Ceiling partitioning for a bathhouse conduct the chimney correctly

Ensuring adequate heating and insulation is crucial for constructing or remodeling a bathroom in order to create a functional and comfortable area. Making sure the chimney is installed correctly is an important part of this process, particularly when working with ceiling partitioning. The chimney is essential for removing smoke and fumes from the bathhouse, preserving air quality, and averting possible dangers. In this piece, we’ll examine the critical factors and methods associated with properly conducting the chimney through ceiling partitioning.

To ensure maximum performance and safety, installing a chimney through ceiling partitioning requires careful planning and execution. Its effectiveness can be greatly impacted by the design and placement of the chimney within the partitioning. To stop heat loss and keep the bathhouse at the right temperature, the chimney must be properly sealed and insulated. Furthermore, maintaining adequate ventilation and clearance around the chimney can enhance general air circulation and reduce the possibility of fire hazards.

Maintaining the structural stability and integrity of the chimney through ceiling partitioning is one of the main challenges. If the weight and heat produced by the chimney are not sufficiently addressed, they may cause considerable stress on the nearby materials and possibly result in structural failure or damage. For the chimney installation to be safe and long-lasting, it is essential to use suitable support structures and reinforce the partitioning.

When installing ceiling partitions for a chimney, it’s crucial to take into account the materials’ suitability for high temperatures, smoke, and moisture exposure. Selecting long-lasting and fire-resistant materials for the chimney and surrounding partitioning can reduce the amount of maintenance needed and increase the installation’s lifespan. Appropriate insulation and vapor barriers can also help shield the building from moisture damage and increase energy efficiency.

In summary, one of the most important factors in guaranteeing the effective and secure functioning of a bathhouse heating system is appropriately routing the chimney through ceiling partitioning. Bathhouse owners and builders can create a functional and comfortable space that meets their heating and insulation needs while minimizing potential risks and maintenance requirements by considering factors like placement, insulation, structural support, and material selection.

Importance of Ceiling Partitioning	Proper Chimney Conduct
1. Prevents heat loss in the bathhouse	1. Ensures efficient ventilation
2. Creates separate zones for different temperatures	2. Avoids smoke accumulation
3. Enhances insulation for better energy efficiency	3. Reduces fire risk by directing smoke safely

Rules of installation of the chimney

Locations where the pipe passes through ceilings and other building structures should be evaluated with the understanding that they are lined with wood, or combustible material, from the inside.

In this instance, the presence of a combustible lining is sufficient; the type of material used to construct the wall or ceiling is irrelevant. The following are the general postulates for installing chimney channels:

• Before installing a metal or masonry brick stove must be successfully selected a place so that the future chimney of the bathhouse did not fall on the supporting structures of the roof. There is no point in making unnecessary turns of the pipe, and it is impossible to turn a brick channel even if it is a brick channel. The total number of turns of the chimney should not exceed 3;
• The horizontal section from the heater to the vertical duct should not exceed 1 m in length. Exception – inclined at an angle of 45 ° gas duct, sometimes used instead of horizontal. But even here do not get carried away, make this section as short as possible;
• A single-wall metal chimney must be located at a distance of 0 from unprotected combustible flooring materials.5 м. If combustible surfaces are covered with a non-combustible screen, the gap can be reduced to 38 cm. All the requirements of the fire regulations are shown in detail in the figure below;
• the same picture shows how to correctly install the chimney in height, so that its cut is not in the leeward zone. The natural draught force will then be considerably reduced;
• The vertical flue must be equipped with a system for cleaning and condensate drainage.

A stainless steel or ceramic insert can be found inside a modern, brick chimney. This is required to prevent condensation from damaging the walls. Condensation occurs when a heat source operates unevenly, causing ice to form in the pores of the brick and splinter it apart.

It is highly advised to cover the single-wall pipe on the attic floor with a layer of non-combustible insulation that can withstand heat; basalt fiber is the best material for this purpose. The exterior of the insulation is covered in a galvanized steel casing. As a result, the attic area will be safe from fire and condensation won’t form on the pipe’s exterior. The same indents are seen in the wall as they are in the ceiling when a chimney is installed through it.

Types of chimneys

At present, homeowners install one of three types of chimneys for their bathrooms:

• Stainless steel or ordinary black metal pipe with thick walls;
• double-walled pipe with a layer of non-combustible insulation – sandwich chimney;
• traditional brick chimney.

Although conventional pipe is the most straightforward option, its use is decreasing. People are gravitating toward sandwiches more and more because they value safety over affordability. Yes, and not many people like it when black condensate drips and taints the sleek, polished surface of stainless steel. These issues can be avoided, though, if you put in some effort and mount the pipe correctly. We’ll talk about how to do it right below.

As a point of reference. Steel sauna stove owners who prefer to do things by hand and cut costs on materials are typically the ones who install conventional metal pipes.

The channel’s double-walled sandwich construction makes installation work much easier and improves bathhouse safety by reducing the risk of fire and ignition. Since the furnace is located inside the structure, the chimney must pass through the wall, the floor, and the roof. Additionally, they are not always composed of materials that do not catch fire, making the typical glowing gas pipe a high fire hazard.

Along with a sturdy chimney made of sandwich pipes, whose surface temperature is significantly lower than the flash point of the majority of building and finishing materials. However, the brick and double-walled gas duct is also indented to combustible structures in compliance with fire safety regulations. It should be noted that the third type of channel is installed with brick sauna stoves, while the first two types are installed with steel ones.

Note: Metal gas ducts are installed if the furnace is not made of brick; otherwise, the pipe for the combustion products is made of the same material.

The sauna’s chimney installation can be done either inside or outside the structure, depending on how it is laid out. The horizontal or angled portion that emerges from the stove in an outdoor setting passes through the exterior wall and joins the vertical section. A vertical chimney is implied to pass through the floor and roof structures by the internal layout. The following are the nodes that present the highest risk of fire; the image illustrates the results of incorrect installation:

The photo clearly shows that the distance between the pipe and combustible materials is not maintained, which is why the latter began to catch fire. The bottom photo clearly has a mistake – there is an unacceptablely short vertical section that should rise above the roof’s ridge.

Basic rules of construction

It is possible to assemble a safe and well-functioning chimney by following easy instructions. But, if you alter from the guidelines below, the design may become unsafe in terms of fires in addition to becoming inefficient.

• The total height of the building should not be less than 5 meters from the heat source to the head of the pipe.
• It is not allowed to use pipes with a smaller diameter than the outlet of the heater spigot.
• The height at which the pipe rises above the roof must exceed the ridge height by 50 centimeters. If the chimney is located on the slope of the roof, then the distance above which it should rise half a meter, is calculated based on the following scheme:

• If the device has a height above the base of more than one and a half meters, it must be reinforced with stretchers.
• Connections of the construction elements must not coincide with passages through the roof or ceiling.
• The length of horizontal or inclined sections of the chimney must not exceed one meter. This is necessary to exclude the clogging of pipes with soot, as well as, to ensure the best ratio of draught force and efficiency of the stove.
• If the roofing material is combustible, it is necessary to equip the pipe with a spark arrestor made of mesh, with cells no larger than 5 millimeters.

Considering all of these factors is not difficult, and the device’s efficiency and safety will comply with all applicable standards and regulations.

You can read more about other crucial factors that need to be considered when building a chimney.

How to protect the ceiling from fire

You must become familiar with SNiP 41-01-2003, "Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning," before beginning work. Heating and ventilation system devices are normalized in these construction norms. The distance between the floor and roof elements and the exterior surfaces of the pipes is specified in the SNiP text. It is also necessary to add non-flammable materials to the space between the pipes and the roof elements. As a result, when making a passageway through the bathhouse’s ceiling, there needs to be enough space between the heated pipe’s surface and the floor structures.

It is important to note that metal pipes are preferred by many in the construction industry. As a result, you ought to refer to Annex K of the SNiP mentioned above, which details the minimal separations from stove components and pipes:

Stove wall thickness, in millimeters

Placement of Indentation

Measurement in millimeters between the wall or partition and the outside surface of the stove or flue duct (chimney)

Not shielded from flames

Safeguarded against fire (per 6.6.23 α)

The distance between the outside surface of the stove or flue duct (chimney) and the partition wall is not standardized for walls with a fire resistance limit REI 60 or higher and a flame spread limit of 0 cm.

2 The fire resistance limit of the wall (partition) within the setback in buildings housing children’s institutions, dorms, and catering businesses should be at least REI 60.

3 Protection for the floor, walls, and partitions (per 6.6.20), as well as the ceiling (per 6.6.23), must be installed at least 150 mm beyond the stove’s dimensions.

As you can see, the recommended setback is 380 mm for flammable materials with additional fire protection and 500 mm for wood without thermal insulation. Along with the guidelines provided in SNiP 41-01-2003, you should carefully read the chimney’s manufacturer’s instructions. Details about the indents in relation to the materials used are included in the documentation.

Installation of aisles for two-storey buildings

In the event that the building has two stories, the installation on the first floor must be completed before addressing the second floor. How would one go through the second floor with a sandwich pipe? When wiring a sandwich chimney through the second floor, keep the following points in mind:

1. As a rule, the second floor of the baths is arranged under the rest room. Also the laying of sandwich chimney can take place in a private house. In such cases, the transition from a sandwich pipe to a single-wall pipe is made. This is to allow the heat from the chimney to spread and heat the rooms. The transition to a single-wall pipe should be carried out at a height of 1 m from the floor of the second floor.
2. The transition back to the sandwich pipe is carried out in front of the attic passage unit.
3. The attic passage unit is installed in the same way as the previous one.

Kindly take note! The use of regular building silicone to seal the joints of the chimney’s waterproofing apron is strictly prohibited. You need to use a specific sealant for this purpose.

1. It is necessary to conduct the chimney through the waterproofing coating and roofing. It is mandatory to perform thermal insulation and arrange a protective apron, which will serve as a waterproofing of the sandwich chimney. For these purposes, homemade aprons and heat-resistant sealant may be suitable.

To prevent moisture from seeping into the attic and running down the structure below, waterproofing is required after wiring the pipe through the roof. Adherence to the rules delineated in SNiP is also mandatory when navigating the sandwich chimney via the roof.

Preparing the place for the ceiling partitioning

A plumb line is used to locate the center point, which will hold the sandwich pipe. After marking the location, a hole is made for the pipe to pass through. To maintain aesthetics, it is advised to decorate anything you make by hand from the side of the steam room. You can use a stainless steel or galvanized steel sheet for this purpose. It is necessary to make a sheet that is bigger than the chimney hole.

The chimney opening should be marginally larger than the pipe that will go through it.

It’s important to consider the following while setting up the space:

• when installing sandwich construction vertically, it is worth remembering that the marking of holes is carried out first at the top point, and then already at the bottom points. That is, first of all, the marking should be carried out on the roof. Performing marking, it is absolutely necessary to use a plumb line to determine the center;
• When using production models of assemblies, it is recommended to carefully study the instructions, which usually indicate tips and preferences for installing a particular model of ceiling partitioning;
• Ceiling passage units for the chimney with their own hands are made using stainless steel sheets. The hole in the sheet is made 1-2 mm larger than the sandwich pipe.

Information that is helpful! It is best to determine the location of the chimney construction and heating equipment from the outset of the building project. In this instance, you can figure out how to install the beams beforehand and specify the space required between them so that a sandwich chimney can be installed.

The time to alter the ceiling above the stove’s design is taken into consideration if the chimney installation will take place in a completed structure. The portion of the beam nearest the chimney is removed and strengthened with unique lintels.

About distances to combustible structures

It is imperative that the chimney’s passage through the bathhouse’s ceiling adhere to all fire safety regulations.

A special assembly of the passage through the ceiling is required for a bathroom pipe. This apparatus establishes safe separations between the materials of the ceiling slab and the pipe’s exterior. They fall under SNiP 2.04.05-91 regulation. The suggestions (paragraph 3.83) are as follows:

• from the outer surfaces of brick and concrete pipes to combustible rafters and purlins – at least 130 mm;
• from ceramic pipes without insulation – at least 250 mm, from them with thermal insulation – 130 mm.

It is important to consider these numbers when installing floor joists. The typical spacing is only 60 centimeters. By taking this step, only when using pipes with insulation will the suggested distances be kept. Take sandwiches, for instance.

The stove’s outlet pipe typically has a diameter of 115–120 mm. When passing through the ceiling with a sandwich that has an insulation thickness of 100 mm, the outer diameter will be between 315 and 320 mm. A minimum of 130 mm should separate the object on all sides. As it happens, the spacing between adjacent beams in this instance should be 130 mm * 2 + 315 mm = 575 mm. Simply enter the 60-cm gap.

Protecting combustible materials is necessary.

Sandwiches with insulation thicknesses of 35, 40, 45, and 50 mm are widely available in the market. A 100 mm layer is primarily found in sauna stove specialty stores. The only places where temperatures need to be protected with a 100 mm layer of mineral wool are in sauna chimneys. Can I utilize a 50 mm layer? While it is feasible, using 100 mm is a more dependable option if you wish to steam safely.

Let’s figure out the minimum distance for uninsulated chimneys. The safe distance in this instance, with an internal diameter of 115 mm, is 250 mm from the pipe’s outer edge to combustible materials. In this scenario, the spacing between the beams should be 250 mm * 2 + 115 mm = 615 mm. even slightly, but it doesn’t go away. However, the flue channel’s largest diameter is not taken into account in this computation. There are larger ones still. In any case, account for this when calculating the beam spacing if the ceiling hasn’t been installed yet.

You are unable to accomplish this because the wood is not protected and there is a very small gap between the chimney and the wall and ceiling.

In addition, the mandatory Annex 16 offers the following guidelines for indentation (the distance between a pipe’s exterior and combustible materials):

• for a fire-protected partition wall:

• if the pipe thickness is 120 mm – 200-260 mm;
• when the thickness of the pipe is 65 mm – 380 mm.

• if the pipe thickness is 120 mm – 260-320 mm;
• if the thickness of the pipe is 65 mm – 320-500 mm.

We are discussing the indentation from the walls in this application. Chimneys frequently cross walls in close proximity. Additionally, the material they use needs to be protected because the furnace’s flue gases can reach 500°C at their exit. The wood walls will burn and eventually catch fire if they are not shielded. As a result, a sheet of polished stainless steel is stacked on top of a layer of thermal insulation that has been applied to the walls (mineral wool cardboard works well for this).

Types of passage nodes through the ceiling

In addition to keeping the pipe in place while crossing a ceiling, care must be taken to shield the "pie"’scomponentsfrom heat. This function is performed by the ceiling partition, also known as the "passage node."

Nodes for passageways are produced commercially. They consist of a mineralite or metal box with a stainless steel or galvanized steel plate attached to one side. This node has a hole cut in the center, into which the sandwich is placed. The plate on the room side decorates the ceiling hole by covering it. In order to improve thermal insulation, the heat insulator—which is used to bridge the space between pipes and floor joists—is supported by it as well.

This is a mineralite ceiling penetration. The attic’s perspective

There’s no question about what material should be used in the sauna: stainless steel only. The truth is that galvanization produces emissions that are far from the most beneficial substances when temperatures typical of steam rooms are reached. Thus, stainless steel is your only option in this situation.

Everything has a straightforward mounting. If the pipe passage was not considered during the ceiling’s construction, a square hole that is 1-2 cm smaller than the decorative panel’s size is cut out in the appropriate location—between the beams. A layer of heat insulator covers the beams and boards. If accessible, you can fasten a strip of rock wool insulation, mineralite, basalt, or asbestos-cement cardboard (asbestos is dangerous; use it only as a last resort). Metal strips may need to be used to cushion the insulation in specific situations (for a list of these situations, refer to the following table). below).

This is not possible; you ought to have made a square hole. As a result, the wagging near the pipe on the ceiling has already burned.

The appliance is mounted on a straight section that will cross the slab when the stove pipe is installed. Just raise the passage node to the necessary level. Its edges that come into contact with the ceiling boards are covered with a strip of thermal insulator, and self-tapping screws are used to secure everything in place. Even in this instance, there are no issues because manufacturers often include perforations for self-drilling screws in their assemblies.

These products are configured differently. Occasionally, the pipe hole is surrounded by a metal cylinder. The edges of the ornamental plate extend well beyond this cylinder. This kind of passageway assembly installation still requires that the hole be cut out square. It is feasible and can form a circle, but if the pipe is insulated, there must be at least 130 mm of space between it and its edge; if not, there must be 250 mm.

Be careful when using this option; the plate’s size should be sufficient to cover the hole. Furthermore, when using this type of ceiling penetration, it is required to cover the ceiling’s wood with metal strips for upholstery as well as thermal insulators.

The various configurations of passage nodes through the ceiling are available.

Certain passage units are made around the perimeter of the outer edges rather than having a cylinder around the pipe. Mineralite can also be used in place of metal to create them. Heat insulator, such as basalt cardboard or the same mineralite, must be lined along the edges of the ceiling cutout if the boards are composed of metal. The boards themselves are an effective heat insulator if they are composed of minerite. Therefore, extra thermal insulation around the cutout’s edges is not required (though you can still get reinsured).

Features of the metal chimney

Types of metal chimneys

Sandwich pipes are the ideal material to use when building a metal chimney. They are built in three layers:

• internal pipe;
• A layer of thermal insulation on top of it;
• outer chimney.

Sandwich pipe for the building’s chimney

Sandwich pipes have two significant benefits:

• it is not heated from the outside too much, so it can not spoil wooden slabs, in addition, its use will minimize the risk of fire;
• Due to the three-layer construction with the presence of heat insulator inside the chimney in the cold season will not form condensation;
• also due to the presence of insulation, the high temperature in the room is preserved much better, however, and such pipes significantly lose on this characteristic brick chimneys.

Installation plan for a sandwich chimney

Generally speaking, the following are the key benefits of a metal bath chimney:

• ease of installation – the assembly of such a structure will take much less time and effort than laying a brick chimney;
• smooth inner surface – soot and soot will settle on it in minimal quantities, the smoke will go outward in a directed flow, and the draught will be good;
• Cheapness – especially if you do not use ready-made sandwich pipes, but make them with your own hands.

When there is a significant temperature differential, condensation forms on the inside surface of the metal chimney. Sandwich pipes reduce this issue to a minimum. Use pipes with the thickest possible layer of thermal insulation to further reduce it.

Sandwich chimney measurements

Be mindful! The best option is to construct a metal chimney with two main sections. In this version, a standard single-layer pipe should be removed from the stove so that it can warm the inside.

Sandwich pipes are placed on top of it and are the ones that extend outside. This option’s affordability is a key benefit. The pipe closest to the furnace receives more heat, which causes it to deteriorate more quickly. If this occurs, a replacement can be made without needing to purchase a new sandwich pipe.

Sauna chimney

What is better to undertake

The chimney pipe must first be shielded from its two main enemies: overheating and moisture seeping through its joints.

Accordingly, there are two primary actions that need to be taken when insulating a bathhouse chimney:

• Fire protection;
• Waterproofing.

By adding thermal insulation to the bathhouse pipe that runs through the unheated attic, you can stop the structural elements of the roof from heating up and also stop condensation from forming, which can seriously damage the metal.

Crucial! Complex insulation is a viable option that should be taken into consideration as it not only addresses the primary issues but also raises the exploitation level.

Waterproofing serves another crucial purpose by preventing the sauna’s rafter system and other wooden components from decaying. The pipe will not deteriorate despite being constantly wet because of waterproofing.

Fire insulation

Since this design already includes insulation, installing a sandwich pipe for the chimney’s arrangement will, of course, be the safest choice.

Since high-quality sandwich pipes are expensive, this option may not be appropriate for everyone. For this reason, the traditional metal pipes are more in demand.

One method of insulating a single metal pipe is to install boxes and wrap the pipe in insulation made of basalt wool.

You can, of course, omit the insulation, but then the design will be less secure. It is important to remember that, in compliance with all regulations, fireproof partitioning is required.

Methods of waterproofing from the ceiling and the roof

The point where the chimney exits to the roof is where insulation against moisture intrusion is installed.

The chimney pipe’s height and dimensions directly affect how many tests are performed on it and how complex they are.

The truth is that wind, precipitation, and snow flows will have a greater influence on a larger pipe.

In the event that the waterproofing procedure goes awry, precipitation from the outside will eventually seep through the roof, resulting in leaks and the decay of wooden structures.

The type of roof covering and the pipe’s shape directly affect the moisture insulation technique. Therefore, use polymer sections for waterproofing rounded chimneys, and metal aprons and abutment strips for rectangular and square shapes.

Passing a round chimney pipe through a wooden ceiling with the help of a different design of FPU

To allow the chimney to pass through wooden structures, a pre-made ceiling-passage unit (see photo) can be used. It is selected in accordance with the pipe’s outer diameter. Prior to installing this passage unit through the ceiling, the interior surfaces of the passage box and all surfaces that will come into contact with the wood of the ceiling cladding must be lined with thermal insulation.

Factory-made feed-through ceiling unit. With the exception of the front side, all sides should be covered with heat-insulating material before use.

Thermal insulation is typically provided by basalt wool, but it needs to be unique in that it must be able to tolerate high temperatures. Make sure the material you purchase is intended to be used at temperatures between 800 and 1000 degrees Celsius. Although these materials are more expensive, it makes no sense to compromise safety. Less expensive options contain binders in their composition that sinter at high temperatures, rendering the insulation completely useless and raising the risk of fire. Using a foil heat insulator is also recommended as it will increase construction safety.

Having insulated the passage unit, prepare the place for its installation. On the ceiling you mark out where the chimney will be located. Outline a hole of suitable size: slightly smaller than the size of the front panel of the passage unit so that it would be convenient to fix it to the ceiling lining with self-tapping screws. Having cut out the hole, you cover its edges with the same thermal insulator as the passage unit, or any other insulator with similar properties. To increase the fire safety level, you can fix strips of metal on top of the thermal insulator. You insert the prepared passage unit into the prepared hole. It can be put on the pipe and installed together with it. Having put this construction in place, fix the panel of the passage unit with self-tapping screws (the holes can be drilled beforehand).

Setting up and assembling the ceiling penetration device

After verifying that the chimney pipe installation is vertical, you move on to the next step of the process. Add thermal insulation to the passage unit’s remaining gaps. You can use expanded clay to fill the spaces or use fragments of the same basalt wool. In theory, sand can be used, but it is not worth the effort. It loses its ability to retain heat, and expanded clay and basalt wool will eventually sink to the bottom due to gaps that allow sand grains to fall into the furnace.

Whether you lead the chimney in the attic or on the second story will determine what has to be done next. However, the aesthetics and availability of trim make a major difference. The ceiling passageway can be deemed finished if the chimney pipe was routed to the attic. A metal screen for protection should be placed on the pipe if the chimney is located in the attic or on the second floor. This screen is then fastened to the floor using the same screws. The output through the next ceiling (if you are on the second floor) or the roof (if you are in the attic) is the next step that you take after that.

This is the completed form of the ceiling passage.

This shape can also be found in the chimney passage through the ceiling. This version, which comes in two boxes, is ready to use. The outer box is composed of heat-resistant material (minerite in this case), while the inner box is made of metal.

Roof passage unit made of minerite. It is fully operational.

An air layer exists between them, providing fire safety. The manufacturers state that heat insulator does not need to be inserted into the remaining empty space between the sandwich pipe and the partition box. You have two options: either leave everything as is or add more heat-resistant insulation for increased dependability. If a chimney passes through a wooden ceiling, for example, it is preferable to have insurance than to have to deal with the aftermath of a fire.

This is the installation procedure for the minerite roof passage assembly. Simply slide the pipe into the method that has been prepared.

This is an example of a possible passage unit through the ceiling (see photo). In this instance, caulking the perimeter of the ceiling hole is required (keep in mind, starting with the thermal insulation’s upper, metal edge).

Factory passage assemblies come in a variety of designs. There are slight variations in the installation method depending on the shape.

Maintenance of the chimney made of brick and metal

There are numerous approaches to chimney cleaning. Among these, cleaning the chimney in the winter and covering it with snow is arguably the most popular. However, this method’s efficiency is low. It is preferable to employ one of the techniques that yields far more obvious outcomes.

Cleaning a chimney – picture

Cleaning a chimney with a kettlebell hung from a rope

Cleaner for chimneys

The stove’s cleaning and heating

In order to extend the lifespan of your chimney, you should routinely examine all of the joints and assess the general state of the building to identify potential issues early on. As previously mentioned, installing a metal chimney in your bathhouse will eventually require replacing its bottom pipe because it heats up significantly more and breaks down more quickly.

The stove pipe you make with your hands, whether it’s made of metal or brick, will retain heat well and effectively evacuate smoke if you follow the technology. The chance of a fire in this situation is practically nonexistent. Because brick and metal structures are so resilient, you won’t need to construct or install a new chimney in your sauna very soon.

Video – Typical mistakes when installing stoves and chimneys

Safety

The first thing to consider when building a chimney in the bathhouse is safety. Ultimately, wooden structures are prone to spontaneous combustion when executed improperly. If the issue is handled carefully, the bathhouse will last a long time and there won’t be any danger to people’s lives.

The applicable sanitary rules and regulations set forth all the requirements that must be met by chimneys. They specify the space that must be maintained between the chimney and any combustible roof slab components. The pipe’s specifications determine this value. The regulations governing ventilation, heating, and air conditioning devices are approved by SNiP 41-01-2003, which you should become familiar with if you plan to build a chimney in the bathhouse.

Take particular note of point 6.6.22, which contains all the information you need.

SNiP 41-01-2003. Download file

For the chimney to be totally secure, the right materials must be used for thermal insulation:

• mineral wool;
• basalt cardboard;
• mineralite.

Long-lasting mineral wool that is not combustible

Fiberglass magnesium sheeting and fire-resistant gypsum board are also appropriate for this use.

Plasterboard that is resistant to fire can endure up to an hour of direct fire exposure.

Environmentally friendly, moisture-, fire-, and frost-resistant glass magnesium (glass magnesite) sheet (SML)

There are additional factors to think about.

Therefore, it is crucial to select the proper materials for the chimney’s construction because they need to be heat-resistant. For instance, it needs to be made of non-galvanized material if you want to build the chimney using a metal pipe.

The truth is that zinc vapors are very toxic to human health when they are heated to high temperatures.

FIRE SEPARATION AND PASSAGE THROUGH CEILINGS

• Author: WIK
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Such a topic, in my opinion, ought to be discussed. To support what I’ve said, here are a few pictures:

Try your cognitive abilities by watching the tests of three distinct types of passageways with photos and temperature sensors placed in various locations. This will force you to think a little and draw conclusions.There is a basic partition made of minerite and iron that is simply screwed to the wood. There is also a metal partition that protects the wood with minwool.

The complete report and all tables displaying the temperatures on various stoves, chimneys, and locations can and ought to be viewed here: Viewtopic.php?t=mp;start=0 at http://forum.rusbani.ru

Share 2 26-01-2025 09:12:17

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The year before last I decided to clean the pipe in the shower room. Galvanized pipe, single circuit. stood for about 5 years. Pulling out the pipe I was horrified. The section going through the ceiling is burned to a crisp. Minwata was not at its best either. How the fire did not go to the roof, I wonder. Now put stainless steel also single-circuit, but the section is not redone yet. The roof then it is necessary to dismantle, and the time is not found, the second year I have to repair the house still engaged, there too with the roof problems. Therefore, heating slowly myself, other households do not trust, the draught must always be regulated, that overheating of the pipe did not go.And about cutting Vitya, rightly started the topic, here very responsibly should be approached. By the way, I see that the manufacturers of stoves, now claydite recommended to fill with clay. instead of minwool.

Ceiling chimney partitioning

The chimney must be skillfully made to pass through the ceiling in order to guarantee comfort and safety in a room featuring a stove design. Simple guidelines for installing chimneys ensure fire safety. You can use your hands to complete any task. Suggested separation

Building a node that gives the required distance between the ceiling materials and the pipe is required in order to lead the chimney through the ceiling. These guidelines are governed by a unique document that offers the following recommendations:

• The distance from the surface of the concrete or brick chimney to the battens or rafters should be at least 13 centimeters.
• If the chimney is ceramic and without insulation, the distance should be as follows minimum 25 cm. And if there is a thermal insulation layer – 13 cm.

These guidelines must be followed when installing beams. They should be about 60 centimeters apart. These suggestions are applicable to pipes that have insulation on them.

The diameter of the outlet spigot should be between 11.5 and 12 cm. Should a sandwich featuring a thermal insulation layer be conducted through the ceiling, the spigot’s diameter ought to measure roughly 32 centimeters. At least 13 cm must separate you from each side. You must multiply 13 ̅ 2 by 32 to find the distance between the installed beams. It comes out to be 58 cm as a result, which is in line with the suggested 60 cm.

The pipe’s distance can also be determined without insulation. A minimum of 25 cm should separate a spigot with an inner diameter of 11.5 cm from the ceiling material. The spacing between the beams in this instance should be 25 ̅ 2 + 11,5, or 61.5 cm. It is advised to take this action when building the ceiling.

The following guidelines for measuring the gap between the surface of the stove pipe and the slab materials are also included in the document:

• If the partition is protected from possible fire, then at If the thickness of the chimney is 12 cm, the distance should be about 26 cm. If the spigot has a thickness of 5 cm, then the distance is 38 cm.
• If the partition is not protected from fire, then in the first case the distance can reach 32 cm, and in the case of the second option up to 50 cm.

Additionally, the document stipulates that a specific distance from the walls needs to be followed. Since the temperature inside a chimney can reach 500 degrees, it is common for chimneys to be built close to the wall’s surface, which over time may cause a fire. As a result, you must manually apply the thermal insulation layer to the wall’s surface before covering it with a metal sheet.

Self-production of the transition unit

If one prefers to handle everything themselves, there is no need to purchase a pre-made item. This won’t significantly alter the construction. Additionally, a square hole must be sawed into the slab.

The non-combustible plate that will be affixed from the interior of the room needs to be ready next. It is sliced with a circular hole that is the same diameter as the sandwich pipe’s exterior.

Heat insulator and metal strips are used to cover the inner surface of the cut opening. It is passed through with a sandwich pipe that has a mounting plate already attached. It needs to be firmly inserted into the aperture using spacers composed of non-flammable, high-temperature-resistant material.

It is customary to place a thermal insulator sheet between the mounting plate and the ceiling plane in order to prevent heating.

Although it is not the most necessary precaution, it won’t undoubtedly get worse.

Heat insulator fills the opening in the ceiling on the upper room’s side. It can be expanded clay, clay, or special basalt wool, just like in the previous instance. Some people use sand, but this is not a good idea because it has a higher heat conductivity than even expanded clay, and the loose structure will eventually cause it to start spilling.

You can read more about how to seal the chimney’s passage on the ceiling in this article.

The only detailed instructions for conducting a sandwich chimney through the ceiling are given in this material. There are designs with greater technical complexity. The fundamentals of fire safety and efficient chimney operation, however, won’t alter.

Standards for the distance from the chimney to the walls

The table below lists the standards for the distance between fire-prone materials and the chimney’s surface as per SNiP (Annex 16).

Table One

Sandwich pipe thickness, mm	Indentation for the partition, which is protected from fire, mm	Indentation for a partition wall not protected against fire, mm
120	200-260	260-320
65	380	320-500

The standards for the pipe’s distance from the walls are outlined in this appendix. Both the walls and the ceilings require insulation because the wall material might not be fire resistant. This is accomplished by mounting a sheet of galvanized steel and mineral wool on top of the insulation.

Practical lessons

I will now go into detail about each action.

When starting a new bathhouse construction project, some people are unsure of how to locate the pipe passage. To prevent frustration later on, keep in mind that this location is decided upon when the steam room project is being drafted.

Determining the pipe’s vertical axis is crucial for marking. The outlet pipe from the stove marks the start of the layout.

The center of the gap you need to create is the axis that begins with this construction element and rests on the ceiling. The axis goes all the way up to the roof if the steam room has an attic.

Remember the rule as well: there must be at least 13 centimeters between the ceiling and the chimney.

It is important to pay attention! The structure’s components, such as bends, adapters, and pipes, should be installed before installation. ο.) needs to be ready. Many times people forget to remove price tags, stickers, and film, so make sure to do that as well as clean the parts’ surfaces.

Your bathroom pipe installation photo advice

What should the chimney ceiling partition’s measurements be? A common misconception is that these specifications are contingent upon the materials used to construct the chimney. This is untrue; the only thing that matters is that the design stays close to the ceiling without touching it, as this will make it harder to close any gaps later on and allow heat to escape—which is essential in a steam room.

You are probably already aware of the 13 cm gap, but you should now be aware of another sign: the thermal insulation sandwich’s thickness shouldn’t go over 5 cm. Fearing that the insulation will come loose and drop to the ground? Fear not—insurance against these kinds of circumstances will act as an iron sheet that you can attach from below.

It’s critical to understand! When purchasing iron sheets, keep in mind that heated zinc can produce hazardous compounds as it decomposes, making galvanized material unsuitable for a sauna room.

From the inside, this is how the completed construction should appear.

Many people misunderstand the insulation layer’s function and believe it is there for aesthetic reasons, making the interior cozy. Furthermore, its primary goal is to keep the steam room safe from the elements and fire. Fiberglass, asbestos, and mineral or basalt wool are the best materials.

But simply insulating the hole won’t cut it; you also need to build a heat-reflecting screen around the chimney, as we briefly mentioned above. A polished stainless steel piece that has been coated with a mirror will work wonders as a screen. Installing the iron surface should aim to produce the greatest reflective effect for infrared waves.

Create a ceiling-passing unit to close the aperture. This will act as an additional layer of protection against heat leakage from the steam room by creating a sort of air layer.

Details of the construction assembly

Since you are already aware of the process’ wisdom, shall we put the device together? Thus, the bathroom’s partitioning is made up of:

• iron sheet;
• boxes;
• clamp.

The box functions as a sort of shell to keep the wood safe from flames.

On the attic side, a 40 by 40 cm galvanized box is installed. Additionally, an iron sheet up to 50 by 50 centimeters in size is fastened to it from the inside of the bathhouse. To prevent stress on the heater, the pipe is clamped around the lining. The insulation is then placed in the hollow area of the body; typically, the surface is covered in insulation and filled with expanded clay. The last piece, which is the portion of the pipe that goes through the roof and into the street, can then be installed.

It is important to pay attention! Heat-resistant paint should be applied to corroded portions of the structure and clamp joints sealed if you want your chimney to last a long time.

Video instruction: how to make a pipe passage with your own hands

One difficult but essential step in the bathhouse’s construction was the ceiling partitioning for the chimney.

Which insulator to use

Once the device is mounted on the ceiling, ascend to the second floor or attic and use heat insulator to bridge the space between the pipe’s outer wall and the beams.

Thermal insulation can be achieved by using basalt wool. The operating temperature range should be greater than 600°C, so make sure to check.

Clay or mineral wool can be used to insulate pipes from heat.

Some people don’t think this is the best option. First, during production, resins are used as binders; when heated, these resins release formaldehyde. Second, occasionally condensate leaks down the pipe. Furthermore, when wet, basalt and mineral wools lose their ability to withstand heat. Furthermore, it only restores it partially when it dries out. Thus, it’s not the greatest choice at all.

Additionally, they use medium and fine fraction claydite to fill the passage. This is a naturally occurring material with a light weight. It dries out and regains its properties even if it gets wet. Its thermal conductivity becomes slightly worse when wet, and it is already inferior to that of expanded clay wool.

Sand was used a lot back then. With one exception—that being that it progressively seeps through the gaps—the option is not terrible in any way. It’s easy to replenish the sandbox, but it annoys me that there is always sand on the stove.

Clay is a good example of a natural heat insulator. It is diluted to the consistency of paste, and the entire gap is puttied. Occasionally, use expanded claydite as a filler.

Expanded clay is one of the heat insulators.

Here is a recap of how clay is used in the bath pipe’s passage:

"Incorporate cutting rules! He disassembled the chimney on his bath. Alternatively put, I disassembled what was left: a lot of snow fell, and it blew off the top for me. Since the chimney has been there for seven years, you should take a closer look at the bottom before changing the top. Let’s get started. Both internal burning and pipe burnout are absent. Condition: immediately upon posting. I have a passageway with basalt wool around the edges, and clay covers everything else. Without a doubt, this is the best choice.

The use of insulators in the passage unit is not recommended by everyone. There is a belief that it is preferable to leave the space empty because it will allow air to flow through it, allowing the pipe to cool down more effectively and prevent overheating and burning. That might be the case, but the heat from the heated pipe will dry out any wood that is close by, lowering the temperature of spontaneous combustion by as much as +50°C.

It’s evident that the pipe has burnt through.

Several strategies can be used to prevent overheating. The first, and most sensible, is to heat the pipe to unfavorable temperatures for its own purposes by using the heat that escapes into it. The third option is as follows:

Placing stones on the pipe is one method to prevent overheating

1. Make a water jacket on the metal chimney, and use the hot water for showering or heating. The system is not so simple, it requires a remote tank, as well as piping, cold water supply and so on.д. But the temperatures above the water jacket will not be so high, the pipe will not burn through.
2. Also to heat water, but easier: put a samovar-type tank. Also hot water is provided, the chimney is not overheated protected. But here are its own nuances: do not allow boiling, in time to drain heated, add cold water. And it is not quite convenient to do it, because the tank is located a bit high: above the stove on the pipe.
3. Adapt a grid for stones. Water will have to be heated in a different way, but the plus here is the following: the stones dry the sauna after the end of the procedure. Here, too, difficulties may arise: the weight of the stones is considerable, it is unlikely that you can do without a support, unless you use the factory version (right in the picture). In the homemade version will need a structure to redistribute the mass.

The temperature of the pipe in the ceiling passage is considerably lowered when employing any of these techniques. The likelihood of burning diminishes significantly. But that’s not all. There is a method; simply use air to cool. This is accomplished by placing a larger diameter pipe over the insulated pipe. The top and bottom are grate-made openings that allow air to enter and exit. You can use it in the laundry room, but not in the steam room as it will remove all of the steam. This approach works particularly well in the roof passage and attic.

Passage node with your own hands

If there isn’t a store in your city where you can purchase a pre-made floor passage node, you can make one on your own. You will require the following supplies to complete the task:

1. A sheet of fire-safe gypsum board.
2. Minerite.
3. Thin sheet steel.
4. Stainless steel sheet.
5. Dry clay or expanded clay.

Make a tin box as the first step. A regular board can be used to bend the sheet, and rivets should be used to secure the edges.

Take note! When determining where to place the pipe’s ceiling passage device, it’s important to consider both the location of the ceiling beams and the minimum recommended indentation.

A plumb line will help you to determine the center of the pipe passage. Preliminary markings are made to determine the location of the chimney and the position of the floor passage assembly. Then a hole is cut out over the chimney according to the points, taking into account that thermal insulation material will be used throughout the entire diameter. After making a passage hole in the ceiling and finishing its ends with insulating material, the box is fixed in it. Make sure that the metal parts of the box do not come into contact with wood and other combustible structural elements of the ceiling.Inside the box you can install a pair of metal spacers from a galvanized profile used in the installation of drywall – such spacers will give additional rigidity and help to securely fix the pipe:

See also:

How is a sauna ceiling made?

Vapor barrier in the ceiling

How to build a log ceiling in a bathroom

How can a pipe passageway be made through the bathhouse ceiling?

The limit of the eurowagging

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Choice of insulation material

A wide range of thermal insulators with varying technical attributes and potential price differences characterize the building materials market today. When wiring a sandwich pipe through the ceiling and roof, take into consideration the primary materials that are used for thermal insulation purposes:

Wool made of mineral or basalt. Sandwich pipes are frequently installed using these materials. These insulators have a maximum temperature tolerance of 600 °C. Let’s examine the primary drawbacks of mineral wool and basalt:

• Such materials are not environmentally friendly and may cause harm to human health. When heated, such wools emit harmful substances – formaldehyde;
• mineral and basalt wool have a rather poor coefficient of water resistance. When they get wet, they lose their protective qualities.
• over time, the wool can liquefy and lose its thermal insulation characteristics.

Enlarged clay. High insulating qualities are what define it. Unlike mineral wool, expanded clay rapidly regains its protective qualities when condensate forms and gets wet. One drawback of this type of material is that when installing through assemblies, specific containers are needed.

While there are a variety of materials available for partition insulation, it is best to select those that won’t be harmful to human health.

Minerite. Such insulating material is composed of different mineral additives, cellulose, and cement. Minerite can withstand temperatures as high as 600 °C. When wet, it maintains its insulating qualities, and when heated, it doesn’t release any harmful carcinogens.

Asbestos. Although asbestos itself has a high thermal insulation value, heat causes it to release carcinogens. Experts advise against using asbestos as insulation unless absolutely necessary.

Clay or sand. Long before there were contemporary heat insulators on the market, such materials were in use. Although these natural materials’ thermal insulation qualities are not as good as those of specially made contemporary insulators, some owners still choose to utilize natural materials for thermal insulation.

Choosing a thermal insulator

After the ceiling device is fixed, heat insulator must be added to the space between the beams and the chimney by going upstairs or into the attic.

If the pipe’s temperature doesn’t go above 600 degrees. Wool made of basalt can be used as insulation. Some experts advise against using this option, though. This is explained by the fact that they use resins as a binder during the manufacturing process, and when high temperatures are present, they release a lot of harmful formaldehyde pollutants. Additionally, condensate forms in the chimney. additionally, the wool’s ability to retain heat diminishes when it gets wet. As such, this is not the optimal choice.

Finely expanded claydite can be used to fill the void. It is a natural, light material that quickly regains its properties if it gets wet.

Sand was most frequently used up until recently. However, there is one major drawback in this instance: the material eventually seeps through tiny cracks, necessitating frequent cleaning and re-filling of the gap in the stove.

You are able to use clay. It needs to be diluted to the point where it becomes paste-like in order to accomplish this.

Certain experts advise against filling the node and instead advise against any insulation at all. By doing this, you can prevent the chimney from overheating and burning out. Nevertheless, since the wood will eventually dry out, this is not the best choice. and a fire could break out.

To prevent extreme overheating, there are multiple strategies.

1. A water jacket can be installed on the chimney. Heated water can be used for heating. In this case, you need to fix a special tank and make a water outlet from the pipes.
2. It is also possible to fix a simple tank in which the water will be heated. In this case, you need to make sure that the water does not boil, as well as timely drain and refill the water.

Consequently, the risk of fire ceiling materials will be eliminated and the temperature in the chimney will be greatly decreased. Using air to cool the chimney is an additional option. You must install an additional pipe in the chimney to accomplish this. and place grates to allow air to flow through at the top and bottom.

The usage of industrial assemblies is not required. You can make the device yourself.

• To cover the hole, cut a sheet of the required size from stainless steel.
• Make a circle in the middle, which is a couple of mm larger than the diameter of the chimney.
• In the ceiling to make a hole.
• The edges of the hole should be sealed with basalt wool.
• The thermal insulation layer is covered with metal strips.
• Next, you need to assemble the chimney pipe. The first elbow is attached to the stove, then the stainless steel sheet is installed.
• The chimney should pass only in a vertical position. In the attic, fix the chimney in the necessary position.
• Fix a special plate and between it and the slab to lay a thermal insulation layer. Then the plate is attached to the usual self-tapping screws.
• The passage must be insulated.

This option is straightforward and dependable all at once. Everyone will therefore be able to handle such a task. There are additional options for installing the partition, but implementing them will require some knowledge and expertise.

It is crucial to understand that the room’s fire safety determines whether or not the chimney can be installed through the ceiling. As a result, it’s essential to approach the installation responsibly.

If they lack confidence in their own skills, it is best to leave this work to the professionals, who will complete the installation quickly and to a high standard for a fee.

Related articles:

A chimney box Building a wooden house with a chimney Building a chimney on the roof Building a chimney through the wall

Metal chimney step-by-step process

Brick chimneys work best in bathhouses that have sauna heaters installed because fireproof brick holds heat for an extended period of time.

Many people are curious about how to finish the walls in the sauna that are next to the stove because these areas also require security.

In most cases, where the chimney meets the roof and ceiling, asbestos or galvanized steel sheets are utilized.

The walls close to the stove are additionally shielded by galvanized steel sheets.

Details. Iron sheets are highly prone to corrosion and should not be used as wall insulation around a red-hot stove.

The chimney configuration that poses the greatest risk of fire is one that uses metal pipe without a thermal insulation layer. In this instance, the minimum required distance between it and the closest combustible elements is 60 cm.

Crucial! You cannot avoid getting burned if you come into contact with the pipe’s surface, not even by keeping the recommended distance between it and combustible objects. For this reason, you should plan ahead and take precautions for your personal safety by installing a high-quality thermal insulation layer.

.. Using heat-resistant insulation to wrap the pipe is the most common and straightforward method of pipe insulation.

The most common type of insulation used for this purpose is basalt wool, which is covered from above by a metal sheet or plaster.

Using heat-resistant insulation to wrap a pipe is the most common and straightforward method of pipe insulation. Because of this, basalt wool—which is covered in a metal sheet or plaster—is most frequently used as insulation.

Insulation happens in the following ways:

1. The first thing you need to stock mineral wool boards, the thickness of which should be more than 5 mm. Next, the insulation material is used to completely wrap the pipe. The insulation is fixed with steel wire, which must also be wrapped around the pipe;
2. On top of the pipe, equipped with a thermal insulation layer, it is necessary to construct a reinforced grid. Next, a cement-limestone mortar is made, which is used to plaster the grid;
3. A metal sheet can be used instead of plaster.

This can be accomplished by rolling it around the insulated pipe and riveting the edges at the point of fastening.

Comfort and energy efficiency in your home depend on having adequate insulation and heating. Appropriate chimney installation is essential for the safe and efficient operation of bathhouses. The significance of properly conducting the chimney through ceiling partitioning in a bathroom has been discussed in this article.

First off, a properly installed chimney not only makes it easier for smoke to be expelled efficiently but also lowers the possibility of carbon monoxide accumulation, which can be dangerous for your health. A clear path for smoke to leave the bathhouse is created by correctly conducting the chimney through the ceiling partitioning, guaranteeing the safety of the occupants.

Additionally, proper chimney installation maximizes the efficiency of the heating system. In order to maximize warmth and comfort while in use, a properly conducted chimney makes sure that the heat produced by the stove or furnace is distributed throughout the bathhouse. In colder climates or during the winter, when proper heating is crucial, this is especially crucial.

Furthermore, the bathhouse’s overall insulation can be improved by a well-built chimney. Keep the bathhouse’s temperature more constant by caulking any openings or leaks in the ceiling partitioning that the chimney uses to escape heat. This lowers energy use and utility costs while also improving comfort.

In conclusion, a key component of bathhouse design and construction is appropriate chimney conduct through ceiling partitioning. It improves heating efficiency, guarantees safe smoke evacuation, and adds to overall insulation. Homeowners may make their bathhouse experience more comfortable, safe, and energy-efficient by attending to this small detail.

When installing insulation and heating in your home, it’s important to divide the ceiling to accommodate a bathroom with careful consideration for the location of the chimney. The proper placement of the chimney, which maximizes ventilation and heat distribution, is ensured by a well-designed ceiling partition. Placing your heating system correctly maximizes its efficiency by preventing drafts and heat loss. You can save energy and promote safety in your bathroom by strategically placing the ceiling partition while still creating a warm and inviting space.

Video on the topic

How to mount a sauna stove and chimney safely

Chimney in a bathhouse

How to conduct the Pipe in the bath. Through the ceiling and roof