardens). In this instance, waterproofing has to be applied to the foundation following each moistening.

You could use the stove to heat a small summer house.

Before laying the first row of bricks on the waterproofing, a marking is made in the size of the stove. Lay bricks first without mortar to understand how to correctly tie the bricks in the structure, and if necessary, to remake some part of the stove. Dry masonry is a lengthy process, as the entire stove (not including the chimney) must be laid dry. But such a scrupulous approach will save you from mistakes in the main masonry on the mortar, when it will be very difficult to change anything without disturbing the finished places of masonry. Dry kiln is laid out according to the attached to the project scheme poryadovki, which may look like this:

Sequential brick-laying plan for the stove

Here, you can see how bricks should be laid—in a quarter, full, or half brick—as well as which row to lay in what order. There must be attention paid to the size of every row, both vertical and horizontal, when laying kiln-dry masonry. Limiting the horizontal joint’s thickness with 5-millimeter wooden laths makes the process simpler. Visually, vertical joints are limited "by eye." Once the entire construction is dry, you can measure the stove’s actual height and possibly make adjustments to the plan regarding the chimney’s layout or the stove’s design.

Important: When it comes to further expanding the brick joints between the oven, dry masonry is an essential component of any oven construction plan.

Understanding the functioning of the chimney channel from the furnace chamber to the chimney itself requires a thorough study of all the hot gas passageways, which is made easier with dry masonry. Otherwise, you run the risk of making many mistakes, some of which will be irreversible, if you build the oven at random without first studying the plan and dry-laying the structure. For instance, it is quite simple to construct the stove such that, in the event of a reverse draft, smoke enters the house rather than the chimney. Stated differently, all of the effort will be in vain.

Inadequate bricklaying can result in reverse draught.

How the basic bricklaying is done

The temporary framework is taken down once the kiln’s height has been dry-laid. Organize the process carefully. If full bricks can be stacked in a single stack, then half and quarter bricks should be labeled with the number of rows, the location of each row, and the amount of each brick, so that they are not mixed up. The master will only need to tear the pre-measured brick, wet it with water, and lay it on the verified spot on the clay mortar, which will greatly speed up the basic masonry process and ensure that you are not confused when laying again.

Bricklaying regulations

When carrying out the main masonry on the edges of the bricks in the previous row, two calibration wooden laths are laid, and between them puts mortar with a layer of 60-70 mm. The bricks of the upper row are laid on the mortar – it must be tapped with a mallet until it is fully aligned with the laths. A set of three pairs of such calibration laths is necessary to keep the process of masonry does not stop – you can take out the lath, clamped in the mortar between the bricks, only when the mortar is fully seized. Therefore, the following is done: after laying three rows of bricks, the laths are removed from the bottom joint and placed on the fourth row above, having previously cleaned them from the mortar. If there is a small difference in the size of the vertical joints, you can make a short template from the lath to maintain dimensionality, and move it into the next joint after the neighboring bricks are aligned.

Bricklaying over clay mortar

A large, mortar-clogged space opens up between the bricks when the laths are removed from the joint. Using a trowel or trowel (trowel), remove any excess mortar, and then expand the seam once the mortar has set.

In the process of laying laths on both sides of the brick, there will still be gaps in the masonry that need to be filled in completely with clay mortar. If this isn’t done, residual air from heating and cooling the bricks will eventually push the bricks apart, creating a microcrack that could eventually become a problem. Every row and every brick within a row needs to be leveled; even the smallest structural misalignment when the furnace is operating in the mode of contrasting temperatures will cause the furnace to collapse.

The proper way to fold the oven using your hands revised on March 7, 2017 by kranch0

Continue reading about the subject.

Oven-grub with their own hands: from a simple dacha to two-storey for a house with a heated attic

There is some degree of confusion regarding the grouba furnace. The thing to remember is that "rough" is not a term that is widely used. A gruba is a wood stove for a summer kitchen with 150–200 bricks, or it can be used as a cooking and heating appliance for a home in Western and some South Slavic languages. Indeed, and in line with. Hubcaps (!!), stoves, baths (! ), Dutch, Swedish, etc. You may even come across claims that, for example, there once existed an exceptional stove designer named Grub.

In fact, a grubka stove, or simply a grubka is a compact heating and cooking stove with a heating panel, separate from the kiln in terms of heat cycle, but united technologically, t.е. They are built together (see. also below). Hence, we conclude that there cannot be a hooded sternum – heating panels for furnaces are always ducted. Gruba with their own hands is built simpler than a duct furnace of equal thermal capacity with a single thermal cycle, requires less materials and weighs less. However, its thermal efficiency (analogous to the efficiency of stoves) is lower. Therefore, the roughs are built in seasonally inhabited premises or small houses with good thermal insulation, where some overconsumption of fuel in absolute and monetary terms on the budget does not hit the budget.

Note: Up to 1200 bricks are needed for a brick heating and cooking grube with a 12 kW heat output; similarly, a Dutch oven with the same capacity but no cooking surface needs 1200–1350 bricks, a Swedish oven needs 1800–2000 bricks, and a Russian oven needs 2500–3500 bricks.

Varieties

Grubka with your own hands can be built with a shield built into the body (structure) of the oven, and then it is indistinguishable from a stove, pos. 1 in Fig. Grubka-plate is compact, the least material-intensive, the lightest, requires a minimum amount of additional construction work, but its heat output is limited to 10-12 kW, and that with a lot of tension. That"s why most of them are used in seasonal summer houses (spring-autumn) with occasional trips there in winter, hunting lodges, etc. The Grubka stove is compact, the least material-intensive, the lightest, and requires the most weight.п. An important advantage of a rough-slab is that it can be built without a foundation directly on the floor, if its bearing capacity is not less than 500 kgf/sq. м.

Gruba stove with an attached panel (pos. 2) is more complicated structurally and heavier, although the simplified foundation (see below) is suitable for it as well. below) is also suitable for it, but its heat output is potentially higher. A wood-fired grub with an attached panel can develop up to 16-18 kW; a coal-fired grub can develop up to 20-22 kW. The scheme of flue gas current in a grubber with a shield is given on pos. 3; the popular Galanka stove is built according to this method. However, it is necessary to know that there is no sense to build a grubka for more than 3 turns: such a single-cycle furnace will be simpler and cheaper. In addition, when building should be especially attentive to some of the features of the furnace, the consideration of which is devoted to a significant part of the material in the article.

Note: Refer to the section on "Design and construction of a wood-fired grubka" for information on creating a wood-fired grubka using a stove bed. Moreover. Such a coal should not be stoked because the stove is already too hot.

Why is a coarse stove a coarse stove

You can visually distinguish a gruba stove from a stove with a later attached panel by the solidity of the construction (pos. 4), but in essence they are the same thing. Calculation of tepo-efficient stove is very complex and requires a fairly deep knowledge of thermal engineering, and the development of the design of the stove according to its results and solid practical experience. It is much easier to design and build a grouba because its furnace (fire part) and shield are calculated separately, and then "glued" together according to the rules of conjugation of building structures, taking into account the requirements of thermal engineering. Naturally, the thermal efficiency of the resulting appliance will be lower, t.к. The interaction between the thermal cycles of the firing part and the panel is not taken into account, but it is by taking it into account that it is possible to increase the efficiency of a single-cycle stove. Therefore, If you live in a harsh climate, a gruba may only make sense for you as a seasonal stove for temporary use.

Firebox, panel and chimney

The absence of a pass (smoke tooth) in the furnace section and a stronger furnace are the primary distinctions between a rough and solid fuel stove. In a summer stove, the tooth traps hot gases beneath the cooking surface, lowering the amount of fuel needed for cooking. In a coarse stove, it is not required because the extra heat will be used for heating.

Since the shield adds more resistance to the flow of flue gases, the Grubka stove needs a more potent furnace. Here, a reinforced draught chimney won’t help since the gases inside the panel will instantly expand and cool. Their mechanical energy will be successfully transformed from their thermal energy and fly into the chimney. In a symbolic sense, the firebox and chimney in this stove with a panel function according to the pull-push principle, where "push" refers to a firebox with a larger capacity. For further information, refer to "Stove fittings and furnace fittings." This explains the unique specifications for the coarse stove’s furnace and furnace fittings.

The type of heating panel used for goods varies based on its intended use. Furnace heating panel schemes are shown in the figure below, where the fuel portion is displayed in a standard manner throughout.

Plans for furnace heating panels

1. Sequential stroke with short vertical channels. It is the least material-intensive and the easiest to build. The resistance to gas current is the highest. The compactness and thermal efficiency of the furnace are average. The most frequently used arrangement;
2. Sequential stroke with horizontal ducts. Mass dimensions of the furnace are the same as in the previous one. It occupies the smallest area, but requires a lot of materials and a good foundation (see Fig. 2). Resistance to gas flow approx. 1.5 times less. As a consequence, the thermal efficiency of the furnace is higher. It is possible to build a stack, t.е. the upper channel does not heat up much;
3. Sequential stroke with long vertical channels. Thermal efficiency as in the case of the panel with horizontal channels, technological complexity as in the case of the panel with short vertical channels. It occupies the smallest area, but it requires a lot of materials and a good foundation (see Fig. 2). further) due to the high specific pressure on the support. Optimal variant for a house heating stove for 2-3 rooms, cm. further;
4. Parallel stroke. Highest thermal efficiency, lowest weight per unit of heat output. The occupied area and technological complexity are the largest. It is possible to use with a furnace of reduced capacity. Optimum for an extension to an existing stove without modifying it.

Notably, staggered or series-parallel boards are also available. The lowest resistance to the gas flow is found in the most challenging, yet lightest, material. The sole option for loading into a home with a heated attic is as follows.

Special requirements

To reiterate, the benefits of bricks are their compactness and the ability to be built into an existing home without requiring extensive construction work. However, it is difficult to install a more powerful furnace in a stove structure that is typically the same size because of the excessive heat load; everything will break down very fast. Unless there are particular needs for:

• Furnace foundation.
• Masonry mortars.
• Methods of masonry construction of the stove.
• Selection and methods of installation of stove fittings.

Fig. shows the layout of the foundation beneath the pile. Before pouring, the crushed stone bed is leveled to the horizon without sand backfill. pouring a 1:2 mixture of sand, cement, and M150 mortar. There is a 30–40 mm space between the flooring and the rubble foundation. Remember to assist the cut lags! It’s a common but disgusting error to leave their ends hanging. Plan view dimensions of the foundation must at least extend 100–150 mm onto the furnace’s outline.

Building a furnace foundation

Note: As with the first two rows of the stove’s structure masonry, the brick bed on the foundation beneath the stove is laid with dressing in between and between rows; see below.

Three different types of mortar are used to lay the bricks; refer to the rules under "Mortars for laying bricks" for more information. rice, underneath. Lime mortar is used for the foundation bed and chimney because it provides enough heat and moisture resistance; however, cement-sand mortar that is extremely moisture resistant is the only material that should be used for the chimney. Rough-grained sand from a mountain or ravine is ideal for use in clay mortar. Ordinary clay is kiln clay that has been bought, assured to be fat and, most importantly, pure. When filled with sand to achieve the necessary thickness, self-excavated clay is not very useful for laying bricks.

Masonry mortar compositions for coarse-fired stoves

Kilns and fireclay bricks, if available, are utilized for rough masonry. The best quality red working bricks are those that are light red in color (almost annealed), free of distortion, bloating, and overburning spots. Dry-formed bricks are not at all appropriate. guidelines: The rough building’s masonry is constructed in accordance with the guidelines.

• If you are an inexperienced kiln mason, each row of masonry is first laid dry; any defects found in the trimming/stripping of bricks are corrected.
• Each brick before laying on the mortar is soaked to stop the release of air bubbles. It is not allowed to shove all the bricks into the barrel indiscriminately!
• A layer of mortar of 5 mm is applied to the bed and pier of the brick laid.
• Laying bricks smoothly laid with a slight inclination and pushed to the previous brick, so that there are no air bubbles in the seam.
• The brick is pressed down until the joint comes together to 3 mm; no tapping is allowed!
• Between fireclay and ordinary masonry initial joint 8-10 mm; after pressing – 6 mm.
• The joint between the bricks and the metal embedded parts (cf. below) – 10 mm.
• Remove excess mortar from the joint with a trowel (trowel).
• After removing the excess mortar, the recesses in the joints are filled with mortar by pushing it in without cross movements, but not by troweling!

The following is a video lesson on masonry heating and cooking stoves for those who would rather learn by watching:

Video: laying a heating and cooking stove

Oven door installation gone wrong

Doors and latches with an installation skirt and holes for diagonal wire whiskers; fittings and grates for rude need cast-iron cast. In this instance, welded steel or cast iron hardware with eyelets for straight whiskers (placed along the corresponding stove walls) is not appropriate. However, it is strictly forbidden and against the stove rules to position the door or slide in the rough, as shown in Fig. on the right. Not for the gruba, but for a dacha dutch on 2.5 bricks in the plan, which is heated once or twice a season, maybe.

In order to prevent them from moving, the whiskers (wire, galvanized 2-3 mm) must first be crimped with a twist. Put it at the proper angle (at least 12 mm from the far end of the whisker to the inside of the masonry) and don’t press down too hard at first. Next, slowly tighten while giving the door or slider a little shake. Not vanished? Adequate. Secondly, the skirt must be securely wrapped in basalt fiber or asbestos cord before being reattached. The following videos can also be watched to learn more about installing stove hardware.

Video: Installing the oven door

Video: grates and stove

Examples of constructions

The design of a basic primer for a summer house that is used seasonally or is occupied temporarily is shown in fig. below. The unusual features are the niche above the cooking surface and the sparing use of fireclay bricks, which are indicated by the textured filling. In general, it is hard to do without them. It expedites cooking in the winter and keeps the stove from overheating the room while it cooks, provided the weather is warm enough.

Design of a basic cottage-style coarse stove

Figure 1 illustrates the layout of a compact and lightweight one-burner coarse stove, which is more intricate due to its combined channel system. This choice is more appropriate for a dacha or hunting lodge where people spend their winter weekends.

An everyday-use heating and cooking stove’s layout

The staging of a home cooking and heating stove with switching to winter and summer (two-pass) operation is shown in Fig. after that. Although this stove is highly advanced, it is also very cost-effective to use in the summer and winter. Choice between a one-room house and a summer house that is occupied year-round.

An illustration of a home stove’s layout for cooking and heating in the winter and summer

The layout and drawings of a heating stove, or fireplace stove (with a glass fire door) for a two to three-room house are shown in Fig. This rough is positioned in the partition in the two-room, and in the three-room, it is between the living room and two other rooms in the front and the back, with the partition between them resting on the back of the stove. Yes, 650 bricks isn’t much for a heating furnace in a three-bedroom house.

Poryadovka warming stove for a two to three-room home

Here is a diagram and layout of a rube with a bed found in Figure below: the bed is in the living room, and the cooking area is in the kitchen/entry hall with a bathroom. Even for a skilled stove builder, this construction is extremely complicated. In order to prevent the room from overheating during the warm season, the cot is covered with a featherbed, etc.; however, this means that the kitchen and hallway windows must remain open. Additionally, there is no provision for switching to summer operation.

The heating and cooking stove’s schematic diagram and arrangement with a stove bed

Lastly, for a rough estimate of the highest pilotage, refer to the section below on "The heating stove staging." rice. below: an additional panel with staggered channels for a home with a heated attic (see the right-hand inset below). If the firebox door is glass, this stove can also be used as a fireplace. According to the drawings, it is a 2-pass summer passage slide (ZLH).

Schematic diagram of a two-story heating stove intended for a home with a heated attic

About chimneys

A rude person’s chimney should adhere to all fire safety regulations. Here, it is sufficient to mention that a sandwich chimney works best for a coarse because.к. Furthermore, no additional capital construction work is needed.

In conclusion

If this is, as likely as not, your first stove, take your time building it and practice on a table first. Suddenly, you have a little extra cash, so you can purchase a set of scale plastic bricks and schemes for modeling stoves. No, you can also cut bricks from foam using a scale. Depending on the scale selected, it is then convenient to replicate the masonry seams using strips of thick paper or thin cardboard.

Gruba from brick with your own hands

The stove is a stunning piece of interior design, a great heating appliance, and a window into the owners’ taste and aristocracy. Although a skilled stoveman should perform the furnace’s masonry work, you can now complete the task yourself with the help of detailed instructions and specialized methods. Some stoves include a cast iron stove with multiple burners, an oven, a vat for heating water, and a stove.

Types of stoves

• Russian brick stove with your own hands

Brick oven with multiple uses and a laying area for resting. A firebox and an ashtray beneath the firebox ensure that the material in the firebox burns for the entire amount of time under the stove. There’s a kitchen nook with an oven and a multi-burner cast iron stove to store cooking utensils and hot food.

Russian furnaces typically measure two meters in height, 2.5 meters in length, and 1.5 meters in width. These measurements allow the oven to heat an area larger than 40 square meters.м. Such a stove’s drawback is that it will need a lot of fuel—wood or coal—to heat a typical small house.

• Swedish stove with your own hands

Compact compared to the Russian, with a height of two meters and a maximum width and length of one meter. The stove in question is capable of heating a room and cooking food simultaneously. There was a cast-iron stove with two burners right above the furnace, and an oven was located on the side. The subtlety of this design is that the furnace’s coarse is placed in the adjoining room, while the furnace’s base is situated in the kitchen. The high fire hazard when in use is the only significant drawback. These stoves have extra dampers to help prevent fires.

• Dutch stove with their own hands

The stove’s design was created by Russian stove manufacturers. Such a stove’s primary function is home heating. The compact design and high heat output are its key features. It takes just ten hours for the room to get completely heated with this kind of stove. Such a stove can provide 24 hours of warmth in the spring and fall. The stove’s winding chimney, which produces a lot of heat, is one of its unique design features. One can add an oven, yes.

Since the only bricks used in the construction of this type of oven are kiln bricks, heat can be generated rapidly and then gradually dispersed throughout the space. A stove of this kind will be fairly expensive because such a brick is not an inexpensive pleasure. In addition, there are combination stoves, heating stoves, cooking stoves, and garden stoves.

Brick laying and plan

The stove needs to be safe and meet fire safety regulations before it can be considered beautiful and meet all design specifications. To make sure that everything is done correctly, adhere to the guidelines, and meticulously complete the preparatory phase:

• Development of a design scheme, according to which the masonry will be realized;
• Calculation of the place where the stove will be located;
• Purchase of materials for construction;
• Choice of tools;
• The budget that will be required for the construction, taking into account the purchase of materials.

The plan that calls for them to install the stove at home using their own hands should receive extra consideration. Whether or not the plan was drawn skillfully depends on the outcome. It is important to consider even the smallest details when selecting a project, such as whether it is completely painted, includes step-by-step instructions, and offers solutions for potential issues.

Everything about choosing a location is determined by the owner’s preferred stove type and the area of the house. The selection of the masonry location is fraught with controversy and dilemmas that are challenging for inexperienced kiln builders to answer.

Necessary tools

With the aid of construction tools, stove masonry is completed by hand:

• Drill;
• A shovel in the form of a scoop;
• Sieve for sand, with cells not more than 2 mm;
• A trowel for the construction of the stove;
• A punch for kneading;
• Expander for the density of the mortar;
• Pickaxe;
• Roulette and level;
• Plumb bob;
• Ruler stove ruler, which is a lath of wood with even edges. Rule, usually so called ruler is necessary to check the evenness of the masonry;
• Mops rags that will be needed during the cleaning process.

This post will go over the specifics of creating your own home’s insulation and heating system, with an emphasis on the well-liked do-it-yourself approach of building a "Gruba" (Russian for "pit house"). We’ll simplify the design process by breaking it down into manageable steps, covering everything from pit excavation and location selection to wall insulation and heating system installation. Whether your goal is to lower your energy costs, lessen your environmental impact, or just have a warm and comfortable home in a cold climate, this guide will give you the necessary information and useful advice to build a warm and functional living area.

Purchase of the necessary material

Any stove construction requires the use of sand, clay, and bricks, with the latter requiring the greatest care. Bricks come in three primary varieties on the market:

Facing bricks should be done with your hands facing the furnace. It is preferable to go with the more costly M-250 or M-500 brick brand, which has a high level of material homogeneity. By using these bricks, the stove will be able to tolerate continuous heating and cooling.

Sand needs to be spotless, and a construction sieve is used to achieve this.

Clay comes in three varieties: greasy, normal, and lean. The proportions used to mix the mortar—which will be used to carry out the masonry—depend on the chosen clay. Experts opt for regular clay, which has a fatness ranging from 0.5 to 3.

A brick stove should only be purchased with high-quality materials; otherwise, it won’t survive more than a few years.

Formation of the foundation of the stove for the house with their own hands

The stove’s foundation should ideally be formed at the same time as the house’s foundation. It should be kept in mind that connecting these two foundations should not be done so for the stove to operate more efficiently. The temperature load on a foundation from a house is cold, whereas that from a furnace is hot. These two loads cause foundations to shrink normally at different rates.

Pouring a pit and then continuing with the bricklaying is the standard method for constructing a kiln foundation. Initially, the display of wood formwork is completed. To ensure that the first row of bricks is laid in the proper, obvious order, the foundation must be precisely level and 15 centimeters wider than the future stove.

For the future structure to last longer, roofing felt must be used to waterproof the foundation.

Your home will require a major time and resource commitment to design and implement a heating and insulation system. But the advantages are well worth the initial work. You can better control your comfort and energy efficiency by taking matters into your own hands and designing a plan that meets your unique needs.

The ability to customize your heating and insulation plan to fit the particular features of your house is one of the main benefits of doing it yourself. Using a bespoke approach enables you to effectively address issues whether you’re dealing with a newer build with modern insulation or an older property with uneven heating. You can design a system that maximizes comfort and energy savings by knowing the layout of your house, the local climate, and your energy usage habits.

Plus, taking on a do-it-yourself project gives you the power to make decisions that are kind to the environment. By utilizing renewable energy sources like solar panels or geothermal heating, as well as choosing insulation materials that are friendly to the environment, you can lessen your carbon footprint and help create a more sustainable future. Gaining practical experience with the insulation and heating systems in your house also makes it easier for you to spot and fix any possible inefficiencies or leaks in energy, which cuts down on waste even more.

But it’s crucial to approach do-it-yourself projects cautiously and with respect for safety regulations. To prevent risks like fire hazards or problems with indoor air quality, working with heating systems and insulation materials requires careful planning and adherence to best practices. To make sure that your design complies with building codes and safety standards, think about speaking with experts or getting advice from reliable sources before starting any major modifications.

In conclusion, there are many advantages to planning and executing a heating and insulation system for your house, including better comfort, lower energy costs, and a greater sense of environmental responsibility. Customizing your approach and utilizing do-it-yourself methods will enable you to design a system that fulfills your requirements and aligns with your values. To guarantee that your project is successful, you should, however, always put safety first and consult an expert when needed.