Tips for making a chimney for a burzhuika

You’re in the right place if you’re considering adding a chimney to your burzhuika. Any home would benefit from having a burzhuika, a traditional Russian stove that offers warmth, comfort, and even a way to cook. But a well-thought-out chimney is necessary to guarantee that it operates safely and effectively.

Although building a chimney for a burzhuika may seem difficult, it can be a doable project with the correct advice. When building a new chimney or remodeling an old one, there are a few important considerations to make sure the system works properly and safely.

Think about the materials you’ll use for your chimney first and foremost. Although metal chimneys are a more contemporary option, traditional options like brick, stone, or clay flue tiles are still available. Consider your options carefully because every material has advantages and disadvantages in terms of cost, ease of installation, and durability.

Next, consider where you want your chimney to be. To optimize heat distribution, it is best placed in the middle of your house. The chimney should also reach above the roofline to guarantee adequate ventilation and avoid downdrafts.

How to make a spark arrestor on the pipe with your own hands

Installing a spark arrestor is the first thing to do when sparks fly from the sauna chimney. Some people might not be able to afford to buy this component, or they might have trouble finding a model that fits the necessary dimensions. Consequently, making your own spark arrestor is far simpler.

Naturally, the first thing you should do is to take your time and measure everything carefully.

Crucial! Recall that the spark arrestor’s mesh should not be larger than 5 mm.

The following is how the work is completed:

1. Full measurement of the exit hole of the chimney pipe, after which a sketch drawing of the future details of the protective element is made;
2. Next, cardboard sketches are applied to the sheet of metal and cut out the finished parts. It is very important to ensure accuracy, as the detail must be fully in accordance with the sketch;
3. To make a spark arrestor, you can use a part of the ready-made mesh or make it yourself using metal bars;
4. Each of the joints should be connected by means of a welding machine, after which they should be thoroughly cleaned with a bolgar;
5. Fix each of the parts of the spark arrestor with metal rivets;
6. Completely finished protective structure should be installed on the chimney, carefully fastened;
7. The deflector is made of a sheet of metal, which is rolled into a cone and fastened with metal rivets. The deflector is also attached to the base of the spark arrestor using metal rivets.

Installing a high-quality and efficient spark arrestor is essential if you want to stop wondering why sparks fly out of the bathhouse’s chimney.

How to improve the draught through the chimney

Take note! Sauna smoke can cause carbon monoxide poisoning, which is extremely harmful to human health.

It is because of this that the proper quantity of oxygen is provided to keep the fire going and that the combustion products are released outdoors in a timely and high-quality manner.

There’s no doubt that the draught is deteriorating if there’s smoke in the sauna and less fuel burning.

It’s crucial to check for drafts prior to turning on the heat if turnkey repairmen built your chimney. There are several ways you can go about doing it. Place a piece of paper in front of the furnace and watch it; if it deflects in that direction, everything is in order; It is possible to strike a match in front of the stove and quickly put it out.

There is no issue with the draught if the smoke is directed into the chimney channel.

• Bring a piece of paper to the stove and observe – if it deflects to the side of the stove, then all is well;
• You can light a match in front of the stove and extinguish it immediately. If the smoke is directed to the chimney channel, then everything is fine with the draught.

Most of the time, a section of cold air in the chimney known as the "cold plug" is the primary cause of poor draft. This problem is easily resolved with the use of a regular newspaper that has been burned. Furthermore, insulating the attic chimney will aid in solving this issue.

Other typical reasons why draughts deteriorate are as follows:

1. The chimney is not high enough. The point is that in a short chimney the difference in pressure at the inlet and outlet is negligible. It is best to place the chimney pipe near the ridge, in this case the part of the pipe that is outside will be minimal (remember, the chimney pipe should be above the ridge at least 50 cm;
2. The cross-section of the chimney has an insufficient value;
3. Blockage is the most common and simple cause. It can be recognized by a sharp and strong deterioration of the draught, and this problem is solved by cleaning with a special ruffle;
4. Very often the wind direction affects the draft in the chimney pipe. In order to avoid this, a protective fungus should be installed on top of the chimney.

The work starts with the preparation of the walls

1. Behind the bourzhuika and the pipe throughout its entire length, the wall should be lined with an asbestos sheet at least 10 mm thick, covered with a metal screen or other heat-resistant material.
2. Depending on the method of flue gas discharge, a hole is made in the wall or ceiling, taking into account the fact that it will need additional insulation.
3. Wooden walls must be separated from the pipe by a metal box (apron) with a hole in the center.

The box opening’s minimum diameter needs to be roughly 15 mm greater than the flue duct’s diameter. The construction must be at least 150 mm away from the wooden wall in the empty space of the box, which is packed as tightly as possible with fireproof material. A through cup is often placed in the opening if the chimney is led out of the brickwork.

The chimney is fixed against a wall or ceiling:

1. The lower section (tee with a hole for condensate removal) is put on the spigot with a gasket made of heat-resistant sealant and fixed with a special clamp to completely exclude gas bursting. It is necessary to take into account that the pipe at the base must be equipped with a damper to close the chimney when the combustion is finished.
2. If the chimney is led out of the wall, the next section of the chimney can be an elbow made at the required angle. In this way, the construction is extended all the way to the floor.
3. In the case of passing the chimney through the ceiling, it will be necessary to install a straight pipe so that its end is about half a meter from the roof or rise above the ceiling ceiling slab at 30-40 cm.

There will be additional work done in the attic or outside the room:

1. On the attic side, a metal panel covers the chimney opening that is cut out of the roof.

2. The exterior of the hole needs to be completely waterproofed. One way to do this is by using a flash block, which is a special block that can be easily placed on any type of roof and sealed with sealant.

How to make a fungus on the chimney with your own hands

Therefore, making your own top for the sauna chimney pipe is not difficult, but it does require attention to detail and precise math, particularly when connecting the parts. Prior to anything else, you must choose the material. You can use almost any metal that is long enough and wide enough as a foundation, but if at all possible, we advise using stainless steel. You can then join them together using stainless steel screws or by welding.

Using a thorough, step-by-step self-tutorial, you can quickly construct a fungus on the chimney by hand.

Plan for independently making a flame arrester, plus features and advice (self-tutorial):

1. Throughout the construction and creation, it is desirable to make drawings and approximate sketches, so as not to do by eye.
2. Once you have decided on the model you need, measure your chimney pipe. The bottom pipe should be a radius slightly smaller than the chimney itself.
3. Having made the necessary drawing and determining the exact necessary dimensions – make models from heavy paper or cardboard. In this case, a mold, ruler and other stationery can help.
4. Prepare mesh or metal sheets. Mesh is better to use with gaps not more than 5 mm, including when using bars of metal.
5. From a sheet of metal 1 mm thick (you can do more) you need to cut a flat circle, and in it cut a small triangle, the top of which will be in the middle. After all – eliminate the space of the cut triangle, bending the metal between each other and fixing with rivets or screws – this is the finished top, which will need to be welded to the base.
6. Inside the pipe of the future spark arrestor attach a mesh, stretching it to the top, where you will need to do the same. It can be done in any way, starting from welding, ending with rivets. A small radius of metal can be additionally welded on the top for bonding purposes.

A long mushroom with a grid in the center (between the segments) should be the result.

Features of the operation of bourzhukes

In order to construct a functional and fire-resistant chimney for a metal stove, the following details must be considered:

1. The efficiency of the stove is extremely low – no more than 50%. Accordingly, half of the heat generated by burning wood is lost through the chimney.
2. The walls of the gas duct are decently heated – up to a maximum of 400 ° C, the average temperature is about 200 ° C.
3. From contact with cold street air inside condensation falls out. Its quantity depends on the temperature difference between the flue gases and the environment.
4. Soot settles on the walls of the channel. The more condensate is released, the faster the soot layer builds up.
5. During periodic firing, ice plugs gradually form in the area of the chimney cap, blocking the passage and reducing the natural draught. With each subsequent ignition the stove works worse and begins to smoke into the room.

Examples of improper chimney stoves are pipes clogged with soot and burned-out galvanizing.

It should be noted that condensate forms on the exterior walls of the chimney flue in addition to the interior when using traditional single-wall pipes.

Heavy moisture condensation is a result of the solid fuel heater operating in the smoldering mode. The water released from the air does not have time to evaporate because the chimney heats up less quickly closer to the head. Humidity and low-quality fuel used in garage and dacha stoves, which produce a lot of soot, exacerbate the issue.

The following issues are reduced when a burzhuika has the proper chimney:

• Reducing the amount of condensate and soot is achieved by external insulation of the section passing through the street and unheated rooms;
• Thermal insulation also prevents the upper part of the gas duct from freezing;
• installation of a chimney in a wooden house implies protection of structures from fire;
• The efficiency of the stove can be increased, and the temperature of the pipe can be lowered by organizing heat removal in various ways.

These actions are carried out in a complex. Insulation keeps moisture condensation and soot settling while heat extraction from the iron chimney boosts stove efficiency and lowers exhaust duct heating.

How does the spark arrestor on the chimney work?

Spark arrestors are used to prevent sparks from entering the sauna chimney. It’s a rather straightforward but functional design. To put it simply, a spark arrestor is just a chimney nozzle with a protective cone on top and mesh on the sides.

Among this mechanism’s salient characteristics are:

1. Installation is allowed on chimneys of any type, which work from a solid fuel stove. The mesh size of the mesh should not exceed 5 mm in this case;
2. Spark arrestor on the chimney for the bathhouse with their own hands is necessarily installed if the roofing material is not sufficiently fire-resistant;
3. Also install this mechanism should be installed on the chimney of the bathhouse, if it is equipped with equipment that supports high temperatures, and the chimney pipe has a very strong draft;
4. The mesh, which is a component of the spark arrestor, needs careful and regular cleaning. If conifers are used as firewood, cleaning is twice as often.

Although there are many distinct elements with varying forms, materials, and constructions, the fundamental idea behind how they work is always the same:

1. When the furnace is fired, the fuel used burns, producing gas and smoke that rushes up the chimney channel;
2. Directly at the exit of the chimney, the trajectory of the smoke changes, because on the way there is an obstacle in the form of a protective hood;
3. Not yet extinguished sparks are forced to pass through the mesh, which extinguishes them.

Because even the most basic spark arrestor can be made without issue on your own, you can save a lot of money on materials.

Peculiarities of chimney care

First and foremost, maintaining the birch stove’s smoke output pipe guarantees the security of both the people and the room’s belongings.

Provides it with a crucial feature: efficient heat transfer from the chimney and draught. Additionally, you must visually inspect the chimney pipe at least once every six months to ensure that it serves the full designated period of time.

There shouldn’t be any signs of rust, cracking, burning, or combustion on the metal.

The existence of one of these flaws is a warning sign that the damaged area has to be replaced right away because smoke will enter the space through the gaps and, at the very least, harm occupants’ health. Furthermore, the chimney’s metal may become weak due to burning and cracking in certain areas, and eventually the entire pipe may just collapse.

Ways to care for the chimney

Ash and soot build up on the inside surface of a wood stove chimney, just like in any other chimney. Such a thick layer of plaque impedes normal smoke evacuation, increases draft, and weighs down the entire structure. The chimney pipe should be cleared of accumulated soot at least once a year. However, mechanical cleaning techniques are ineffective on mobile construction because it lacks the structural integrity of stationary stoves or fireplace flues. It is in fact preferable to forgo using a metal brush for cleaning, especially when it comes to the core.

Methods for cleaning the chimney

Here, traditional cleaning techniques are quite helpful. For example, you can use potato skins to clean the chimney. It is strictly forbidden to use the original, risky method of raising the temperature to the point where the soot burns and flies out. High temperatures can easily spark a fire in addition to accelerating the wear and tear of thin metal. When burning firewood, it is best to apply chemical preparations to the chimney to maintain its condition. Although the ingredients in these preparations are safe for humans, they pose a serious risk to soot.

The best choice for people in need of a convenient and portable stove is the burzhuyka. Furthermore, the single issue—building a chimney—has been resolved! It turns out that building a high-quality and effective chimney for a bourzhuika is not that difficult; all that is required is adherence to technology. Only occasional, regular care is needed for the finished chimney, which will pay off years of hard work!

Types

One can create unique spark-extinguishing structures in a range of designs that vary in size and shape. The most popular spark arrester design variations are as follows:

• protective casing, made on the basis of a fine mesh;
• a special shaped hood that acts as a spark suppressor and a deflector (a device that changes the direction of flow) at the same time.

Spark arrestors must be made to minimize the effect of draught reduction in the chimney because they partially impede the free movement of combustion products.

The known types of structures (such as a spark arrestor for a birch stove) are designed to ensure that the crushing of sparks does not result in a slowdown of the smoke flow in accordance with this requirement.

Their measurements are rigorously standardized for this reason, and the deflector’s or casing’s diameter in this instance may range from 80 to 550 mm, depending on the developed draft. The latter’s dimensions directly determine the pipe canopy’s structural size.

A purchased item that performs the dual roles of spark arrestor and deflector simultaneously (two in one) and comes in a range of designs is especially intriguing.

Causes of excessive heating of the chimney pipe

It frequently occurs that the chimney pipe reaches extremely high temperatures.

There is risk involved because there is a multiplicity of increased fire risk!

The first step in minimizing it is to insulate any nearby combustible materials.

The chimney pipe is then surrounded by insulation.

It has to be done in a required manner because you run daily risk to your life and health if there isn’t a high-quality thermal insulation layer surrounding the chimney.

The thermal insulation layer is probably the reason why the bath is warming up as well. It might need to be replaced with a newer model because it has worn out over time. In the event that a newly constructed sandwich overheats, a manufacturer defect is not ruled out. It is also necessary to disassemble this product and replace the insulating layer.

Thus, let us examine the primary reasons behind the issue:

• The chimney is made of a single-wall metal pipe without heat insulator, which is completely unacceptable. It is mandatory to replace single-layer chimney sections with sandwich pipes, or simply supplement them with an insulating layer;
• Possible errors in the design of sandwich pipe. It should be remembered that this design is installed in such a way that the condensate formed inside can not get to the outer surface of the chimney.

Chimney design options

It can be challenging to arrange a burzhuykuka’s proper chimney, and this is entirely due to people’s ignorance of the customs and procedures. In all, three design variations are meant by builders. The diameter of the chimney for a burzhuyka, the chimney’s device, and the way the wall or roof is led out to the street should all be taken into consideration when making this decision.

1. When the chimney is led through the ceiling or the roof, it is better to use an energy-saving design, especially this fact is important for the chimney of a birch stove for a garage. The design assumes the transfer of heat energy, including from the pipe itself, which rises vertically. For such a scheme, it is better to initially provide adequate fire protection.
2. In cases when the pipe is supposed to be taken out 20-30 centimeters. up to the ceiling, another source of heat is created. This is the responsibility of the section of the chimney that is located in the room. In the garage with their own hands when arranging such a system, it is necessary to take care of the absence of any structures on the side of the building.
3. There are cases when the pipe is led "straight" out of the wall opposite the heater. In this case, it is necessary to calculate the dimensions separately, and take into account the slopes and turns. In addition, in this case, the design of the chimney requires calculation of the height outside the building, the possibility of insulation and other issues. In this design there is one main advantage, which is able to overshadow all other types of diverters – it is high fire safety. But, in this case, the additional heat that would come from the chimney stove is lost.

Different designs for chimneys

Furthermore, the device may vary based on the precise location of the burner stove installation. As an illustration, there are two choices:

In the first instance, all that is necessary for installation is to select the appropriate pipe diameter and location. Serious knowledge and expertise are not required.

When installing something outside, keep in mind that proper operation necessitates considering a crucial component like height. A person’s height should not be exceeded by the height of the stove or the chimney.

Depending on which of the three installation types is selected, there will be differences in the installation inside the room. Remember to consider the room’s specific features, its measurements, and fire safety.

Racks

The posts are another crucial element that let you combine all the parts into a single structure. They can be constructed out of sheet steel or metal bars. The rack measures 15 mm in width. They are constructed in three layers for added strength. When cutting the steel blank, this needs to be considered.

The design will determine the length of the blank, but don’t forget to allow for the possibility of fastening: make space for one or two rivets on each side of the rack.

Advice: To strengthen the construction, it is preferable to position the posts at an angle to the vertical (from the "glass" to the "umbrella").

Once every component is constructed, move on to the spark damper assembly.

• To the spigot or "cup" vertically fasten the posts. You will need 1 or 2 rivets for this operation.
• The mesh cylinder is inserted between the posts. The cylinder must enter the "cup" with a stop on the rivet flats. It should be of such height that in the fully assembled construction it will be pushed into the cone of the "umbrella".
• If the uprights are mounted vertically, a metal mesh can be attached to the uprights to provide greater strength. As fasteners use 1 rivet for each post.
• The "umbrella" is installed. The mounting sections of the struts are bent so that they lie tightly on the inside of the cone. Drill through holes, install the rivets and finally fix them.

The installation is finished. There is no longer a need to worry about sparks shooting out of the chimney after attaching the gadget.

Chimney with a spark arrestor and a protective plate

If at all possible, weld rather than rivet when assembling. A bolgar must be used to clean the welding joints. Studying is advised in order to advance in self-manufacturing.

Advice: If the materials on your roof are easily combustible, wrap the stove pipe in a metal plate that will catch sparks that can burst through the grid.

A spark arrestor used as a piece of art

A spark arrestor can effectively prevent fires in both your home and your property. It can be made into a fascinating decorative element if desired. For instance, you could construct a chimney using gutters, a weather vane, and other metallic facade components in the same style.

Design features and principle of operation

Spark dampers come in a variety of varieties. Their external design, manufacturing material, and dimensions are different. However, their mode of operation is identical.

Types of spark arrestors along with a typical dimensions table

Spark arrestors can be made with a single mesh, are easier to make and less expensive than models with a deflector (chimney), but the one with the "umbrella" is more useful.

Your preference and the shape of the chimney where the spark arrestor is to be installed will both influence the shape and some features.

The construction’s primary components are:

• body ("cup"), which is attached to the chimney;
• mesh cylinder (the main element of the construction);
• deflector umbrella.

How does the apparatus operate? When smoke exits the chimney through the channels, it must change its course to get through a metal mesh after coming across an obstruction known as a "umbrella." The mesh "breaks" any sparks that may be present in the combustion products into tiny, non-dangerous sparks, putting an end to them.

A spark arrestor is a necessary component of strong draft straight chimneys. Any design of chimney won’t need this kind of protection.

We advise learning how to construct a canopy on your own.

Installing a spark catcher has additional benefits, such as shielding the chimney from other animals, trash, rain, and snow, and preventing birds from entering it to build nests.

Readers find these materials useful:

• Installation of ceramic chimney with your own hands, tips and recommendations

Materials to be used

Given that metal burners are under consideration, steel-insulated pipes should be used to organize the removal of combustion products. Brick chimneys are inappropriate for these kinds of stoves because of how quickly soot builds up on the rough walls and how freezing condensate damages the masonry.

It is advised that a metal stove’s chimney be constructed of the following materials:

• the section of the gas duct connected to the burzhuika inside the room – from a stainless steel pipe with a wall thickness of at least 0,8 mm;
• passage through walls and ceilings, the street part is made of insulated sandwich pipes;
• It is allowed to make a chimney with their own hands from black thin-walled pipes with subsequent insulation.

Citation. Three layers make up a modular sandwich chimney: an internal stainless steel pipe, heat insulation made of basalt fiber, and galvanized cladding, which is an expensive variant of the external stainless steel cladding. Sandwich assembly and installation are covered in great detail.

It will be necessary to hermetically weld the gas duct sections if black metal pipes with thin walls (3–4 mm) are used. Purchase slabs of basalt fiber with the following specifications to use as insulation:

• density – not less than 80 kg/m³;
• maximum operating temperature – 600 ° C;
• thickness – not less than 40 mm.

Insulation is required for regular iron pipe.

The following steps are taken in the calculation and material selection for the bourzhuika’s chimney:

1. The minimum diameter of the duct is equal to the cross-section of the branch pipe coming out of the heater.
2. Calculating the diameter for homemade heaters: the volume of the combustion chamber, expressed in liters, is multiplied by a factor of 2.7, but not less than Ø100 mm.
3. The height of the pipe is taken equal to 5 m, counting from the grate grate heater.
4. If the header falls in the leeward zone of the roof, the gas duct is extended to the height shown in the diagram.
5. The length of the chimney is determined taking into account all the turns and bypasses of the roof overhang.

In order to lay in the dacha through a combustible wall or ceiling, passage units—fireproof sections—must be constructed. You will need fire-resistant rock wool insulation and 0.8–1 mm thick galvanized steel.

Installation of a chimney with your own hands

It is rare to find someone who will hire laborers to install a chimney for a wood-burning stove. Everyone is an expert in this situation, but very few consider the need for an airtight, fireproof design that also has a good draft to prevent carbon monoxide gas suffocation. Few people are skilled in building a burzhuika’s chimney. In this context, the following five fundamental guidelines should be followed when fabricating and installing a chimney for a burzhuyka by hand:

1. observance of fire safety. All places of adjoining or contact of the chimney with other surfaces, treat with fireproof mixtures and install fireproof insulation;
2. assemble the pipe from 2 or 3 parts, rather than a full-metal one. This is done in case of burnout or disassembly to facilitate replacement of obsolete elements;
3. When installing through a wall, make accurate measurements and order corner elements from a professional service. It is impossible to make such elements independently. Therefore, it is better not to take risks;
4. Install a straight chimney through the ceiling. This design is most applicable to a garage or workshop, where there is practically no attic room;
5. The chimney should be fixed only with clamps, no welded joints, as the chimney is constantly changing temperature and there is a constant expansion and contraction of the metal, from which the welded joint can burst, especially in severe cold weather.

After creating a drawing that includes the bourzhuika’s chimney calculation, get the parts ready. Here’s what you’ll need:

• metal pipes, preferably thick-walled, the necessary length, diameter according to the furnace opening or calculations;
• a tee with a plug, which is placed on the free branch and performs the function of revision;
• a cap to be installed at the end of the chimney;
• heat-resistant sealant, asbestos cord and sheet for thermal insulation;
• bitumen and sandpit.

The most straightforward chimney outlet—one that exits directly through the roof without any bends or elbows—is selected for self-installation.

Starting with the holes, the assembly of the structure is done from both sides; the most important thing is to not miss them. The pipe joints should be connected 30 centimeters from the floor passage point; it is best to do this in the attic to ensure that, in the event of a malfunction, smoke does not enter the room.

With the stove at the bottom, we begin. Because the first half-meter is the highest temperature area that is most prone to burnout, it is best to use a cast iron piece or thick-walled pipe in this section. After making a hole in the ceiling, we install the portion that leads outside.

It is important to keep in mind that the pipe is heated nearly its whole length when planning passageways in the ceiling, wall, and roof. As a result, sandboxes are placed inside wooden dividers that are custom-made to fit the chimney’s diameter and filled with fire-resistant material. You are able to create such an element. A 15-20 centimeter hole is drilled in the slab, slightly bigger than the pipe’s diameter. Attached to the interior is an asbestos sheet, which is covered by a stainless steel sheet with a prefabricated through cup for the chimney. The space surrounding the ceiling-mounted pipe is entirely encased in fireproof material following installation.

Next, lower the chimney by means of the roof. To accomplish this, place a piece of tin on the roof surface with a hole that is 3–4 cm larger in diameter, and then lower the pipe through it to the connection point. The intersections of the bitumen-rich tin and roofing, as well as the area around the heat-resistant sealant pipe, are lubricated extensively. To stop atmospheric precipitation from entering the space, these precautions are required.

The chimney’s outer end is covered with a cap that serves as a spark arrestor, deflector, and weather protection. The pipe should be at least 10 centimeters above the ridge level. Every chimney that passes through an obstruction needs to have a layer of thermal insulation on it.

The chimney is ready, but it needs to be flooded and the tightness and draught checked before it is fixed in its entirety. If none of them works, the pipe needs to be fixed after the cause is removed. Installing wire stretchers that are firmly fastened is required if the chimney’s exterior turns out to be extremely high. This will prevent the pipe from breaking in the event of strong winds or snowfall from the roof. The topic of how to build a burzhuyku’s chimney is now closed.

Recommendations for installation

Draw a blueprint of the chimney and label all the sections’ measurements before acquiring any materials. This will make it simpler to select the pipes that are the right length. Remember to purchase joint sealants such as stove sealant and asbestos cord, and don’t forget about fasteners like brackets and clamps.

Citation. Furnace sealants have a black color and are intended to withstand temperatures up to 1500°C. Red vinegar-scented products are not meant for use on gas pipe joints; instead, they are meant for use on automobiles.

How to construct attached chimneys bourzhueka correctly:

1. Start with punching (cutting) a through hole. In a brick wall, its diameter is equal to the outside size of the insulated chimney. A square opening is cut in the wooden one, whose dimensions are 760 mm larger than the live section of the duct (38 cm to each side).
2. Assemble the vertical section by installing a tee and condensate collector opposite the finished opening. Wall brackets and clamps are placed at a spacing of 1.5-2 meters, the joints are treated with sealant.
3. Install the stove at a distance of at least 50 cm from combustible structures and connect a horizontal section of single-wall pipe. Also move it away from combustible surfaces by 500 mm or protect the wood with a sheet of iron, a slab of mineralite and so on.
4. Connect the inner section to the outer section. In a brick wall, the pipe is passed through a steel sleeve with a seal, in a wooden one it is framed with roofing iron with stone wool inside. Do not allow the joint to be in the thickness of the wall.

Vital. Non-combustible basalt heat insulation is required to be installed on the chimney pipe that enters the wall or ceiling.

Using a sandwich is the best choice.

In a similar manner, the inner chimney is laid through the ceiling. The distinction is that a special chimney liner (master-flush) seals the opening through the roof, and the condensate collector is housed inside the room.

Due to the peculiarities of how low-efficiency bourzhukes operate, the overall height of the pipe that is led above a single-story garage can be lowered to 3.5–4 meters. Since there are no hills or ridges and enough natural draught is produced by the flue gases’ high temperature, there is no wind chill zone. Watch the video to see how this is applied in the garage:

A few important points

3–5 mm should be the mesh size. Use of too-small cells is not advised because the gases need to flow through freely.

One significant drawback of the design is that the mesh cylinder gets occasionally clogged with dust and soot. If firewood with a high tar content is used, this cannot be avoided.

Frequent cleaning of the grid is required. This will prevent the effect of a back draft.

Remember to make a sketch. Make all the required measurements as precisely as you can in order to accomplish this.

Take extra care with this work. The sketch will assist you in figuring out how much material is needed and the precise measurements of the parts you’ll need to make in order to assemble a sturdy and visually appealing construction.

Make a full-size model of the construction out of dense cardboard if you have no prior experience with such tasks. All the dimensions will become clear as a result, and some of the layout will serve as great templates for making your spark arrestor.

Prepare stainless steel, galvanized steel, or sheet steel with a thickness of 0.6 to 1 mm. Based on the sketch’s dimensions, calculate the sheet’s size. A wire mesh that is galvanized or stainless and has a mesh size of 3 to 5 mm is also required.

The following publications will perfectly complement this material:

• Overview of chimneys for stoves made of various materials

Stove design

The device is impressive in its simplicity, manufacturing speed, and material availability. Even with only rudimentary welding machine knowledge, you could construct it in a matter of hours by hand.

The most common shape for the bourzhuyka’s body is a metal container, either square or round, supported by pillars. This is because the stove is constructed from pieces of pipe with the right diameter. Another good barrel is made of steel. A minimum of 5 mm of galvanized steel is used to make rectangular boxes.

The components of the stove are as follows:

• firebox – the working area of the stove, occupies most of the body;
• grate – separates the firebox and ash pan, firewood, peat, pellets are placed on the grate;
• ash pan – its role can be performed by the bottom of the structure, in which case the ash will have to be raked out with a poker. You can make a drawer in which the ash will accumulate, it is easier to clean;
• chimney – a channel for the output of combustion products.

A cooking surface can be added to a rectangular bubbler by creating cooking holes on the body’s horizontal portion. The stove in the picture is made of galvanized steel.

Additional variant of arrangement of a chimney for a burzhuyka

To construct the chimney according to the suggested version of its layout, the following needs to be considered:

• 110 x4 hoses – 230 rubles. each;
• bends x3 – 215 rubles. each;
• flaps – 315 rubles.;
• spark arrestor – 150 rubles.;
• basalt cardboard – 130 rubles. per sheet;
• non-combustible board – 700 rubles. per sheet;
• sandbox – 700 rubles.;
• building expanded clay – 170 rubles. for 40 liters.

In this instance, the tasks are in the following order:

1. A kerf is made.
2. The sandbox is installed.
3. A heat insulator in the form of basalt cardboard is installed, which is cut to the required size.
4. The sandbox tap is fixed and expanded clay is poured in.
5. Sleeves are assembled and fastened with a 1.5-millimeter sheet of iron.

Chimney for bourzhuyka with their own hands

The chimney device will only require choosing an appropriate pipe section in terms of diameter and height if the firebox is to be installed outside. Here, the chimney’s primary purpose is to direct smoke above human height, where it won’t cause discomfort.

It will be a little more challenging to make the chimney if the stove is placed in a closed space. It is required to make arrangements for a way through the wall or roof and to guarantee the appropriate degree of fire safety. Nonetheless, iron pipe work is not particularly tough, so even a novice craftsman can handle the assignment.

How to make a scheme of the chimney

Once the location of the stove installation and the chimney’s alternate path have been established, a plan must be created that includes all of the structural components and their precise spacing. This plan outlines how the construction store’s experts will assist you in choosing the appropriate materials.

The thickness of the chimney pipes must also be decided upon during the preparatory phase. A straightforward formula can be used to determine this: the pipe’s diameter should be roughly 2.7 times the stove’s combustion chamber’s volume (measured in liters). That being said, 50 x 2.7 = 135 mm pipes are ideal for a standard 50-liter burzhuyka. Smaller diameter pipes will just not be able to create the required draught.

This is of great importance! The chimney must be foldable in order to replace burned-out sections quickly and easily. Joints in the structure should be placed close to walls and floors for convenience, but no closer than 300 mm, and definitely not inside.

There are a few guidelines to follow when determining the chimney’s height above the roof:

• If the chimney is located closer than 50 cm from the ridge, it must also be approximately 50 cm higher than the ridge level.
• If the chimney is 150-300 cm away from the ridge, it can be installed at the same level as the ridge.
• At a distance of more than 300 cm, the upper point of the pipe may coincide with the level of the ridge, or be slightly below its level.

These days, modern bourzhukes are frequently modified with a few extra features that improve their safety and energy efficiency. This could be a stopper to keep smoke out of the chimney, a system that recycles the gases released during combustion, a damper to control the intensity of combustion, etc. Making sure the chimney is not overheated requires doing this. ο.

Proper installation of the chimney

You can start the installation process once the chimney’s design is completed and the required materials—such as asbestos cord and heat-resistant sealant—are ordered and delivered.

• First of all, it is necessary to prepare the base, as well as cover the wall behind the stove and pipe heat-resistant material. For these purposes, sheets of asbestos or foil will work well.
• Further, in accordance with the scheme, in the ceiling, roof or wall are made through holes of suitable diameter. For wooden ceilings can be made or purchased special boxes, with a hole diameter of 3-5 mm larger than the diameter of the chimney pipes.
• Burzhuyka is installed on the base, and the lower section of the pipe is put on its spigot. The place of contact is sealed with heat-resistant material and securely fixed with a clamp.
• Depending on the chosen scheme, further installed elbow or segment of the chimney, going to the attic.

If the chimney is installed through a wall, an elbow that fixes it to a vertical position should be installed on the horizontal spigot that exits the wall. The pipe is fastened to the corners or brackets on the exterior of the wall.

Both sides of the roof’s opening are framed.

On the inside is a metal plate with a matching round or oval hole (the shape varies depending on how steep the slope is). Waterproofing the exterior is essential.

With the aid of a unique elastic block that can be firmly fixed with sealant on any surface, including ribbed slate or ondulin, this task is simple and quick.

It is essential to apply sealant to every joint and seam after the chimney installation is finished. Be cautious when selecting a sealant; only types made to withstand high temperatures are appropriate. Other varieties will just dry out or melt when the heat from the bubble stove gets to them.

The last phase will involve conducting the system’s final testing. The chimney is completely inspected and the stove is filled with water. It is safe to use the built-in heating system if there are no smoke traces.

Note: The metal fungus attached to the top of the chimney will be shielded from the infiltration of leaves, snow, or rain into the chimney stove.

Why smoke

If the sauna stove starts smoking when you first use it, it could be a direct result of improper installation. It is highly advised that you seek assistance from a specialist as it will be very challenging to identify and resolve the issue on your own.

There are additional explanations for the bathhouse stove’s smoking. Among them are:

1. In the first place, the exit of smoke from the chimney can be hindered by strong winds. In most cases, this is due to the fact that the pipe is slightly below the ridge. You can solve the problem by making the pipe longer, or install a protective hood;
2. Damage to the roof can also be the answer to the question – why does the iron sauna stove smoke?. The reason for this is that if there is an attic gas duct, moisture gets into it, which seeps through damaged roofing areas. This problem can only be eliminated by repairing these areas;
3. Iron stove in the sauna smokes most often due to an excessively dirty chimney or foreign objects in it. Detecting this problem is easy, as a clear sign will be a bad draft in the sauna stove. For example, very often birds nest in chimney pipes, and also garbage and branches from nearby trees can fall into an unprotected chimney. This problem is solved quite simply, you just need to clean the chimney from soot, soot and foreign objects. As a tool it is best to use a special flexible brush with a nylon pile;
4. Among other things, smoke can be caused by a too large blowhole. This is explained by the large amount of cold air entering the opening, which subsequently heats up and pushes the smoke outside.

What should I do about the sauna’s smoke stove? This is a significant issue that is less expensive and easier to avoid than to resolve.

Take note! It is crucial to design the stove and chimney correctly to ensure that you do not have to deal with smoke in the future.

Strong air currents that form above the roof and obstruct the smoke from the chimney from fully exiting cause problems.

For this reason, the following elements need to be considered during the design phase:

1. If the chimney is 1.5 meters from the ridge, its height should be 50 cm higher than the top of the roof;
2. If the chimney is located at a distance of 1.5 to 3 meters, then it is allowed to install a pipe whose height is equal to the level of the ridge;
3. If the chimney is located at a fairly weighty distance, which exceeds 3 meters, then the pipe should not be lower than an angle of ten degrees from the ridge.

Protecting the wall from overheating

The surface temperature of the sauna stove can rise to 400 degrees or more while it is in use.

Additionally, as it heats the room’s walls—especially the ones near it—it releases infrared radiation.

If the walls’ finishing is made of wood, it may char and catch fire due to constant overheating.

Special fireproofing compositions are used to stop this, and for increased dependability, a protective screen for the bathhouse stove should be installed. The most often used materials in its production are:

1. Metal. Insulation of the walls in the sauna from the stove is most often made by means of a metal screen. These are mostly frontal or side mounted. Metal screens significantly reduce the temperature impact on the walls;
2. Brick. Brick protective screens allow both to reduce radiation from the stove in the bath, and protect the walls from prolonged exposure to high temperatures. Brick for sauna stoves has long been used because it takes a long time to heat up, then gives off soft heat to the room, taking a long time to cool down;
3. Stainless steel sheets. This material is used to cover the stove and the surrounding elements. If a sheet of stainless steel is carefully polished, its mirror-like surface will reflect harmful infrared radiation.

Spark arrestor elements for the stove

The primary unique feature of the birch stove spark arrestor is that certain stoves have an unusual form and their chimney is integrated into the wall or ceiling, which adds complexity without altering the fundamental design system.

A spark arrestor needs to have a body, a lid, and a tin mesh.

The structures of almost all tin spark-catching devices include the following components:

1. The body – the widest structure, which usually contains a truncated cone for the primary direction of the draft.
2. Tin mesh, which dampens sparks that fly from the chimney.
3. Cover or cap – most often a curved metal pancake on the very top to deflect the direction of the draft.
4. In some models you can find a tin elbow – a curved pipe, but it plays a rather indirect role.

It is evident that the spark arrestor is just as crucial to stove-burzhuyka equipment as it is to traditional stoves. Nevertheless, a common drawback to using it is that a lot of compact burners have a short pipe, which means that smoke and gases will still spread through it even though sparks cannot reach the surfaces inside the room.

Principles of chimney construction

The installation of the chimney will only be complicated if the burzhuyka is placed outside the room and the pipe needs to be found that fits into the designated hole. In this instance, the chimney is merely necessary to make sure the smoke from the device is released above human height and does not obstruct it.

In the event that the burner is not placed outside, the chimney will need to be dealt with; however, since metal pipes have a simpler design, laypeople can handle the task of installing a chimney on the burner can.

The chimney arrangement of horizontally and vertically elongated apparatuses is slightly different. The first one features a "smoke bag" that traps exhaust gases and causes them to radiate more heat into the bourgeoisie’s walls.

Since a vertical chimney device does not have an extra chamber, the "knee" design of chimneys with curved channels is to blame for the waste gas flow slowdown.

By the way, here’s where you have an option: buy pre-made elbows, tees, and pipes for installation, or make them yourself out of sheet metal. You can choose whatever you want, but the only people who should bother with sheets are those who are building a custom stove.

In order to save costs, they occasionally use regular "galvanized" steel with a wall thickness of at least 0.6 mm in place of stainless steel.

However, this option is generally not recommended as it will require significant tinsmithing skills in addition to specialized tools. Otherwise, smoke will unavoidably seep in, making it extremely difficult to achieve tight joints.

Professional tinsmiths, incidentally, also construct sandwiches. Within them, a smaller diameter pipe is wrapped in mineral wool and topped with a larger diameter pipe.

Chimney installation

Making a burzhuyka yourself is, as we’ve already established, a very difficult task, and assembling it will demand a great deal more time and energy if we’re discussing a homemade pipe. The installation of your burzhuyka’s chimney does not differ significantly in terms of technology, whether it is installed through the wall or the ceiling. You decide how the chimney stove will be installed—through the wall, through the roof, or through both—measure the length, then start the assembly process.

The schematic illustrates how to install the chimney correctly.

• The bottom element of the channel is attached to the bun, first of all.
• On the bottom "wreath" in turn, all other elements, up to the ceiling, are already attached afterwards. Use jointing elbows, do not forget to treat them with sealant to fix reliably and tightly.
• In the ceiling or wall, it is not important here, a hole is made, taking into account the diameter of the pipe and the size of the insulating material. Do not forget about it, because the separation of the pipe and slabs is an important point, the temperature in the channel itself can exceed 500 degrees, which entails certain fire risks.
• After preparing the hole, a special "glass" is inserted into it, through which the pipe of the burner will pass in the future. The size of the "cup" should be elevated by 10 cm. from the roof.
• Thermal insulation will be laid on both sides, from the "glass", thus forming a characteristic "saucer". Use mineral wool in combination with bitumen.
• On top of the headband, above the roof is installed "fungus". It will help to get rid of the clogging of the pipe over time, as well as improve the quality of the channel itself.
• After all the assembly, it is desirable to once again lubricate all the seams and joints with sealant (be sure to use only fire-resistant). Thus, you will save yourself from getting smoke into the room.
• When the sealant is dry, all circuits are connected, you can start the furnace, check its operation, the main thing is not to get smoke into the room.

Particularly in traditional setups like a burzhuika, the chimney is an essential component of efficient and safe operation when it comes to heating and insulation for your home. When building a chimney for a burzhuika, safety precautions like smoke buildup and fires must be taken into consideration. Here are some crucial pointers to help you construct a chimney for your burzhuika efficiently, from selecting the appropriate materials to using the right installation methods. Understanding the fundamentals of airflow, choosing suitable materials, and adhering to safety regulations will help you enjoy a warm and comfortable home while reducing the risks that come with poorly built chimneys.

Recommendations spark arrestor on the chimney of the bathhouse with their own hands

As was previously mentioned, it is possible to make the exhaust pipe independently with a closed system to remove glowing particles. Naturally, the actual flame arrester model can play a special role in this, as each of its various forms has advantages and disadvantages.

A straightforward metal cone with an oblong base is a typical stove pipe spark arrestor variation.

The stove pipe’s primary spark arrestor types are as follows:

1. The most typical variant is a solid metal cone with an oblong base fastened to it. Such a model looks like a barrel with a cap on top with holes cut out for the draft.
2. Mesh form. In essence, it is simply a metal mesh stretched over the pipe. A rather atypical type of flame arrestor for the sauna, which, despite its many advantages, has a number of disadvantages. The main one is the constant accumulation and clogging of holes with soot.
3. Fungus. This is the name of one of the most effective and mostly durable spark arrestors, built into bath chimneys. Its structure allows the air flow to be refracted so that all hot elements fall on the stretched stainless steel mesh, on which all sparks are extinguished.

The fungus is the ideal and most advantageous flame thrower for maximum safety, but cultivating it is a laborious and delicate process.

How to paint iron

Rusting is a problem that bathhouse owners deal with every day.

Naturally, stainless steel is the ideal material to use for tanks and other furnace components, but in the event that this is not possible, different paint materials will be used.

So, what color should I paint the bathroom stove? The best option is to use silicon-organic enamel that can withstand heat.

Certain types of it can tolerate temperatures as high as 600–700 degrees Celsius.

Moisture and abrupt temperature changes have no detrimental effects on heat-resistant organosilicon enamel.

Thus, heat-resistant organosilicon enamel will be a very helpful helper if you wish to prevent corrosion on the stove in your sauna!

Making a chimney

Building a burzhuyka’s pipe by hand is not at all difficult, nor is building the furnace itself. One of the key components of a birch stove is the chimney. The brick chimney is inappropriate for this kind of furnace because it is portable. But the chimney can also be made of brick if you plan to build a brick screen for a bourzhuika by hand. However, this falls into the exceptions category. But generally speaking, either metal or asbestos-cement pipe are the two most common options.

One argument in favor of selecting a metal pipe is that it is a lightweight, practical material for use. Owing to thermal constraints, the asbestos cement pipe can only be installed in the chimney’s upper section because the material can tolerate temperatures of up to 300 degrees Celsius. The smoke in the upper section of the chimney simply cools to the necessary temperature.

When building a burzhuika’s chimney by hand, you have to consider two things: first, the chimney needs to be compact, and second, it needs to be able to collapse. Generally speaking, the chimney should consist of two components connected in the attic or interroof space, and it should be led through the roof and out of the room via the shortest path. This requirement should be met since metal structures eventually burn out and need to be replaced or repaired; it is simpler to do this with a section of the device rather than to remove the chimney as a whole.

Therefore, to build a chimney by hand, you will require:

• metal pipes with a diameter of 16 cm., which will be the base of the chimney;
• tee of the same diameter, on one branch equipped with a plug (may be needed to connect the branch pipe);
• several elbows for joints: one 10×12 cm., others – 16×120 cm. (for easy laying and unfolding of the chimney);
• the so-called "mushroom" measuring 20 cm., used as a protective cover for the end of the flue pipe;
• sealant or asbestos cord for binding the joints;
• ;
• bituminous resin.

If you don’t have a metal chimney, you can make one by bending a metal sheet and using a welding machine to secure it. You will need a Bulgarian, pliers, a tape measure, a hammer, and a mallet for this process. If the sheet is extremely thin, it can be cut with specialized scissors.

Measure the pipe fragments’ distance (it’s best to estimate the diameter and dimensions beforehand or use ready-made drawings), then cut off the necessary sections. Consider the diameters of the various chimney components when "folding" a metal sheet.

Cleaning and repair of the chimney

The stove’s long-term, safe, and cost-effective operation depends on more than just the chimney pipe being installed correctly.

It’s critical to take prompt action to clean the chimney and, if required, replace any damaged components.

Maintenance requirements

Among the precautions are routinely carrying out the following chimney maintenance tasks:

1. Annual visual inspection of the chimney. It will allow to identify rust centers and take timely measures to treat the surface and protect it from corrosion. Depending on the degree of damage, the chimney element with defects should be restored or replaced.
2. Cleaning the inside of the chimney from accumulated deposits. The peculiarities of the design make it difficult to use traditional weights and a cleaning rod for mechanical removal of soot. At least twice a year use special chemical compositions that remove soot when burning together with wood. Periodic burning of aspen logs helps to remove soot buildup in the chimney.

Timely maintenance will guarantee safe operation and keep combustion products from unintentionally entering the space.

Recommendations for repair

By fixing the chimney, major issues can be avoided. It is possible for a chimney to malfunction even if it has been designed correctly and maintained on time.

Chimneys made of metal are very dependable. Nevertheless, individual elements develop cracks and burns over time of use.

Since a burnt-out chimney poses a major risk, the damaged portion needs to be replaced right away.

Replacing damaged components on time is the fundamental component of repair. It is sufficient to remove the damaged section of the chimney and replace it with a new one, without having to disassemble the chimney entirely. Keep in mind that since the pipe is made up of separate modules, maintaining the integrity of the system requires caution during the repair process. Seal the joints after replacing the damaged component.

Video: How to clean a chimney in the garage

Prompt maintenance will increase the draft, prevent dangerous gases from building up within the space, and prolong the chimney’s lifespan. The repairs can be completed without the need to hire experts. Completing the task on your own is simple.

Taking a responsible approach to installing a chimney for a firebox will improve operation efficiency, lower fuel consumption, and guarantee the heating device is operated safely. A hand-made chimney won’t give you any trouble while it’s operating.

It is easy to make sure of this if you follow the recommendations, adhere to the technology and emphasize the main attention to safety issues when performing the work.

Purpose of the chimney in a bubbler stove

Despite its seeming simplicity, a birch stove’s chimney is a responsible apparatus that completes two important tasks:

1. Provides removal of combustion products of fuel, the temperature of which can be from 600 to 950 ºC. A modern chimney stove with a chimney provides efficient heating of the room and harmoniously fits into the interior
2. Provides heating of the room, significantly heated under the influence of the exhaust gases. The efficiency of heat transfer depends on the location of the stove, shape and length of the chimney.

A well-built and installed chimney lengthens the time that flue gas is extracted from the stove, increasing its efficiency. Making a flue channel with lots of curved elbows is how this is accomplished.

Proper manufacture and installation of the chimney receive extra attention due to the gravity of the tasks it performs.

Ways of laying chimney pipes

There are two traditional methods for installing chimneys for bourgeois stoves:

1. Taking the horizontal section from the stove to the street and connecting it to a vertical duct attached to the wall of the building.
2. The vertical gas duct rises directly from the stove, crossing the attic floor and roofing.

The diagrams make it clear that the second option is operationally more complex. The chimney traverses the building structure in both scenarios; it is an exterior wall or slab that has a condensate collector and tee. However, the second technique entails crossing the roof covering and sealing it. The roof is not affected by wall chimneys.

Important point. When installing a stove chimney in a wooden house, option 1 is a safer choice. The temperature of the gas duct will rise to 1000 °C if soot builds up and ignites on the pipe walls, posing a risk of smoldering and igniting wood. In this case, the street chimney will scorch the wall from the outside, which could ignite a fire from within.

Depending on the kind of heated building, preference is given to a less complicated and expensive solution:

• in a settled private house to punch a hole in the attic is inexpedient and expensive – it is better to lead the gas duct directly to the street;
• The chimney of the stove will inevitably pass through the upper rooms, so method No. 1 is preferable;
• Chimney for a bourzhuika in a garage with a flat roof can be laid in any way – through the roof or the wall;
• option number 2 is convenient to install in all types of buildings at the construction stage.

Consider the need to drain condensate and clean the chimney of soot when selecting an appropriate solution. For instance, if the building’s wall is near to a neighboring plot, there won’t be enough room to maintain the chimney channel.

Tip	Description
Use fire-resistant materials	Construct the chimney with materials like firebricks or metal that can withstand high temperatures.
Ensure proper ventilation	Provide adequate airflow to prevent smoke from backing up into the burzhuika.
Install a spark arrestor	Prevent sparks from escaping the chimney and potentially causing fires by adding a spark arrestor at the top.
Clean chimney regularly	Keep the chimney clear of debris and creosote buildup to maintain optimal airflow and reduce the risk of chimney fires.

Building a chimney for a burzhuika can improve this age-old heating technique’s effectiveness and safety considerably. You can make sure that your chimney efficiently removes smoke from your house while lowering the risk of fires and carbon monoxide buildup by adhering to a few important tips.

The materials you decide on for your chimney are crucial, first and foremost. Choose for sturdy, heat-resistant materials like metal, stone, or brick. These components ensure that your chimney stays strong and dependable by withstanding the intense heat generated by the burzhuika without deteriorating over time.

A well-designed chimney is also necessary. To ensure that there is a sufficient draft and to stop downdrafts that could force smoke back into your house, make sure your chimney extends above the roofline. Adding a chimney cap can also keep animals and debris out of the chimney, lowering the possibility of blockages and chimney fires.

Maintaining the best possible condition for your burzhuika chimney requires routine maintenance. Arrange for yearly cleanings and inspections to get rid of creosote accumulation, which can catch fire and start chimney fires. Throughout the heating season, keep an eye on the state of your chimney and fix any cracks or damage right away to stop smoke leaks.

In conclusion, when using your burzhuika, safety should always come first. To be informed of any potentially dangerous concentrations of this odorless gas, place carbon monoxide detectors close to your heating source and your bedrooms. When using the burzhuika, keep flammable objects a safe distance away from it and never leave it unattended.

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