Waste oil boiler with a water circuit with their own hands: drawings, scheme of the waste oil boiler

It’s economical and environmentally beneficial to heat your house sustainably and efficiently. Constructing a water circuit-equipped waste oil boiler on your own is an inventive method to accomplish this. Waste oil boilers are an excellent way to heat your house while recycling spent oil. This post will explain how to construct a waste oil boiler with a water circuit and provide you with instructions in the form of schematics and drawings.

Let’s first review the definition of a waste oil boiler with a water circuit before getting into the specifics. In essence, it’s a boiler that heats water by burning waste oil, which is then pumped through the heating system in your house. This technology not only saves money but also protects the environment by reusing oil that would otherwise be thrown away.

Although building your own waste oil boiler may seem like a difficult undertaking, it can be a rewarding do-it-yourself project with the correct advice and skills. You can build your own waste oil boiler with a water circuit by using the instructions and drawings in this article. This will save you money on heating bills and lessen your environmental effect.

Assembly of a homemade heater

The shape of the boiler can be customized to suit the owner’s preferences. Typically, it is shaped like a circle or rectangle.

Before beginning the assembly, make sure you have the required supplies and equipment ready. The following is their usual list:

  • steel sheets with a thickness of more than 4 mm;
  • pipe for the air duct;
  • rebar pieces (4 pcs.);
  • pump and compressor;
  • expansion tank;
  • welding tools;
  • asbestos sheet.

Since the boiler can be made in a variety of ways, you can use makeshift tools in place of the primary material, like a cylinder or a pipe with thick walls and a big enough diameter.

Making the boiler body

Prior to assembling the boiler’s body, the pipe with the largest diameter needs to be cut on both sides to create a cylinder that is no longer than one meter. A 20 cm-tall pipe with a smaller cross-section is used to create the same cylindrical shape.

The plates are then drilled with two holes, the first of which should have a diameter of 20 cm and the second of which should match the chimney’s measurements. After that, the larger-diameter cylinder is welded to both sides of the previously prepared plates, creating a 20-centimeter hole from the bottom.

It is welded onto and has the smaller diameter cylinder integrated into it. Additionally, a plate should be placed over the bottom of the pipe and welded in place. Next, the ventilation holes are drilled and the reinforcement’s legs are fastened to the body. Next, install the chimney on top of the cylindrical device, and use a Bulgarian machine to help a bolgar cut out the door in the lower part.

Even with this housing’s most basic design, a water circuit can be connected to it. Additionally, connect the air compressor, pump, and fuel tank for this purpose. To guarantee water circulation in this scenario, a circuit is also implemented.

Mounting the burner

Installing a dependable burner is essential to ensuring that the water in the boiler for the device with a two-circuit system heats evenly.

Although you can order one from a specialist or buy a ready-made burner from a store, you can also make one yourself by following a specific plan.

Preparing the place for the system installation and chimney outlet

Usually, the assembled components of the waste oil heating device are placed in the building’s corner. The walls and floor should be ready for this because the boiler heats up quickly.

The system’s installation site requires the creation of a ceramic tile lining or concrete screed. It is not recommended to use flammable materials for the walls next to the device.

Installing the chimney is a necessary step after the heating system’s body is fixed in its designated location. It is usually made to be at least 4 meters long.

A heat-resistant casing, which may be filled with multiple layers of asbestos, is installed on the ceiling section where the pipe exits the building. A metal damper is fitted to the chimney to ensure control over draughts.

How to connect the water circuit?

The installation of piping and batteries, which are connected to one another and fixed along the room’s perimeter along the walls, is a prerequisite for installing a water circuit on the construction site by hand. The next step is to select a water container and use bolts or welding to firmly secure it to the boiler drum.

To supply the heated liquid to the system, a pipe is welded into place after a hole is cut from the top of the vessel. To enable the cooled water to return to the boiler, an additional pipe is connected at the bottom of the circuit.

Hands-on waste oil heating system: easy to install and operate, with a straightforward design. Even in extremely cold temperatures, you can now spend more time in the garage after installing this equipment.

Constructing a waste oil boiler with a water circuit could be a great way to cut waste and save money on heating. You can build your own boiler that effectively burns waste oil to heat water for your home with a few simple materials and some basic know-how. We’ll give you step-by-step instructions and a blueprint in this post so you can construct your own waste oil boiler. This is a worthwhile do-it-yourself project to think about if you’re trying to save costs on heating or are concerned about the environment.

Assembling a waste heat boiler with your own hands

The following phases are part of it.

  1. We divide the casing into two parts, making a "jacket" in the upper one. Between the two chambers we make a hermetic partition. To the lower part it will be necessary to connect the return of the heating system, in the upper part we fix the pipe for hot water injection.
  2. We pass the pipe through the sealed partition. This pipe will play the role of the second combustion chamber and chimney. The inside of the pipe is carefully insulated from water, so welding is done with ring seams on the outside of the pipe. In the lower part of the pipe make kerfs for the formation of air-oil mixture.
  3. The lower end is welded with the cover of the primary combustion chamber in a separate cylinder. This cylinder must be removable. The burner is also located there.
  4. In the lower part of the body through the pipe, connected with hoses to the burner spigots.
  5. The primary waste combustion chamber is equipped with a door. Through this door it will be possible to clean the burner and the chamber itself.
  6. Assembling the construction. Fill the "jacket" of the upper part of the boiler with water. Pour oil into the lower part of the combustion chamber, turn on the pump and spark plug. Our waste heat boiler is not only made by our hands, but also works!

Principle of operation

Oh, and how does it all operate? After all, there will be a fire if waste oil is put into a conventional furnace!

The functioning principle of the devices mentioned bears many similarities to the common soldering lamp. The stove is composed of two containers that are connected by an air supply pipe.

In this instance, the oil is actually poured into the lower compartment. It gets hotter there and starts to evaporate. After entering the air exchange pipe, these vapors catch fire. The second tank, the afterburner, receives the burning oil-air mixture. It burns down there in the end, and all the leftover gases and metal particles—of which there are plenty in the oil—go up the chimney.

First start

To accomplish this, you’ll need:

  1. Slide the latch on the evaporation chamber, check the fuel supply into it.
  2. Start the fan and make sure that it effectively disperses the air throughout the combustion chamber. This can be seen most quickly by the cold air coming from the chimney.
  3. Turn on the supply and check the air supply with the gate valve at the outlet of the combustion chamber.

It is still necessary to inspect the boiler assembly itself if every component is operating as it should. You must light the burner using the lit paper and begin feeding the waste in order to accomplish this. If the room warmed up after an hour, the boiler is in good working order and is available for continuous use.

Possible problems during operation

It’s possible that you will run into issues when you first boot up. Below is a list of potential errors along with their causes:

  1. Boiler works properly, heating is weak. Raising the temperature to warm up the fuel will solve the problem. This is also confirmed by the rapidly accumulating soot.
  2. The room is stuffy and lacks air. The problem is poor tightness – waste fuel boilers burn oxygen from the surrounding space.
  3. Burner goes out quickly. It is necessary to inspect the filters and change them if they are clogged, t.к. Poorly cleaned waste oil quickly clogs the burner with soot even before it has time to heat up.

Heat exchanger assembly

The stove was intended to provide garage heat. Since my garage does not contain water batteries, I have determined that it is preferable to heat and circulate air simultaneously. If you have water batteries, you can bypass the air heat exchanger and simply connect four to five water coils in parallel through the upper chamber. A fan and a circulation pump should be added to the construction in such a situation. With this equipment, you can use the stove to heat the entire house; all you need to do is set aside a room for the stove’s installation.

Putting the heat exchanger together

Returning to my heat exchanger, let’s. I placed it where the heat is greatest, between the stove’s burner and the chimney. iron plate that was welded to the heat exchanger. The flame will be better maintained as a result. Moreover, it will aid in spreading the fire throughout the stove’s body.

Include an air swirler within the heat exchanger. This swirler doesn’t have any clever engineering, but it does a great job completing its job. When operating at maximum power, the exhaust air is so hot it can pierce through gloves and turn the metal of the body red. In the picture, the swirler itself is visible.

After that, I set up a duct fan on one side of the heat exchanger. By the way, you can automate this by connecting a thermorelay to the fan. You’ll be able to save resources and control the temperature independently thanks to this. For instance, I chose to use an Autonics thermostat that was just sitting there. However, some budget models, like Vemer KLIMA, are also an option. I used it as well, and it works flawlessly.

The fuel compartment is the center of heat.

Working principle of a homemade waste heat stove

My waste oil stove operates using a very basic idea. The ignition process is complete. The stove heats up as the fuel starts to burn on the body. Under the effect of traction, oil vapors are released through the chimney during the process.

A section of the chimney with a lot of holes—typically up to fifty—is part of the stove’s design. The burner is this component of the apparatus. Under the influence of the draft, oxygen mixed with oil vapors enters the chimney in this type of burner. Their mixing causes the combustion process to intensify and become much cleaner, releasing a tremendous amount of heat in the process.

The way a homemade waste oil stove operates

The order of manufacture of the furnace

Let us state right away that it is preferable to follow the aforementioned measurements as closely as possible, since they are all determined by taking into account the maximum degree of fuel combustion and the device’s maximum efficiency.

  1. A waste tank is made by welding a steel sheet bottom to a piece of 344-millimeter pipe. The legs are welded to the "pot" at once.
  2. The lid for the tank is made. A 60 mm diameter hole is made in it, simultaneously serving for pouring the waste and for regulating the draught when the furnace is operating, so the hole is equipped with a damper. Through it will also be carried out and ignition with the help of rolled up paper, wood chips, etc. д.
  3. The combustion chamber is made, for which 48 holes of 9 mm in diameter are drilled evenly in a long 100 mm pipe. The chamber is welded to the lid of the oil tank.
  4. The combustion chamber is made of 352-millimeter pipe. Do not forget to weld in a partition, the reason for its necessity was described above.
  5. Weld the structure to the holey combustion chamber.

Main advantages and disadvantages of the equipment operation. Measures to prevent unwanted consequences

When compared to other heating installations, handcrafted boilers on waste offer several advantages.

  • cheap fuel. Moreover, it can work on any kind of oil (mineral, synthetic, transmission or their combination);
  • low cost of a homemade device. All costs are recouped literally within one year, which allows you to further heat the room without additional costs;
  • ease of installation and a small number of parts during manufacture, which facilitates further operation and maintenance;
  • fast heating and preservation of the required temperature of the room and water. For this purpose, a water circuit should be connected to the furnace;
  • ecological safety of the equipment. When working burns not the oil itself, but its vapors, and almost without residue, which eliminates the possibility of toxic waste;
  • resistance to mechanical damage;
  • compactness of the equipment.

However, there are a few drawbacks to DIY waste oil boilers:

  • Since the fuel is formed by oil vapors mixed with air, the boiler burns all the oxygen in the room. Therefore, it is necessary to make a reliable ventilation. Which can also be organized by yourself.
  • A special filter should be used at the inlet to clean the oil from various impurities. In order to prolong the life of the filter, it is necessary to allow the oil to settle out.
  • The construction must be located strictly on the floor. It is necessary to use drawings and a plan of the room.
  • To ensure fire safety, the space around the boiler must be completely clear.
  • The stove and chimney should be cleaned thoroughly and regularly.

These elements can be linked, not so much to the drawbacks as to the safety regulations that need to be followed in order for the equipment to operate safely.

Making waste oil boilers with their own hands

One of the key benefits of this kind of heating equipment is the ability to create their own boilers using waste oil.

Parts of the boiler made from waste oil. To enlarge, click.

Handmade boilers and heating systems that run on waste oil are known for their ease of construction, low cost of operation, and simplicity.

Boilers that run on waste oil can be made at home and have a 5 to 15 kW capacity.

A room up to 50 square meters in size can be heated to 80°C with this power reserve. There will be no more than 1.5 hours of heating.

The following components, tools, and equipment must be ready before beginning the assembly and installation of the waste oil boiler: the expansion tank, the air compressor, the circulation pump, the oil supply pump, the special burner, the boiler, the sections of pipes meant for the supply and return lines, or ready-made lines in the assembly, and the welding equipment.

Boiler component dimensions for homemade boilers. To enlarge, click.

The vaporization chamber may be constructed from a robust, 400°C-resistant piece of pipe with thick walls. A tiny tube that is filled with air and circulated via a fan is positioned in the middle of this chamber.

When air masses enter the boiler, they enrich oil vapors, which are then burned in the boiler’s working chamber. The coolant flowing through the pipe lines heats up during combustion.

Boiler ignition

About 100 grams of combustible liquid (kerosene, diesel fuel, or special liquid) must be added to the combustion chamber in order to ignite the boiler for the first time.

One side of the paper wick is submerged in the flammable liquid. The wick is then lit and lowered through the top cover or ash pan to the bottom of the chamber.

The supercharger fan needs to be running while performing this operation. The quick ignition of a flammable liquid will cause the oil to boil and the boiler to heat up and go into operation.

Heating boilers that run on waste oil or oil waste only need to have their oil periodically topped off as they burn down.

Some recommendations of specialists

  1. It is strictly forbidden to store fuels and lubricants in the immediate vicinity of the boiler.
  2. It is obligatory to equip the heated room with a chimney designed for reliable and efficient removal of combustion products (smoke and cinders).
  3. It is necessary to protect the places of contact of the chimney with the wooden ceiling and ceiling by means of protective covers made of heat-resistant material, for example, asbestos.
  4. It is necessary to use a special adjusting damper designed for the required operation of the entire draught system. In winter the damper performs the function of regulating the flow of cold air, in summer – organizes the circulation of air masses.
  5. Premises in which used heating boilers on waste engine oil, must be equipped with effective air ventilation systems.

This requirement is necessary to prevent carbon monoxide buildup in the heated room in addition to ensuring a steady flow of fresh air for the regular operation of open-type burner devices.


You can use this kind of heating equipment without fear to heat commercial, residential, and even industrial spaces as long as it complies with the relatively straightforward requirements for the boiler’s construction, installation, and ongoing operation.

The possible risks associated with this kind of boiler equipment should always be considered when using waste oil-fired boilers.

It should be noted that this prerequisite applies to all varieties of heating boilers, including those that run on waste engine oil.

Features of ignition of the furnace on waste oil

Because of the intricacy of mineral oil ignition, there are certain subtleties that must be understood in order to melt the furnace of such a design:

  • Before each use of the furnace it is necessary to perform an external inspection of the structure, make sure it is in good working order, check the condition of the chimney (if necessary to clean it).
  • Inspect the lower container (oil tank), make sure that no water has got into it.
  • The usual fuel reserve should be 2-3 liters of oil, if necessary, it is necessary to top it up.
  • The stove is ignited through the filler hole with a burning oiled wick, which can be twisted from ordinary rags. Before ignition of the main volume of oil may take up to 5 minutes (to accelerate ignition, you can add 100 grams of kerosene to the container).
  • After the appearance of a steady flame combustion it is necessary to set the required draft of the furnace. Usually the damper is left ajar by 1-2 cm. If necessary, the combustion intensity can be adjusted using the same damper.

These kinds of devices have a straightforward design and produce a significant amount of heat. Installing this kind of heating will save you a lot of money and you won’t regret it if you have an endless supply of waste.

The best known manufacturers and models: characteristics and prices

DanVex B-30

Among the best waste heat boilers available for heating a private residence made in Finland. Apart from the 35.6 kW model, there exist variants with a heat output ranging from 60 to 220 kW. High dependability and a well-designed system for simple cleaning and maintenance (such as wider furnace and chimney pipe diameters, a vertical chimney that collects soot in the ash pan, and a door that opens along with the burner to allow handle-press access to the combustion chamber) are some of its distinguishing features.

The boiler is renowned for its 88% efficiency, which is among the highest for this kind of boiler, as well as its small size and functional automation, which allows for the connection of a GSM module. Fuel consumption of 3.3 l/h at maximum load. The model offers all the required safety features, including the ability to connect external temperature sensors and a room thermostat.

The heavy weight (157 kg), lack of a fuel pump, noisy operation, and excessively high price are the only known drawbacks. Finland is the manufacturing nation.

250 000–275 000 rubles is the cost.

NORTEC B70 (WB 40)

40 kW capacity model from the Russian manufacturer. The device and its working principle are identical to that of the Finnish analog described above. It has a larger size and fewer functional controls, is less convenient to use, and uses the same heat exchanger composed of heat-resistant steel.

But it also comes with a lot of benefits, like being significantly less expensive, having a full fuel unit (pump, filters, tank), which includes the boiler, and being able to operate on a variety of fuels (fuel oil, crude oil, heating oil).

Price: RUB 146–175 thousand.


Russian production model, vertical drip style, 15 kW capacity. The model stands out for its incredibly low cost, small size, dependability, and inclusion of an oil pump in the kit. Has the ability to burn kerosene in addition to waste oil. Although the model has one of the best automatic control units for dripping oil boilers in its class, the automation is still not as good as standard models that atomize the fuel.

The requirement for daily cleaning and the domestic quality of assembly are other well-known drawbacks. Based on installation experience and owner feedback, the model functions flawlessly for over seven years in every scenario.

36 800-39 900 rubles is the cost.

Stavpech KDO-2

Another 28 kW drip model that is domestic in nature. The boiler is more expensive and has fewer functional automatics, but it operates on the same design and principle as the EcoBoil. One benefit is the easily removable pyrolysis bowl, which allows for easy cleaning and easy replacement in the event of burnout.

44,500–50,000 rubles is the cost.

Requirements for operation of waste oil boilers

Oil boilers are thought of as straightforward and practical machinery—but only when used correctly.

The minimal requirements will lengthen the units’ service life and ensure flawless operation:

  1. Equip the boiler room with good ventilation. Sometimes vapors of combustion products get into the air, poisoning it. To prevent leakage in the living quarters, the boiler room is organized outside the house or in a separate isolated and ventilated room.
  2. The cleaner the waste oil is, the longer the nozzles will work, the more efficient the combustion process is. Any oil is used, including waste oil from household appliances. Manufacturers of equipment specify in the data sheet the requirements to the energy carrier, they should be adhered to.
  3. Install an additional filter system. Filtration devices for oil will help to further purify the energy carrier.
  4. Connect the boiler to the chimney with a damper. The area of the pipe passage in the roof should be supplemented with a protective cover.
  5. Provide a separate room for storing waste oil. Stocks must not be stored in the boiler room.
  6. Disconnect the unit from operation before filling oil. The first portion can be mixed with kerosene at the rate of 10 parts of oil 1 part of kerosene.
  7. The heat exchanger must be cleaned regularly. Factory boilers are equipped with a removable back panel. In in-house boilers, provide access to the heat exchanger for cleaning soot and combustion products. Cleaning is step-by-step – first brush dry, then after removing the layers it is acceptable to wipe the parts with a damp cloth.
  8. Change nozzles at least once a season. Even if the nozzles are visually clean, the boiler worked for a short time, the parts must be replaced, because they clog inside the boiler. Timely replacement will double the service life of the equipment.
  9. Oil filters should be changed at least once a season, but it is better to do it more often. Especially if you use oil with poor filtration. It is more practical to install two filters – coarse and fine filters. In this case, the nozzle receives a purified mixture, it clogs the construction less, the combustion will be effective and fast.

Constructing a waste oil boiler with a water circuit can be an economical and sustainable approach to heating your house. You can recycle a potentially hazardous waste product and save money on heating bills by using waste oil as fuel.

Although building your own waste oil boiler may seem difficult, it is completely doable with the correct resources and advice. To assist you in comprehending the procedure and constructing your own boiler, we have included comprehensive drawings and schematics in this article.

Building a waste oil boiler that will effectively heat your house and provide hot water only requires a basic understanding of heating systems and some do-it-yourself skills. To make sure your boiler is safe and in compliance, just make sure you adhere to local laws and safety regulations.

You can take advantage of free or inexpensive heating for many years after your waste oil boiler is operational. You’ll not only cut your heating costs but also contribute to waste reduction and environmental protection.

Video on the topic


Two-turn boiler on waste oil. Project. Control scheme.

Waste oil burner. Simply. Reliably. Without electricity.

Simple, economical waste oil boiler. With your own hands. Waste oil boiler.

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Sergey Ivanov

I like to help people create comfort and comfort in their homes. I share my experience and knowledge in articles so that you can make the right choice of a heating and insulation system for your home.

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