Popular masonry schemes for stoves

Having a dependable heating system is essential to keeping your house warm and comfortable during the cold months. Stoves are among the most reliable and conventional ways to accomplish this. For centuries, stoves have been a mainstay in homes, offering not only warmth but also a cozy and inviting atmosphere. However, for maximum efficiency and safety, pick the appropriate masonry scheme for your stove.

For stoves, there are several common masonry designs, each with benefits and things to keep in mind. There are many options available, ranging from straightforward brick enclosures to more complex designs. Making an informed choice that meets both your heating requirements and aesthetic tastes can be aided by having a solid understanding of the various schemes that are available.

The traditional brick surround is one masonry design that is in demand. Homeowners favor this classic design because of its strength and ability to hold heat. The brick surround gives the room a rustic charm while serving as a sturdy enclosure for the stove. Bricks also have superior thermal qualities, which aid in distributing the heat produced by the stove throughout the room.

The surround with stone veneer is another popular masonry design. Stone veneer provides the appearance and texture of real stone without the heavy cost or bulk. Design flexibility is increased with this option because stone veneer is available in a wide range of colors and textures to accommodate any aesthetic preference. Stone veneer is also a practical option for homeowners who want to improve the aesthetics of their stove because it is easier to install than traditional stone.

A tile surround can be the ideal option for people who want something sleeker and more contemporary. Numerous styles, hues, and patterns are available for tiles, providing countless customizing options. Tile surrounds are a great option for busy homes because they are not only aesthetically pleasing but also simple to clean and maintain. Tiles provide durability and versatility for your stove enclosure, regardless of your preference for a bold statement piece or a minimalist design.

Traditional Masonry Stove	Efficient Heating
Russian Stove	Slow, Even Heating

10 basic rules for laying a summer house

1. The brick used for masonry must be soaked in water for 5-6 hours so that it absorbs moisture well and does not take it from a cement mortar.
2. Having decided on the place of placement of the furnace, be sure to carry out all fire safety measures for its further operation. This is especially true for houses with wooden ceilings. Choosing a place for construction If the stove is planned to be placed in the corner of the room, perform an apron from sheet metal or ceramic tiles around.
3. During the masonry, follow the thickness of the seam. It should be 5 mm. We make the seams thin
4. Constantly use the horizontal level to be sure of the correct masonry.
5. Tighten the four corners of the ribbons from the threads so that the stove during the masonry does not go to the side. Pull the plumb line in the corners
6. If you feel that you can’t collect the stove in 1 day, do not knead the entire solution at once.
7. The foundation for the furnace is performed separately from the main.
8. At all stages of installation of metal fittings, take into account the gap for thermal expansion. Put the grate not on the solution, but in the grooves of bricks. She must freely act and get out of the furnace.
9. To ensure good traction and exclude the formation of condensate, execute a short gas output path (summer move). Gaza enters the chimney through this path. After the stove is well flared up, the damper is closed and it “works” not for heating, but allows you to cook food.
10. Start leading each row from the corner.

Pantry brick

Choosing the right building materials, especially brick, for the construction of a do-it-yourself stove is essential to ensuring that it is long-lasting and functional. This decision affects the structure’s thermophysical qualities, which give your house comfort, in addition to its strength and longevity.

Selecting high-quality materials is particularly crucial if you intend to install the stove "Swede." The "Dutch" have less stringent standards for the quality of their masonry solutions and bricks.

Brick stoves were originally made entirely of red clay brick, but today there are two varieties in use:

• Red ceramic brands 150;
• Fireproof chamotnaya.

The stove’s brick size and standard construction were different in the past. The stove stone had dimensions of 230 x 114 x 40 mm or 230 x 114 x 65 mm if the single construction’s dimensions were 250 x 125 x 65 mm. These days, sizes have been unified for convenience, so the decision is essentially based on assessing the material’s quality. The following suggestions are for the procurement of the material used to make brick masonry in heating furnaces:

• Stones should be purchased one size.
• You can not use hollow brick, and even more silicate. You need only a full -bodied ceramic stone.
• For facing masonry, it is better to take stones with a decorative texture if it is not planned to finish the walls additionally with a tile or other facing material.
• In the combustion chamber, the masonry of brick should be refractory, from chamotis stone.

The correct completion of the masonry of the wood stove for the summer residence

The laying of the street furnace is almost completed, but several technological points are left. Golsnik bars and grates should be located below the top opening of 7-14 mm. Between the grille and the masonry of wood furnaces around the entire perimeter, a gap of at least 5-10 mm should be left, filling it with ash or sand so that the expanding metal does not damage the masonry when heated. When laying golst grates, it is recommended to follow a tilt towards the door by 2-3 cm, which will provide rolling of unbroken fuel from the posterior wall to the lattice. The slots of the lattice must be placed along the fuel (from the door to the back wall).

The ideal way to lay cast iron slabs for kitchen foci is level upon a thin layer of clay solution.

When the furnace is laid properly, the building must be dried naturally or, in the worst situation, artificially. All of the valves should be open at all times during the drying process. Closing the pipe requires a thunderstorm. This kind of drying takes ten to twelve days.

Artificial desiccation proceeds more quickly. In order to achieve this, you must gradually add more dry fuel to the furnace, such as chips, shavings, straws, and finely chopped firewood. It is not permitted to dry the furnace by burning a lot of firewood right away because the masonry can be destroyed by the water in the brick turning to steam.

Twenty to twenty-five percent of what is required for a typical firebox should not be used for the first fuel lay. D. Up to the complete norm. For the second firebox, the fuel volume can be increased to 30–40%, for the third, up to 60–70%, etc. Every furnace device should be open after each firebox, and the outside temperature shouldn’t be higher than 50–60 °C.

When raw spots stop forming on the furnace’s surface and there are no more signs of condensate on the valve, the stove’s laying for cottage and drying is deemed to be finished.

Features of the design of the furnace

The design of a traditional brick furnace is rather straightforward. On the other hand, the initially apparent makes it possible for simplicity to achieve extremely high performance and efficiency indicators.

The fuel and chimney are the two primary components of the brick furnace case. In addition, slabs and/or ovens can be added to burners, and a water heater tank can be installed.

Russian furnace schematic

The furnace unit’s primary component is the fuel. Firewood and other fuel used for heating are loaded into it. The fuel can come in the widest range of sizes. Several crucial considerations should be made when determining appropriate dimensions, such as:

• Type of fuel used. If you drown the stove with wood, make a fuel 50-100 cm high;
• required performance;
• necessary volume.

Refractory bricks are used to outfit the fuel. The walls of the building under consideration must be at least half as thick as the brick.

Another essential component of any heating furnace is the chimney. The purpose of the chimney is to remove various hazardous inclusions that are formed in furnace gases while the furnace is operating.

Guidelines for building a chimney out of brick

When designing the chimney, make an effort to consider every aspect so that there are as few bends and turns as possible. The chimney should ideally be entirely vertical. Any kind of bend will cause the traction to deteriorate and the room’s heating efficiency to drop.

The ash camera is one of the key components of the brick furnace’s construction. This compartment will hold the ash collection. Additionally, the air supply to the fuel inside the unit is guaranteed by the ash. The ash chamber has a door of its own and is outfitted beneath the grate. Typically, the ash is three bricks high.

Varieties of furnace structures

The stone stove remains relevant even after so much time has passed since the first furnace structures appeared and even after housing technologies have advanced. It is more cost-effective when compared to alternative heating methods like gas or electricity. Thick stone walls also help you maintain heat even a day after burning firewood.

The furnaces are separated into the following categories based on their intended use:

• heating;
• hob;
• multifunctional;
• Combined.

1. The heating structure is perhaps the simplest and most common. As the name understands, the function of such a furnace is aimed only at heating. A stove with a hob is mainly chosen such a stove for dachas where there is electricity and a slab is used for cooking. Either the owners of the house want to create a special country comfort with a stove-stone stove. The design of such a furnace consists of:

• a top -down chamber, which is already purchased in the finished form, or is laid out with chamotis brick;
• ash where the ashes gather;
• chimney.

A fireplace featuring an open or closed firebox can be found in the same kind of building. In addition to being aesthetically pleasing, it provides efficient heating for a room up to 15-20 kV. meters.

Different materials, wall thicknesses, and masonry designs can affect the heat return on heating furnaces.

One brick masonry designs are the most common type of furnace. This enables you to reach 600C for the walls. This plan is used to arrange famous Gollanders.

The heating furnace’s dimensions can be wide and dressed or extended into a rectangular shape. Everything is dependent upon the room’s dimensions, the owners’ tastes, and the interior design.

Decorative stone, decorative plaster, or tile are typically used to face these kinds of furnaces.

Brick heating furnaces designed like a trilateral prism have a very fashionable and unique appearance, but due to the extensive experience required, this option will not be realized. The bricks’ tightening and the specifications for rigorously withstanding the angle at 600 present significant challenges.

Round stoves that are arranged in the stove in the stove in the stove in accordance with the well-known Russian engineer’s plan.Grizhimaylo, E. Free gas movement is the basis for the stove’s operation. Sheet metal is wrapped around the outside of the structure to guarantee tightness. Such a stove becomes a true decoration for any home and is capable of heating a large country mansion.

1. Hob. This option is advisable to choose for a summer residence, where the owners are only in the summer period. In this case, the heating of the house is not needed, and if you equip the structure with an additional tank for water, it will serve not only for cooking, but also allow you to create comfortable living conditions. The hob is often this option is installed in suburban cottages, where gas and electric heating is provided, but in order to save resources, the owners sometimes use a brick stove.

The furnace’s design consists of a brick case with a furnace chamber, ashes, and a chimney inside. On top is a metal slab that can be used to build an oven.

1. The heating-welding furnace already refers to multifunctional structures.

This project is more challenging to implement because it entails:

• top chamber;
• chimney;
• ash;
• hob;
• oven.

The massive-looking stove is typically installed in summer cottages when no other heating option is available.

The most common types of stoves in our nation are those for heating and welding, which enable the home to score and prepare a delectable lunch for the entire family.

It can also have a drying room where you can prepare summertime blanks like berries, fruits, and mushrooms. You can quickly and safely dry clothes and shoes in this cell during chilly and inclement weather.

Stove with a dry chamber

Ironically, the first drying camera stoves were created in the North Scandinavian countries, where fishermen and hunters needed to dry their boots and clothing in a single night.

Numerous designs for heating and welding furnaces include extra components like a cozy bed, firewood drying, an oven, and a water tank.

Overall furnace device, drawing

The furnace’s design is not very complicated.

Building blocks of a brick oven

The firebox, or camera, is located in the brick massif and has a door where the fuel burns (see positions 8 and 9 in the figure). There is a grate (pos. 7) in the bottom portion of it, which is used to hold fuel and allow air to enter the furnace. Another camera, known as an ashrian or blower, is located beneath the grates and is likewise secured with a door (pos. 4 and 6). The furnace receives air from the outside through this door, which also serves to remove any ash that falls into it.

Smoke gases enter Heilo (pos. 11), an incline channel that faces the front wall, through the aperture close to the posterior wall. Heilo finishes with a nozzle that narrows. A P-shaped channel known as a gas convector follows this (pos. 16).

The air traveling through a particular channel inside the furnace is heated by the walls of the gas convector. The air convector is the name given to this channel (pos. 14). At his output (pos. 18), a door has been installed; it is closed during the summer.

The components of the chimney are as follows:

• Certificate door (pos. 12): through it, they clean the smoke exhaust channel;
• Ground valve for tuning the combustion mode (pos. 15);
• Vyushka (pos. 17): It also represents a valve, through which after the kindling, when the entire carbon monoxide has already disappeared, the chimney is blocked in order to hold the heat.

Cutting refers to the thermal insulation around the chimney in the area where the roof and attic meet (pos. 23). The thickness of the walls of the chimney is greater where they overlap. Such a bruise is regarded as cutting and is referred to as a rubble (pos. 21).

The chimney bears another wound from the otter that crossed the roof (pos. 24). It keeps moisture from rain from getting into the space between the roof and the chimney.

• 1 and 2- the foundation with heat and waterproofing;
• 3 – legs or Shansits: for a stove with such elements, less brick is required, in addition, it has an additional heating surface from below;
• 5 – the beginning of a special air channel (stuffy), through which uniform heating of the room in height is achieved;
• 10 – combustion arch;
• 13 – an overlap of the air convector, called a re -flood or pass;
• 20 – blocking the furnace;
• 22 – attic ceiling.

A detailed description of the masonry technology of a brick furnace with a video

The walls and corners of the furnace must be precisely vertical, and this should be the first point made when discussing the masonry of the furnaces. It is advised to install the stove in the formwork, which needs to be level and set at the construction site, in order to make it even.

Given the thickness of the seam, it is necessary to mark the contours of the future structure on the foundation using chalk before beginning the step-by-step laying of the furnace. Underneath the extension, the masonry should be completed with a dressing of vertical seams separated by half a brick. Prior to removing and applying the solution, every brick in the row must first be adjusted to the dry state.

Brickmasonry needs to be done swiftly. Bricks must be prepared in advance for all halves, quarters, and three occasions, as the thickened solution cannot be laid and leveled with a thin layer otherwise.

It is advised to apply the solution separately to each brick in an even layer because if you apply it immediately to the entire row of masonry, it will quickly thicken and the seam will appear uneven in thickness. This material examines the furnace’s detailed laying in detail.

It is essential to apply the solution quickly and uniformly by smearing a small amount on the brick’s angle and sloping it toward the edge. The brick should then be placed in place, and the solution should be applied to the second half to create a tubercle in the middle.

Ordinary red brick stove masonry joints should have a maximum thickness of 5 mm, while refractory and refractory brick joints should have a maximum thickness of 3 mm. The stove performs better with thinner seams.

When erecting pipes, the thickness of the seams must not exceed 10 mm due to furnace laying technology. After the solution has been applied all the way to the seams, use your hands or a cell to wipe any excess off the inner and outer surfaces.

The master’s guidance. It is advised to leave the stove’s surface unfilled to a depth of 5 to 10 mm in order to improve the retention of the plaster. The seams should be filled completely if plastering the furnace is not planned.

If tapping the brick on the solution didn’t work, it shouldn’t be fixed. It needs to be taken off, the solution must be cleaned off the surface, wet it down, and then style again.

Every row of masonry needs to have a 1/2 brick seam dressing applied to it. It is permissible to dress in one to four bricks in the ranks where a three-quarter brick is used.

Given the requirement for horizontal rows and the verticality of external surfaces and angles, the furnace should be laid. In order to adhere to this regulation, every row of masonry must be examined by a building level using a plumbing rule on the angles and walls’ verticality as well as a horizontal rule.

To make things easier, you should slide a cord between the formwork pillars so you can move along it while laying. With drawings of the dashing, each row needs to be verified.

Every internal surface of the furnaces should be flat, free of hollows and protrusions that impede gas flow and impair furnace performance. After five or six rows of masonry, the inner surfaces of the fuel must be cleaned with a wet rag, smoothing and wiping the seams to remove excess solutions. Turns and angles in the channels should be rounded, and the parts should narrow or expand gradually. If this isn’t done, the solution might crumble in a furnace.

Sutures used for clarification with refractory bricks should not be thicker than 3 mm. Red brick shouldn’t be used to bandage such brick. Masonry may be destroyed as a result of their different rates of temperature expansion.

The street stove ought to be simple to use and easy to lay out. It ought to be constructed on a trustworthy foundation that is independent of the house’s or any other adjacent structure’s foundation. Bandaging the masonry of foci that have structures (such as walls or fences) next to them is not permitted.

The masonry’s vertical joints must be sealed with bandages, and the seams’ maximum thickness should be 5 mm. A maximum of two rows of masonry may coincide with vertical seams in certain situations.

Bricks that have a knitted or shy side cannot be placed in the furnace or other high-temperature areas because they will collapse due to the force of the heat. You can familiarize yourself with this procedure by watching the video and seeing the brick furnace’s illustrated masonry in detail:

Speaking of which, The inner surfaces of the furnaces cannot be plastered or coated with a solution because these layers are falling off quickly and clogging the channels.

When joining metal components to the furnace, one should keep in mind the metal-to-material thermal expansion of materials. For instance, wire harnesses are required to remove metal supports from the furnace. To account for longitudinal thermal expansion, more room is needed, say, while installing grates.

Probable complications for the liver

The suburban home built in accordance with the standard project typically includes provisions for the furnace’s location, the chimney’s output, and easily accessible areas for upkeep and operation. Setting up a welding and heating unit in a house that is still under construction is far more challenging. more challenging if the house has already been constructed.

Occasionally, an owner will discover that the chimney will cross a rafter or overlap after deciding on a successful location for the furnace and even after the foundation has been built. What should I do in this circumstance?

In this instance, there are two challenging and fairly costly options that are linked to the solution. In the first, you will have to reorganize the floor to realign the beams and rafter legs, and in the second, you will have to demolish and reconstruct the stove’s foundation.

To avoid these issues, it is important to ascertain whether the integrity of the current structures will be violated prior to marking and building the foundation of the built home. If there is a chance and access to unlined beams, you must use a plumb line to precisely locate the parts of the marked furnace.

It is preferable to move the brick furnace if it is most practical to install it where its projection crosses roofing system components in a house that is still under construction. Generally speaking, out of all the options, it is best to go with the one that will be less expensive and easier to execute.

When designing a furnace and choosing a model that fits the space, the following guidelines should be considered:

Brick stove with multiple uses

Variations in size and heat capacity

The units’ placement in relation to the capital walls

Using a single furnace for heating

The large brick stove in the center of the space

The large brick stove in the center of the space

The furnace’s proximity to the exterior wall

The separation between the chimney and the wall

Masonry arches and arches

The heating furnace’s scheme.

Stripes, corners, and boards with embedded metal are not allowed when installing ceilings or blockers. The metal inherently deforms when exposed to high temperatures, and this deformation only gets worse because of the load. Bricks start to fall out as a result of this.

For ceilings of the fuel and internal openings of the furnace, releases are used with a width of the opening of 1 brick, less – with a width of the opening of more than 1 brick. Arched vault is made using convex formwork. The arches are based on slopes (heels) installed in the walls of the overlapped chamber. Parts are equal to the width of the opening. The formwork of the arch is rested on the board (circled), the length of which is equal to the flight. The height in the center should be equal to the height of the rise of the arch corresponding to its outline. Circle could be 2, 3 and even more, it depends on the length of the opening. They are sheathed with formwork on top, and from below – twisting boards. The length of all the boards should be equal to the length of the overlapping opening.

In order to align the edges with the bases, it was circled inside the cell on the supports. The order is completed with the required seam ligation. There should be an odd number of rows. The procedure is as follows: half of the remaining rows in the vault are taken from the total of one row. The number that emerges tells you how many rows you should lay out on one side, starting from the heel and working your way toward the center. The lower seams ought to be simple and 3 mm thick. We act similarly on the one hand and off the other. The castle in the center row closes off the masonry.

The arch expands more than the other parts because it receives more heat than the others. It puts more strain on the walls. This can be avoided by using a wedding iron with washers or strengthening the ordering where the heel is installed with wire that has a cross section of 5-7 mm.

How to make a brick bathhouse

Before you begin laying the furnace’s bricks, you should become acquainted with the order. Both the material and the furnace’s size play a role. In this instance, measuring the edges each time is required. Since smoke will enter the room through any opening, no matter how small. Bricks always fit together tightly, which is mostly independent of effort. To what extent a qualitatively prepared solution can yield?

Every brick row’s seam should have a thickness of no less than 3 mm and no more than 5 mm.

Assigning a bath furnace

Photo 8: Bath Furnishing Scheme

1. The first row, as mentioned earlier, must be laid out on a pre -prepared basis. For this, the foundation under the stove is delayed by bitumen waterproofing or roofing material. Wet all bricks from the first row with water.

1. Install a plumb line with a weight, as shown in the photo

1. The second and subsequent rows of bricks put in a checkerboard pattern.

1. On the 3rd row, as a rule, the door is mounted and strengthened with a strong wire.

1. To reliably fix the door, bricks around should be cut

1. On the 4th row, check the evenness of the walls and the future stove with a plumb line

1. From the same row, laying ash and grate begins. Before installing the grate, make holes in the surrounding bricks, which will level the expansion when heated.

1. In the 6th row, a blower door is mounted. In the 7th, the furnace door and grate are installed. From the 8th row, the masonry of the chimney begins, which continues until the fourteenth inclusive. The corners are mounted on the 14th row, and on the front side the opening of water is prepared. It is necessary to cover the tank and all the doors asbestos.

1. From 15 to 18 rows of the walls are laid out in half the brick and at an angle. Thus begins the formation of the dividing wall, where each subsequent brick will close the joint in a checkerboard pattern.

1. In the nineteenth row, the door that removes steam is mounted. Before laying 20-21 rows, steel stripes are laid out on the bricks to strengthen the mount (it is here that a container of water will be installed). Further, the entire container is sewn with bricks, you can not be incomplete parts or residues.

It is advised to plaster the bath or sew stones onto it after it has been laid, in order to both decorate it and reduce the possibility of fire.

General recommendations

• For laying the furnace, it is recommended to use T.n. Shamotnaya brick, which includes refractory clay. Such a brick withstands even the highest temperatures and does not burst when water gets on it. In addition, decorative characteristics without any praise.
• When going to build brick stoves for the house, drawings with orderly and safe operation is the most important thing you should pay attention to.
• The minimum allowable distance from the pipe to a wooden surface is 10 cm;
• The gap between the roof and the chimney should be insulated with a sheet of metal;
• The area in front of the stove is isolated by a similar sheet.

Instructions for performing work

The foundation device must be chosen after the heating stove diagram has been chosen. Small "Dutch" and heating-welding slabs with light floor loads are the exception. Once all the heat and waterproofing measures that were discussed below have been completed, the latter can be constructed straight from the floor’s cement screed.

An illustration of how to lay a furnace

In all other circumstances, the heating furnace ought to be supported by the best kind of foundation: a monolithic reinforced concrete structure. Its measurements are 50 mm greater than the structure’s overall measurements, and depending on the load, the plate’s thickness ranges from 100 to 150 mm. The foundation is laid independently, standing apart from the building’s base.

The foundation plate should be left exposed for a minimum of two weeks prior to building a brick furnace. Following this, layers of roofing material should be waterproofed, and sheets of asbestos or basalt cardboard should be laid for thermal insulation. Subsequently, a felt litter and a sheet of roof steel are placed, after which the stove is laid. It is necessary to soak the litter beforehand, then let it dry on the metal. You can now go straight ahead and start building the walls.

The first thing you should do is determine where to begin masonry. To do this, specific schemes are used, which meticulously depict each row of stones, beginning at the base and concluding with a chimney pipe. Once you have selected a particular kind of heat source and located or obtained design documentation for its building, it must show a range of masonry types found in these kinds of furnaces. A tiny "Dutch woman" measuring 520 x 520 mm is shown as an example below.

Dutch stove masonry design

Next, you need to prepare a solution for laying furnaces made of white or yellowish clay with the addition of quartz sand in a proportion of 1: 1. At the same time, it is not recommended to use water with a high content of calcium and magnesium salts (hard water). Before cooking, the clay is soaked in water and left for a day, after which they are passed through a sieve with a cell of 3 x 3 mm. This process is carried out by a wiping method, since a mixture of clay with water otherwise does not miss through a sieve. Then sand is added and kneading with gradual adding water. The final solution in consistency should resemble a thick sour cream.

The names of the brick’s sides

The masonry type of the pantries is identified by the names given to their sides. Brick furnaces using traditional masonry—spoon and pumpkin. This indicates that the sides of the stone bearing the appropriate names are visible on the wall’s front side. Bed masonry is very uncommon and is strictly prohibited when building stoves. The vertical seams between the stones should not match because the wall is constructed with a dressing.

Examples of bricklaying in the bush

Starting with the first row, the procedure proceeds while continuously comparing the results with the scheme, which illustrates the disorganized masonry. There is no need to rush this work; instead, focus on quality. Beginners should first lay out each row on their own, without using any glue, and support themselves with the drawings. Once you are certain that the bricks should be laid correctly, apply a solution and place them last.

Take out any extra clay so that the seam is at least 2 mm thick and not more than 3 mm. There are some areas where the seam can thicken up to 5 mm. It is necessary to place the stone right away; moving or launching it is not permitted. The excess clay mixture that is extracted from the stones is not reusable.

A brief list of additional guidelines for the masonry that must be adhered to is provided for convenience:

• Each stone is placed, resting it on 2 others.
• The first and last rows are performed by tech.
• To avoid stratification, vertical seams are filled with a solution.
• The bricks of each subsequent row should overlap the stones of the previous one by at least ¼ length.
• The coincidence of pale and spoon rows is not allowed.
• The chopped sides of the stones are placed inside, and not out the walls.

Harvesting of materials and components

A red ceramic brick is the primary component used to construct the stove by hand. It should be of the highest caliber and must be full-bodied; stones with internal voids in the stove are not utilized, with the exception of building barbecues and street barbecues.

Suggestions. The Dutchman is so indifferent to material quality that she can be constructed from the red brick that was utilized. It won’t need to be embellished until the masonry is finished, such as by overlapping tiles or creating a lovely tile design.

The following supplies and tools must be ready in order to fold the Dutch small furnace:

• Red burned brick – at least 390 pcs.;
• grate grate is 25 x 25 cm in size;
• loading door 25 x 21 cm;
• small cleaning doors and blew 14 x 14 cm;
• Metal damper 13 x 13 cm.

Note: The Dutchman can lay out any desired height, as was indicated in the first section. A one-story private home can be constructed with the quantity of bricks specified.

List of parts and supplies needed to assemble the hob:

• Full ceramic brick – 190 pcs.;
• grate 25 x 5 cm;
• Double -grained cast iron plate in size 53 x 18 cm with disks;
• Fuel chamber door 25 x 21 cm;
• Metal tank – boiler with dimensions of 35 x 45 x 15 cm;
• oven 32 x 27 x 40 cm;
• cleaning doors 13 x 14 cm – 2 pcs.;
• chimney valve;
• steel corner 30 x 30 x 4 mm – 4 m.

One way to reduce costs is to take over the production of a water heating tank and cook it using metal that is at least 3 or even better, 4 mm thick. Another option is to weld a snake made of 25–32 mm diameter steel pipe with your hands inside the stove in place of the tank. However, keep in mind that a pump must be used to ensure continuous circulation in such a water circuit; otherwise, the metal will burn out very quickly.

The same supplies needed to build a stove are also needed to construct a heaven-welding Swedish stove. Take only one corner (50 x 50 mm), purchase a 40 x 4 mm steel strip, and gather fireproof (chamotum) brick for the fuel layer. Locate a steel soft wire with a maximum diameter of 2 mm to install accessories.

Pantry council. It takes a lot of time and effort to prepare the natural clay that bricks are used to lay experienced stoves on. It is therefore advised that novices build furnaces using premade clay-sand mixtures that are available for purchase.

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Preparation of a solution for stove masonry

A brick stove made by hand is constructed on a clay-sand mixture rather than cement, unlike a traditional wall. The solutions for ceramic bricks and chamotis have very different compositions.

White kaolin or chamotum marl are the foundation for a chamotis brick solution. High refractory temperatures and the ability to withstand temperatures above 1,500 degrees are traits of minerals. The preparation of a refractory pantry typically requires the purchase of dry masonry mixture from retail chains.

On the basis of common clay that is available nearby, a ceramic brick solution is made. Many construction supermarkets also sell clay for furnaces.

With our own hands, create a brick furnace solution.

About 40 kg of clay will be needed to make 100 pieces of bricks. Trial collections are used to calculate the ratios of sand to clay. This is carried out in the manner described below:

• Clay for a day is soaked in cold water.
• The knead is divided into 5 parts and in each one is added, respectively, a quarter, half, three quarters or equal weight of the sand.
• All the resulting samples are kneaded again until complete uniformity and let stand for 3-4 hours so that excess moisture will come off.

We put samples to the test:

• Roll them into sausages 1-1.5 cm thick and wrap around any round object with a diameter of 5 cm.
• In the case when cracks of more than 2 mm were formed on the sample – the solution is not suitable.
• At a depth of cracks up to 2 mm – the solution is suitable for those parts of the furnace where the heating temperature does not exceed 300 degrees.
• If the surface of the sample does not crack or covered with a small mesh – such a solution is quite suitable to make a stove with your own hands.

The main purpose of the samples is to find the largest percentage of filler that can be added to the solution because good furnace clay is more expensive than sand.

Do not be afraid to ask for advice

Skilled stovers can determine the desired consistency of the solution much more precisely by just breaking it up with their hands. Thus, we advise you to get in touch with them for guidance if at all possible.

Brick stove for home with your own hands video

DIY stove masonry

The design of the furnace with a stove that you can make yourself is more intricate than that of the fireplace. As a result, the structure’s plan needs to be closely followed.

Since the foundation is more firmly established, marking needs to be done when it comes to waterproofing. You can then start laying the first row after that.

When using a vertical row layout, it’s important to keep in mind that the chimney channels shouldn’t be overly small. They are at least 13 by 13 centimeters in size.

The following are presumptions made by the hard scheme of the heating and welding furnace layout: A blowing camera should be included in the plan even from the initial rows of masonry. The blower door is installed when they start laying the second row. It is wrapped in asbestos cord prior to being installed in the opening meant for it.

It is installed by winding a wire and clamping it between two bricks. The wire is bent to the once the masonry has completely encased it.

They can see the holes intended for flare air circulation when they get to the fourth row of the furnace’s masonry. The fifth is placed on the furnace grate. It is acceptable to use silicate brick for building the furnace’s wall and threshold.

The sixth row is where the furnace door installation is done. They wrap it with an asbestos cord so that it resembles a blowing.

In order to guarantee that air flows through the structure, special attention must be paid to the shape of the holes between 6 and 10 rows. If there is a chance, the tenth row needs to be secured with a frame that has been cooked from the corner.

A hob is positioned on an asbestos pre-laid layout on the eleventh row.

On the seventeenth row, the corner is laid. It will be covered by the 18th row of masonry, completing the camera frame above the stove.

There is formed a drying chamber on the 19–20 rows of masonry. The doors for cleaning are installed on the nineteenth row.

On the twenty-fourth row of masonry, a metal corner is installed once more. He will have a sturdy brick row laid out on him, which will eventually become the dryer’s ceiling.

The 25th row has the cleaning door installed.

There are two installed valves on the thirtyth row.

The following rows comprise the furnace that extends to the second floor, and all subsequent rows up to the 38th are completed in accordance with the plan. Take note that the order of numbers for this furnace component is different. The masonry work is done in accordance with the following plan:

• The door installation is performed on the 2-3rd row. It is used for cleaning;
• The installation of a chimney valve is carried out on the 27th row;
• The part of the furnace installed on the second floor should be the form of a wide chimney. It should be equipped with a gate and a camera. Gradually, it is replaced by a narrow pipe, which begins at the level of the 32nd row.

The pipe then travels to the attic before the head is taken off and placed on the roof.

By placing an umbrella over the top of the pipe, the fall of moisture and dust inside is prevented.

Which brick stove to choose for a summer residence

The size and type of the room are determined by the furnace design that is chosen. It will be necessary for large cottages to have a massive stove structure with thick walls that can both heat up and maintain the temperature for an extended period of time. It’s not easy to fold a stove like that. Here, a certain level of expertise and understanding will be needed.

However, provided you adhere to a clear plan and do not alter the masonry regulations, even a novice can operate a small stove for heating a modest summer cottage.

A Swede is deserving of a proper place in the popularity rankings of heating and welding furnaces and is well-liked and respected by Russian stovers.

This design features a three-channel chamber, a small hob, and a compact, ergonomic shape. This small cottage would look great with its 880 to 1250 mm length.

The space between the kitchen and the living room is typically selected for the placement of such a furnace. As a result, the furnace serves as both a cooking appliance and a fireplace decoration for the living room.

It won’t be hard to put the hundreds of different layout schemes for the Swedish stove with a hob that are available online into practice for gifting. Since numerous stovers have added new possibilities to the traditional masonry scheme, each design is known by the names of the people who created it: bake Buslaev, Kuznetsov, and T.D. However, the working principle is the same in both.

A large, bulky structure known as a Russian stove is typically adorned with a large couch in addition to an oven and hob.

Utilizing a lounger, bake

Already, this furnace serves as a place to unwind in addition to being a useful tool for cooking. The owners of these furnaces are less likely to catch colds because it has a positive impact on human health and effectively retains heat in the room for extended periods of time.

Typically, the building has two furnaces—the main and the backup. Because of the unique furnace design, heat is distributed evenly from the bottom up. For kindling, any solid fuel will work, and there are no special specifications for the materials needed to lay a Russian furnace.

Among small heating and welding furnaces, the baby in.A. Potapova, built by a well-known engineer at the start of the 20th century, holds a special place. In other words, only 211 bricks require it, and the oven measures just 630 by 510 mm.

Such a baby also has an extractor, a tiny baking oven, and a single core plate. For a one-room cottage or tiny garden house, this furnace option will be perfect.

We advise you to read through the guidelines and essential details of installing a small heating and welding furnace in this article.

First, the hob

What oven can be installed at home

Brick stoves are categorized differently. This kind of equipment needs to be made at home, depending on the purpose for which it is intended. Then, some models can be improved, but it is preferable to consider such matters beforehand.

One type of brick heating unit is:

• for heating – it helps to create heat in one or several rooms at once, depending on the size and structure, but it will not be possible to warm up the water or cook food on it;
• hob – there is a hob that is used for cooking (as well as drying berries, mushrooms, boiling water, etc.D.), but the heating from her is not strong;
• Combined models – combine the ability of heating and preparation;
• Specific stoves – this category includes stoves or a tandoor, since they have a special structure and purpose.

It will be best to stay with a hob or heating model if the stove is chosen for a summer home. However, it is already worthwhile to consider the fireplace when it comes to comfort, not just comfort.

Another division is made based on design. The stove may be Swede, Dutch, or classic. Regarding shape, that is entirely up to the owner; it can be square, rectangular, circular, T-shaped, or corner (lying against a wall). The product is easier to masonry the more straight lines there are.

The amount of heat provided is not an insignificant moment. Right now, a structure’s ability to have thick or thin walls depends on the width of its walls. The cladding determines how much heat transfer increases (or decreases). Though aesthetic attractiveness is impacted by this moment. As a result, it could be plain plastering, metal, decorative brick, or tiles.

A stove with no chimney—what? Regardless of the design selected, she will require a pipe to extract combustion byproducts. A brick stove, that is, brick, uses a similar chimney. The species can have a channel or not, differ in the number of revolutions, be direct-flow or anti-flow, and have additional lower heating.

All of the aforementioned examples show how different brick furnaces can be from one another. It is advisable for individuals embarking on this task for the first time to select the model with the most straightforward configuration. First of all, the novice can easily understand the drawings of the guns for them. Second, there is a chance that something will go wrong and the stove will catch fire. That being said, once every detail of the masonry is completed and understood using a basic model, it will be feasible to consider a more challenging modification down the road.

For efficiency and comfort, choosing the best heating and insulation solution for your house is essential. For stoves, one common method is to use different masonry schemes. These plans combine innovation and tradition to give homeowners efficient ways to heat their spaces while also enhancing their aesthetic appeal. There are many options available to accommodate varying tastes and needs, ranging from traditional brick ovens to contemporary rocket stoves. Comprehending these favored masonry designs can aid homeowners in making knowledgeable choices regarding their heating systems, guaranteeing warmth and comfort all year round.

Choosing the size of the surface of the furnace

You must decide on the future design’s type and model before you can begin construction. Heat transfer—the capacity to warm the required area—will be the primary criterion for selection, not design or ease of construction.

When deciding where to put it, keep in mind that the furnace’s side surfaces transfer heat the fastest. This deciding factor in location selection.

There are numerous forms for different models:

• Rectangular;
• In the form of the letter T;
• With a lounger or kitchen equipment for cooking.

They can serve as dividers between rooms or as a heating appliance for living rooms.

Avoid selecting overly large designs for a small house area, even if they have a lot of features, as they will take up too much room and produce too much heat. It will take a lot of fuel and an excessive amount of heat transfer to warm the furnace up completely.

In relation to living rooms, the furnace’s location is crucial, and the entire house’s insulation must be met.

Stove-sized table, considering the room’s dimensions

Stove-sized table, considering the room’s dimensions

Rules and nuances of operation

The stove needs to be kept in good working order to be economical. A mere 2 mm fracture in the valve will result in a 10% loss of heat because of the uncontrolled airflow through it.

Additionally, you must correctly drown the stove. 15% to 20% of the heat can fly into the pipe with a blower that is strongly open, and 40% of the heat can fly into the pipe if the furnace door is open while the fuel is burning.

It must be dry firewood that the stove is smothering. They must be harvested beforehand in order to accomplish this. In addition to producing less heat due to their high moisture content, raw firewood causes a significant amount of acid condensate to form in the chimney, severely damaging the brick walls.

The logs must all be the same thickness—roughly 8 to 10 cm—in order to heat up uniformly.

Firewood is arranged in cages or rows with a 10-millimeter space between each one. A minimum of 20 mm should separate the top of the fuel bookmark from the furnace; it is preferable if the firebox is filled to two thirds.

The beam, paper, etc. produce the majority of the fuel’s painting. It is not permitted to use gasoline, acetone, or kerosene.

In order to prevent heat loss through the chimney, you must block the bit after the kind of kind.

During the kindling process, you must navigate the flame’s color to establish traction. The fire should be yellow when it is burning at the ideal rate; if it is white, too much air is being supplied, and a large portion of the heat is being expelled through the chimney. When there is insufficient air, the fuel does not burn all the way through and a lot of hazardous materials are released into the atmosphere, giving the color red.

Cleaning (in t.h. from soot)

Typically, the furnace is cleaned and repaired in the summer, and the chimney needs to be cleaned two or three times during the winter. two to three times. Soot is a great heat insulator, and too much of it will make the oven less efficient.

The ash in front of each firebox needs to be removed from the grate.

Three components of the furnace are in charge of controlling its traction: a bit, a valve, and a blower door. Thus, it is necessary to continuously check on the condition of these devices. Should there be any wear or malfunctions, replacement work needs to be done right away.

The main stages and important features of the laying of the furnace

It should take three to four weeks from the time the foundation is poured to the beginning of construction. The base will get stronger during this time and be able to support the weight of the brick furnace. The Contractor must give the work at hand their full attention and responsibility. Any mistakes could have irreversible effects, so plan ahead and give yourself enough time to complete the task.

Artisanal brick oven

There are multiple stages involved in laying a furnace.

Initial phase. Remove the lower portion of the first cap and the ash from the brick. Use the sand-clay solution that was previously discussed to carry up the masonry.

Phase two. Install the masonry-based ash-free door. Use a galvanized wire to secure the door.

Install the masonry door that is ash-free.

Phase Three. Over the ash camera, install the grate.

Put the grate in place over the ash camera.

Stage four. Install the furnace. Line the interior of this compartment with bricks that are fireproof. Place "on the rib" the bricks. You must use a specific masonry solution at this point. It is prepared as usual, but refractory—that is, Shamotnaya—is used in place of plain clay. Using a steel plate and wire that you are already acquainted with, secure the furnace chamber door.

The fifth phase. Proceed with standard masonry up until the twelfth row. Once you’ve reached this row, redraw the furnace camera and evenly place the burner-equipped tiles. Cast iron is the proper material for this plate. Use the construction level to regulate the styling’s evenness.

The sixth phase. Place the initial cap. It is integrated into the stove’s left edge. A channel for a summer move is equipped at the same time.

Stage seven. Install the stove and arrange the cooking area’s walls. Drive the lower cap’s layout, as mentioned earlier.

Step eight. Put in a valve for the summer channel that was mentioned. The cooking department’s interior corner is where this valve is located.

The ninth phase. Approach the 20th row of seats. Once you’ve reached this row, block the first cap and the cooking department. Make sure you leave the necessary number of holes in the continuous masonry for the cooking outlet, the lifting channel, and the summer stroke. Bricks should be placed on the steel corners to increase the stove’s strength and dependability.

Stage ten. Close swing fireplaces to block the hob portal. It is preferable if the doors have heat-resistant glass inserts. With this solution, you can watch as the fuel burns while taking in the beauty of the flame.

Stage eleven. Install the treatment doors to make soot removal convenient. Select a location for installation that will be most convenient for you to get to.

The twelveth phase. Place the cap’s walls nearly up to the wall opening’s upper edge. Place two brick rows at the top to obstruct the stove. The mineral wool is filled in by the lumen located between the top of the stove and the jumper. This will guarantee more thermal insulation and result in a marginal improvement in heating efficiency.

Stage thirteen. Position the ornamental belt around the upper edge of the apparatus.

Stage Fourteen. Installing the smoke outlet pipe should begin. The chimney is better off made of brick. Compared with asbestos or similar metal pipes, this design will last a lot longer.

All that’s left to do is finish the stove’s exterior if desired and lay out the chimney all the way to the end. The simplest solution is to plaster. If not, concentrate on your personal tastes and a reasonable spending plan.

Consequently, you can lay the stove with your own hands even though it’s not an easy task. It suffices to merely comprehend the technology and adhere to all instructions. Never forget that the best materials should be used for the job. Additionally, you will be able to independently erect a stove that will heat your home for many years without any issues or complaints thanks to stoves that have been tested over many years.

Video – masonry of furnaces with your own hands scheme

Calculation of power

Every furnace has its own power, regardless of where it came from. If you are creating the structure on your own, you must be proficient in doing so. However, you should reserve the house right away so that insulation is done before any calculations are done.

The problem can be resolved with the use of a very basic formula. In normal circumstances, 0.5 kW of power is needed to heat a 1 sq. m. room; in severe frost conditions, 0.76 kW. For instance, if the furnace has the following specifications: it is 2.5 m tall, 1.5 x 1.5 m in size, and 17.5 kV.m in surface area. In this case, the average power indicator will be 8.5 kW. However, under heavy use, this value will increase to 13.3 kW. This is an average performance for heating between 80 and 100 kV/m.

Regarding the furnace, given the complexity of the calculations involved, it is preferable to buy it from a store.

Drying of the furnace

Having finished laying the furnace, it should be thoroughly dried. The correct way to dry the stove is a natural drying in which all doors and windows in the house leave open for two weeks for two weeks. All holes of the furnace should be opened. After raw spots disappear, we can assume that the stove has dried up. There is also an artificial drying of the furnace, which should be used under the appropriate weather conditions, when there is no way to dry the furnace naturally. In this case, the surface temperature of the furnace should not be more than 50 0C, the essence of this drying is to repeatedly trampled the furnace for 30 minutes. Melting a stove preferably with small wooden logs. After cooling the furnace, re -kindling is carried out. After each next kindle, all the furnace holes are left open. Artificial drying is carried out within a week, after which, time on the furnace can be increased. In wet weather, drying the furnace lasts 8-10 days. The indicator that the furnace is dried is the absence of white smoke clubs (water vapor) emerging from the pipe.

Russian stove drawings of brick furnaces

Brick-built Russian stovesThe furnace must be laid using the following materials:

• full -bodied red brick – 1610 pieces;
• Vyshka for a valve with a size of 0.3×0.3 meters – 2 pieces;
• dry clay solution in the dissolved form;
• a samovar 14×14 centimeters – 1 piece;

To do the job, you’ll need the following tools:

• kelma – for laying and aligning the solution;
• Kirochka – a multifunctional hammer with a blade located perpendicular to the axis of the handle. At its other end is a square lobby;
• Bubble level for masonry and hydraulic for the first row;
• Rule – serves to align the bricks of each row;
• plumb line – one of them should be constantly attached to the axis of the chimney (overlap), and with the help of the second, the verticality of the angles is checked;
• brush – is needed for grouting seams;
• cord – it is pulled on each row of masonry.

The following is how brick furnace drawings for any kind of house appear:

1. Hob. For masonry, it is used on 3/4 stuck corner brick with locks.
2. Under. There is a slope from the back, for which the space is covered with sand, on which brick is laid.
3. Overlapping the lower part. The structure is covered with bricks on rods, corners or leaf blanks.
4. Code with a lock. In some cases, the central castle is used, in the others – the last two symmetrical bricks.
5. Rows to the lower arch. Masonry of brick furnace is performed in the usual way, later on top of it is installed a code of the arch collected from chipboard, or springs sawed from wood.
6. Wells. Are the bandaged rows in which they leave the hole going out on the back.
7. Cunning. Bricks are laid on the foundation solution, hollow stones are not allowed.
8. Code of VK. For convenience, bricks are shy to a wedge -shaped form.
9. Channel overlapping of a samovar. Is continuous, only whole stones are used.
10. Holes are reduced above the Shestak. Brick is chopped off in accordance with the drawing.
11. Alignment of the walls. Along with this, they reduce the gap, lay the channel of the samovar.
12. Installation of a samovar. The structure is closed with a separate lid.
13. Installation of a bit. Two row.
14. Chimney. The height of the pipe from the pitch to the upper part should be at least 5 meters. The upper rows form a visor that prevents precipitation from the chimney.

Installation of furnace devices

Installing the required furnace devices should be done before moving on to the next row. This has to be completed in a specific order:

1. A soft wire 50-60 cm long is tied to the hole in the upper corner of the frame;
2. If this is a door for the furnace, then it is advisable to wrap the frame with a cord from asbestos;
3. Using the drawing, marks the place where the door should be and, having hung its horizontalness with a level, put a solution;
4. Put a door and a wire tied in advance, crush with brick to laying;
5. Check the verticality with a plumb line and, if necessary, the wire is pulled or weakened;
6. If there is no cord from asbestos, then a gap of 3-4 mm is left between the door frame and masonry. If this is not done, the door, heated, extend the masonry;
7. Topa doors are attached with a hoop iron, which is tasted on the door frame. You can not use steel to install the door over the door. The door is covered with bricks in the locking method or a wedge -shaped ceiling is used;
8. Backders, blown and food doors are attached using a wire with a cross section of 2 mm and sealing the ends of the wire into masonry. Overlapping these doors is made by bricks of the VSTOK;
9. The valves are applied to the overlapped channels, the frames are coated with clay solution.

To maximize the efficiency of your stove and maintain the warmth and comfort of your home, it is essential to select the appropriate masonry scheme. In order to make an informed choice, you must evaluate your priorities and speak with experts. There are a number of well-liked options available, each with unique advantages and factors to take into account.

The Finnish contraflow design is a well-liked masonry scheme that is renowned for its effective heat transfer from the firebox to the surrounding area. Because it distributes and retains heat well, this design is popular with homeowners who want even warmth throughout their living spaces. To guarantee adequate insulation and ventilation, though, meticulous design and construction are needed.

The Russian fireplace is another popular design, valued for its classic appeal and strong heat output. Thick masonry walls that absorb and radiate heat long after the fire has subsided are features of this design, along with a sizable firebox positioned in the center. Although it offers superior warmth, its construction requires a large amount of space and resources.

The Swedish bell design presents a strong alternative for individuals looking for something more contemporary and occupying less space. This simple yet efficient design maximizes heat exchange while reducing the stove’s overall footprint by channeling heat through a vertical flue system. Because of its simple design, it’s perfect for smaller rooms or homes with limited space.

Efficient operation and prevention of heat loss are contingent upon appropriate sealing and insulation, irrespective of the masonry scheme selected. To keep your stove operating at peak efficiency and extend its lifespan, routine cleaning and maintenance are also necessary.

In conclusion, careful consideration of elements like space, heating requirements, and aesthetic preferences is necessary when choosing the ideal masonry scheme for your stove. Knowing the features of well-liked designs, such as the Swedish bell, Russian fireplace, and Finnish contraflow, will help you make an informed choice that will improve the warmth and coziness of your house for many years to come.

Video on the topic

Stove with a stove from A to……h.2