Warm film floor under the laminate – step -by -step installation instructions

Enough insulation and heating are essential for maintaining a warm and comfortable home. Even the coziest space can seem uninviting due to a cold floor, particularly in the winter months. Thankfully, there are creative ways to solve this problem, and the warm film floor system is one of them. Installing this state-of-the-art technology beneath laminate flooring is a great way to heat your house discreetly and efficiently from the ground up.

Although installing a warm film floor system beneath laminate flooring may initially seem like a difficult undertaking, many homeowners can complete it as a do-it-yourself project with the correct direction and detailed instructions. Your cold floors can be turned into a warm haven by following a few easy steps, which will improve the ambience and comfort of your living area.

Understanding how the warm film floor system operates is crucial before beginning the installation process. It is basically made up of several incredibly thin heating elements that are put in right underneath the laminate flooring. Radiant heat is produced by these components, which warms the floor gradually and distributes heat equally over the space. Warm film floors function silently and effectively, as opposed to conventional heating systems like forced-air or radiators, offering constant warmth without the need for any obvious parts.

The adaptability and simplicity of installation of a warm film floor system are two important benefits. The thin profile of the warm film makes it easy to install directly under laminate flooring without raising the floor height significantly, in contrast to large radiators or intricate underfloor heating systems. This implies that you can take advantage of radiant floor heating without having to make significant renovations or sacrifice the aesthetics of your space.

The principle of operation and the dignity of infrared film warm floor

The primary means of heat transmission are:

• convection – heat is transmitted by air from subject to object;
• rays – when a body heated more than 60 degrees emits electromagnetic waves up to 100 microns.

The majority of heating systems work on the basis of heat transfer, which is the process by which heat is transferred into the air and then dispersed throughout the space.

The operation of film infrared floors differs. Their primary layer consists of laminating films, carbon emitter, and conductive stripes with copper and silver spraying. A solid body (laminate) can be heated by the radiation that carbon paste emits when it conducts a current. The laminate heats the space through convection.

Different lengths of rays cause different objects to heat when they pass through floor coverings. Consequently, placing furniture over heating components is prohibited.

Femorative systems are made of rolls that are 50, 60, 80, and 100 cm long; variations in length are allowed. A unique strip goes through the step that is 20 to 25 cm long, and the carriage is cut along it. These film warm floors have a power of 150–440 W/m2.

Though there are far more benefits than drawbacks, this heating system has both.

Consider the advantages and disadvantages

1. In the heat of heat – the floor surface where people are located: passages, places of rest and work are heated. Heat is not spent on heating furniture from below, which reduces electricity costs. The material itself is more economically consumed, since it is not placed under furniture.
2. The film warm floor is not expensive, despite the fact that the price itself for a set of film heating is high, unlike other types of floors. The minimum cost of components is 2000 rubles, they include: a temperature sensor, thermal regulator, electric wires, contacts, tape. In addition, 650 rubles costs sq. meter film. But the high price of the material is not overlapped by the cost of installation.
3. The infrared film is not afraid of minus temperatures, and can work even at minus 70 degrees. The system remains in working condition with a long stay in the cold room. This is a certain plus when using the system in country houses and dachas.
4. The ability to install in premises of any type – private houses, apartments or office. There is no danger of flooding of neighbors, as with a water floor model. Rooms on belonging can be any – children"s, living room, kitchen, bathroom.
5. Simplicity in installation and dismantling. The connection of elements does not require experience, the main attentiveness and accuracy. In this case, the laying of film warm floor is done quickly.
6. Infrared radiation coming from carbon elements is similar to solar heat.
7. Does not need repairs. Parallel connection connection, therefore, when one of the lanes fails, the system continues to work. And if the need to replace the entire structure arises, it is easily dismantled.
8. Uniform heating of the room. Important – heat is concentrated below, which is favorable for human life.
9. The floor is warm, you can walk barefoot and lower the children to the floor, without fear that they will get cold.
10. The infrared warm floor serves for a long time, even with constant operation, and does not require technical care.
11. Inside the room there is no invective and convection movement of air flows, which means there are no drafts, and the dust does not rise upward.

These sexes have drawbacks as well, albeit far fewer than the advantages.

1. Large electricity consumption (find out how to reduce electricity consumption), although carbon emitters have high efficiency.
2. The risk of a short circuit when the water penetrates.
3. The system depends on the supply of electricity.
4. It is impossible to rearrange the furniture, without changing the floor scheme. It will take the dismantling of the laminate and layout of the heaters according to the new scheme.

Paul set and structure

A warm floor film kit includes:

1. Heating elements with medium width from 500 to 1000 mm. The length is different, but not more than 8 meters are recommended. The canvas is cut on the required size in special lanes.
2. Terminal.
3. Thermal attenter – he is responsible for the heating level.
4. Thermal controller (control unit) – is electronic and electromechanical. It has a different design and an indication system, but the power connection to the heating elements and the thermostat is similar.
5. Often in the set there is a cable of the required size.
6. There is definitely there is a material for isolation, in the form of a bitumen tape.

It’s important to consider the power level when selecting a warm laminate floor. The typical one is -150 or 220 W/m²; however, 440 W/m² are occasionally found. A power of over 150 watts is sufficient to heat a laminate floor to 40 °C, especially since it is not advised to use a higher temperature for laminate.

For a sexual coating, you need a substrate that is at least 3 mm thick. It should ideally have one foil side that reflects base-emitted infrared radiation, causing all heat to rise. It’s crucial that she avoids conducting electricity. One-sided and double-sided tape are required.

Infrared film flooring consists of a thin, heated canvas with laminate covering sagging over it. These models use continuous or sprayed carbon stripes that act as heating sources. The polyurethane or Lavsan material encloses the stripes on all sides. 0.2 to 2 mm in thickness structure.

The layers that make up the infrared warm floor’s structure when it is laid out are as follows:

• Laminate – floor covering.
• Subblate – Vinyl or polyethylene is suitable. She passes heat, and delayed water, which is important.

Heating elements – the "heart" of the warm floor.

• Heat-refracting material-its purpose, reduction of heat-rubber. A prerequisite – must be not carried out. Polyethylene isolation or a cork foam is suitable, having a reflecting layer.
• The basis of the floor is solid and even. For this, the concrete base can be poured with a leveling composition, and lay plywood on a wooden.

We make a diagram

Prior to purchasing a kit for the laminate film floor, you should carefully consider and sketch out a plan for installing the heaters and connecting them to the power source.

The following considerations need to be made when creating a diagram:

1. The floor is not to close the film completely. It is not installed under the furniture, since normal heat transfer is violated. In addition, heating will cause deformation of furniture and laminate. And also, will reduce the life and increase the cost of electric energy.
2. Place heating elements at a safe distance (250 – 300 mm) from walls and from heating sources.
3. Roll up the rolls of the film floor along the large wall of the room, so the number of contact connections will decrease.
4. You should make the distance between the sheets of 50 mm. You can not put them in the overlap.
5. In order for the room to warm up well, it is enough to cover with heating elements 60 – 70% of the area. It is permissible to plan areas of increased comfort – this is a children"s and a place of rest.

Furthermore, careful consideration should be given to where the system’s cable communications are located:

1. Choose the optimal place on the wall for the control unit, it should be at a height of at least 500 mm from the floor, be convenient for connecting wires.
2. It is forbidden to connect the "warm floor" to an ordinary outlet, since the total power of the system is high. It is necessary to plan a separate line of power of the corresponding section. For the most safe, it is recommended to provide an RCD to protect the device in the scheme.
3. Most of the thermostat can be installed in a standard outlet available on the wall. It is enough to make the strobes from it to half a size of 20 by 20.
4. When planning the laying of the wiring, the intersection of wires is not permissible. Connection schemes are different, but the most common is when the cable is connected to heating elements from one edge.

There are instances in which connecting a phase and zero cable from different sides is more practical and economical.

• It is necessary to provide a section on the drawing where the sensor will be installed. It is placed in the center of the film heater. At least 500 mm is recommended to do the indentation from the walls. The perfect location is the coldest area in the room.

A well-designed plan will enable accurate estimation of material and component requirements and simplify the installation of heated laminate flooring.

You can follow our step-by-step instructions to install warm film flooring under laminate with ease. We’ll start by defining warm film flooring and outlining its many advantages for maintaining a cozy home. The installation procedure will then be divided into simple steps, starting with prepping the subfloor and ending with applying the film and laminating the surface. Regardless of your level of experience with do-it-yourself projects, following our detailed instructions will enable you to create a cozy and pleasant floor that you will enjoy walking on.

Which laminate to choose

The choice of coating model is crucial for the warm floor beneath the laminate to function normally. Unsuitable parquet will exhibit distortion, poor heat transfer, and an excess of allowable formaldehyde release.

He has heated the Flon floor laminate to satisfy the following specifications:

• It is not recommended to have a castle connection, to use glue for installation of plates, it creates a stiff seam that breaks at temperature changes;
• have high thermal conductive indicators, for infrared warm floor, a coefficient of 0.05-0.10 m2 x ° K/W;
• The optimal thickness of the plates is 8 – 9 mm, if they are thinner – the locking connection is destroyed at a temperature difference, and thick heat is poorly allowed;
• Do not distinguish when heated formaldehyde above the permissible chapel, the floor covering of the EO and K1 class is suitable;
• be wear -resistant, not lower than 3 classes, the more this indicator, the higher the floor strength above.

These specifications dictate that purchasing a laminate floor is essential for warmth. Additionally, the product’s instructions or packaging should have a unique icon that indicates that this laminate can be used in conjunction with heating elements.

Statement technology

The primary benefits of infrared film flooring over alternative options are its ease of use and potential for self-installation.

Moreover, even novice home craftsmen can easily lay the finish coating without prior experience.

Preparation of the base and laying of thermal insulation

The following tasks should be completed before installing an infrared warm floor: waterproofing and basis preparation.

Crucial! With a slope of no more than two millimeters per meter, the base should be level and sturdy.

It is essential to thoroughly inspect the base to look for any cracks or irregularities. Allow them to dry if you find any. They should have subsided by now. The surface must then be thoroughly cleared of dust and debris (laid out or sink).

Filling the screed with leveling composition is made easier by notable variations in the concrete base.

The installation of thermal and insulating material comes next. Even in the places where the heating element won’t be, it fits all the way around to the walls.

A cork with a reflecting layer or foam polyethylene can be used as the isolator. Aluminum foil conducts current, so it cannot be used. The foil side’s insulation is dispersed upward.

It is crucial that the radiation beneath the film has a thickness of 3 to 4 mm because that is where the cable laying furrows will be made. It should be secured with a stapler and the stripes should be connected with double-metallized tape to prevent it from shifting during further actions.

Additionally, a recess beneath the temperature sensor is cut out of the insulating material.

Laying film infrared emitters

Arranging the heating film according to the current plan. Take great care during installation to ensure that the heating canvas’s integrity is not compromised. The stripes designed for this purpose advise using scissors to cut the film.

The heating elements are placed at least 20 cm away from the wall, the furniture, and one meter away from the heating devices. This is required to prevent the floor from overheating and failing.

Place the copper-tired film elements on the ground and secure with adhesive tape. The maximum length of the heating stripes that is allowed is eight meters.

The film cannot be laid on the slush; there is a 50 mm space between each stripe. The film should be positioned along the large wall, father-in-law, toward the thermostat to reduce wiring costs.

Then, in areas not meant for cable communication, it becomes imperative to take steps to insulate the locations where the current-bobbled tire was cut. Bitumen tape must be used for these purposes; for optimal sealing, it is best to press the tape firmly on all sides.

Connection of a thermostat

On a black carbon strip, position a thermal attenter in the center of the canvas. Create cable channels and a deepening for the substrate in this location when it is being laid on the base.

Use a bitumen ribbon to secure the case. The film is replaced and affixed to the tape after the sensor is installed and the wires are visible on the thermostat. Terminals can now be installed.

Installation of terminals and connection of cable

Terminals are installed at the locations where the floor and power supply are connected. In order to accomplish this, the top must fit into a designated slot, leaving the second plate attached to the outside of the film from the bottom. Squeeze the clip firmly but neatly to create a contact connection with the copper tire’s silver section using pliers.

Certain film floor models have an additional method of joining terminals, which is called riveting; the instructions specify this.

The connecting of the cable is the next step. Cleaning, insertion into the terminal, and plier pressure are all necessary steps for conducting wires. Isolating the terminals is necessary because bitumen tape stripes must be glued from above and below and thoroughly connected. Eliminate any air bubbles from the knot to ensure optimal tightness.

It should be noted that bitumen tape has the ability to heat up when it is initially integrated into the electrical grid and assume the shape of a protected node, which maximizes sealing.

Connection of the thermostat

Since precise temperature control is necessary for sexual coating (laminate), it is preferable to use an electronic device rather than a mechanical one. The control unit of the thermostat has connectors specifically designed to join the wires. It is recognized that all wires must converge at the location of the device in accordance with the floor heating installation technology.

An icon with areas for grounding, load, and voltage is developed in the instructions to eliminate errors when connecting wires.

Crucial! Wiring is prohibited since it may cause the structure to overheat.

Cables fit into grooves that have been specially prepared after being connected. The thermostat is fixed to the intended location that is practical for usage. You can now begin performing performance tests on the floor.

Just so you know! The floor is the second sensor used by electronic thermostats to measure air temperature.

For the warm floor’s operation, there are the following choices:

1. Using the readings of only the floor sensor. For example, heating is turned on at a temperature of less than 25 degrees, and the shutdown is set – when 29 degrees reached.
2. Using the readings of two devices. It is planned that heating will be turned on, it will be at 23 degrees in the room, and turn off when it reaches 26 degrees of air, or in accordance with the readings of the flooring – 30 degrees.

If the floor sensor breaks, you will need to replace it, which will require taking the flooring apart. It is preferable to have an extra device on hand and connect it as a backup during installation to avoid having to use such time-consuming procedures. Take the thermostat’s wire.

Simply disconnect the damaged thermostat from the thermostat and attach a spare in the event that the main sensor fails.

The first launch of the system

It is important to confirm that the floor must function before installing laminate flooring.

Prior to starting the system, you must verify its integrity. Since inspecting the infrared floor joints is the primary objective of the test, a low test temperature is acceptable. We can conclude that the movie is of a high caliber and that the connections were made correctly because there were no sparks or overheating of the components. If certain issues are found, you must relaunch the campaign after fixing them.

After cutting the system’s power supply, the laminate can be installed.

How to lay a laminate

The heating elements should be covered with insulating material prior to mounting the laminate to prevent water from falling on them. Applying a 200 μm plastic film will suffice to protect against moisture without impeding infrared radiation. The waterproofing won’t alter the surface relief because of its minimal thickness.

Once the material is cut to the appropriate length, place it on top of the heating film with a small gap. He ought to act between 10 and 20 cm from the edges. Make sure you use tape to secure the seams when applying the laminate to prevent any shifting.

Once the waterproofing has been distributed, the laminate can be installed. To prevent inadvertent damage to the film, the laminate installation on the film floor needs to be done carefully and with soft shoes.

Laminated panels can be placed straight onto a polyethylene film; no additional substrate needs to be laid. Because each board features a castle mechanism, you must attach the panels at an angle before lowering it to make a click. Simply hit the gap with a rubber hammer if it appears. The laid stripes are secured after the boards are joined by narrow sides. Following the tile installation, the baseboard is put in place around the perimeter of the space, concealing all of the wiring beneath it.

Crucial! Because the laminate expands due to temperature variations, gaps must be left between the laminate and the walls when installing it.

You can check the functionality of the infrared film floor by turning it on after the laminate has been laid. However, you shouldn’t apply full force heating right away in order to adjust the laminate to the new circumstances.

It is worthwhile to set the indicators to between 15 and 20 degrees at first, then add 5 degrees each day until the system reaches its maximum power.

Step	Instructions
1	Clean the subfloor thoroughly, removing any debris or dust.
2	Install a moisture barrier over the subfloor to protect the laminate from any moisture.
3	Unroll the warm film evenly across the floor, making sure there are no wrinkles or folds.
4	Connect the warm film to the thermostat following the manufacturer"s instructions.
5	Install the laminate flooring on top of the warm film, starting from one corner and working your way across the room.
6	Trim the excess warm film around the edges of the room using a utility knife.
7	Test the warm film system to ensure it"s functioning properly before completing the installation.

Warm film flooring under laminate can significantly improve the comfort and energy efficiency of your house. It lowers heating expenses in the winter months in addition to offering plush warmth underfoot. You can make your place into a comfortable haven by following the detailed installation instructions provided in this guide.

To start, planning is essential. A clean, dry, and level subfloor is a prerequisite for starting the installation process. Your warm film floor’s lifespan and performance can be impacted by any debris or unevenness. Spend some time carefully inspecting the subfloor and fixing or adjusting as needed.

The warm film panels should then be carefully arranged in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions. The seamless integration of these panels results in a consistent heating surface. When installing the panels, take care not to damage or overlap them as this could reduce their efficacy.

After the panels are positioned, the laminate flooring can be put in place on top. In order to maintain uniformity, use spacers and don’t forget to leave a small gap around the room’s edges to accommodate expansion. Take care not to damage the wiring or block the warm film panels when installing the laminate planks.

Testing the warm film system is essential to ensuring proper operation after laminate flooring is installed. For testing and troubleshooting, adhere to the manufacturer’s instructions and take quick action to resolve any issues. You will be able to take advantage of your new warm film floor for many years to come once everything is operational.

To sum up, adding a warm film floor beneath laminate is an excellent investment that will improve your home’s efficiency and comfort. You can create a comfortable space for your family to enjoy and attain professional results by following the detailed installation instructions in this guide. With a warm film floor, you can wave goodbye to chilly floors and hello to opulent warmth!

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