Wood -wooden corner fireplace: choose an option, create with our own hands

Few things match the coziness and charm of a wood-burning fireplace when it comes to creating a warm and inviting ambiance in your house. Not only do they supply warmth on cold nights, but they also function as a gathering place and a place to unwind. In case you’re thinking about giving your living area a hint of rustic elegance, creating a wooden corner fireplace for yourself could be the ideal undertaking.

Wooden corner fireplaces are aesthetically pleasing and add character to any room while fitting neatly into confined spaces. A well-designed wood fireplace can improve the ambience of your entire house, whether you’re looking to improve the feel of your living room, bedroom, or even a study nook. Additionally, every time you curl up by the fire, you’ll feel even more proud and accomplished because you built it yourself.

Selecting the ideal design for your wooden corner fireplace is crucial to making sure it fits your heating requirements and blends in with the interior decor of your house. There are numerous options to fit every style preference, ranging from sleek modern finishes to classic brick and stone surrounds. When choosing your design, take into account elements like the room’s dimensions, the color scheme that already exists, and the overall aesthetic you hope to accomplish.

Not only can you personalize every element of the design when you build a wooden corner fireplace yourself, but it’s also less expensive than buying a prefabricated unit. Without going over budget, you can make a gorgeous centerpiece for your house with the right supplies and a little imagination. In addition, building it yourself can be a really fulfilling experience that gives you a sense of pride and control over your living area.

The main elements of the fireplace

The corner fireplace’s design will always include the following components, regardless of how unique it is:

  • Topka;
  • ash;
  • grate;
  • portal (case);
  • chimney.

Topka

In the fireplace, she can be either closed or open. The efficiency of heat transfer remains unaffected by this. The following components are required to perform a fireplace with a closed furnace: a transparent glass gate or door made of heat-resistant glass.

The transparent, heat-resistant glass doors on the fireplace and gate play a significant part in how long they operate.

Give the supplies that will be used to make it. While the firebox needs to be constructed out of chamotal (a heat-resistant material), the exterior of the fireplace can be constructed with regular brick.

The completed cast-iron furnace will simplify the process and drastically cut down on the amount of time needed to masonry the fireplace. It will be sufficient to build a large chimney and cover the cast-iron furnace with red brick to give the building a chic, authentic appearance.

To increase the metal’s surface area in contact with the flames, some stovers line the interior of the completed cast-iron firebox with chamomile bricks. When using a steel furnace, this particular moment is crucial.

A fireplace tooth still exists as a component of the fireplace’s design. This tiny camera is situated beneath a 20 0 slope on the furnace’s back.

The size of the loaded area, which measures 12.15 or 18 cm depending on the overall size of the furnace chamber, is situated between the ledge and the cladding. A high-speed mixture of furnace gases and cold air is passed by a fireplace tooth.

As hot gas comes into contact with the smoke collection’s walls, it starts to cool and sink. As a result, the pipe’s gas flow becomes turbulent.

Movement of gas in the fireplace (both with and without a tooth)

Smoke may "freeze" if the furnace’s combustion process is not very vigorous. This is what the fireplace tooth is meant to avoid.

An inflated fireplace portal can also be a hindrance to good traction. However, if you speed up the hot gas in the furnace’s upper chamber, this can be prevented. As a result, air will leak into the upper portion of the portal from the room.

A fireplace tooth, which is a tiny ledge that allows the gas stream at the top of the firebox to squeeze, can help solve this issue.

Ash (or blown)

Due to the intense log combustion in the fireplace, a significant amount of ash is produced and lowered into a dedicated ash chamber beneath the firebox. We need good traction in order for the fireplace fire to flare up nicely and provide heat.

Air cannot enter the fire when it is clogged with furnace chamber ash.

This is particularly crucial if you plan to use firewood from soft trees, which are the most common.

There’s a funny little camera beneath the furnace grate.

This camera comes in two different designs: one with a door and the other with a drawer shaped like a box.

The ash chamber does, however, perform more than just clearing combustion products from the air. Oxygen is supplied to the fire through the blown, ensuring intense burning.

The blower door aids in regulating the fire’s intensity and traction. The flame gets stronger when it opens. As a result, the firewood in the fireplace will slowly smolder and the closed door will prevent access to the fire.

In the event that the fireplace’s design does not indicate that the ash chamber has a door, the furnace chamber’s base needs to be slightly angled to prevent ash from being disturbed and released outside.

However, not every fireplace has ash in it. The firewood will burn to the ground if the chimney pipe is high and has good traction. In this instance, the furnace chamber will be used to clean the fireplace directly.

This component is also skipped if the furnace chamber is situated very low, at the gender itself, and there is no way to operate the ash camera in the basement.

The following work processes take place in the fireplace:

  • logs and firewood are laid down a metal grate and set fire to.
  • The combustion intensity is controlled by a gate damper that opens or blocks access to oxygen. With the open type of firebox, the combustion intensity can only be adjusted by the number of firewood.
  • As the firewood is burned, the ash is assembled under the grate, in a special ash, which must be regularly cleaned.
  • Combustion products are excreted through the chimney.

Chimney

Combustion products are shown via this structural component. It can be constructed out of steel or brick. Additionally, ready-made ceramic structures assembled from separate parts can be found in stores.

Potamist production skyrocketing

It is crucial to follow basic fire safety precautions when building a wood fireplace’s chimney, as well as to insulate the pipe passages through the wall and roof well.

The stoves divide chimneys into three categories:

The chimney is referred to as the wall if it is installed inside the structure or capital wall. It overlaps the walls but is otherwise a single whole.

However, the fireplace (furnace) and the root chimney are two distinct components. It has a handle sleeve connecting it to the main structure. There may be multiple of these sleeves depending on how many stoves and fireplaces are connected in a radical chimney pipe.

The chimney’s native pipe

Therefore, the indigenous (remote) pipe serves as a central component for the combustion products’ output, and large homes with numerous rooms frequently employ this type of system. This enables you to add multiple fireplaces to the home without detracting from its external design. Since there will only be one in this situation.

The case is placed on the oversized red brick sleeve that is attached to a distant pipe. One sleeve’s length shouldn’t go over two meters to avoid traction issues and potential reductions in the fireplace’s efficacy.

A special treatment door is used to remove soot from the sleeve. Additionally, the handle is raised by 10 0 in the direction of the gases in order to maximize the thrust.

It is necessary to consider the same moment when building nozzles to allow the chimney to pass through the wall.

The only appropriate course of action in the event that the fireplace is situated in an area where a vertical chimney cannot be derived is to build a chimney, with the exit going through the wall and out onto the street.

In addition, horizontal sections should be kept to a minimum and elevated at a 10 0 angle to ensure proper traction.

However, it is not possible to install the pipe in the attic because condensation from a significant temperature difference may occur, increasing the risk of a fire.

Stovers most frequently use the nozzle pipe when building a fireplace. She lies back on the mantel. But the thickness of the furnace walls needs to be at least ½ brick, if not more, in order for the stove (fireplace) to support the weight of the chimney.

The pipe has a minimum cross section of ½ * ½ brick.

A rally is yet another essential component of the chimneine pipe. This is the chimney’s expansion where it goes through the overlap of the attic.

Why is this location where the pipe needs to be enlarged?

By doing this, wooden ceilings will be kept from overheating. This is accomplished by spreading the debris to a thickness of one brick (or 1.5 bricks) and isolating it with asbestos felt or a sheet impregnated with a clay solution.

The entire gap between the cutting and the attic floor needs to be filled with concrete or another non-combustible material.

The riser is the pipe that goes through the overlap in the attic.

"Otter" is the name of another significant component in the chimney’s design. When the pipe was taken out through the roof, it slightly expanded. Otter serves as a rain shield for the attic from the outside elements.

Fire safety measures when laying an angular fireplace

  • A separate base should be built under a brick fireplace. It is better to separate the foundation from the main one at the construction stage, but if the fireplace project is implemented already in the operated house, then you will have to remove part of the flooring, buried in the ground and build a separate foundation.

The foundation is constructed independently.

Basic rules when laying an angular wood fireplace

  • The fireplace is installed on the base made of chamotis brick.
  • Between the firebox and the cladding, in no case should you carry out a dressing. Otherwise, when heated, the outer part cracks.

Not wearing clothes

Regarding fire safety when using the fireplace, there are a few guidelines that you must follow as well:

  • Do not bring the fireplace to the maximum temperature.
  • Provide the safe distance between the fireplace and objects that easily ignite (at least 65-70 cm).
  • Carry out systematic cleaning of the fireplace from ash and soot.

Before construction begins, the size of the fireplace must be accurately calculated to ensure proper room heating.

His size influences:

  • total area of the room;
  • feature of the installation site;
  • The output of the chimney (through the wall or through the roof).

Features of corner fireplaces

The corner fireplace ranked first among the various styles of fireplaces. In addition to looking great inside, this kind of fireplace can conserve space.

With a corner fireplace, you can highlight your personal style and create a special, warm atmosphere in your home.

Their neat appearance, compact design, and high thermal efficiency set them apart.

This fireplace’s shape is frequently used to zone a space, particularly if it’s big.

The corner fireplace’s shape allows it to blend in flawlessly with the interior design of any room. The angular structure’s ease of installation and uniqueness are without a doubt its advantages.

When building, the following elements must be considered in order to maximize the effectiveness of the corner wood fireplace.

Open firebox in a corner fireplace

  • It should be shallow and at the same time wide. Then the heat transfer area will be maximum.
  • To increase thermal efficiency, various elements are added to the design of wood fireplaces: heat shields, air casing, etc.D. Heating, they give additional heat.
  • The laying of the fireplace does not have to be even. Some bricks can act – this does not affect the heat transfer.
  • To increase the efficiency of heat transfer, it is not recommended to perform a too massive facing layer.

However, keep in mind that the corner wood fireplace serves primarily as decoration, regardless of how big, strong, and fashionable it is. Therefore, using it as the primary heat source is not going to work.

Cast-iron firebox in a corner fireplace

A good heating system is present in a cottage or house located in the northern or eastern regions of the country.

The design solution states that corner fireplaces can be embellished in:

  • Modern style;
  • country;
  • classic.

The traditional English corner fireplace is designed in the shape of a "P." Red brick or ceramic tiles are typically used for cladding.

However, they typically select the shape of the letter "D" for the nation. There is a wooden beam in the upper section of the building.

Smooth forms are a defining feature of modern style. This choice will look great in any space.

In the world of heating and insulation for your home, nothing quite adds warmth and charm like a wooden corner fireplace. When it comes to choosing the right option, or even crafting one with your own hands, there are several key factors to consider. From the type of wood used to the design that fits your space best, each decision impacts not only the aesthetic appeal but also the efficiency and functionality of your fireplace. Whether you"re drawn to the classic elegance of oak or the rustic charm of reclaimed timber, understanding the ins and outs of wooden corner fireplaces is essential for creating a cozy focal point in your home that brings both beauty and practicality.

We draw a project of the corner fireplace

Prior to beginning the building of a corner fireplace in the home, a thorough project plan and drawing must be completed. All structural components should be reflected in the drawing, and the dimensions are fixed.

Make sure to quickly determine how much more material and how much power the fireplace will require if you wish to increase its dimensions.

The laying scheme that follows shows how the furnace chamber dealer will start with the sixth row. Depending on your preferences and the intended use of the fireplace, you can modify this design slightly.

If the primary function of the corner fireplace is to heat the space, it is necessary to operate the firebox low in order to draw in cold air from below and warm the floor.

You can elevate the furnace above the floor if the fireplace’s primary function is decorative.

We calculate the size of the top -down chamber

The size of the room will determine the fireplace’s dimensions, so the table below will show you how to determine the structure’s measurements accurately.

The room needs to be divided into 50 equal sections.

Proper measurements for the fireplace furnace

This value will indicate the approximate location of the furnace chamber opening.

For instance, a furnace with a width of 0.5 m 2 must be built into a fireplace for a typical room (20–25 kV meters).

Regarding the overall measurements of the structure, a width to height ratio of 3:1 is optimal.

The fuel’s depth is crucial, as was already mentioned. It will directly affect how efficiently the heating works. Follow the approximate ratios listed below: the fuel depth is equal to 1/3 or ½ of the furnace’s height.

The fireplace’s size needs to be able to withstand certain proportions.

Consider that the room’s ability to be heated effectively will be greatly reduced if you choose to increase the furnace chamber’s depth and volume for aesthetic reasons.

We calculate the size of the chimney

Since the thrust will directly depend on the chimney’s size, it is equally important to calculate it correctly.

The cross section of the pipe in the amount of 1/10 from the furnace chamber input area is the ideal ratio.

Take a diameter of at least 150 mm if the chimney has a round cross section (for instance, if you use a chimney to construct sandwiches).

The distance between the skate and the chimney’s location on the roof

The thrust will be much less with a smaller diameter.

The chimney should be at least five meters high. Of course, the house will need to be raised if it is two or three stories high. Here, it will be important to pay attention to where the roof’s skate is located.

The chimney’s output patterns that are centered on the location of the roof ridge are shown below.

What materials are best used for laying a fireplace?

You will need two different types of bricks to lay a fireplace: red full-bodied and chamomile.

Red brick will be used for the exterior of the building, and a furnace chamber made of heat-resistant chamotis brick will be required.

Red brick and chamotte

You also require a unique panting solution, which is composed of clay and fine river sand.

Of course, a pre-finished dry mixture for stove installation can be purchased from a building supply store. After that, all that needs to be done is dilute it with the appropriate amount of water and stir, following the directions.

Another option is to come up with the solution on your own. Red River Clay and sand are needed for this. The caliber of the clay used will directly affect the strength of the entire fireplace structure and the quality of the solution.

For this reason, a lot of seasoned stovers favor the choice of producing the solution on their own. So you can select a clay that satisfies the technical requirements to the greatest extent possible.

Red clay, which is soft and plastic, has special properties that allow it to be heated and turn into a durable stone. The percentage of fat in clay is one of the key markers of its quality. Clay that is "skinny" has the potential to crack when heated.

Good fat absorbs the strength of the brick after firing and can withstand extremely high temperatures. However, it must be made sure that every ingredient is used in the exact right proportion for it to be truly strong and dependable in holding the masonry.

You can add Portland cement of the M300 brand to your pantry for added strength.

The solution is made "by eye," meaning there are no perfect proportions; instead, it depends on the clay’s quality and fat content.

Here, attention must be drawn to the appearance and the way it is recruited to the hem.

The density of the solution should be medium.

The mixture should not drip from the trowel and have the consistency of thick homemade sour cream. It ought to be grain-free and homogeneous. Work the solution well with a fork.

Pay heed. The clay solution should only be used for fireplace installation. Cement mortar is used to construct chimneine pipes and foundations.

Kamina masonry: diagram

When determining the ideal size for the fireplace structure, pay attention to the standard fuel chamber entry ratio of 3:1:2.

Corner fireplace (all-purpose masonry design)

A significant loss of heat will be seen if the fuel chamber is made extremely deep because the heat will pass through the chimney and accumulate in the furnace.

Simultaneously, the fuel chamber depth must not be reduced excessively, as this could lead to a smoke-filled room.

We have already discussed installing a tiny corner fireplace in earlier articles. We present here a comprehensive plan for building an Annushka corner fireplace "for embroidery" in a red brick home.

The base measures 89 by 89 centimeters.

161 centimeters tall (without the chimney).

From the supplies you will need to buy:

  1. Shamotnaya fireproof brick for a furnace chamber (not lower than M200) – 55 pieces.
  2. Red ceramic brick for the whole fireplace. – 356 pcs (not counting the pipes). You can additionally take 10% of the total, taking into account marriage and errors.
  3. The solution for laying the foundation (cement, sand of small fraction, gravel and water).
  4. Brick layer.
  5. Roofing material for waterproofing the foundation.
  6. Boards for the construction of formwork.
  7. Smoke smoke 250 x 130 – 1 pcs.
  8. Steel corner 50 x 50 x 5 x 600 – 1 pc.
  9. Steel corner 50 x 50 x 5 x 800 – 2 pcs.
  10. Steel sheet 3 x 400 x 600 mm – 1 pcs.
  11. Metal rods and wire for reinforcement.
  12. Metal wire 0.8 mm for dressing.

Using the tools, get ready:

Masonry equipment

  1. Landmark for masonry bricks.
  2. Roulette and marker.
  3. Rule.
  4. Construction mixer or drill with nozzle.
  5. Rubber hammer for masonry bricks.
  6. Brick.
  7. String.
  8. Building level, angular and plumb.
  9. Stapler.
  10. Soviet and bayonet shovel.
  11. A bucket for the solution.
  12. Building hammer for formwork.

The construction of the foundation

It is essential to create a separate foundation for the fireplace due to the size of the corner structure.

The following is the work order:

  • Marking on the floor of size under the fireplace.
  • Removing part of the flooring in accordance with the size of the fireplace.
  • Soil excavation to the depth of freezing. This is usually 60-70 cm. Use a bayonet shovel for these works.
  • From old boards or plywood we create a formwork that represents a wooden frame. We fasten with nails or screws.
  • Waterproofing of formwork. To do this, lay a layer of roofing material along the perimeter of the formwork.

The foundation’s waterproofing

We fortify the base.

Wall protection from heating

Several fire actions are required to prevent the walls from overheating because of the fireplace’s corner design and tight fit against the wall.

There are two ways to go about this:

  • Attach the reflecting foil screen to the wall using self -tapping screws. The size of this screen is 1*2 meters. In this case, take into account the size of your fireplace, the upper part of the screen should go beyond the highest point of the fireplace by 30 cm.
  • With the help of ceramic tiles, you can create a beautiful protective screen, which perfectly fits into the overall interior of the room and emphasize the beauty of the fireplace.

It is advised to place a protective layer, such as ceramic tiles, 15-20 cm in front of the furnace base if the clean floor is near the fireplace.

Preparation of materials for laying

You need to divide the bricks into ½ or ¼ of the part and give a lot of stares because of the intricate design of the fireplace’s corner.

How can I do it correctly?

It is preferable to split the bricks in the prescribed order right away. Mark the front side of the brick with a marker and create a groove before separating the necessary portion of it.

Hacking bricks at the proper angle

In this instance, one longitudinal groove is sufficient for ½ brick. We drill grooves on all sides of the brick to break 1/6 or 1/8 brick.

Choose all of the brick that you will be working with at this time, lower it into the water, and let it absorb as much moisture as possible before beginning any masonry work.

Brick pantry needs to be thoroughly wet before work begins.

The strength of the masonry may be harmed if you lay dry brick since it will start to absorb moisture from the pantry.

Suggestions. Take your time and don’t grab a fireplace right away. Disassemble the order first, then arrange each row "on dry." Each row’s brick should be undermined before being arranged in groups on the ground. In order to prevent making grave errors that will be challenging to correct, you can see all the intricate locations that you will need to visit.

The laying of the fireplace

Measure the roofing material sheet and place it on the ground before attaching the base. It will serve the purpose of providing waterproofing.

Counseling! Use wooden rails that are the same thickness as the seam to create perfectly even seams. Place the brick over the railing. Put the second row in and apply the solution. Remove the rail once it has dried. Make sure there are enough rails for two rows by planning the number of them. You will be able to retrieve and use a wooden device from the first row by the time you have completed the third row.

  • 1 row is laid out continuous, according to the scheme of the order. The size of the base will be 90*90 cm. Using the construction level, check the diagonally how exactly you have laid out the bricks. The first row has a rectangular shape.

One row

Counseling! Pull on the four sheer threads that fasten to the ceiling to prevent the stove from being removed. They’ll function as stove beacons of sorts.

  • The 2nd row is also laid out continuous, but already lays the corner shape of the structure. Please note that its 2 sides have sizes 89*89 cm. Follow the thickness of the seams.

Two rows

Take note of the shapes of the bricks; they are all different. You ought to have already broken them up into suitable pieces, placed them "on dry," and given each one a number during the preparatory phase.

    3 row we begin to form a niche for firewood, located under the fireplace.

Three rows

Four rows and a corner

Five rows

Six rows

It should be noted that the chamotis brick in this row is also not entirely whole. It must first be made ready. Fuel starts to form in the seventh row. Chamotis brick is used to lay out the walls of the fuel. Don’t forget to leave a 3–4 mm space between regular and heat-resistant bricks.

Seven rows

8–10 rows

Tooth formation in 11 rows

Eleven rows

12–13 rows

14 rows

Fifteen rows

Sixteen rows

17 rows

Eighteen rows

19 rows

20 rows

21 rows

22 rows

Rows 23–24

Rows 25–27

28-row

Rows 29–30

Facing work

Facing, the last step, serves more purposes than just aesthetics. The plaster’s ongoing coloring, fireplace maintenance, and other tasks are made easier by the facing layer.

If you purchased a stunning red brick, the fireplace can be built "under the latch" at first. In a wooden house, the classic fireplace will become one of the most exquisite decorative features in the living room.

Superior cladding will strengthen the entire structure while serving as a protective layer. Depending on interior design and taste, ceramic tiles or artificial stone can be utilized as a facing layer.

A hearth for an expanding

If you’ve decided to use artificial stone as cladding, you’ll need a unique glue blend that can withstand high temperatures.

The same solution that you laid the fireplace with can be applied here. The excess solution must be removed right away to avoid making cleaning the stone’s surface more challenging.

Plaster performance with subsequent coloring is a very affordable and straightforward option that enables the realization of exquisite decorative elements. This option will have the benefit of being simple to use, and the paint can always be changed or refreshed if desired.

The sole drawback of this choice is the plaster surface’s sensitivity to impacts, so it is preferable to lay brick or artificial stone for the fireplace.

You can add a safety screen to the fireplace to improve security while it’s in use.

You can either build one yourself or buy one already completed from the store.

Sparks are kept off the floor covering with a decorative protective grate. The simplest method is to construct a steel frame out of two steel pipe segments joined in the shape of a "T."

About 60–70% of the hearth should be closed by such a screening. In addition to serving as protection, the screen’s placement at this height won’t obstruct logs being thrown into the furnace.

The screen’s lower portion is secured to the stand, preventing it from falling or swinging.

You can use non-combustible material or heat-resistant glass as the screen itself.

Vimulation of the fireplace

After finishing the chimney system and all facing work, we move on to the initial trapping of the fireplace. It is preferable to wait a few days so that all cement and adhesive solutions have time to thoroughly dry.

  • Take a small amount of small firewood or brushwood and put in the furnace camera.
  • Do not give a strong heat of the furnace right away, warm up gradually.

You will receive a fantastic corner fireplace if you carefully follow the preceding step-by-step directions and do not deviate from the planned sequence.

Open hearth

You’ll actually start to create the hearth. locations where the entire family congregates to rest, share news, and enjoy a cup of fragrant tea. A distinct ambiance of cozy living can be produced by a flickering fire in an open hearth and thoughtful firewood crackling.

Selecting a wooden corner fireplace for your house can bring coziness, charm, and a hint of rustic elegance. Before making your choice, there are a number of things to take into account, including whether you’re more drawn to the comforting crackle of a real wood fire or the practicality of a gas or electric alternative that replicates the look.

First, consider the area in which you want to put the fireplace. A corner fireplace is a creative way to make the most of the available space in smaller spaces or to draw attention to a particular area in larger ones. Take into account the room’s measurements, the furniture arrangement, and the fireplace’s integration into the overall design theme.

Choose the kind of wood you wish to use for your fireplace next. Regarding durability, heat efficiency, and appearance, various woods have unique qualities. While softwoods like pine ignite quickly but may need more frequent refueling, hardwoods like oak and maple burn slower and produce more heat.

Why not attempt creating your own wooden corner fireplace if you’re in the mood for some creativity and adventure? By using the appropriate equipment, supplies, and do-it-yourself skills, you can create a fireplace that is uniquely personalized and harmonizes with your interior design. Just remember to abide by safety regulations and seek professional advice when necessary.

A wooden corner fireplace can improve the atmosphere of your house and create a comfortable gathering area for family and friends to enjoy, whether you decide to build one yourself or buy a pre-made one. Thus, take your time, consider your options, and get cozy as you enjoy the beauty and coziness of a roaring fire.

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Michael Kuznetsov

I love to create beauty and comfort with my own hands. In my articles I share tips on warming the house and repairing with my own hands.

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