Water and electric warm floor: power by 1 m2, calculation of consumption and methods of reducing expenses

Few things are more crucial to maintaining the coziness and comfort of our homes than a dependable heating system. Furthermore, warm floors that are powered by electricity or water have become increasingly common in the world of home heating solutions. Many homeowners prefer these systems because they distribute heat in an effective and reliable manner.

Effective usage and cost management of these warm floor systems depend on an understanding of their power requirements and consumption. Homes can decide how much energy to use and spend by knowing how much power is required per square meter and how to calculate consumption accurately.

Knowing how much power is needed per square meter is essential to maximizing the use of both electric and water warm floors. This measurement aids homeowners in figuring out how much energy is required to efficiently heat a particular space in their house. Knowing this, they can make the appropriate adjustments to their heating settings to guarantee maximum comfort and minimal energy waste.

Water and electric warm floor consumption calculations take into account a number of variables, including the wattage of the system, the number of hours it runs, and the quality of the insulation. Homeowners can calculate the approximate energy consumption of their warm floor system for a specific time period by considering these factors. They can make wise financial decisions and look into ways to cut back on energy use when feasible thanks to this information.

A multifaceted strategy is needed to lower the costs related to warm floors that run on water and electricity. There are a number of tactics that homeowners can use to reduce their energy costs without sacrificing comfort, from improving insulation to implementing smart heating techniques. Homeowners can maintain budgets while still taking advantage of warm floors by using these techniques.

Topic Water and Electric Warm Floor
Power per 1 m2 Varies based on system type and installation, typically between 80-200 Watts per square meter for electric and 50-100 Watts per square meter for water-based systems.
Calculation of Consumption Calculate total floor area in square meters and multiply by power per square meter. For example, if your room is 10 m2 and your system uses 100 Watts per m2, then consumption would be 10 m2 x 100 W/m2 = 1000 Watts (or 1 kW).
Methods of Reducing Expenses 1. Optimize insulation: Proper insulation reduces heat loss, decreasing the energy required to maintain warmth. 2. Use programmable thermostats: Set heating schedules to match your occupancy patterns, avoiding unnecessary heating. 3. Zone heating: Only heat the rooms you"re using instead of the entire house. 4. Regular maintenance: Ensure your system is well-maintained to maximize efficiency and longevity.

It’s no secret that different buildings have different temperatures. As an illustration:

  • In the bedroom, kitchen or living room – 29 degrees are considered standard;
  • in the bathroom or bathroom, where a high level of humidity is 31;
  • in rooms where an increased level of heat loss. It can be a loggia or a large room with a large number of windows – 35.

When utilizing rolled carpet, linoleum, parquet, or laminate, the system temperature—which we should start with—will be a typical 27 degrees.

Factors determining the power of the warm floor

Many factors influence the device’s power selection, which must be considered in order for the heating system to function properly.

The climate is also a significant factor. The heating system’s performance should be chosen with wiggle room if the home is located in an area with a cold climate.

The main heating or not

The type of heating—that is, whether the system will be the primary source of heat or supplemental—is one of the variables influencing power. A higher performing device is needed if this is the primary heating system; 200 W of specific power are needed per square meter.

Every kind of heated floor has a specific thermal power per square meter standard.

  • cable – 220 – 230 watts;
  • cable mats – 100 – 160 watts;
  • infrared film – 130 – 230 watts;
  • rod – 130 – 160 watts;
  • Water – 40 – 150.

View of the room and its size

Every room serves a different purpose, which determines how the temperature indicator works. In addition, the room’s size and number of windows have an impact on the temperature.

For instance, the heating system installed on the loggia should have a higher power than what is specified for the kitchen.

Electric floor manufacturers typically follow these guidelines when making recommendations:

  • Bathroom – 150 to 180 watts/m2;
  • Glazed balcony – 150 to 180;
  • kitchen, bedroom, corridor – 110 to 150.

Depending on the size of the heated room, the areas where large furniture will be placed don’t need to be considered when calculating the power of warm floors because heating should not be installed beneath it. It goes without saying that a lower performance heater will be needed in smaller spaces.

Additionally, the type of material used to build the house—wood, brick, or concrete—affects thermal conductivity.


The finish coating has a major influence on the heating power indicator. Ultimately, the substance exhibits varying levels of thermal conductivity.

Because laminate is a poor heat conductor, using the heated floor beneath it will increase the cost of the heat resource. Using carpet or linoleum will cause heating to happen more quickly, saving thermal energy.

Thermal insulation of the room and thermal losses of the building

One of the most crucial elements in calculating the power of the warm floor per meter is the house’s thermal insulation, which is largely dependent on heat losses. Poor insulation (in the form of windows, doors, and ceilings) will cause the system to work harder and use more heat resources, which will raise costs.

The walls of older panel houses are only 10 to 15 cm thick. Thermal losses in these strokes can approach 50%.

The temperature in degrees Good isolation (W/m2) Average Bad
18 40 70 110
20 47 77 117
24 90 120 160

With the aid of an internet calculator, one can independently determine the room’s approximate thermal insulation rating. Modern SNiPs state that a thermal protection level of between 100 and 130 W/m2 is appropriate.

To ensure that heat does not escape through the ceilings where the heating system will be installed, it is advised to insulate those areas further.

Type of installation

The warm floor’s installation technique influences the power option as well. After all, the thickness of the "pie" determines how much heat is transferred.

  1. Cement screed – one of the installation option. Concrete solution is poured with a minimum layer of 30 mm. For the strength of the structure, a polypropylene fiber, or a mounting grid, is laid for thermal insulation, to which the heating element is attached. A concrete screed is filled on top. The thicker the concrete layer, the time the time is longer, but at the same time, the heat is accumulated, which increases the cooling period.
  2. Warm floor for tiles – often made on the old base. First, a cable with a certain step is laid, the smaller it is, the better. The heater is poured with tile glue, after hardening the tile is mounted. This method provides good heat transfer.
  3. Dry installation under the laminate-if it is impossible to fill the concrete screed, due to the severity of the structure, then installation is carried out in the string. So that the temperature is uniform over the entire surface, the strokes must have a depth of 10 mm, in which the heating element is laid. If the high -power cable is 180 – 200 watts, then the strobes are recommended to be made with a depth of 15 – 20 mm.

Type of thermoregulator

Thermoregulator: gadget that adjusts temperature sensor signals. He is in charge of giving the gadget power and, if needed, turning on and off the heating, which conserves the resource.

Determination of the area

It is important to keep in mind that the space beneath stationary furniture and appliances is ignored when determining the water floor’s power.

The areas where furniture will stand are subtracted from the calculated area of the room using the standard formula (square area, rectangle, etc.D.).

Calculation of heat loss

Heat loss is the amount of heat lost by a room in a given amount of time, expressed quantitatively. Heating appliances are used, along with effective thermal insulation, to minimize heat loss.

The following factors are considered when calculating thermal losses:

  • room area;
  • the size of the windows and doors;
  • ceiling height;
  • the number of external walls;
  • temperature outside the window;
  • thermal insulation of walls;
  • Type of the room that is above.

You can use the online calculator to determine heat loss.

The flow rate of the coolant

You will need to know how many times coolant flows through the pipeline in an hour in order to compute the water flow. This is necessary in order to select the appropriate pump performance and configure rotometers with competence.

This formula is used to calculate water consumption:

  • G – water consumption in kg/h;
  • Q – thermal power in Tu;
  • Δt – the temperature difference of the coolant in the supply and reverse circuit, for warm floors it is 10 ° C;
  • 0.86 – Water heat capacity coefficient.

Laying step and circuit length

In private housing, 16 mm-diameter polyethylene or metal-plastic profiles are more frequently installed for floor heating. A pipeline can be laid in a variety of shapes, such as a snake or a snail, and the styling step shouldn’t be too tiny.

It is advised that each circuit be no more than 80 meters long. Its size influences the pump power selection.

The following formula can be used to determine the circuit’s length:

  • F – the area of the room;
  • B is a step -by -step step.

The pipeline must be split into multiple loops if its length exceeds 100 meters.

Paul power

The water’s power, which is only 40 to 150 watts per square meter, is not very large. The surface’s heat distribution must be uniform and free of cold spots in order for the system to function properly. It is advised to decrease the pipe step in order to enhance heat transfer.

The performance of the boiler

The power of the warm floors throughout the entire house is taken into consideration when calculating the boiler’s power. You should add all of the values that were intended for each room.

To get the required productivity of the boiler, you need to add 15% to the result. If the boiler is purchased without a reserve, it will use up its resources as fast as feasible when it is operating at 100% load.

Modern boilers have a 24 kilowatt output, which is sufficient to heat the middle room, which is 240 m³. Electric boats are available, and they come with an integrated pump, which is really practical.

Circulation pump

The hydropolis will not function properly without a pump. How do I figure out the pump’s power for heated floors? The hydraulic resistance in the highway determines the necessary pump strength; the longer the pipeline, the higher the resistance.

You can use the following formula to find the pump’s performance:

  • PN – power of the heating device in kW;
  • Tobr.T is the temperature indicator of the coolant in the return;
  • TPR.T – temperature level in feed.

Selecting floor plans that let you modify the power to a significant degree is advised. Turning it on to its maximum setting will speed up the heating of the floors.

The heating temperature should automatically drop after the system reaches the predetermined parameters.

Calculate the power of the electric warm floor

Determine whether the network can handle an increased load before calculating the power of the heated electric floor (heating cable, mat, or infrared system) and start the project. It will determine who he is as well.

  • The main – 150 – 220 W/m2;
  • Additional – 110 – 150.

Installing a warm floor with a maximum heat loss of 100 W per m2 is advised. An additional heating system is required if the indicator is larger.

With the exception of a self-regulating heating cable, all electric floors cannot be placed beneath large furniture because the systems are frightened of overheating.

So, just like with water heating, you have to first plan out how you want your furniture to be arranged before you can figure out how powerful the device is. In other words, the area that will be heated must be calculated.

Suppose you have a 20 m³ room. When we subtract the 8 m2 area that will be occupied by furniture from this number, we are left with a heated area of 12 m2.

Generally speaking, it is more accurate to determine the system’s power by volume rather than area because heating requires more energy.

Heat loss also influences the electric floor’s choice of heat transfer. Since these computations are fairly complicated, you can use the tables that are found online or in specialist literature. The values listed there, of course.

Manufacturers indicate the marking with the electric warm floor power per square meter. This is how it appears: 220V/50-60hz/50cm/55W, or 220 W at which the floor operates and produces 55 W per square. When using a heating resistive cable, its performance is limited; however, by narrowing the turns’ width, it can be increased to 200 W on m2.

We’ll compute an example to find the infrared warm floor’s maximum power. We use a standard film with a voltage of 220 W per 1 m2 and the heated area’s dimensions, which we calculated above to be 12 m2.

12 m2 times 220 W is 2 640 W.

Consequently, we learn that a film warm floor with a 2640 watt total capacity will be needed for our room.

We explore a critical area of energy efficiency and comfort in homes in our piece on water and electric heated floors. We examine the power needs per square meter for both kinds of systems and help homeowners figure out how much energy they use. In addition, we offer doable strategies to lower running costs for these systems, enabling readers to make knowledgeable choices about insulation and heating for their houses. Our goal is to help homeowners maximize their warmth and comfort while minimizing energy costs by dissecting intricate ideas into simple terms.

Which floor heating system to choose

Either an electric or water heated floor can produce a cozy and welcoming atmosphere in the home.

Installing water is more common in private homes because it is less expensive than using energy. However, installing it in an apartment requires connecting to the central heating system, which is not allowed without authorization.

Electric types should take precedence in apartment buildings. Models with modest power can be used because the apartments are already heated by main radiators.

The cable view is the best choice if the house’s construction permits it and a screed is intended for the filling. The mats are the easiest to spread out on the floor and the easiest to lay.

Infrared tape floors are a good option if the ceiling height is an obstacle. They are only 3 mm thick. Infrared radiation, which boosts efficiency by 95%, is used to carry out heating, resulting in more economical electricity use. Furthermore, such a system is installable beneath any coating.

Determine the temperature regime in the room

There are two methods by which you can ascertain the room’s temperature: by following your personal preferences or by applying industry standards.

Three locations are used to measure the temperature: the floor, 50 cm and 150 cm above the ground. The minimum angle should be at least 18 degrees at a height of 150 cm, and each person should determine the maximum. The floor’s temperature shouldn’t be higher than 40 degrees. Ten degrees is the maximum allowed temperature differential between two rooms.

Making the decision to install electric or water-based underfloor heating in your home is a big one that requires careful consideration of things like cost and power usage. Making an informed decision can be aided by knowing the power requirements per square meter and how to calculate consumption.

In comparison to water-based systems, electric underfloor heating usually uses more power per square meter. That does not, however, imply that it is less effective. In retrofit projects, electric systems are simpler to install and provide quicker response times. On the other hand, if you have access to renewable energy sources for heating the water, water-based systems might have lower operating costs over time.

The area that needs to be heated, the desired temperature, and the efficiency of the system are some of the factors that go into calculating how much energy your underfloor heating system will consume. You can estimate your monthly or annual consumption by multiplying the power per square meter by the total area, accounting for operating hours and energy costs.

Consider putting energy-saving measures into practice to lower underfloor heating costs. For both kinds of systems, proper insulation is essential to reducing heat loss and raising efficiency. Furthermore, you can save energy in unused spaces by zoning your heating system to only heat the rooms that are in use.

Purchasing a programmable thermostat is another way to maximize your underfloor heating expenses. This enables you to program precise temperature schedules according to your daily schedule, guaranteeing that the system will only run when necessary. Regular maintenance can also help avoid inefficiencies and expensive repairs. Examples of this include clearing the air from water-based systems and inspecting electric systems for any electrical problems.

In conclusion, it’s critical to consider power requirements, consumption estimates, and cost-saving measures when thinking about water and electric underfloor heating for your house. Choose the system that best fits your needs, lifestyle, and budget as each has pros and cons. It is possible to have underfloor heating and maintain cost control at the same time with careful planning, installation, and maintenance.

What type of heating you would like to have in your home?
Share to friends
Michael Kuznetsov

I love to create beauty and comfort with my own hands. In my articles I share tips on warming the house and repairing with my own hands.

Rate author
Add a comment