Types and installation of a shower tray with your own hands

Installing a new shower tray can significantly improve your bathroom’s appearance. It not only makes the area more aesthetically pleasing, but it also guarantees effective drainage and keeps your floors safe from water damage. Knowing the various kinds of shower trays and how to install them can save you time and money, whether you’re remodeling your bathroom or just replacing an outdated tray.

Selecting the material of a shower tray is among the first choices to be made. There are numerous choices, such as tiled trays, acrylic, fiberglass, and stone resin. Acrylic trays are a popular option for do-it-yourselfers because they are lightweight and simple to install. Although fiberglass trays are strong and lightweight as well, they might need extra support to keep from flexing. Trays made of stone resin have an opulent appearance and feel, while trays made of tiles can be customized to match the style of your bathroom.

After deciding which style of shower tray best meets your requirements and tastes, it’s time to think about how to install it. Although you can always hire a professional, installing a shower tray yourself can make for a satisfying do-it-yourself project. To guarantee a successful installation, it is imperative to carefully follow the manufacturer’s instructions and take the required safety measures.

Get all the equipment and supplies you’ll need, such as a spirit level, silicone sealant, adhesive, and grout (if installing a tiled tray), before you start. To begin with, make sure the floor is level, clean, and clear of any debris. Next, take your time positioning the shower tray so that it rests evenly on the walls and is flush with them.

After the tray has been properly positioned, use the suggested adhesive or fixing technique to keep it in place. Throughout the installation process, make sure the tray is level to prevent any possible drainage problems. To ensure a leak-proof seal and stop any leaks, seal the tray’s edges with silicone sealant.

Build a shower tray yourself

Making a shower tray in the bathroom is a fantastic project to take on. You can succeed in making it;

• From the brick;
• Made of bricks and moisture-resistant building blocks;
• Concrete;
• Steel.

Brick pallet

Red full-body brick works well for building a shower tray because it doesn’t mind getting wet. Other than the siphon’s space, there are no size constraints. With a standard brick dimension of 120 x 65 (w x h), you can use masonry to create a tray in two rows of one brick, three quarter brick, or half brick.

Brick and block pallet

The concept here is as follows. Brick is laid out in any pattern along the bottom of the pallet. PGP or cinder blocks, which are resistant to moisture, are used to construct the pallet’s walls.

Shower tray made of concrete

A pallet made of lightweight concrete can be constructed on site by utilizing the technology of concreting in the formwork.

Steel pallet

Why not use stainless steel to create a shower tray if it is available? Tell me if it appears to be a trough. I’ll respond, and it will resemble what you’ve made. By the way, two-component enamel for baths covers steel flawlessly.

Make a shower tray from extruded polystyrene

Pallet of extruded polystyrene

Extruded polystyrene is a material that has a waterproofing layer on it. It is not to be mistaken with insulation.

These are hard, 10–12 cm thick slabs that have a layer of roll waterproofing on top of them. Instead of using the tray, cut a square or rectangular piece for the tray and make a hole for the layers to lie on the floor.

Considering how well the material cuts. After that, you can select any tray shape. While it is not required, it is advised that trays be placed level with the bathtub floor. Polystyrene can be used to create trays with any shape and depth.

Make a shower tray from a terrace board

Pallet terrace board

Terrace board is a type of plywood used to finish floors in showers, outdoor spaces, verandas, and other spaces up to the embankments. As you already know, the terrace board is completely unafraid of water. As an alternative, view the picture of a terrace board pallet.

Make a pallet of wood

To sum up, there are practical ways to construct a shower tray out of common wood that won’t splinter in the shower. If wood floors are common in bathrooms, why not create a wood floor for the shower or a moisture-resistant wood tray?

Premade pallets of glass

Ultimately, two impractical ways to construct a pallet. Pallet made of glass is the first. as a choice. The sides are constructed, tiled, and have an armored glass tray with a drain hole in place of a tray.

Make a pallet from plexiglass

Why not construct a plexiglass tray if the bathtub bowl is made of the same material? No picture will be included.

Types of pallets. Making the right choice

Trays come in a wide variety. Parameters such as color, material, depth, shapes, and sizes vary amongst models. It’s excellent if you have already purchased a tray. However, if you are merely in the decision-making phase, we will endeavor to assist you in avoiding errors.

Variations in size and form We can differentiate between four fundamental forms of shower trays:

• Square (with the size of the edges up to 130 cm);
• Rectangular pallets have a minimum size of 70×80 cm;
• Semicircular – 80×80, 90×90;
• Five-sided – 100×100 cm.

The trays vary not only in shape but also in depth. As a result, sanitary products with a mere 4.5 cm depth are available. There is an 18-cm maximum indication.

Not every size is provided. When purchasing, more information is already available. But you also need to consider the bathroom’s dimensions. Not to be overlooked, though, is the aspect of comfort. It’s preferable to spend more money on a larger pallet if the minimum depth makes you uncomfortable and small sizes make you feel self-conscious.

Variations in the manufacturing materials There are sufficient materials to make shower trays. The primary materials include marble, cast iron, steel, ceramics, and acrylic. Which should you select for yourself? Another question contains the answer to the first one. either appearance or quality. It is a fact that certain materials are more resilient than others when it comes to design choices. As a result, you ought to determine what matters most to you. You could also combine the two attributes. But now here’s where the money issue lies.

A marble tray will be the best choice. Its durability and external parameters make it incomparable to any of the other options. But this is where the budgetary strategy is useful. Since the pallet is more expensive than other models, not everyone will be able to purchase it.

You should not disregard cast iron and steel models if you are betting on durability. The first option also has a pleasing appearance, something the second option regrettably cannot claim.

Trays made of ceramic and acrylic look stunning. They are more delicate, though, in comparison to sanitary ware composed of other materials. Despite this, acrylic trays continue to be the most popular purchase. The fact that they are already sagging and prone to cracking even under the weight of another person is not lost on many. In all fairness, this is preventable. Preinstalling a unique pallet stand is how it’s done. I find it intriguing to understand how to make it. Continue reading.

Foundation constructions

Cabins don’t seem to require a foundation at first glance. To begin using the product, simply adjust the legs. However, that isn’t actually the case. One important consideration is the height at which the pallet installation is made. It is required that the drainage hole be located above the sewer outlet. in order for the runoff to securely exit the tray.

Most of the time, a frame or foundation is not required. However, it should be mentioned that the majority of the products are made specifically to need to be replaced over time. Naturally, we want to stay away from this as much as we can. The design is a perfect example of everything that can go wrong.

Needed or not?

Usually, it becomes apparent right away whether a foundation needs to be built. It is sufficient to measure the sewer pipe’s level in order to accomplish this. It should be directly above the sump drain hole. The drain is better the larger the difference. In general, a slope of three centimeters for every meter of pipe path length is thought to be adequate; however, other ratios may work as well in real-world situations.

There is typically a siphon placement area beneath the sump, preventing the need for a structural support beneath the drain.

We want to make sure that readers are aware that the drain is not too high for deep, tall pallets. Since the majority of the vertical portion is used to form walls

This tray’s name, "deep," is not coincidental—you can wash, wash kids in it. Usually, there’s a chair in the corner.

Stall tray with increased depth

90% of the time, a deep tray has a sturdy metal profile frame. This seems like a good idea at first, but in reality, the foot squeezes the pallet in between the rails. And that’s just enough to create a crack because plastic gets brittle with time. For this reason, deep trays are occasionally set on the foundation. For the smaller ones, this is a prescription that they are given from birth: numerous owners have attested to the fact that the thin, flat bottom is perfectly broken. At first, the effect is not noticeable, but it gradually worsens.

Trim

When the waterproofing is finally dry, it"s time to finish the finish. I decided to use glass mosaic instead of floor tiles: it is easier to adjust it to uneven surface and it is not difficult to lay, because it is sold ready-made sheets on a mesh base. Having laid out and adjusted all the sheets, I glued them in place using a special adhesive. The joints were sealed with latex grout with increased resistance to cracking and mold (photo 5). I applied it with an elastic rubber trowel diagonally, immediately removing the excess. In order not to leave a whitish patina on the mosaic, I removed the grout in three steps: first just a damp sponge, then water with a few drops of acetic acid, and finally a crumpled dry newspaper. I waited for half an hour and finally wiped off the remains of white deposits with a slightly damp sponge and newspaper to a dry "clean" squeak (photo 6).

The shower tray looks fantastic. Cracks and other damage did not show up on it after several years of use and winterization in both heated and freezing houses.

Author-taken photo

Selection of height, shape and dimensions

You have chosen to install a shower tray or shower cabin during the planning stage of the bathroom repair. This concept can be realized in a few different ways. Purchase a prefabricated shower cabin, purchase a prefabricated shower tray, or construct a shower cabin yourself.

The benefits of independent manufacturing can be attributed to the following arguments:

• significant savings;
• the ability to make a tray of any shape and size;
• choose a decorative coating, in accordance with the design of the entire room;
• install the shower equipment that you need;
• choose or order a customized fence.

You will consequently have a luxurious shower cabin whose quality you can be certain of. This post will provide you with instructions on how to construct a shower tray skillfully, list the supplies and equipment you’ll need, and help you steer clear of construction and finishing errors.

Selecting a location for the shower tray’s construction. While it is ideal to have it close to the communications, this is not a major concern because you can create a tray in any area of the bathroom with skillful communication wiring.

• For a city apartment is best suited for a lightweight screed, and a lightweight design of the pallet.
• In a private house or dacha the weight of the structure is important only when organizing a bathroom on the upper floors of the house. In this case it is necessary to calculate the permissible load on the slab.

Selecting the tray’s shape. Everything is dependent upon your creativity, building experience, and the room’s dimensions.

It is crucial that the future shower tray be convenient for the whole family. For instance, the tray should be large and ideally have a streamlined shape if you have elderly or obese individuals in your care.

There won’t be any jagged edges, which ensures safety.

Determine how high the tray’s sides should be. There are a tonne of options available when it comes to shower tray height: you can build a mini-pool, purchase a special gangway, or forego the edge entirely. Nevertheless, since installing a shower drain "in the floor" necessitates raising the floor level overall and applying a thicker layer of screed, these options are primarily limited to private home owners. Because a mini-pool is such a heavy construction, it may cause slabs or other supporting structures to collapse when it is fully filled with water.

One brick’s height from the interior surface of a shower tray is considered to be the standard height for these trays.

Mounting the acrylic shower tray

Acrylic trays are a standard feature of most contemporary shower cabins. They are simple to assemble and have good installation adaptability.

View from the bottom of the reinforced acrylic shower tray

1.1. Invert the tray, then screw in the legs. Three to five of them are possible. Perform this operation with the designated frame, i.e., the holes for screwing in the legs will be made in it, if the pallet comes with a separate metal or plastic support frame (in addition to the reinforcement of the pallet itself). Make an effort to make sure the legs extend from the bottom of the tray by roughly the same length and are longer than the drain trap.

1.2. Put the drainage system together. In most designs, this is accomplished by turning the tray on its side, sliding the connecting sleeve from the bathtub’s side (the washing cavity) into the drain hole, and firmly pressing the siphon spigot onto the connecting sleeve’s protruding end from the bottom. To make the connection secure, use glue. Use sealant to close up any gaps and joints. See the following for variations that use gaskets and threaded connections. instructions for a shower enclosure.

Changing the acrylic tray’s legs

1.3. Set the tray up between the legs. Ensure that the trap’s lower portion stays off the ground. Make sure that the top surface of the tray—the one on which the shower cabin’s walls will be installed—is horizontal by rotating the legs to change their length.

This is crucial because a slanted installation will cause the cabin to leak rapidly.

For horizontality, use a construction level. Usually, it consists of a wooden bar into which a glass flask containing an air bubble is inserted. The bubble should be placed in the center of the flask, opposite the associated risk, on a strictly horizontal surface.

There is an easier way to check the tray’s horizontality if you don’t have a construction level. Consider a standard shallow table plate with straight edges. Place it on the tray’s edge and fill it with water progressively. There is a slope on the side of the plate where the water will begin to run off earlier than from other sides; this side of the tray needs to be elevated.

Continue doing this on the pallet’s sides until the plate starts to fill uniformly. Use stoppers to secure the shower tray’s legs after leveling.

1.4. Apply glue to the walls’ edges and firmly press them against the wall(s) if the shower tray is mounted in the room’s corner or at its wall. After the adhesive has had time to dry, lubricate the joint with sealant between the room’s walls and the pallet’s sides.

1.5. Attach the drain pipe to the siphon’s outlet pipe and install the tray’s decorative cover, covering the lower portion of the unit as well as the legs that extend to the floor (this step can be completed even after the shower cabin is fully installed).

The acrylic shower tray installation is now complete.

For information on the benefits of installing a marble shower tray in your bathroom as well as where to get one, click this link.

Classic cast iron shower trays are also available on our website.

Installing shower cabins without a shower tray can also be of interest. Complete guidelines are available at:

Homemade shower tray

You can assemble a tray with your own hands in the restroom if you are given the chance and time. Since moisture-resistant brick will be used as the base in this instance, there is absolutely no need to purchase an acrylic pallet.

Installing the water and sewer lines, waterproofing the floor, and other necessary steps are the first things to do. Installing the tray in place of the outdated bathtub is the best option. Still, mastic should be applied to the floor and a film should be applied.

The next step is to build the bricks’ sides, which are placed on mortar that can withstand moisture. Their height should be higher than the drain’s protrusion, which serves as a starting point for calculating the height of the homemade shower tray.

The base is now prepared, but it needs time to dry. The interior of the tray is then filled with a self-leveling concrete mixture that is 6 to 8 cm thick. To ensure that the water drains quickly at this point, a small inclination towards the sewer hole must be created.

The pallet is treated on all sides with primer after it has dried once more, and then it is covered in multiple layers of mastic or another waterproofing compound. Finally, a mixture of cement and tile adhesive is applied to the tray’s whole surface. Sandpaper is used to grout the tray after this mixture has dried.

You can now begin embellishing your product. It could be a decorative stone, ceramic tiles, or mosaic. Brands that are resistant to moisture should be preferred.

Phases involved in installing a DIY shower tray

It is essential to use a specific glue for laying materials that is chemical-free and resistant to deterioration when exposed to moisture. Apply the adhesive to the pallet’s surface using a toothed trowel. Starting the work from the corner is the best approach. It is necessary to press the mosaic slightly when laying it out; if you are using tiles, a rubber mallet can be useful.

When the pallet’s exterior is tiled and its interior is mosaic-treated, you have options to think about and combine. However, each master already has the ability to control this.

• Dimensions of the shower stall, all variants
• Shower tray made with your own hands
• Repair of the shower cabin, how to make

Example of a brick foundation for a ceramic shower tray

Although the ceramic tray appears delicate, it can last for many years. This is an alternative form of the case foundation. For this kind of pallet, we assume that the frame is constructed only on the periphery, providing an extremely broad range of control viewpoints.

• It is necessary to lay bricks to the required height along two walls and one sidewall.
• The front part is used to access the siphon and control leaks. You can cover it with a decorative panel.

Place the pallet on two rows of bricks, one of which has a hole for control access and disassembly (in case the situation calls for it), in case you are extremely anxious. No one mounts intentionally, so it’s not necessary. Rather, is placed on three sides, mounted on silicone sealant, between the tile and the sanitary corner tray. You can leave little protrusions across the width of the brick row if you wish to hang a curtain from the sides. After setting a board there, raise the threshold to the appropriate level.

In situations where the corner is covered with a curtain and is handmade, this might be required. After that, there is a specific reserve for the movable matter to prevent spills and water from running to the ground. There are a few additional choices.

A metal tubing frame is frequently placed beneath the ceramic tray that was purchased. It just goes around the outside. It’s a pretty good solution for this kind of construction, provided that the cabin’s total weight doesn’t press downward. Leroy Merlin, for instance, claims that the tray weighs just 3 kg. If the cabin is slightly heavier, the frame is sound. In this instance, organizing the threshold is considerably more challenging for obvious reasons.

Insulation

A 50 mm (5 cm) thick layer of polystyrene foam insulation is applied to the bottom of the shower tray to provide insulation.

Generally speaking, a brick shower tray is designed to save costs, and installing insulation makes the job much more difficult. Nor is it just a matter of installing insulation. Covering the insulation with a screed is necessary before laying tiles on it. In order to create a screed on top of the insulation, roll waterproofing must be laid, and if using a basic "wet" CPS mixture, the screed itself may need to be reinforced with mesh. It makes more sense to insulate the shower’s floor by creating a concrete pallet instead of a brick.

As a result, instead of adding insulation, people frequently just raise the bottom of the brick pallet by stacking two layers of bricks and adding sewerage channels.

Installation of a shower tray with your own hands on bricks

Installing a shower tray on bricks using your hands is the simplest and most dependable method. The bricks should be further fixed with mortar, leveled, and evenly fixed with the aid of a level to guarantee the strength of the structure.

Ignoring this advice could result in excessive weight causing cracks and dents in the bottom. The shower tray must then be fixed to the mortar, leveled using a level and a mallet.

Bricks can have various materials pallets installed on them. Pallets made of steel or acrylic are occasionally arranged with just a protective curtain in place of doors and side panels.

This is an inexpensive choice that would be ideal for a country home or summer cottage that you do not frequently visit. Since it is not very comfortable to install a shower without doors in a home.

Because the steel pallet is so sturdy, only the sides’ material is needed to support it on bricks. One can leave the middle open.

To install the pallet without digging into the floor, the bare minimum of tools is needed:

• Pliers
• Keys for drainage
• Screwdriver
• Wooden hammer

Use a metal frame or other support elements to secure the pallet to the bricks. Apply silicone or foam sealants as sealants. However, keep in mind that silicone tends to darken with increased humidity, which can ruin the look.

Set the pallet atop the brickwork.

Using a construction level throughout the tray installation process is essential to achieving an even final product.

If it is not available, you can make do with a basic approach using makeshift tools.

Using a regular plate, set it on the pallet’s edge.

Then begin adding water to it little by little.

The edge that is beneath the slope and from which the water will flow more quickly.

Until the water from the plate does not start to flow evenly, level the tray and carry out the process again.

Shower trays come in various sizes, as was previously mentioned:

• Semicircular 80x80cm, 90x90cm, etc. д.
• Rectangular pallets – 70x85cm, 70x100cm, 70x120cm, 80x100cm, 80x120cm.
• Square pallets – 70x70cm, 80x80cm, 90x90cm, etc. д.
• Five-sided – 90x90cm, 100x100cm, 120×120, etc. д.

You get to decide which one to install based on your preferences and the bathroom’s measurements.

If you choose to create a floor recess, you should remove any tiles that may have been there before beginning installation of the shower tray. Concrete mortar should be used to reinforce the bricks that are placed along the shower’s edge.

To be sure, you can also place a few bricks in the center to stop the shower’s weight from causing the bottom to collapse. It’s important to remember where the drain pipe is located.

It is best to lay the bricks level so that the bricks slope slightly in the direction of the drain. Additionally, the support (bricks) should be positioned evenly if you intend to install the tray in an equally distributed manner.

Following that, the installation of a trap for the tray must be done. For this use, a 5 cm diameter PVC pipe works great. An angle, adapter, or corrugated pipe of the proper size is installed if the communications location calls for it.

These fixtures are available at any plumbing supply store. For dependable jointing, use sealant.

It is crucial to check the quality of the work with water after that. You can proceed to the next step if everything is flawless and there are no leaks in the connections.

Use assembly foam to secure the shower tray once it has been installed on the bricks. Wool, either plastic or ceramic, is wrapped around all sides. It is advised to place a skirting board or corner between the shower tray and the wall and to seal it with acrylic or silicone.

Determine the sealant’s curing time at a rate of 2 mm per day. The shower tray installation process is finished once it has dried.

You can install side panels, hang bathroom curtains, or hang curtains made of tempered glass from the sides. It already relies on your options and desires.

Building a shower tray from ceramic tiles

To allow for the potential installation of drainage equipment, the shower tray’s floor level is typically raised above the floor level of the entire space. Sewage pipes, for instance, are typically installed at floor level in apartments. The majority of private homes employ the same technique. Thus, the drain hole in the tray needs to be above floor level in order to guarantee the necessary slope.

The steps listed below should be followed in order to construct a pallet of tiles:

• First of all, the installation of the drain (drain neck) and the sewer pipe connecting it to the central sewer is carried out. For convenience, the pipes are laid on wooden blocks of different heights and fixed. The slope of the pipe should be 4-7 degrees, but not less than 3 degrees. Specialists advise using plastic drain and sewer pipes, as they are easy and reliable to install and are not subject to corrosion. But the drain grate should be purchased metal, such that it can freely support the weight of a person.

Prior to pouring the base, the drain is installed.

• After that, the floor formwork is assembled and the rough pouring with cement mortar is made. The mortar is made in the proportion of 1 part of cement to 3 parts of sand. The density of the mortar must be sufficient to fill the entire space inside the formwork. The thickness of the layer in the rough pouring should be carried out with such a calculation that the neck of the trap slightly protrudes above the level of the base, taking into account the fact that further will be made finish pouring and tile finishing. As a result, the drain should be located at the same level with the floor. Some craftsmen recommend that a small space around the drain neck should be covered with alabaster mortar. This is done in order to provide easy access to the sanitary units if necessary. Alabaster, unlike cement mortar, is easy to remove if necessary. After this operation, the base in the formwork should be left for a day.

It’s important to avoid creating voids when pouring the base.

• The next step is to install the formwork of the sump edge and pour it with cement mortar. Some experts advise that after the drying of the screed to make another treatment of the future tray with bitumen or moisture-insulating mastic.

Once the filling has fully dried, the final finishing is applied.

• After that, screeding of the pallet with the organization of the floor slope towards the drainage is carried out. To do this, with the help of a level, beacons are installed on the edges, and the mortar with the help of a trowel and trowels to form the desired slope. It should not be large, so that the floor is comfortable to stand on. Also, the finishing mortar is used to finish the edges of the tray from inside and outside.

The pallet’s interior surface has a finished slope that faces the drain.

• The next stage is actually tiling the pallet with tiles. Start tiling should be from the neck of the drain to trim tiles to do at the walls of the tray. Tile adhesive is applied with a toothed trowel. The size of the gap between the tiles can be maintained with the help of mounting crosses. The minimum width of the joints should be maintained. After the tile adhesive dries, the joints are grouted. At this stage, the work on the construction of the tray can be considered complete.

Tile palette used for decoration matches the overall interior design

Note: A few do-it-yourself artisans add a final step to the list of tasks that enhances the shower cabin’s comfort. This is how the cable floor heating is installed. When the floor is being rough-poured, the cable is laid.

Important points

1. The shower tray has a concrete base.
2. The tray is necessarily adjacent to one of the walls of the bathroom, it also serves as a barrier against water splashes.
3. Inside the concrete base with a slight slope, a drain is laid for draining water into the common sewerage system.
4. When erecting a pallet concrete base is treated with waterproofing solutions that contain cement. Additional waterproofing can serve as a layer of roofing felt, laid on the floor and walls (the height of overlapping material overlapping the plane of the walls is about 40-60 cm).
5. Facing tiles are laid using water-resistant glue, the joints are treated with special grout.

Selection Rules

If selecting a shower tray with curtains is an option, you should consider the following significant factors and criteria:

• Place of installation of the structure. When installed in the corner of the room, there will be no problems with the supply of communications, while when installed in the center of the water supply and sewerage may become an insurmountable obstacle. In the center of the room to place a tray with curtains should be located only in the case of a large square bathroom, with small dimensions should give preference to elements of the corner type, which will help to save space;
• Depending on the desire and size of the budget can be chosen as a prefabricated design, buying separately different elements, or buy a ready-made solution. In the first case, the purchase will be cheaper, but there may be difficulties during installation if the components do not match each other in terms of type of fixing or size;
• Safety. This is an important parameter in the choice, which varies depending on the type of covering of the tray. Fluted bottom, covered with an anti-slip layer, which will help to avoid falls, while when choosing a smooth floor should cover it with a rubber mat;
• Curb height. If the choice is made by a young family, it is advisable to give preference to high structures, but older people will be more comfortable to use a pallet with low sides, or one that is almost flush with the floor. The photo shows a variant of this design;

Crucial! Whichever style shower curtain and tray is preferred, it must have adequate water drainage and dependable waterproofing to prevent water from spilling onto the floor.

In any bathroom, shower trays with curtains are a creative and contemporary solution. In addition to making showering more comfortable, they also keep water off the walls and floor and preserve the room’s high-quality finish. Millions of people worldwide select these designs for bathroom organization because they combine practicality with minimalism, ease of use, and elegance. Additionally, you can find an option for any purse and any taste thanks to the variety of designs and materials available for their creation.

• Finishing of the bathroom with tiles (photo)
• Installation of pvc panels in the bathroom with your own hands
• Design of a small bathtub 3 squares with photos

3 Installation of the shower tray for each material has its own method

Installing acrylic shower trays is the simplest process. This is achieved by placing the bowl on its back and screwing in the included legs, which vary in number based on the model. The pallet might come with a frame, in which case the legs would need to be screwed into it. We install the drainage system in the following phase. As most of its components are threaded, assembling it shouldn’t be too tough. We advise sealing the seams with linen or specialized thread. Use silicone sealant to lubricate every joint.

The shower tray should be installed precisely level to prevent leaks.

It is preferable to construct a supporting wall out of bricks or blocks because the acrylic bowl may sink under the weight of an individual. After that, place the tray on the ground and raise it just enough so the siphon is off the surface. Shower trays should only be installed level; otherwise, there is a significant chance of leaks. An adhesive composition or sealant should be applied to the edges where the tray connects to the bathroom walls. In the last step, attach the sewage pipe and install a protective screen, if one is included.

Since the center portion of cast iron, steel, and other metal structures doesn’t need extra support, they are either placed on legs or a specially made frame. The only variation in the installation process is the use of assembly foam to fill the spaces between the tray and the base in order to insulate steel structures from noise.

There are specifics involved in installing ceramic trays and natural stone models. These structures are installed directly on the base, requiring no additional fasteners, and have an impressive weight.

However, because of its weight, the sanitary equipment is fairly delicate, so you must exercise caution when handling it to avoid breaking it.

Take extra care to install a trap and pay attention to the sewage system when installing heavy trays. Since the font is positioned directly on the capital base, a small niche where the drainage system and drainage will fit freely must be provided during the design phase and when pouring the foundation.

In addition, it is necessary to create a technological gap through which it will be easy to service the trap with your own hands in case of its failure. This place can be decorated later on by installing a hatch or a removable element of decoration. On the base, where the bowl will be attached, glue is applied, after which the pallet is installed on it, which is aligned strictly horizontally on all sides. After that, we wait for the complete drying of the adhesive solution and connect the sewer pipes to the trap. The place where the bowl touches the wall, treat with silicone sealant or tile adhesive to create a reliable hydrobarrier. If there is a desire, you can install a ceramic or plastic corner at the junction.

Once everything is finished, install the protective screen. If the pallet was fastened directly to the brick or block frame, then plaster, prime, and line the wall with the material that complements the bathroom’s interior design. Install glass doors or drape a waterproof curtain to keep splashes at bay. Because every model is different and may have unique characteristics, read through the instructions that come with the model before beginning any work.

Wouldn"t it be better to do it yourself Study the device of the sump

There is a huge selection of shower trays on sale, which manufacturers make from a variety of materials. The design of the sump is the same for all models. This is a shallow container equipped with a device for water drainage, designed for comfortable use of the shower. In most cases, the tank is equipped with legs or has a special shape that allows you to mount a drain in the bottom part of the drain and lead the sewer pipe to the common collector. The choice of shape and material of the tank depends on the room in which it will be used, the qualifications of the master who will install the tray, as well as on the financial capabilities of the buyer.

Making your own shower cabin with a factory-made tray is the simplest method. Additionally, if the bathroom’s dimensions and design are taken into consideration when choosing the tray’s shape, other factors might come into play when selecting the material:

• Acrylic trayshave a high strength, durability and are not subject to corrosion. This material is easy to give any shape, which is what manufacturers use. However, the material is easily deformed under dynamic loads and is very lightweight.

Trays made of acrylic are lightweight and easily distorted.

• Shower trays made of ironhave greater rigidity and resistance to deformation, but are prone to corrosion. In addition, thin metal has the property to vibrate and make a loud noise under the influence of water jets, which may not be to the liking of some owners. In addition, the choice of shapes of metal trays is much poorer.

Although the iron tray is noisy, it is simple to install.

• The walls of cast iron shower trays are thicker and therefore vibrate much less than metal ones, but they still make noise. Cast iron is durable, resistant to corrosion. However, the enamel that is used to cover the tray is prone to chipping, so the aesthetic appearance of the tray and its functionality can easily be lost.

Trays made of cast iron are robust, heavy, and resistant to corrosion.

• Artificial stone pallets, as well as ceramic trays have significant advantages over all of the above materials. They are durable, do not rust, the manufacturer can give these materials any color and shape, which makes it easier to choose. Their disadvantages are high price and the need for special skills of a master for quality installation. The above materials are easy to damage and splinter during the installation stage.

Installing artificial stone trays can be challenging due to their fragility.

However, there are drawbacks to using a factory-made sump in addition to benefits. A home handyman would often be better off investing a little more time and effort into creating a homemade pallet. This makes sense if the apartment or home’s owner is prepared to put in the work necessary to take advantage of one of the following benefits of a homemade pallet:

• Manufacturing of a tray that fully fits into the author"s bathroom design. The tray can be made of materials used in the decoration of the surrounding environment, in the color scheme of the bathroom and the shape that best suits the design.
• Making a homemade tray is justified when the dimensions of the bathroom require the use of a special shape or dimensions of the tray. This happens, for example, in houses of old construction, in which the area of the bathroom has a minimum size, and the bathroom is combined.
• Saving money. In many cases, the cost of making a homemade pallet is much lower than the cost of a purchased one.

Note: Essentially, a homemade tray is a section of floor with a specific geometry that is restricted to the sides and has water drainage equipment installed. Sometimes a bathroom’s or another room’s whole floor is utilized as a tray, set up in a certain way to let water flow into the sewer system.

The drawbacks of making your own shower tray can be traced to the high personal labor costs involved, the availability of the required equipment and expertise, or the willingness to pay for the services of hired laborers. Nevertheless, there are no obstacles that stop home masters from designing an interior that suits their own preferences and requirements.

How to install a shower tray made of acrylic

Acrylic models typically come with brackets for simple attachment, other fittings that make installation easier, and adjustable legs that can be fixed to the product already.

The product can be adjusted as horizontally as possible with respect to the floor by using an adjustable wrench and a level to adjust the legs.

One weakness of acrylic products is that their centers are frequently unsupported. For this reason, sturdy podiums or other supports are frequently used to hold acrylic shower trays. The strength of the tray will directly depend on the size of the current installation gap.

As a general rule, it’s critical to maintain clear access to the sewer pipes.

Proceed straight to the product installation after fortifying the bottom:

• is carried out marking – the structure is set horizontally with a construction level, marker / pencil line is drawn on the walls / tiles to accurately mark the marking not only the profile, but also the hole for the drain;
• The tray is temporarily removed, all parts of the drain are disconnected, and the drain outlet is connected to the sewer pipe;

• the siphon for the shower tray is combined with the drain in the siphon drain hole – the so-called gluing of pipes is performed, a seal is installed on the drain hole, and the tray itself is placed on top of it, then the drain funnel is screwed on;
• the central part is fixed – bricks are placed under the base, serving as a support, or steel pipes, and a layer of thick rubber on top, after which the structure is pushed in and fixed with silicone;
• the stall is connected to all necessary communications;
• the lower perimeter of the entire structure is lined with decorative panels, and the joints are carefully sealed with silicone sealant.

Tray designs

Shower cabins nowadays come with four different kinds of trays:

• Deep are so called because some of them are only slightly inferior to the bathtub in the height of their sides. A strong frame supports the bottom of the shower trays from below, supported by six height-adjustable legs.
• Small trays are more often called low trays. They are completely flat with few exceptions. In the modern version they are placed on 5 legs, but you can still get a completely bare "sink", which necessarily needs a foundation.
• Trays made of artificial stone and ceramics stand in a completely separate line. In all previous cases, there is a free space under the bottom for the installation of a trap, and in this case we are facing a slab with a drain hole in the center.
• Cast-iron ones are much rarer than steel ones, and they are often confused, but have won recognition for their durability at an acceptable price. They come in both deep and shallow, but complete cabins are sold extremely rarely. Cast iron trays have to be purchased separately.

Shower tray made of cast iron

It is evident that trays with thin walls do not have poor durability. This is because they are subjected to continuous mechanical deformation from various sources, such as temperature fluctuations and bathers’ feet. ABS, steel, and plastic reinforced with fiberglass are the materials used to make thin-walled trays. These materials are all prone to deformation and each has certain drawbacks.

1. The steel is colored, and the coating peels off easily. A metal pallet must have a properly arranged frame. For example, in the form of a solid brick foundation.
2. Acrylic pallet did not manage to get around the same disadvantages. But over time, it not only bends, but also begins to break down. About which there are plenty of videos on YouTube.

In addition to the characteristics listed above, steel rusts. The metal will start to oxidize as soon as the protective enamel coating comes off. This is made worse by the possibility that the owner won’t even notice the process. Thus, the steel will eventually have a hole in it. Acrylic does not react negatively to moisture, light, or mold, but it does weaken with time, just like any other plastic. A customer plays the lottery when making a purchase, either by being fortunate or unlucky (quality polymer or the first one).

The most advantageous choice is the cabin with a ceramic or artificial stone tray. Over human history, both materials have shown themselves to be flawless. The slabs’ complete flatness, which allows them to support themselves well on any appropriate pedestal foundation, is an additional benefit. Additionally, IDO cabins stand out because they roll on rollers rather than legs. As a result, the construction can be somewhat moved around the space (assuming the siphon and flexible connections are present). However, since it would not fall, you shouldn’t place it on the bricks.

Robust shower tray

The benefit of cast iron is that it doesn’t rust. The pallet is very strong because its walls are noticeably thicker—by an order of magnitude. The most resilient types are made of cast iron.

Brick foundation

Many people don’t give the task of laying a foundation enough thought. Conventional brick contributes to the solution. It’s a great solution for a ceramic shower tray, but you have to make sure there’s room for a trap. A well-built foundation significantly increases the pallet’s lifespan. The degree to which the bottom sticks to the pedestal will determine a lot. Any distortion is ideally avoided.

Here’s the issue. In the past, a lot of people would just set a flat pallet on top of bricks, or so that just the edges rested on them. Consequently, the number of damaged pallets increased at an astounding rate. The fifth leg was added by the manufacturers as soon as they realized there was a problem. The fifth leg is a lump of plastic with a threaded rod cut into it. It is nearly hard to get rid of it. You understand that this is no longer the place for a flat foundation; instead, you must leave a dip beneath this "fifth leg."

A shower’s brick foundation

Bricks are very adaptable. For example, they are arranged fan-outward with pumper faces at the perimeter bend. Mortar is placed in the empty space. Such a plan is frequently applied to acrylic pallets.

It’s crucial to allow room for leakage control in this situation. Determining that concrete will prevent moisture from reaching the neighbors will be ineffective.

It takes extra precautions to make the floor waterproof. And anyway, there has to be some way to manage the dryness.

Step-by-step instructions for making a shower tray with your own hands from concrete and brick

When building a pallet on your own, it’s crucial to adhere to the steps listed and the fundamental installation guidelines. Prior to starting the product’s manufacturing process, the placement must be decided upon and its dimensions must be accurately calculated.

When building, brick and concrete are most frequently utilized. There are multiple steps that follow one another in the manufacturing process of the structure.

Pouring the screed

A thinner layer of mortar will result in brittle and short-lived screed.

A necessary step in the building process is screeding. Either specialized bituminous mastic or polyethylene film should be used to waterproof the bathroom floor. The recommended range for the mortar layer thickness is 30 to 80 mm.

Once more, the dried screed is primed and waterproofed. High humidity in the bathroom is prevented by waterproofing and multilayer primer, which causes an unpleasant stench to emerge.

You must apply a second layer of a specific self-leveling mixture for construction once the screed has hardened.

Mounting the drain

One crucial step in the independent construction of a shower tray is the installation of a drain.

It is essential to install the drain correctly and to a high standard because it is very difficult to fix flaws that arise after construction. Installing the pipes that will allow water to enter the sewer system should come first when installing the drain; these pipes need to be firmly and securely fastened inside the tray.

Crucial suggestions for gutter installation:

• The place of drainage should be connected to the sewer with a slope of about 3°. This arrangement ensures optimum flow velocity, prevents stagnation of the liquid and the formation of blockages.
• The joints of the elements that make up the construction must be completely airtight.
• The drainage drain must be fixed firmly.

Erection of the curb

Curbs can be formed with bricks or concrete mortar as appropriate.

Curbs should be installed around the screed’s perimeter after it has fully dried. Brick edging requires less time to install and is uniform.

A formwork made of wooden boards that is no thicker than 40 mm is required for the formation of concrete curbs. The formwork is taken down once the concrete mortar has solidified.

Since borders make up the future shower structure, they should precisely replicate the tray’s shape.

Pouring the inner screed of the pallet

It is advised to incorporate liquid glass—a hydro-repellent material—into the cement mortar’s composition.

Following the installation of the beams, the last screed is poured.

Before pouring, beacons need to be installed. The screed should slope slightly in the direction of the gangway, depending on where it is located.

It is vital to confirm that the slab is sturdy and dependable prior to the last pour of the internal screed.

Waterproofing

The final waterproofing of the working surface must be done after the screed inside the structure has completely dried. A unique mixture is applied to the brick or concrete curbs and the poured screed.

Applying the waterproofing carefully is important because the sump lining will come next. The tiles are affixed with a specific waterproof adhesive, so a thin layer of waterproofing is required.

Cladding

The pallet’s face is the most artistic part of its production.

The last phase of construction is tiling. The finishing material must be arranged on a dry surface according to the primary rule. The tiles are first placed on the pallet’s horizontal surface, and then they are placed along its edges. It is advised to lay tiles on the boards’ sides first, followed by their upper surface.

It is essential to use specialized grout to fill in the spaces between the tiles once the water-resistant glue has dried.

Strict adherence to the technology used in the structure’s construction will guarantee the original pallet’s quick and simple construction. Three key requirements for the product are quality waterproofing, durability, and reliability.

Let"s get to work

Using your hands to mount When building with sides, a metal frame is needed. This necessitates that novices understand some of the process’s technology, as their absence may present challenges for home masters.

Starting with the metal frame assembly is necessary to ensure that the pallet is positioned correctly in the level. To carry out this, you ought to:

• turn the pallet upside down, so that to its bottom self-tapping screws to attach the supporting beams, the dimensions of the square section of which are 0.1×0.1 cm. If the design provides space for bolts in the proper places, then assemble the frame with the help of fasteners;

Metal structure

• Depending on the shape of the sanitary ware and to achieve maximum strength of the pipes are fastened with their own hands crosswise, or parallel;
• At the end of the support tubes there are special holes where the studs are mounted, which serve as legs to support the entire structure. Each stud has footpads resting on the base. On the other side, the studs are fixed with washers or nuts;

Assembling the frame

• the frame is assembled, now it is necessary to turn it over, install it in the desired place. Before fixing the tray, using its dimensions and holes, draw markings on the walls and floor. If a corner version is preferred, then with the help of special brackets, the design is fixed to the walls, the joints between which are eventually processed with a sealant;
• When all the fasteners are screwed to the base, it is necessary to adjust the tray to the horizon line using a level. High-quality installation will ensure unobstructed drainage of water into the sewer pipe. The final touches are performed by adjusting the thrusters or screwing the studs, which need to be tightened with lock nuts;

Changing the shower tray’s legs

• now the siphon should be installed. It is desirable that it has a flexible tube, which allows you to adjust the dimensions in length and height of the structure. First, a grid is installed in the drain, smeared with sealant, then a gasket is applied and the tee is fastened with a screw. We insert the outlet into the sewer, which is pre-sealed with additional gaskets, and as a result it is fixed with a coupling. Connect the other side of the siphon tube to the connecting assembly, which should be lubricated with sealant and sealed with a gasket;

Linkage to the sewage system

Connecting the cold and hot water supplies is required after physically installing the trap and inspecting all of its connections. All joints are sealed with FUM tape or sealants to prevent leaks.

When it comes to home remodeling, picking and installing the ideal shower tray can have a significant impact on both appearance and usability. Knowing your options is crucial before making a decision, as there are numerous varieties available, ranging from stone resin to acrylic, each with unique advantages and installation specifications. Learn how to install a shower tray yourself to save time and money, regardless of your style preference—slim, modern, or traditional. This post will walk you through the process of installing a shower tray correctly, covering everything from leveling and measuring to sealing and drainage considerations. With this knowledge, you’ll be able to improve your bathroom space with ease and confidence.

Tools and materials necessary for construction

In order to construct a pallet by hand, you will require the following tools:

• a drill with various attachments;
• hammer;
• roller;
• trowel;
• chisel;
• marking tools (ruler, pencil);
• trowel;
• level.

The following items make up the set of materials:

• cement;
• bitumen or special waterproofing compound;
• grout;
• beacons for pouring the internal screed;
• waterproof glue;
• tape measure;
• Brick for making the pouring edges of the future construction;
• self-leveling compound;
• tiles;
• drain (downspout);
• wood for formwork (in the case of making concrete curbs);
• sewer pipes.

Installation procedure

Now that everything has been purchased and the room is ready, installation can begin.

1. Turn the tray upside down and install the feet included in the kit. The space between the bottom and the floor will later be protected by a special panel – measure its height and adjust the legs so that they are of the appropriate length. For this you will need a wrench. Turning the leg clockwise will shorten it, and counterclockwise will lengthen it. During these works, do not remove the protective layer from the pallet, so that the surface is not scratched.
2. Then fix special brackets on the edges of the structure, on which the side panel will be fixed.
3. Put the pallet in the place intended for it and once again use a construction level to check the flatness of the surface location. In case of any deviations, adjust the legs accordingly until the flatness is perfect. Then check whether the side panel fits between the tray and the floor, but do not fasten it yet.
4. Now make the connection to the sewerage system. Insert the siphon into the corresponding hole in the tray. Then fix the flexible hose or tube in it. On its other end attach the elbow pipe, which, in turn, is inserted into the opening of the sewage drain so that it enters completely. By the way, instead of a siphon sometimes just a hose is used, but in this case it is necessary to form its bend with the help of special plastic components included in the equipment. The curved design is necessary to prevent the penetration of unpleasant odors from the sewer drain into the bathroom room.
5. Now take a water-resistant silicone-based sealant and a special gun for it. Process all the places where the elements of the sewer drain are joined. That is, you need to seal the connection of the siphon with the tray and the hose, the hose with the spigot and the spigot with the drain. Then wait a couple hours for the sealant to cure. Only then proceed to further work.
6. Check the function of the siphon. Fill it with a fairly large amount of water. After she leaves, carefully inspect all connection elements and the floor beneath them to ensure there are no leaks.
7. If everything is in order, then once again check the levelness of the installed and connected tray with the help of a construction level.
8. Apply to the sides of the pallet adjacent to the wall, mounting adhesive or the same sealant, thereby ensuring a strong connection. The feet should be glued to the floor in the same way to prevent the tray from moving around on the floor during use. Wait for the fixing agents to dry.
9. Then we fix the side panel on the pre-installed brackets, at the end of the procedure we press the special clips.
10. In the end we need to treat with waterproof silicone sealant all the joints of the tray with the walls and the floor. To avoid dirtying the equipment, stick painter"s tape along all the joints, i.e. on the bottom and sides of the panel, as well as around the perimeter of the surface of the pallet. Fill any gaps you have with sealant and immediately tidy up the seam with a narrow trowel or just a wet finger. Without waiting for the silicone to dry, remove the tape.

There is still a day to go before the sealant fully cures. The pallet is then fully prepared for use. To prevent flying water splashes into the room, you will obviously need to install additional corner components, such as vertical panels, a door, or a special curtain.

You can read more about shower stall installation in-depth in other articles on our building and maintenance website. And you will now be able to handle the tray with ease and simplicity. The most important thing is to remember to use a waterproof sealant and construction level constantly while working. These two easy steps will ensure that your work is dependable and of excellent quality.

Watch the video that is linked below for more visual information. This will enable you to see the workmanship even more clearly. And with that, we bid you a brief farewell and wish you luck as you organize your bathroom!

Shower Tray Type	Installation Process
Acrylic	Measure area, create a level base, apply adhesive, fit tray, seal edges.
Stone Resin	Prepare area, level surface, apply adhesive, place tray, secure and seal.

For your bathroom, selecting the ideal shower tray is crucial for both practicality and style. A vast range of options are available to accommodate every taste and budget, ranging from classic acrylic trays to contemporary stone resin options.

Many people choose to do their own installation in order to save money and tailor the procedure to their preferences. To guarantee a long-lasting and waterproof seal, it is imperative to adhere to the recommended installation methods.

A perfect fit for the tray should be chosen before starting the installation process, so make sure to measure the area precisely. Don’t forget to take into account things like your drainage system and flooring type, as these will affect how the installation goes.

After choosing the suitable tray, carefully follow the installation instructions provided by the manufacturer. This usually entails getting the subfloor ready, sealing it, and fastening the tray. Take your time and make sure you check everything twice to prevent any mistakes that can cause instability or leaks.

Give the sealant enough time to fully dry after installing the shower tray before utilizing the shower. Its lifespan can be increased and optimal performance can be ensured with routine maintenance, such as cleaning the tray and looking for any signs of wear or damage.

In conclusion, installing a shower tray yourself is a doable do-it-yourself project that can improve the look and feel of your bathroom. You can have a chic and useful shower area for many years to come if you choose the right tray and use the right installation methods.

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