During cold weather, it can cause disruptions to your plans if your gas boiler decides to give up due to strong winds. You find yourself suddenly without heating or hot water, which is not only annoying but could be dangerous on chilly nights. Don’t worry, though; there are steps you can take to diagnose the problem and restart your heating system.
First and foremost, try not to panic. Gas boilers frequently encounter problems in windy environments. Something as basic as a wind gust disturbing the flame could be the cause of your boiler blowing out. Even though it’s annoying, the issue is frequently solvable and doesn’t require immediate assistance from a professional.
First, make sure the pilot light on the boiler is on. If it’s gone, it’s probably been blown out by the wind. Relighting it according to the manufacturer’s instructions is an option. But never try to relight the pilot light if you smell gas or see any other indications of a gas leak. Instead, shut off the boiler’s gas supply and get in touch with a trained technician right away.
Next, examine the chimney or flue of the boiler. Strong winds can occasionally create a downdraft, which forces air back into the flue and obstructs the combustion process. If you think this might be the case, look for any debris or obstructions, like leaves or bird nests, obstructing the flue. Restoring adequate ventilation and averting more blowouts can be achieved by removing these impediments.
Relighting the pilot light and making sure the flue is clear won’t stop your boiler from blowing out, so you might want to think about taking further precautions to shield it from windy conditions. To lessen the chance of more disruptions, installing a wind guard or chimney cap can help protect the boiler from powerful gusts. Speaking with a heating specialist can help you determine which options are best for your particular setup.
In conclusion, even though a gas boiler blowing out in a severe wind can be annoying, with the correct troubleshooting techniques, it’s usually a manageable problem. You can guarantee that your heating system continues to function even in inclement weather by maintaining composure, checking the pilot light and flue, and taking precautionary steps.
Problem: | Gas boiler blows out in strong wind |
Solution: | 1. Check for any visible damage or obstructions around the boiler vent. 2. Shield the boiler from direct wind using a barrier or enclosure. 3. Install a wind-resistant chimney cap to prevent gusts from affecting the boiler. 4. Ensure proper installation and secure anchoring of the boiler. 5. Contact a professional technician for inspection and potential adjustments. |
- Make sure that the burner goes out because of the wind
- What to do if the gas boiler with a traditional vertical chimney blows out?
- Extending the height of the outer part of the chimney
- Installation of the deflector
- Truncated cone for "draught breaking"
- Errors in the design of the chimney
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Make sure that the burner goes out because of the wind
Determining the precise causes of burner fading is important to avoid wasting effort in vain, which is something that occasionally occurs in practice. These causes include low gas pressure, automation errors, and problems removing combustion products. Typical indications that the wind is blowing are:
- visual changes in the shape and direction of the flame caused by the wind;
- a characteristic swirling sound in the combustion chamber;
- The burner does not turn off without reason in windless weather, this point to check necessarily!
Incorrect flame height or low gas pressure in the mains are two common causes of fading. The flame weakens and eventually approaches the burner at low gas pressure. The automatics turn off the burner and extinguish the boiler to keep it from burning out. Flame heights typically range from two to four centimeters. It is necessary to adjust the burner flame height if it is lower, but we do not advise doing it yourself; instead, call a gas service for this purpose.
Additionally, the entire chimney structure and connection tightness must be inspected. Initially, be mindful of any inspection holes in the chimney; they need to be sealed and closed hermetically. If this isn’t feasible, it makes sense to invest in a contemporary sealed plug.
When your gas boiler goes out on a windy day, it can be frustrating and worrying. But don"t panic! There are steps you can take to troubleshoot the issue and get your heating system back up and running. Firstly, check if the pilot light has been extinguished by the wind. If so, follow the manufacturer"s instructions to relight it safely. Ensure there are no obstructions around the boiler"s flue or air intake, as strong gusts can disrupt airflow. Additionally, consider installing a wind guard or shelter around the boiler to protect it from the elements. Regular maintenance and servicing can also help prevent future outages. If you"re unsure or uncomfortable with any steps, always consult a qualified heating engineer for assistance. With a bit of care and attention, you can keep your home cozy even on blustery days.
What to do if the gas boiler with a traditional vertical chimney blows out?
Inadequate construction of the chimney or roof, a deficiency of trees, or the existence of structures close to the chimney that generate powerful vortices can all contribute to blowing through the chimney. One of the following approaches, or frequently several of them, can be used to solve the issue.
Extending the height of the outer part of the chimney
Lifting the chimney is one of the easiest and best (though it needs a sensible strategy) ways to do this. This is accomplished by installing one or more pipes, each with a minimum diameter of 0.5, on the original chimney.
A private home’s chimney height is determined by the roof structure, boiler capacity, and cross-section of the building. Generally speaking, the ideal height is thought to be between five and six meters, measured from the boiler’s grate. The chimney requirements are all outlined in SNiP 41-01-2003. The following are the most frequent infractions of the chimney’s height requirements:
- elevation above the flat surface of the roof – at least 500 mm;
- elevation above the ridge of the roof (at a horizontal distance to it less than 1.5 m) – at least 500 mm;
- height of the chimney at a distance from the ridge of 1.5-3 m – flush with the ridge;
- height of the chimney at a distance from the ridge of more than 3 meters – not below a line drawn at an angle of 10 ° to the horizon.
The above requirements may be raised in situations where the roof ridge profile is sufficiently high and there are nearby structures and objects that aid in the creation of swirls and blowing. But when the standard values are exceeded, a significant portion of the heat will just fly up the chimney, causing increased condensation and an excessive draft.
Use of a damper or draft stabilizer is required if such a mistake was still made.
Installation of the deflector
A deflector is a unique aerodynamic-shaped nozzle that is easily installed on a chimney to increase draught and protect it from wind, precipitation, and debris. It is made of stainless or galvanized steel.
The fundamental idea behind how things work is the skillful application of wind force: air flow circles the structure and, depending on its kind, guards against airflow coming from above or below at different angles, prevents debris and precipitation from entering the pipe, and directs air masses to create more draught. A few different types of deflectors can improve the chimney’s efficiency by 10% to 20%.
Photo | Name | Design features |
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Grigorovich deflector | The most common and well-known type of construction, which is a truncated cone, widened at the bottom and another cone (mushroom) at the top. The air flow is directed towards the narrowing of the cone under the upper mushroom (inside the deflector), which causes air rarefaction above the chimney and, subsequently, increased draught. The upper mushroom also protects from precipitation and debris. The deflector is extremely ineffective in low winds. |
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CAGI | Design developed by the Central Aerohydrodynamic Institute. It is a metal pipe with a shielding cylinder and a protective cone inside. Eliminates blowing in from the sides and top, protects from debris and precipitation. But in severe frosts (below minus 15-18°C) it can contribute to the formation of ice. |
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Wolpert-Grigorovich | An effective combined version of the two previous types of construction: the same TsAGI deflector, but with a conical shaped protective hood moved upwards (above the diffuser). |
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Dynamic turbo deflector | Spherical design with blades, which rotates in the presence of wind speed of 0.5 m / s and more. Excellent protection against blowing winds, increases draft by more than 50%. But this design is an excellent option in constant winds, it is practically ineffective in the absence of wind and can even worsen the efficiency of the chimney. |
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Dynamic vane deflector | One of the best solutions is a construction of several metal canopies, completely covering the cross-section of the chimney, and a weather vane, turning the construction in the direction of the wind. The design is based on modern bearings that rotate the deflector at the slightest wind pressure. Vane deflector not only protects against directional blowing from any side or precipitation, but also by directing the airflow towards the combustion products outlet enhances the natural draught. |
However, keep in mind that an excessive draft may cause the gas boiler to operate less efficiently or result in an instance where the wick is extinguished by an excessively rapid airflow. For instance, the turbodeflector and H-shaped deflector aren’t always the best choices. As a result, it’s essential to select the right kind of construction. To do this, speak with a consultant in the store and explain your unique situation to him. The price range for chimney deflector protection is between 300 and 2000 rubles.
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Truncated cone for "draught breaking"
The method cannot be considered simple, even with its straightforward design. It entails establishing a zone inside the chimney to stop air masses from moving forward and producing a back draft. The truncated cone is the most efficient because it creates an obstacle zone for the air flow heading towards the combustion chamber (back draught), causing it to swirl instead of applying pressure to the burner flame and the combustion chamber itself.
You don’t need any specialized knowledge to do it yourself, but it’s still advisable to speak with gas service professionals because, depending on the situation, doing so could increase the production of carbon monoxide or trigger an emergency.
Errors in the design of the chimney
Though it happens infrequently, improper chimney design does occur. The specifications for its device are once more outlined in SNiP 41-01-2003. The requirements that are most frequently broken are those like:
- maximum allowable number of elbows – 3;
- The length of horizontal branches should not exceed 100 cm (this also applies to the design of the truncated cone for "draught break" described above);
- Do not allow any, even minor deflections of the structure (check for bends and damage to the outer part and especially the edges of the chimney).
Although it can be unsettling and inconvenient to encounter a gas boiler blowout in a strong wind, there are a few things you can do to take care of the situation and guarantee your home stays safe and warm.
First and foremost, safety must come first if you discover that your gas boiler has blown out as a result of high winds. Cut off the boiler’s gas supply right away to avoid any leaks or other problems. This is an essential step in preventing gas buildup and home fires.
Once everyone is safe, evaluate the circumstances to find out what caused the blowout. Extinguished flames in gas boilers can occasionally result from strong winds interfering with the combustion process. Look for any evident indications that the boiler or its ventilation system needs repair. Furthermore, think about whether there are any modifications you can make, like adding wind baffles or safety barriers, to strengthen the boiler’s resistance to windy conditions in the future.
Try to relight the gas boiler, if you are comfortable doing so, by carefully following the manufacturer’s instructions. To inspect and resolve the problem, it’s best to get in touch with a licensed technician or plumber if you’re hesitant or uneasy about relighting the boiler yourself. They can make sure the boiler is operating safely and effectively by locating any hidden issues with it or any of its parts.
To keep your house comfortable while you wait for expert assistance or attempt troubleshooting the problem on your own, think about other heating options. Until the gas boiler is operational again, temporary warmth can be obtained using portable electric heaters or fireplaces. Furthermore, keeping your house well-insulated can help it retain heat and lessen the effects of an unplanned heating outage.
In conclusion, having a gas boiler blowout during a strong wind can be unsettling, but you can effectively manage the problem and make sure your home stays safe and warm by putting safety first, evaluating the situation, getting professional assistance if necessary, and looking into alternative heating options.