Why the gas heater goes out during operation

Nothing is more annoying than having your gas heater unexpectedly break, particularly in the winter when you most need it. If you’ve ever encountered this, you are aware of the inconvenience it causes and how urgently it needs to be fixed. However, why does it occur? Why does your gas heater decide to turn off in the middle of using it?

First and foremost, it’s critical to comprehend the fundamental workings of a gas heater. To generate heat, these appliances burn gas, usually propane or natural gas. Your house is warmed by the heat produced, which is cozy and warm. Nevertheless, a number of things may interfere with this procedure and cause the heater to abruptly turn off.

Inadequate airflow is a frequent cause of a gas heater turning off while it’s operating. For gas heaters to operate properly, there must be enough ventilation. Insufficient airflow can cause the heater to overheat, which would activate a safety feature that would shut it off to avoid damage or a possible fire hazard.

Your heater may also abruptly shut off due to problems with the gas supply. The heater may shut down if there is an issue with the gas line, such as a leak or blockage, which would prevent gas from getting to it. In order to guarantee that your heater runs continuously, it is essential that you periodically check your gas line for leaks or signs of damage.

Moreover, issues with the ignition system may also be to blame for a gas heater that shuts off while in use. The heater may have trouble starting or staying lit if the ignition system is broken or not working properly, which could lead to frequent shutdowns. This may be the result of malfunctioning thermocouples, unclean or damaged igniters, or issues with the gas valve.

In conclusion, there are a number of possible causes for your gas heater to malfunction while it’s operating, from ignition system issues to problems with airflow and gas supply. By being aware of these typical problems, you can effectively troubleshoot and resolve the issue, ensuring that your heater runs smoothly and keeps you toasty and comfortable throughout the cold months.

Causes of extinguishing after ignition

Finding the source of the issue is essential if the gas heater malfunctions or goes out. To achieve this goal, it is essential to identify the triggers for the occurrence of fixture malfunctions. The following common reasons the device doesn’t turn on:

  • an indicator that detects a gas leak is turned on;
  • difficulties with the chimney;
  • Valve breakage;
  • clogging of the wick;
  • the main burner fading out;
  • excessive ventilation;
  • of thermocouple opening;
  • Automatic system breakdowns.

Crucial! Should the heater emit smoke, shut off, or fail to light at all, you may attempt to troubleshoot the issue on your own. However, it is best to call a specialist in such a situation.

Flame ionization sensor failure

Seventy percent of the time, the "fault" in the device is the ionization indicator when it turns on and starts to go out. The part frequently comes into contact with fire. Combustion produces ions, which are drawn to the sensor and cause a current to flow. The gadget will function when there are sufficient ions. The column is turned off when there are insufficient of them.

  • The wick goes out after a few seconds after ignition;
  • the speaker functions longer during restart;
  • the appliance should be switched on several times and it will function normally;
  • Difficulties occur only after a long break.

Crucial! One should examine the wiring that connects the component to the board. To do this, the contacts are examined. The heating electrode is then positioned in the center of the fire after the fixing screws have been removed.

By using this method, the indicator’s lifespan is prolonged by years. The element needs to be replaced once all connections and contacts are operating normally.

Wear and tear of the membrane of the water unit

The serviceability of each component and mechanism will determine how well the device works. One of the most crucial parts of such a heater is the membrane, but with time, wear and tear occurs.

At the base of the assembly, a flexible membrane that responds to variations in system pressure will be found. The pressurized rubber element in the faucet will bend and push out the stem when it opens. By doing so, the gas valve will open, allowing fuel to enter the burner.

Crucial! Overuse of the device will cause the diaphragm to deteriorate. Rubber will rip, become clogged, and sustain damage. Fuel will not be able to flow into the burner as a result, and the device will not start or light up before quickly fading out.

  • Gas and water pressure forces. The tap is opened, it is necessary to calculate how many liters will be consumed per minute. 2-3 liters will be within the normal range. The gas supply can be recognized visually by looking at the fire.
  • Fire position. In devices with wick ignition, the flame burns from the edge, has a height of at least 30-50 mm. If not, the jets are checked for clogging. After cleaning is completed, it is necessary to look at the fire again. When the situation has not changed, the difficulty is in the diaphragm.

  • Ignition booths should click when the button is pressed. This means that the diaphragm is working. When there are no sounds, the part is probably broken.
  • In a number of models to establish a breakdown helps the stem that controls the functioning of the control unit. The protective cover is removed and the water is opened. When the stem is immobilized, the diaphragm must be replaced.

Selecting the appropriate replacement part is necessary once the breakage has been located.

The wick is clogged with dust

The igniter element in products is frequently clogged. There will be a yellowish tint and the fire will weaken. But a shift in the fire’s color can also signal that there isn’t enough air in the gas-air mixture.

As a result, the column will either light the burner completely or will do so when a significant amount of fuel is supplied. In the latter case, there’s a distinct click. You’ll need an adjustable wrench and two screwdrivers to clean the element.

  • The housing is removed – pull out the adjustment knobs, unscrew the bolts in the corners at the bottom, lift and remove the cover.
  • The draught sensor tube and the one that pulls up the fuel are unscrewed.
  • Unscrew the screws, disassemble the structure.
  • The nozzle is cleaned, the tee is blown out and reassembled.

The draft indicator clogs, which results in smoke coming from the igniter. The igniter illuminates with a steady blue light after the dirt and dust have been removed.

Crucial! The device makes some noise when the column is being cleaned. Air drawn through the wick guide casing’s slots will produce the sound. By using screws to tighten the wick a little, the noise can be eliminated.

Cause of extinguishing when the ignition button is released

Examine its device to understand why the column may extinguish when the ignition button is released. The power supply elements may discharge, putting out the burner flame. If the device uses batteries or a generator for automatic ignition, the user must replace the batteries after making sure the "Start/Stop" button is activated.

The gas heater may also not function correctly if the batteries are dead. Piezo ignition products typically have this issue. At least ten seconds are spent with the key depressed.

Column switches off during operation

After turning on and running for a while, the device shuts off. Why might the column fail while it’s operating?

  • Settings are checked. It is likely that automatic shutdown after a certain period has been selected.
  • Increase in temperature indicators – more than 100 degrees. In this case, the temperature sensor will be triggered and operation will stop.
  • Insufficient pressure in the gas or water line.
  • Contact between thermocouple and solenoid valve is broken. Contacts are cleaned, connections are tightened.
  • Control unit contacts oxidized. The device starts to click, but the wick does not ignite. Contacts need to be cleaned.
  • The batteries are discharged. Replace every 6 months. It is optimal to purchase batteries with a high charge content.

Clogged shower head and hose

When switching to the shower, it occasionally happens that the heater turns on and then fades out. The reason for this is a clogged watering can. It must be unscrewed in order to clean and empty the holes. Soaking the metal components in a citric acid solution works well.

In certain areas, the water’s increased hardness leads to the formation of scale on the showerhead. In order to achieve this, filters are installed or an integrated descaling shower mixer is purchased.

The shower hose is the next component that can occasionally cause the wick to fade. The device shuts off and the pressure decreases when it gets tangled or clogged.

The faucet can clog or break occasionally. It must be disassembled, inspected, and cleaned as needed.

Soot build-up on the heat exchanger

While in use, the heat exchanger gathers scale and soot. The fire will become blue in color if it is clogged. Cleaning formula:

  • Remove the cover.
  • The screws are unscrewed.
  • The water supply is cut off.
  • Open the faucet to drain the hot water.
  • The threads and the faucet are disconnected.
  • A solution of hydrochloric acid is prepared.
  • Take a 1/2″ inch pipe or use a hose.
  • One end is connected to the inlet, the other to the outlet.
  • A solution is poured into the funnel.
  • When there is pressure at the outlet, the procedure is stopped.

Wearing gloves is a must when working. The heat exchanger needs to be thoroughly cleaned of acid after the scale has been removed. It is advised that cleaning be done once a year. Maintenance keeps the device operating at peak performance.

Traction is poor or completely absent

A clogged chimney from dirt and limescale is a common cause of accumulation of combustion products. The waste won’t be released outside if there is either no draught or insufficient draught.

You must bring a lit match or a lighter to the device’s control window in order to check for drafts. There is a draught if the fire is deflected sideways. remains lit throughout—it is absent.

It should be remembered that outside factors, like gusts of wind, can cause a fire to go out on occasion. When draughts are present, the shaft’s draught either grows or shrinks.

The "pocket," which is 0.25 m below the chimney, is also used for cleaning. When taking such measures proves ineffective, consulting experts is imperative.

Issue Possible Reasons
1. Gas Supply Check if the gas supply is uninterrupted and the valve is fully open.
2. Pilot Light The pilot light might be extinguished due to drafts or a faulty thermocouple.
3. Ventilation Inadequate ventilation can cause the heater to shut off for safety reasons.
4. Dirty Components Dirt or debris buildup in the burner or pilot assembly can disrupt the flame.
5. Thermostat Issues A malfunctioning thermostat could mistakenly signal the heater to turn off.

It can be annoying when your gas heater suddenly breaks down, especially in the winter when you depend on it for warmth. Gaining insight into the causes of this prevalent problem will assist you in diagnosing and averting additional disturbances to your heating system.

A pilot light issue is one reason why your gas heater might be turning off. The heater works by lighting the gas burner with a tiny flame known as the pilot light. As a precaution, the heater will turn off on its own if the pilot light goes out for any reason—a draft, a dirty or malfunctioning part, or just not lit properly.

A broken thermocouple could be another cause of your gas heater shutting off without warning. A safety mechanism that determines whether the pilot light is on is the thermocouple. It cuts the gas supply if it detects that the pilot light is not burning in order to avoid a potentially hazardous gas buildup. The heater may turn off even though the pilot light is still burning due to a malfunctioning thermocouple that mistakenly signals that the light is out.

Moreover, problems with the pressure or gas supply may also cause your heater to turn off while it’s running. The heater may not get enough fuel to run if there is a disruption in the gas supply, such as a leak or an issue with the gas line, causing it to shut down. Similar to this, variations in gas pressure can have an impact on your heater’s operation and cause it to occasionally shut off.

Unexpected shutdowns can be avoided by giving your gas heater routine maintenance and inspections. It is possible to address possible problems before they become more serious by cleaning the pilot light, making sure the heater has enough ventilation, and looking for any signs of wear or damage. Furthermore, having professional servicing performed at least once a year can assist in locating and fixing any underlying issues that might be the source of your heater’s failure.

In conclusion, managing a gas heater that frequently shuts off can be annoying, but by being aware of the typical causes and taking preventative action, you can help guarantee dependable heating for your house. Even in the coldest months, you can reduce the chance of disruptions and have a warm and inviting interior space by being watchful and making routine maintenance investments.

We explore common causes of this annoying problem in our article "Why Does the Gas Heater Keep Shutting Off?" Knowing the reasons behind frequent disruptions or unexpected shutdowns will aid in your troubleshooting process. We break down each possible culprit in layman’s words, from problems with the pilot light and thermocouple to issues with the gas supply or ventilation. Understanding these typical problems will help you address them head-on and make sure your house is warm and comfortable when you need it most.

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Sergey Ivanov

I like to help people create comfort and comfort in their homes. I share my experience and knowledge in articles so that you can make the right choice of a heating and insulation system for your home.

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