Warm water floors in a private house – instructions on how to make it yourself

Warm water floors, also known as hydronic radiant heating, are an efficient and comfortable way to heat your home. With these floors, warm water is circulated beneath your feet via a network of pipes as opposed to conventional radiators or forced-air systems. What was the outcome? a soft, even heat that fills your whole living area with comfort and eliminates cold spots.

Although it may seem difficult, building your own warm water floor system is actually easier than you might think. You can install this system in your own home if you have the necessary supplies, equipment, and basic do-it-yourself knowledge. Long-term savings on your heating bills are just one benefit of having a more comfortable home.

We’ll walk you through the process of building your own warm water floor system in this guide. Everything will be covered, including installation and testing as well as planning and preparation. You’ll have an efficient, evenly heated, and cozy home if you follow these instructions. Now, let’s get going!

Design

Installing a water circuit is thought to be an especially advantageous and ideal solution for cottages that have gas boilers. This design is the most efficient because it is the easiest to use and has lower energy costs overall.

Only when the project is professionally completed and the installation is done by professionals can the system operate faultlessly.

As a result, you must first prepare the project before installing water heating in a frame home or in the country. Consider the kind of material that will go into the "pie" and the thickness of each layer as you sketch up the project.

A plan must also be made for the placement of the pipes. The diagram can be drawn on a regular sheet of paper in cells, with each cell representing a step-by-step contour layout.

The step is determined by the region’s climate. In locations with a moderate climate:

• with good thermal insulation in the house – a step 20 cm;
• in the absence of high -quality insulation of walls of brick, concrete or wood – 10 cm;
• In large rooms, in the presence of warm and cold walls – a step is different, in warm walls – it is larger, in cold – less – less.

A warm floor device

The warm water floor’s "pie" is a multi-layered structure that contains a liquid coolant. The central component of the heated floor is a metal or polymer pipe that is used to circulate antifreeze or water. Every layer serves a distinct function and is crucial to the efficient operation of the system as a whole. Consequently, there should be a defined sequence followed during construction.

The water floor’s "pie" looks like this:

• base – made of wood or concrete slab;
• waterproofing – polyethylene film (0.1 mm);
• thermal insulation – polystyrene foam, or other insulation with a density of 40 kg/m³ and a thickness of 300 mm;
• water circuit – pipeline;
• reinforcing mesh – provides the density of the screed, the permissible thickness of the rods is 3 – 5 mm;
• concrete screed – a solution of concrete and cement with plasticizers;
• finish coating – any material compatible with heating floors.

This design’s overall thickness in a private home can range from 7 to 15 cm. The collector unit is connected to the water floor circuit.

Among the water structures are:

• Heavy (wet) – one of the most common options. An important role here is assigned to the black base, hydro- and thermal insulation, pipes and reinforcing mesh are put on it, and everything is poured with concrete solution. This method is recommended for brick cottages with concrete floors that can withstand the severity of the screed.

Crucial! A minimum of 3 cm of concrete should be present beneath the outer layer.

• Light – the basis under the pipes are polystyrene stoves. They fit on the draft floor and a water circuit is mounted on them. Since the plates are equipped with bosses with which the pipes are fixed, their additional fastening is not required. Thermal plastins are laid on top, on which the flooring is creeping.

Just so you know! This choice is appropriate for individual homes with wooden ceilings that cannot support large structures.

• On wooden rails – that is, the basis will be a tree to which heating elements are mounted. This design is closed with gypsum fiber and finish coating. But this method is not reliable, therefore, recommended for styling in extreme cases.

Methods of laying the circuit

There are currently three primary methods for manually laying the contour of a private home, but they all share one in common: the pipes are positioned from the walls in the direction of the center:

• "Snail" – laying the circuit is carried out in a spiral from walls to center, and back. At the same time, the design narrows to the center of the room. When drawing up the scheme, it should be remembered that you need to leave a place between the pipes, to return to their supply source. Using this scheme, heating the flooring is uniform, while the level of hydraulic resistance is reduced. The amount of pipe material with such laying is less than in other ways. The main drawback is complex installation.

• "Snake" – pipes are placed along the walls in the form of loops. The option is easy, but with it it is not possible to achieve uniform heating of the floors, since the temperature at the entrance and output varies significantly.

• Combined method – both schemes are combined in it. Suitable for rooms with cold walls. Along the walls, the circuit is laid with a "snake", and in the center "spiral". This method can save on pipes and increase the energy efficiency of the device.

Selection and calculation of materials

The project must be drawn out, and then the necessary materials must be determined. You can use the online calculator to perform independent calculations. You should get in touch with experts if you are unsure that you can calculate the necessary material for the heated floor on your own.

Standard indicators are used for these computations, such as the room’s area and features, the boiler and pump’s power, and the pipe diameter, which are unaffected by the styling technique and conditions. The heat transfer coefficient must also be calculated, and its value depends on the size of the windows, the amount of insulation, and the material used to build the walls. Such a warm floor is meant to be used in private homes only as an additional source of heating if the heat transfer indicator is 100 W/m2.

Pipes

The prepared drawing-scheme is used to calculate the pipe length. A complete water circuit is a requirement, so the pipeline should be split into multiple sections, each no longer than 100 meters, if the room is large.

The area of the room in meters of KV is the standard formula used to determine the pipeline’s size. The distance to the collector and the length of the curls are added, and it is divided into a styling step measured in meters.

It is advised to use a pipeline product with a diameter of 16 or 17 mm when installing a water structure in a private home by hand. Although it is acceptable, experts do not recommend using a circuit with a diameter of 20 mm because it thickens the screed. Additionally, the system’s efficiency decreases with increasing it. A 2 mm pipe wall is the ideal thickness.

One m2 of pipe is used on average:

• 10 meters with a step 10 cm;
• 6.75 m – at 15 cm.

The primary substance used to make water floor pipes is:

1. Stitched polyethylene-PE-X and PERT. The advantages of the type of PE-XA-the presence of memory memory, due to the high stitching density. That is, the stretched and deformed circuit under the influence of hot coolant is returned to its original shape. It is worth saying that the PE-XA circuit with axial fittings is not afraid to fill in the screed, but PERT equipped with cangy fittings should be opened in the joints. Therefore, it is recommended to put the type of PERT in the screed only with a whole segment, and install fittings only in places of fixation to the collector.
2. Metal -plastic – pipes from this material are often used in water floor designs, since inexpensive and easy to install (easily bending).
3. Copper – a product from it is expensive, requires protection from the effects of alkali in concrete solution. Therefore, it is rarely used in the installation of a water heating floor in a private house with your own hands.

Experts advise against installing composite pipes with an aluminum layer inside of homes due to the possibility of a metallized layer exploding.

If more dependable isolation is needed, it is preferable to purchase a product that has a polyvinyl ethumed layer inside of it.

Insulation

Thermal insulation serves to keep warm air flowing upward and away from the ground by separating the heating elements from the base. The configuration of a warm floor requires the presence of thermal insulation material. The floor cannot function properly without it, and the purpose of its construction is generally lost.

The most popular heaters consist of:

• Extruded polystyrene foam – has increased mechanical strength and low thermal conductivity. In addition, the product is moisture -resistant, so suitable for installation in the kitchen, bathroom or pool. EPPS is easy to install, as it is equipped with special grooves on the sides. The size of the sheets is 600 by 1250 and 500 by 1000, and the thickness ranges from 20 to 100 mm.

• Profile mats with grooves for fixing pipes have a high cost, but with their help laying the circuit is greatly simplified. The thickness of the mats is only 1 – 3 mm.

It is not hard to figure out how thick the insulation is on a warm water floor in a private home. Building upon the installation conditions is necessary.

• on the ground – a layer of 10 cm is required;
• above the basement – 5;
• If the warm room is 3 cm from below.

Furthermore, mounting components (plate dowels) are required to secure the plates to the floor.

Components for the collector

Cellular mixing unit equipment will be required for the design to work. It assists in directing heated coolant along the warm floor’s contours and modifying the temperature regime.

You will need to choose the parts for the kit on your own because collector nodes are not included in the package. Seek assistance from experts if you are unsure that you can properly outfit a collector cabinet on your own.

The node that collects comprises:

• collectors with valves;
• connecting fittings;
• automatic air vents;
• brackets for fixing on the wall;
• drain taps;
• metal cabinet;
• mixing node and pump;
• thermometer.

You must carefully select the material because warm water floors are typically constructed with a concrete screed and are intended to last for a long time. This means that all materials, including pipes, insulation, and components, should be of a high caliber and have a long lifespan; avoid purchasing cheap, subpar goods.

Warm water floor installation is a do-it-yourself project that can dramatically increase the comfort and energy efficiency of a private residence. You’ll need to install a network of pipes beneath your flooring in order to accomplish this. The subfloor must be prepared, insulation must be installed, pipes must be arranged in a certain way, and they must be connected to a heat source before a layer of concrete or screed is poured to hold everything in place. It"s important to follow safety guidelines and local building codes throughout the process. It is possible to build a warm, energy-efficient heating system that enhances the comfort and value of your house with proper planning and the appropriate materials.

Installation guide

Installing a water floor that you built yourself in a private home is a multi-phase process.

You can purchase a finished mixture or make your own solution to arrange a black floor. Since the floor’s base must be level, it is preferable to distribute the beacons across the surface independently.

To do this, heaps of the solution are created throughout the room with a specific step, and metal-profile beacons are placed inside of them. The screed is poured and aligned at this point. With protrusions between one and two centimeters, only minor variations are allowed; they must be near.

Since there will be more heat loss when a water floor is arranged on the soil, the coolant running along the highway should be at a high temperature.

In the event that a warm water floor is installed on a finished base, debris must be removed, and crevices and cavities must be filled in.

Waterproofing

The final floor’s stripes on the walls should be repellent before beginning the waterproofing material installation. Only after removing the SRD for which the work was called can waterproofing be done.

Glassizole or a thick polyethylene film works well for steam and waterproofing. Waterproofing is applied to the walls and each other in an overlapped pattern.

The joints between the stripes are taped when using the film. In the event that glass is utilized, bitumen mastic must be applied to the material overlay location. The glass is sealed at the joints using a gas burner only after it has dried.

Just so you know! Because bitumen mastic is toxic, work should be done with windows open.

Installation of the damping tape

The damper tape’s primary function is to offset the screed’s temperature expansion. Its typical dimensions are 10 to 15 cm in height and 5 mm in thickness.

The tape, which should be placed above the concrete screed, seals the room’s edges. Once the screed is poured, any excess will need to be cut off with a knife.

The laying of thermal insulation

Slabs of thermal insulation are joined with side grooves and fed tightly together. Starting with the room’s far corner, install the system. Extruded polystyrene foam is used, and the sheets creep upward.

Plate dowels are used to secure the slabs in the center and corners, and tape is used to seal the seams. The styling direction needs to be adjusted if the second layer of insulation needs to be installed.

You must proceed along the thin boards during the installation process so as not to harm the slabs.

Just so you know! If there are noticeable spaces forming between the sheets and the wall, these can be filled in by blowing mounting foam or cutting the insulation.

Marking and laying pipes

The process of installing the heating element is made simpler when the heat-insulating material has markings on it. If there isn’t one, you have to do it on your own. To accomplish this, the laying step of the circuit is taken into consideration and marks are made on the plate surfaces using a marker. On the marks, a molar thread, a line of laying pipes is shot down and then drawn by a marker.

A collector cabinet is installed and all connecting valves are ready before the pipeline is installed.

The following are the guidelines for installing the water circuit:

• 20 meters of the pipe are unwinded from the bay, it is better to do this using special equipment so that there are no products of the product;
• The heat -insulating sleeve and connecting the fitting are put on the end;
• The end is connected to the collector;
• The contour is laid according to the markings and the scheme;
• pipes are fixed with harpoon wrapps;
• Laying the pipeline is carried out so that the second end will return to the collector, it should also be connected to it.

Crucial! Every loop’s size needs to be noted on the wall across from it.

Transit pipes that go through walls need to be given extra insulation if they do.

Installation of a reinforcing grid

Over the heating circuit, a reinforcing mesh is layered to increase the structure’s strength. A metal grid with 10 by 10 cm cells and 3 mm thick rods would be a good choice. One option is to use a model with plastic mesh. The grid’s nets are connected to one another by wire.

The system is crimping

Prior to beginning the concrete screed pouring process, you must crimp the system to ensure it is operating properly. This procedure must be followed because it will be challenging to fix issues if there are system leaks after the screed has been poured.

To do this, five bars of pressure are applied to the highway, and it is left full of water for a day. If a leak is found, it is fixed and the procedure is carried out again. If the pressure drops during this period, it suggests that there are tightness issues, which need to be resolved as well before filling the screed.

Laying a cement screed

Prior to beginning the screed arrangement by hand in a private residence, the circuit pressure must be increased to 5 bar. Additionally, installing the beacons first will make the concreting process easier.

The surface is allowed to set for two days following the pour. Before the beacons appear, the excess damping tape is cut off and the concrete floor is cleaned. After being cleared of trash and given a light mist, it is covered with polyethylene for the day.

Subsequently, the beacons are taken out, and the pits are filled with a solution and straightened. After another wet application, a film is applied to the surface. Within ten days, this process should be repeated daily.

It will take approximately one month for the concrete to dry completely, at which point the flooring can be installed and the system activated.

Commissioning

We balance the concrete after it has solidified. The main idea behind this process is to use valves to change the coolant’s flow rate. This indicator must be the same across all contours. If all goes according to plan, the actions should be performed initially with cold water. If not, hot coolant is used for the check.

You should invite an expert if you are unsure that you can perform the balancing correctly on your own.

Laying of the flooring

The finish coating is the last layer in the "pie" of the warm water floor. Once the system’s functionality has been verified, it is installed on a surface of dried concrete.

It is necessary to select a finish coating material that has a badge indicating that it is compatible with heating floors on the packaging or in the instructions. A ceramic tile will be the best choice if the room is more humid than usual.

Fuel options and types of cats

The coolant should be your first consideration when selecting a heating boiler for a waterflower. You should also consider:

• energy costs;
• thermal power level;
• convenience and simplicity in operating the boiler;
• Light process of connecting a boiler with elements of warm floor.

The water in the structure needs to be circulated and heated to 45 degrees. When the device is connected to the home’s main heating system, the boiler’s power is chosen first, taking into account the radiator’s needs. If radiators are not available, a low-temperature boiler model can be installed.

The following boiler types are appropriate for do-it-yourself installation in a private home:

• solid -fuel;
• gas;
• electric;
• Automatic.

Using a gas boiler makes more sense if the house is gasified. You are given comfort when you choose its power wisely.

It is advised to use a floor boiler with an open combustion chamber if there are frequent power outages. Purchasing this alternative will be less expensive than buying an electric generator.

The solid-fuel boiler must be stewarded if you choose to use firewood to heat the warm floor’s heat carrier because it will require a location to release heat. Furthermore, since the fluid heating in such a boiler is at least 55 degrees, it is unable to provide water heating in aisles that are 40 degrees. Attempting to keep the temperature below will cause condensate, rust, and a reduction in the boiler’s efficiency.

Connection of the boiler

As previously mentioned, you must consider the area of the room that will be heated when selecting a boiler. The most popular boiler model for a private home with 12 square meters is the three-phase model. Concurrently, 6 kV mm veins are used with the wiring cable.

When assembling cranes on their own, experts are recommended to utilize pakal. You can use a water-warm floor without a knot if there are no radiators.

You can perform system balancing by using cones and valves, which will ensure that every room has the same stream and pressure.

We provide you with the opportunity to become acquainted with the nine different methods of connecting a heated floor to a private home’s heating system in one article!

Step	Description
1. Plan Layout	Sketch your floor plan, marking where pipes will go and where connections will be.
2. Prepare Floor	Ensure the floor is clean and level. Install insulation to prevent heat loss.
3. Install Manifold	Mount the manifold, which distributes water to different zones of your floor.
4. Lay Pipes	Attach the pipes to the insulation using clips, following your planned layout.
5. Connect to Boiler	Connect the pipes to your boiler and the manifold to ensure a consistent flow of warm water.
6. Test System	Turn on the system and check for leaks. Ensure the water is circulating properly.
7. Install Flooring	Once the system is tested, install your chosen flooring material, like tile or laminate.
8. Final Checks	After flooring is installed, test the system again to make sure everything works as expected.

Adding warm water floors to your home can significantly improve both comfort and energy efficiency. The outcome is a comfortable house with constant, even heating, even though the process does need some preliminary preparation and work. These floors can be used as a stand-alone solution or as a supplement to your current heating system, depending on your requirements.

The important steps are as follows: planning the layout, selecting the appropriate materials, installing the tubing, and making sure the insulation is adequate. You can make sure that your floors are long-lasting, effective, and warm by following these guidelines. To prevent expensive errors later on, it is imperative that you take your time and review your work thoroughly at every stage.

Remember to take into account how the new warm water floors will work with your current heating system. Seeking advice from an expert is usually a good idea, particularly with regard to connections, pressure testing, and final setup. Your first concern should always be safety, and you can feel more at ease knowing that an expert has provided their opinion.

Finally, you should notice an immediate improvement in the comfort level of your home once your warm water floors are installed and operational. Furthermore, compared to conventional solutions, this kind of heating system may be more energy-efficient, which could eventually lower your heating expenses. Savor the comfort and contentment that come from knowing that you and your family have a cozy space.