Heating radiator above is hot, cold from below: what is it, why is it and how to fix it

Have you ever noticed that the top of your heating radiator feels hot, but the bottom stays cold? It’s a prevalent problem in many homes, and knowing why it occurs and how to resolve it can significantly impact both your comfort level and energy costs.

Air trapped inside the system is frequently indicated by a radiator that is hot at the top and cold at the bottom. The bottom of the radiator remains cold while the top heats up due to the air preventing the hot water from circulating properly. Because of this, your heating system has to work harder to heat the space, which results in inefficiency and increased energy expenses.

There are several reasons why air can get stuck in your radiator system. It might be the result of poor installation, rust, or just air gradually getting into the system. For whatever reason, fixing the problem is necessary to guarantee that your heating system works effectively.

Fortunately, repairing a radiator that is cold on the bottom and hot on top is typically a simple procedure. The process of "bleeding" the radiator is one popular technique that entails releasing the trapped air and enabling the hot water to circulate freely throughout the radiator. Depending on the kind of radiator valves you have, you can either use a radiator key or a screwdriver to accomplish this.

Maintaining your heating system on a regular basis can help keep problems like this from happening again. You can increase the effectiveness of your heating system and reduce your energy costs by checking your radiators for trapped air and bleeding them as necessary.

  1. What are the causes of uneven heating of radiators
  2. Slow circulation of the coolant – looking for a malfunction
  3. Solving the main problems with the radiator – how to deal with breakdowns?
  4. The bottom of the battery is cold and the top is hot: reasons and solutions
  5. The battery clogged
  6. In the radiator, air
  7. The battery is incorrectly connected
  8. Weak temperature
  9. Weak speed of the coolant
  10. Weak pressure
  11. The locking reinforcement broke
  12. Check the bypass
  13. Thermostat
  14. Stream strength
  15. Valves in the ranks?
  16. Air traffic jam
  17. The cross -section of the supply pipe is.
  18. What needs to be done?
  19. Dirt, where?
  20. Incorrect radiator?
  21. Side connection
  22. Diagonal connection with lower feed
  23. Diagonal connection with the upper feed
  24. How to eliminate the problem
  25. Elimination of dislikes with your own hands (step -by -step instructions)
  26. Replacing radiators
  27. What to do if the batteries are clogged
  28. How to clean the clogged batteries
  29. Locking reinforcement does not work
  30. Methods of washing radiators and new methods of cleaning the inner surface
  31. Cardinal measure – replacement of heating batteries
  32. Typical errors when connecting radiators and methods for their elimination
  33. What threatens ineffective operation of heating devices
  34. The new bimetallic radiators have the bottom, while the top is hot: possible causes
  35. When you shouldn"t worry
  36. Probable reasons for uneven heat transfer
  37. Why are bimetallic radiators after connecting at the top hot and cold at the bottom: the reason to check the compounds
  38. Incorrect installation of coolants: consequences
  39. How to rectify the situation
  40. Half of the battery does not warm
  41. Paul battery vertically
  42. Horizontal battery
  43. How to tie a radiator so that it would warm to the maximum.
  44. Video on the topic
  45. One of the bimetal connection circuits for lower or unknown feed.

What are the causes of uneven heating of radiators

An essential component of the housing heating system is the battery. It depends on how hospitable they are and how warm the space will be. Radiators can efficiently heat the air in large rooms and sustain a comfortable temperature for extended periods of time when connected and operated properly. But what should be done if the radiator’s top portion heats up nicely while the bottom stays cold? Initially, you must ascertain the cause of this.

The hura recommend is heated by the lower portion of the batteries.

  • Heating radiator on top is hot and cold from below – what to do?
  • How to make a heating radiator – yourself manufacturing technology
  • Which heating radiator is better to choose for an apartment – analysis of the four options

Note right away that the majority of battery models are designed such that the lower part of the battery heats up slightly more when it is operating. This can be explained by a high degree of heat transfer; the water cools slightly inside the radiator before starting to flow out of the batteries. This means that the device’s top will always be hotter than its bottom. As a result, it is not necessary to be concerned if the heating elements’ surface does not heat up evenly to the end.

Even worse would be if you touched the device and felt a significant temperature difference. This indicates clearly that either the radiator’s liquid isn’t circulating quickly enough, or it was connected incorrectly. The master in the first instance most likely confused the water supply and outflow pipes. This is an issue that many property owners deal with. The attempt to connect the radiator with your hands or the supposed master’s lack of qualifications are the causes. In the second instance, the radiator’s low water flow is the reason the bottom is cold. Under these circumstances, the liquid may cool fully before escaping the element.

Slow circulation of the coolant – looking for a malfunction

The slower water circulation inside the element is another issue that keeps the lower portion of the heating radiator cold. There could be two causes for this circumstance. First, there is a narrowed section in one of the pipes, and second, the water moves very slowly inside the system. Because the pump that drives the coolant through the system isn’t working as hard as it should in the second scenario, the radiator has a cold bottom. In this instance, the liquid cannot leak on and pass the radiator quickly. This type of issue is common for gravitational systems without any further information.

Pipic reckoning may occur due to various factors. First of all, incorrect soldering of polypropylene pipes causes this. Second, pipes may already be narrowed as a result of the installation of an adjusting valve. Thirdly, deposits in the pipes may form that hinder normal throughput. The room’s extremely low temperature is another factor contributing to the radiator’s ineffective operation. As a result, the element cools considerably more quickly because all of its energy is released. It is normal for the device to be hot on top and cold on the bottom at the same time.

Solving the main problems with the radiator – how to deal with breakdowns?

If you found yourself wondering, "Why is the room’s heating radiator hot from above and cold from below?" it’s time to act quickly and take the required action.

A battery that is connected correctly

Use the following algorithm to determine the cause:

  • Check the correct connection of pipes;
  • Inspect the radiator itself;
  • release air and clean the device;
  • Check the condition of the valves for adjustment;
  • Inspect the pipes;
  • Check the pump.

The connection’s literacy is necessary for the first step. Determine the temperature of the radiator’s bottom pipe first. The lower pipe will be heated if the device was connected improperly. You must disconnect all of the pipes and reconnect them in accordance with the previously mentioned principle in order to resolve the issue. If everything goes according to plan, the lower pipe will barely warm up.

Frequently, an air cork forms in the radiator, interfering with the element’s regular heating. Either a separate seal to describe air or a Maevsky crane must exist in order to solve the device’s problem. Blocking the air supply, opening the descent completely, and releasing all the air are required for purging. After that, the tap needs to be turned to its original position and the system valves adjusted. This procedure yields the desired outcome in a lot of cases.

Should the system have an adjustable tap, it could be the source of the issue. Take out the crane and give it a close examination. You will need to use the pliers to return the details to their original diameter if you notice that its end has closed. Changing the crane right away is advised by many experts in order to prolong the system’s period of effective operation.

If the crane is absent, the pipes are probably the source of the issue. It is recommended that you use a special removable key to remove the channels and clean them of any contaminants such as rust. Replace the pipes with new ones if they can no longer be used.

Because of the system’s design features, there is frequently no high pressure within it. It is imperative that you research this before purchasing a private home or apartment. Replace the old pump or purchase one if the old pump is completely missing in order to increase this indicator. This will enable the coolant circulation to speed up and guarantee more effective system operation overall.

The bottom of the battery is cold and the top is hot: reasons and solutions

A few people who live in private homes and apartments notice that there are not enough heating radiators. The existence of air in the system, a broken crane, etc.D. are some possible explanations for why the battery’s top is hot and the bottom is cold. Examine each cause and solution strategy in greater detail.

The battery clogged

One of the most frequent causes of the battery being cold at the bottom and hot at the top is the development of a blockage in the heating device. Insufficient supply of high-grade heat medium is the cause. The water used to heat the system frequently contains impurities, which when heated to high temperatures form plaque that builds up on the batteries’ inner surfaces.

A blockage prevents heated coolant from moving freely along the radiator and causes uneven heating. You can clean the radiator using chemical and mechanical methods to get rid of circulation issues. Experts frequently employ a hydrodynamic and hydropneumatic approach in the most challenging situations, along with an extremely successful electro-hydrochigid battery cleaning technique.

In the radiator, air

In terms of heating the space, the malfunctioning heating system is likewise ineffectual. The accumulation of air bubbles in radiators, an unpleasant situation that is typically observed in upper-floor apartment buildings, can be readily explained by the basic laws of physics: air rises towards the roof. These batteries typically have a cold top, but this does not rule out the possibility of a cold bottom.

Standard Maevsky cranes are installed for preventative measures, allowing all air that builds up in radiators to exit the system. To feed hot water, you must block the pipe and leave the "return" open. After that, you must open the tap to let the air out. The coolant supply to the radiator starts up again after the crane closes.

The battery is incorrectly connected

An additional prevalent circumstance involving the battery’s cold bottom and hot top is an erroneous or amateurish connection. The placement of bypasses in front of the heaters, the appropriate selection of the connection layout, and the expert installation of every shut-off valve will all require special consideration in the arrangement of the heating system.

A parallel (diagonal) connection with the heat carrier supply in the upper section and the "return" in the lower will be the best option. Furthermore, it’s important to keep in mind that a space is required above and below the battery to allow for regular and steady air exchange. If not, such a device’s operation will be extremely problematic and ineffective.

Weak temperature

You shouldn’t be concerned if there isn’t much of a temperature differential between the part’s top and bottom batteries. Such a radiator device makes perfect sense. Because the indicators of thermal return are relatively high, the circulating thermal carrier always manages to cool down a little. Extremely large differences might necessitate interfering with the system’s functionality.

It will be necessary to raise the heat carrier’s temperature and hence the working heater’s power if the water temperature in the heating system is low. Utilizing a specific heat-reflecting screen also produces positive outcomes. It is advised to use conventional aluminum foil for this purpose, or alternatively, more contemporary and dependable materials.

The ability to modify the temperature regime in a different battery using a unique reinforcement represented by a traditional cutting valve is a crucial feature of a two-pipe connection. Thus, by adjusting the shut-off valves, each radiator’s thermal carrier volume can be increased or decreased.

Weak speed of the coolant

The heating system’s circuit, the coolant’s properties, the strength and efficiency of the circulation pumping apparatus, the diameter and material of the pipes, and the power of the pump all have a direct impact on the thermal carrier’s inadequate speed.

  • Private households and apartments-0.5-1.5 m/s.;
  • Production premises – within 3 m/s.;
  • Administrative buildings-within 2 m/s.

For a variety of reasons, the equivalent level of sound that is permitted within a building determines the coolant movement speed in pipeline heating systems. The last radiators warm up more quickly as a result of the coolant’s slower movement due to the lowered pumping equipment power. In rare circumstances, the radiators’ tops may be heated and their bottoms may be chilly. In this situation, raising the device’s power indicators is required to guarantee both quicker circulation and the most even heating of the radiators.

Weak pressure

When pressure indicators in the heating system malfunction, the quality of the heating in the premises may suffer. The system’s operation and the efficiency of the building’s heating are adversely impacted by the low and high pressure levels in the thermal circuit. While the first option does not enable the assurance of living comfort, the second option swiftly disables specific nodes and elements.

A drop in dynamic pressure results in:

  • incorrect balancing;
  • the presence of air traffic jams;
  • unenfable heat carrier;
  • excess section of pipelines;
  • insufficient power of pumping equipment.

The system pressure frequently drops as a result of coolant leaks, pumping equipment problems, expandomate membrane breaches, and the development of cracks in the expansion tank’s walls. Water leaks from the heating circuit and security unit malfunctions can also cause the issue.

Installing a security group is necessary for both automatic adjustment and control of operating parameters in closed heating contours. Although thermostatic valves can also be used, manual balancing of the open-type double-circuit system is the norm.

The locking reinforcement broke

The purpose of the overlapping type reinforcement is to allow the heat carrier supply to the heating network to overlap completely or partially. The following are the primary elements of such a reinforcement:

  • valves;
  • ball cranes;
  • thermal heads with mechanical or automatic adjustment.

When malfunctions within the crane appear, the upper part of the battery gets hot and the lower part does not warm up. Typically, the issues stem from a damaged damper or any other conditions that obstruct the element’s proper operation and the free flow of heated fluid.

A valve or other independent installation of reinforcing reinforcement is necessary due to increased attention. The coolant’s movement direction is invariably indicated by the manufacturer directly on the case. This component should be installed in compliance with such labeling. The primary cause of the unproblematic water flow is any infraction of the installation guidelines.

Check the bypass

The bypass system operates on a straightforward principle. More coolant flows through the heating device in proportion to the strength of the valve blockage. higher heat transfer and temperature, respectively.

If the Bypas Crane is open, attempt to partially block it. The radiator sections should become hotter. If this doesn’t occur, virtually shut off the valve. The valve malfunctions if the radiator does not heat up following the overlap of the bypass. Replacing it is your only option.

Don’t totally shut off the bypass! You will block the entire system if coolant or water does not flow through the radiator for whatever reason. Both the pressure and the constant danger of falling off a cliff will increase.


The issue arises in apartments where one or two risers are the source of all the batteries. If the riser is in the general corridor or the entrance, you might not be aware that thermoregulators are mounted on the pipes.

If a thermostat is present, make sure it is not set too low. Raise it if needed. It is probably broken if, after this, the batteries’ temperature does not change in any way.

Stream strength

If the heating batteries’ temperature dropped abruptly, there might be a flow rate issue. They could adjust the heat meter or thermal controller’s settings, or they could block the damper while working.

The riser will continue to be heated because of a tiny variation in the water or coolant pressure. Additionally, the batteries’ temperature will decrease. Additionally, this will impact every radiator that is attached to the riser. Make expert contact if your neighbors are experiencing the same issue.

Valves in the ranks?

Usually, the presentation and return valves are taken into consideration by each radiator. You can change the coolant or water flow rate with their assistance. Throughput may drop if one or both of the valves fail.

The operation of the valves can be experimentally verified. Attempt to open or cover them. Everything is in order if, after 5 to 15 minutes (depending on the type of battery), the radiator’s surface temperature changes. If not, there may be a single or dual valve issue.

You will need to drain the water and block the riser in order to identify the cause. Disconnect the heating radiator and check the valves after that. See if they cross over into the channel. You must replace if either or both of them failed.

Air traffic jam

Usually, upper floors of apartment buildings are where this occurs. You must install the Maevsky cranes as a precaution.

The cross -section of the supply pipe is.

The battery is only halfway cold, the heating element is correctly positioned, and it is brand-new with no air inside. The installation of a crane or a thermostat with a constrained flow section is the cause. What does that signify? A radiator receives twice as much coolant entering the pipe through a narrowed cross section. As a result, the radiator’s surface temperature drops due to a decrease in the speed of water movement within the radiator.

What needs to be done?

Perform the crane disassembly in front of the heating source. Make sure to consult an expert before selecting a new device. In order to ensure that the coolant in the circuit moves as intended, he must compute the crane’s desired cross-section.

Dirt, where?

The system produces dirt. This is the result of the low quality water purification process and the metal-water interaction. Regretfully, it is challenging to regulate this process.

The uselessness of earlier occurrences can be used to diagnose the presence of dirt in the radiator.

In this instance, we execute the following actions:

  • We close the locking reinforcement on the radiator;
  • Unscrew the connecting nuts and lower the water from the radiator;
  • Remove the battery with our own hands, clean mechanically and rinse with water.

Incorrect radiator?

Certain radiators have plugs installed in them. They direct the water or coolant flow in the proper direction by overlapping one channel between the sections. These heating batteries have to be installed in compliance with the guidelines, taking into account the kind of connection.

Certain connections require the use of a plug. It enables you to disperse coolant or water uniformly throughout the heating device’s whole volume. Its presence will only cause harm because the battery will be cold and the riser’s pipes will be hot.

Air plugs in one or more sections may result from the plug. Installed in the upper section of the heating radiator collector, it can stop air from being removed via the Maevsky crane.

You can check for the presence of a plug visually or by consulting the heating device’s documentation. Let’s take a closer look at the query using examples.

Side connection

The plug is placed between the first and second radiator sections if the first is hot and the others are cold or only slightly warm. The gap between the final and penultimate sections is obstructed if every section is heated and the final one is chilly. It must be taken out.

The radiator sections’ temperature decreases with pipe distance, which is significant due to lateral connection. There is no way to escape this. When there are many sections, the temperature difference is apparent.

Diagonal connection with lower feed

There shouldn’t be any issues with the plug in the heating radiator connected this way. In the event that there are two choices:

  • If the first section is significantly hotter than the rest-the plug stands below, between the 1st and 2nd;
  • If the last section is warmer, it is at the top between the last and the penultimate.

Diagonal connection with the upper feed

Plugs installed between sections 1 and 2 can be used with this kind of connection. It will be cold in every section if it is situated below, in between the penultimate and the last. It’s the latter that will stay hot.

How to eliminate the problem

Where the heating radiators are located, is it too cold? It is obvious why the heating battery is hot on top and cold below if it is not insulated, the walls are thin, and the windows and doors are left open all the time. It’s critical to take action to keep the room heated in such a circumstance!

The heating fluid should fall into the upper part, but instead it falls directly into the lower part if the batteries are connected incorrectly. How should one proceed? Change the locations of the pipes that control the heater’s input and output after disconnecting them.

When the heating system is fully shut off and the radiators are turned off, manipulations take place:

  • "Drama" the boiler;
  • Tight the liquid from pipes and radiators using cranes of the Maevsky or trigger air valves.

Run the system and leave it for a full day after making the necessary changes to the input and exit pipes. Why is the top of the radiator hot and the bottom still cold? Therefore, pipes are not the issue.

Be mindful of the pump. Maybe he didn’t succeed. Then, replacement or repair is required. It is best to replace the pump with a new one if we are discussing the winter months.

Аотому, как конструкция завоздушена, низ батареи ледяной позадаят. All you have to do is let out the air. Use Maevsky cranes or descent valves on radiators to assist with this. Redraw the system before you pour air into it.

Block the heating system in order to use the Maevsky crane to steal air.

Narrowed pipes conceal the issue of heating radiators that are only partially heated. They are either replaced with new ones, which is a laborious but effective process, or expanded using the required equipment.

Because of mud and other foreign objects clogging them, pipes might not be able to handle the weight. We must wash. For this:

  • the heating structure is turned off;
  • the pipeline is disassembled;
  • mechanically using a probe or a powerful stream of water, pollution from the inside of the radiator is removed.

The reason the battery’s top is hot and its bottom is cold could be due to a broken boiler.

In no circumstances should you disassemble the boiler yourself if you are certain that it is the cause of the radiators’ improper operation. This is a high-pressure device with intricate technical workings.

Boiler explosions can result from careless disassembly, particularly if the boiler runs on gas.

Furthermore, issues with the batteries themselves might be indicated by the heating radiator’s cold bottom and hot top. They’re probably backed up with mud. Resolving the issue will aid in cleaning with high steam or water pressure. Producing such manipulations independently is nearly impossible.

You’ll need expert assistance, so get in touch with the right business or property management firm for your residence. Replace the equipment with a new one if flushing did not solve the problem.

Elimination of dislikes with your own hands (step -by -step instructions)

The significant temperature differential between the radiator’s top and bottom is taken into consideration as one of the causes of the heating system’s improper operation. Choosing a course of action is still to be decided upon when they happen. It is important to recognize right away that you cannot solve every issue by yourself. In the event that you feel chilly in the space and notice a significant temperature differential between the battery’s upper and lower sections, you should take several steps sequentially.

  1. Check and open completely taps of feed and tap on battery pipes. If a malfunction is detected, it is necessary to replace the units of the repaired shut -off valves disabled or replace it completely if the repair is impossible.
  2. To steal an air traffic jam from the battery if there is a valve or a crane by setting a suitable fluid container and caution. In the presence of air, the water from the tap will break out with shocks with a characteristic hiss.
  3. If air discharge has not helped, you can start checking and, if necessary, cleaning the radiator from internal pollution. Closing the taps on the pipes and, by placing a suitable container under the radiator, unscrew the drain plug, the arising dark brown substance (almost black) will indicate the presence of pollution.
  4. If dirt, there is no air and provided that before the starting season, any plumbing work on the heating system was performed, the correct connection of the radiator should be checked. If improper installation is detected by yourself or calling masters from the company’s service house, it is necessary to bring the battery installation in accordance with the approved scheme.
  5. With low pressure and speed of circulation of the working fluid, when all other checks and measures are carried out, you need to call the management company or the organization that supply heat, find out the deadline for eliminating the problem.
  6. If the room is cold, then it is advisable to wait until it warms up, it is possible that the central heating was disabled during the absence of the owner. As the room warms, the difference in heating the top and bottom may return to normal.

Replacing radiators

You will need to replace the radiators if the system washing did not produce the desired outcome and the cause of the lack of heating is not the water supply risers or the sewer riser that was ordered to live a long time.

It’s crucial to think about the room you’re choosing batteries for. For instance, a chrome-coated stainless steel model would be an excellent choice for a plumbing unit. Consider the paint’s quality and its suitability for use in environments with elevated humidity levels. Selecting aluminum radiators is not advised for residents living above the eighth floor. This is because these batteries have low working pressure. Additionally, there is another disadvantage: aluminum radiators’ inner surfaces rust with time, making them unsuitable for continuous use.

Radiators with unique hangers made specifically for bathrooms are available. In addition to heating the space, they will, if needed, dry your linen. Don’t overlook the design elements that, when serving their designated purposes, have the potential to truly elevate your interior.

As you can see, there are numerous reasons why the battery can stay cold even when the riser is hot. In fact, you can quite independently ascertain the reason why this kind of issue occurred.

Just keep in mind that these problems need to be resolved by pertinent experts and organizations. They must be taken care of first because they are in charge of all systems in an apartment building and are essential to their operation. Why waste your time, money, energy, and strength when there are professionals whose job it is to remove these malfunctions?

In homes where the heating radiator feels hot at the top but cold at the bottom, it"s a common issue that often puzzles homeowners. This phenomenon occurs due to the natural behavior of hot air rising and cold air sinking, creating an imbalance in the distribution of warmth. The warm air rises, leaving the upper part of the radiator hot, while the lower part remains cooler as it"s filled with denser, colder air. This problem can result from various factors such as trapped air in the radiator, debris blocking the flow, or an improperly installed radiator. Fortunately, there are simple solutions to fix this issue. Bleeding the radiator to release trapped air, ensuring proper insulation, balancing the heating system, and checking for any blockages can help restore the radiator"s efficiency and provide consistent warmth throughout the space. By addressing these issues, homeowners can optimize their heating systems for better comfort and energy efficiency.

What to do if the batteries are clogged

When using batteries, the heating radiator can become clogged, which can cause a number of issues. Dirt builds up inside the devices as a result of air present and low-quality coolant. This is particularly valid at the beginning of the heating season. See here for the start and stop times of the heating.

Garbage and dirt can enter autonomous contours that don’t rely on central heating through an open hydraulic tank. The coolant circulation is disrupted as a result of particles and batteries settling at the bottom and in isolated corners of the battery. Batteries start to overheat. Furthermore, a significant obstruction causes radiators to either completely or partially cool.

The build-up of extra air and the creation of an air cork can also cause blockage. Bimetallic batteries nowadays are simple to maintain. In this instance, you can eliminate extra air by turning on a special tap. If there is a hissing issue with the air traffic coming from the hole. The coolant will run out of the tap if there is another issue. In this instance, shut off the faucet right away.

There is no such tap available for older cast-iron batteries. You will need to search for a coupling in air traffic, which is found on the pipe connection with the radiator approach. Dirty coolant will flow out of the tap when you turn the coupling. Once slightly dry, tighten your back. Place the container under the coupling first to avoid staining the floor. Keep in mind that partially unscrewing the coupling could result in flooding.

How to clean the clogged batteries

  • To clean the radiator from garbage and dirt, you will have to remove the device and rinse. Before starting the procedure, prepare a place for cleaning. It is better to clean radiators on the street or in the bathroom;
  • Previously, cover the bath with a dense fabric and insert a protective net into the drain hole to avoid damage to the enameled surface of the plumbing and prevent clogging of the pipeline;
  • Cross the valves and unscrew the nuts, gently drain the remaining water, remove the radiator and place it on the street or in the bathroom;
  • Back each section with a hammer or kiyanka so that rust and coating are more likely to fall off. Then gently shake the accumulated garbage from the inside;
  • For washing, use a special sealed hose to clean the battery under high pressure. If you just rinse the device under the tap or from the basin, it will not clean. Together with water, you can use special cleaners. For efficiency, pour hot water into the radiator and leave for half an hour, and then rinse;
  • If the radiator is strongly clogged, most likely the rest of the radiators are also clogged. In this case, you will have to wash each battery. Many bimetallic radiators are extremely cleaned, so a large number of solid particles and garbage accumulate inside. In addition, plaque and rust may appear;
  • With independent cleaning, be careful, because because of the hot coolant you can easily get a burn. It is better to entrust work to specialists. If you want to perform the procedure with your own hands, useful tips and recommendations will be found in the article “How to clean the heating battery”.

Locking reinforcement does not work

Contentious reinforcement controls and obstructs the coolant’s function. This comprises thermal drives with mechanical and electronic control, ball valves, and conical valves.

It is recommended by experts to install thermal guns for every radiator. Thus, you have the ability to change the temperature in every room. You can save up to 30% on heating if you correctly configure the system and choose the temperature.

You can see an arrow on the tap that points in the right direction for the coolant to flow. A misplaced tap or a malfunctioning valve will stop the circulation. For complete operation, the damper should also be closed.

The coolant circulation is disrupted when one of the components in shut-off valves malfunctions. Consequently, the battery or radiator’s lower section gets extremely cold. Verify the locking reinforcement’s serviceability if the last battery is cold or if the radiators are warm on top and cold below. If there are any flaws, speak with experts.

Methods of washing radiators and new methods of cleaning the inner surface

Rust, salt, and other contaminants coat the heating system’s interior surface while it is in use. All of this lowers the apartment’s air temperature considerably and makes it more difficult for hot water to circulate. Cleaning heating batteries on a regular basis removes obstructions and gets the heat carrier’s circulation back to normal.

Clean the heat exchanger equipped with cranes to the output and entrance is allowed even at a time when the central heating is already working, but with a hot riser the batteries remain cold. First of all, both taps are blocked, then remove the radiator using a suitable wrench and divide it into sections. The next part of the work does not require special skills – each element is well washed under a strong stream of water. If a lot of scale has accumulated inside and the sediment is simply not removed, you will have to fight it with the help of chemicals. After drying, the whole structure is assembled in the original appearance, and all joints are carefully sealed.

A plaque like that prevents the heating system from operating as intended.

Sturdy batteries that are too heavy to be taken out are immediately cleaned. To accomplish this, take out one plug and pour hot water—preferably under pressure—into it. Then, add a chemical solvent—calcified soda, for example—to the water. This stage involves draining the solution and adding clean water under pressure after the heating element has been left on for a few hours. It is best to do multiple rinses and to repeat the chemical treatment if needed. You can knock on the compartments a little bit before the water floods in to intensify the effect and encourage the raid to retreat away from the walls.

Flushing should ideally be completed prior to the commencement of the heating season, when the risers have already managed to blow but the utilities have not yet flooded the water system.

Professional equipment is available to remove deposits from heat exchangers, which can be difficult to turn off and clean. This equipment can be used to remove deposits during any season, including the heating season. Shock waves, compressed air, and high pressure are used to achieve the desired outcome. With the help of such equipment, pipes and radiators can both be cleaned.

The system can be cleared at any time of year with a strong device.

Cardinal measure – replacement of heating batteries

Unfortunately, it is no longer possible to revive the old radiators that heated the house for decades with the aid of washing. The batteries will have to be ruthlessly replaced with new ones if they still don’t warm up even after being thoroughly cleaned inside and using a heated riser. Radiators made of stainless steel or with a chrome finish work well in bathrooms. The quality of the paint should be considered when purchasing a painted radiator; under high humidity, the paint should be flawless.

The issue of inadequate heating will be resolved by the replacement radiator.

Installing aluminum heat exchangers in apartments above the eighth floor is not advised due to their low working pressure. Apart from this disadvantage, these products also have a major downside: their inner surface is prone to corrosion, so you shouldn’t count on them to last for many years.

Towel-resting radiators are made specifically for bathrooms. They accomplish their primary purpose as well as enabling you to gently hang towels for speedy drying. You can use unusual radiators, which are easy to find these days, to decorate the bathroom.

It is best to leave radiator replacement to the professionals because it is a difficult and time-consuming procedure. It goes without saying that the renovation should be scheduled for the time of year when the house’s heating is off.

It is advised to install chrome surfaces away from potential sprays to prevent unsightly patches from appearing on them all the time.

Typical errors when connecting radiators and methods for their elimination

Occasionally, there is a negligent picture—new radiators stay cold even though the old ones have at least somewhat heated—after the batteries have been changed. In this instance, the cause might have been a bad riser connection. The coolant circulation may be hampered and some battery sections may not be able to warm up sufficiently if the upper and lower pipes, which supply and drain water, are connected on the same side. This issue frequently arises in homes where the heating system’s water pressure is inadequate.

This seems like the ideal plan for connecting the battery.

Experts connect the input and exit diagonally (top and below from different sides) to prevent this; this configuration permits hot fluid to flow freely through all of the radiator’s compartments. Using drastic measures is not necessary if the system is already connected. You can use a unique extension cord in the shape of a cone tube to remedy the situation. It is attached to the fitting pipe that gives the battery hot water. By taking this action, you can change the entrance and greatly enhance circulation.

Because it can handle the task at any pressure, the diagonal arrangement of the incoming and outgoing pipes is thought to be the best connection for the heat exchanger.

What threatens ineffective operation of heating devices

Some homeowners think there’s no need to worry too much because things will work themselves out if the bimetallic radiators are only hot or cold at the bottom. In actuality, this issue is very inconvenient and may require a significant repair in the end:

  • The efficiency of heating devices is reduced.
  • Decrease in temperature in the room.
  • Correction of additional reinforcement does not allow to correct the situation.

Crucial! Remember that a slight temperature difference between the battery’s upper and lower sections does not always mean that there is a problem. Significant variations in heating also have an adverse effect on heating efficiency.

The new bimetallic radiators have the bottom, while the top is hot: possible causes

All models of heating the lower region are less powerful than the upper, as was already mentioned. This can be explained by the high heat transfer of bimetall, which allows the water to completely cool down during the passage. This explains the temperature differential that the owners find so bothersome.

When you shouldn"t worry

But considering the characteristics of this kind of instrument, there shouldn’t be any cause for concern with such minor changes—this is a typical scenario:

  • The only vertical channel in each section (for example, there are two of cast iron products).
  • A small diameter of the canal (little coolant), but effective heat transfer due to a special configuration of the ribs.
  • Profiled convection channels between sections contribute to enhanced heat transfer, regardless of which manufacturer of the battery – Italian or Russian.
  • The thin walls of the sections are quickly heated, but also cool just as quickly. Therefore, if you have bimetallic radiators at your home and the bottom is cold, and the top is hot at the devices, this property must be taken into account.

Probable reasons for uneven heat transfer

Even with similar trends, every case needs to be evaluated on its own merits. If three crucial elements are ignored—erroneous boiler power, pump power, and battery count calculations—then the likelihood of the following issues needs to be considered:

  • Air traffic jams are an inevitable consequence of measures to fill out the structure with a coolant. An additional symptom is gurgling or hissing sounds. Solution – installation of the crane of Maevsky.
  • Flooding of heating devices is the result of neglect of regular flushing of the system, especially in apartments with the central heating system.
  • Unsatisfactory circulation of the coolant – if the distant heating nodes are poorly heated, then it is worth considering this reason, in particular in systems with natural circulation. Solve the problem when the bimetallic radiators are hot and too cold at the top, the installation of a circulation pump will help.
  • Incorrect work of heating structure is a rather frequent factor when the bypass is not adjusted. Even experienced home craftsmen who know how to correctly install a battery with their own hands make mistakes in the commission of commissioning.
  • Problems of shut -off valves – a competent installation of these units does not yet guarantee that over time, the mechanism or electronic filling will not fail.

Why are bimetallic radiators after connecting at the top hot and cold at the bottom: the reason to check the compounds

Due to factors like "there’s nothing complicated here" and "why spend extra money if there are hands," many domestic masters choose for independent installation. This point of view is partially justified, but it is beneficial to support it with the scant theoretical data that is available. So let’s follow the "tops" now.

Incorrect installation of coolants: consequences

The primary crude error in two-pipe system installation is choosing the incorrect direction for coolant flow in the pipes and how to connect them. A typical mistake is to connect the return to the upper fitting of the heat exchanger and the pipe that the feed is carried along to the lower fitting. Face outcome:

  1. Circulation processes are violated, as a result – the efficiency of the system falls.
  2. The course of the removal of the coolant from the device is violated, one half of the battery will heat up, and the second – no.
  3. The efficiency falls, full heat transfer is impossible due to incomplete fullness with water.

The hot liquid stream enters the lower pipe, circles, and exits the heating device without heating any of the sections. Consequently, even with brand-new bimetallic radiators, the top is heated and the bottom is cold, lowering the system’s efficiency. The upper connection’s design prevents increased pressure from forming to remove water through the upper fitting, so it actually hinders the coolant from draining from the inside of the device.

The heated liquid tries to rise upward because, in contrast to the cold, it has a lower density. Water does not mix in the sections because it follows the path of least resistance.

How to rectify the situation

A skillful connection technique ensures that hot water is flowing from above and encourages it to travel along the upper manifold. Radiators can be connected diagonally when full heating is present. But you must make corrections because, as I believe, it is not always done. The following is the algorithm:

  • Disconnect the supply pipes from the fitting.
  • Adjust the system diagram, given that the supply flow goes through the upper pipe (it is connected to the upper pipe), and the return – through the lower.
  • Connect the components to the heat exchanger.
  • Open the feed and control the functioning of the system.

Half of the battery does not warm

The battery is split half-hot and half-cold. What can be done to ensure that the battery is fully heated and why doesn’t it heat up completely?

Paul battery vertically

Оогда половина батареи не греет по вертикали, это значит что она либо забита либо слишком длинная и обвязана по боковому подкляченя. You must insert the flow’s extension cord if there is no other way to reinforce perpendicularly.

How to set up an extension cord in a radiator for heating.

Horizontal battery

If the radiator’s lower portion is colder than its upper portion and only the upper portion heats up. This indicates insufficient radiator pressure. Nothing to do with it in gravity systems or riser systems where the feed and return are connected to a single riser.

How to tie a radiator so that it would warm to the maximum.

Starting with the most prevalent heat code in the battery, it is sufficient to heat only a small portion of the battery that is closer to the supply pipes. Additionally, the battery’s remote portion is still cold. The issue here is that the battery is attached to the side, and because of its length (long battery), it needs to be connected diagonally, or what’s known as diagonal strapping.

The percentage table shows losses in heat transfer during a one -sided connection of radiators. However, there is no technical possibility of bilateral tie of batteries. To do this, you can insert a special tube into the battery, the so -called extension cord used for the lateral – unilateral strapping of batteries. Detailed material about how to do it with your own hands.
In the second case, we will talk about batteries that warm half from above and the lower part of the battery remains cold. This problem must be solved by acceleration of the coolant in the heating system. And it is found mainly in the gravity systems of private houses in those cases when the thermal flow moves along the heating system with a low speed and manages to cool before the bottom of the radiator warms up. To correct this error, it is best to invite a specialist in heating systems who will determine how to correct the situation with insufficiently quick circulation of the coolant in the system. This is usually solved by the installation of a circulation pump on the boiler return. Which will accelerate the circulation of heat in the system and in the batteries themselves so that the latter began to fully warm up.

Issue Reason
Heating radiator above is hot, cold from below This happens due to air trapped in the radiator, preventing hot water from circulating evenly.
How to Fix Bleed the radiator to release trapped air. Use a radiator key to open the valve slightly until you hear a hissing sound, then close it once water starts to flow steadily. Repeat if necessary and check pressure levels.

You’re not alone if you’ve ever been irritated by a heating radiator that is cold at the bottom and hot at the top. This frequent problem can cause uncomfortable, uneven heating in rooms. However, why does it occur?

A radiator that is hot at the top and cold at the bottom usually indicates that air is trapped inside. The top portion of the radiator gets heated first as hot water enters it. On the other hand, air trapped at the bottom of the radiator serves as a barrier, preventing the heat from dispersing equally throughout it.

So, how can this annoying issue be resolved? Bleeding the radiator is one way to solve this. By releasing the trapped air, hot water can flow freely and heat the radiator as a whole when a radiator is bled. Depending on the kind of valve on your radiator, you’ll need either a radiator key or a flat-blade screwdriver to accomplish this. To open the valve at the top of the radiator, simply insert the key or screwdriver and turn it slowly counter-clockwise until a hissing sound is produced. The sound suggests that air is being released. Close the valve once the water begins to trickle out, and you’re done!

A build-up of sludge or debris inside the radiator is another potential reason why it is hot at the top and cold at the bottom. Minerals and other debris can build up in the water over time and create obstructions that stop the heat from circulating correctly. In this situation, power flushing the radiator system might be necessary to get rid of the accumulation and start up again. By attaching a specialized device to your heating system and using a high-pressure water flow to flush out the debris, you can perform power flushing.

In conclusion, a common problem that can be brought on by trapped air or a build-up of debris is a heating radiator that is hot at the top and cold at the bottom. Fortunately, it’s a problem that, with a few easy steps, can usually be resolved fairly quickly, like power flushing the system or bleeding the radiator. You can make sure that your house remains cozy and warm throughout the winter by taking quick action to resolve the problem.

Video on the topic

One of the bimetal connection circuits for lower or unknown feed.

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Michael Kuznetsov

I love to create beauty and comfort with my own hands. In my articles I share tips on warming the house and repairing with my own hands.

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