How to replace a magnesium anode in a storage water heater

Modern homes would not function without water heaters, which provide a consistent supply of hot water for everything from dishwashing to taking showers. To operate well and extend their lifespan, they do, however, need maintenance, just like any other piece of equipment. Replacing the magnesium anode is a vital component of water heater maintenance. This part, which is frequently disregarded, is essential to keeping the tank from corroding and prolonging the life of the water heater. With the help of this guide, you can preserve the longevity and optimum performance of your storage water heater by learning how to replace the magnesium anode.

It is important to comprehend the significance of the magnesium anode in your water heater before beginning the replacement process. The anode rod in the tank serves as a sacrificial element, drawing corrosive substances from the water to itself. By doing this, it stops the interior tank lining from being corroded by these substances, which could cause leaks and an early failure of the water heater. However, as it continues to shield the tank, the anode rod eventually runs out of power and needs to be replaced in order to continue providing effective corrosion protection.

Although changing the magnesium anode in your water heater is a reasonably simple procedure, it does need some simple tools and close attention to safety guidelines. To prevent any electrical hazards, make sure you turn off the water heater’s power supply before you start. To avoid scalding accidents from hot water or steam, it’s also a good idea to let the water heater cool down for a few hours. After taking these safety measures, you can confidently move forward with finishing the replacement task.

Determining the magnesium anode’s location within the water heater is one of the first steps in replacing it. The anode rod of the majority of storage water heaters is inserted into the top of the tank and extends into the water. The removal of a cover or panel on top of the tank may be necessary to access the anode rod, depending on the model of your water heater. The anode rod is usually attached to a hexagonal nut or socket head, which you must loosen in order to remove the old anode once it has been exposed.

Briefly – why do you need a magnesium rod

Heterogeneous metals make up boiler details:

• tank – stainless steel or “black” with enameled coating;
• Ten tube with a nichrome spiral inside – copper.

These metals are susceptible to electrochemical corrosion when water heats up due to the fault of dissolved oxygen and salts. The heater is destroyed first, followed by the tank walls.

Purchasing and replacing an inoperable electric heater is a reasonably easy task. Another issue is a leaky container that is irreparable, meaning the boiler is thrown out completely.

A sacrificial anode composed of a more active metal, such as magnesium (less frequently, titanium), is incorporated into the domestic drive to increase the service life of metal parts. The cathode protection principle is applied: corrosion "eats up" the rod initially, then moves on to the heater and the tank walls. For this reason, it’s critical to seize the opportunity and replace the destroyed anode with a new one.

Note: A magnesium anode of the appropriate size is also utilized in indirect heating containers with coil-style copper heat exchanger installations. In-depth descriptions of "indirects" and electrical apparatus designs can be found in other articles.

Change the protective anode of an electric boiler

These kinds of suspended vertical boilers have the heater fixed to the bottom of the steel vessel and the cathode protection rod installed throughout the entire site. The tane block in horizontal water heater models is fixed to the tank wall with its back to the user.

Citation. Universal Optima series devices from the Termex brand are equally suited for installation in vertical and horizontal orientations. At the tank’s tie is the flange that houses the heater and anode. Gorenje’s universal boilers are constructed differently, with the rod at one end and the heater at the other (see the scheme).

Before replacing the boiler’s anode element manually, get the following tools ready:

• A set of keys for nuts in size 8 … 19 mm;
• magnetic screwdriver under a cross -shaped slot;
• Passatigi;
• flashlight – highlight from below and inside the container;
• sandpaper (clean the heater);
• hose for emptying the water heater;
• rags;
• wide plastic pelvis.

You will undoubtedly only need one key out of the entire set, but you won’t know its exact size until you take the cover off. Cleaning requires the pelvis because you don’t want to rake the dirt directly onto the floor or into the bathroom (especially if the boiler is suspended above it).

Preparatory stage

Prior to disassembling the device, the following must be done:

1. Deange the water heater in any available way – turn off the "automatic", pull the fork out of the outlet.
2. Crush the supply of cold water to the receiving drive pipe.
3. If the boiler is tied according to the above scheme, open the “hot” valve on the nearest mixer. From there it will flow around a liter of water, then open the drain valve and empty the tank in a bucket or directly into the bath.

Follow the same steps as before, but drain the water using a regular safety valve when connecting the heater directly to the pipes, as the expert suggests in the video:

You will have to use the drastic method to remove the flexible eyeliner from the apparatus using a gas key because there are no cranes at the boiler entrance and the valve is clogged. When you use a bucket, for example, to drain water in sections, periodically shut the "cold" pipe with your hand to create a vacuum that will stop the stream of water. Just remember to get the drive’s temperature down to a comfortable level.

Dismantling and cleaning the tank

Let us now examine the process of extracting a tennoe block from the water heater and changing the protective anode:

1. Turn the screw screws with a magnetic screwdriver, remove it and push it to the side.
2. If the free length of the wires is enough, immediately pull out the thermostat and the sensor from the tube (keeps on contacts). Otherwise, disconnect the supply cable, then remove the thermo element.
3. Using the wrench, unscrew the block flange. The size and number of bolts depends on the modification of the boiler. For example, on “Aristons” there is a fastening of 5 mm on a turnkey or a spacer on one nut of 14 mm.
4. Substitute the pelvis and carefully take out the block. First, attach a slight force – the rubber seal probably got to the landing site. The container remains up to 0.5 liters of water, which will immediately flow out with the mud, accumulated at the bottom.
5. Grasp the old anode (or the thin rod that remains of it) and twist the part from the nest.
6. After extraction, proceed with the cleaning of the heater mechanically – remove the scale with a screwdriver and clean it with sandpaper.

Suggestions. To prevent wire confusion during assembly, sketch a circuit before turning off, or even better, snap a photo with your smartphone’s camera.

It is worthwhile to take this opportunity to completely clean the tank from the inside using kitchen supplies after disassembly. Shortly after, turn on the cold water supply to rinse; the stream will clear the dirt from the walls and empty into the basin.

All that is left to do is insert a fresh boiler anode into the cleaned block’s nest, manually tighten the rod, and reassemble the apparatus. Make sure the container is filled before turning it on. Then, open the water supply and wait until the mixer’s water runs out (recall that we already opened a "hot" valve).

Watch the video to learn how to replace the Ariston 50-liter water heater’s magnesium rod by hand:

The process for installing the anode on various brands’ models is largely the same. The steps are always the same: empty the vessel, disconnect the boiler from the mains, and take out the heating unit. Devices with a separate rod location are an exception, which we will further examine.

We serve indirect heating capacity

We immediately observe that, in comparison to electrical boilers, the replacement procedure is far simpler. An indirect water heater’s anode is situated at the top and is not in any way connected to any other components, such as a heat exchanger or, in combined models, an extra heater.

How to replace an entertained heater’s anode:

1. Cross the cold water supply.
2. It is not necessary to devastate the tank, you just need to lose the pressure. Open the “hot” valve on the mixer and drain 2-3 liters of water through the drainage valve of the device, then cut off the hydraulic line.
3. Rozhkovo or united key, turn out the plug on the capacity cover and pull it together with the old anode.
4. Unscrew the rod with pliers, wrap the new one in its place and tighten the hand.
5. Insert the element into the tank and tighten the plug with a slight effort so as not to transmit the sealing rubber ring. It is advisable to check the latter after disassembly, if necessary, replace.

Advice: To prevent coolant from driving through the coil during disassembly, it is a good idea to turn down the boiler circulation pump.

Similar to this, a stationary water heater with a gas burner needs to have its rod changed. In the video, the work process is demonstrated:

The water will need to be drained if serving the wall version of the "indirect" is required. Using the technology covered in the previous section regarding electric models, the protective rod is removed.

When you need to change the anode

The operating mode and the water’s hardness are the two variables that affect the element’s service life. It is not necessary to explain the boiler’s intensity of work; the higher the consumption in the private home’s hot house system, the higher the load on the heater’s component parts.

The amount of calcium and magnesium salts in water determines its rigidity. The anode metal breaks down more quickly the higher their concentration, which also causes the electrochemical corrosion reaction to proceed more quickly. The process slows down significantly in soft water and stops altogether in distilled.

The frequency of magnesium anode replacement is contingent upon the DHW drive’s operating conditions.

1. With continuous mode of operation + hard water – annually.
2. Ordinary tap water, the heater operates constantly – 1 time in 2 years, at least.
3. At a lower load, it is worth cleaning the boiler once for 2 years and monitor the condition of the element.
4. The exclusion from the rules is a titanium rod that works together with an external power source – the so -called active cathode protection. The system is designed for a long service life.

A crucial aspect. In certain accumulative heater models (like the Gorenje GBFU 80N), the anode is fixed so that it can only be accessed with a specialized system and stands apart from the heater. The solution is to remove the heater block using the conventional method and replace the element by attaching it to the flange from below.

The longevity of your storage water heater and the continuous effectiveness of your heating system can both be significantly increased by replacing the magnesium anode in your unit. You can properly maintain your water heater and steer clear of future expensive repairs or replacements by being aware of the significance of the magnesium anode and by replacing it according to the correct procedure.

It’s important to understand the function of the magnesium anode in your water heater first and foremost. The anode serves as a sacrificial rod, drawing corrosive substances from the water and keeping the tank itself safe from harm. But eventually, the anode may run out, making the tank susceptible to corrosion. To keep your water heater safe, the anode needs to be replaced and inspected frequently.

Being prepared is essential when changing the magnesium anode. Start by cutting the water supply and the water heater’s electricity. It will be simpler and safer to partially empty the tank. After locating the anode rod, which is usually located on top of the heater, remove it with a wrench. This step may cause some water to leak, so be ready for that.

Examine the old anode for wear and corrosion after removing it. If it’s greatly worsened, you’ve probably discovered the issue in good time. Before putting the new anode in, use this chance to clean the tank of any sediment or buildup. To guarantee a tight seal, attach plumber’s tape to the replacement anode’s threads.

Once the replacement anode is positioned, use a wrench to carefully tighten it, being careful not to overtighten and possibly breaking the threads. After it is fastened, top off the tank and turn the water heater back on. You can preserve the longevity of your water heater and guarantee dependable hot water for years to come by routinely inspecting and replacing the magnesium anode, which should be done every three to five years.

In maintaining your home"s heating and insulation, ensuring the efficiency of your storage water heater is crucial. One vital task is replacing the magnesium anode within the heater. This component prevents corrosion, extending the lifespan of your heater and maintaining water quality. To replace it, first, turn off the heater"s power and water supply. Drain the tank partially to access the anode, usually located at the top. Use a wrench to loosen and remove the old anode, then insert the new one and tighten it securely. Finally, refill the tank, turn the power and water back on, and check for leaks. Regularly replacing the magnesium anode ensures your water heater operates effectively and lasts longer, saving you money and ensuring a steady supply of hot water for your household.

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