DIY corner fireplace: step -by -step instructions

Nothing compares to the atmosphere and coziness that a fireplace creates in a house. A fireplace is a great way to add some rustic charm to your home while also providing effective heating, especially in the winter. We have good news if you’ve been wanting to add a fireplace to your living area but are worried about the cost and complexity. As the focal point of your house, you can build your own corner fireplace with a few simple tools, supplies, and a little do-it-yourself attitude.

It’s a satisfying project to build your own corner fireplace because you can alter the design to suit your space and style preferences. There are countless options available to you, whether you want a contemporary electric fireplace or a classic brick one. Additionally, building your own fireplace can be a more affordable option than purchasing a prefabricated one, saving you money and increasing the value of your house.

We’ll take you through the entire process of creating a do-it-yourself corner fireplace in this step-by-step tutorial. Everything will be covered, including selecting the ideal site and assembling the required supplies, building the frame, setting up the firebox, and applying the final touches. You’ll quickly be savoring the coziness and beauty of your DIY fireplace with our simple-to-follow instructions and advice.

Features and advantages of corner fireplaces

The fireplace was originally intended to serve a more functional purpose than a decorative one, which is why it is situated in the room’s corner. The location at the intersection of walls was the most advantageous from both a heat engineering and a purely practical standpoint, since multiple rooms needed to be heated with the aid of a heating device. A full-fledged thermal unit would not fit in a small room, where a corner fireplace could be installed.

The house feels cozy, warm, and well-being emanates from the corner fireplace.

Homeowners were also drawn in by the fact that building a heating device was substantially less expensive than installing a traditional fireplace design. This is because, in contrast to the fastened models, which also require side walls, the angular structure only needs to have one facade built. Naturally, in the first scenario, a lot less material will be required, and the building time will be cut in half. Even though the fireplace no longer serves an extraordinary purpose, there is still a tendency to maximize space and minimize costs when building one.

Two categories can be applied to all corner fireplaces:

• symmetrical constructions;
• asymmetric fireplaces.

Fireplace in the symmetrical style with a semicircular entrance

When an installation is symmetrical, the furnace of the heating device is visually divided into two equal parts by the angle bisector, which passes through the center of the portal. In this instance, there are two possible layouts for the front panel: a straight line and an arc or broken line.

In an asymmetric fireplace, the furnace chamber moves to one side and frequently becomes one of the walls. The heating device itself has an open or closed firebox, similar to a fastener furnace, and a side wall to complement its portal. It is frequently replaced with a column made of stone or metal that has a distinctive design.

Corner fireplaces are almost perfect, and their characteristics determine many beneficial and practical aspects.

• Universality. Heating devices of this type can heat rooms with an area of more than 100 kV. m, therefore are suitable for small summer houses and overall country cottages.
• Saving space. The installation of a wood heat generator in the corner of the room will significantly save space. Symmetric models with a concave type portal can be optimized as much as possible.
• High thermal power. The heat from the fireplace spreads not only by convection, but also due to radiation. This allows you to raise the air temperature in the room from 0 ° C to +20 ° C in just 1-2 hours.
• The installation of the heating device in the corner allows you to heat three rooms in the house at once.
• The possibility of building a firebox of any configuration.

As you can see, there are numerous benefits to this design. Regarding the negative moments, corner models and fasteners are identical in this regard. You can’t set up a full-fledged smoke when the fuel chamber is open because there’s only enough traction to remove combustion products directly from the air. As a result of smoke carrying most of the heat outdoors, corner fireplace efficiency is rarely higher than 20%. There is no way to discuss heat buildup because the furnace walls cool down rapidly when firewood is burned.

An asymmetrical corner fireplace exudes elegance and style.

The fireplace is simply essential on wet autumn days because it allows a lot of air to pass through it, which helps to keep the room’s humidity levels within ideal bounds.

Constructive features

The chimney and fuel chamber are the two primary components of the corner fireplace. The heating device will be made from these components in the proper proportion for productivity and effectiveness. The fireplace table, at floor level and directly based on the foundation, is the base of the structure. In front of the fireplace is a preferred location. Refractory bricks are used to lay it out, and metal sheets or ceramic tiles are used to cover it. The platform must extend beyond the portal by at least 30 centimeters on each side in order to comply with fire safety regulations.

Device for a corner fireplace – drawing

The area beneath the fireplace table is where the firewood is placed. Although installing a grate is not part of the canonical design, it is frequently done so in order to improve the heating device’s performance. Furthermore, the lower blow in furnaces with a closed firebox lets you change the flame’s intensity. As a result, the combustion time of a single fuel bookmark can be extended, improving the structure’s efficiency.

The temperature beneath, which is covered in refractory materials and is similar to a furnace, is frequently higher than 1000 °C. The back wall is frequently faced with a sheet of "stainless steel" or a cast-iron slab to improve heat-emitting capacity. The back of the firebox has a forward slope to improve the fireplace’s heat transfer even more. You can now focus thermal energy on the floor by doing this.

Over the firebox, a smoke (heilo) is set up, featuring a camera shaped like a truncated pyramid with a small thoroughfare in front. This barrier acts as an additional barrier to keep smoke out of the room and stops cold air from mixing with the combustion products.

A smoke (fireplace) tooth is a protrusion on the back wall of the smoke collector that is essential to the formation of the so-called gas threshold. He made it possible to lower the burning gases’ flow rate and extend their time in the burning zone. Soot is prevented from falling into the combustion chamber by the fireplace tooth, which traps it in the chimney. For this reason, a door cleaning door is frequently installed next to a brick protrusion.

A traction-controlled valve is affixed to the chimney at the point of transition from Hail. When the firewood is fully burned, warm air from the room is layered over it.

The pipe used to remove combustion products is made in the same way as other wood furnace chimneys. The pipe is elevated above the roof ridge and at least five meters away from the servant (grate) to guarantee good traction.

The calculation of the main size

As previously mentioned, the fireplace’s firebox size and chimney section play a major role in ensuring proper operation. If the parameters are not followed, the stove will emit smoke into the room or the heating device’s thermal efficiency will drop dramatically. The following guidelines should be followed when designing a fireplace:

• The cross -sectional section should not exceed 2% of the total area of the room. The height of the working chamber is chosen so that it does not exceed a depth of more than 2 times.
• To determine the quadrature of the throat of the furnace, the area of the mouth is multiplied by a coefficient of 0.7.
• Top dimensions: Width should be 20–40% more than height.
• To calculate the depth of the working chamber, its height is multiplied by a coefficient of 0.5-0.7.
• If the design of the fireplace involves the presence of a lower blower, then the area of its channel in the light should be at least 200 kV. cm.

Regarding the chimney’s dimensions, its cross section cannot be smaller than 10% of the top-down window’s area. Experts advise keeping an eye on the conical opening form when constructing a chimney. In any case, the chimney’s dimensions should be at least Ø150 mm for a round riser and 140×270 mm for a brick structure.

The primary parameters of corner fireplaces can be computed using a variety of network programs. Additionally, pre-made tables that show the structural parameters of their individual parts based on the heated room’s area can be used. The following is one of them.

The main corner fireplace sizes according to the size of the heated room

You are welcome to make use of the current heating devices’ guests and schemes.

A straightforward corner fireplace

The size and design of the fireplace determine the precise quantity of material required. It is best to use the order scheme to determine the quantity of bricks. In this instance, the value that results from the computations is multiplied by the coefficient of 1.2, and each half or three-flower shown on the diagram is regarded as a complete brick. This will create a small supply in the event that something breaks during the unloading and transportation process. As for the solution, you will need one bucket of the finished pantry for every fifty bricks in order to perform seams that are 5 mm thick.

Necessary tools and materials

A minimal set of tools is required, and every home master has them most likely. The complete list of everything required is as follows:

• Tramibutka for soil compaction;
• bayonet shovel;
• rule for aligning the foundation;
• The patching cord, which will make the masonry perfectly even;
• hammer;
• building corner, plumb line and level;
• buckets for solution and water;
• laying for masonry;
• a hammer-stone, or, as it is also called, a small Kirk;
• Kelma (trowel);
• roulette;
• kiyanka with a rubber boy;
• angle grinder;
• cutting circles for stone and metal work;
• Passatigi.

You will need common household tools to lay the fireplace.

When building a fireplace, you’ll need to outfit a sturdy foundation. To do this, you must get ready:

• roofing material or any other roll material for waterproofing;
• A construction grid with cells of 100 mm in size to reinforce the foundation plate (other materials that are found on the farm can be used as an armoparian – segments of steel rod and reinforcement, pieces of pipes, corners, etc. D.);
• sand;
• crushed stone (fraction of 20-30 mm) or coarse grave granite score;
• Pilomaterial for the arrangement of formwork (it is best to use wide trimming boards, but various scraps, as well as wood -free wood materials);
• Cement of the M-400 or higher brand;
• nails for the assembly of formwork;
• Steel wire, if reinforcement belt is knitting from reinforcement or rod.

Chamotis brick is used to layout the furnace’s and chimney’s high-temperature areas.

• refractory brick-you can use any, but for ease of work it is better to take a sha-8 shaft with standard dimensions;
• red burned brick brand M-150 and above;
• facing brick (it is used for laying the outer surfaces, if another method of finishing is not supposed);
• cement;
• clay;
• sand;
• a steel corner with the sizes of shelves 50×50 mm or 60×60 mm (you will need the supports for overlapping the feed and the set of the furnace);
• boards, rails and plywood for the manufacture of the template, if the overlap of the fuel chamber is performed in the form of an arch;
• A metal valve of a special type – with a long handle;
• fireplace cassette, if the installation of factory -made fireboxes is supposed;
• heat -resistant thermal insulation from asbestos or basalt;
• Decoration Materials.

The finished mixture for laying furnaces can be used to prepare the solution instead of the individual parts. The shelves of construction stores carry a variety of heat-resistant compositions for building stoves and fireplaces.

Purchased mixtures can be used to create the masonry solution.

We will have to take care of the stove pipe. In the case of the manufacture of a chimney made of brick, you must think about the safety of its operation in advance. Since the feature of the heating device is almost a direct gas channel, there are frequent cases when burning particles of ash and soot fly out of intense burning from the chimney. The design will comply with fire safety standards if the chimney is equipped with a spark. To protect the vertical gas from atmospheric phenomena and the thrust will be enhanced by the deflector. In addition, he will protect the structure from the wind, preventing the formation of turbulent flows at the upper cut of the pipe.

Preparation for construction

Choosing a place

The corner structure delineates a remarkably limited range of potential locations for a heating device: the intersection of the room’s interior and exterior walls. However, the ease of installation and the unit’s operating thermal efficiency are both significantly impacted by the proper selection of installation location.

Since a fireplace needs a lot of air to operate properly, it is typically placed in the largest room—the living room or hallway. A minimum of 20 square meters must be included in the room’s size.

Expert stove installers advise placing a fireplace stove against the room’s interior walls. If not, the heating device’s heat capacity will inevitably decrease, and issues with the chimney’s operation could also arise.

It is not a good idea to position the fireplace across from windows or doors because when they are opened, a draft forms between the opening of the door or window and the firebox. Furthermore, it is imperative to monitor the state of the roofing skate’s proximity, as this will significantly streamline the chimney-building process. A brief chimney outside the structure also contrasts more tastefully with the roof’s background.

Pay close attention to the areas of the room where various wood heat generator components will come into contact with them. The chimney installation site should not have beams or rafters, and laying supporting lag beneath a wooden floor is prohibited.

No matter where the installation is located, you can guarantee consistent traction with a closed-type fireplace. Smoke is rarely released into the room when the heating unit with a cast-iron cassette is operating.

How to build a foundation

The ideal option is to arrange the base of the fireplace stove at the stage of erecting the house. In this case, the filling of the plate can be performed with the same solution that is used to build a tape foundation of the building. The only condition is that between the structures it is necessary to provide a gap with a width of 5 to 10 mm. The fact is that the massive walls of the building will eventually give siege. At the same time, individual parts of the fireplace will be shifted, and this is fraught with the appearance of cracks and ruptures in the walls of its chambers. So that this does not happen, the foundation of the heating device is never connected to the base of the house.

Even if a fireplace is built while constructing a building, a separate foundation is still necessary.

You will have to take out some flooring if the fireplace needs to be built during renovations or repairs. If the home has hardwood flooring, it must be removed where the fireplace table is to be installed, leaving a space of 10 to 15 centimeters in either direction. You can use mechanical tools, such as an electrician or a manual circular saw, in addition to a traditional hacksaw for these purposes. They dig a pit that is between 0.5 and 0.6 meters deep in the opening that results. It is convenient to complete additional work in accordance with the below scheme.

The bottom of the pit is covered with a layer of sand with a thickness of no more than 15 cm. After that, the bulk material is compacted by tamping with subsequent spilling with water.

The walls of the pit may collapse in sandy or sandy ground, making construction work impossible. A plastic film covers the side surfaces to stop this from happening.

Narrow boards that have had their formwork removed will unavoidably still have gaps between them where cement can seep out. Avoiding such a problem is very easy: all you need to do is apply plastic film or another waterproofing material to the walls of a wooden frame.

Because a significant portion of the foundation is made of crushed stone, it is occasionally impossible to align the surface. In this instance, the base is constructed in two phases. Concrete is first filled into the 4/5 form, and it is then compacted. Ordinary cement-sand mortar is used to pour the remaining 1/5 of the mixture. After that, it is not difficult to form the foundation plate’s surface into the proper shape.

Preparation of a masonry solution

Though retail chains carry a wide variety of heat-resistant mixtures, seasoned stovers stick to the tried-and-true clay solution. He should use high-fat clay that has been soaked for one to two days prior to beginning work. As the final product passes through the sieve, insoluble lumps are broken up in the process. Consequently, a uniform consistency will enable the application of a brick to any seam up to the suggested 3 mm in thickness.

Sand is sieved before it is combined with clay pulp. Large river sand is preferred by experts, but you can also use regular sand that is extracted from quarries.

The fact that we indicated that using fatty clay is ideal is not by accident. The truth is that it is less cracked now that it has dried. If you are able to obtain blue clay, you should know that it is the best material available for laying furnaces. In any case, stovers with a wealth of experience say this.

It is essential to ascertain the precise composition of the clay solution prior to laying.

Just before the masonry process begins, sand is added to the clay solution. Since the amount depends on the material’s fat content, the right proportion is found using the following method: Rolling the ball out of the solution, it is slightly bigger than a ping-pong ball and placed between two even planks. Gently compressing them together, observing when the lump starts to fracture:

• If the sphere falls apart almost immediately, then this indicates an increased sand content in the solution;
• If the ball is compressed to half the diameter, and the cracks never appeared, then the sand in the clay mixture is not enough.

A perfect match is the ratio, which causes cracks to show up when a lump is compressed to a third of its diameter. Masonry should only be done in this manner; otherwise, the strength and tightness of the seams cannot be questioned.

Coal of corner fireplace: step -by -step instructions

Skilled experts possess unique strategies and accomplishments. We’ll give you access to a few of them:

1. It is necessary to remove all furniture and items of the situation from the room. Remember that the laying of the fireplace and starting it into operation is a very dusty and dirty matter.
2. You can start construction only after 28 days – it is such a period that is recommended by manufacturers of cement to complete concrete grabbing.
3. Before the work of bricks, it is necessary to soak for several hours in water. Otherwise, they will excessively dehydrate the masonry mixture, due to which the strength of the seams and the entire structure as a whole will decrease.
4. Even experienced stovers previously build a construction in a dry way, that is, without the use of a solution. This allows you to thoroughly understand the heating device scheme and avoid errors in the order. As for novice masters, they are recommended to lay out each row dry even after the work goes into the phase of thorough construction (using a sand-clan mixture).

We would also like to make a brief recommendation in return. Print the dysfunction’s schemes on different sheets of paper before you begin laying the first brick. The ranks can be spinned out during the process, which will prevent you from losing access to the account and save time on pointless checks.

When installing the fireplace, the seams should be no thicker than three to five millimeters.

You can’t pick up the kelm and start building the fireplace until you’ve taken care of every little detail. It is recommended that you follow the instructions that go over the characteristics of the masonry of the individual parts of the unit in order to properly organize the workflow and prevent errors.

1. The first rows are laid out not just exactly. They should be perfect because the geometric accuracy of the entire structure depends on it. You may even need to draw the contours of the fireplace table on the waterproofing of the foundation. Masonry is performed in full accordance with the order scheme.
2. The side walls that begin to lay out in the second row form a submachine space necessary for drying and storage of logs. Closer to the outer edge on a brick, it is necessary to lay a metal corner with a length of 600 mm. In the future, it will serve as a support for bricks of stove.

The bricks in the upper row will have dependable support from the metal corners.

Overlapping fireplace market

Because the furnace’s bottom is exposed to high temperatures, chamotis brick is used to lay it out.

Sometimes pricking brick is necessary during the masonry process.

Burning tooth

You’ll need wooden racks and plywood to create a template for the arched fireflow.

There is a rectangular furnace window in the fireplace portal that is being displayed. It can be done like an arch if that’s how you want it to look. This is accomplished by attaching a plywood and rack template to the back of the bricks. Pre-cut bricks in the same shape are placed "on a poke."

Installation of the chimney

The plan and the chimney shamefulness, which experts advise for equipping wood furnaces, should be examined by those who think that the stove pipe is just a direct conduit for the output of flue gases. It does, in fact, contain a rectangular-sectioned hollow pipe. Regarding the exterior, its arrangement serves a significant functional role.

Design and ordering of stone pipes

A rubble is a thickening at the junction with the ceiling. It is possible to lower the temperature of the outgoing gases and eliminate the need to install the heat-insulating layer by adding multiple rows of bricks. Installing a straight, thin riser will require multiple layers of asbestos or basalt plates to protect the overlap.

The so-called otter is received by an expanded chopped pipe at the roof level. Such a bruise serves another purpose, equally as significant as the aesthetic one. The otter shields the brick from damage during rain by preventing atmospheric precipitation from draining off the riser’s exterior. Regarding chimney protection, the pipe’s top is covered with a metal cap for this reason.

For the remainder, the same guidelines that apply to other wood furnaces must be followed when building fireplaces. The fireplace’s ability to operate is dependent upon the structure’s proper placement on the roof and the strength of the thrust. By closely examining the plan below, you can find the installation guidelines for the chimney.

The chimney’s installation circuit in relation to the skate and the building’s roof

Methods of fireplace decoration

When laying external walls, if premium facing brick was utilized, the rvsyo that will be needed to enhance the structure’s appearance is excluded from the seams. They are cleaned in this process, and then extensions—a specialized tool—are used to ennoble the exterior. In addition, the walls must be coated with a unique material and the brick imperfections polished. There is a major drawback to this method’s simplicity: the fireplace’s surface gets darker and less appealing over time.

Plastering the fireplace is a very easy way to make it look better. The best options for this are ready-made decorative compositions, which are available in a variety on the shelves of retail chains. Plastering should only begin once the fireplace’s walls have dried and begun to shrink. Water-based paint can be used to paint the portal if needed, but this should only be done after the final layer has fully dried.

A fireplace with natural stone trim that seems to have been transported from the time of knights and gorgeous women

There are lots of options available today for facing the fireplace with artificial or natural materials. Tiles will contribute to a stove’s brilliance and allure. They will totally alter the heating device’s entrance, turning it into a customized, cozy space. On the other hand, finishing with stone or marble slabs will give the impression that the structure is pricey and well-kept. Only heat-resistant types of ceramic tiles, such as terracotta, majolica, clinker, or porcelain stoneware, should be used to face the fireplace. Naturally, only specific, heat-resistant adhesive compounds should be used when laying facing materials.

Building a do-it-yourself corner fireplace can be a great way to add coziness and warmth to any room in your house. You can create a lovely and useful fireplace in a corner of your living room with the correct supplies and a little work. We’ll walk you through every step of creating your own corner fireplace in this post, from planning and preparation to the final touches. You can make a gorgeous fireplace that you’ll love to gather around with family and friends using our instructions, whether you’re an experienced do-it-yourselfer or a beginner looking for a fun project.

7 secrets of proper operation

1. The fireplace begins by opening the chimney valve and check the traction. At the slightest suspicion of reverse traction, gols should be cleaned, air supply holes and chimney.
2. If the fireplace was not used for a long time, then the kindling begins with the removal of cold air from the chimney. To push the air cork and create a positive traction force in the chimney, just light a pile of straw or dry paper under a gas channel. You can start the fireplace of the fireplace only by making sure of traction.
3. When choosing firewood, preference is given to aspen, birch, oak, Buko, Grab. Aspen firewood not only form the minimum amount of soot, but also contribute to the cleansing of the channels from soot. Stovers recommend every tenth furnace to carry out precisely aspen.
4. It is convenient to use wood wood chips, pine or spruce cones, as well as chips.
5. Do not load the furnace by more than 1/3 of the volume. This will create the optimal balance between the performance and efficiency of a wood heat generator.
6. Particular attention should be paid to the flow of fresh air into the room. If modern windows and doors are installed in the house, then it is necessary to provide a ventilation system.
7. With daily furnaces, soot is removed immediately after the end of the heating season. If the fire is fired only on weekends and holidays, then maintenance is carried out no more than once every three to four years.

Step	Description
1	Choose a suitable location for your corner fireplace, considering safety and aesthetics.
2	Prepare the area by clearing any obstacles and ensuring a stable foundation.
3	Build a sturdy base using bricks or concrete blocks.
4	Install a fireproof barrier around the fireplace area to protect nearby surfaces.
5	Construct the fireplace structure using fire-resistant materials like firebricks.
6	Install the fireplace insert or firebox following the manufacturer"s instructions.
7	Add a chimney or venting system to ensure proper ventilation.
8	Finish the fireplace with a mantel, tiles, or stone veneer to match your home"s décor.
9	Test the fireplace for functionality and safety before regular use.

In addition to providing warmth and ambience to your house, building a DIY corner fireplace can be a fun and fulfilling project that also makes a stunning focal point. You may personalize your fireplace to fit the décor and style of your house by following these easy steps.

For maximum durability and safety, use premium, fire-resistant materials when selecting materials for your corner fireplace. To design a fireplace that enhances the space without taking over, it is imperative to take the dimensions and layout of your room into account. Don’t forget to measure precisely and carefully plan the layout before beginning construction.

Make safety your top priority during construction and abide by all applicable local building codes and regulations. Seek advice from seasoned do-it-yourselfers or professionals if you’re unclear about any part of the project. By taking the time to complete the work correctly, you can have a fireplace that looks fantastic and operates safely and effectively.

After your do-it-yourself corner fireplace is finished, take some time to appreciate the warm ambience it creates in your house. Your new fireplace will surely become a treasured part of your living area for years to come, whether you’re curling up with a book on a chilly evening or throwing parties for family and friends.

Video on the topic

How to make a fireplace with your own hands 1 part

DIY fireplace is ready, first kindling..

Corner fireplace with an external air supply and cooling system! Corner fireplace shape.Part 4

The tooth in the fireplace is its true purpose, knowledge gained in practice for why the second double tooth

Ore upon fireplace with a portal of 1000×840 mm fireplace in the house of the fireplace for the house

How to make a fireplace tooth right. Part 2

Corner fireplace step -by -step assembly, nuances and secrets, says Mikhalych

Corner fireplace "Annushka"