Boiler with your own hands

Few things are more crucial to maintaining the coziness and comfort of our homes than a dependable heating system. Boilers are the central component of many homes’ heating systems, supplying hot water and warmth for everyday use. Although purchasing a boiler from an expert installer is a popular option, some daring homeowners decide to take on the project on their own. Installing a DIY boiler can be a satisfying project that will help you learn more about your home’s heating system and save money.

It’s essential to comprehend the functions and workings of a boiler before taking on DIY boiler installation. In essence, a boiler heats water, which warms the room by circulating it through pipes to radiators or underfloor heating systems. Boilers can also supply hot water for baths, showers, and home appliances like washing machines and dishwashers. Gaining a basic understanding of boiler function will make you more capable of confidently managing the installation process.

The potential financial savings is one of the main benefits of doing your own boiler installation. Expert installation can be costly, frequently involving labor costs and equipment markups. By doing it yourself, you can avoid the middleman and save money overall by buying the boiler and other supplies at retail prices. To make sure you’re ready for the work at hand, it’s crucial to balance these possible savings against the dangers and difficulties of doing the installation yourself.

Careful planning is necessary before starting a do-it-yourself boiler installation project. Start by doing some research on the kind of boiler that will work best for your house, taking into account things like size, fuel type, and efficiency rating. It is imperative that you evaluate your current heating system and infrastructure to ascertain compatibility and identify any required upgrades. Planning thoroughly in advance will facilitate the installation process and reduce the possibility of issues later on.

Contents
  1. Instructions on how to make a water heater with your own hands
  2. Making the tank
  3. Number of heaters
  4. Installation of the automatic water heater
  5. Mounting the water heater
  6. Advantages of homemade heaters
  7. The simplest heat exchanger
  8. The procedure for making a boiler
  9. Step #1 – what and how to make a tank from?
  10. Step #2 – tackle the issue of thermal insulation
  11. Step #3 – making the coil
  12. Stage #4 – assembly and connection of the structure
  13. Connecting the boiler
  14. Announcements of farmers
  15. How to make a homemade boiler water heater for heating water
  16. Advantages and disadvantages of the indirect heating boiler
  17. Making a boiler with your own hands
  18. Tank
  19. coil
  20. Thermal insulation
  21. Mounting
  22. Video: how to make an indirect heating boiler with your own hands
  23. Video: making an indirect heating boiler
  24. Solar water heater
  25. Water heater from polyethylene bottles
  26. 2 Pros and cons of the equipment boiler is good, but far from ideal
  27. The process of creating a water heater
  28. Electrical
  29. Storage boiler tank and boiler itself
  30. With heating from the sun
  31. Necessary tools, materials and principle of work
  32. How to make a heat exchanger?
  33. How to make an absorber for a collector?
  34. How to make a box for a water heater?
  35. How to assemble a solar water heater?
  36. Calculating the volume of the indirect heating boiler and designing the coil
  37. Large volume storage systems
  38. 5 Make a coil and assemble the device will not be a problem
  39. Calculation of basic boiler parameters
  40. Tank volume and shape
  41. Heat exchanger capacity and length
  42. Table: length of copper heat exchanger for boilers with a capacity of 50-200 liters
  43. Variations of water heating equipment
  44. How to install a flow-type water heater
  45. Connecting the flow heater to the water supply system
  46. Connection to electricity
  47. Device and principle of operation
  48. Instructions for assembly and connection with your own hands
  49. Thermal insulation
  50. The principle of operation of a wood-fired boiler
  51. Video on the topic
  52. BARBECUE GRILL FROM AN OLD BOILER WITH YOUR OWN HANDS
  53. Boiler. Heat accumulator. Hot water supply in the house.
  54. Boiler with their own hands. Disadvantages of sold and my ideal.

Instructions on how to make a water heater with your own hands

You must remove any dirt or rust from all metal components before beginning the necessary work. After outlining the holes on the sheet metal where the heating element will be installed, assemble all the components, attaching the pipes and heating element to the sheet metal. The grounding nut can be welded anywhere that’s practical. After the installation is complete, connect it to the water supply and check for leaks everywhere. If leaks are found, they must be welded, the water heater must be taken out and painted with an anti-corrosion paint, allowed to dry, and then the heater must be reinstalled and used.

Crucial! Installing a flow water heater in the bathtub is not advised as it may start a fire. Installing it in the shower cabin after removing the pipes is the best option.

Without access to hot water, it is simply impossible for any modern person to live comfortably; nevertheless, many private homes lack this convenience. The only way to make sure of it is to install a water heater, which is something you can do yourself.

The simplest to make by hand is an indirect heated water heater.

Making your own is the simplest way to create an indirect water heater.

This calls for:

  • Aluminum sheet;
  • Copper manifold;
  • Wooden boards;
  • Copper pipe.

A case made of boards is required; the interior of the case needs to be lined with aluminum. Install the collector, which needs to have inlet and outlet structures on both sides, by cutting grooves in it with a pipe. This kind of system makes it simple to heat any amount of water.

Making the tank

In order to construct a boiler tank by hand, you will need:

  • a gas cylinder, plastic barrel or sheet steel;
  • welding machine;
  • 2 ball valves;
  • drill with metal drill bits;
  • HEATING ELEMENT.

It’s great if you have a plastic barrel or gas cylinder. In all other situations, body welding will be required in order to create a boiler by hand:

  1. Drill 2 holes in the upper part of the finished cylinder with the bottom – one will receive hot water, the other – cold water.
  2. Fit ball valves into these openings.
  3. Drill 2 more holes on the side – to install the heat exchanger.
  4. Connect spigots to the inlet and outlet of the heat exchanger.
  5. In the lower part, drill a hole for a drain cock
  6. Install the heaters, or better – two or three, one above the other, in the bottom of the tank.
  7. Insulate the heating elements from the water.
  8. Install thermostats (from the same heating elements).

Number of heaters

The number of heating elements you add to your boiler by hand will depend on both the desired power of the device and the strength of each element:

  1. Calculate the amount of water – it is equal to the volume of the cylinder multiplied by the density, that is, by 1 liter.
  2. Determine the amount of time you would like to heat the water in.

When you install the heaters in your boiler yourself, keep the following in mind:

  • Take into account that the heater with a power of 6 kW copes with heating a tank of 300 liters of water to a temperature of 100 ° C in about 3 hours.
  • Based on this, you can calculate how much you need to install household heaters with a standard capacity of 2 kW in your tank.
  • Usually you need 2, but for especially impatient tenants it is better to take 3 heating elements.
  • Fix them with brass nuts – they are sold in electrical stores. Place the heaters in such a way as to ensure circulation.

The hot water rises to the surface. The warm stream will rise higher, travel to the opposite wall, and then gradually start to descend as fresh heated water replaces the old one if there is only one heater at the top. The water below will warm up as a result of doing this.

Crucial! If you only have two heaters, you can arrange the first one in the bottom third of the height and the second one above the first.

In the quest for a cozy home and lower energy bills, mastering your heating system is key. When it comes to boilers, building one yourself can be a cost-effective and empowering choice. By understanding the fundamentals of boiler design and operation, sourcing the right materials, and following safety guidelines, DIY enthusiasts can create a reliable heating solution tailored to their needs. Whether it"s for radiant floor heating, hot water supply, or powering a central heating system, building your own boiler allows for customization and control over efficiency. However, it"s crucial to approach this project with caution, ensuring proper installation and maintenance to avoid risks such as leaks or carbon monoxide exposure. With the right knowledge and precautions, crafting your boiler can be a rewarding endeavor, providing warmth and comfort for years to come.

Installation of the automatic water heater

  1. Storage tank.
  2. A large tank for cold water (at least 50 liters, it can be any container, such as a barrel).
  3. WC valve with a float.
  4. Materials necessary for the installation of the water supply (flexible hoses, fittings for connecting the water supply hoses (compression sleeves with a sleeve, union nuts and fittings, gaskets), mixer).
  5. Materials required for wiring (wires, terminals, light bulbs, RCD circuit breaker).
  6. Plywood (or other material) for creating the thermal insulation box.
  7. Material (e.g. foam plastic) for the insulation box.
  8. Fasteners for the tanks. Their type depends on where and how you plan to locate the homemade heater. Usually, if the design calls for a suspended system, steel angles are used.
  • for creating a thermal insulation box: jigsaw, carpenter"s knife, hammer;
  • for wiring: screwdrivers, pliers, screwdriver-tester or stylus;
  • for the installation of water pipes: adjustable wrenches, pliers, a stationery knife;
  • to install the fasteners: perforator or drill, hammer, pliers.

You will need to drill another hole in the tank in order to install the toilet valve with float in the water heater. This valve will control the automatic water supply. It ought to be beneath the tank’s actual lid at the top of the structure.

Your current valve design might need to be slightly altered because it might not fit the tank’s dimensions. As a result, the float rod frequently needs to be shortened. Additionally, if the container has stiffening ribs, the float mounts need to be slightly bent beneath the water heater shape.

The design should be set up in steps rather than allowing for pumps and the supply of water under artificial pressure. The cold water tank must be installed (either by mounting it on the wall or elevating it) above all else. Subsequently, the water heater tank is suspended, approximately 0.7–1.2 meters below the large tank’s level. Additionally, the mixer and sink are installed on the lowest level.

In order to prevent the water in the tank from cooling down too quickly, it is necessary to construct a heat-insulating box. This can be done by sawing plywood walls with the intention of placing foam plastic or another heat-insulating material between the walls and the tank. For safety reasons, the box is constructed with the assumption that all electrical wiring is outside.

The water supply system and electrical wiring can then be installed.

Returning to the contents table

Mounting the water heater

You must first remove the valve and the propane cylinder. An old cylinder will smell like gas for a while if it is used. Flushing the cylinder should be done first. This requires cutting, thorough cleaning, and priming with a unique nitrate. The cylinder needs to be welded together once the primer has dried. 50 liters of water can be heated by one of these boilers.

The assembly process then starts. First, take out the valve that was included with the kit. In its place, a 32 mm-diameter steel nut is welded. However, you must first give the nut a bent thread.

To improve the connection between the water heater fixture and the mounting location, this action is required.

Schematic illustration of a boiler coil.

The next stage will be stuffing the water heater. For what it is necessary to take a part of the pipe (diameter – 15 mm). On one side of this pipe, a thread is machined out with the help of a clipper. The length of the hot water supply pipe should be commensurate with the length of the boiler. In this case the water will be heated evenly. The pipe for the cold water supply is made according to the following principle. A plug is attached to the metal pipe and holes are drilled along the pipe. Openings are necessary to prevent the hot and cold water flows from mixing. The thread is milled in the other side of the pipe.

You need to take a few more steps if you wish to connect the manufactured water heater to an indirect type storage boiler. The heating system will provide the necessary heat. It is therefore necessary to drill a 50 mm diameter hole. That’s what the heat exchanger needs. This yields a pipe that is then used to insert another pipe inside of it. After that, both pipes’ joints and plugs are welded. Using silicone compounds to insulate the joints is preferable.

Diagram of the connections in a boiler.

With this kind of water heater, the output is removed from the bottom and the water is supplied from the top. If there is a strong heating element, you can get warm water without preheating because hot water pours upward. An alternative is to weld the water heater to the heating boiler’s vertical riser. In this instance, there are very few visible pipes and you won’t need to worry about fixing the water heater.

Next, a steel angle is taken. Bolts are mounted to the corner beforehand. They serve as fasteners for mounting the boiler to the wall. The pipe with the nut is wrapped with hemp, and a 2 KW heating element with thermostat is installed in the nut. Thermostat is suitable for any factory heater. Then a special light bulb with a light signal (or LED) is attached to the water heater. Then the heating element should be wrapped with heat-insulating material. In order to keep the water heater as long as possible without cooling, it should be covered with foam plastic. As an option, it can be placed in a large box, the gaps of which are filled with any insulation (glass wool, foam crumbs). For insulation, you can use a laminate substrate. It is necessary to wrap 2 bases of the heater with this material and along the diameter. Then repeat the wrapping procedure, but now the material with the shiny side turned outward.

This plan can also be used for building vertical and floor boilers. The horizontal water heater’s connection point differs slightly from the one mentioned above, but the internal filling remains the same.

Returning to the contents table

Advantages of homemade heaters

Why do owners frequently favor building a boiler by hand? Compared to a factory boiler, a homemade boiler offers numerous benefits.

  1. Connects to the heating system.
  2. It is placed next to the boiler.
  3. Much cheaper than a purchased one
  4. Allows you to save energy resources.
  5. Allows you to maintain a constant water temperature.

If we discuss the drawbacks of the boiler directly, they are as follows:

  1. You need a fairly spacious room to put or hang the heater.
  2. If the device is not powerful enough, the water takes a long time to heat up.
  3. Limescale forms quickly, so it is better to soften the water

Crucial! Another benefit of a homemade unit is that it runs off the power grid in the summer and the central heating supply in the winter.

The simplest heat exchanger

This is how a homemade heater looks:

The central heating pipe is welded with a larger diameter shell. It turns out to be a hermetic container that the hot coolant is flowing through. Flanges for the cold water supply (drain) should be arranged on opposing sides of the outer pipe, which is really a boiler. The water inside the boiler heats up quickly if the heat transfer medium is sufficiently hot. Following that, the hot water supply can be used by opening the upper tap and continuing to use it until cold water replaces the hot water.

The system functions well, if we set aside the legality of retrofitting the collective heating network (there is hardly any significant liability for this). With the exception of a one-time material cost and a bottle of hot beverage for the welder, hot water is conditionally free.

There won’t be any typical issues if you install a self-contained flow water heater in a private home.

The external tank’s volume is the only restriction. Because there is not enough thermal energy stored in the heating pipe, the water will not heat up in real time. As a result, the system operates in a cycle of heating, use, and heating. The hot water reserve increases with pipe length or higher diameter ratio. The longer it takes to warm up as a result.

Another significant drawback is that these heaters are inoperable during the summer (when the heating is off).

The procedure for making a boiler

It is required to create a homemade indirect heating boiler:

  • prepare the tank;
  • make a coil;
  • carry out thermal insulation work;
  • to assemble the structure;
  • Connect the coil to the home"s heating system;
  • connect the cold water supply;
  • make a tap or connection for warm water.

Step #1 – what and how to make a tank from?

The warm water tank can be composed of plastic, stainless steel, enameled metal, or titanium. To put it briefly, any sufficiently clean and appropriately sized corrosion-resistant tank will do. Of course, you’ll need a welding machine to work with a metal container. After a year of use, tanks with enamel or a glass-ceramic coating may need to be replaced because they are not very resistant to corrosion. Tanks made of stainless steel are far more dependable and long-lasting.

It is thought that a gas cylinder works well for creating a boiler. Purchasing a new tank is preferable, but used gas cylinders work just as well in this situation. It just needs to be cut into two pieces, and the cylinder’s inner walls need to be thoroughly cleaned and primed. You will have to tolerate the smell of propane in the water coming from the boiler for a few weeks if this is left undone.

An indirect boiler may be fitted with a gas cylinder as a tank. It is appropriately sized and configured, and it is fairly sturdy.

The tank gets holes made in it:

  • for cold water supply;
  • for the hot water outlet;
  • Two – for mounting the coil with the coolant.

Alternative methods of heating the coolant will be required because heating equipment is not used in the summer. For this reason, some people have had success using solar panels mounted on their roofs. To solve the issue more affordably, an electric heating element can be installed.

Step #2 – tackle the issue of thermal insulation

It is essential to apply a layer of high-quality thermal insulation to the exterior of the boiler in order to minimize natural heat losses. Thermal insulation work is usually more convenient when completed prior to construction assembly. Insulation can be made of any suitable material, including regular assembly foam. Insulation is fastened using wire ties, glue, or any other technique.

Since the effectiveness of the device depends on the quality of the thermal insulation, it is crucial that the boiler body be completely insulated.

Sometimes a larger diameter tank is used to create thermal insulation. After inserting the boiler, insulation material is placed between the walls of these containers.

Step #3 – making the coil

Small-diameter plastic or metal pipes are used to create the coil. On a cylindrical mandrel—which could be a large-diameter, robust pipe, a cylindrical log, etc.—the pipe is carefully wound. Carefully coiled around a cylindrical mandrel is the pipe. ο.

You may use small-diameter plastic and metal pipes to create a coil for an indirect heating boiler. They are positioned along the walls or in the middle of the tank.

The size and arrangement of the tank determines both the coil’s diameter and the total number of coils. The water will warm up to the proper temperature more quickly the larger the coil’s surface area that it comes into contact with.

Winding the pipe on the mandrel doesn’t require any extra work on your part. It will be challenging to remove the coil from the mandrel if it fits too tightly.

Different types of deposits build up on the heating element’s surface as it operates. The coil should be cleaned from them roughly once a year.

Stage #4 – assembly and connection of the structure

The gadget needs to be put together once all the components are prepared. It is required to carefully restore the thermal insulation layer if it was harmed during the assembly process.

After mounting the cold water supply pipes, the coil is connected to the home’s heating system. To obtain hot water, one typically installs a faucet or promptly connects to the kitchen sink, bathroom sink, etc. ¿.

Brackets can be used to install such a boiler on the wall. Special "ears," made of steel angle bar, are welded to the metal tank to firmly secure the construction. All that’s left to do is firmly fasten the appliance in a practical location and take advantage of a fully functional hot water supply at no extra expense.

Connecting the boiler

Only plastic pipes (metal pipes are not permitted) or high-pressure output hoses must be connected to the gvs pipes in order for the boiler to be connected correctly (do not confuse the hot and cold outputs). Installing a check valve on the cold water inlet is required. This valve keeps the water from draining out of the heater, which prevents an electric shock from occurring in the event that the heating element burns out. It is essential for preventing the heating element from burning when there is no water in the water supply system.

The phase must be connected to the heating element in order for the temperature regulator to sense a trigger and cut off the current, thus powering the heater. Using a tester or screwdriver with an indicator, check for phase disconnection after connecting the two wires and carefully removing the thermoregulator from the heating element to determine which of the contacts to connect. establishing a physical foundation. While some people neutralize, consulting an electrician is preferable. The boiler can be built into a furniture cabinet or placed next to a gas boiler.

A two-cylinder boiler holds 80 liters and a 100 liter capacity. A type of hydroaccumulator, or storage water heater, is produced by the heat exchanger’s exchange of heat from the electric shadow.

As you can see, the boiler’s mechanism is straightforward and uncomplicated. Using the same idea, a floor boiler can be made by hand.

You can define yourself as a vertical boiler or a horizontal boiler. The insides of homemade gosontal are identical, but the wiring diagram is slightly different. It turns out that it’s no worse than a boiler burning thermex, baxi, acv, drazice, or gorenje, or even an electrolux or an ariston.

Water heaters are installed in the boiler room, one of the boiler equipment’s components. Gas boilers can be replaced with homemade boiler water heaters for electric heating.

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How to make a homemade boiler water heater for heating water

We take a brand-new, regular gas cylinder (named "propane"), and the old one unscrews the screw (call gas economy; they will unscrew for a "bubble" or write out right away to purchase a cylinder without a tap, which is much less expensive). The water will have a faint gas smell for two months if you make a water heater out of the former in use’s cylinder. Only after giving the gas cylinder a thorough water rinse can you start welding.

To ensure that the water doesn’t smell bad or gas-like, cut it in half, give it a thorough cleaning with a metal brush, and prime the inside with nitro primer. I haven’t tried anything more efficient to get rid of the gas smell; once the paint dries, weld the two halves of the cylinder back together.

With one gas cylinder will get a boiler for 50 liters and the price after assembly will eventually be about 50 $. Reviews of such boilers are positive work for five and more years, at home I also have the same water heater for more than five years already, burns little and hot water is always, the time required for heating about 30 minutes. And now finally proceed to the assembly of the heater. Where the electric tenon is screwed in (instead of the factory brass screw) you need to weld a steel nut with a diameter of 32 mm (buy at the plumbing market or in the store). Before welding it, screw a bent thread into the nut, so that it does not bend, otherwise in the process of assembling the water heater electric heating element will not fit in its place (will not screw in).

Let’s now get ready to fill the boiler from the inside using the plan. Initially, we require a segment of metal tubing measuring 15 mm in diameter, or half an inch. We used a lerchka to cut a short thread at one end.

The boiler’s top should be reached by the hot water pipe. Additionally, cold water from the water supply will be used to create a splitter for the water heater’s supply. This splitter will have a tube on one side of the plug and drilled holes on the sides to prevent hot water from heating up and mixing with the incoming cold water, as well as threads on the opposite side.

Advantages and disadvantages of the indirect heating boiler

The benefits of utilizing a homemade boiler:

  • connection to the central heating system;
  • installation close to the heating boiler;
  • insignificant expenses for installation of the circuit;
  • a significant reduction in energy consumption;
  • constant water temperature.

The minuses are responsible for the following:

  • installation of a boiler requires a large area or a separate room;
  • it takes a long time to heat a large volume of water, while the heating of the premises will be carried out with less intensity;
  • rapid formation of deposits on the serpentine tube, requiring cleaning by chemical or mechanical means twice a year.

This means of getting hot water is appropriate for the heating season. In other cases, an electric heating element integrated into the boiler’s tank can serve as the coolant.

After that, electricity will be used to heat the water. In this instance, you can switch on the boiler whenever it’s needed or during the night when reduced rates apply.

Making a boiler with your own hands

Such a device can be manufactured independently due to its rather simple operating principle. Let’s now discuss how to build an indirect heating boiler by hand.

The entire process of making the water heater involves putting the design’s component pieces together:

Tank

A boiler vessel is made out of a tank. Its volume is determined by calculating the daily consumption of 50–70 liters per person, depending on the hot water needs of the house’s owners. For a family of four, a 200-liter boiler would be plenty.

The heating device’s tank ought to be composed of corrosion-resistant materials such as stainless steel or aluminum alloys. An alternative would be a gas cylinder, but first the walls need to be primed and cleaned. If you don’t do this, the hot water will smell like gas.

Two holes on the side for the coil mounting, one at the bottom for the inlet pipe, one at the top for water extraction, and one at the bottom for the drain cock are to be made in the tank. It is essential to make arrangements for the installation of a heating coil in order to use the boiler during the non-heating season. It is also drilled for in the bottom hole. Ball valves or shut-off elements are fixed to the holes created.

coil

This element works well with copper or brass tubing, the diameter and length of which are determined by the tank’s capacity. The coil tube’s calculated heat output is 1.5 kW per 10 liters on average. A metal, plastic, or other metal tube with good heat dissipation can be used.

Onto a mandrel that is cylindrical, the tube is spiraled. For this, a log or pipe with a large diameter can be used.

It’s crucial to wind the coil according to the coils:

  • For best contact between the heating surface of the tube and the water to be heated, the coils should not touch each other;
  • Do not coil the coil with excessive force, then it will be difficult to remove the coil from the mandrel.
  • The number of turns on the coil is calculated from the volume and height of the tank.

Thermal insulation

An insulating layer must be applied to the exterior of the tank. Reducing heat losses and improving efficiency are essential. Mounting foam, mineral wool, or any other heat-insulating material that is fastened to the base using wire, glue, or strip ties can be used to insulate the tank. It is preferable to cover the tank body with foil insulating material or thin sheet metal for a clean look.

An additional container with a greater diameter can also be used to help insulate the tank. This is accomplished by inserting the homemade boiler into a sizable tank and filling the thermos-style partition with foam or insulating material.

Mounting

After assembling the boiler by hand, the following steps are taken to prepare all the parts:

  • the coil in the center or along the walls is mounted inside the tank, to its inlet and outlet pipe soldered spigots;
  • for a vertically standing boiler, supports are welded to the bottom, for a hinged unit – hinge "ears";
  • the heating element is installed;
  • The boiler is tightly closed with a lid;
  • connection of the coil according to the scheme of making an indirect heating boiler with your own hands to the heating system circuit;
  • connection of the inlet/outlet water pipe;
  • pipe connection to the kitchen or bathroom at the point of water intake.

Video: how to make an indirect heating boiler with your own hands

Video: making an indirect heating boiler

Solar water heater

The most popular, economical, and nearly traditional method of having hot water during the summer at the summer cottage is a solar water heater. Many people are able to make such a water heater by hand because it is not hard to manufacture. In order to install it, you’ll need to buy or have:

  • A large container for the storage tank of 100 liters or more;
  • PVC plastic pipes to fill the tank and bring water to the summer shower;
  • 20 mm steel angles or 50 mm square wooden blocks for the frame for the storage tank.

Large polyethylene barrels work best as containers because they are the lightest, most portable, and most resilient material available. They have found themselves in a sunny, wind-sheltered spot. The roof of the summer shower is the location of installation choice most frequently.

To improve heating, the storage tank is painted black. Many install protective screens made of boards with foil or other reflective materials near the storage tanks on the leeward side. In this instance, the water heater will receive additional reflection from the sun’s rays, which will raise the water’s temperature. When it’s hot outside, the storage water heater can provide 40 to 45 degrees of water by evening from a 200-liter barrel.

Water heater from polyethylene bottles

During the day, you can install a water heating system with your hands using regular plastic bottles. These are fitted into the storage tank. The intended capacity directly determines how many of them are needed. To further aid in installation, you will require:

  • Inexpensive sealant;
  • Connecting plastic PVC pipes;
  • Electric drill;
  • Two valve or ball valves.

Every bottle needs to be ready for installation in advance. This is accomplished by drilling a hole in the bottom of each bottle that is the same diameter as its neck. Next, up to ten bottles for one "battery" are used by inserting the neck of one bottle into the hole in the bottom of another bottle, the neck of a third bottle into the bottom of the last bottle, and so on. There is no cap on the quantity of these "batteries." For a dependable connection, sealant is applied to every joint.

Next, the modules that have been prepared are positioned on the roof’s south slope, preferably on the slate’s inner waves. Each section’s output is then connected to a plastic pipe that is positioned perpendicular to them. Partitioning every module section is akin to inserting bottles into the "battery" and then caulking every butt joint.

The basic operation of a homemade boiler made of plastic bottles

After the storage module zone is set up, the outlets from each "battery" are inserted into the main pipe, which has a cold water supply valve and a hot water discharge valve installed on either side. In addition, the owner’s wishes are followed when installing the supply and return pipes.

When built by hand, a basic solar water heater can have a respectable efficiency. One person will require one hundred liters of water to take a shower. You can estimate the water module’s size by factoring in the family’s need for hot water.

It is feasible to heat 60 liters of water nearly to boiling in an hour on a summer day using only the sun’s energy and clear weather, but this rarely occurs due to significant heat losses. Although it is not really necessary, in clear weather the sun can raise the water’s temperature in the installed modules to 40 to 45 degrees two or three times a day. Consequently, given the dacha’s conditions, this hot water is more than sufficient for the family’s domestic and household needs.

2 Pros and cons of the equipment boiler is good, but far from ideal

One of the indirect water heater’s benefits, though not the only one, is its economical use. Other operational benefits of the boiler include:

  • Sufficiently high performance. Its specific indicator depends on the cross-section of pipes installed in the unit, as well as on the power characteristics of the heating boiler itself.
  • No load on the household electricity network (unless a heating element is additionally mounted).
  • The possibility of operating the equipment all year round (requires the installation of TEN – a special heater) and the use of different sources of heat energy. In a number of cases it is of great importance.
  • Absence of contact areas between the coolant containing a considerable amount of harmful salts and the heated water.

Let’s now examine the drawbacks of the water heaters under discussion and potential remedies. The boiler’s biggest drawback is the size of the tank. Because of its large size, installing the unit in small spaces may present challenges. The second drawback is that heating water in a large volume container takes a while. Additionally, there is a little drop in the dwelling’s heating intensity when the liquid in the tank is heated.

It is evident from the explanation of the indirect water heater’s operating principle that it can only be used when the heating system is operating in the absence of any additional devices. Thus, the winter months are the only times the boiler is used. And what if we want hot water all the time, no matter how cold it gets outside? It’s incredibly grounded. All that needs to be done is add a heating element to the heater. It is attached to the mains and integrated into the tank. It’s obvious that you have to pay the electricity bill in this situation. At least your home will always have the necessary amount of hot water.

The process of creating a water heater

With all the materials and equipment ready, we will now go over how to build a storage water heater by hand in detail (see the article at this link for instructions on how to make an electric boiler yourself).

  1. As already described above, process the gas cylinder , to do this, cut it lengthwise, with the help of a welding machine, clean it with primer, then perform welding and connect the two parts back to back.
  2. Then make two holes in the walls of the cylinder. One at the bottom is for cold water intake, the other at the top is for heated liquid outlet.
  3. Install ball valves on the outlets and a non-return valve on the incoming cold pipe to prevent leakage.
  4. The heating element is installed at the top where the gas valve should be. For its installation, 32 mm nuts are used. Before welding, a bending thread is screwed onto the inner surface of the heater. This will ensure that the structure is well secured and will not shift in future use. Then insulate the TEN with the help of wool or lubricant, the next step is to make the installation of thermostat and LED (installed to monitor the work of the homemade device)
  5. Then make the connection of metal pipes . The length of the heated water supply pipe should be 5 cm short of the bottom of the container. If you do otherwise, during operation there will be mixing of heated and cold liquid. The length of the cold water pipe should be about 14 cm. One of its ends should be closed off (soldered), and at the second end at the bottom, at a distance of 8-9 cm, it is necessary to perform a splitter. This can be done with the help of 3 holes, but do not make it at the end of the pipe, as this will lead to mixing of water.
  6. Let"s perform thermal insulation measures, i.e. minimize heat losses. We can do this with the following materials: assembly foam, polyurethane foam, polyurethane foam, isonon. For this we need a thin sheet of metal, the area should be slightly larger than the area of our device. We make a cylinder out of it and insert our device into it. And in the gap between the walls lay the insulation material of your choice. At the bottom and at the top with the help of welding mount the covers.
  7. We mount our appliance on the chosen place and make a test run.

To assist, here is a video showing you how to build a DIY gas cylinder water heater:

Electrical

First of all, it should be mentioned that you can only assemble different types of electrical appliances if you have a solid understanding of the equipment and the required electrical safety knowledge. If not, your invention might endanger the lives and health of the people living in your homes.

If you think you have the skills and knowledge to build a water heater at home, we have a version of the device that you can readily assemble on your own.

Our device will be built using the "mydodyr" device as a model. It is a sink that has a water heater attached to it via a connected water tank. Such a device only costs about two or three thousand rubles, which is very cheap. It is our responsibility to enhance the "mydodyr" by fitting it with a 120-liter tank and a pump that enables automatic tank filling.

  • First of all, it is necessary to find a suitable place to place the tank. It should not interfere with movement in the room. In addition, it is necessary to position the tank so that it is inaccessible to small children.
  • Then we cut a hole in the tank and insert a valve with a float – such as those used in toilet cisterns. To make the system work, the rod holding the float should be made a little shorter.
  • Next, we connect the tank to the mixer of the washbasin or sink. It is most convenient to do this with a special hose from a washing machine.
  • Install the heating element in the pre-cut hole for it. Seal the connection using rubber gaskets. It is best to choose for this purpose a heater designed for a capacity of 1.2 kW, equipped with a thermoregulator.
  • On the electrical wiring install a safety disconnect device with a pair of indicators, one of which will signal that our device is on, and the other – that the heating process is underway.
  • To make the system work more efficiently, it is recommended to insulate the tank by wrapping it with heat-insulating material. You can hide the water heater or make it look more aesthetically pleasing by constructing a neat box for it.

Storage boiler tank and boiler itself

A gas cylinder is the ideal choice, as we previously stated. Here, you have two choices: purchase a new tank or use an existing one.

Inform them that you require a cylinder without a valve when making a purchase. It will be less expensive in the first place, and processing it further will be easier for you in the second place.

Required apparatus:

  • Welding machine;
  • A die/tap;
  • Metal drill;
  • Gas wrenches;
  • Screwdrivers.

Resources:

  • Gas cylinder;
  • 32mm nut;
  • TEN with thermoregulator – it is better to buy in the store, capacity from 1.5 to 3 kW;
  • Grease or packet to cover the heating element;
  • Water pipes (made of plastic);
  • Parts for fixing the boiler;
  • Terminals and wires for connecting the electrical part.
  • Ball valves and check valves.

To better understand how to construct the boiler, we advise watching the following video:

Step 1: Treat the inner surface of the used cylinder. If you don’t, the water will always smell like gas, which isn’t nice. To accomplish this, you must use a standard welding machine to split the cylinder into two pieces. Next, weld the two pieces back together into one after giving the surface a thorough cleaning and nitro primer treatment.

Step 2: Next, we drill two holes in the tank using a drill. The hot water intake will be located in the upper section of the tank, and the cold water supply will be located in the lower section.

Step 3: To prevent the liquid from flowing back out, make sure to install a check valve on the cold water supply pipe and a ball valve on each outlet.

Step 4: The valve or faucet attachment point is where the heating element is installed. We need a 32 mm nut to successfully attach it. On its inner surface, a bending thread needs to be made before welding. This will guarantee that it is fixed as precisely and without additional displacement as possible.

The thermo regulator and LED are then installed, and the heating element is insulated using hemp and grease. You guessed it—the last one catches fire as the water is being heated by the boiler.

Step 5: Let’s connect the two metal pipes now. The pipe that will be fed heated liquid shouldn’t extend all the way to the cylinder lid. If not, there is a risk of combining hot and cold water. The cold water tube’s length should be between 13 and 16 centimeters. A soldered plug should be placed at one end of the pipe, and a diffuser should be made at the other end of the "cold" pipe, which is located 7–10 cm from the cylinder’s bottom. It is very easy to make: two holes must be made in the pipe’s body.

The diffuser should not be placed at the very end of the cold water pipe. This could lead to a mixture of the clean water and sediment from the tank’s bottom.

Step 6: Insulate the boiler to reduce heat loss.

As a substance that provides thermal insulation

  • Mounting foam;
  • Polyurethane foam;
  • Foam foam;
  • Isolon.

This is a very easy step to do: a thin metal cylindrical container with a diameter that is 5–6 cm larger than the boiler itself is made. Next, a thermal insulation option is used to fill the space between the water heater and the casing walls. Covers on top and bottom are welded on.

A lot of handymen suggest the following approach for thermal insulation:

The entire boiler body is wrapped with a foil laminate liner. Wire or glue are used to secure it.

Step 7: Install the mount on the boiler by tightening the "ears" and adjusting a corner on the wall where the water heater will be placed.

With heating from the sun

A solar-powered water heater will be more complicated to operate but safer overall. You can also make it by hand, but it will require a lot more time and materials than in the previous instance. If that doesn’t deter you, follow the directions for building a solar water heater below.

Necessary tools, materials and principle of work

  • glass wool
  • a wooden block;
  • 20 mm diameter pipes;
  • glass sheets;
  • profile square tube with a diameter of 20 mm;
  • metal profiles;
  • metal corners;
  • insulation for the glass;
  • sheets of thin metal;
  • A water tank of the required volume;
  • fittings;
  • self-tapping screws;
  • dowels;
  • heat-resistant black matte paint;
  • water-resistant plywood;
  • water pipes;
  • pipe insulation;
  • pipe with a high degree of thermal conductivity (for the coil);
  • drill;
  • welding machine.

How to make a heat exchanger?

An apparatus with two outlets that circulates and heats water is called a heat exchanger. Hot water is released through one outlet while cold water enters the tank through the other.

The coil must be made before the heat exchanger can be assembled. A metal tube bent in a spiral is the coil. Making sure the water is heated as effectively as possible requires it.

Heat should be well-conducted from the tube you will use to create the coil. The best products for this use are made of copper.

How to make an absorber for a collector?

The sun’s heat should be used to heat the heat exchanger that we have assembled. However, the heat exchanger’s surface area is insufficient to swiftly and evenly heat large volumes of water in the tank when it is exposed to the sun. To store and transfer heat to the water heater, you’ll need to construct an additional, bigger device. We refer to such a device as an "absorber."

Thin metal sheets, which are known to heat up quickly and hold heat for extended periods of time, can be used to create absorbers. Glass sheets are positioned on top of tubes that have been positioned in between the plates. A substantial layer of insulation, typically made of glass wool, sits at the base of the structure.

How to make a box for a water heater?

Our construction needs to be enclosed in a box in order to hold strong and be shielded from the elements. The box will give extra thermal insulation and serve as a sort of support frame.

The box will be put together using a wooden bar. It needs to be at least 70 mm tall. The edges are insulated with the same mineral wool, and the bottom is covered with sheets of moisture-resistant plywood.

How to assemble a solar water heater?

We assemble the solar-heated water-heating device in the following sequence:

  • lay out the first layer – it will be a plywood substrate;
  • install the heat exchanger on the substrate;
  • lay an absorber on top of the heat exchanger;
  • paint the absorber in black color;
  • assemble the box from the lumber;
  • lay glass sheets on top of the absorber.

The video clip that follows will teach you more about the solar collector and its apparatus.

Calculating the volume of the indirect heating boiler and designing the coil

The demand for hot water directly affects the tank’s capacity. It is widely acknowledged that each family member only needs 50 to 70 liters of hot water per day. Thus, a family of three to four people can get by with a 200-liter boiler. Use any appropriate heat-resistant container made of a corrosion-resistant material, such as plastic, aluminum, or stainless steel, as a tank. The tank has ball valves installed for the inlet and outlet.

The coil’s pipe diameter and length are determined by the tank’s volume, the type of pipe, the coolant’s temperature, and its flow rate. You need a coil with a heat capacity of roughly 1.5 kW for every 10 liter tank. To ensure maximum contact between the coil’s heating surface and the heated water, the coil is typically made of a brass tube with a diameter of 8 to 20 mm that has been coiled in a spiral so that the coils do not touch. The required coil power must be computed in order to get the tube’s total length. The tube’s length is then calculated using the following formula:

Formula for figuring out the boiler’s overall pipe length

Where P is the coil’s heat output in kilowatts;

D is the pipe’s diameter in meters;

ΔT is the Celsius temperature differential between the heated water and the coolant.

For instance, a coil with a 30 kW heat output is needed for a 200 liter tank. The coil tube has a diameter of 10 mm, or 0.01 m. The incoming water temperature is 15°C, while the coolant temperature is 80°C. To determine the coil’s length, use the formula above:

To find the coil’s length, use the formula below.

In this instance, the coil is constructed as a 40 cm-diameter spiral. Such a coil will have 12 coils with a coil spacing of 6–8 cm and a tank diameter of 0.5 m and height of 1 m. Winding is made easier by using a template, which is a pipe with the right diameter. It is more practical to operate the coil’s inlet and outlet from one side of the tank.

Systematic idea

Large volume storage systems

We now know the primary drawback of the "pipe in a pipe" water heating element. Heating indirectly takes too long. The water can be heated in a larger container because it is difficult to increase the heat output. Additionally, the heat exchanger may be "tinkered with." The best version of the diagram is a coil inside a broad body.

The design consists of a 50, 100, or 200 liter tank with a coil inside (the longer, the more effective heating). It doesn’t matter where the heat comes from; it usually comes from the room’s heating circuit. The sanitary (internal) tank’s water heats up sufficiently fast. The unequal distribution of heat is the only issue. There remains a "cold" area at the bottom of the boat. The cold area prevents the entire volume from warming up even with the proper heated water extraction scheme (the intake pipe from the top).

If you make it yourself, you should use a copper coil and a stainless steel tank. The system’s high efficiency will offset the additional costs.

Especially considering that there is no shortage of materials. The old activator-style washing machine’s tank works well. Any sanitary store will sell the copper tube.

An additional choice is "tank in a tank." Examine this plan in greater detail if you are wondering how to build a boiler by hand.

Corrugated walls are preferred for the inner tank, which is where the indirect heating will occur. Consequently, the area of heat exchange is greater. Additionally, an external point is where the main heating water flows. The idea behind the heater is obvious if you have ever cooled a pot filled with hot compote in a basin filled with cold water.

Such a system will be more efficient, of course, but it will also be more complex.

5 Make a coil and assemble the device will not be a problem

The boiler’s spiral-shaped element is constructed from metal or plastic pipe. Its diameter should be between 0.82 and 2 cm. The pipe is wound around a stronger mandrel with a cylindrical shape, a larger cross-sectional cylindrical log, or a metal pipe product. Ensure that the spiral’s coils stay apart from one another. In this instance, we’ll make sure that the heated water and the heating surface make as much contact as possible.

Constructing the water heater’s coil

The capacity of the tank determines both the number of coils and the coil length. The length of the coil for a boiler built from a 200-liter cylinder is roughly 15 meters. There must be twelve coils (spaced approximately seven centimeters apart). Avoid wrapping the mandrel with the coil too tightly. It will need to be disassembled and cleaned from accumulated deposits once a year. Removing the coil will be difficult if it is wound too tightly.

Now, let’s put our water heater together:

  1. 1. Install the coil along the walls or in the center of the tank.
  2. 2. Solder the spigots to the outlet and inlet pipe.
  3. 3. Weld to the body of the device lugs – fixing elements made of metal angle, when the boiler is planned to hang on the wall. If the heater is installed vertically on the floor, legs must be welded to its bottom. They will ensure the stability of the unit.
  4. 4. Cut threads on the ends of the spiral element and screw a lock nut on it. Then lead the coil outside the tank, pull on its ends gaskets of rubber, and on them – couplings with threads. Connect the coil to the heating system circuit.
  5. 5. Connecting the device to the inlet and outlet pipe.

The plumbing for the various rooms—kitchen and bathroom—is the last task. In the event that no piping is anticipated, install a hot water tap valve. After making sure all the connections are tight, turn on the DIY water heater.

Calculation of basic boiler parameters

It is essential to determine the minimum tank volume and the heat exchanger’s working length prior to beginning the material search and manufacturing process.

Tank volume and shape

The number of tenants who live there permanently at the location where the equipment is being installed directly affects the water tank’s volume. A person is thought to use up to 80 liters of water every day. As a rough estimate, 45–50 liters per person should be taken. The water in the tank will stagnate if the standard is broken, which will undoubtedly lower the quality of the water.

The water system’s pressure force is taken into consideration when choosing the tank’s shape. The use of DIY boilers with square tanks is permitted when the pressure is low. Equipment that has a rounded top and bottom can only be used in a system that is under high pressure.

Only low operating pressure water supply systems can use boilers with square or rectangular storage tanks.

The truth is that rising pressure causes bending forces to develop on the tank walls, which causes the tank’s square or rectangular shape to distort. Because of improved streamlining, a tank with a round bottom is more resilient to deformation.

Heat exchanger capacity and length

A copper coil that is positioned between the inlet and outlet opening is typically utilized as a heat exchanger in vertical indirect heating models.

Boiler coil made of copper pipe

The ideal copper pipe for self-manufacturing is one with a diameter of 10 mm. A product like this can be readily bent by hand without the need for any tools. When using metal-plastic pipe, it is important to remember that the coolant should not be heated above 90 oC because this will cause the pipe to distort and leak at the joints, causing the water in the tank to mix.

The formula L = P / (3,14 ∞d ∙∆T) yields the length of pipe needed for the coil, where:

  • L – length of the pipe (m);
  • d – cross-section of the pipe (m);
  • ∆T – temperature difference between heated and cold water (oC);
  • P – heat exchanger capacity for every 10 liters of water (kW).

Experts state that there should be at least 1.5 kW of heat energy for every 10 liters of water. You can determine the pipe’s length needed to create the coil by keeping this in mind.

For illustration, let’s figure out how much material is needed to install a coil in a 200-liter boiler. The cold water that is supplied to the tank will be 15 oC; after heating, 80 oC water must be obtained: L = 1.5 √20 / (3.14 √0.01 √65) ≈ 15 m.

Table: length of copper heat exchanger for boilers with a capacity of 50-200 liters

Volume of the storage tank, l Power of the equipment, kW Length of the heat exchanger, m Boiler tank diameter, m Coil diameter, m Number of turns
200 30 15 0,5 0,4 12
150 22,5 11 0,5 0,4 9
100 15 7,5 0,4 0,3 8
50 7,5 4 0,4 0,3 5

The distance between the elements and the bending technique determine how many coil turns are used. Typically, the coil is positioned so that there is at least 10–12 cm of space between it and the tank walls. There should be a minimum of 5 cm between each coil. The aforementioned table displays the calculation values for storage tanks with varying capacities.

In the event that the indirect type boiler needs to be fitted with a tubular electric heater, the power consumption is computed using the knowledge that a TEG with a minimum 1.5 kW capacity is needed to swiftly heat 50 liters of water. Furthermore, a thermostat is a must for any combination boiler.

Variations of water heating equipment

What sets apart water heaters are the following groups:

Boilers with integrated water heaters are available. They have a spiral-shaped copper tube installed in them.

When put together correctly, a homemade water heater can last up to five years. Its cost is also orders of magnitude less than that of the one purchased from the store. Homemade water heaters use very little electricity to operate, and their heating times are comparable to those of their factory counterparts. It makes sense to use an electric water heater to make their own handmade goods. These types of do-it-yourself gadgets are suitable for usage in both residential apartments and rural homes.

Returning to the contents table

How to install a flow-type water heater

The flow water heater is easier to find a place for because, as was already mentioned, it is smaller in size. It can be concealed in a cabinet or hung up against the wall. Usually, it measures about 15*20*7 cm. Generally speaking, tiny. Weight: between three and four kilograms, minimizing the need for fasteners. Usually, the water heater is mounted on a mounting plate that is screwed to the wall and the water heater is hung on it, or it is hung on two small-diameter dowels that are screwed into the wall. Now that we have figured out how to install a flow-type water heater, let’s talk about the connection.

Connecting the flow heater to the water supply system

From this side, everything is easy. One drawback is that water can only be supplied to one location at a time. The warm water outlet is fitted with a dishwashing spigot or a shower head with a flexible hose, depending on where the installation is located. Both the "gooseneck" and the watering can can be inserted through the tee (as shown on the far right of the image).

Ball valves are installed at the inlet and outlet so that the heater can be removed if needed without completely cutting off the water to the apartment or house. They make reference to the required gear. The same corrugated stainless steel hoses or plastic pipes used for the boiler are used to connect the spigots to the point where they are tapped into the cold water supply line. A flexible hose is used to carry hot water to the point, if needed; as the temperature isn’t too high in this area, the hose should be able to handle it.

Diagram showing how to link a flow heater to the water supply

Flow water heaters also have the limitation of being able to adequately heat a specific volume of water. They cannot handle the task if the flow increases or the inlet temperature is too low. Because of this, these water heaters are typically used temporarily, either in rural areas or during preventive maintenance (summer shut-offs) when the hot water supply is turned off.

It is simple to solve the problem of excessive water (when the pressure rises above the normative): install a flow limiter or a reducer at the inlet. The flow limiter is a small cylinder with a valve, and the reducer is a more substantial device that should be placed at the apartment’s entrance. The cold water inlet pipe is secured with a screw. Watch the video for instructions on how to install a flow-type water heater and where to screw on the flow restrictor.

Connection to electricity

The electrical connection consists of an automatic circuit breaker, an RCD, and a dedicated line, just like with the boiler. Other than cross-sectional and nominal wires. Rated for a maximum power of 5 kW at 25 A, 7 kW at 32 A, and 7 to 9 kW at 40 A. Cross section of copper wire: 4-6 mm (monocore).

Device and principle of operation

Modern electric boilers of the accumulation type are particularly well-liked these days. They are ideal for intermittent or continuous operation in both private homes and apartment buildings.

The number of consumers determines the standard capacity of the storage tank, which can vary.

You can supply hot water to multiple points of discharge by connecting this kind of domestic water-heating device to the water supply immediately after the main pipeline system. Special thermostats in such a water-heating device represent additional options.

An external body, a typical internal storage tank, a long-lasting anti-corrosion coating, and other parts make up the device of a traditional boiler.

Instructions for assembly and connection with your own hands

After preparing each component, the boiler is assembled.

The tank has holes drilled for the coolant inlet and outlet, as well as the water filling tap. In the event that installing a heating element is chosen, a hole is also made from below for it.

  • Next, the coil is installed in the tank, and the pipes are inserted into the holes with the help of special adapters, which should preferably be welded into the boiler body. Other variants are possible, but the main thing is that the holes are sealed hermetically.
  • Feet are welded to the bottom (if provided).
  • The heating element is installed, if this was planned.
  • Then the coil is connected to the heating system circuit, according to the scheme.
  • The pipe for cold water inlet and the tap for heated water extraction are connected. It is possible to make a connection to the water intake points – to the kitchen and bathroom.

Thermal insulation

The vessel is insulated to keep the water warm for an extended period of time. Foil mineral wool or assembly foam are used for this. The appliance’s efficiency will be directly impacted by the full covering of the boiler body with thermal insulation material. It is possible to cover the insulator with a thin sheet of metal (such as galvanized) to give it a neater appearance; the result will resemble a sandwich pipe. An illustration can be found in the article’s opening image.

The principle of operation of a wood-fired boiler

The cost of installing a wood-fired titan indirect water heater is just that of accumulating a solid fuel supply. This kind of boiler is perfect for a private home because it looks like a samovar and runs on its own power source without assistance.

Fundamentals of the titanium boiler’s operation

  • The second option is more complicated because you will have to cut out sections of metal from the pipe to install the firebox and blower door in these places. In addition, by welding inside the pipe, the brackets for laying the grate should be strengthened with the help of welding. The bottom and bottom of the stove is welded with solid sheets of metal. A round hole is arranged in the upper part, a chimney pipe is welded into it, which will pass directly through the container with water and heat it to the required temperature.

It is also necessary to weld the tank to the stove lid.

  • If the stove is made of brick, the boiler tank can be round or square. The stove is covered from above with a metal panel, in which a chimney is also welded. Next, the bottomless vessel (water tank) is hermetically welded to the upper metal plane of the stove.

The chimney empties into the street after going through the water tank.

It is recommended to weld in two or three spigots with valves for the water inlet, faucet tap outlet, and shower.

Water can be manually poured into the boiler or it can enter from the mains. Furthermore, it is possible to erect a water storage tank above the boiler, from which water can also enter the heating vessel.

Installing such a water heater in the bathroom will heat the space in addition to providing hot water.

The situation where hot water takes a while to flow from a faucet after it is opened is a familiar one to anyone who has used gas columns or flow heaters that are powered by the grid. This element is totally removed when installing an indirect water heater; as soon as you open the faucet, heated water is available.

This kind of boiler can help reduce the amount of energy used when compared to water heaters that run on gas or electricity.

Materials Needed Step-by-Step Instructions
Metal container (e.g., old propane tank) 1. Clean the container thoroughly to remove any residue. 2. Cut an opening for the door and another for the chimney.
Insulation materials (e.g., ceramic fiber blanket) 3. Line the inside of the container with insulation to retain heat.
Welding equipment 4. Weld the door into place, ensuring a tight seal. 5. Attach the chimney to the opening.
Fireproof paint 6. Paint the outside of the boiler with fireproof paint to protect against rust and corrosion.

For homeowners who want to improve their heating system, building their own boiler can be a satisfying and affordable project. Building a boiler from the ground up gives you the chance to tailor it to your exact requirements and price range.

It is imperative, nevertheless, that this project be approached cautiously and thoroughly researched. It takes a strong grasp of electrical, plumbing, and safety codes to build a boiler. Before starting this project, make sure to seek advice from experts or seasoned do-it-yourselfers.

The ability to create your own boiler has a number of important benefits, one of which being increased energy efficiency. Over time, you can drastically lower your energy usage and utility costs by using high-quality materials and effective design principles.

Additionally, a do-it-yourself boiler project lets you give sustainability and environmental awareness top priority. By using renewable energy sources like solar or biomass to power your boiler, you can reduce your carbon footprint and help create a more environmentally friendly future.

In conclusion, building your own boiler has many advantages in terms of customization, energy efficiency, and sustainability, even though it can be a difficult task. You can design a heating system that is both dependable and environmentally friendly, meeting your needs and minimizing your impact on the environment with careful planning, research, and adherence to safety protocols.

Video on the topic

BARBECUE GRILL FROM AN OLD BOILER WITH YOUR OWN HANDS

Boiler. Heat accumulator. Hot water supply in the house.

Boiler with their own hands. Disadvantages of sold and my ideal.

What type of heating you would like to have in your home?
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