Features of insulation of the basement and cellar from the inside

For your home to remain comfortable and energy-efficient, especially in areas with harsh weather, you must make sure it has enough insulation. The cellar and basement are frequently neglected spaces in your home that stand to gain a great deal from insulation. This post will discuss the essential elements of interior cellar and basement insulation, emphasizing its value and potential to enhance your home’s overall comfort and efficiency.

Due to their susceptibility to moisture, cold drafts, and heat loss, basements and cellars are common places for discomfort and inefficient use of energy. Through internal insulation, homeowners can establish a barrier that prevents air leakage, moisture buildup, and temperature swings. This contributes to the overall energy performance of the entire house in addition to making the basement or cellar more livable.

Heat preservation is one of the main advantages of insulating the cellar and basement from the inside. Heat can easily escape through the walls and floors of uninsulated basements and cellars, increasing energy costs and lowering comfort levels. Insulation lowers energy costs by forming a thermal barrier that helps keep heat inside living areas, eliminating the need for continuous heating.

Insulation helps control moisture levels in the cellar and basement in addition to maintaining heat. These spaces are prone to moisture and humidity, which over time can cause structural damage, the growth of mold, and musty odors. A drier and healthier atmosphere is produced by using insulation made of moisture-resistant materials, which helps stop moisture from entering the walls and causing these problems.

Additionally, insulating your home’s cellar and basement from the inside can strengthen its overall structural integrity. By stabilizing interior temperatures, proper insulation lessens the expansion and contraction of building materials brought on by temperature changes. This can reduce the likelihood of gaps, cracks, and other structural damage, extending the life of your house and potentially saving you money on future repairs.

1 Why insulate

In the past, people only thought of the basement as a utility room. Most of the time, it was just made into a warehouse and filled with food, tools, and other random, frequently unnecessary items.

But these days, people are more realistic and understand that the basement is just an extra space that isn’t needed at all.

You can set up anything in here if you’d like, including a full-fledged living room, a workshop, a gym, a bathhouse, and a place to unwind. But in this instance, it becomes clear that favorable conditions inside need to be created.

One feels damp and cold the moment they walk into an insulated basement with insulation of a well of concrete rings. Naturally, under these circumstances, it is not a bedroom, and the workshop will not function. Both moisture and cold can be uncomfortable for the person, and they can quickly damage furnishings and finishing materials. Prolonged exposure to high humidity levels can also be harmful to the body.

Their appearance is a result of their continual exposure to outside temperatures and moisture. Moisture – found in the ground around the basement walls. It enters through precipitation and groundwater, ensuring that walls are nearly always in contact with liquid.

As a result, a cool, damp atmosphere is produced inside, which is ideal for the growth and appearance of mold and fungus.

Mineral wool insulation of the interior walls of the basement

Such a course of events is not only repulsive and dangerous to an individual, but it also has a negative impact on the design. First of all, moisture quickens the wall’s decomposition; during the winter, its freezing and thawing causes cracks to progressively widen.

1.1 insulate from the outside or inside?

The most efficient way to solve the problem is to insulate the basement’s exterior walls. It should be noted that the same response applies to any other type of building: external thermal insulation is always more effective than internal.

Nevertheless, there are a variety of reasons why using it isn’t always feasible. It is necessary for exterior insulation to have:

• Dry and warm weather;
• Conducting a significant amount of earthwork (you will have to dig a moat around the entire basement to its full depth).

These two points will be sufficient to show how difficult and time-consuming the task of warming the basement outside is. It is not surprising that they typically choose to insulate the basement walls from the inside if they weren’t done during the construction phase.

Even with PSB of 35, this method is less effective on its own. The rationale is that cold and moisture still have an adverse effect on construction when working inside.

The dew point will also shift, and if the insulation is not installed properly, moisture may condense in the form of a "pie" on the insulation. This may result in the need to disassemble the thermal insulation design since moisture may start to seep inside.

Adhering the wall-mounted EPPS sheet

Less open space results from internal basement insulation work, which is another drawback. The heat-insulating "pie" is typically 10 to 15 cm thick, measured from each wall. Here, add the losses from the floor and ceiling’s insulation (about the same amount).

This will cause the room’s volume to drastically drop, something that doesn’t happen when warming the basement outside.

1.2 What to insulate?

The best method is to use basalt cotton wool (which is safe for your health) to warm the structure from all sides. Insulation is equally necessary for the walls, ceiling, and floor surfaces—especially when designing a living room.

We have previously discussed the need to isolate the walls in order to stop moisture and cold from seeping into the space. The floor is necessary for the same reason—since the basement also contains saturated earth.

1.3 insulation of the basement walls with pupa spraying (video)

Internal work

Internal cellar insulation

It’s time to start organizing the floor if the basement is going to be used for more than just storing junk. Frequently, the land is compacted, meaning that extra expenses are not particularly desired during construction. Should this apply to you, you must fill the screed. This calls for:

1. Floor and waterproofing diagram of the basement If the overlap is at an altitude of more than 2 m, you can immediately proceed to the following points. If this size is smaller, then you have to make a recess of soil. It is necessary to delve into 10 cm: 5 cm – sand, 5 cm (minimum) – concrete. If desired, it should even more increase the ceiling height should be deepened.
2. The sand is well crushed. It is undesirable to shed it with water so that there is no excess moisture.
3. The next step will be the laying of waterproofing. For these purposes, it is possible to successfully use roofing ground or bikrost. Insulating material is laid on at least 10 cm.
4. Next, lighthouses are exhibited. The distance between them should be such that it is convenient to work as a rule or vibration. To withstand them in one plane, marks are made on the walls that will be an indicator of the final level of the floor. For this, a laser level or water level is used. With the help of the first, the line on all directions is projected and notes are made, for example, using a chocline. With a water level, you will have to tinker a little and apply at least 2 points to each wall, between which you can pull a cord with coloring powder.
5. The floor screed A crate is laid from the rods of the reinforcement. It is necessary for the whole space to be one monolithic plate. This will give greater stiffness and strength during shrinkage.
6. Focusing on marking, lightaks are exhibited using the usual construction level. For them, you can use reinforcement rods, profile, pipe trimming, etc.D. In order to fit their plane, small columns from the solution are laid out.
7. For a while, you need to leave the structure so that it dries.
8. A damper tape is laid around the perimeter, which will serve as a compensation seam during temperature fluctuations.
9. All space is poured with solution and aligned with appropriate tools. Later, the beacons can be dismantled and the resulting cavities can be filled with the same solution.
10. It is good to all these actions if the ventilation is already mounted. This will contribute to a faster set of strength and removal of excess moisture.

Lining the basement floor with tile

If there is a chance, you can set up a heated floor if you want to convert a basement into a workshop where you intend to spend a lot of time. If it’s electric, it can be installed on the finished screed underneath the tile. When it comes to water, the amount will need to be raised despite the size of the finish screed and insulation.

The basement floor is warm.

Insulation will be the next step.

In order to preserve the coating, it must be completed prior to interior wall decoration. The following steps will be taken in order:

• The entire surface is well cleaned, all exfoliated parts are lost.
• Slots and cracks are sealed using prepared glue or solution.
• As a material for insulation, you can choose a foamyplex, mineral wool or polystyrene.

The polymer heat insulator will be installed in the same order as the outer walls. The final steps involve applying plaster or paint, pulling the plane with glue, and strengthening the entire structure with a reinforcing mesh.

Plan for wall insulation

Making a crate is advised for mineral wool. A 50 × 30 mm beam is utilized for these objectives. It is attached in steps of 40–60 cm; the exact amount depends on how wide the insulation sheet is. The resulting spaces are filled with mattresses, which are affixed to the ceiling with umbrellas. The installation of a wooden lining or trimmed board will constitute the finishing. If the basement is not intended to be used continuously, it cannot be completed.

Roll polystyrene foam can be used as a glue for the interior walls. This will eliminate the sensation of being cold to the touch. Installing a substantial layer of insulation outside makes no sense. Another concern is the possibility of mold growth as a result of moisture buildup between the wall and the thick foam. In the event that the entrance is made from the street, installation is also crucial. By doing this, the entry of cold air that causes heat to weather will be prevented.

A cellar that is isolated from the house can also be insulated in a similar manner. This will guarantee that food reserves remain safe during the harshest frosts. In the article’s comments, please describe the methods you personally used.

Why is it necessary

The temperature below the surface is always lower than that of the exterior, and with adequate thermal insulation, this difference is maintained at a constant level during the construction of basements or cellars. Insulation is a must since it enables you to avoid issues like:

• The soil swelling. If such a course of events is allowed, then the whole foundation of the house can be spoiled and large funds will be required to restore.
• Large heat loss. Fuel costs aimed at warming the floor and basement can be 20% of the total amount. Simple calculations will show the saved amount.
• Health issue. From childhood, parents teach children that the legs should be warm. According to the accepted standards, the floor temperature should be no more than 3 ° C lower than the ambient temperature. This is the perfect indicator. But if the dispersion reaches a much greater meaning, then you can be sure that the consequences will be frequent colds in the autumn and winter periods of time.
• Communications. Often in under the house they try to place the main main pipes of water supply and heating. If you do not take care of maintaining a constant positive air temperature, then this can lead to damage to all systems and their failure.
• Increasingly, basements and attics are used for residential needs. In the second case, they build, for example, . In the first – workshops, pools, laundries, etc.D. This implies a constant or frequent stay in them of people. For the performance of equipment and comfortable stay, high -quality insulation is required.
• Humidity. Condensate can form from the difference in temperature inside and out. And this applies not only to winter time. If the basement during the winter is very frozen, then with warming the appearance of condensate is inevitable. The consequence of this will be the growth of mold and pathogenic fungi. Over time, this will lead to the penetration of the dispute into housing, damage to the flooring and other interior elements. Moisture can seep out of soil through concrete walls. This nuance is also solved at the stage of insulation.
• The safety of food. Pickles and other conservation is usually stored in the basements. Too cold air will lead to freezing and spoilage.

Basement pool

2 requirements for insulation

The most important requirement for thermal insulation material is total resistance to moisture because of the harsh conditions—increasing humidity—especially if the attic is insulated with polyurethane foam.

It is strongly advised against using an insulator in the basement if it is unable to withstand contact with liquids.

First and foremost among them is mineral wool. This insulation’s propensity to retain fluid makes it unsuitable in this context. He clicks, gets watery, and puts on weight at the same time. Consequently, the material’s insulating qualities are significantly diminished, and moisture starts to seep into the space.

The best course of action to prevent this is not to use inexpensive mineral wool products as a basement heater.

Better, more rigid plates (like those made by Rockwool, Isover, Technonikol, and Knauf, for example) are an option, and waterproofing should be carefully considered.

Only if the insulation was installed externally can you use mineral wool without worrying about moisture seeping inside; in this scenario, the likelihood of moisture penetration is greatly decreased.

Expanded clay is the least expensive and most cost-effective option for the floor. Embankment granular material is incredibly user-friendly. Use both between the lags and under the screed; both are pertinent. Its major disadvantage is that it is also prone to moisture accumulation. However, expanded clay has no adverse properties of its own; it won’t deteriorate.

Foam is a universal solution and the "golden middle" between price and quality. This material is very easy to work with and isn’t overly "afraid" of moisture.

Polystyrene does not require any specialized knowledge, expertise, tools, or equipment for cellar insulation; the technology is straightforward and easy to grasp. It works on any surface, from the ceiling to the floor.

Its "senior" analogue, EPS, is more contemporary and effective. Extruded polystyrene foam insulation gradually replaces the insulation with the foam. In actuality, EPPS is a modified foam that is simpler to use, denser, and completely resistant to moisture (although it is preferable to avoid allowing moisture to come into contact with polystyrene).

Given that the cost difference won’t be that great, it is preferable to select it if you need to get a better outcome.

The best course of action is to spray PPUs (they also insulate the blind area surrounding the house). When liquid polyurethane foam is applied to a surface, it creates a solid, monolithic layer that can be used on the walls, ceiling, or floor. Not like when using the previously mentioned foam, EPS, and mineral wool—no joints and seams.

2.1 example of insulation of the ceiling of the basement with a foam (video)

2.2 stages of work

First, we will look at how expanded clay and polyurethane foam are combined to create a screed for floor insulation. The following are the stages of work:

1. The floor surface is completely clear from the old finishing materials (if available) to the “bare” soil (or to the plate).
2. Sprinking of sand or clay is performed on top.
3. Several layers of a dense plastic film – a waterproofer are laid on top of the spray. The film should go to the walls at least 10 cm.
4. Expanded clay spils over the film. The layer is determined by the desired effectiveness (the tangible effect will be noticeable with a layer of 10 cm approximately).
5. The first layer of screed is performed on top of expanded clay, about 5 cm thick. The screed is equal to the pre -exhibited lighthouses.
6. A reinforcing mesh made of metal is recessed into the screed.
7. A sheet of EPPS, 5-10 cm thick, is half fed on top.
8. The second level of screed is poured over sheets of EPS (another 5-10 cm).
9. The second layer is also reinforced with a grid.

The same scheme is used to isolate the ceiling and walls. We’ll talk about technology using the example of EPS application:

1. The surface is previously cleaned and aligned – a sheet of material will simply not fall evenly if there are significant height changes or protrusions.
2. The surface is primed several times.
3. On top of the primer, if desired, you can apply a layer of moisture resistant plaster.
4. Sheets of foam are glued to the surface – moving from the bottom from the corner, laying each next row with a shift to the side.
5. Sheets can be additionally fixed with dowels.
6. At the junctions between segments, construction tape is glued.
7. Surgery is placed on top of the foam and further finishing.

External insulation technology

In my opinion, it is evident whether or not to insulate the cellar on the street. Read the following section where I attempt to explain how to perform external insulation and defend my own opinion if you’re still unsure.

The advantages of the method

Personally, I think that if the cellar can be insulated outside, there is no need to insulate it inside. In actuality, the waterproofing layer and the structure itself are shielded from low temperatures and mechanical stresses by the outer layer of insulation.

It is preferable to insulate the cellar from the outside with thermal barriers.

• In the cellar, a microclimate ideal for storing vegetables and fruits is formed;
• The very surface of the walls in the room will be warm, that is, the potato near them will not freeze;
• Moisture will not condenses on the walls;
• The size of the cellar will not change (although in aunt, it is so spacious that you can stock up with foods and survive a considerable cataclysm);
• Proper external insulation excludes the formation of cold bridges.

As a result, if it is feasible, install the insulation outside. But first, make sure all surfaces are thoroughly waterproofed. I’ll tell you what and how now.

Waterproofing surfaces

This work is unique in that the treated surfaces will be underground when the waterproofing procedures are finished, making moisture a major factor.

Eating and coating materials can be used to waterproof walls.

In this instance, I used the directed watering materials for waterproofing. This is a contemporary roofing material, and exposure to high temperatures activates the adhesive layer. I burned with gas.

Use membranes that have an adhesive layer if you are not experienced working with heated materials. You could even paint the exterior walls of the cellar with bitumen mastic.

Installation of thermal insulation

I used unique heat-insulating plates made of extruded polystyrene as thermal insulation. They are strong enough to resist the mechanical effect of the soil during cellar backfilling and have a low coefficient of heat conductivity.

Starting from the bottom of the wall, plates are arranged.

Mastic is used to lay the slabs on top of the waterproofing layer. After applying it to the stove’s surface, the material is pressed against it until the glue is grasped (this process typically takes 40 seconds, but it also depends on the air temperature).

Penopolex is adhered to waterproofing directly.

Place the slabs gradually upward, beginning at the ground and working your way up the cellar walls. The final row should be positioned so that it rises 30 to 40 cm above the soil following reverse backfill.

Thermal insulation should rise above ground level following backfilling.

Ensuring that thermal insulation slabs are closely spaced from one another is crucial. Construction foam needs to be inserted into any gaps and cracks.

Additionally, backfill the soil gently. Verify that there are no large rocks or lumps of land on Earth that could harm the isolation. After the slab is installed, finishing is not necessary. So I made the decision to use them.

It was worth the effort to get the award for the work done (in the photo).

Naturally, it is preferable to take all the above-mentioned steps during construction to minimize the amount of work involved; however, if you haven’t been concerned about it in advance, proceed in accordance with the above plan.

The need and features of the basement insulation

Homeowners in areas where there are frequent, severe frosts should consider adding more thermal insulation to the subterranean space because:

• A significant part of the heat (up to 25%) goes through the basement, which significantly increases expenses during the heating season.
• The underground room without heating has an increased level of humidity, which has a negative effect on the housing microclimate – the air in the house gives dampness, and the probability of mold and fungus increases several times.
• In a spacious basement, if it is insulated, you can organize not only a pantry, but also a workshop, as well as a hall for leisure or sports.
• In the structure where work on additional thermal insulation was carried out, the foundation and supporting structures are less susceptible to destruction associated with temperature drops and high humidity.

There are two ways you can do the required work: outside and inside the subterranean chamber. The first technique involves sheathing the structure’s exterior surfaces with unique heat-insulating materials to keep the walls from freezing.

The exterior basement insulation

This is a better option because condensation frequently forms in the docking places of insulating material and walls when there is internal insulation.

It is essential to work on the basement’s waterproofing in order to prevent this.

Ideally, they are completed concurrently with the drainage system arrangement during the house-building phase.

However, the delayed decision regarding internal insulation won’t prevent waterproofing.

The time and money needed for the required work should be set aside in light of the benefits the householder will experience and the significance of the additional thermal basement.

External insulation of the bulk cellar

The implementation, which takes the most time, calls for carrying out several tasks, including:

• The soil surrounding the roof and walls of the cellar is removed. Note. It is sometimes possible to perform the excavation of soil. For example, when the cellar is smuggled in the ground, and the resulting slopes are trimmed with brick. Such walls can collapse. In this case, users advise to remove soil at a distance of 100-150 mm. from the wall, and then gradually remove the rest. Additional protection against moisture will be given the arrangement of crushed stone-sand pillow at a depth of 200-300 mm. From the base of the wall.

• Plates of hard insulation are mounted or polyurethane foam are applied;

• all defects are eliminated from the surface of the walls;

• For further work, it is necessary that the roof and walls are absolutely dry. Therefore, work stops until the walls are completely dry. As you can see, it is better to do work in a warm dry season;

• Roof insulation is, in fact, the overlap of the cellar with insulation. The technology involves laying the roofing material on top of the ceiling, filling the roof on top with a clay-salt mixture. The height of the wire on the roof is 0.4-0.5 m. The mixture is thoroughly tamped and covered with a dense film. The edges of the film are wrapped on a wall with an overlap of 150-200 mm.

• Wall waterproofing is performed. Primer processing in this case will help little. It is better to use a solution of bitumen with diesel fuel (1: 3), mastic, roofing material or special film;

• The joints between the sheets are blown by mounting foam; Some masters advise delaying the insulation with a polymer mesh to ensure the integrity of the sheet. Rooferoid will more successfully cope with this task. But often the distance between the wall and the soil is simply covered with expanded clay, a high clay content or a mixture of soil, sawdust/straw and clay. In the absence of ventilation in the cellar, it will advisely take care of it at this stage.

• The resulting hill is covered with a layer of fertile soil with a height of 100-150 mm. With the subsequent landing of herbaceous plants that protect the cellar from sunlight, and strengthen the soil with their roots.

Cellar insulation from the inside

Insulation from the interior of the basement walls

Step-by-step guidelines in the form of suggestions and regulations.

It is advisable to install thermal insulation material on the walls, ceiling, and floor of the room. Insulating the basement’s heating pipes is essential if the space is intended to remain unheated (cold). This will prevent the coolant’s temperature from dropping as you move through the basement.

Make sure the basement is fully ventilated before adding thermal insulation. The simplest method of setting up air exchange is to drill two holes in the basement’s opposing walls.

A vent hole located in the basement wall

Insulation of the walls of the basement from the inside

The process of work is pretty much the same as for external insulation:

• The polymer mesh is attached;
• waterproofing. In order for the primer to dry, it is necessary to provide ventilation in the basement;
• Check the walls for the presence of deformations, irregularities (which cannot be level with adhesive mixture), protruding parts;
• The heat insulator is mounted;
• plaster is applied for internal work.

When utilizing a different finishing material, the necessary prep work is done; for instance, gypsum plasters are applied to the frame.

Cold ceiling insulation basement

Any basement insulation technique must include heat insulation in the ceiling. You can lessen the temperature differential between the air and floor of a room by adding thermal insulation to the basement ceiling. The type of ceiling that is installed between the first floor and the basement determines the work procedure.

Regarding wooden floors:

• Poli -polystyrene foam (polystyrene or foam) is mounted;
• inspection of the ceiling is carried out;
• Penophol is installed – a foil film that will reflect heat into the room;
• Finishing work is performed.

Ways to Insulate the Ceiling of the Basement

In order to minimize heat loss through the concrete, a false flow arrangement is necessary for ceilings made of reinforced concrete. The suspended ceiling, which implies a decorative decoration, is a ceiling structure featuring a substantial layer of heat-insulating material.

Insulation of the basement floor

The primary goal of the floor’s thermal insulation is to prevent heat from escaping the basement and entering the ground. even though we’re discussing a cold basement. You should consider the following two options more carefully when deciding how to insulate the basement floor:

Option 1. Floor insulation with expanded clay or "floor on soil"

Plan for soil-based floor insulation in the basement

After expanding and smoothing out on the floor, a layer of thin concrete is filled in and a metal mesh is placed on top of it. In order to prevent expanded clay from shifting during transportation, a treated timber frame is constructed with cells filled with expanded clay gravel or, if a thin layer is used, marked with metal beacons. The rule is aligned with the frowned expanded clay. Following that, the floor screed and waterproofing are completed.

Option 2. Warming the floor with polystyrene foam

In this instance, the basement floor is leveled, hard polystyrene foam slabs are placed on it, and waterproofing—such as roofing material—is applied to the plates so that the panel’s edges extend 150 mm to the wall. The next step is to pour a 30–50 mm thick concrete screed, which is advised to reinforce and prevent deformations of the pie that blocks heat.

Door insulation in the basement

The final step will stop cold air from entering the house through the door from the unheated basement into the ground floor rooms.

Conclusion

Therefore, adding sophisticated insulation to a private home’s basement will increase its usable area, cut down on heat loss, and lower heating expenses.

Keywords: Basement

We warm the cellar with our own hands from freezing

Owners of private homes, plots, and cottages can outfit their own building to store different food supplies, harvest, and make blanks. It’s important to set up the basement properly to create the ideal microclimate. Ultimately, the crop will always stay intact thanks to the insulated cellar, no matter the season.

Note: The type of basement—ground, buried, or underground—should be considered when choosing how to insulate it. Since heat insulation can be done both inside and outside of this structure, ground insulation is therefore the most straightforward. In addition to thermal insulation, the subterranean storage requires surface waterproofing. Lastly, from an operational standpoint, the most beneficial is a bulk (underground) that maintains a constant plus temperature all year round.

The designs of vaults are the same for the roof, floor, and ceiling despite the wide range of varieties. As a result, all of the surfaces mentioned above are insulated when performing thermal insulation work, taking into consideration the features of this type (Figure 1).

Image 1. The three primary categories of cellars are subterranean, ground, and semi-pound, in order of left to right.

For instance, the walls and roof’s thermal insulation is the primary concern when warming the ground storage, and foam or polystyrene foam is used for exterior work. Because there is a chance that the underground storage will flood, waterproofing must be done before thermal insulation.

The insulation of the subterranean cellar takes the longest because it requires partially removing the soil from the walls and roof and then adding another layer of moisture protection.

Waterproofing surfaces: walls, roof or doors

You should be aware that the requirements for the waterproofing of a cellar increase with its depth (Figure 2). You can do it at a minimal cost if you make the right decisions during the building phase. On the other hand, fixing the wet room is far more challenging. As a result, before beginning construction, pay attention to the groundwater table and the soil’s freezing depth during the winter.

Note: It will be sufficient to create a concrete floor, plaster the walls, and apply a white coat of paint due to the low groundwater level. Rooftop ground can be used to provide waterproofing. If subterranean water seeps near the soil’s surface, you will need to plaster the walls both inside and out. You will need to use a three- to four-layer rubber roofing material on red brick walls. A 20-centimeter layer of rumpled oily clay is applied to the brick wall for added protection. In case the basement is situated on sandy ground, it is recommended to apply two coats of bitumen mastics to its cement walls and then promptly fill it with sand that has coarse grains.

Prior to performing thermal insulation work enhanced by additional waterproofing, wheel structures. This is due to the possibility of soil water flooding since the walls of these storage facilities are partially subterranean. Therefore, it is required to remove the underground portion of the walls from the earth, apply a waterproofing solution, or cover them with roofing material in order to completely eliminate the possibility of flooding.

Figure 2: The cellar’s waterproofing phases

After that, the PPU or hard insulation is stacked, covered with soil, and rewrapped with roofing material. Furthermore, the drainage system’s configuration is advised to reduce the impact of moisture on the repository.

The video contains additional information regarding waterproofing the basement.

Methods of cellars from the inside

There are some specific times when heating basements from the inside, in addition to the general guidelines for installing the chosen kind of insulation.

The basement wall insulation process needs to be completed during the warm season with dry walls.

The room must be completely dried out if there is condensate on the walls. If you don’t, all you can do is make things worse and hasten the building’s foundation’s destruction.

Insulation of the walls of the basement from the inside

When setting up the basement’s thermal insulation, this is the most crucial and time-consuming procedure. It is 90% dependent on the microclimate of the future. Several general features are present here:

• It is advisable to use a polymer type that is not inclined to get wet and does not let water vapor.
• The surface of the walls before installing the insulation must be leveled as best as possible, removing the old plaster.
• Any insulation must be laid so that there are no gaps between it and the wall.
• Before insulation of the walls of the basement, it is necessary to calculate the thickness and vapor permeability of the future thermal insulation layer, according to the calculation of the “Features of the calculation of the thickness of the insulation for walls and roof” or SNiP 23-02-2003 ”Thermal protection of buildings".

The desired outcome for warming the basement can only be attained if all of the aforementioned conditions are met.

Ceiling insulation in the basement

The importance of ceiling and wall insulation is equal. The only difference in this technology is that instead of warming the basement ceiling, we warm the ground floor.

The dew point in a living room is on the upper surface of the floor slabs because the room is always warmer above than below.

Options for basement ceiling insulation include:

• Penetrast insulation and other polymeric materials. It is used if the ceilings are made of concrete. The thickness of the insulation is usually 5 cm. It is performed in a similar to the insulation of the walls, the scheme. First, a thick layer of waterproofing is applied, then sheets of the heat -insulating material are attached to the glue or dowel, the reinforcing mesh is pulled next, the glue is applied. After drying, it is plastered. If the plaster is not planned, you must first attach wooden lags to the ceiling, the skin will be attached to them after. In this case, under the sheathing, it is necessary to lay a layer of vapor barrier material.
• Mineral wool. It is used if the ceiling (gender of the first floor) is made of wooden structures. A waterproofing film is attached to the wooden base from below. Wooden bars are nailed, for external sheathing. Mineral wool layers are laid between bars and fixed with dowels with fungi. A vapor barrier membrane is laid on cotton wool, and then the elements of the skin are attached.

Floor insulation in the basement

In most cases, the basement floor runs directly parallel to the ground. The most popular method for installing floor insulation on soil is to use bulk insulation materials. Using polymer sheet materials for insulation is the second method.

• Floor insulation with expanded clay. To do this, separate the soil from the insulation using waterproofing. It can be a thick plastic film or roofing material. A layer of expanded clay is evenly poured from above, at least 15 cm and spilled with cement milk. The reinforcing mesh is laid directly on the expanded clay and the entire space is poured with a cement solution with a thickness of at least 5 cm.
• When warming with polystyrene,or polystyrene foam The following is performed. A sand pillow is poured on the ground, 5 cm thick, which is well tamped. A waterproofing membrane with a margin on the walls is spread over it on top of it. Sheets of insulation are tightly laid on it. A layer of waterproofing again and completes the “pie” reinforced concrete screed with a thickness of at least 5 cm.

Warming work procedure

Slab insulations are typically used for exterior wall insulation and are readily installed. Plates are adhered to the waterproofing layer using mastics or adhesive mixtures. By using mastic to process the entire surface of the insulation slab, the chance of the insulation shifting due to soil movement is decreased.

Insulation should be done as soon as possible while the house is being built.

The plate needs to have cold mastic applied to its surface before it can be pressed against the wall and held there for the glue’s composition to freeze, which takes about 30 to 40 seconds.

The heat-insulating plate layout should start below and work its way strictly around the perimeter, with the slabs being 30 to 40 cm above the floor.

The insulation plates must all have the same thickness. Furthermore, they must adhere to each other’s strict adjustments.

It is advised to locate any created voids right away using construction foam. The soil layer will be steadily supported by the plates in the future. What matters most is that they remain together and do not separate.

As was already mentioned, the basement walls should be insulated while the building is still under construction. It is preferable to isolate the basement from the outside only if, for some reason, this was not done. In a built-home, external insulation is a task best left to experts. It is not advised to perform such work on your own without the necessary expertise because there is a significant chance that you could damage the building’s walls and foundation.

Technology

Choose materials

Initially, we must choose a method for internally heating the basement. The materials must be both usable and have a sufficient resistance to heat transfer.

They are still in use today for the following purposes:

• Ceramzit. Used for filling the floor. Does not solve the problem with condensation, but it reduces heat loss quite well. Another plus is an acceptable price.
• Extruded polystyrene foam of high density. The most suitable material for internal thermal insulation. It resists deformations (can be laid even under the floor covering), does not rot, does not delay over time. The main advantage is good waterproofing properties.

• Styrofoam. Cheaper than polystyrene foam, but much worse for its operational characteristics. It can only be used if the alternative is a complete absence of thermal insulation.

Take note! Additionally, mice and rats gnaw on the foam, with all the inevitable (or better yet, sprinkled) consequences. Work involving waterproofing

Waterproofing work

Waterproofing measures are inevitably included in the insulation instructions:

• For processing concrete surfaces, the best solution is penetrating compositions. Of course, it is best to apply them to fresh concrete, but on the already used surface they show a decent result.

Photo being processed to apply a sharp composition

• The penetrating composition is applied to the floor, walls and ceiling using a spray. The average solution of the solution is about 0.5 -0.7 kg/m2.
• After polymerization of the penetrating layer, you can apply a polymer -cement mixture. It is perfect for the insulated basement, because it does not tolerate strong temperature differences.

Once the waterproofing process is complete, you can begin using your hands to warm the floor.

We warm the floor

There are two methods for insulating the lower portion of the basement:

• On the floor we form a frame of lag and skull bars, aligning it on the plane. All wooden details must be saturated with a moisture protection composition.
• Honey with lags we fall asleep expanded clay with a layer of at least 20-30 cm.
• On top of expanded clay we lay a vapor barrier membrane.
• We lay the floor boards, fixing them to the lags using nails.

Ceramzite in the interim

In the second technique, polystyrene foam is used:

• On a concrete floor protected from moisture, glue polystyrene slabs. Cold mastic is used for gluing.
• We lay the crate on top of the plates, on which we mount the floorboard.
• To ensure better protection against condensate, a vapor barrier can also be laid here here.

Walls and ceiling

Once the floor is finished, move on to the ceiling and walls:

• We glue all the surfaces with polystyrene foam, trying not to leave cracks and gaps.

Counseling! We adhere a thicker layer of insulation to the subterranean room’s ceiling if the first floor is insulated from the basement.

• We fill all the voids with self -expanding polyurethane foam from the cylinder.
• On the heat -insulator slabs we glue the plaster mesh, after which we align the walls and ceiling.
• On top of the polystyrene foam, we glue the vapor barrier material. It is necessary to lay it over, with an overlap of the edge of at least 10 cm.
• As an alternative, you can use foamyizol – foil polymer film.
• Instead of plaster, you can make the room with a moisture -resistant drywall or asbestos -cement slabs. The lining panels can be fixed both on glue and on the pre -installed frame.

All of these things inevitably cause the basement microclimate to drastically alter.

In order to make up for them, proper ventilation must be made sure of. It can occur naturally or be imposed.

Attaching ceiling panels with glue

How the waterproofing and ventilation of the basement works

Any insulation will quickly become inappropriate if the cellar is not properly ventilated and waterproofed. Building a blind area to shield the cellar from talus, snow, or rain seeps through is a necessary component of any foundation.

A network of drainage channels forms extra protection around the foundation. You can also install a drainage ditch.

• The ditch is dug up outside the house, the depth of which is 30 centimeters below the floor in the cellar.
• Geokan is laid.
• Crushed stone is poured.
• The drainage pipe is placed.
• Everything is closed with geotextiles on top.
• Covered with soil or sand.
• Carefully compacted.

When there is a lot of groundwater, these techniques are used in addition. However, there are several steps that need to be taken exactly as written.

Among them are:

• Processing its walls from the inside and outside the waterproofing composition.
• The device of special containers – caissons for the cellar, which are metal sheets or plastic.

Vegetables cannot be kept for a long time in storage—even if the tasks on the list are done correctly. The creation inside the condensate makes it impossible to keep its ideal microclimate stable.

Installing the room ventilation system in the simplest way is:

• Installation of two channels that allow for supply and exhaust ventilation. For this, PVC pipes with a diameter of 10 to 50 mm are used. Air temperature difference in the basement and coming outside create the correct functioning of the system.
• Installation of decorations in the foundation.

The cellar’s ventilation device diagram

Why insulate the basement

Any building’s premises, regardless of its intended use, should be dry and warm. Moisture and significant temperature swings are most common in the basement, which makes it easier for a bad microclimate to enter residential buildings and beneath houses:

• The floor will become cold.
• On its surface and on the walls will become

When such issues arise, they result in:

• To damage to the repair.
• To accelerated destruction of the structure.
• Worsens the health of people living in the house.

Materials for insulation of the cellar

Though there is a wide range of thermal insulation materials available, keep in mind that not all of them will work for them. A cellar’s insulation material should be able to maintain its geometry, withstand soil and water pressure, have a high insulating value (table), and be completely hygroscopic.

Mineral wool, also known as ecowata, provides inadequate insulation for the reasons mentioned above.

The following sequence will show up if you arrange the materials in descending order:

• insulation of the cellar with foam. The most popular insulation. After all, in addition to thermal insulation characteristics, the foam is distinguished by a low price and ease of installation. The foam does not rot, does not hygroscopic, biological inert, has low weight, does not require the use of vapor barrier films and arrangement of the crate. Mounted both outside and from the inside of the room;

• insulation of the cellar with sawdust or peat soil, which are well held warm and unattractive for rodents;

• insulation of the cellar with polyurethane foam. PPU belongs to sprayed heaters. Possessing all the properties of his predecessors, he is distinguished by non -combustibility and the ability to fill the entire space (cracks, cracks). PPU creates a shell, which is the most reliable way to warm the cellar both outside and from the inside. At the same time, the cost of polyurethane foam is high, and special equipment and the attracting of specialists are required for application;

• insulation of the cellar with polystyrene foam. Polystyrene foam has all the characteristics of the foam. It is distinguished only by a higher price, which is due to the greater density of the material, the integrity of the structure of the sheet (the ability not to crumble during installation), the presence of a groove-grown installation system;

• insulation of the cellar with expanded clay. Expanded clay, like any other bulk material, is distinguished by a limited area of application. As a rule, it is used to warm the floor. It can also be used for walls for external insulation of an underground (wiped) cellar.

• insulation of the cellar with a blacksmith. Used for external insulation. In this case, the earth is poured onto the roof of the cellar. However, with a modern level of technology development, there are many more effective methods of insulation while maintaining the absolute environmental cleanliness of the site.

Cesson insulation for the cellar

Because of their ideal shapes and resistance to mechanical damage, insulation of a concrete cellar or brick is not difficult (brick, concrete walls can be drilled by fixing a dowel-zontic or treated with hot mastic to ensure waterproofing).

Cesson cellar insulation

However, things are a little different now that cellars are modern. The tightness of the tank may be harmed by thermal insulation measures.

However, because heat and cold can easily pass through the walls, their insulation is also crucial. The caisson does not require waterproofing because it is a complete structure.

The caissons for the cellar can be (types) depending on the material used.

1. plastic (from polymeric materials);
2. reinforced concrete (made of concrete rings);
3. Metal (steel).

It should be remembered that each material has a unique heat loss indicator.

In addition, a cellar cesson’s shape—which influences the selection of a heat insulator—may be cube- or cylinder-shaped. Using bulk, hard, and sprayed insulation, you can insulate the cellar’s cesson. Examine how they are used in the following decreasing order of popularity:

• Hard insulation. Used in cases where the caisson has the shape of a cube, square, a rectangle with even walls. The insulation is glued to the surface of the caisson. Cesson is placed in the ground, the distance between it and the soil is falling asleep;

• Castle insulation: soil, expanded clay, sand, peat soil. In this case, the caisson is placed in the ground, and the distance between its walls and soil is poured;

• sprayed insulation – polyurethane foam. Provide the most effective thermal insulation. But the lack of PPU isolation at a high price and the need to attract masters with special equipment.

Both the plastic and metal cellars can be adequately insulated using the types of thermal insulation materials that have been specified. The construction industry now offers a plastic cellar with insulation; this saves labor-intensive work by requiring only proper installation techniques.

Conclusion

Regardless of how cold or hot it gets "overboard," the winter workpieces will be safe and preserved in an insulated cellar in the country or in a private home’s courtyard.

Labels: Cellar

Insulation of the cellar from the inside

This location is the primary distinction between the cellar and the basement. Because the cellar is typically situated close to the main building, it lacks double warm overlap protection from the outside elements.

When heating the cellar from the inside, this fact needs to be considered. The ceiling must provide more complete insulation from the winter cold and the summer heat if the insulation of the walls, floor, and basement is the same.

It is recommended to use stoves made of foam, polystyrene foam, or foam for the purpose of insulating the cellar ceiling. Thermal insulation should be at least 20 centimeters thick overall.

The insulation procedure It looks like this:

• Crossing with waterproofing material of the floor slabs.
• Gluing on glue of 2 layers of insulation in the cross-cutting method with the help of mounting foam. The thickness of each layer of insulation is at least 10 cm.
• Gluing the surface of the insulation with glue using a reinforcing mesh.

You can think about this if sheathing the resulting "pie" is not intended. If the ceiling is concealed by the sheet material finish, a vapor barrier layer must be added between the insulation and the casing.

You can perform heat-insulating work from the inside if it is not possible to insulate the basement externally. Such insulation will be equivalent to the external with skillful selection and material installation.

When doing any work, keep in mind that the basement is an extremely hostile space, and use high-quality supplies as a result. By using insulation technology, you can get a good outcome that will add a lot of extra space and make the house warm and comfortable.

How to build a cellar and a dry basement by hand View the video:

The energy efficiency and comfort of your home can be greatly improved by insulating your cellar and basement from the inside. You can build a barrier against heat loss, moisture intrusion, and even possible structural damage by appropriately insulating these regions. Selecting the appropriate insulation material for your needs and budget is essential. To stop mold and decay, it’s also essential to take care of any moisture problems that may already exist. For the insulation to work as well as possible, it must be installed correctly, leaving no gaps or weak spots. In the end, insulating your cellar and basement from the inside improves the thermal performance of your house and creates a more sustainable and healthful living space.

The use of vapor barrier when warming the basement

It is used without a perforation when warming the basement. It is placed without an air gap directly on top of the insulation. There is no difference as to which side to place a double-sided film on. Occasionally, a distinct coating on the film occurs, such as anti-condensate. Such a film must be installed in the basement with the fabric side facing downward.

If there is a metal coating on the film, it should come from the inside as well. The external and incorrect side is always indicated in the instructions by vapor barrier film manufacturers. By adhering to the manufacturer’s recommended laying order, you can be certain that the water vapor will not breach the heat-insulating layer.

Important: pulling the vapor barrier film with force is not permitted. She is welcome to sprawl out on the insulation.

Features of the drainage system

There are various drainage techniques that can be used to remove water from a detached structure’s foundation:

• Ring drainage of the foundation. It is used to prevent the flooding of the basement of the buildings of the buildings of separate and constructed on sand soil. Water freely penetrates through such a soil, and the foundation can save the device of ring drainage. At the same time, it should be taken into account:

1. The structure consists of a ring, its inner part is isolated from water;
2. Upon receipt of fluid, from only one specific side, such drainage can be laid as an open circle;
3. The installation of such a system should be carried out below the floor level, the premises that are subject to protection against moisture;
4. The system is laid at a distance of 5 to 8 meters from the wall.

Advice: If you don’t take care of its removal at a lower distance, the soil of the soil of the soil may occur.

• The drainage is prefabricated. Used to prevent the flooding of the basement and the basement of the building, which is built on clay or loamy soil. It penetrates through such soil it is quite difficult. When choosing this option, drainage instructions suggests taking into account:

1. It is often used to prevent the premises from the penetration of water into it;
2. It is used for a mixed source of soil fluid;
3. lay the device outside from the building. In this case, the distance from the wall of the building to the drainage system should be equal to the width of the foundation, directly.
4. such a system is laid above the level of the sole of the foundation;
5. With a too high foundation depth, drainage can be slightly higher.

• Slade drainage. It is usually used in combination with wall or ring. When choosing such a system, you need to know that:

1. It is advisable to use it on soil of any type, where a large amount of groundwater;
2. It is used for prevention in loamy and clay soil;
3. A special pipe is laid through the entire foundation of the building, to ensure such a system, interaction with external drainage.

Features of the microclimate of the cellar

I think the cellar needs good insulation, regardless of whether it was built separately (like Angela Olegovna) or under a private house. This operation has an impact on the service life in addition to the development of a suitable microclimate within.

A cellar with inadequate insulation will develop mold on its walls.

If specific actions are not taken, the damaging effects of high humidity and large temperature fluctuations will cause the walls to collapse and become unusable very quickly.

However, the most crucial factor is the ideal temperature for the goods. According to my aunt, wet apples can only be produced if the temperature of the air does not rise above 4 degrees Celsius or fall below 2. This is only possible with the cellar properly insulated from the interior as well as the exterior.

The workpieces will rot if the cellar temperature is too high or too low.

In this instance, warm air from the inside will not escape the cellar walls during the chilly winter months.

Another crucial point to which many people seldom give any thought. I have frequently seen circumstances where moisture collects on the walls and ceiling of the cellar.

One of the effects of inadequate insulation—or its total lack—is this.

Not enough steps are being taken to warm up. Building and ventilation are required in order to control the amount of water vapor in the space.

Naturally, I also suggest that you consider waterproofing right away because, in the absence of it, the heat-insulating material will become wet and become less effective, leading to the rapid collapse of the walls.

But let’s go back to our rams. Prior to going over how to insulate the cellar, I want to spend a few lines discussing the issue of material selection.

Insulation Material	Advantages
Foam Board Insulation	Easy to install, provides good thermal resistance
Spray Foam Insulation	Expands to fill gaps, excellent for irregular surfaces
Fiberglass Insulation	Cost-effective, readily available, resists moisture
Reflective Foil Insulation	Reflects heat, effective in hot climates

A vital first step in guaranteeing the general effectiveness and comfort of your house is to insulate the cellar and basement from the inside. You can lower energy costs, stop heat loss, and keep mold and moisture out of your house by properly insulating these areas.

Selecting the appropriate insulation materials is one of the most important aspects of insulating the cellar and basement from the inside. You can choose materials like fiberglass batts, spray foam insulation, or rigid foam boards based on your needs, climate, and budget. To choose the best material for your home, do your homework and speak with experts as each material has pros and cons of its own.

An additional important consideration when insulating the cellar and basement from the inside is proper installation. Ineffective insulation can result from gaps and thermal bridging caused by improper installation. To guarantee a tight and efficient insulation barrier, it’s crucial to carefully follow the manufacturer’s instructions and think about hiring qualified contractors for the work.

It’s crucial to take care of any current moisture problems in addition to insulating the cellar and basement from the inside. Moisture can eventually cause structural damage and mold growth in addition to decreasing the effectiveness of insulation. To stop moisture from leaking into the insulated space, make sure to seal any leaks or cracks in the foundation walls and think about adding a vapor barrier.

All things considered, insulating your home’s cellar and basement from the inside is a wise investment that can increase your home’s longevity, comfort, and energy efficiency. You can provide yourself and your family with a more comfortable and healthful living space by selecting the appropriate insulation materials, making sure the installation is done correctly, and taking care of any moisture problems.

Video on the topic

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