Mini-bourzhuika with your own hands on wood and waste oil

Want to stay warm in your house without going over budget? Constructing a miniature Bourzhuika might be the answer you’ve been looking for. This easy-to-assemble heating system is economical and ecologically friendly because it runs on waste oil and wood.

For generations, people all over the world have relied on mini-bourzhuikas to heat small spaces effectively. This DIY heater works well for heating any kind of space, including a tiny house, workshop, garage, or cabin. Utilizing waste oil also allows you to reuse materials that would otherwise go to waste while cutting your heating expenses.

Even for individuals with little DIY experience, building a mini-bourzhuika yourself is actually fairly manageable, despite the intimidating sound. You can quickly assemble and operate your DIY heater with the correct instructions and supplies. You’ll be proud that you constructed it yourself in addition to enjoying the warmth it offers.

So what is the operation of a mini-bourzhuika? In essence, it’s a straightforward stove-like apparatus that generates heat by burning waste oil and wood. Even in the coldest of weather, the warmth produced makes the surroundings comfortable. Its straightforward yet effective design makes it a great choice for anyone searching for a cost-effective heating solution.

Materials Process
55-gallon drum, steel pipes, firebrick, stovepipe 1. Cut drum, install pipes. 2. Build firebox with firebrick. 3. Attach stovepipe for chimney.

Assembling a stove-burzhuyka from a pipe

In this instance, a welding machine is essential. A section of regular metal pipe will serve as the structure’s base. You can even use an old barrel. The assembly process will follow the plan that you are already familiar with. Using bars, create a grate and secure it to the body. Welding is used to make the connection. This bourzhuika will simultaneously have the furnace and blowpipe flaps. The model works well for cooking a wide range of foods as well as heating different rooms.

Building a stove burner out of a pipe

For this reason, burzhuyki are highly prized for their ability to heat a room quickly. However, concurrently there is also These stoves’ primary drawback is that they cool down just as quickly as they heat up after they stop burning. Metal essentially doesn’t retain heat.

Covering the homemade stove with fireproof bricks is sufficient to remove the aforementioned drawback.

It is sufficient to cover the homemade firebox with fireproof bricks in order to get rid of the aforementioned drawback. It retains heat well and gives it to the surrounding area for a considerable amount of time after the stove has finished operating. But, the stove will need to be stoked for a longer period of time than it would be without such a brick enclosure in order for the room to warm up. However, even this drawback is easily overcome. It’s sufficient to create a couple of ventilation openings in the brick screen. Bathhouses frequently use these kinds of systems.

The brick screen is positioned at a certain separation from the unit’s walls. This is a crucial point to remember. The size of the heated room and the stove itself should serve as your guides when determining an appropriate distance.

Enclosed by a brick screen, Burzhuyka will optimize fuel consumption and provide long-lasting, high-quality heating for the space.

Basic models of homemade bourzhukes

Based on its principles, the burzhuika is essentially the same as models of a unique solid-fuel device. This is a particular type of extremely basic fireplace stove. Additionally, some models come with unique sauna equipment and cooking burners.

The material used to make the stove
Often the stove is made of quality steel, but in some cases cast iron can be used. With different types of metal, often used made of natural stone elements. If cast iron is used, you should count on low parameters of heat capacity, it is very difficult to find it and it is not easy to cook it. Many people favor steel for this very reason; it is much easier to work with in the process. The thicker the material, the longer it will last. If it is planned to make a device for rare use, for example, for emergency situations with the heating system, then make it from simple iron, which has a thickness of 1 mm.
In the process of making the stove, all fittings may well be used factory-made. This applies to such elements as grates, the necessary doors, burners and bolts. Many craftsmen make them with their own hands, using steel.

Body type and composition You must use the technique of cutting a metal sheet if you wish to create a burzhuyku from drawings or pictures.

  • In addition, elements such as:
  • Weathering profiles;
  • Square-shaped tube;
  • Special corners;
  • Fittings;
  • Bar.

All of these are necessary to create a rectangular shape for the stove’s body. Owing to the existence of unique planes, the body will possess optimal ergonomic characteristics. To put it another way, the stove will be as easy to work on, clad, and stable as possible. Docking the stove with a range of components, objects, and structures will be easy and simple.

Boxes and other metal housing products can be used as a base. These are typically cylindrical objects, such as large-diameter pipes, cans, and gas cylinders.

During the manual stove manufacturing process, welding must be used.

The stove can be constructed with bolts, screws, and a drill bit if the metal is not very thick.Whatever the model selected, it is crucial to use drawings as the foundation for manufacturing, t.к. Even though it is relatively simple, there are specific instructions that must be followed in order to use the heating method.

Manufacturing with your own hands

The garage is filled with numerous stove variations that are fairly easy to build yourself using readily available materials.

The stove constructed out of a metal barrel is the most popular and well-known type of bourzhuika. This design, which is just a barrel with a door on legs, is incredibly basic. This type of stove works well for getting rid of waste. One of these stoves’ primary benefits is how easily they can be made. However, a burzhuyka like that has a number of drawbacks.

The barrel’s walls are thin, and since they can burn out quickly, it is unlikely that it will be able to function for very long. The bulky nature of this design, which will take up a lot of room, is another drawback.

From a metal bidon, you can construct a stove. Since the bidon already has a door that can be used without modification, there is even less work to be done here.

A gas cylinder is another common material used in stove-burner construction. These cylinders’ thick walls and respectable heat capacity contribute to the stove’s long lifespan. It should be kept in mind that before creating a bun stove, the gas cylinder needs to be ready in compliance with fire safety regulations.

It is crucial to keep in mind that a cylinder of this kind might still have explosive vapor residue in it.

It is highly advised to fill this container with water and leave it overnight for fire safety reasons.

When building this stove by hand from a cylinder, it is worthwhile to weld the lower blower system component to it and drill multiple holes in the cylinder that are connected to this system.

Let’s take a closer look at the steps involved in creating a stove out of a gas cylinder.

It’s crucial to abide by fire safety regulations when using a burner in the garage. As a result, picking the ideal location for the stove installation is essential. The garage corner, which is next to the walls and across from the room’s gate, is a great place to put the stove.

  • First stage. It is best to make a preliminary drawing and calculate the dimensions of the future product. But such a stove is quite simple to make, you can do without it. Next, it is worth making markings on the product. Using a felt-tip pen, the contours of the future doors, blowpipe and furnace system are drawn on the body of the cylinder. The compartment with the furnace will be located approximately in the center of the structure, and the under-blow to place at the bottom. The distance between them should not exceed 100 mm. Next, a solid line is drawn with a marker in the center between the doors, and then you should cut the cylinder along the marked line using a Bulgarian drill.

  • Second stage. It is necessary to take iron bars with a diameter of about 14-16 mm. Then weld a grate from them and weld the resulting construction to the bottom of the cylinder. And then the cylinder is welded back into one construction.
  • Third stage. It is necessary to cut out the holes for the furnace compartment and holes with a supercharger, and then hinges on them to attach the doors.

  • Fourth step. At the final stage it is worth to get busy with the installation of the chimney, as it is a very important part of the device of the stove. For these purposes, using a bolgar, you need to cut off the valve on the cylinder, welding in its place a long tube of metal with a diameter of 9-10 cm. The chimney itself should be led out of the garage through a hole in the wall or on the roof. Do not connect the chimney with the general exhaust of the room, because its draught may not be enough, ventilation will not cope, and carbon monoxide will penetrate into the garage room.

And these are all fairly basic instructions for building a stove-burner out of a standard gas cylinder with your own hands.

You can give the stove one more coat of heat-resistant compound after this project is finished.

Recommendations for use

It is crucial to abide by the burzhuika’s operating regulations if it is being used for cooking or heating. Along with fire safety, their fulfillment will contribute to extending and boosting its service life.

  • Before the first firing of the stove must necessarily check and make sure of the tightness of all connections, assemblies, immediately correct all defects to avoid the penetration of combustion products and carbon monoxide into the garage room.
  • For very specific reasons, the chimney must necessarily be led outside. Its part, located inside the garage space, must necessarily be airtight.
  • It is strictly forbidden to lead the chimney into the ventilation system. Even if the stove is installed in the basement, it must have a separate chimney.
  • Passages of the wall or ceiling of the chimney must be insulated with fireproof, non-flammable materials.

  • A box with sand and a fire extinguisher must necessarily be in the garage, in accordance with fire safety rules.
  • The stove is also used as a stove and for boiling water. A cooking surface with burners (usually made of a cast-iron stove) or a tank for heating water is installed on it.
  • Burzhuyka stove heats up quickly, but also cools down quickly. This disadvantage can be partially compensated for by a brick screen that stores heat and returns it to the room as it cools down after the stove is extinguished.

Direct contact between the screen and the firebox is not permitted. At least 10 centimeters should separate them.

  • Usually, the brick screen has a significant weight, so, most likely, it will need its own foundation. Let"s consider the stages of its manufacture.
  • Dig a hole about 50 cm deep.
  • The bottom of the pit is covered with a layer of sand (average consumption of sand 3-4 buckets), tamped down.
  • The next layer is 10-15 cm of crushed stone, which is also tamped down.
  • The laid layers are leveled, then filled with a layer of cement mortar.
  • Wait for complete hardening of the cement layer. The longer the curing time, the better (usually over a day or longer, this will give the foundation extra strength).
  • Then lay several layers of roofing felt.
  • The screen itself is laid in half a brick, the initial two rows are made by solid masonry on the roofing felt. In the 3-4 row it is necessary to make ventilation gaps, then again continue to lay the brick in a continuous layer.

The only true method of cleaning a burzhuyka stove is to clean the chimney, which is something that isn’t done very often. Usually, one uses a hairbrush. Making it with your hands is totally doable; just tie a brush in the shape of a cylinder to a rope.

The best brushes are those with plastic or iron wire bristles. The brush’s diameter is chosen so that passing the flue pipe encounters little to no resistance.

Cleaning is done to improve heat dissipation by increasing the flow of smoke through the pipe. The cleaning procedure’s steps are as follows:

  • plug the flue opening with a rag;
  • make 2-3 careful movements with a brush to avoid breaking the tightness of the chimney (stop if the brush moves freely);
  • repeat point 2 as many times as necessary;
  • remove coals, ash and soot from the ash pan.

Watch the video below to learn how to install a burzhuyku in the garage.

Making a rectangular stove

What doesn’t constitute bourzhueka! The imagination of traditional artisans is boundless. However, it is advisable to begin with a more straightforward version, such as a rectangular bourjouka, for individuals who have never attempted such a construction. This is the most widely used model, and it’s also fairly simple to put together.

To create a burzhuyka on your own, get ready the following supplies and equipment:

  • plan-drawing – in it the dimensions of each element are noted;
  • Metal sheets – their number depends on the desired size of the stove, the main thing is that the material was not thinner than 4 mm;
  • steel corners;
  • metal pipe (30 mm);
  • pipe (180 mm);
  • welding machine.

To make this kind of variant, you have to do the following:

  1. Metal sheets must first be cleaned and degreased, otherwise the welding machine will not be able to connect them reliably. To do this, you can use an ordinary soap solution or special cleaning agents.
  2. On the sheet of metal that will serve as the front part, it is necessary to cut two holes – one will serve for collecting ashes, and the other will be the fuel stove door. The size of the door should be 3-4 cm smaller than the width of the future fuel stove. As for the height of the arrangement, it is usually made 1\3 lower than the top edge. Do not forget that there will be another rectangular hole for the ash pan at the bottom. It is desirable to separate them.
  3. To make the door, you will need metal slightly larger than the resulting window. To connect the two elements, you can use steel hinges. On the door, there must necessarily be a handle, which will allow you to open and close the bourzhuyku.
  4. Now the metal sheets are welded together to make a rectangular box. It is worth starting with the side walls, which are fixed to the bottom. To control the vertical and horizontal direction, it is worth using a construction level during this work. Next, the back wall is welded. The interior space is divided into three parts – the chimney, firebox and ash pan. Between the last two parts, a grate is installed. On the side walls measure 10-15 cm and welded to the entire valley corners. Pre-prepared strips of the same sheet steel with a width of 2.5-3 cm are fixed to them. As for the length, it is necessary to be guided by the existing dimensions of the stove. The distance is 5cm. All elements are welded to two bars. Here it is necessary to perform this work as qualitatively as possible, since such strips additionally perform the function of stiffeners.

  1. The grate itself should not be welded to the walls, because when you need to clean or replace any element in the chimney, you will have to dismantle the entire structure. And so it is enough and just pull out the grate.
  2. Now it is necessary to fix two metal bars in the upper part of the side walls. They will serve as a support for the reflector. It is placed in such a way that there is a channel in the front, through which the smoke will leave the stove. The reflector will have to withstand the highest temperatures. Therefore, it is better to choose a 1.5 cm thick metal for its manufacture.
  3. Now you can proceed to the top cover. It is better to make a hole for the future chimney in advance. Next, the lintel is cut and welded. It will be necessary to make an even narrower one, which is placed at the level of the grate. It is it that will separate the grate door and ash pan.
  4. Now the handles for the door, latches and curtains are welded on. As for the last elements, it is worth using a thick bar and a steel pipe for reliability.

  1. As soon as the construction is ready, it is installed on legs. For such purposes a metal pipe (diameter 8-10 cm), which is cut into sections of 2-4 cm, will work perfectly. a nut with a screwed-in bolt is welded on each end. This will ensure reliable stability.
  2. The last stage is the arrangement of the chimney. You need a pipe of 15-18 cm in diameter. If we talk about the length, it should be enough to lead the chimney outside. Therefore, in order to avoid overconsumption of material, it is worth thinking about the location of the burner. As the chimney implies bends, each such angle should be equal to 45 degrees. A rotating damper is installed at the lower end. The chimney itself is placed on a 15-20 cm high sleeve. For such a purpose, use a product with a diameter smaller than the main pipe. For the connection use cooking.

When the product is prepared, installation and operation are possible.

Principle of operation

Let’s examine the workings of a homemade burzhuyka in more detail:

  • The combustion air is supplied to the furnace through the under-blower;
  • the combustion process generates heat, which heats the bricks and walls of the stove;
  • smoke, soot and combustion products are drawn out through the chimney;
  • Regulation of combustion to obtain the necessary heat output is made by increasing/decreasing the open gap of the blower door;
  • the stove is heated using various types of both liquid and solid fuel (wood, waste, diesel, coal, peat).

Burner on waste oil

Burzhuyka has its own characteristics; its fuel is waste oil rather than wood. It can stand in for both a small stove for a typical garage and a heating appliance for a sizable space. In any case, the design and operating principle of every model are the same, and they all operate on the same principle.

  • Burzhuyka has 2 parts. Waste oil is filled into the lower part, where it is ignited and brought to a boil.
  • Vapors are drawn out through a perforated pipe for access to oxygen, where their initial afterburning takes place.
  • Vapors are completely oxidized and burned in the upper part, connected to the chimney.
  • The temperature in the lower tank is relatively low, the upper chamber is heated to the maximum, heating the room. Its walls can even glow from the heat. Accordingly, this affects the choice of material for the manufacture of chambers.

An illustration of a bourzhuika on waste oil that follows standard dimensions and measurements.

Let’s talk about the benefits of bourzhukes for used oil.

  • Unpretentiousness and "independence". It is not necessary to constantly put wood or perform any actions, the main requirement is the correct adjustment of the gap of the filler neck (10-15 mm).
  • Efficient heat transfer.
  • No soot from the chimney, the stove does not smoke.
  • Relative fire safety, as waste fuel is difficult to ignite, and only oil vapors burn.


  • noisiness;
  • characteristic odor (it is sometimes gotten rid of by installing a water circuit or air heat exchanger with a supercharged fan, which directs part of the air from the chimney to another room for heating);
  • The combustion chamber (connecting pipe with perforations) and the chimney have to be cleaned quite often;
  • the coking layer of burnt oil in the lower chamber is also quite problematic to remove.

The following guidelines must be followed when using waste fuel on the stove.

  • It is not allowed to use oil waste with gasoline or other combustible impurities.
  • It is obligatory to filter the waste from solid particles.
  • Do not allow water to get into the waste water.
  • Strong draughts are avoided.
  • Compliance with all fire regulations when installing the stove in the room.
  • Reliable ventilation is mandatory.

  • It is categorically forbidden to leave the stove unattended, to sleep when the stove is working.
  • Do not use water for extinguishing!
  • Horizontal sections of the chimney hood are prohibited. The permissible angle of inclination of the chimney is 45°.
  • The chimney should have a length of 4 to 7 meters.
  • It is recommended to pour the waste oil into the stove to a height of less than 1,000 meters ? the volume of the lower chamber.
  • It is necessary to have a powder fire extinguisher and/or sand in the immediate vicinity of such a stove.

How to stoke a burzhuyka

The Bourgeois, who created the burzhuyka, were skilled at using both their hands and their minds when working in a laboratory. Therefore, you must ascertain the minimum and maximum laying of each type of fuel in order for their stove to fully demonstrate all of its benefits. Heat from bourzhuika that has been overfed or underfed will fly into the pipe because there is no circulation created by the firebox. There simply won’t be any room for it in the first scenario due to the excess of gases, and there won’t be enough gases in the second scenario.

Thankfully, Bourzhuika and this place are modest: the range of fuel mass at which efficiency is maintained is extremely broad. It is instantly recognisable as follows:

  • Preparing a bucket of fuel.
  • Lay literally a handful, ignite.
  • We put up a little at a time until the beginning of the hog is cherry blazed.
  • Let"s see how much is taken from the bucket, this is the minimum deposit.
  • We put more, in larger portions, until 1/5-1/6 of the far part of the hog remains dark.
  • Let"s see how much is now selected, this is the maximum deposit.

Note: The determination should be carried out in weak diffused light of the same strength or on a cloudy winter day.

The hog can glow with a ring that changes in width and "walks" along its length when it is running on high-quality fuel (anthracite, pellets). In this instance, measuring the volume and mass of the tabs will require multiple fireboxes. The ring will get narrower and move toward the firebox’s beginning as the fuel burns out. When stoking it as much as possible, it will occupy up to one-third of its length at the firebox’s far end and appear in the center, measuring three to four palms wide.

Video: burzhuika in garage heating

A variant of the receiver tank on wood

Making a stove is a great use for a tank receiver. It is possible to leave out the firewood loading door. The hatch cover is hinged at the top, allowing firewood to be loaded through. For convenience of use, a handle is attached. To allow for ash intake, a hole is cut in the bottom. We suggest you look over the wood-burning stove’s operating manual in greater detail to get the answers to the questions you have.

This is the appearance of the water receiver tank.

Making this choice is not tough, but you must use caution when doing so. This model’s drawback is how difficult it is to clean the ash pan.

However, it’s a great option for use in a garage or summer house.

A grate made from rebar can be used to create a homemade partition between the sections of the tank.

You can also make a small burzhuika out of steel sheets by hand. An illustration of a basic stove made of pre-made steel plates can be found below. Every dimension is included in the drawing. You can maximize fuel efficiency by using two partitions because the combustion products will exit the chamber gradually due to the labyrinth inside. In addition to reading this article, we also suggest that you study from brick.

You can make the stove any size or shape you want with the use of sheet metal.

The metal sheets ought to be at least 4 mm thick. A metal plate with drilled holes or even rebar can be used as the grate.

A 2 mm steel casing can be used to encase the casing. The following issues will not arise as a result:

  • heated surface of the stove, will not cause burns or accidental fire;
  • The amount of infrared radiation will be reduced several times;
  • an air layer between the casing and the surface of the stove will allow it to heat evenly and better heat the room.

Burzhuyka in the garage pros and cons

For a number of reasons, drivers build a homemade firebox in their garage:

  • The stove heats the room in winter;
  • You can cook food or heat a kettle on the stove;
  • A homemade heater with a design approach can become an ornament of the garage.

We encourage you to learn more about the reasons behind bourzhuika smoking and get the answers you need.

When compared to other heating appliances, the stove-burzhuika has several benefits:

  • You can use a variety of fuel for heating – firewood, coals, construction waste, petroleum products, waste oil, etc.
  • The main advantage of the burzhuyka – the speed of heating the room. Due to the high efficiency and power of the furnace will heat the garage area of 50-60 square meters. м. in 15-20 minutes.
  • The furnace distributes heat evenly regardless of where it is located.
  • Burzhuyka is an economical heating device. For example, heating a garage with a burzhuyka will cost several times cheaper than an electric heater.
  • An additional advantage of the bourzhuika in the garage – the ability to cook or heat food. Creating the stove yourself, it is enough to fix a cooking surface made of metal on its upper part.
  • Homemade stove will cost the car enthusiast practically free of charge, if in the garage piled up unnecessary barrel, sheet metal and pipe.

We have previously written an article on installing a bun for heating, which you are advised to bookmark.

The Burzhuyka stove will blend in perfectly with any garage’s interior. Apart from its heating feature, the heater also features a "cooking mode." The cooking panel, which allows you to cook or preheat a kettle, is situated in the upper portion of the stove.

Having a burzhuika in the garage has the following drawbacks:

  • The need for a chimney device in the garage;
  • periodic cleaning of the chimney;
  • the need for a constant supply of fuel;
  • inability to store heat.

Readers find these materials useful:

  • Making a miracle stove for heating with your own hands: features of the operation of the stove from a cylinder

Chimney stove on waste oil products

The waste oil furnace is a device made up of two chambers. Oil burns in the first, and gases are created along with air in the second.

Advice: Fuels that are frequently used as fuel include transformer or transmission oil, kerosene, diesel fuel, petroleum machine oil, and solar oil. Solvents such as acetone and gasoline shouldn’t ever be burned.

What a waste oil burner looks like and what are the main parts of it

The master will need no more than two to three hours to weld such a stove. The following components go into making it:

  • chimney pipe;
  • fuel tank/prepared metal box;
  • sheet metal.

Video: an assessment of the garage’s bourzhuika

From the necessary tools:

  • welding machine;
  • bolgarka;
  • chisel;
  • sledgehammer;
  • tape measure, marker/chalk;
  • hammer;
  • perforator;
  • rivets.

Crucial! It is advised that all welding work be done while wearing protective gear and safety glasses.

Illustration of an oil waste stove. The figure depicts two departments: the first handles oil supply and combustion, while the second handles gas and air combustion.

In order to construct such a stove by hand, you should follow these steps:

  • First, make a drawing of a fuel stove for a garage. In the figure schematically mark all the parts and blanks with dimensions.
  • As a fuel department use a ready-made tank or a metal box with a cut-out hole for fuel supply. The legs are attached to the tank with the help of a welding machine.
  • The upper chamber is made in the shape of an elongated cylinder. It is connected to the lower chamber by means of a pipe. For this purpose, a small round opening is cut out in the box. All joints are checked for tightness. Holes are made in the pipe (10 mm in diameter) for secondary air to enter the channel.
  • The chimney is made in the upper part of the structure at an incline at a height of several meters.
  • The upper surface of the stove can be used as a "cooking stove". This is the hottest place in the stove.
  • To ignite the stove, several liters of "waste oil" are poured into the chamber, a little heating oil is added, paper is placed and ignited. As necessary, oil is refilled in small portions.

Get the answers to your questions by reading the article on building a mini-burezhuika.

Advice: To extend the stove’s lifespan by a few years, a three-millimeter steel plate is fastened to the top platform.

Waste oil burzhuyku is constructed from a metal tank or box. The upper chamber is required to have a cylindrical shape.

The following publications will perfectly complement this material:

  • Review of heating stoves thermofor for home and bath – the best from Siberia

Calculation of basic parameters with drawings and dimensions

Only when all of the design’s primary parameters are accurately calculated can a stove-burzhuyka operate at a high efficiency.


The diameter of this element is crucial in this situation. The primary characteristic that sets the burzhuyka apart is that its chimney capacity should be smaller than its furnace capacity. By doing this, warm air will be able to stay in the stove and warm the air around it rather than leaving right away.

Making an accurate calculation for it is crucial. The diameter ought to be 2.7 times the furnace’s volume.

Here, the furnace’s diameter is measured in millimeters, and its volume is measured in liters. For instance, the furnace portion has a volume of 40 liters, so the chimney’s diameter should be roughly 106 mm.

If grates are installed in the bun, the firebox height—that is, measured from the top of the grate—is determined without accounting for the volume of this component.

It is crucial to determine the bourzhuyka pipe’s diameter accurately.


It is crucial to ensure that the glowing gases continue to burn until they completely extinguish. Moreover, a very high temperature is needed for partial pyrolysis, which is how the fuel must burn. The metal screen, which is positioned on three sides of the stove, will assist in producing this effect. To ensure that the majority of the heat returns to the stove, it should be positioned between 50 and 70 mm from the stove’s walls. In addition to providing the required high temperature, this air movement will put out a fire.

A red brick firebox’s screen has the capacity to retain heat.


That has to be the case. This is due to two factors:

  • part of the heat is radiated downwards;
  • the floor on which the stove stands gets hot, which means that there is a risk of fire.

The bedding simultaneously addresses two of these issues. Since it can be utilized as a metal sheet, it should be placed 350 mm—ideally 600 mm—beyond the stove’s actual shape. A sheet of asbestos or kaolin cardboard that is at least 6 mm thick are two more contemporary materials that work really well for this kind of work.

You can use an asbestos sheet as bedding underneath the bourzhuyku.


Even with all the calculations, occasionally gases in the chimney do not burn all the way through. It needs to be made in a unique way as a result. The components of the chimney are:

  • vertical part (1-1,2 m), which is recommended to wrap with heat-insulating material;
  • Hog (slightly inclined part or completely horizontal), 2.5-4.5 m long, which should be 1.2 m from the ceiling, which is not secured with heat-resistant materials (1.5 m from the wooden surface), 2.2 m from the floor.

It is necessary to lead the chimney outside.

All of the precise measurements should be shown on the scheme. Burzhuyka can be square or round, but the chimney must always be led to the street. The presence of grates determines the furnace’s volume. Burzhuyka scheme is dependent on the material

Assembly of a bourzhuika

The first step in installing the bourzhuika is to purchase or self-assemble it.

Look for the cast iron version of the Soviet pattern when selecting a version that you can buy.

They are still kept in army warehouses, where they were first manufactured in 1955. We won’t delve too far into their background prior to the sale. However, let’s acknowledge that these are very good stoves. Make your own judgment:

Because of its thickness and striking appearance, cast-iron bourjouka can last for up to twelve years.

  • Thermal power – about 4-5 kW, which is enough to heat a garage with an area of up to 40 square meters. м;
  • Reliable cast iron – its thickness is 10 mm;
  • Soviet assembly – here comments are superfluous, then knew how to do quality things;
  • Omnivorous – works on coal, wood, sawdust;
  • Suitable for installing a cauldron instead of the top cover.

The unit costs between 4,000 and 5,000 grams. It weighs about 60 kg, which makes it really heavy even though it looks really cool.

Additionally, you can put together a burner for the garage by yourself. For instance, in accordance with this plan:

Diagram for assembling a burzhukovka that is among the most basic, dependable, and effective.

Sheet steel is used in its assembly. It is advised to use a thickness of 4-5 mm. This will be sufficient to prevent the steel from igniting over the next few years. When using coal, which burns at a higher temperature, the statement is most pertinent. The metal must be cut using a machine or a strong bolgarka in order to assemble. In this instance, the bourzhuyka is set up on a stone foundation, though feet are not required.

Additional parts, such as a metal pipe, doors, and fittings for the grate assembly, are required to assemble the furnace. The chimney is connected to the pipe, which is required to create a chimney spigot. It is necessary to have one large door and one small door. The larger one is welded in front of the firebox, or combustion chamber, and the smaller one is welded between the grate and the bottom. When creating floor-installation legs, use sturdy metal angles or reinforcement that is at least 15 mm thick.

This scheme’s chimney has a diameter of 100 mm, which is sufficient (for this drawing). The welding machine is used to assemble the stove. To ensure that the welded seams can endure heat and keep smoke out of the garage, extra care is taken with them. Remember to install the chimney turners and grate when assembling the body.

A secondary air tube is welded into the rear wall above the first turn’s level in this instance to facilitate pyrolysis combustion and increase heat output.

Burzhuyka from a barrel

This choice is appropriate for people who just need warmth and aren’t too concerned with aesthetics. This variation works well with both barrels and extremely large-diameter pipes.

To obtain one of these stoves, you must take the following steps:

  • two rectangular-shaped holes are cut out from the outside – the entrance to the furnace compartment and the ash pan;
  • the "extra" pieces of the barrel are framed with strips of metal and equipped with a handle with a latch – later they will be doors;

  • 10cm down from the fire hole, on the inside of the barrel weld angle brackets, on top of which lay the grate (purchased separately or made independently);
  • from the outside to the bottom weld the legs – for this you can use pipes or metal angles;
  • Further near the holes and on the doors, hinges are attached and connect the elements;
  • it is recommended to clean all the seams at the end to make the stove look neater and less traumatizing;
  • As soon as everything is ready, the device can be connected to the chimney, which in advance is taken outside.

This bun-making technique is also ideal for a chimney. It is important to remember to weld the pipe’s top and bottom only after the grate has been installed. Therefore, nothing is difficult!

There are actually numerous ways to create a burzhuyku using your hands. Folk artisans occasionally create works of art so magnificent that retail designer gadgets simply cannot be placed next to one another. However, the pursuit of safety must take precedence over originality and beauty. After all, the burner will release carbon monoxide fumes while it is operating, which is potentially fatal. Consequently, you must go outside into the fresh air and ventilate the space once every thirty to forty minutes while working in a room heated by such a device.

Varieties of cast-iron bourgeois boilers

The most straightforward way to heat a summer house is with a cast iron bun stove. But your eyes go crazy when you start picking out a stove. There are countless varieties of cast iron stoves (burzhuyka) available for purchase. So let’s attempt to make sense of all this diversity now.

Differences in shape and design

Summer house cast iron bun stoves come in a range of different form factors. They could have a barrel or rectangular shape, for instance. While some units’ bodies are elongated vertically, others are elongated horizontally. Selecting a suitable variant is done based on the operating conditions; a horizontal version can be used if there is available space. It is best to consider a vertical unit if the dacha has limited space.

Additionally, there are variations in design. As we have already mentioned, cast iron bun stoves are incredibly easy to use. But such simplicity is disliked by a lot of people. Designer stoves with exquisite cases adorned with drawings and monograms were specifically designed for these individuals. They have a very striking appearance, so they will merit being used as interior décor.

Loading door

Many visit the dacha for recreation because they want to unwind in peace and quiet away from the hustle and bustle of the city.

As a result, they are meticulous about how their dacha houses are arranged. To add interest and coziness to the dacha’s interior, you can use a fireplace door to adorn a cast-iron stove-burzhuyka.

The doors are typically made blind and are only used for loading fuel. They serve as both the focal point and the decorative element in some models.

Make sure the cast iron stove you select has a "clear glass" system if it has a fireplace door. If not, you will have to remove soot from your stove’s glass on a regular basis.

Cooking surface

When furnishing their dacha, homeowners frequently construct one-room homes without kitchens. Cooking in such circumstances is challenging. However, the issue will be resolved if you purchase a cast-iron bourgeois stove with a cooking surface—at least during the heating season, when it is cold outside. You can place a kettle or a pot of soup here, or you can use the frying pan to cook something.

An excellent feature of cast-iron burzhuyka stoves is the cooking surface. But you must exercise caution. It all comes down to the possibility of the stove exploding if you unintentionally spill cold water on the cast iron. Cast iron is more easily broken by severe blows and abrupt temperature changes because it becomes more brittle when heated.

Pyrolysis stoves

Summer cottage cast-iron bourgeois stoves can be used with pyrolysis technology. You can marginally improve efficiency and heat output with such a plan. The pyrolysis products that are released when firewood burns in an oxygen-poor environment are burned in the afterburning chamber. These cast-iron bourzhukes have a more intricate design, but the efficiency can be increased by roughly 5–10%. An extra benefit is that the cast-iron stove’s combustion period lengthens.

Another method for achieving prolonged combustion in burzhuyka-style cast-iron stoves is with the aid of sizable combustion chambers. More firewood can be stored in a larger chamber. And regrettably, 10–12 kg of firewood will burn for a noticeable amount longer than 1.5–2 kg. This makes using the stoves much simpler; this is especially useful at night when you would rather sleep than stack firewood.

Safe operation

Crafts are inherently dangerous because, in the process of creating them, one may fail to notice details that don’t seem important to them. Indeed, they bear the responsibility for any potential harm that may arise from the finished product. The same holds true for stoves made by bourgeois individuals.

It’s important to consider the following if you want your home stove to provide warmth alone:

  • The stove must stand on a fire-resistant surface – tile, brickwork, a good thickness of metal sheet, etc.д.;

  • If the stove stands near the walls, it is also recommended to secure them – for such purposes you can use the same tiles, fireproof plasterboard or any other material that is not afraid of contact with high temperatures;
  • near the device should not be any flammable materials or substances – the maximum allowable distance is no closer than 1.5 meters (firefighters generally recommend not to keep such objects in the room);
  • Since the bourzhuika was assembled independently, it is not safe from the production of harmful substances, so the room must be well ventilated (both artificial and natural);
  • in the manufacture of the product is better to choose only high-quality material – at least, such a product will last longer, and as a maximum, will not bring any harm to its owner.

Provision of services Life expectancy and heat quality are directly impacted by one’s approach to this problem. It is therefore preferable to make a small investment, particularly since a few metal sheets will undoubtedly cost less than a complete heater. Still, the space will be comfortable and warm.


Making a stove-burzhuyka is only half the work. It is still necessary for you to enjoy using it. It appears that this is where the difficulty lies: add wood and stay warm. However, things are not always as straightforward as they might appear.

Why do ready-made devices cost more money? since all the amenities have been provided by the assembly engineers. It is worthwhile to consider the following factors in order to make a homemade stove enjoyable as well:

  • protection – during the laying of fuel, old coals can fall out, which is quite traumatizing, so in front of the furnace chamber you need to build a small grid;
  • Since the stove is red-hot, it is worth insulating it from the outside, or at least insulating the surrounding surfaces – this will reduce the risk of fire;

  • It is desirable to cover the bourjouka with heat-resistant paint or anti-corrosion coating – so the product will serve much longer;
  • it is worth attaching handles to the body, because during the burning of fuel, the walls of the device will get very hot;
  • It is obligatory to use a draft adjuster through the wheelers – this makes the operation of the stove more comfortable;
  • If the stove is made from an old gas cylinder, it is important to make sure that there is no dangerous substance left inside the container – otherwise there is a high risk of explosion.

Pros and cons of bourgeois boilers

It makes perfect sense to use bourzhukes to heat garages. Due to the significant amount of heat loss associated with electric heating, energy costs are high. This also holds true for heating using liquefied gas and diesel. This means that using a bunsen stove to heat your garage is still an option. This straightforward stove’s fuel options include coal, wood, fuel briquettes, and other fuels. It is omnivorous and can be installed and used without a permit.

Think about the advantages of bourgeoisie:

Burzhuyka has an extremely respectable efficiency index, which ranges from 70 to 80% depending on the fuel type and design.

  • Suitable for heating garages and any other technical premises;
  • Give a large amount of heat, which depends on the type of fuel used – using wood with a high calorific value, you will achieve a good heat;
  • Fast heating – rake out the ash left from the last heating, load fresh wood, wait for 15-20 minutes. After this time, the garage will become noticeably warmer. In 30-40 minutes the temperature will reach a comfortable limit (it is not worth raising it above +23-24 degrees Celsius);
  • Simple installation – you need to mount it on a non-combustible base and connect the chimney;
  • The possibility of modernization – bourzhuika can be easily converted to liquid and gas burners. There are also certain techniques to increase efficiency – we will touch on these points in the review.
  • Not the most presentable appearance, but in a garage or other technical room it does not matter in the slightest;
  • Incorrectly assembled firebox can be too voracious and inefficient – 40-50% of heat will fly outside;
  • It is necessary to install a high chimney – proper draught is ensured by installing a chimney up to 4-5 meters in height.

Furthermore, bourzhuiki require routine cleaning. Eliminating accumulated ash and embers is one thing; cleaning the chimney of tar is quite another. Installing a chimney made of pipe with a diameter of at least 100 mm (and preferably 120 mm) solves the tar problem.

Modernization of the stove

Warmth and comfort can be added to the garage room by installing a bourzhuika. However, this stove’s efficiency can be raised by 10% to 15%. The list of technical fixes is as follows:

  • Installation of a brick jacket on the back and sides – we have already talked about it. The thickness is half a brick;
  • Installation of a chimney with a long horizontal section – it will save part of the heat flying into the chimney. We put the stove in one corner, pull the chimney to the other, and then lead it upstairs;
  • Cover the walls with steel sheets – they will reflect the infrared radiation back into the room;
  • Installing a steel jacket around the stove – surround the bourzhuika with steel sheets, placed at a distance of 40-50 mm from its walls. This solution forms a convector that makes the air circulate around the garage.

We look at a sustainable do-it-yourself option in our guide to heating and insulating your house: constructing a tiny bungalow out of waste oil and wood. This do-it-yourself heater reuses materials that would otherwise go to waste to effectively warm small spaces. You can build an affordable heating system that lowers your carbon footprint and lowers your energy costs by following our easy-to-follow instructions. Whether you want to heat a workshop or stay warm in a cabin, this project provides a useful and sustainable substitute for conventional heating techniques.

Making the stove.

To fit in the car, I purchased 12 meters of profile pipe, which I asked to be sawed into 6 pieces measuring 2 meters each.

I bought 270 x 270 mm cast iron grates.

I began to weld the side walls after cutting the pipes into 50 centimeter lengths.

I chose to bend the wall behind me.

The firebox’s approximate measurements are as follows:

  • height 50 cm,
  • length 55-60 cm,
  • width 40 cm.

I measured the diagonals, set the side walls parallel, sawed four equal bars, and welded them in. They’ll support the horizontal dividers.

I then used 4 mm sheet steel to cut out the lower partition. The stove has been moved forward, and the back has a 33 x 12 cm gas passage.

The size of the upper second partition is the same for gas passage, but it is repositioned. The rear has a tiny slit to lessen aerodynamic resistance.

These movable partitions will have a small amount of corner reinforcement added. removed with ease using the furnace.

Making the top cover is the next step. At the pipe’s entrance, the shape was designed to enhance gas passage and decrease aerodynamic resistance. Warm secondary air for afterburning will be supplied via a tube with holes in the chamber above the firebox.

I discovered a 100 x 100 mm section of square profile pipe in the garage; this is the beginning of the square gas duct at the furnace outlet. Making a damper in this manner is even simpler. We need the flap itself, an axle (I used a long bolt), a handle with a counterweight, and a spring to secure the flap.

It is 4 mm thick on the flap.

I then created a seamless transition for the gases by welding the pipe to the stove’s top.

I constructed a secondary air tube. In essence, afterburning of flue gases occurs when hot air is supplied to the area behind the furnace. It raises the temperature in the second chamber theoretically. I covered the tube with a corner to keep it from burning out. For increased strength, the nozzle itself was flattened and welded.

And fused within a tube, that is.

In addition, I sawed the fittings and created an insert using a pipe with thick walls. The pipe is free on the other end, which I welded on one side. This is done to account for the fittings’ thermal expansion.

I strengthened the ash pan’s walls with a corner and created a tight hatch for ash removal. It is very easy to insert the cover, and thick paper was used to adjust the gap.

I punched four holes in the hatch and used flaps to secure the carburetor’s lower section. These will be used to precisely control the air flow.

I use refractory bricks to keep the stove from burning and to retain more heat in the zone of active combustion. 23 x 11.5 x 3 cm in size.

I constructed the front wall, framed the firebox door, and cut a window for it.

I then used sheet metal, corners, and a cut piece of the front wall to construct a door. There are holes in the bottom section from the outside as well as the inside, but from the top. The door cools down in this manner! Naturally, the design is not very successful; the inner sheet needs to be fixed on the studs rather than being welded around the outside. It expands, gets hotter, and bends the door outward. I’ll make it right!

I created four legs. Three of them can be raised or lowered.

I made a door locking mechanism and welded the legs into place. a piece of ball joints, fittings, and GUR plates. made stops for the door as well; it is hinged.

I’m creating an air circuit to set the stove on fire. I purchased a 0.5 mm sheet of tin and secured it with rivets and self-tapping screws.

A corrugated pipe running the length of the garage will receive the air intake, which will come from below.

Cans of thermal paint were lying around in the garage, so we chose to use them.

Oven melted. I’ll tell you right away that I was mistaken about the paint; the can states 400 degrees Fahrenheit, not degrees Celsius. Paint was peeling off and smelling bad.

Homemade bubbler from an old bidon

Selecting the type of construction is the first step in the stove’s self-manufacturing process. The cross-section of the heater can be either round or rectangular. Even an old bidon for milk, water, or other liquids will work for assembling such a unit.

Homemade firebox constructed from a bidon

Expensive supplies and difficult-to-reach instruments won’t be needed. You can buy everything you need at the hardware store or find it in the barn.

Completing a DIY wood-burning stove

Tools and materials for assembling the stove

  1. Bidon.
  2. Metal bar with a diameter of 0,6 mm.
  3. Hammer.
  4. Chisel.
  5. Pipe for smoke exhaust.
  6. File.

Some stove models require a welding machine for assembly, but everything can be done without welding if you’d like. The benefit of using a welding machine is that you can increase the structure’s rigidity and dependability with its assistance. You should choose the size of additional units based on the following guidelines, as there are no recommendations for any particular dimensions. When it comes to DIY burners, each component is chosen separately. You should use the dimensions of the main container as a guide when choosing the sizes of the additional units.

Burzhuyka in a container

First things first, the blowhole needs to be ready. Make a hole in your can with it. It ought to be positioned slightly below the neck. A regular rectangular shape should be formed out of the sawed hole. This can be accomplished by carefully grinding the connector’s edges with a file.

The canon’s bottom should be ready for the next hole to be made. It needs to have a diameter that will allow the flue pipe to enter it with enough force later on. It is very easy to determine the correct size. Make sure to mark the location of the chimney installation. Draw a hole that is between 15 and 20 mm smaller than the chimney pipe’s diameter. The next thing you’ll need is a regular hammer and a chisel. You can drill the hole you want with these easy-to-use tools. Ultimately, all you will need to do is use a file to smooth it out.

Try to fit the smoke exhaust pipe into the designated slot after taking it out. It will be necessary to spend more time working with a file if the chimney fails. It’s not necessary to be overly enthusiastic, though. As was previously mentioned, the flue pipe needs to be inserted into the socket with enough force.

Using a 0.6 mm diameter metal bar, attempt to bend it in a serpentine pattern. You are going to use this snake as a grate in the future. In order to place the prepared grate in the neck normally, it must be bent. Ultimately, all that’s left to do is position the grate within the container, and the DIY stove will be prepared.

Installing these stoves on specialized stands is advised by specialists. This is safer and more dependable. Furthermore, adding a damper to the under-blower of a homemade bourzhuika can enhance its design. You’ll be able to control the amount of heating, fuel consumption, and draught intensity.

Thus, even an old canister can be used to assemble a basic firebox. No costly specialized equipment is needed for this type of work. All that’s left to do is set up the stove in the proper location and attach the chimney pipe. For the time being, a homemade stove will heat the space effectively until you make the decision to install a more effective and functional system.

A well-made stove will adequately heat the space until you choose to install a more efficient and effective system.

Development and improvements

"Bourgeois" burzhuika originated when the Belyaks had Soviet Russia pinned down on all sides, and it was primarily intended for dry wood or peat. The enemy held control over all forests and coal-mining regions. Burzhuika was not modified for use with other kinds of solid fuel until much later, after the Soviet Union had established itself.

There was not much to do: add a grate and horizontal baffles to the firebox to form the smoke channels. At the front bend of the channel the pressure in the presence of draught will always be lower than the atmospheric pressure, which was not provided by the original firebox. Therefore, it became possible to equip the stove with a burner, turning it into a heating and cooking stove. If the pipe is led out at least 1.5 m above the roof ridge and equipped with an aerodynamic mushroom umbrella, then, without fear of carbon monoxide, such a bubbler can be made and two-burner burner. The drawing of the improved stove is shown on the left side of the picture. fig.

The advent of heat engineering led to the increasing popularity of slow-burning stoves, which are highly user-friendly and cost-effective. Burzhuyka proved to be a good fit for this kind of firing: all that was needed to transform it from a blind pillow to a burning mode was to remove the grates, and the under-blower has an air throttle that controls the heat output and mode of combustion. Figure (right) displays a stove equipped with a modern and user-friendly B air regulator. Loginova.

About grates and under-blower

The grate needs to be taken out of a bourzhuika before it can be converted from a regular stove into a slow stove. By providing air from above to the fuel, slow combustion is ensured and the smoldering mass absorbs as much air as required. If air is introduced from below through the grates, the fuel will either decompose at the top while the bottom stays intact, or it will ignite into flame combustion if the fuel is dry and breathable. Consider the inconvenience of cooking barbecue over a grill: you must either blow on the coals or put out the flames.

Consequently, a set of separate cast iron grates should be used instead of a single piece of steel sheet for the grate in a multi-mode burner because the latter cannot be removed through the firebox door. Steel angles that have been welded from the inside to the furnace walls or, better yet, sections of reinforcing bars with a diameter of 10 to 15 mm can support them.

Either way, it’s worthwhile to round the underblow, just like in Loginov’s stove, and install an M60x1 spigot that is fastened with screws or rivets. The threads will twist at all during welding, and as you are aware, taps only create big threads when used on a machine.

Burzhuyka that has an underblow threaded roundly becomes genuinely universal:

  • Blowhole is fully open – bourzhuyka , coal, peat briquettes, pellets.
  • Loginov throttle is screwed on the under-blower, grates are removed – slow burning bourzhuika on sawdust, wood chips, waste paper/cardboard and other waste fuel.
  • The stokers are installed, the outlet pipe of the gasifier is inserted into the under-blower (see "Gasifier outlet pipe"). Further) – a stove burning waste oil, dark stove fuel.


According to modern conceptions, the rooms in the bourgeois apartments (the mansions housing the people who had draped themselves) were enormous. As a result, IR from the screen was crucial in heating them during the stationary mode of combustion. As convection heating is sufficient in the existing housing, heat radiation will only cause the walls to become too hot, increasing heat loss to the exterior.

The best way to make use of the excess infrared radiation is to surround the stove with a U-shaped hot water boiler rather than a screen. Since infrared radiation is reflected by the inner surface layer of the screen metal and its reflectivity is nearly independent of surface temperature, it won’t affect the stove’s burning mode.

A water bourzhuyka with a storage tank will only provide DHW because the portion of its heat output that is shared by the screen and the outside is 1/5–1/7 of the total amount of IR. But it’s already a blessing for a dacha or a country home.

How to install

Experienced professionals advise positioning the Bunsen stove roughly in each of the room’s corners and leading the chimney out to the opposite side. You can get the stove’s maximum heat output by positioning it in this way. The pipe should be extended at a 30 degree angle to prevent the heat from escaping along with the smoke. Additionally, try to stay away from chimney sections that are straight and horizontal.

It takes a reliable exhaust system and supply ventilation system to install a burzhuyka stove on garage property.

Store the stove away from any moving vehicles. Burzhuyka ought to be positioned 1.5 or even 2 meters away. Additionally, move any combustible materials or items away from the stove to a roughly equivalent distance.

The front and sides of the stove need to have brick walls built. In addition to offering protection from unintentional contact with the hot structure, this also generates heat accumulation for the stove, allowing you to greatly boost the stove’s efficiency (burzhuika).

If the garage walls are composed of wood, there should be a space of roughly 100 cm available between them and the stove. To protect the wooden walls, they should be covered with bricks, asbestos sheets, or other fire-resistant materials.

It is crucial to add a concrete screed or an iron sheet up to two centimeters thick at the base of the bourzhuika. This will help prevent the fire from spreading in the unlikely event that sparks, embers, or other debris fall out of the stove.

Use of burzhuyka should only be done in spaces with adequate ventilation. Oxygen plays a major role in fire. As a result, the garage needs to be adequately ventilated in order for the fire to start and for the stove to produce the least amount of heat. Sometimes leaving a somewhat small space between the garage door and the ground is enough for this purpose. If there isn’t one, you’ll need to create one on your own or build a supply ventilation system.

Never store anything combustible close to the stove.

If there is wood or oil and gasoline containers close to the stove, they could catch fire and have very bad effects.

Selecting the design of the stove

Given the abundance of drawings of common bourgeois people available on the Internet, we will present you with four unique designs, one of which will undoubtedly meet your needs:

  1. Two-pass wood and coal stove welded from sheet metal.
  2. Vertical heater from a gas cylinder with an air or water circuit.
  3. Pyrolysis stove of long combustion from a cylinder or a pipe installed horizontally.
  4. Drip on waste automobile and other oils.

Two smoke turns on one unit

Note: Ceramic bricks, which are thoroughly covered in this topic, can also be used to construct the heating stove. Although the dacha’s interior will accommodate this type of heat source nicely, the garage will find it inconvenient due to the brick structure’s size, lengthy heating period, and immobility.

Air chamber at the top of a wood heater

We will now offer several suggestions regarding the design of a homemade bourzhuika:

  1. If you spend a little time in the garage (1-3 hours a day), you will need a quick heating of the room, and it will be provided by a vertical wood stove with an air heat exchanger (option #2), presented in the photo. Thanks to the fan that drives air through the upper chamber, it acts like a heat gun.
  2. The same second option is suitable for boxes of large sizes (standard dimensions of the garage – 6 x 3 m). Then the air chamber turns into a water circuit, connected to the heating registers.
  3. For permanent heating of a standard garage is suitable for option number 1 – an efficient two-way stove on wood, or number 3 – a unit of continuous combustion. The choice depends on the material you have: the first is made from a propane cylinder, the second – from a sheet of iron 4 mm thick.
  4. For those who plan to burn waste oil for heating, it is recommended to weld a drip-type stove from a round pipe (option #4). If you want and skill you can carry out its modernization – to convert it into a boiler, making a water jacket.

Two-compartment pyrolysis burner

Aid. Two more designs from the well-known garage DIY are worth mentioning: the wheel-disk heater, which is a tiny heater, and the well-known stove, which is a burzhuyka top burning Bubafonya. In-depth instructions are provided for the first, while the video displays the second:

For homeowners wishing to improve their insulation and heating systems, building a small-scale Bourzhuika by hand using waste oil and wood can be a rewarding and useful project. Reusing materials and utilizing sustainable fuel sources helps you save money on energy bills while also improving the environment.

The adaptability of building a mini-bourzhuika is one of its main benefits. This heating solution can adjust to your resources, whether you live in an urban environment with plenty of waste oil or in a rural one with easy access to wood. It is also ideal for small spaces due to its small size, which allows it to provide warmth and comfort without taking up much space.

Additionally, constructing a miniature Bourzhuika fosters ingenuity and inventiveness. Homeowners can customize the project to fit their own needs and tastes, from sourcing materials to designing the structure. This practical method encourages independence and self-reliance in addition to a sense of accomplishment.

Additionally, there are financial and environmental advantages to using waste oil and wood as fuel sources. Wood is a renewable resource that can be obtained from fallen branches and trees through sustainable harvesting methods. You can use waste oil, which is frequently thrown away by eateries or car dealerships, to heat your house instead of using traditional heating fuels, which will cut down on waste.

In conclusion, creating a small-scale, handcrafted mini-bourzhuika offers an economical and environmentally responsible way to insulate and heat a space. Homeowners can enjoy efficient warmth while lowering energy costs and their environmental impact by utilizing waste oil and wood. Anyone can take on this rewarding do-it-yourself project to improve the efficiency and comfort of their home if they have the necessary creativity, resourcefulness, and commitment to sustainability.

Video on the topic

Burzhuyka stove that runs on everything (wood, coal, oil).

Waste oil burner in a wood stove.January 24, 2024

What type of heating you would like to have in your home?
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