Why the stove smoke

Nothing is cozier on a cold night than the warmth of a crackling fire. But what happens if smoke suddenly starts to blow into your living room, interrupting that reassuring scene? Many owners of stoves have experienced this annoying circumstance at some point. It’s important for your safety and comfort to know why your stove smokes.

Inadequate ventilation is one of the main causes of stove smoke. A stove that isn’t getting enough air has trouble burning fuel effectively, which produces smoke. This may occur if there is insufficient airflow in the room or if the chimney is blocked. If your home isn’t properly ventilated, smoke will naturally return inside.

Wet or unseasoned wood is another source of stove smoke. Moisture from improperly dried wood produces an excessive amount of smoke when it burns. Furthermore, compared to seasoned hardwoods, green wood or wood with a high resin content can emit more smoke. Smoke output can be greatly decreased by selecting the proper wood type and making sure it’s properly seasoned.

Furthermore, a major factor in smoke production is the layout and state of your stove. Smoke may escape into your home from a stove that is not well-maintained or designed, failing to effectively contain and burn the fuel. Other factors that can cause smoke problems include creosote accumulation in the chimney, leaks, or cracks.

Stove smoke must be dealt with right away to prevent discomfort and possible health risks. Smoke can aggravate pre-existing conditions such as allergies or asthma by irritating the respiratory system. In addition, breathing in smoke increases the chance of carbon monoxide poisoning, which can be lethal. Maintaining a secure and cozy home requires taking action to find and address the sources of stove smoke.

Reason	Solution
Cold Chimney	Preheat the chimney before lighting the fire.
Moist or Green Wood	Use seasoned wood to reduce smoke.
Restricted Airflow	Ensure proper ventilation and clean the flue.

What to do and who is to blame

Before figuring out why the stove is smoking while being tramped on, you should respond to a few frequently asked questions:

• What accompanies the smoke process?
• Smoke appeared immediately or after some time?
• How much the stove is already smoking?

Let’s now review a few particular scenarios:

Situation No. 1: Covering traction

When the stove is not used for several days, reverse traction may develop. During this time, air flows change direction, and when fuel ignites, a puff of smoke will greet you inside the house. Notably, the issue can arise on both warm summer days and chilly winter nights; the weather has no bearing on this.

A smoke curtain will form in the room if the air masses in the chimney move in the opposite direction.

Don’t hold the stove’s reverse traction appearance responsible. This phenomenon can occur in any stove structure, even one that is perfectly constructed.

Situation No. 2: Wind

Strong winds can occasionally be caused by the smoke blowing out of the house. The problem that follows has two possible solutions:

1. Increase the height of the pipe along with the head;

The likelihood of the combustion products blowing into the pipe decreases with increasing elevation

1. Change the configuration of the visor on the headline.

A unique aerodynamic cap eliminates all wind-related issues.

Situation No. 3: Errors in the stove masonry

If smoke enters the room again right after the furnace starts, this indicates that the chimney’s section is probably overestimated. You are not capable of fixing this on your own; the liver is to blame. You’ll need to get in touch with the stove master and pray that the case will be restricted to repairs rather than a full reconstruction of the building, as these tasks can be highly expensive.

Chimney pipe repair is significantly less expensive than completely disassembling and rebuilding the chimney from the ground up.

Situation No. 4: wear

A heating structure’s banal aging could be the cause of the furnace’s lack of traction, which would lead to:

• The ash accumulated on the inside of the chimney, narrowing its cross -section;

Because of the soot buildup in the chimney, the cross section of the chimney is reduced, which lowers the intensity of the air mass flow.

• Cracks appeared in the masonry, leading to the depressurization of the pipe.

The following are instructions for rectifying such a situation:

Photo	Description
	We clean it The inner part of the chimney. At the same time, you should not limit yourself to soot, if we are talking about a brick pipe, then it is immediately worth removing the dabble -up elements of the masonry.
	We close all the cracks stove solution, restore the masonry.

In the event that you lack the necessary abilities or your own efforts to remedy the situation prove fruitless, the stove master ought to be consulted. The outcome is guaranteed, even though the cost will be higher.

Situation No. 5: Errors in the masonry of the well

Smoking in the room with the door open is another issue that may occur as a result of the stovenik’s incompetence. It is interesting to note that the smoke naturally enters the pipe when you close it.

Оогда печь начинает дымить только при открытии дверцы, а при закрытии перестаёт, дело в допущении ошибок во время выполнения кладки колодца.

So why does opening the door cause the stove to smoke? All because the master was too close to the well’s entrance, and it is preferable for heated air and combustion products to pass through a higher door hole. This is evident in the scheme that follows:

Thermal gases will prefer to pass through the door hole because its upper edge is higher than the well’s entrance.

Given this justification for the smoke, you can handle building the furnace wall, the upper edge of which will surpass the upper edge of the doorway by a few tens of millimeters, as illustrated in the scheme:

The additional wall provides enough traction inside the firebox to prevent smoke from passing through the open door.

The iron door can stay open following this modernization, and air flows carrying combustion products will still flow in the direction of the well’s entrance.

The reasons why the stove can smoke

There could be a variety of explanations, such as the need for furnace maintenance. You are able to read about the furnace repair.

It is possible to identify the source of stove smoke well away from any.

• If your pipe is not equipped with a cap for protection from the wind, then in windy weather may also be blown. After installing good weather, just install the cap.

• When smoking from the door and/or blown, there may be an overgrown tree that does not allow air to go freely and beats gusts of wind into the pipe. In this case, the reverse traction is created and therefore smoke is not to the idea where it should be. The solution to the problem is very simple – remove the overgrown branches and free the space within the radius of the pipe.

• When the pipe is located below the roof skate. This is also the cause of air exchange violations. To eliminate the cause, it is necessary to build up the pipe.

• Bad weather in the form of wind, rain, low temperatures led to partial destruction of the masonry. The wind blows into the resulting cracks, air traffic jams appear and this prevents normal thrust. It is worth it, without delay, do repair work.

• Low -quality treatment door that is not capable of tightly covering the food hole. In this case, temporarily lay this space with a piece of brick, coated with clay solution. But remember, this is a temporary measure.

• If you use firewood for the furnace, vegetation remains from the personal plot, brushwood, straw – it is worth increasing the length of the blow. How? Put at its end half of the brick and on the rib.

• With a defect in a furnace chamber. This can be determined by seeing smoke when opening the door. If a welded oven is located in the immediate vicinity of it, put the bricks on the rib of bricks along it with a fan of the door frame. If the gas outlet is made below the furnace door or at its level, make a jumper of bricks at the back wall of the fuel at the back of the fuel. This will contribute to the occurrence of traction.

• There are cases when smoke passes through a loosely closed valve of the summer move and has a whitish shade. See if there is an extraneous object in the pipe (a broken piece of brick, branch, t.P.). It is possible that chimneys have not been cleaned from soot for a long time.

Methods of normalization of traction

To sum up, let’s reiterate how to strengthen shaky traction and keep it from toppling over. The method of choice is determined by the reasons behind the air flow violations. It is occasionally advised to take multiple approaches and seek advice from experts to avoid making even more mistakes.

Structural changes in the chimney

• It was a little higher that the chimney can be made incorrectly:
• too low the upper edge of the pipe;
• narrowed passages;
• many extra bends and t. P.

These flaws need to be fixed.

Stabilizing devices

One of the best options is a dependable chimney traction stabilizer. Devices of the modern type are automated. When issues with the strength and direction of airflows in the chimney have arisen, turning on the device suffices. The device itself shuts off as soon as the pressure level reaches the ideal level.

• Such a device makes significant contribution to the improvement of traction:
• We are talking about expanding in the form of an umbrella on a chimney;
• Under the umbrella there is an open area for air access;
• Under the cap of the umbrella is a thermal attemptor to register the temperature of the gases rising up from the furnace or column;
• The sensor is automatically turned off due to overheating accumulated by the grooves accumulated during poor rod.

Deflectors

These devices’ job is to increase thrust as a result of airflow deviation. The operating principle is predicated on the observation that pressure decreases as obstacles pass through. Absence of products: nearly nil in calm conditions.

Not only is the deflector ineffective when there is no wind on the road, but it can also make traction worse.

Rotation pipes

Over the top of the chimney head is a turbine. A turbine nozzle rotates due to wind energy. There is always one direction of rotation, which causes a vacuum to form over the smoke channel.

Regretfully, the rotating pipe’s effectiveness is negligible during calm weather. However, the precipitation and waste entering the chimney are virtually completely blocked. A step-by-step instruction video will assist you in understanding all the nuances of this technique.

Another benefit of rotating pipes is that the turbine keeps working even when the heating is turned off.

Revision of ventilation system

• In most cases, it is enough to analyze the ventilation in the house, and thereby eliminate the reverse traction. As noted above, it should be carefully:
• regulate the formation of drafts;
• prevent air vacuum in a heated room;
• if necessary, install ventilation devices on the windows.

Remember always: there shouldn’t be a return for traction. Severe overturning poses a risk of sparks landing in the surrounding objects, which could ignite them and cause smoke to fill the room. If there are issues, ask a knowledgeable specialist to help with the traction issue.

Shook bricks another reason for smoke

Frequent temperature variations have a detrimental effect on the masonry of the chimney’s first channels, or fuel, where cracks are most likely to occur. The glue that holds the bricks together causes them to become agitated. These domains change:

1. First select quality material with perfectly smooth walls.
2. Damaged bricks are carefully removed from the damaged masonry, removing the remains of the old solution.
3. The surface is cleaned using the metal brush.
4. When repairing the furnace, a clay solution is applied to the prepared surface, paying special attention to the lower parts of the recess (the places from which the brick is taken out).
5. Put a new block, following during this how exactly the brick enters the niche. If trimming was carried out, then it is inserted into the groove so that the smooth side is inside – from the outpatient gases.

It’s critical to monitor whether smoke is coming from the stove in the kitchen or throughout the house. Should this phenomenon only be noticed during the winter, the pipe and chimney’s high thermal conductivity is the likely cause.

In this instance, the surface is plastered after all external seams are opened and re-smoked by clay. Simultaneously, the newly applied plaster layer needs to be 1-2 cm thicker than the prior layer. Specifically purchased mastic can be used to cover the furnaces.

Incorrect furnace design consequences

When building a furnace, insufficient stove qualifications result in mistakes. After the furnace is ignited for the first time, the smoke from the residence is noticed. The new furnace’s undersized chimney section is overestimated, which results in a slow rate of combustion product removal. Finishing the structure is the first step toward self-solving the problem.

Heating system wear

Smoke from heating communications systems can slowly enter a home. The cause is determined by how worn out the bricks were when the fireplace was built. While in use, most frequently:

• The internal laying of the chimney is destroyed – cracks form, which depressurize the pipe, clutter up the chimney;
• soot and ash, accumulated over the years of using a wood or coal furnace, narrow the cross section of the element and prevent the departure of smoke during combustion.

If you are a certified furnace master, you have a right to attempt fixing the furnace on your own. A unique stove solution is applied to the chimney cracks, and brick is used to repair the brickwork.

Incorrect masonry of the well

When the door closed, the smoke does not go inside the room or is present in small quantities. But just worth open the sash – puffs of smoke burst into the house.
Why can a stove with an open door? The reason is that when building the system, the master made gross errors. An incorrectly formed well with the upper edge of the door, a large level of entrance leads to a seep of smoke.
ERRACTS can be eliminated by raising the entrance higher than the door hole. If it is impossible to transfer, the damper is attached so that its edge is above the top -top door. The last design will serve as an amplifier of the chimney thrust and normalizes the departure of combustion products.

Combustion does not occur in the furnace

Partially, flying sparks and puffs of smoke indicate that combustion happens in the smoke drain’s channels rather than the firebox itself. Although there isn’t a universal solution for these circumstances, experts suggest avoiding overloading the furnace with coal or firewood. Try to limit the amount of fuel used per serving as you approach the trampling of your stove.

There is no distribution box

If two systems in the house share a channel for draining smoke without a distribution box, the stove will smoke. Establishing a distribution box between two channels will remove the need for sunning. It looks like a brick partition and is simple to build, but it takes time and the right tools.

The presence of cracks in the masonry

If there are fissures in the mortar between the masonry and other components, poor combustion results in smoke.

You can attempt to fix the external gaps to increase the thrust. For this:

• prepare a special solution of sand and clay, in which a little water is added. The mass is kneaded with the hands to the state of a thick dough;
• places with cracks are moistened with water for better adhesion to the solution;
• Cracks are covered with a dense layer.

The composition is applied twice, but the strength effect is only achieved after the first layer has dried completely.

Smoke in the wrong height of the chimney

The reason the stove may smoke also depends on the chimney’s height, which maintains the furnace’s proper operation.

A rule exists that establishes the permissible elevation of the system:

• The chimney lengthens by 0.5 m when it is removed from the skate no more than 1, 5 m.
• at the same level with the ridge, or increase the distance when placing an element at a height of 1.5 – 3 m;
• Not lower than the angle of 10% of the skate level, if the distance from it is more than 3 m.

In the event that the pipe’s height proves to be inadequate, raising it on its own will be a practical fix. The amount of smoke produced will be less if you attempt to clean the chimney entirely by hand.

The stove smoke in the bathhouse what to do

For the same reasons as the house, the bath’s furnace may be obstructed. Moreover. However, there are particular causes for its smoke as well. The air that the bath stove burns is extremely moist. Second, the stove from the laundry to the washing is protruding with it, so the bathhouse won’t always be submerged. Thirdly, steel-welded bath stoves are common, but cast-iron stoves are the best option. Rarely are bricks needed for a new building bath supplied, and in an old brick stove, dampers are located between the furnace and the stove.

To save construction work, a chimney to a brick furnace in an old bath is often attached in the same manner as in residential buildings (pos. 1 in Fig.): A steel pipe is taken out of the attic closer to the roof skate, and a brick booth (a sunbed, horizontal chimney knee) is constructed there. The bathhouse is tiny and low, making it challenging to install a high pipe.

The accumulation of loose soot in a metal chimney and the need to insulate the chimney to get rid of it

When all of this is combined, fluffy, amorphous soot precipitates more frequently (pos. 2) and clogs the chimney more quickly. The soot can tighten its whole clearance for one fireplace, Pos. 3, if you load the stove with peat, brown coal, or raw firewood. Moreover, an air cork can develop in a chimney with this design with ease (see. Further) because the wow’s horizontal column of cold air perfectly supports it.

The following signs indicate a buildup of fluffy soot in a stove’s chimney:

• Checking the thrust before trampling (see. An article about the furnace of the stoves) shows its sufficiency; It is impossible to check the traction on the treatment door behind the absence of such.
• The kindergarten passes normally, but the initial fuel load is flared up for a long time.
• When loading fuel, the flame immediately blushes and the stove begins to smoke.
• When trying to increase the supply of air, opening it, the stove is choking, thick smoke is falling from it, and frenzy comes.
• With a firebox, unnecessary fuel is possible to chop and smoke a properly melted and launched furnace on the go.

Generally speaking, there are no major issues when cleaning the bath furnace’s chimney because of its short knee and the ease with which it can be "torn" with a long stick broom (a broom made of rods without leaves). An unconventional method of eliminating a fluffy soot fall is to insulate a steel chimney (see Fig. 4, pos. 4). When the temperature in a chimney drops below 80 degrees, fluffy soot starts to move and eventually multiplies. A fluffy soot won’t be too scared if the temperature at the chimney’s mouth is at least 100 degrees.

Note: Before insulating the chimney, make sure to confirm that the roof pie pipe’s fire cutting is done in accordance with the rules. Is strengthening required? This will cause the pipe to get much hotter.

If the bath stove pipe has a volert-Grigorovich deflector installed in addition to insulation, the possibility of a fluffy soot precipitation can be completely eliminated. A short chimney’s traction increases in direct proportion to its warming; during the brief period that the bath stove cools down, all of the leftover flue gas residue, along with the beginnings of fluffy soot, will be expelled. Simultaneously, the thrust won’t be overly strong until the chimney warms up, and it won’t be difficult to move the furnace just for working purposes. It is quite possible to make the Volpert-Grigorovich deflector by hand, as you can see. a video clip

Video: Volpert-Grigorovich deflector to increase traction in the furnace

Note: Too large and/or loaded with too severe excessively warm -intensive, but poorly conducting heat stones, are one more reason to smoke a bathhouse with symptoms akin to the deposition of fluffy soot. granite. If the stove is erratic "in a small way" and the chimney is clean, try partially emptying it; the smoke should eventually stop. About other problems with the elimination of smoking a new furnace in the old bath cm. The plot is also shown below:

Video: New oven in the bath – installation and why he smokes

If smoke appears

Experience demonstrates that "old woman" is still in vogue today. Thus, the query is pertinent. There is a market for "bourgeois" and other metal "thermal equipment." They are made up of a chimney and furnace. It would appear more straightforward and easier. However, why do iron stoves emit smoke? Possible causes include a loose door and a soot raid that narrowed the chimney. Internal smoke channels in brick stoves contribute to extended heat retention.

The care of professional stovers and chimney sweepers is one of the precedents that deviates from the long-standing procedure. Nonetheless, there are certain issues that the owner can identify for themselves.

Thus, all was well until all of a sudden (and maybe somewhere else) there was smoke. This should warn any reasonable owner that depressurization may have taken place, which is dangerous because it increases the risk of fire as well as the waste of coal or firewood.

Reverse traction temperature and humidity

Why does the stove smoke into the house?

The principles of physics underpin the natural extraction of smoke gases through the pipe. The most significant factor in this situation is the temperature in the room and on the street, as well as the variation between the two.

The curse of warm weather in the off-season is poor craving. For instance, you need specialized knowledge to melt the bake in the fall after the summer hiatus so that smoke does not enter the house.

Furthermore, if the owners were leaving the house, air could "stand" in the cold, and he was shrewd. There won’t be any traction if the temperature inside and outside is the same.

Humidity may be a factor. For instance, the temperature balance is broken and the craving gets worse when oblique rains occur and water gets inside the pipe.

Burn paper when it’s spent, in warm weather or in a frozen house. It must be inserted as far as possible into the oven; if that doesn’t work, it must be inserted through the cleaning door into the far well. A tiny bonfire made of paper or tiny slivers is set up closer to the pipe. The brick needs to be warmed up by doing this. Traction will be established and warm air will ascend.

In hot weather, installing traction is very challenging.

Why is this effect arise

Who is at fault and where does it originate? The most frequent cause, of course, is an error in the chimney’s design. Moreover, other well-liked "culprits" include trash in the chimney, forceful airflows within the pipe, and even specific atmospheric phenomena.

Reason #1 – chimney design

First and foremost, the chimney’s design is important; if it is too high, the thrust will always be strong, and if it is too low, it will frequently be insufficient. The ideal length is just over five meters, after which traction issues are rare and most definitely not caused by the pipe’s height.

Additionally, the size of the chimney section should match the stove; if the sections are too small and the furnace is too powerful, the large volume of combustion products will not be able to exit the system normally and enough traction will not be created. As people like to say, "will fly into the pipe," the volumetric chimney will cause everything to become disproportionately warm. Furthermore, pipes with varying diameters placed in different places at the chimney should never be installed; this will cause soot and traction issues.

The uneven surface of the pipe poses a significant barrier to the flow of smoke because any deposits reduce the pipe’s diameter and make melting the furnace more challenging and complex each time. The difficulties arise from the angles of inclination with the turns of the chimney; if soot is continuously accumulating in the corners, it will also hinder normal thrust. Follow the recommended guidelines when building: a 45° divert and a 90° rotation, to avoid this.

The shape of the smoke hole itself is also significant; a round hole provides the best traction, but square and rectangular holes frequently cause issues. Hence, there is an extra twist in these corners, which somewhat obstructs the overall flow and lessens the craving overall.

It should be noted that poor traction is most frequently an issue with metal chimneys. Their problem is that they heat up quickly, but they also cool down quickly, and cold air always descends. In this sense, traditional brick chimneys are more dependable.

Reason #2 – ventilation violation

Such adversity can also result from inadequate ventilation in the room where the stove is drowning. Verify whether drafts are present; are they excessively strong? Regardless of how bizarre it may sound, such vortices right in the room can "confuse" the direction of smoke. Incidentally, the stairs leading to the second floor are often the cause of intense air flows in baths. As you do so, remember never to open the landing windows if the level is higher than the furnace.

If you have a gas column in a boiler room, be sure to pay attention to ventilation as well. Even so, it will continue to draw air out of the burning room, eventually creating a severe oxygen shortage and a critical air vacuum.

Occasionally, air will seep through the chimney, extinguish the column, and cause smoke to fill the room. Such a circumstance exists for you? Measuring the worth of plastic windows while deaf? Attend to the ventilation problem immediately.

Reason #3 – external factors

Strong winds and the high humidity on the street can also cause smoke to enter the room. Or the same pressure differential when it’s already evident that the street is warmer than the interior of the house. Should there be a motive behind this, you will undoubtedly detect Gary’s disagreeable odor. Simply crack the window, let some fresh air in, and wait for the temperature to stabilize.

Very rarely, but it does occasionally happen that the wind causes the chimney to twist over the roof when there are nearby buildings and too many branches on the trees. This is the reason why there is no normal traction in the chimney. Or it is not incorrect to direct the head of the roof in this way, and this occurs.

And lastly, the role also affects the precise location of your chimney. It has a positive impact on the system’s heating capacity inside the bath and enables severe traction to be maintained even in freezing temperatures. However, the external, which runs parallel to the outer wall, warms up more slowly and frequently develops condensation.

Why the stove smoke the most common possible causes

In the event that you continue to experience this unpleasant occurrence, you should begin investigating the cause of the issue. It is advised to begin the inspection process with a chimney. A blockage in a pipe is frequently caused by an unrelated object. Usually, when something like this happens, the stove starts smoking out of the blue; prior to that, there were no issues, so the craving was satisfied. If a protective cap is not put on the chimney, foreign objects are frequently fed into it.

Garbage is not the only possible source of the issue. For example, the channel narrows because of a brick that fell from the chimney or because birds left their dried-out nest marks on it.

Strong wind gusts may cause the craving to be abysmal if the pipe isn’t covered. Here, everything is subject to the rules of physics. The exit route obstructs the smoke because the air mass causes an obstruction in the chimney. It is not difficult to determine that this is the problem. After all, the craving will be normal during nice, calm weather, and smoke will only appear during wind gusts. Therefore, installing a cap solves the issue.

Smoke may very well appear in the furnaces that are used erratically during traction. The issue is that, in this instance, the chimney contains a type of cork from cold air. She is the one who takes up the thrust. To resolve this issue, you can consult knowledgeable stoves for advice. For instance, burning a piece of paper right before the furnace is tramped on is advised. There’s an even better solution. Light a torch and approach the smokebone.

Both of these techniques have proven to be very successful in practice. After completing these easy steps, the cold air starts to warm up and rise, absorbing the cork on its own. It is important to note that metal furnaces placed in saunas and baths also have this issue, in addition to brick furnaces. If your home is two stories, you should be aware that the cork forms in the area where the chimney’s horizontal section is located on the second floor. The length of this site, when laid properly, shouldn’t be more than two meters. If not, issues will arise frequently.

An inadequate chimney length may result in smoke.

This is a crucial moment. The guidelines for building furnaces state that this indicator must be higher than the roof skate by a specific amount.

Let’s take a closer look at this specific moment. Specifically, when the pipe is farther away from the skate than one and a half meters, its length should be fifty centimeters longer than its height. For different distances, different values are pertinent. For instance, the pipe height shouldn’t be any lower than an angle of 10 degrees from its level if the remoteness is greater than 3 meters. Last but not least, average distances. Specifically, the chimney should terminate at the skate level or beyond when the distance is between 1.5 and 3 meters.

Traction won’t be enough if these guidelines are broken. Wind flows that enter the chimney outside will start to occur as a result of the obstruction to the outgoing smoke. In such a case, the only way to solve the issue is to increase the pipe. It is more prudent to perform a significant overhaul that includes masonry and sleeve restoration when there is significant wear on the chimney.

Soot adhering to the pipe walls is the most frequent source of smoke. As a result, the chimney’s internal diameter is greatly reduced—often to the point where the internal smoke that builds up seeps through all of the cracks in the exit. It should be mentioned that the furnace’s ability to operate affects the soot sticking process. The burning of coniferous trees in the stove also aids in its formation.

Also see: How to build a water circuit heating stove.

The chimney needs to be cleaned in order to solve the issue. You’ll need specific tools for this:

Let’s examine this process in more detail. Specifically, the cable-attached weight needs to be lowered into the pipe first. As a result, you will locate the pipe’s narrowing location. A barrier to smoking frequently becomes a third-party issue. You should throw the pipe with force in order to push it down. Following that, you can move on to the next step, which involves using a ruff to clean the chimney. It should be mentioned that its measurements ought to be marginally greater than the pipe’s diameter. They move the top and bottom of the chimney in a series of motions to remove soot.

Checking the quality of traction in a chimney pipe

In order to determine the best course of action for removing the furnace’s smoke, the thrust in the chimneous system must be evaluated. One of these approaches is used to perform the check:

1. Using anemometer. High -precision professional device for determining smoke traction.
2. The ignition of the flammable material. Burning material is brought to the chimney – with good traction, the flame is fixed upward, with poor traction or its absence – remains real estate.
3. Visual verification. If a dark red tint acquires a dark one when trampling a stove, this indicates a decrease in traction. Good traction provides a bright, almost white flame.
4. The presence of a smell of smoke. If pungent odors appear with an open firebox, this indicates mechanical clogging of the chimney system.

There are enough explanations for why the heating furnace starts to smoke. It is necessary to consider the following factors in each unique situation: the type of smoke (temporary or permanent), its duration, the temperature regime of the premises, the weather, the features of the design, and the equipment’s lifespan.

The likelihood of smoking the building is low, depending on how the furnace is lit and arranged technologically. However, if the issue is still found, prompt diagnosis and problem-solving will guarantee a long operating life for the heating apparatus.

Revelation of reverse traction

The movement of air flows in the opposite direction—back into the room rather than through the chimney—is denoted by a term. The name itself gives it away: the gases released during fuel combustion flow back into the room rather than out. The network has a ton of video that has thorough descriptions.

It is advised to assess the thrust’s direction and strength with the ventilation devices (if any) disconnected prior to launching any heating device.

Traditional techniques

• We’ll talk about the factors and the reasons a little lower, and now let"s figure out what to do in order to identify the fact of clipping traction:
• If the glass in the glass is a glass door (for example, in fireplaces, such an element occurs quite often) – through the glass you can clearly see how it is quickly smoked. It is only necessary to open the door, and the cloud of smoke immediately breaks out, that is, into the room;
• It is enough to attach a sheet of thin paper to the opening of an open firebox and see which way it deviates. The same will also show a smoking cigarette instead of a paper leaflet.

Expert techniquesWith the utmost accuracy, traction in a chimney can be measured in pressure units thanks to measuring equipment. Within 10–20 PA, normal indicators are taken into account.

• Measurements are made by two -way method:
• at the top of the chimney;
• its foundation.

This method is hardly necessary for a private residence, though, as most people are surrounded by folk visual ways.

When wind speeds are less than 1 m/mm, the anemometer cannot provide objective data. That is, using such a device in calm weather is absurd.

Visual cues

• If the ratio of combustion and traction processes is normal, then:
• The flame has a yellow color with a golden tint;
• smoke appears and immediately disappears into the chimney channel – without jerks, smoothly and at the same time energetically.

When a person’s typical craving is excessively strong, it is not a good situation. Fuel will run out too quickly. Excessive traction is indicated by the white color of the flame and the rumble in the chimney pipe.

How to protect yourself from moisture

Over the wet summer, shimmers were full. After thoroughly drying them, either apply the dry alcohol pill or open the lower cleaning and disintegrate a small bonfire of small chills inside. Play parallel with the oven. Clean the cleaning once more after the traction has been restored.

You might also find this article to be interesting.

There might not be a single reason to smoke in inclement or wet weather. It is a fact that some smoke passes have a lengthy, curved layout. Possess multiple knees and a tall stature. Others—well, they labor firsthand.

Because damp smoke passes through the pipe quickly cools and condenses, an air cork may occur if snow or rain gets inside the pipe. Another option is to install a cap or umbrella over the pipe’s head.

What makes the difference? The umbrella is mounted at a distance from the pipe and is composed of metal or tin. Since the cap is a component of the brickwork, it completely closes the chimney, but there are openings on the sides for giving.

Smoke may appear for the following reasons:

• the leaky walls of the oven;
• small dimensions of the gas collector;
• The wrong section of the main chimney.

You must light the fire in the fireplace when it is connected to the stove and the gas output is concentrated into a single chimney.

If the chimneys of two stoves are connected at the same level to a single pipe. A cut must be made, or one of the stoves must be attached to the riser at a different level—either above or below—through the inclined chimney.

It is necessary to deal with small soot directly in the chimney using dry beams or furnaces designed specifically for furnaces. These days, you can buy chimney cleaning supplies in specialty stores. They work well in the traditional combustion process of dry fat soot and burning, are simple to use, and come with instructions.

Greetings, readers We looked over the most typical reasons for stove smoke with you and discussed the key fixes for this issue. I hope you find this information to be helpful.

So, what was your opinion of the article? If so, don’t forget to subscribe to the blog updates and share it on social media. Goodbye!

Sincerely, Maxim Aleinikov, the blog’s author.

Why is the reverse traction arise

The most frequent are the reasons and variables that lead to the craving coming back. They can then be separated into two categories: simple (transient, readily removed) and complex (requiring radical intervention).

Complicated causes

• Most often, this is what:
• structural defects of the chimney system (the presence of horizontal or too narrow areas in the chimney, the wrong calculation of the cross -section of the pipe, the height of the pipe below the level of the horse’s skate) – it is necessary to eliminate engineering disabilities;

• – We will have to do cleaning;
• Near the residential building too tall trees grow or high -rise buildings are located – it is necessary to solve the issue of redrawing the entire chimney system;
• Errors in the installation of ventilation indoors (supply air are not enough) – accordingly, the diagnosis of ventilation, dismantling and reinstalling will be required.

Straightforward explanationsSometimes the thrust will "overturn" for a few days, but prior to that, everything was operating as it should.

The reason for the appearance of the reverse traction is

• cool weather has been established;
• The firebox or stove idle for a long time in non -working state.

What physical phenomenon can this explain? Extremely basic:

• A fair amount of heavy cold air has accumulated in the chimney;
• The cooled air mass will be the very obstacle, which the air does not like to overcome (see. The beginning of the article – the correct traction is always directed to where there are no obstacles).

• to endure the smoke in the room and continue the heating of the pipes – soon the cold "pillow" will be able to break through, and the craving will be restored. Burn 3-4 paper sheets without firewood-there will be no large smoke, and the pipe will warm up;
• use in such situations a device called a traction stabilizer. With it, the secondary air supply will speed up the movement of air in the chimney.

There is a protective valve on the stabilizer that prevents an excessive pressure increase.

Why is the stove 5 possible reasons

There is always a decline or lack of traction when there is smoke in the space. There are various reasons why flue gases move improperly.

The primary force responsible for the smoke gases rising through the smoke pipe is carry. The physical mechanism relies on the differential in pressure between the chimney’s upper and lower sections.

The fuel burns completely and releases the most heat when there is good thrust. Sadly, the stove emits smoke. When there is insufficient oxygen for combustion, volatile combustion products, such as smoke, are created and rush into the room’s low-pressure, high-release area.

Reason No. 1 The wrong chimney height

• The height of the chimney is 500 mm above the highest point of the roof when the skate is removed up to 150 cm.
• The height of the chimney = the height of the skate, if the distance between them is 150-300 cm.
• Not lower than 10º relative to the horizon of the skate, when moving away from it further 300 cm.
• The minimum duration of the channel for the removal of smoke is 5 meters, if counted from the furnace.
• If the chimney above the skate level is more than 120 cm, then it is strengthened with stretch marks.

Note: Due to the chimney’s close proximity to the ventilation system, either it is built above the ventilation system or it is made the same height (SNiPs) (European experience). If not, combustion products will find their way inside the home.

Reason No. 2. Poor ventilation

When installing a stove in a space with hermetically sealed plastic windows, and b

For ventilations, the subsequent events take place:

• The heating device draws air for combustion from the room;
• Over time, a lack of oxygen is formed, a vacuum arises;
• Streams of air burst through the chimney;
• The stove is fading, the room smokes.

A lot of home owners only install extractor fans in the kitchen and bathroom—two functional spaces that are used frequently. In other locations, such as a boiler room, washing machine, and bath steamer, where the movement of air masses is necessary, a separate channel is fitted.

Reason No. 3. The absence of a distribution box

An uncommon situation where two heating units are placed in a home sharing a smoke extraction channel without the need for a separate partition. One of the furnaces will start to smoke when the smoke flows in the same direction. A distribution box is positioned beneath the pipe to prevent air masses from colliding and swirling. You can avoid drowning the stove by using the partition.

Reason No. 4. Constructive shortcomings

The smoke enters the room because of the stove’s master’s mistake, which causes a violation or weakening of traction. Three blankets are discovered more frequently than others:

• Incorrect section of the chimney: the diameter of the minimum lumen of the pipe for the bath is 100 mm, for the house – 150 mm;
• the low location of the input in the well relative to the edge of the door – the smoke penetrates into the room, you just have to open the stove;
• the use of elements of different cross -sectional and shape when assembling the chimney – air turbines occur in the joints of the joints.

The gaps can close themselves if the master moves the stove to correct the first three mistakes.

Reason No. 5. The influence of the wind

Chimneys are placed on the windward side of a building if the predominant winds are known at the time of construction. If not, the skate’s air turbulence is directed downward, which causes smoke to enter the chimney’s lumen. Steer clear of this; you can see the SNiP of furnace pipe installation. An anti-tank deflector is used to offset wind gusts without causing a perestroika of the chimney channel.

Incorrect laying of a stove or well

A chimney with enough lumen is essential for effective smoke removal. The minimum diameter of the pipe should be 15 cm (or 10 cm in the case of a bath furnace).

Using a moist rag, the stove-shaped object rubs the inside of every well and pipe during the masonry process. Turns are smoothed out and all sharp internal corners are parted, if at all possible. This creates a smooth inner surface that allows smoke to ascend with ease. As the stove is being laid, this is done. However, the chimneys cannot be installed from the inside.

Another barrier in the way of the smoke is any bend or extra well. As a result, the design of a given stove should properly account for the pipe’s length and location on the roof.

Additionally, it’s critical that the upper edge of the door and the entrance to the first well (inside the furnace) are not lower. If not, there’s a possibility that smoke will enter the room with each fuel chamber opening.

The stovenik’s shortcomings are costly. The only way to make any design changes is to move a portion of the furnace and possibly restructure the entire thing.

If there are minor errors in judgment and there is insufficient thrust, a high straight pipe with a smooth inner surface may be of assistance:

• With close location to the skate, the pipe should be at least 50 cm above it.
• With a location of 1.5 – 3 m from the ridge, the height of the pipe is allowed to be on the skate and above.
• Not much below the ridge, the pipe can only be if it is located further 3 m from it.
• Chimney height of 5 m or more, capable of providing full traction.
• In no case, the chimney should not be assembled from elements of different sections!

Making a pipe with a rounded section is advised. Unnecessary twists are made and soot is more likely to form in the corners of rectangular smoke removals.

More often than not, asbestos and brick deterioration causes metal pipes to "suffer." This occurs as a result of how quickly the metal heats up, cools down, and becomes frosty. With non-combustible material, the situation is saved.

Solving the background problem

You must now examine the traction. An emometer is a specialized tool that can be used to measure the air flow speed. If there isn’t usually a device like that, you can still determine the direction of air movement by using traditional methods like carrying a burning match or piece of paper. Additionally, the color of the furnace flame can be used to assess the quality of traction:

• white or very light color – a sign of insufficient traction;
• if the flame of even golden color is normal;
• Dark shades of orange color – insufficient.

The furnace’s golden flame is a typical traction indicator.

The craving will be better if the stove is inside the house as opposed to outside the wall.

The primary methods for resolving traction issues are:

1. Improving the quality of the chimney.First of all, to improve the chimney crash. To do this, you need to check the entire channel for the sticking of soot and the leaky joints of the joints. Everything needs to be cleaned and fixed. If this did not help, we proceed to the next method.
2. Installation of a deflector at the end of the pipe.The method is good when the air flows around the pipe constant and strong. The deflector perfectly increases the thrust, however, without wind the deflector is useless. In some cases, it can even reduce traction due to the creation of additional resistance to air movement from the channel.
3. An increase in the length of the chimney.Simple and quick solution. The main thing is the correct calculation of the location of the channel relative to the skate of the building, as well as an analysis of the probability of air flows at the installation site. After all, even a chimney 10 meters long, installed in a wrong place will not solve the problem.
4. Installation of traction regulator.The device compensates for the lack of internal pressure in the channel relative to external. The regulator allows maintaining the optimum temperature in the furnace due to control over air supply to the furnace. With it, the air flow rate is constant, which means that the thrust is stable and does not depend on external factors (wind, pressure changes, etc.D.).

Chimney deflectors come in various types, and because metallic chimneys heat and cool quickly, cold air frequently falls onto the stove. Brick and mortar channels don’t have this issue, making them more dependable.

Reverse traction is another crucial idea. It happens when there is excessive resistance in the chimneys (caused by the building’s skate being close to the tall houses and t.D.).

In this instance, the air from the fire travels to the room by taking the path of least resistance, which means that the traction we require completely vanishes. The phrase "tipping rod" still applies; moving air only shifts direction momentarily. The first indications of a rapid traction overturning incident are puffs of smoke that form while burning and shoot into the room when the stove is opened. This indicates that the craving has gotten stronger and may even turn into the opposite.

The same techniques used to increase thrust can also be used to remove reverse traction. Reverse traction is actually the worst and most unpleasant kind of poor traction; the smoke in the room is disagreeable and even hazardous. Consequently, it makes sense to consult experts in a critical situation. They’ll swiftly examine every aspect and solve the issue.

Enough traction in the chimney is necessary for furnace heating to be both safe and effective. If the first, even minor, issues are found, a thorough system check must be performed in order to determine the root causes of the issues and look for solutions to improve traction. The majority of the repair and restoration work can be completed by hand, but you should call in an expert if you lack confidence in your skills.

A video about the subject:

In understanding why a stove smokes, it"s crucial to grasp the interplay of several factors. Firstly, improper airflow within the stove or chimney can lead to incomplete combustion of fuel, resulting in smoke production. Secondly, using damp or unseasoned wood can contribute to smoky fires due to the release of excess moisture. Furthermore, a dirty or blocked chimney restricts the flow of smoke, causing it to back up into the house. Additionally, incorrect stove installation or sizing relative to the space being heated can exacerbate smoking issues. Lastly, external factors like wind direction and atmospheric pressure can also influence smoke behavior. By addressing these factors through proper stove maintenance, fuel selection, and chimney upkeep, one can mitigate smoking and ensure efficient, clean burning for a warmer, healthier home.

Reason 5 Incorrect masonry of the well

Sometimes the furnace does not smoke at all, or only very little, when the door is closed. However, as soon as you open the door, the oven starts to heavily smoke. And it keeps happening like this. You must now comprehend why the stove smokes when the door is open. In this instance, the furnace’s subpar laying is the cause. The figure depicts the egregious error that the master made:

The stove diagram, where the lowered entrance to the first well is the cause of the incorrect traction

It is simpler for the flood to exit through the door in the design shown in the figure because the upper edge of the door hole is notably higher than the upper edge of the well entrance. Additionally, there is a serious issue with open smoking if the issue does not arise with the top-up opening.

Shifting the well’s entrance eliminates the stated cause. The upper edge needs to be positioned a few centimeters higher than the upper edge of the door opening.

In certain cases, it is not feasible to transfer into the well. As a result, you have an alternative. You must construct a wall inside the furnace, the upper edge of which will be elevated by the same few centimeters above the top of the furnace door. Good traction will result from this, and the smoke stream will surge into the well. In the figure, this solution is displayed:

Building a second wall inside the furnace to increase thrust and reduce smoke

The main causes of poor traction in the chimney

The majority of the time, traction issues are the result of incorrect calculations made during the chimney design process, which is frequently done by individuals lacking the necessary training or experience. In addition, a number of atmospheric factors, including flooding of the chimney and strong air flows within it, cause traction to be violated.

The first reason is that the chimney’s design was flawed. A too-low pipe may cause poor craving in a chimney; an overly-high pipe, on the other hand, may cause an excessively strong thrust. The ideal height is thought to be just over five meters, at which point there shouldn’t be any traction issues.

Another factor that matters a lot is the area of the chimney pipe section, which should match the size of the furnace. Therefore, a powerful stove combined with a narrow pipe will cause a lot of smoke to become trapped and start to seep into the room.

The heat generated by the burning of fuel in an excessively large chimney will literally fly into the pipe. Installing pipes of different diameters in different areas is strictly discouraged, as this will inevitably result in traction issues as well as an excessively rapid formation of soot plaque. The accumulation of soot will ultimately cause the pipe’s diameter to decrease, making the furnace-lighting procedure more difficult each time.

Impacts the chimney’s hole shape and thrust strength; a round traction will work much better than a square or rectangular one. A general decrease in traction will be seen as a result of the extra turbulence that forms in the corners, which obstructs the overall air flow.

Regarding the materials, people with brick chimneys will likely be the least concerned about traction issues; however, traction issues are common in metal chimneys.

The metal actually heats up very quickly, but it also cools down just as quickly, which causes cold air to descend.

Vulnerability to ventilation is the second reason.Reverse traction in the chimney can result from two things: either there is no ventilation at all in the furnace, or there are strong drafts that confuse the smoke and cause it to move in the wrong direction and enter the room.

If the gas column is being used for heating, the ventilation problem needs special attention. During the process, it will burn the air in the room, which will seriously reduce the amount of oxygen in the air and make it very thin.

As a result, there will occasionally be an air flow through the chimney, which will inevitably cause the room’s smoke and column to weaken. The condition may make sealed plastic windows that block out street air even more problematic. You should absolutely take care of the device for adequate ventilation in such a situation.

An outside factor is the third justification. If you are unable to ascertain the cause of the reverse traction in the chimney, consider the possibility that it was caused by a variety of atmospheric phenomena. For instance, there may be issues with traction due to high humidity or strong winds. When the street is significantly warmer than the interior of the house, a similar situation is seen (in particular, this often happens in spring). Simply open the window in this situation and allow ample ventilation to help the room’s temperature to stabilize.

It’s important to consider the chimney’s location when attempting to determine the cause of the lack of traction in the chimney. The best location for it would be inside the structure, where it will have less of an impact from outside sources. When there is a frost, the house will warm up more quickly and the craving will be much worse if the chimney is constructed from the outside. Furthermore, condensation will frequently form in it.

How the chimney is cleaned

Depending on where the stove with the clogged chimney is located, this work may be done in the garage or inside the home.

You can also do this work yourself, but you must take care to prevent soot from getting on any nearby components for the bourgeoisie.

Several techniques can be used to make cleaning:

• mechanical, involving the use of various tools;
• chemical, for which it is necessary to use various chemical compositions;
• pressure, which consists in the use of special equipment that creates hard and strong pressure of water, with which all growths are knocked down or extraneous elements are thrown out in the pipe.

When performing this task consistently, a mechanical approach is typically employed, involving the use of ruff, cable, and specific weights. The first step is to release the chimney on the cable. This will allow you to quickly identify the precise location of any obstacles. It is necessary to reset the weight because it can be used to eliminate unnecessary topics. The cleaning of the pipes then starts with a ruff, which can be square or round. However, the brush’s diameter should be slightly larger than the chimney’s diameter.

Why there is no traction in the chimney

The chimney is clogged with soot

This could be the most frequent and significant cause of the traction degradation.

Soot is produced during the burning of firewood. It is a combustion product particle that adheres to the chimney’s interior walls and causes the diameter of the chimney to narrow. Air movement is thus challenging.

Thus, it is necessary to routinely remove the soot. As a result, you will not only increase the heating device’s traction but also its efficiency and fire safety. in order to use the chimney’s walls, which are less likely to be contaminated by soot and have lower levels of moisture and other dangerous elements.

Insufficient air flow

It is essential that air move "from the bottom-up" when burning firewood. In other words, from the room to the street and the chimney. This can be accomplished by providing traction, or an air flow, in the space where the heating device is mounted.

The smoke starts to move from the chimney into the room if all of the windows are closed and the ventilation system isn’t working properly. In other words, reverse traction occurs.

Getting the room’s airflow under control is the simplest solution to this issue. For instance, open the window prior to starting a fire and shut it ten to fifteen minutes after the fire starts.

Cold street air pressure

A drop in street temperature may exacerbate the chimney traction. The cold air "presses" into the pipe because it is heavier than the warm air. This issue is particularly common when the other two are present: there is no airflow and the chimney is clogged. She amplifies their impact.

Thus, the three steps to solving the problem are to insulate the chimney, remove soot, and create an airflow.

The presence of a visor on a chimney

Chimneys frequently have visors installed on them, which can stop smoke from leaving the pipe. Consequently, smoke creates an air "cork," making cravings worse.

In these situations, a higher-quality visor should be installed or removed.

Incorrect chimney design

The irregular shape of the chimney, such as a narrow diameter, an excessive height, a lot of bends, or narrowing, can cause reverse traction.

You will need to rebuild the chimney in order to get rid of these kinds of issues, which will take a lot of time, money, and effort.

The collapse of brick

Brick chimneys are prone to destruction because of the continuous heating and cooing process. There will be brick collapses and chimney blockages.

The chimney has to be insulated in order to prevent this kind of thing. It will also address the issue of cold air pressure.

The occurrence of reverse traction in the furnace

Reverse traction in the chimney can occur when the furnace is not used for a few days. This indicates that air is entering the room rather than exiting it. When trapping, this phenomenon frequently results in the stove smoking.

Please be aware that this phenomenon is not related to weather; the reverse traction occurs during both the warm and cold seasons.

It is important to remember that driving is feasible even in furnaces with perfect designs gathered by knowledgeable stovers.

Hence, raising the temperature inside the chimney is the solution to the problem of what to do if smoke from the stove enters the house. These adjustments can also be carried out on their own.

The following methods can be used to heat the chimney:

1. Processing the inner surface of the chimney using an mounting hairdryer through an open door to remove soot.
2. Obtaining access to the chimney by dismantling or opening the Borov in the attic and its further heating with a construction hairdryer or other devices.
3. The cap is removed from the top of the chimney and thrown on fire on fire on the chimney.

What preventive measures can apply

It is possible to identify a few suggestions that will lessen the possibility that smoke will enter the building from the bourgeois:

• It is necessary to periodically clean the walls of the chimney from plaque and soot;
• It is regularly necessary to clean the space under the oven from the emerging layer of ash and soot, as well as the ash box, since the negligent attitude to this issue can lead to the emergence of significant growths;
• The chimneys should be regularly checked for the presence of pollution, and they should be promptly eliminated, and often it is quite difficult to do this due to the specific arrangement of the elements, and here it will be suitable for The mechanical method of purification with a flexible cord;
• if smoke comes from the stove only During windy weather on the street, then we can safely say that on the chimney there is no special Wind -protective cap. Its acquisition and installation can solve the problem that has arisen;
• The wind can also cause smoke if the stove was created by non -professionals, as a result of which in its design There are errors and flaws, Cracks and other problems, because of which traction during a strong wind Not coping with pressure, Therefore, smoke does not go outside, but enters the room itself where the stove is located;
• Having blew the stove should constantly be cleaned of waste and ash, since otherwise it can become the cause of the appearance of smoke;
• The stove door should Very tightly to fit the stove itself, And this will avoid the appearance of the smog, and often it is impossible to achieve a dense adjoining. In this case, you need to either replace the door, or make a flat surface of the bourgeois;
• you should not use poor -quality fuel or completely replace firewood or sawdust.

Therefore, there are numerous ways to respond to the question of why the bourgeois furnace is the source of a lot of the smoke in the room.

There are many possible causes for this kind of issue, so it’s critical to do an initial thorough inspection of the apparatus, clean specific components, and fix any damaged parts. Usually, all of these actions result in something good.

Maintaining a cozy and effective home heating system requires knowing why a stove smokes. Inadequate ventilation is one of the main causes of smoke. Smoke cannot escape from the stove when there is inadequate ventilation, which causes a buildup of smoke inside the home. Poor stove design, blocked chimneys, and closed dampers can all cause this.

The inefficient burning of fuel is another reason smoking stoves exist. Wet or unseasoned wood contains more moisture than dry wood, which can lead to inefficient burning and more smoke being produced. Similar to this, overcrowding the stove with wood or using unsuitable materials, such as cardboard or paper, can cause the wood to smolder and not fully burn, producing smoke.

Additionally, the efficiency of the stove is greatly influenced by the state of the chimney. The flow of smoke is impeded by an unclean or blocked chimney, which leads to smoke backing up into the house. Burning wood produces creosote buildup, which is a common cause of chimney blockage and needs to be cleaned on a regular basis to avoid smoke problems.

Furthermore, outside variables like air pressure and wind direction can affect how well a stove works. Airflow can be obstructed and smoke can be forced back into the house by wind blowing down the chimney. The efficiency with which smoke is expelled from the stove can also be impacted by variations in atmospheric pressure, which can influence draft strength.

In summary, resolving the causes of stove smoking is essential to keeping your home’s heating system effective, cozy, and safe. You can reduce or eliminate smoke problems and enable your stove to run effectively and efficiently by making sure that there is adequate airflow, using dry and appropriate fuel, keeping your chimney clean, and taking into account outside factors.

Video on the topic

Why the stove smoke

Why the stove smoke? The main reason.

The stove smokes.Solved the problem with the stove! Why the stove smoke?

Why does the stove smoke when the door is opened

Why the stove smoke? Causes and options for eliminating smoke