Warming of the greenhouse for growing crop in cold weather

Keeping a greenhouse at the ideal temperature for growing crops becomes more important as the months get colder. An excellent tool for extending the growing season and shielding plants from inclement weather is a greenhouse. A greenhouse needs to be properly heated and insulated in order to be used in the winter.

In order to promote plant growth, heating a greenhouse during the winter requires producing a steady, warmer environment. If plants are not properly protected, they may experience stress or even die when temperatures drop, especially at night. Growers can maintain healthy and productive plants in their greenhouses by controlling the temperature with the help of heating systems.

In the winter months, insulation is yet another essential component of greenhouse management. By retaining heat inside the greenhouse, insulating materials help shield plants from temperature swings that could be harmful. In addition to saving energy, good insulation keeps the environment stable and conducive to crop growth.

Greenhouses can be heated using a variety of techniques. Using heaters that run on gas, electricity, or even renewable energy sources like solar power is one popular strategy. These heaters are capable of effectively raising the greenhouse’s temperature and supplying the warmth required for plant growth. Using geothermal heat is an additional technique that modifies the greenhouse climate by taking advantage of the earth’s stable temperature below the frost line.

Apart from heating systems, adequate insulation is essential for maintaining warmth. Heat is retained inside the greenhouse with the use of insulating materials like double-layered glazing, polycarbonate panels, and bubble wrap. Insulation reduces heat loss through walls, roofs, and even floors, which lowers the amount of energy needed to keep crops at a healthy temperature.

The size of the greenhouse, the local climate, and the kinds of crops being grown are all important considerations when making plans to heat and insulate a greenhouse for cold weather. Growers can optimize their greenhouse’s year-round performance and guarantee a consistent and nutritious crop even in the face of external temperature variations by putting into place efficient heating and insulation techniques.

Greenhouse Type	Insulation Methods
Traditional Glass Greenhouse	Double-layered polyethylene film
Polycarbonate Greenhouse	Bubble wrap insulation

How to warm a greenhouse from polycarbonate methods of insulation, stages of work, photo, video

Salutations for the afternoon! I’ve been growing vegetables in my personal plot for the past two years, primarily tomatoes and cucumbers in the early stages. Of course, the desired outcome exists, but its full impact cannot be realized. Please let me know how to insulate a greenhouse and if there are any ways to keep the heat in without having to spend a lot of money on polycarbonate structures.

Almost every gardener who installs a design for growing vegetables early on considers greenhouse insulation. These rooms can be heated in a number of ways, but three primary ones stand out: biological, sunny, and technical.

Compared to other insulation options, the technical method requires a large amount of time and material costs. While the building is being installed, the summer residents consider the solar heating system and attempt to determine the ideal spot for the greenhouse. Less transparent material covers the shaded sides.

Also see: Benefits and drawbacks of solar panels for greenhouses

The oldest and most proven technique for heating greenhouse biological systems. It is predicated on the observation that biological materials (manure, plant products) release copious amounts of heat during the rotting process. Horse manure, for instance, can reach 70 °C in 7–10 days. Up to three months can pass in this room at this temperature. Straw, sawdust, tree bark, and even household trash are frequently used by gardeners as biological fuel.

The straw is broken up into small pieces and layered with superphosphate and lime-ammonium nitrate in a ratio of 10:2:0.3 kg. After completion, the "pillow" needs to be compacted and watered with hot water. When Garden Earth is spread out over biofuel, it should be at least 30 cm high.

For the private sector, biological fuel is thought to be the most straightforward and unnecessary method of heating greenhouses.

Options for using insulation for the foundation

If you apply a specific protective screen to the outer half or quarter of a brick, you can use dense material to shield polystyrene. He’ll keep little rodents away from the insulation with consistency.

A further useful technique is foam glass. The material performs remarkably well as insulation and has outstanding moisture resistance. What makes it unique is that he has no fear at all of rodents, which are a common source of trouble for country house owners and vacationers. One disadvantage that experts point out is the high cost.

You can attach a block from the south side of the house to the greenhouse to create more favorable conditions inside. Placing a greenhouse between stable, stationary walls is another workable option (as long as the main construction’s design permits this placement).

The second layer of thermal insulation

The second film layer is installed to provide warming insulation that works effectively. Film made of polyethylene is the least expensive material. Present-day marketplaces provide a stabilized film with strong wear, elasticity, and frost resistance indicators.

It has a high throughput of oxygen and UV radiation; Its light-scattering property is crucial for greenhouse crops; stable in the face of dust accumulation. Producers of film goods promise a seven-year service life for a film coating (richel re film)! There was not a single well-known movie from the past that featured this time of operation.

The greenhouse owners can’t help but be pleased with the quality of the new generation materials.

The best material for greenhouse structure insulation is ethylene-acetate copolymer film, which is particularly strong and has a light-to-darkness ratio of 92%.

Different techniques for sealing glass include: a) using sealing mastic; b) lawless glazing; c) using the seal; g) attaching the glass to the taurus section’s swings; d) attaching the glass to a wooden scab using putty; E: the glass connection made with a Klyammer; Glass, SPRARS, and Klyammers are the first three. 4-sealing putty, mastic, or seal; 6-Pin; 5-Klyammer KL-3

Features that define the copolymer film:

• resistance to wind loads and punctures;
• long service life;
• excellent light permeability;
• strength;
• frost resistance;
• elasticity;
• antistatic properties (dust repulsion);
• hydrophilic surface (condensate rolling);
• energy saving up to 40%.

A basic framework made of wire, metal, or plastic pipes is put inside the greenhouse (which is at hand). There should be a 5 cm indentation on the frame structure from the greenhouse’s main walls. Heat loss is cut in half by the air cushion that sits between the walls of the main frame and the auxiliary frame. Only when tightness is noted at the film’s connection and fastening points can significant energy conservation be assured; silicone and polyurethane sealants, as well as special clip locks made by Richel, have been developed for this purpose.

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Complex and more effective methods of warming greenhouses and greenhouses

In areas with severe winters, harvesting during the cold season requires the use of more efficient green-warming techniques. These techniques include building the foundation and heating the water, gas, and electricity, among others.

Foundation as a method of warming warming

We advise building the foundation beneath the greenhouse if your initial plans are to use it during the winter.

You can lay the foundation for the greenhouse before you install the actual structure. It will help keep the interior temperature stable and keep rodents out if it is organized properly. A depth of 50 cm is more than sufficient to guarantee excellent protection against freezing.

However, it’s crucial to ascertain the soil’s freezing point before adding insulation to a polycarbonate greenhouse through the foundation.

A strip foundation made of one of the following materials serves as the base:

It is advised to reinforce the concrete foundation created by formwork with iron rods. It is preferable to place a layer of sand underneath it rather than using traditional drainage. In order to reduce heat loss, a vestibule may be included in the design if the major portion of the structure is formed independently.

Heating of greenhouses with a stove

Additional heating is required in order to use the greenhouse for the entire year. You can use a small stove or kerosene furnace for autonomous heating to accomplish this.

It is advised that the stove be installed in the final section of the building, and the chimney is constructed horizontally. Brick masonry or metal pipes can be used for this purpose. It is crucial to remember to install a riser where the chimney meets the vertical stove riser.

It makes sense to connect the greenhouse to the central heating system if it is close to the house.

Water warming of greenhouses

Enhancing stove heating is a great way to use water heating in greenhouses. How would one go about doing that? The stove must have a water heating boiler installed, and pipes must be drawn from it to a water tank.

The pipes must then be looped, and wiring must naturally be installed around the structure’s perimeter. The greenhouse will heat up uniformly as a result.

Electric heater for greenhouses

An electric cable buried beneath a layer of earth allows you to heat the greenhouse using the same warm floor concept. Heating of this kind occurs from below. Moreover, electricity will be used to heat the greenhouse using infrared heaters, which are typically installed in the ceiling.

Good wire insulation is crucial when designing electric heating systems because, in the event of a subpar isolated wire, condensation or water may cause the network to close.

Gas burner insulation with gas burners

Installing a system of gas burners throughout the greenhouse’s construction could be an alternate method of heating it. Burners with gas cylinders are sufficient to heat a small greenhouse; however, the gas heating system must be connected to the home’s gasification system in order to heat a large greenhouse.

These systems are helpful because they generate carbon dioxide, which plants require, in addition to their obvious heating function. You can use fans to help distribute heat and gas throughout the greenhouse in an even manner.

The simplest ways to warm the greenhouse

It makes sense to use glass, polycarbonate, or any other cold-resistant material to warm the greenhouse. Such a greenhouse can be insulated both by yourself and with the assistance of experts. This can be accomplished by using straightforward insulation techniques either during the greenhouse’s construction or during its operation.

Simple methods of warming greening are different in:

• efficiency;
• value;
• speed speed.

In any event, the structure’s hermeticization is the most crucial aspect of insulation. This is because the majority of heat escapes through exact holes, cracks, and joints.

Silicone sealant is what we advise using to seal the greenhouse. Such a sealant is fairly expensive, but since it is long-lasting and extremely effective, the cost will be justified.

Adhesive tape is a less expensive greenhouse sealing tool. Although this method is less efficient, it still happens and, more importantly, successfully completes the task given to it. You can use construction tape alone to seal the greenhouse; paint or stationery are not appropriate.

Only after you place the cameras’ holes on the cut will the greenhouse be fully sealed.

There are two ways to go about this:

1. Install the P-shaped polymer profile on the edge.
2. Use a viscous sealant or construction mastic, which will need to smear the edges.

A crucial detail to remember is to avoid damaging the materials used to construct the greenhouse when heating it. It is advised to use screws that are smaller than the holes in them and to avoid drilling right at the edge itself.

If you live in an area where the air temperature does not drop below +5 degrees, these insulation techniques are sufficient for growing plants in a greenhouse during the winter. You will need to use more efficient greenhouse warming techniques if the winters in your area are harsher.

Other types of heating

Greenhouse heating using the current home system

If there is no need to install additional equipment and the distance between the house and the greenhouse is less than 10 meters, this heating option can be advantageous. The only thing it will need to do is warm the pipes that lead from the house to the greenhouse. Well, maybe. Heating the greenhouse at night will also help to slightly lower the house’s temperature.

Gas heating circuit using gas.

If there is a gas pipeline, gas heating for Greek homes is feasible. If not, a liquefied gas tank installation is required. Gas cylinders can be used as long as the heating process doesn’t take longer than a few weeks. Given that gas heating is dangerous, you will also need to decide where to install the forced ventilation system.

Electric heaters that are stationary

In addition to being inconvenient, this heating method is highly costly. The installation of the ventilation system will also be necessary for the room’s heat distribution. Because point electric heaters can melt from overheating, this type of heating is dangerous.

Radiation with infrared heating (IR)

Greenhouse lighting IR IR ACTION device.

1. The heating of the greenhouses in the spring period with the help of heat IR cables laid in a concrete base around the beds is widely widespread, which allows you to insulate the base of the bed and the soil in it. As a disadvantage, possible problems should be noted in the event of a break in the heat cable.
2. Point IR heaters can be strengthened on walls or ceiling. They provide the required microclimate, do not dry air, they do not need ventilation. IR radiation, like natural sun rays, is useful for both plants and humans.
3. The safest and most effective heating is heating using IR film heater. Their main advantage, except for the economical consumption of electricity, is the ability to adjust the temperature regime using thermostat. If there is a calculation of the temperature regime of the greenhouse, then with the help of programmable thermal controllers, you can control the temperature in the room during the day. The heat obtained from the film IC heater can be stored in the items in the room for 5-6 hours.

In order to prepare a component layer of any biomass into which the chopped straw and seed husk are added for loosening, additional heating can be obtained in a manner similar to that which was utilized in ancient Egypt for raising chickens. There is a layer of earth covering this mass.

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The design of the winter greenhouse

The needs for the design are region-specific in many ways. A polycarbonate greenhouse cannot be insulated in regions with a mildly warm climate, where winter lows are infrequent. Instead, temporary heating sources can be installed and used as needed. Because of its internal cavities, polycarbonate retains heat well. When heated in a single day, the greenhouse does not have enough time to cool down to the temperatures required for plant growth.

The cellular polycarbonate’s thermal insulation properties

Crucial! Special plugs must be used to seal the ends of polycarbonate in order to maintain its thermal insulation qualities. This will prevent the cells from being exposed to cold air.

Plugs made of polycarbonate

It is necessary to provide the greenhouse with a continuous heating source in regions where the moderate and cold temperatures of polycarbonate’s thermal insulation qualities are insufficient. In addition, several modifications must be made to the standard greenhouse’s design in order to enhance its thermal insulation qualities.

The greenhouse is heated with a gas burner.

Insulation from cold winds

This is accomplished by orienting the greenhouse to face southward, erecting a capital wall from its northernmost point, and—best of all—building a brick vestibule out of blocks or wood. The vestibule serves as the greenhouse’s entrance, and the southern end wall is continuous. You can prevent the greenhouse’s air from entering through the gaps in the doors and windows by using the vestibule device. It also functions as a thermal curtain, preventing a stream of cold air from damaging plants when doors are opened.

The greenhouse’s wall that is insulated

The heating apparatus, including the boiler and stove, can be marked in the vestibule. Simultaneously, the chimney is extracted through the northern wall, and polycarbonate will be sealed off from any sparks that may fly and from the hot chimney pipes. An electrical panel is installed in the vestibule when using electricity for heating. The vestibule can also serve as a pantry.

Foundation and insulation of the blind area

The greenhouse is set up on a concrete or block strip foundation, with a heated blind area encircling it. By doing this, the greenhouse’s soil will be kept from freezing.

This is how the blind area is completed.

1. Remove the sod around the foundation for a width of 50 cm and perform the formwork from the boards.
2. Fall asleep with the leveling layer of sand.
3. Put the insulation – polystyrene.
4. Pour the blind area with concrete on a reinforcing grid or laid out the paving stones on a layer of sand.

Plan for insulating the blind region

Soil insulation

You can separate the greenhouse’s productive layer from the colder underlying layers thanks to the insulation provided by the soil below. Heating will be more efficient and less expensive at the same time.

Well-liked method of warming soil.

Heating system for greenhouse beds

Step 1: At the location of the future beds, dig a foundation pit that is at least 60 cm deep. Fill the pit with sand that is 5 cm thick.

Step 2: Place the heater slabs in the joints, combining the grooves.

Step 3: The plates are covered with a layer of expanded clay that is roughly 10 cm thick. In addition to serving as drainage, he shields the polystyrene from harm when digging.

Step 4: Either a warm bed is prepared or fertile soil is spread on top.

Take note! The bottom of the greenhouse can be constructed of foam concrete, brick, or wood for efficient thermal insulation, especially in colder climates with a lot of snowfall.

The greenhouse’s base, made of blocks

Disinfection

Both pests and fungal spores can survive the winter in the telitsa with perfect ease. The intricacies of the building may serve as their haven in addition to the earth. For this reason, thorough disinfection is necessary.

Soil processing

Expert gardeners recommend three tried-and-true methods for disinfecting soil: fumigation with sulfur, chlorine treatment, and special solution spraying. With the use of deep rakes, chlorine lime is dispersed throughout the garden and onto the ground. Sulfur and kerosene are combined and burned in the far corner, in the direction of the exit, to perform fumigation. The greenhouse closes for a few days after that.

Checkers for sulfur can also be used. Sulfur glorifying should only be done on tall buildings without metallic frames because metal corrosion can lead to evaporation. A sprayable solution of distilled copper sulfate, water formalin, lime (4%), and Creolin (2%) works well.

Frame and coating

All areas of the greenhouse, including the soil, are disinfected during the sulfuric treatment process. Depending on the material used to make them, the frames go through different processes. After painting with enamel, metal is cleaned in boiling water with vinegar added. A vinegar solution can also be used to treat polykhlorvinille, but it must be heated to no more than 60 ° C. It is advised to use a 10% solution of copper sulfate for wooden frames.

The material also affects coating processing. After being cleaned with soapy water and disinfected with copper sulfate, polyethylene film is dried. Another method for processing glass is to use boiling water and a soap piece with a high alkali content. Active alkali cannot be used to treat polycarbonate. Using a very hot potassium permanganate solution is advised.

It’s critical to completely rinse any hard-to-reach areas where pest larvae or infections could be hiding. The greenhouse needs to be dried and ventilated after disinfection.

Sowing useful plants

Siderates are planted in the fall to improve the structure of the ground, disinfect the soil and its fertilizers. You can use fatselia, Vika, and white mustard. While some gardeners prefer to chop plants and cover with soil for the winter, the grown siderates are left exposed without being covered in soil.

Insulation of the frame

The greenhouse’s frame can be further cascaded to enable the receipt of a crop during the winter. It is appropriate to apply an extra coating layer from the inside.

You can erect a shelter from the greenhouse’s exterior during the winter. The following methods strengthen the frame:

• Tightening the frame with plastic wrap. The material is attached to the profiles of the frame, and as a result, an air gap is formed between it and polycarbonate, which serves as protection from the cold.
• Installation on profiles of additional sheets of polycarbonate. As in the first case, an air barrier is formed between the two layers. The choice of this method provides for additional backlight.
• Installation of polystyrene plates outside. Suitable for single -sloping and gable structures. The sheets of the material are laid on the walls, the seams are filled with foam, the entire structure is tightened with a film and for reliability with rope dugs. Such insulation is done only on one side of the greenhouse. But inside you need to mount the backlight for plants.

Polycarbonate as a glass substitute

Nowadays, the most popular method of setting up a greenhouse is building one out of polycarbonate. Compared to glass, this material is substantially stronger and lighter. Its strength is adequate to support loads from the wind or snow. Greenhouses have a lot of sailing and a fairly intricate strength calculation.

When treated with specific varnishes, polycarbonate becomes opaque to ultraviolet solar radiation, which is harmful to people and plants, making it a better material than glass at reflecting sunlight. It has excellent sound insulation, is shielded from harsh media, and has been in use for more than 20 years. It can also tolerate harsh northern frosts and intense summer heat.

Polycarbonate system of fastening.

Cutting and drilling this material is simple. Although polycarbonate is a good heat insulator on its own, it might need to be layered with an air gap between layers in order to provide consistent thermal insulation. Currently, cellular (cellular) polycarbonate is used to increase thermal insulation properties. It is possible to give this kind of polycarbonate a circular shape.

Polycarbonate has certain drawbacks, such as melting and dripping in the form of drops even though it doesn’t light up when exposed to high temperatures.

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Place under the greenhouse

The first step in building a greenhouse is to carefully select a location; this will increase heat conservation and lower heating expenses. The sun’s lighting is the primary subtlety in this picture. A good location is one that allows light and heat to freely enter.

East to west is the ideal order of placement. In this scenario, the building will start to warm up and become fully illuminated on the east side.

It is best to position the structure where it will be shielded from the wind. For instance, you could attach one side of the structure closer to a house or other building so that the wind won’t stick out and cool it. The greenhouse needs to be positioned by the end rather than along a high fence or near trees. Make sure to take into account the site’s predominant wind direction. Placing the structure near a winter garden type would be a great idea. It should be between two stationary walls, but far enough away that they don’t block the sun.

The sun should shine on the location from dawn until dusk. Its orientation is irrelevant if the greenhouse is used, which is anticipated to begin in the spring. Structures should be positioned in the northern areas with the skate direction running from east to west (latitude focused); in the middle lane, the long side should be oriented by meridian from north to south.

Various types of biofuels

Diagram showing the greenhouse’s interior heating.

When the manure first starts to decompose, it reaches its highest temperature. The manure absorbs about half of the heat during the first two weeks, and the thermal effect continues for the next two months. The ideal biofuel is produced by combining straw and horse dung in a 1:1 ratio. Manure also heats up rapidly at the same time, reaching 70 °C after a week.

The temperature stays at this level for roughly seven days before dropping to 20 to 30 °C and staying that way for roughly two months. Biofuel is removed from a greenhouse at the conclusion of the growing season and applied as fertilizer.

Different kinds of biofuels yield different thermal indicators.

Guidelines for soil temperature and biofuel efficacy:

• cow manure holds 12-20 degrees of heat for 100 days;
• Horse manure supports 33-38 degrees of heat from 70 to 90 days;
• Pork manure of 14-16 degrees of heat holds 70 days;
• sawdust give 20 degrees of heat for 14 days;
• The rotten bark warms up soil up to 20-25 degrees (120 days).

A table outlining how much biofuel greenhouses must produce.

Straw can be used to warm the greenhouse. Here, the temperature is quickly raised to 45 degrees. She falls, though, just as fast. This is a handy way to warm up in an emergency. Additionally, Terrence foliage has this effect.

The schedule for the acceptable mixing of various kinds of biofuels:

• straw and manure;
• manure, sawdust and bark;
• sawdust and bark.

Not to be overlooked when heating biofuels is:

• air free access;
• plus temperature;
• Air humidity (65-70%);
• nitrogen fertilizers for a successful "launch" of the process.

It should be mentioned that adding steadfast lime or irrigating biofuel with hot water will produce the necessary temperature range.

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Infrared heaters

High-efficiency infrared heaters are quite popular these days.

The main function of these systems is to heat the soil, which is crucial during the winter. The earth (crucial!), the walls, the racks, the plants themselves, and everything else in the greenhouse are exposed to heat instead of the air.

Moreover, the amount of electricity used is cut in half compared to electric heating. High power ceramic infrared emitter heating systems are economically viable. To reduce heat loss, it is advised that these heaters be placed all the way around the greenhouse’s framework.

It is advised that heaters be placed all the way around the greenhouse’s framework.

Infrared lamps with a standard base are used for small greenhouses, which makes this type of heating much easier to install and operate. It is quite easy for someone without any experience in the electric power industry to install lamps.

The benefits of using infrared heaters

• uniform heating of the entire greenhouse,
• The air is not overdried, and the humidity indicator remains at a constant level,
• suppression of the growth of bacteria and pathogenic viruses,
• slow warmth of heat from the bottom up,
• beneficial effects on the growth of greenhouse plants,
• Silent work of the heater.

Easily adjustable, the height of the heating heaters is determined by the required soil temperature. For instance, heaters for recently planted seedlings should be lowered to the soil, and lamps should rise in tandem with plant growth.

You can determine the appropriate number of heating elements and the intensity of the infrared system using a 3 by 6 meter greenhouse as an example. Two 1.7-meter-long infrared heaters will be needed for this kind of greenhouse because each lamp’s heating zone is 2.5 by 3 meters. Such a heating system will have a power of about 1350 watts.

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Biological heating of the soil

Many kinds of biological fuel can be used to heat greenhouses and greenhouse structures. For the task at hand, you will require:

The plan for heating the soil in the greenhouse through biological means.

Horse manure is the most widely used biological fuel because it produces the most heat. But use manure from sheep, cows, and pork. It is combined with compost, bark, wood sawdust, leaves, household waste, and straw to enhance heat transfer. Peat lengthens the combustion period and lowers the temperature of combustion when added to the mixture.

Harvesting manure for a greenhouse occurs in the fall. It is thinly spread out in the summer to allow it to dry, and then it is stacked once it has dried. Simultaneously, the manure is covered with straw and well compacted to prevent premature warming.

The manure is moved into a loose, high pile with a pitchfork one week prior to being laid in a greenhouse so it can self-heat. Two bummers over a heap are signaled by the beginning of a biofuel heating. Manure is irrigated with water or dung slings for a thorough warming up prior to being packed into the greenhouse.

Dig a pit of 1.5 m wide under a greenhouse, 0.5-0.6 m deep and 1-2 m long, where biofuel is laid. From the outer parts of the heaps, cold manure is laid to the bottom, and hot – closer to the surface of the pit. The thickness of the dung layer with a late stuffing of a greenhouse (in March) is made 30-40 cm, and with early stuffing (in February)-50-60 cm. Brown manure is compacted to the top, the foundation pit is covered with frames on top and given to settle for 2-3 days. To prevent the growth of mushrooms, manure must be sprinkled with lime, and then lay garden land for plant growing.

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Foundation

The foundation, or base of the structure, is crucial to preserving interior heat.

Polycarbonate greenhouse vendors assert that their product is lightweight and doesn’t need a foundation, as it can function as either soil or a beam. However, the owner needs a sturdy insulated basis if he wants his greenhouse to efficiently retain heat.

The insulation of the base

There are two areas where the greenhouse’s base is heated:

• warm foundation;
• Thermal insulation of the soil.

Since the location cannot be precisely aligned, a small space must be created between the greenhouse’s covering and the soil if it is placed without a foundation. The ground not only absorbs heat at night but also releases it during the day, causing the building to cool more quickly. This can be avoided with a concrete or wood foundation. Thus, the most widely used materials were:

• Concrete – a strip of concrete is poured, which is covered with foam from below and on the sides;
• Brill – greenhouse is installed on the bars with a large section.

Creation and filling of a concrete foundation

The platform of the tape concrete base around the outside will shield the interior from the medium’s influence and improve the structure’s overall resistance to frost. The amount of soil that freezes determines the base’s depth; typically, 50 to 60 cm is sufficient. At the following stages, you can build the foundation by hand:

• Marking angles, froze diagonal;
• The embroidery is mounted – this is a wooden structure with fishing lines to determine the external and internal boundaries of the base;
• The soil is removed to the desired depth (at least to the depth of freezing);
• A pillow made of sand is made at the bottom, and best of all of a few layers – for example, sand or gravel. The layer will protect against deformation and create additional isolation. A great solution would be to fill up the layers on a waterproofing film, which is superimposed on the bottom and walls of the pit.

Prepare the formwork; the trench is ready. This is a straightforward shield and board design made of wood. The intended thickness of the foundation determines its height. It will be more convenient to level and trim the concrete mixture if they are equal. Reinforcement is the next phase. It is made of iron and steel rods that are evenly spaced or formed into a reinforced mesh to achieve high strength. Its components are welded together to form a sturdy structure or joined together with knitting wire.

Black and alignment

One kneads concrete. This mixture works well: one part cement, two parts sand, and four parts gravel. Water volume should generally be half that of cement volume. Concrete shouldn’t be overly liquid or extremely thick. Light concrete is suitable for use in greenhouses. The formwork is filled with an even layer of concrete mixture.

After the solution has solidified, it will be simpler to remove if the surface was coated with water-based paint or lubricated, say, with used machine oil. The solution is never saved "for later"; all concrete must be used immediately.

In addition to being smooth, concrete can be trimmed with a handle-equipped board or a specialized vibrating tool. In order to release the trapped air, metal pins are inserted into the mixture.

In order to further waterproof the foundation, roofing material may be applied from the inside as well as the outside, creating a 20–25 cm visor. In order to provide additional protection from the elements, a 40 cm thick layer of sand is placed inside the foam around the perimeter of the foundation.

Warming the basis of polystyrene foam

Making a warm base for foam design with your hands is even simpler. This is an inexpensive and reasonably priced material that can sustain heat. Remember that a foundation like this won’t last very long; a concrete base is far more durable and high-quality.

It is best to pack it in polyethylene before laying to prevent deterioration. Mice adore this material; instead of eating it, they dig burrows and make their homes there. You can build a quarter- or half-inch brick perimeter around such a foundation to protect it. An excellent foam substitute is a foam glass, which is more costly but resistant to moisture and rodents.

Supervision of a greenhouse from the inside

This event is typically hosted inside the building. A specific film for thermal insulation will be needed to insulate the greenhouse. The interior walls of the greenhouse are adhered to using this substance. The film should be foil, and in certain cases even double, if you intend to build this structure in an area with a fairly severe climate. It is only necessary to "wrap" everything completely during the winter. Owing to a strong reflective effect, the greenhouse will maintain the necessary temperature even during frosts.

By using thermal insulation, the necessary levels of moisture and carbon dioxide will be maintained inside the structure in addition to heat.

Scheme for dressing insulation.

The quantity and overall health of your crop will benefit from all of this. In the spring and summer, they only use this option in a point-by-point manner because the foil will only be required to reflect sunlight in the parts of the greenhouse that they are unable to reach naturally.

In order to achieve the planned, it is sometimes necessary to combine several methods at once. So, for example, the use of the technical variant in conjunction with biological. The latter is that horse manure is used as a heating element. He is able to heat the soil to the highest indicators, so for starters the top soil layer is removed (or you can simply dig a hole in the territory that is allocated for sowing) or special roomy racks are prepared. The resulting deepening or the racks themselves are filled with manure no more than a third of the depth, after which the remaining space is covered with earth. Decomposing, horse manure will perfectly cope with heating several layers of soil. If you do not have horse manure, then another option involves introducing compost to the soil. The best option involves mixing compost with manure and adding it to the soil. This mixture will not only maintain the necessary temperature, but also enrich the soil with the necessary trace elements, vitamins and minerals.

Installing a warm battery in the greenhouse is a simple additional method of keeping it warm. However, you don’t need to be afraid because you don’t need to know anything about physics to do this. It is sufficient to simply place a specific quantity of plastic water bottles inside a greenhouse. Because of their transparency, the water within will warm up rapidly and cool down more slowly (greenhouse effect). The basic water-filled barrel functions in the same manner.

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Insulation of the base of the greenhouse

Let"s use a greenhouse with a size of 3×4 m. 1. Patch marking. Of course, the location of the new building should be based on the cardinal points. It is necessary to exclude the hit of the shadows from trees or buildings on the greenhouse.
2. Removing the upper fertile layer of soil and depositing it for the time being.Greenhouse insulation scheme
3. Preparation of the pit for the foundation. It will be a “trough” with a depth of no more than 50 cm. Nevertheless, in general, you will choose about 5-6 m³ of soil, so the methods of its use on the site must be considered in advance. 4. When the preparation of the pit is completed, we begin work to create the foundation. At this stage, you can use the technology, or make a classic. To do this, pour clean sand into the pit and evenly level it. This cannot be limited. It should be carefully (preferably by sprinkling to avoid erosion of the sand layer) shed sand and additionally tamp it. Wooden log for this is the best suite. The thickness of the sand layer after the tamping should be at least 5 cm.
5. Along the perimeter of the pit, we perform the formwork for filling the concrete mixture. The width of the bar of the strip foundation is about 15 cm. In the given scheme, it was blurred as a "base of the greenhouse". Penopropliex 6. After pouring and hardening concrete, we move directly to thermal insulation work. You, of course, can use any material, but, based on personal experience, I would recommend using the materials of the fenoplyx brand. What can I say about his positive qualities:

• It is produced by sheets of different thicknesses, but to warm the foundation of the greenhouse, stoves with a thickness of 50 mm are suitable. And this will be quite enough: from the point of view of heat -resistant, the foam -polex plate 5 cm thick is close to a brick silicate wall with a thickness of a little less than 1 m. Really – feel the difference;
• Light plates of extruded polystyrene foam have a M-shaped edge, they are conveniently attached to each other, forming an inextricable heat-insulating layer when laying on a rammed sand.

How much is thermal insulation for the people?

What is the price of this kind of thermal insulation? You recall that we are "constructing" a 3 by 4 m greenhouse. In light of this, the base area will be roughly 11 m² (minus the strip foundation). The perimeter will also leave roughly 14 meters. Count:

• Typically, foamedex is sold in the package: eight plates in size 120x60x5 cm (it is not difficult to calculate that they will be enough for insulation 5.75 m²);
• each packaging costs approximately 1,400 rubles.;
• For insulation of the base, two packages will be required and the same for insulation of the sidewalls.

Overall

Simple ways how to insulate the greenhouse for the winter

All year round, cultivated plants are grown in polycarbonate greenhouses.

You can use easy techniques if the task for the summer resident is to manually warm a polycarbonate greenhouse rather than preheating it before planting crops. They have the same effect whether they are used during operation or at the beginning of construction. Additionally, they vary in:

• the cost of investments;
• efficiency;
• speed speed.

The critical sealing moment is the most crucial because joints, cracks, and holes allow the majority of heat to escape. Silicone sealant works best in this situation for cellular polycarbonate. Although it is expensive, the costs are justified when considering the product’s effectiveness and lifespan. Tape clotting works best in building contexts (not in painting or stationery). "Systems and Heating Projects" is an interesting article.

When warming the greenhouse, it’s crucial to seal the camera holes on the cut in addition to the joints. Two methods exist for doing this.

According to the first, a P-shaped polymer profile must be installed on the edge. If not, you can apply a viscous sealant, which requires smearing the edges, or construction mastic. This will help to partially resolve the issue of how to winterize the greenhouse’s insulation. If the outside temperature in the winter does not drop below +5, then this method will suffice. If not, you’ll need to use more efficient techniques.

Be careful not to contaminate the source material when warming with a second polycarbonate layer. To avoid crushing it, it is preferable not to drill right at the edge. Instead, use self-tapping screws (with thermo-mushrooms) that are smaller in diameter than the hole intended for them to securely fasten it.

You cannot survive the winter without a heating system.

If the task is how to insulate the earth in the greenhouse before sowing, then you can resort to the use of organic and inorganic fertilizers. For this purpose, compost that does not contain plastic residues, as well as horse manure mixed with straw, is ideal. You should not use hay for this, as you can infect the earth with cereal weeds. As an alternative it is better to use sawdust. The mixture is poured with a layer up to 40 cm. To prevent the development of bacteria and fungi, it is worth using negative lime with a flow rate of up to 300 g/m. sq. It is impossible to plant plants in such a nuclear mixture, so after heating the compost is covered with a layer of earth.

Under the soil layer, instead of compost, you can lay a special insulation for greenhouses, wrapped in agriculture. Most often it resembles glass wool and acts as a isolator. To reduce heat loss through a polymer canvas, you can lay it in 2 layers with an air gap between them or used in the lower part, the most susceptible to cold, foam. Its sheets can be fixed in a pre -prepared frame. It is not necessary to lay them around the entire perimeter. It is enough to protect the windy and coldest sides, for example, the northern. A similar method is quite appropriate if the task is: how to insulate a greenhouse from the film.

Electrical heating boiler automation of today consists of an electronic device that requires a network connection to function.

You can find comprehensive directions and a video on how to build an electric boiler for heating on your own.

Thermal insulation of the soil

This choice is among those that will contribute to keeping the greenhouse room as warm as possible. It consists of installing a strip foundation underneath the building.

Noteworthy: Because of this, the soil beneath the greenhouse won’t freeze, and if the soil continues to warm biologically, the greenhouse will always be warm.

Additionally, if you exclude the money used for foundation construction, it is entirely free. However, installing a greenhouse requires setting up the foundation for polycarbonate insulation, so it is not appropriate for people who already have a building that is used for greenhouse operations. However, you can reinstall the greenhouse prior to the season beginning if you so choose.

Heating of the greenhouse

The location of the structure on the property and the summer resident’s financial situation determine which approach is used. The cost of maintaining the internal temperature as well as the purchase of consumables are included in the price.

The following methods of heating are employed:

• Water. The most time -consuming way, requiring the installation on the floor of the greenhouse of a concrete base in which the pipes are laid. Beneficial if it is possible to connect greenhouse pipes to heating the house. The installation of water heating requires the involvement of builders.
• Infrared. On the frame of the greenhouses, emitters are installed that create different temperature zones for plants. Uniform heating is obtained by installing heaters around the perimeter. The height of the installation is changed as the planted crops grow.
• Solid fuel. In the greenhouse, a stove operating on coal, firewood, saw bributes, etc. is installed.P. The lack of a method is an uneven distribution of heat and the need to install a chimney.

The greenhouse’s warming process is an easy one that you can handle on your own. More shelters will result in a larger crop and more use of the greenhouse during the winter.

Vegetables can be grown there even in the winter thanks to the installation of heating.

In cold weather, effectively warming a greenhouse for growing crops is essential for maintaining optimal growing conditions. By insulating the greenhouse, you can retain heat and protect plants from freezing temperatures. Using methods like installing double-layered or inflated plastic coverings, adding thermal mass like water barrels or stones, and utilizing greenhouse heaters or heat mats, you can create a stable and warmer environment. Proper ventilation is also crucial to regulate temperature and humidity levels, preventing overheating during sunny days. Additionally, utilizing passive solar heating by orienting the greenhouse towards the sun and using reflective materials can optimize warmth. With these strategies, you can extend the growing season and ensure healthier plants even when it"s cold outside.

Emergency insulation of the structure

Summertime dwellers frequently find themselves in need of quickly warming up the greenhouse. This could happen, for instance, if there is a sudden drop in temperature or if the structure sustains mechanical damage that makes the interior excessively cold. The budget and available resources are taken into consideration when selecting emergency heating techniques, which are frequently paired with more labor.

Insulate the greenhouse immediately.

For instance, quick insulation can be done in addition to disinfection; various techniques, such as sulfuric fumigation, are employed for the final step. Because of the high humidity and high temperature, this process enables you to get rid of the fungus and dangerous microorganisms that have started to grow in the soil and on the walls. A sulfur checker for a polycarbonate greenhouse is bought for this purpose; one item is sufficient for 20 cubic meters of space. It is possible to combine the insulation process with burning, without causing harm to the plants.

The actual process of emergency heating is as follows:

• The dome of the greenhouse needs to be covered with roller material: it can be a film with a foil surface, tarpaulin, roofing material, dense polyethylene.
• On the outside, you need to perform sandy. It is made around the perimeter of the entire foundation, a fuel-opial mixture can be added to it.
• Polysplane panels are installed along the length of the basement. To protect them from the appearance of condensate, it is recommended to wrap the sheets in geotextiles or other material with a non -woven base.
• The entrance will need to be equipped with a home -made vestibule: for this it needs to be curtained with plastic film. If it is not, a tarp is suitable. In the same way, you need to close holes that serve to ventilate.
• Barrels containing humus with an admixture of shavings are installed inside the greenhouse. The containers should be filled with ѕ. Gradual decomposition of organics will increase atmospheric temperature.
• To accelerate the process, you can put inside a portable heater operating on gas fuel. It is enough to turn it on for 1-1.5 hours so that the temperature rises to the desired level.

In the event of an unexpected frost, emergency heating will help preserve seedlings and shield the seeds—for which the structure was not originally intended.

It is advised that the polycarbonate greenhouse be constructed during the initial stages of construction. If, following construction, it is discovered that the interior air is cold or that the soil could freeze, gaps must be sealed and an active and biological heating system must be set up. The structure will be as protected from heat loss as possible by competent actions.

In the video, the winter greenhouse’s insulation is shown.

Active heating

Biological heating

The primary distinction between the two greenhouses is the heating system: if the greenhouse’s air temperature rises solely as a result of sunlight exposure, then additional heating of the greenhouse is required. Naturally, the biological heating that is the least expensive, most accessible, and most eco-friendly will be.

When deciding how to heat the greenhouse, consider organic biofuel first.

In order to preserve biofuel and uphold the ideal soil temperature, both of which are crucial for the healthy growth of seedlings, I make use of the so-called warm beds. They are created very simply:

The order in which layers are laid

1. On the site, which is planned to be used to grow the first seedlings or seedlings, I take out the soil to a depth of about 0.8 – 1 m.
2. The bottom of the recess falls asleep with clay drainage.
3. Next, I put about 0.5 m of organics: wooden decks, thick branches, waste paper, old books, etc. are suitable.D.Our task is to form a dense layer that will be very slowly redundant.
4. Then I lay about 20 cm of crushed branches, hay, leaves and sawdust.

These beds produce heat on their own.

1. The next layer is biofuel, which will be the main source of heat. I mix compost and manure with sawdust, moisturize and lay in a recess in a layer of about 20 cm.
2. I cover a rotting organic with a chernozem or a mixture of meadow soil and peat on top. I select the thickness of the layer in such a way as to form a bed raised above the ground.

The biological heating process is incredibly straightforward:

1. Under the influence of moisture, organic substances in the lower layers of the soil mixes begin to decompose.
2. When decomposed by organics, thermal energy is released.
3. Heat rises from the bottom up, gradually warming the soil located above the humus and entering the roots of young plants directly.

Option for a warm arrangement

Using heating devices

One disadvantage of biological heating is that, while it primarily heats the soil, the air inside the greenhouse cools to dangerous levels during the winter. For this reason, you cannot forgo additional heating if you wish to outfit a polycarbonate greenhouse for the winter.

Even the most basic stove can help you survive any frosts.

Different heating schemes are currently in use, and each has advantages and disadvantages. The following table allows you to compare them:

Option	Features of implementation
Solid fuel	The easiest way to implement: in the greenhouse, a stove is simply installed in the greenhouse, which we drown with coal, firewood, pellets or other combustible material.

It heats up the air nicely. However, there are two issues:

• fuel needs to be regularly placed;
• heat is distributed unevenly, and therefore it is periodically necessary to ventilate the room in order to avoid overheating.

The equipment itself and the electricity it uses are very expensive.

The cost of the panels themselves is a clear drawback, as they only become profitable with substantial cultivation volumes. Had it not been for this, I never would have experienced the grief after purchasing it for my greenhouse.

At least in my opinion, this is one of the best approaches. Heat loss is reduced while at the same time speeding up the growth of young plants by warming the soil.

Installing hot water pipes to heat the soil

Air heating of the greenhouse

Compared to trenching pipes, the air heating system’s device will require a substantially smaller budget. In this upper section of the structure’s interior, the air duct system is installed. This approach has the advantage of being able to provide ventilation in addition to heating thanks to these pipes. This method’s benefit is the air heating speed. You can increase its temperature to 15-20 °C for 35-40 minutes. In these systems, useful efficiency is at least 99%.

The air ducts are equipped with fans, which guarantee the circulation of air masses and even ventilation throughout the space. The gas boiler or any other furnace running on liquid fuel is connected to the ducts of the ducts in order to provide the heat. A chimney will be necessary in the second scenario in order to remove combustion products. There are fully automated systems available for purchase for the air heating system’s device. You can select the best option for the calculation of a greenhouse under particular conditions with the assistance of experts.

The heater works on the following principle: it raises its temperature by pumping air through itself. The tidal air duct system, which is evenly spaced throughout the greenhouse’s perimeter and constructed of galvanized tin, receives it next. It is essential to allow for the possibility of artificial humidity maintenance when utilizing this heating method. Automated systems will handle it appropriately. The greenhouse must be dependable strengthened for the system’s device.

Go back to the contents table.

Energy -saving screens

Another method of keeping greenhouses warm at night is to conceal them with horizontal systems. Greenhouse structure cooling is inhibited by the aluminum-fabric fabric (Aluminet) thermal screen. The infrared heat that the earth accumulates each day is reflected back into the greenhouse by reflective materials (aluminum has a high heat-reflecting ability). Energy conservation is achieved by reducing heating costs by fifty percent when screens with aluminum elements are used. Since there are only eight hours of daylight in the winter, the greenhouse can be covered with a heat-reflecting screen for sixteen hours.

There are other screens with less energy-saving capacity. For instance, you can save 40% on energy with diffuse or shade (type LS 10) curtains and 30% with film. In a stationary, polyethylene screens are installed.

Under the greenhouse’s roof, separate sections of horizontal curtaining are installed. A special curtaining mechanism is used to bring all sections of the screen into synchronous movement; a cable drive or retransmission is used to accomplish this. Although it is less common, vertical blinding also exists.

Automated hinging systems are appropriate in greenhouse structures of an industrial scale, and for small greenhouses, you can design the screen itself, which will work on the principle of role -playing. The heat -insulating material is attached to the horizontal shaft (pipe made of aluminum) with a drum mechanism and wound into a roll. At the other end of the canvas, fasteners are installed. The shaft with a roll is fixed under the ceiling opposite to the entrance of the wall. As needed, the canvas is unwound under the surface of the greenhouse with an approximate step 1 m. All components of such an energy -saving roller can be found on free sale in any construction store.

Grounding systems of greenhouses in different climate

The region in which the greenhouse is located has a significant impact on the heating system choice. Because it will only be used for a few weeks out of the year and the cost of installation will take some time to pay for itself, installing an expensive heating system with a boiler makes no sense in the south. You cannot survive in the northern regions without continuous heating.

Winter greenhouses in heat climate

In the southern regions, installing electric convectors as a backup heating source in case of frost and building warm beds with a biopodgery suffice.

How to properly prepare biological heating

In a greenhouse like this, solar energy will be the primary source of heat. Warming during the day, the greenhouse’s soil and air gradually cool at night. Warm air is supplied to plants through convectors, which are activated when the minimum acceptable temperature is reached. Because the warm bed is full of organic residues that actively release heat during decomposition, the soil warms up in addition to this.

Installing one of these greenhouses won’t break the bank.

It is crucial to properly install polycarbonate and insulate the north side, particularly in areas with high winds. The greenhouse must have a ventilation system because, even in the winter, the temperature inside can rise significantly in the presence of bright sunlight.

Winter greenhouses in temperate climate

When it comes to warming up a greenhouse in the winter, insulation of the blind area and the installation of heating devices are the only options available in regions with a moderate solar energy climate. Use a firewood stove or another fuel as a low-cost option. Installed either in the vestibule or on the north side of the greenhouse, it uses ducts positioned along the beds or natural convection to heat the entire space. When the street temperature drops in the evening, drown the stove.

Warm beds that use compost or manure as biofuel work well for heating as well. In 5-8 years, a well-constructed warm bed warms the soil and considerably lowers heating expenses. Plant roots don’t get cold; most cultures even experience notable temperature swings.

You can adjust for more heating in the event that the temperature drops below its peak. Because the directional radiation from infrared lamps or heaters warms both the soil’s surface and the plants, they are ideal for heating soil because they allow for low greenhouse objective temperatures. With convectors or heat tents, the air is warm.

Winter greenhouses in cold climate

Wintertime in the cold climate means few daylight hours and little impact from the sun on the greenhouse’s temperature. It needs to be continuously heated. This task is best handled by the water heating circuit that is installed around the greenhouse’s perimeter. It may be made up of radiators or registers linked by pipes. In addition, a warm air curtain is produced along the walls so that the plants are shielded from the greenhouse’s walls from the elements.

How to properly make technical heating

In cold climates, biofuel-based soil heating may not work well because the activity of soil organisms is halted and heat release stops with just one freezing of the beds. An electric cable or heating pipes, which are positioned at the bottom of the beds and fall asleep soil, are used to artificially heat a poet of beds in the winter greenhouses of the northern regions.

Moreover, infrared heaters work better than convectors for quickly heating soil during periods of high frost. You typically don’t need to use them when your water heating system is installed correctly.

The crops you plan to grow will also influence the heating system you choose, in addition to the area. Heat the soil and use backup electric heaters if the winter greenhouse is intended for cold-resistant herbs and greens. Peppers and tomatoes that thrive in the heat require continuous heating as well as extra lighting to create a stable microclimate.

Harden heating solar energy

Traditionally, solar energy is used to heat the greenhouse’s interior. Transparent materials are used to construct greenhouse walls. Radiant energy causes the soil and air in the greenhouse to heat up and cool down at night. This heating is sufficient to heat greenhouses efficiently in the spring and summer.

In autumn and winter, there are fewer sunny days and the sun sets lower in the sky. As a result, sunlight can no longer penetrate as deeply, illuminates the soil at an angle, and causes it to heat up even more.

Take the following actions to improve winter greenhouse solar heating efficiency.

1. Create a slope of greenhouses in the south. This will allow sunlight to be better to illuminate and warm the inner space. Glovy greenhouses to the south
2. Sheathe part of the walls with reflective material. The sun"s rays will be reflected and additionally heat the soil and plants. One of the walls of the greenhouse reflects sunlight
3. Install heat -accumulators in the greenhouse – barrels of water, painted black. During the day the containers will actively heat up, at night – give heat. Heating barrel
4. Installing solar collectors on the roof is a system of pipes located in the insulated case with a transparent lid filled with water and connected to a water heating system. Heating under the influence of the sun, water circulates through pipes and heats the internal space of the greenhouse. solar collector

Both alone and in conjunction with other heating systems, solar heating is employed. Simultaneously, artificial heating expenses are considerably decreased.

Heating of the internal space

There are several ways to heat the interior; we’ll focus on the most popular ones.

• Water heating. Water heating in most structures is implemented due to heating boilers. If the heated greenhouse is small, you can limit yourself to heating appliances on only one side of the room. Convection flows will be enough. The advantage of water heating is that it is safer than electric or gas. It is also worth considering that the specificity of polycarbonate is that it does not tend to collect moisture in the walls in winter on the walls. Thus, moisture will naturally return to the ground.

With good reason, one of the most efficient and profitable heating solutions for greenhouses is water heating.

• Infrared radiation. Of the advantages of infrared heaters, convenience can be distinguished. There is no need to monitor the stove, throw firewood. The air heats up evenly. Infrared heaters do not take up much space, and they are also easy to mount. Cons – the high cost of equipment and installation.
• Gas heating. Special gas equipment is produced, which is designed to work in greenhouses. A significant minus lies in the fact that it should be connected to the general gas supply system, from which it follows that this is necessary for a special resolution. Of course, you can use cylinders, but you can quickly go broke on cylinders. One is missing even for a month.
• Electric heaters. The most ineffective option. An ordinary electric heater is unlikely to cope even with the smallest greenhouse, and the use of more electrical appliances will cause excessive load on the network. And the bill for electricity will be impressive.

It is crucial to take into account aspects that are initially difficult to notice when insulating a structure, in addition to the technical specifications of any future heating systems. This includes, for instance, the location of a future greenhouse’s installation.

It is important to keep in mind that the creation of a good microclimate for future plants should come first when getting a greenhouse ready for winter.

By adhering to all technical regulations and requirements for thermal insulation, you can boost the productivity of the greenhouse by up to 100%. It’s up to each individual how they choose to insulate during the cold months. It is contingent upon both time availability and financial capacity. However, if everything is done properly, a fresh crop can be harvested year-round in the greenhouse.

Watch the next video to learn how to warm the greenhouse.

In conclusion, the key to successful year-round crop cultivation is efficiently heating a greenhouse during cold weather. Growers can optimize plant growth conditions and safeguard their crops from frost and low temperatures by comprehending the critical elements of greenhouse heating and insulation.

Selecting the appropriate heating system is crucial. The required warmth can be achieved with gas or electric heaters, geothermal heating, or even solar-powered solutions. When choosing a heating technique, it’s critical to take sustainability and energy efficiency into account, particularly for long-term greenhouse operations.

The greenhouse’s ability to hold onto heat depends heavily on its insulation. Insulating floors, walls, and even the ceiling properly can cut down on energy use and heat loss by a large margin. Heat can be effectively trapped inside a structure using materials like rigid insulation boards, bubble wrap, or even double-layered polyethylene film.

Furthermore, controlling humidity levels is essential to avoiding mold and condensation, both of which can be harmful to plants. Sufficient ventilation is essential for preserving airflow and managing the humidity levels within the greenhouse.

Finally, it’s imperative to keep an eye on and control temperature variations. Investing in automated systems and temperature sensors can help keep the greenhouse’s interior climate constant, providing ideal growing conditions for plants all year round.

In conclusion, effective heating systems, appropriate insulation, humidity control, and temperature monitoring are all necessary for successful greenhouse warming. Growers can establish a stable and productive crop-growing environment even in cold weather by putting these strategies into practice.

Video on the topic

Warming of the greenhouse from polycarbonate 3*8

Warming of the greenhouse from polycarbonate. Why insulate the greenhouse? Cut off the cold and freezing of the soil.

To get an early crop, you need to additionally warm the greenhouse

DIY winter greenhouse? Thermos is super option!

Warled greenhouse from polycarbonate by cutting off the cold and freezing of the soil after the season.