Water warm floor in a bathhouse from a bathhouse: 3 methods of installation with your own hands + photo and video instructions

Imagine entering a cozy, welcoming bathhouse on a chilly day; the woodsy aroma fills the air, and the steam carries the promise of relaxation. Imagine this experience enhanced by the presence of a warm, watery floor. Yes, exactly—luxurious warmth beneath your feet that turns your bathhouse into a comfortable retreat. The best part? We’ll look at three different ways to install a water-warm floor in your bathroom in this post. You are capable of doing it on your own. Prepare to set out on a journey of comfort and warmth that you made yourself.

Let us first examine the fundamentals of a water warm floor before moving on to the techniques. Warm water is circulated via a system of pipes buried beneath the floor to power a water warm floor, in contrast to conventional heating systems that rely on forced air or radiators. This evenly heated, soft radiant heat makes the room comfortable, making it the perfect place to relax after a hard day or enjoy a leisurely sauna session.

Let’s talk about installation now. First method: the staple-up arrangement. As the name implies, this technique uses special fasteners or staples to attach the tubing directly to the subfloor’s underside. It’s an easy method, ideal for bathrooms with subflooring that is reachable. You can maximize comfort and energy efficiency by ensuring effective heat distribution throughout the space with careful planning and attention to detail.

The second approach is the plate system. This technique uses aluminum heat-diffusing plates, which are installed between the subfloor and the finished floor material. The plates have grooves that are made to fit the tubing, so installing them between the two will not only improve heat transfer but also shield the tubing from damage during installation and use, extending the life of your water warm floor.

The third and final approach is the slab-on-grade system. For bath houses with concrete slab flooring, this method works perfectly. Here, the tubing is incorporated into the concrete slab itself, forming a thermal mass that progressively absorbs and releases heat. This approach yields a long-lasting and effective heating solution that easily integrates with your bathhouse’s current infrastructure, even though it might require more labor and planning up front.

Prioritize safety at all times and refer to your local building codes and regulations before beginning any DIY water warm floor installation project. You can turn your bathhouse into a cozy and restful retreat with the correct supplies, advice, and equipment, improving your sauna experience for years to come.

We explore the different approaches and strategies for maintaining a warm and comfortable living environment in our guide to heating and insulating your home, with a special emphasis on installing a water warm floor in a bathroom. We offer three DIY installation methods that are simple to follow and come with clear photo and video guides. Whether you’re a novice looking to improve your house or an experienced do-it-yourselfer, this post provides helpful advice on creating a cozy and welcoming bathroom environment.

Which warm floor to choose for a bathhouse

Physical properties state that warm air masses rise, which explains why the floors are cold even in the steam room, which is quite hot. Bathing procedures are uncomfortable though because of this dissonance between the cold from below and the heat from above.

The microclimate in the bathroom can be enhanced with the help of modern technologies by installing heated flooring of the following types:

• cable – are a heating cable laid under the finish coating operating on electric current;

• infrared – film with infrared plates inside, which heat up during energy supply, the simplest structure in terms of independent installation;

• Water – the pipeline placed under the floor in the bathhouse, heated water is the coolant.

Since the bathroom has a high humidity level, many builders choose not to take the chance of installing electric heated floors themselves.

A water-warm floor is regarded as more popular in this sense. Considering that the bath has a stove and that it is feasible to heat the coolant with it, this combination is also financially advantageous.

Features of the system

Installing a boiler is not necessary when installing a water warm floor in a bathhouse that runs on a wood furnace. That being said, you must construct a heat exchanger above the firebox. Any stainless steel tank is resistant to corrosion because of this. The warm floor installation room is encompassed by the contour.

You must install a small pump in order to replenish the tank with the spent liquid. Without it, the flooring levels and the stove’s location are the only points at which the design functions. With this scheme, the pipe’s diameter should be set at 16 mm; a standard 24-ex millimeter will not function.

The inability to modify the temperature is the primary characteristic of the furnace floor structure. The warm floors in the bathtub should be kept at 40 degrees, and the coolant should heat up to the point where the water is boiling.

• A mixing node is an important part of the system, since the stove is not able to heat the coolant to the desired level. It heats water almost to the stage of boiling, in this state it cannot be delivered to the circuit. Therefore, a mixing node is needed, in it boiling water will be mixed with a spent coolant to the required 40 degrees, and in this form to be sent to the pipeline. Using it, regulation, setting and automatic maintenance of the temperature level of the warm floor in the right mode is carried out.

• Heat exchanger – capacity, coil or register located above the firebox, the liquid from the furnace is heated there. When using antifreeze – as a coolant, it will be necessary to equip a separate heat exchanger, then the antifreeze will not be able to get into the water for washing.

• Circulation pump – it is necessary to evenly distribute and move the coolant through the pipeline. Without it, a warm water floor cannot function, since it provides a circuit with additional pressure for fluid circulation. When choosing the power of the pump on your own, you need to take into account the area of the heated room, the greater it, the higher its performance should be.

It is advised to divide the pipeline into multiple sections of equal length in order to lessen the strain on the pump.

• Drainage – it is necessary to remove excess fluid from the steam and raging room of the bath room. You can equip it with your own hands, taking into account the following two points: by constructing a water removal – a hole for draining, through it the water will drain into the pipe and is displayed into the sewer hole; Bay of the screed with a slope in the direction of the drain hole – then all the water will drain towards the slope.

Principle of operation

The apparatus consists of a pipeline with coolant inside that is heated by a wood-burning or other fuel-fueled bath stove. The warm floor should be heated by converting the furnace.

The system warms up after grimacing, and by the time the steam room is ready, full heating has been reached. uses the installed pump—which is part of the configuration unit—to circulate water. Warm pipes cause the screed and floor covering to warm up, which then transfers the warmth to the space.

Scheme and device "Pies"

If we think of the warm water floor device in a bathhouse as a "pie" that comes from a stove, it is composed of:

• black floor – concrete or wooden;
• waterproofing layer – it prevents the formation of condensate;
• insulation – reduces heat loss;
• reinforcing mesh – protects insulation;
• reflector from foil – directs heat in the right direction;
• heating element – pipe laid in spiral;
• concrete screed – having a slope in the direction of runoff;
• finish coating.

After the warm floor is independently laid out on the ground, a sand pillow needs to be equipped and filled with expanded clay to apply the waterproofing layer on top of it.

Furthermore, an extra installation of the pump, heat exchanger, and mixing unit will be required.

Preparatory work

It is necessary to create a comprehensive plan that includes the dimensions of the heated room, the length of the circuit, the location of the pump insert, the connection section of the mixing unit, and the heat exchanger before beginning construction on the water floor in the bathroom. The amount of material required for the heating structure is calculated based on this drawing.

Following that, you can start the actual installation process, which starts with base and plum preparation:

• Remove the soil between the walls of the foundation, and compact the surface. Before that, lay sewer pipes for wastewater. Through them, water will go into the sewer.
• Fall asleep a layer of sand and crushed stone (15 cm) and compact well.

• Put the insulation from expanded clay, its thickness 150 – 200 mm. It is required to make a slope in the direction of the drain.

3 methods for installing a water circuit

How can you prepare a "pie" yourself using the warm water from the bath’s furnace? We will demonstrate how each task can be completed in a variety of ways.

In a concrete screed

The best base for a bath is one with a concrete screed because the cement mortar resists moisture better and makes it possible to heat the bath to a high standard. Furthermore, this approach allows for material and equipment savings.

However, there is a crucial requirement for independently filling the screed: it must be done using the guidelines and the available technology.

The intricacy of the repair in the event of a breakdown and the possibility of using the structure only after the solution has dried completely—which will take roughly a month—are the drawbacks of this method.

The following actions comprise the process:

1. The basis is prepared – it should be even and clean, if significant irregularities are found, then you can make a thin screed.

• Double waterproofing is produced – the concrete surface is covered with hot bitumen, the roofing roofing roofing roofing is overwhelmed with 10 cm. Then the bitumen is poured again and roofing ground is placed.

• The insulation is laid – preferably stiff and moisture -permeable (EPPS, foam), and with a thickness of at least 5 cm. Must, when placing thermal insulation, you should not forget about the drainage slope.

• The reinforcing mesh is mounted – the pipe will be attached to it.

• The damping tape is glued around the perimeter, at the junction of walls and floor – it compensates for temperature expansion.

• The heating circuit is placed – it is fixed with clamps to the grid.

• A screed is poured – these work is done after connecting the system and checking its performance. Be sure to fill the fill if there is a pressure in the circuit. After hardening it, it can be laid out the floor.

On polystyrene slabs

High-quality polystyrene plates blend seamlessly with bathroom décor and water floors. They have a layer of foil on their surface that can reflect heat and offer effective thermal insulation. Furthermore, the plates feature grooves that make it easy to lay the contour.

The following steps must be followed when installing a water floor in a bathhouse using a stove that you built yourself:

• cleansing and alignment of the draft floor;

• Installation of waterproofing – a roofing material is placed in two layers;

• gluing the damping tape around the perimeter;

• the placement of heat -insulating mats with bosses is better if they have a reflective surface;

• installation of a water circuit – it is placed according to the scheme in the grooves between the bosses;

• System connection – performance check and lack of leak;

• screed – it is better to pour concrete according to the installed beacons, the surface should be with a small bias to runoff;

• Installation of the floor covering – after complete hardening of concrete, the coating is creeping, and the floor can be used.

Laying on a wooden floor

This technique works well when the base is weak and cannot support the weight of the concrete-cement screed. The black wooden coating is directly on top of the pipes. However, because the floor does not make a straight line contact with the contour, this design is less effective.

However, because the baths lack sufficient strength in their most mass, they are frequently used in conjunction with an independent arrangement of warm floors.

The dark wooden floor needs to be cleaned first.

Next, the damping tape is installed and the plastic film is applied for waterproofing.

On the wooden floor, lags are put in place and fastened with screws. Place them in between the main boards.

Thermal insulation is the next step, which involves installing a heater in between the lags and pulling off a second layer of film to keep moisture out.

A metal profile is placed, foil is placed in the grooves between the wooden rails, or rails are installed across the lag.

Pipes are laid, arranged in profile or on foil in accordance with the plan. After connecting it, the heating system’s functionality is examined.

The substrate for the finish coating from plywood or sheets of chipboard is mounted.

The flooring is spongy; wood or tiles are utilized more frequently.

Although it takes longer, this method of heating the bath using a warm water floor is less expensive.

Connect the warm floor to the stove

It is required to create a separate trunk for the purpose of heating the coolant when using independent water floor luggage from the bath furnace. In order to accomplish this, either install a heat exchanger above the furnace compartment or construct a pipe system that connects the furnace.

It is important to remember the mixing node, where hot water is mixed with spent to achieve the desired temperature when it enters the circuit.

The pump is connected to the pump system, which provides coolant circulation, so that the cooled water from the pipes can be sent back into the heat exchanger for heating.

Method	Description
1. Dry installation	This method involves placing the water pipes directly under the floor surface without pouring concrete. It"s quicker and less messy but may not provide as much insulation.
2. Wet installation with concrete	In this method, the water pipes are embedded within a layer of concrete. It provides better heat distribution and insulation but takes longer and requires careful planning.
3. Retrofit installation	This method is for existing structures where the warm water pipes are installed on top of the existing floor and covered with a new layer of finishing material. It"s suitable for renovations but may raise the floor level.

Your sauna sessions will be completely different if you install a water warm floor in your bathhouse. It will feel warm underfoot and improve the atmosphere in the space. We’ve covered three do-it-yourself installation techniques in this guide, along with useful picture and video instructions.

The staple-up installation technique, which is comparatively simple and appropriate for both new construction and existing structures, was the first one we discussed. You can effectively distribute heat throughout the room and guarantee consistent warmth in your bathhouse by attaching the tubing directly to the subfloor.

We talked about the slab-on-grade method for those who wanted a more conventional approach. By burying the heating tubing in a concrete slab, this method produces a very even and high thermal mass distribution. The end product is a strong and effective heated floor system that can survive the rigors of frequent sauna use, despite the fact that it requires careful planning and execution.

Finally, we looked at the retrofit approach, which works well for bath houses that already have concrete or wood floors. You can take advantage of the benefits of a water warm floor without having to undertake major renovations by installing the tubing above the current floor surface and covering it with a layer of lightweight concrete or self-leveling compound.

Regardless of the method you choose, proper insulation is essential to maximize the efficiency of your water warm floor system. By minimizing heat loss to the surrounding environment, you can reduce energy consumption and maintain comfortable temperatures in your bathhouse throughout the year.

With the help of this article’s advice, you can install a water warm floor in your bathroom with confidence, improving its comfort and aesthetic appeal for many years to come. Whether you choose the retrofit, slab-on-grade, or staple-up approach, the end product will be a comfortable haven where you can unwind and refresh after a demanding day.

Video on the topic

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