What is a bypass and why install it in a heating system

Having an effective heating system is crucial for keeping your house warm and comfortable during the cold months. However, have you ever heard of a bypass and wondered why your heating system needs one? Now let’s examine what a bypass is and why you should think about getting one for your house.

In a nutshell, a bypass is a part of a heating system that makes water flow controllable. A standard heating system warms a room by moving water through pipes to radiators or other heat sources. Nonetheless, having a bypass comes in handy when some areas of the house don’t need to be heated.

Maintaining ideal pressure and flow rates is one of the main benefits of installing a bypass in your heating system. An imbalance in the system may result from certain zones or radiators being off or not requiring heat in the absence of a bypass. Uneven heating distribution, noisy pipes, and even damage to the boiler or other components can result from this imbalance.

The increased efficiency that comes with a bypass is another advantage. Boiler efficiency increases when water can pass through closed-off zones instead of making the boiler work harder to maintain pressure. This is a wise investment for homeowners trying to cut their heating expenses because it can eventually lead to energy savings and lower utility bills.

Furthermore, adding a bypass can help your heating system last longer. It helps prevent premature wear and tear on the boiler and other components, which can save you money on repairs and replacements later on.

A bypass can provide you more flexibility and control over your heating system in addition to these useful advantages. You can adjust the temperature in different parts of your house to fit your usage habits and comfort preferences by fine-tuning the water flow to different zones.

In summary, even though a bypass might appear to be a minor and frequently disregarded part of a heating system, its influence on longevity, effectiveness, and performance shouldn’t be understated. Installing a bypass will ensure that your house remains warm and comfortable while ultimately saving you money on energy bills and upkeep.

Baypas installation options

After defining what a bypass line is, let’s talk about its installation location and necessity. The element takes the form of a bypass pipeline or a direct section connecting the supplying line with the reverse, depending on the problem being solved.

Reference: The word "bypass" in English literally means "bypass."

When it comes to adding bypasses to heating systems, there are several choices:

1. On the radiators of closed and open single -pipe systems.
2. Parallel to the circulation pump working in gravity (otherwise – gravitational) heating system.
3. The jumper between the feed and the reversal, which forms the small circulation circuit to heating a solid fuel boiler.
4. In various mixing nodes.

A bypass line, which functions similarly to a radiator in apartment buildings where heated towel rails are connected to a common riser of a hot water supply, is also utilized (see paragraph 1 of the list). We’ll explain why it’s necessary there later.

Private home and apartment owners are familiar with the first two options. Regretfully, some owners who pride themselves on being big experts "improve" bypas or install jumpers in places where they obstruct the heating system’s regular operation. Intentional and random errors will also be taken into account.

Radiator jumpers of one -pipe circuit

The majority of Soviet-era multi-story buildings have single-pipe vertical risers that run through each apartment for heating. The circuit’s basic working principle is the distribution of coolant on floors 5–16 in accordance with batteries because of the duct’s high pressure and speed.

As a point of reference. The large diameters of the internal channels, whose connection to the riser was designed without any bypasses, set apart old cast-iron batteries and steel ribbed convectors. We are discussing newer devices that have less capacity and high heat transfer.

It should be noted that the bypass is cut between the radiators and the only highway that has both eyeliners. In order to prevent the water from moving into the battery and instead moving down or upward depending on the direction of the feed, the pipe jumper is specifically moved away from the riser’s axis. The plan should ideally work like this:

1. Having reached the fork of the first heating device, the stream of hot coolant is divided approximately in half – one part occurs in the radiator, the second rushes into the bypass.
2. Having cooled at 1-2 ° C, the first stream is mixed with the bypass and returns to the main highway. The temperature of the resulting mixture becomes 0.5-1 ° C below the initial.
3. The process is repeated similarly on the following heating devices. So that the heat is enough for all consumers, the pumps of centralized heat supply pump a large amount of coolant through the highways, reducing the temperature difference between the first and last battery.

Note: Two-story private homes have similar schemes. Even though the vertical riser only supplies a few radiators, it is still advisable to install the bypass on the upper heater because the industrial "fellow" has much higher performance than the household circulation pump.

The entire volume of water will leak through the heating device and cool by 1-3 °C if the straight bypass line is removed. Every subsequent apartment will receive significantly less heat as a result of the significant temperature difference. The final radiator will cause the room to get chilly, much like a dog booth.

For this reason, a simple section of pipe on the battery is crucial when using a vertical one-pipe scheme. The bypass is not necessary because hot and cooled coolant travel to separate highways via two-pipe wires.

The modest performance of the circulation pump in suburban homes is offset by larger pipeline diameters and throughput. The picture depicts a horizontal one-pipe system used for this. About two thirds of the coolant flow through the Bypas main line, with the remaining third going into the batteries.

Circulation pump

The pump unit in the majority of contemporary water heating systems crashes straight into the supply or reverse pipeline; this is covered in more detail in a different publication. In this instance, installing a bypass is not required:

• When turning off electricity and stopping the pump, the coolant still will not be able to circulate independently due to the small diameters of the pipes;
• To remove the pumping unit in order to repair or replace, it is enough to block 2 taps and unscrew two Americans, provided that the assembly is assembled correctly;
• Since the water is unable to move around the highways without forced motivation, the bypass jumper will not help maintain the operability of the system for the duration of the pump maintenance.

A gravity heating system is the only situation in which a bypass branch for a circulation pump needs to be made. First off, the unit with the DN 25–32 connection pipes cannot be cut into the Ø50 mm pipe that private homes use in their gravitational thermal network. Any gravity will be stopped by this drastic reduction in diameter.

Second, the universal scheme should govern the operation of the heat supply. When the electricity is cut off, the primary mode is driven from the pump and the coolant naturally gravitates toward its own gravity through convection. The pump unit needs to be installed on the bypass in order to plan this kind of heating work.

Two techniques are tested for installing this node:

1. A ball crane crashes into a straight line, and the heating pump is carried out on the circuit along with the mesh filter – a mud and shut -off armature.
2. A ready -made bypass node with a pumping unit and a check valve is put in the gap of the highway.

The switch to a gravity mode is done manually in the first version. One of the homes needs to go to the boiler room and open a big crane on the straight section once the electricity has stopped. If not, the building will expand, the boiler will stop heating, and you will freeze without flowing water.

In the second scenario, an automatic check valve opens in a closed position while the pump is operating after the energy is cut off. However, not everything is as perfect as it looks at first:

1. The device of some models of ball valves does not provide disassembly. If the element is polluted, rusting and will seize, you will have to throw away the entire node (except for the pump unit and filter).
2. Products in the form of a U-shaped loop depicted in the photo serve as an additional air collector. They are equipped with a manual air discharge crane, which must be periodically used. In addition, the mud is vertically, it is wrong.

Thus, the recommendation is to not install pre-made, automated bypasses that include a valve and pump. It is preferable to gather a knot with a cutting tap by hand. After disconnecting, the house will start to deteriorate considerably in 30 to 40 minutes, which is enough time to open the main highway.

The second option is to build a bypass node out of separate components by utilizing a brass check valve that has a rubber ball that is free and not compressed by a spring. Take a look at the image and the video to see what such an element looks like:

Mixing nodes

These heating system components include the bypas that joins the supply and return pipelines as well as a three-way thermostatic valve. In summary, the bypass branch aids in the assembly of coolant from two highways in the valve chamber and provides water at the necessary temperature at the output.

A 3-year crane and a jumper are used in various parts of the heating network to implement the principle of hurry.

• a small circuit circuit circulation;
• binding of buffer container or heat accumulator;
• A collector distributing the coolant along the heating contours of a water warm floor.

As a point of reference. There is a broad range of applause for compliance. In air heating units (califfers) and other climate installations, the adjustable drop in water temperature through mixing is utilized.

The bypass, which forms a small circulation circuit with a three-way crane as depicted in the circuit, shields the solid fuel boiler from condensate release during the heating stage. This is how the process algorithm appears:

1. When the firewood is ignited and the pump is turned on, the valve remains closed from the heating system. Leaving the heat generator shirt, the water turns into a bypass line and returns to the boiler.
2. As heated, the temperature of the looped coolant increases. When it reaches a threshold mark of 50-60 ° C (depending on the settings), the valve thermo -element is triggered, which gradually opens the duct from the radiators.
3. The more the water in the boiler circuit heats up, the wider the passage of the cold coolant from the system opens. Mixing occurs in the valve chamber, but the flow temperature at the output will not drop below the specified threshold until the fuel burns.

The bypass of mixing serves as a safety feature in the strapping of TT KOTLOV with a cast-iron heat exchanger. Situation: the firewood glows and the heating works throughout the coil, then all of a sudden the lights go out. The water in the batteries cools if there is no backup power source, such as a UPS or electric generator, and the energy supply comes back on after half an hour.

Keep in mind that the furnace is full of firewood and heat, so the boiler won’t have time to cool down in thirty minutes. When cold coolant is pumped into a boiler shirt and a cast-iron section bursts from temperature shock, it is worthwhile to turn on the pump. As a result, in this situation, bypas is essential.

The distribution comb of the warm floors uses a similar principle of mixing through a jumper and valve. Оогда температура в греящих контурах достигла нормы (35—45 °С), 3-ходовой кран закрывает сторону подачи от котла, а насос гоняет теплоноситель зерез байпас по внутреннему кольцу.

Note: The comb has an unloading bypass in case the automatically adjustable contours are closed tightly. Because of him, the pump "twists" water through two collectors rather than combining it internally, which lowers the unit’s resource.

The use of a connecting jumper in the strapping of a buffer container is identical to the previous options and is shown in the diagram.

Installation errors

When replacing outdated cast-iron radiators with new aluminum ones, some do-it-yourselfers purposefully make two dumb mistakes:

• Mounted on a straight bypass pipe of a ball crane in order to direct the entire coolant to their own battery;
• Having heard the advice of “smart” people, they collect a mixing knot with a three -way crane in order to regulate the heat transfer of the heating device.

Make sure right away that installing such a system in a private residence is not regarded as an error because there, you live alone as a man and are responsible for your own heating. Neighbors suffer from such acts in the "high-riseure" since you will upset the system and choose higher heat. Thus, nearby apartments receive less. Check out the video to see how this occurs:

Rather than making more listing errors, we advise you to become acquainted with the guidelines for properly installing a bypass on your own:

1. A jumper on the battery of an apartment building is a pipe without any locking reinforcement and valves. The maximum that is allowed is to reduce the diameter by 1 of the size (the riser DN 20 is the connector DN 15);
2. Want to regulate the heat transfer of radiators – please put manual or automatic thermostats. There are special full -pass models for centralized networks.
3. If an energy -dependent gravitational heating is organized in the country house, mount the pump only on bypas. It is not provided by itself – a jumper is not needed.
4. With independent assembly of mixing nodes, make sure that the circulation pump is from the open output of the valve. Other options are inoperative.
5. A three -way valve equipped with a thermogram functions from a remote temperature sensor. Put the latter on the pipe behind the valve where the mixed coolant goes. Then the element will be able to navigate its temperature.

Clause No. 3 needs clarification. The pipe that produces the mixture is the only one that is ever open in 3-year cranes. On the same side as the pump is located. One of the following two outcomes will occur if the unit is placed on any input pipe: either the coolant will bypass the unit and close the boiler circuit, preventing it from falling into the radiators, or the circulation will stop.

In understanding the ins and outs of heating systems, it"s essential to grasp the concept of a bypass and its significance. A bypass in a heating system acts as a diversion route for hot water when certain zones in the house don"t need heating. Without a bypass, when these zones close off, the water flow slows down or even stops entirely, leading to problems like noisy pipes, reduced efficiency, and potential damage to the boiler. By installing a bypass, you maintain proper water flow through the system, ensuring consistent heating performance, quieter operation, and prolonging the life of your equipment. It"s a small but crucial component that plays a big role in keeping your home warm and cozy efficiently.

Although adding a bypass to your heating system may seem technical, there are several clear and substantial advantages. A bypass is essentially a channel that reroutes a portion of the hot water away from the primary heating circuit. This easy addition can control how much hot water flows through your system, keeping your boiler running smoothly and your house warm enough.

Preventing overheating in specific areas of your heating system is a major benefit of installing a bypass, particularly when some radiators are partially closed or off. In the absence of a bypass, water pressure can build up in these places, pushing your boiler beyond its breaking point and possibly resulting in damage or inefficiency.

Furthermore, a bypass helps keep your house at a constant temperature even when not all of the radiators are in use. It makes sure that every radiator gets the right amount of heat by rerouting a portion of the hot water away from the main circuit, which avoids variations and cold spots.

The ability to extend the life of your boiler and other heating components is another benefit of installing a bypass. You can minimize wear and tear on your system and eventually have fewer breakdowns and repairs by preventing overheating and reducing strain on it. In the end, purchasing a bypass can result in long-term cost savings on replacement and maintenance.

In summary, even though a bypass might appear to be a minor addition to your heating system, it has a big impact. Your entire heating system’s performance and lifespan can be improved with a bypass by controlling water flow, avoiding overheating, and increasing efficiency. Whether you’re renovating an old system or building a new house, installing a bypass is a smart move that can improve both your comfort and your budget.