Top combustion boiler with your own hands

A top combustion boiler has the potential to revolutionize the way your home is heated, both effectively and efficiently. These boilers are made to burn solid fuels, such as coal or wood, to produce consistent warmth with the least amount of energy expenditure. But what if you were able to construct one? That’s right, do-it-yourselfers can create a top combustion boiler for their homes with relative ease, adding warmth and comfort and the satisfaction of completing a project by hand.

Although building your own top combustion boiler may seem like a difficult undertaking, it is completely doable with the correct resources and advice. By learning the fundamentals of combustion boilers and assembling the required parts, you can start a fruitful do-it-yourself project that will produce a dependable heating system that meets your needs.

Customization is one of the main advantages of building your own top combustion boiler. You are free to select the features, size, and design that best fit your needs and style of house. DIY gives you the flexibility to customize the project to your unique needs, whether you’re looking for a larger boiler to meet the needs of a larger household or a smaller unit to fit in a small space.

In the long run, building your own top combustion boiler can prove to be a financially advantageous option, in addition to providing customization benefits. Even though buying a pre-made boiler can be expensive, you can save a lot of money by gathering the components and putting the unit together yourself. Furthermore, your do-it-yourself boiler can give dependable heating for many years to come with good care and maintenance, making it a great investment for your time.

Boiler design with upper chamber

The essence of the work, if you do not go too deep, is as follows:

  • two steel bodies of the same shape but different size (usually cylindrical) are taken and carefully joined together;
  • The larger body is the outer casing of the boiler, and the smaller one is the furnace;
  • The space between them is filled with water, which plays the role of coolant;
  • The smaller construction is also divided into 2 parts by an air distributor, in one part the fuel is burned, and in the other part the pyrolysis gas is afterburning;
  • The air distributor is a telescopic tube, to which at one end there is welded a platform with blades that allow to distribute evenly the gas produced by the combustion of fuel;
  • from the other end through the distributor directly into the combustion zone air is supplied, necessary to maintain the process;
  • as the fuel burns down, the distributor is lowered down and the air supply is carried out to the next level;
  • The parameters of the working process are controlled by automatic control devices, so the boiler requires connection to the power grid;

For work you will need

  • a set of drawings or at least a schematic diagram showing a sufficient number of dimensions;
  • welding machine, 2-3 packs of electrodes;
  • large and small angle grinders (if there are no such, you can take a regular jigsaw, it will take longer);
  • several cutting and a pair of grinding wheels Ø 125 and 230 mm (or a couple of metal saws for a jigsaw);
  • 130 cm long and 50 cm Ø 50 cm thick pipe. walls – 3 mm;
  • 150 cm long and Ø 45 cm pipe, thickness. walls – 3 mm; if you do not have such, you can take a couple of metal sheets 1250x2500x2,5 mm and find a company where they will be rolled, then using welding to make 2 pipes;
  • pipe Ø 5.7-6 cm and a length of 120 cm;
  • two rings Ø 50 cm and a width of 2.5 cm (can be cut from a sheet of metal, or bent from a 25×25 mm angle);
  • a sheet of metal for making a loading door and a hatch for ash cleaning;
  • two sets of hinges, handles, gate valves;
  • a couple of pieces of channel or angle for making legs and impeller;
  • Asbestos cloth to put in the doors (so that they do not get too hot and to reduce heat loss);
  • Asbestos cord for sealing the firebox door and ash pan hatch;

Manufacturing process

  1. We take pipes of 150 and 130 cm in diameter, put them one into another and connect them with the help of a ring made of 25×25 mm angle bar.
  2. From a sheet of metal cut out a circle Ø 45 cm and weld the bottom of the inner pipe. A barrel Ø 45 cm around which a water heating circuit with a width of 2.5 cm is welded should be formed.
  3. In the bottom of the "barrel" cut a rectangular hole with a width of 15-16 cm and a height of 8-10 cm. This will be the ash pan door. Weld the ash pan hatch, attach the door, which we will equip with hinges and a latch.

  • In the upper part of the "water jacket" cut a rectangular hole for loading fuel (the dimensions should be sufficient for convenient loading of firewood). Weld the loading hatch, equip the door, equip it with hinges and a latch. It is better to make double doors, having laid an asbestos gasket between the metal sheets and sealed the places of adjoining with asbestos cord. This will reduce the heat losses of the boiler. In the upper part of the body we cut a door for fuel deposit, weld the door
  • Also in the upper part of the boiler we weld in the outlet pipe, through which the completely burnt gases will go out into the chimney. Weld the flue pipe
  • On the top and bottom of the water jacket we weld sockets Ø 40-45 mm for connection to the heating system. Cut threads. Weld the fittings for connecting the heating circuit
  • We soap all welding seams well and press the boiler jacket with pressure not less than 2 kgcm 2. Carefully check the quality of the welds, if necessary, correct any defects.
  • We’re going to start building the air distributor now.

    1. From a sheet of metal cut out a circle with a diameter 2-3 cm smaller than the inner Ø of the boiler, approximately 42-43 cm. In its center cut a hole Ø 5,7-6 cm (according to the Ø of the air distributor pipe).
    2. Insert the pipe of the air distributor into the hole and join everything with a sealed seam.

  • On the bottom surface of the metal pancake weld pieces of channel or angle bar in the form of blades (you can use an impeller from a fan, if the thickness of the blades is suitable).
  • At the other end we weld a hinge, which will be used to raise and lower the construction and adapt a damper to adjust the air supply to the combustion zone. Air distributor The air distributor is ready. From the metal sheet cut out a circle of Ø 50 cm, in the center of which cut a hole of Ø 7-8 cm. Insert the air distributor into the boiler, insert the upper end of the pipe into the hole and weld the boiler top cover tightly. To the hinge of the air distributor we attach a cable by means of which the distributor will be raised and lowered through the block. Boiler pyrolytic long combustion assembled All, pyrolytic boiler of long combustion, made with your own hands is ready, you can proceed to testing. The same design, but a little more complex have boilers Stropuva or Buran, reviews about the work of which are very good. The video presents another variant of the boiler with a top furnace of pyrolysis gas combustion. Here you can clearly see the division of furnaces and demonstrated even the combustion process itself. There is another boiler of similar design and principle of operation. It is called "Bubafonya". maybe you will like it more.
  • Pyrolysis boiler with a lower chamber

    Scheme of the pyrolysis boiler of long combustion with a lower chamber of combustion of wood gas is somewhat more complicated and its manufacture will require a little more cost and effort. First of all, it should be understood that boilers of this type also come in two types: with a supercharger and with a smoke pump. Without going into the details of physics and heat engineering, let"s outline the fundamental difference. In the first case, the secondary air is blown into the combustion chamber by means of a fan. It creates excessive pressure in the chamber (higher than atmospheric pressure). The advantages of this design can be attributed to the fact that the fan you will fit any, even a computer cooler and you can combine the furnace with the afterburning chamber, t. к. with the help of the supercharger it is possible to provide a sufficiently large volume of excess air. However, this "advantage" can also be considered as a disadvantage, t. к. it does not allow to raise the boiler efficiency above 80-82%. Under pressure, some of the air simply does not get to the middle of the combustion process, so the fuel does not burn completely. Plus, because of the excess pressure, some of the pyrogases simply do not have time to burn and flies down the chimney in pure form, so to ensure efficiency of 90% is virtually impossible. And most importantly, if the boost is too strong, the boiler may explode. Pyrolysis boiler with air injection In the second case with the help of exhaust fan creates insufficient pressure (below atmospheric), so the outside air, obeying the force of Coriolis, gets right where it should, screwed into the very center of combustion. The pyrolysis burns completely, the boiler works at full capacity and is able to produce an efficiency of 90%, and sometimes even more. Boilers with lower combustion chamber are much more complicated structurally. One of them, which is made with their own hands by a master welder, is demonstrated in the video.

    Installation of pyrolysis boilers

    It is important to keep in mind that pyrolysis boilers are not permitted in residential settings when installing heating systems. Failure to comply with this regulation may result in fines from the relevant services in addition to possible health risks. As a result, the boiler room layout needs to be thought through beforehand. It is essential to follow these fire safety guidelines when installing the boiler on your own:

    • keep the distance to the walls of the boiler room (at least 30 cm);
    • equip a non-combustible foundation (concrete or asbestos), not connected with the main floor covering of the boiler room;
    • Ensure a good ventilation system in the boiler room, because. к. fresh air supply is necessary for good operation of the pyrolyzer;
    • insulate the chimney well (e.g., wrap it with minwool and foil) to prevent the boiler room roof from catching fire;

    The principle of operation of a long-burning boiler, made with your own hands using drawings.

    It takes less time and effort to heat the house when you install a solid fuel boiler in a country home instead of using a furnace. It also comes with water heating installed. The models with the longest burning mode are the most well-liked. Experts’ experience indicates that they can construct a boiler like this by hand using pre-made blueprints.

    Principle of operation

    • fuel economy – they can work on one load from 6 hours to 5 days;
    • high efficiency, 90-95%;
    • environmental friendliness – the smoke contains few gases and soot harmful to the atmosphere;
    • safety – the smoke at the outlet has a temperature of 120-160 degrees Celsius;
    • high level of process automation.

    The following are drawbacks of buying long-burning boilers:

    • tendency to the appearance of condensate on the walls of the heat exchanger and chimney;
    • high requirements for the moisture content of fuel – no more than 16%;
    • high price, sometimes 1.5-2 times higher than the cost of conventional solid fuel boilers.

    Long-burning boilers’ unique design and internal physical processes are what give them their exceptional efficiency. They can be produced without the need for sophisticated technologies or costly materials. The majority of boilers are constructed using welding and consist of sheet steel. As a result, if you know how to operate a welding machine, you can create a boiler by hand.

    Choice of design

    You should think about the long-burning boiler’s typical designs and operation principle before you begin creating drawings by hand. and decide which is the easiest and most economical.

    Pyrolysis boilers can be classified into two categories based on the kind of apparatus they use:

    • with upper combustion – shaft boilers;
    • with bottom combustion.

    What do these qualities signify? It’s very straightforward: the gas generation zone’s location is indicated by the type of combustion.

    Fuel is loaded into shaft type boilers via a door at the top of the firebox. The combustion process begins at the surface of the entire fuel volume. The smoke produced by this process travels through the thickness of the firewood to the lower part of the furnace, where it burns and becomes enriched with air thanks to forced supercharging. In this instance, the firewood burns more steadily and with additional heat.

    In bottom combustion boilers, the afterburning chamber is at the top and the furnace is at the bottom. They move air naturally through a draught, so no forced air blowing is necessary. One benefit of these boilers is that they are not dependent on the electrical grid. Minus: lower loading volume and efficiency, which reduces the amount of time that the system can run continuously.

    The working principle of a homemade pyrolysis boiler is demonstrated in this video.

    The most basic type of boiler is cylindrical in shape. They have a heat exchanger encircling the furnace, and heat is removed from the furnace chamber all the way around. You can construct a boiler like this by hand using two different-diameter metal pipes or sheet iron.

    How to do it yourself?

    Using your own hands, assemble the boiler in accordance with the final drawing displayed in the figure. Although the drawing’s dimensions may be slightly altered, it’s still important to pay attention to the proportions.

      The principle of operation of this heating unit is as follows:

    The boiler room ceiling should be at least 2.8 meters high in order to raise the fuel distributor to the maximum loading level!

    • The fuel smolders, giving off flue gases, which burn out in the upper part of the firebox. Such a boiler can be heated with wood, sawdust, pellets, as well as wood waste – chips, wood shavings, construction waste. For each type of fuel it is necessary to select a different mode of air supply.

    Unlike factory models, the boiler’s design is not airtight, so it needs to be installed in a boiler room with adequate ventilation because burning wood releases harmful carbon monoxide among other fumes.

    Although the device’s efficiency is not as high as that of its industrial counterparts, this drawback is not as significant given the cost of manufacturing.

    Materials and tools required

    Since welding is used to assemble the boiler, having a welding machine and the know-how to operate it is essential. Two to three packs of electrodes with the right diameter are also required for manual welding.

    A Bulgarian drill with cutting wheels is needed to cut the material, and grinding wheels are also needed to clean the seams.

    You also need the following measuring and marking tools: an angle, a tape measure, a marker, and circles for marking circles.

    A compressor is required in order to press the final product.

      Materials and purchased products:

    Manufacturing of the body and heat exchanger

    The body of the boiler is assembled first.

      . As the most responsible node, subjected to significant thermal loads. Other parts are adjusted with such a condition to create the most hermetic design and avoid smoke leaks and heat loss.

    • In the lower part of the inner pipe make a rectangular-shaped hole for the ash pan door. The door itself can be made of sheet metal or install a ready-made cast-iron door. Thermal insulation of the door is not necessary – there will be no high temperatures at the bottom of the furnace, so the door can be made single. It must necessarily be equipped with a latch, tightly closing the door, otherwise there will be air inflow, which will disturb the oxygen balance in the boiler.

    • The door of the furnace chamber is placed in the upper part of the body. Here the temperature regime will be more severe, so the door is better to make with your own hands from sheet metal, and make it double, as in the photo, with a gasket of two layers of asbestos. This, firstly, will create better thermal insulation and help to avoid burns, and secondly, it will increase its rigidity, and the door will not move when heating the furnace. The door is similarly equipped with a tight shutter.

    • On the side or at the back of the upper part of the casing, a flue pipe from a profiled pipe with a hole for connection to the chimney is welded in. In this case, pay special attention to the quality of the seams on the outer and inner sides of the jacket – due to the incorrectly selected mode, condensate can form here, and in combination with flue gases, it contributes to corrosion. Welds with sinks and unremoved scale are the most susceptible to corrosion.

    • In the upper and lower parts of the water jacket welded spigots for the supply and outlet of the coolant. They are made from scraps of inch pipe of the required length, with a thread on the outer end. It is more convenient to place the pipes on the side of the boiler, away from the flue pipe, so that the smoke exhaust and heating systems can be easily serviced.
    • The boiler body is equipped with legs made of scraps of angle or channel – so it will be more convenient to adjust it during installation.
    • A removable lid with a diameter of 46 cm with a hole in the center of 6.5 cm is made – it will be installed in tension on the body.
    • All parts and seams are cleaned with a bolgar and covered with a heat-resistant paint based on siliconorganics, designed for painting furnace elements and automotive gas removal systems – it can withstand heating up to a temperature of at least 800 degrees Celsius.

    Air distributor

    The air distributor is a crucial component. It is preferable to use thick metal for it, at least 5 mm. First of all, because it is in the zone of active combustion, it may deform and finally burn out if its thickness is too small. Secondly, the fuel mass will be better pressed by the air distributor if it is thicker.

    1. A 38 cm diameter circle is cut out of metal with a hole in the center Ø 6 cm. A Ø 6 cm pipe with a length of 120 cm is tightly welded to the hole. This pipe will bring air into the combustion zone.
    2. In the lower part of the distributor it is necessary to weld the impeller – diverging air ducts made of 25 mm angle or channels. Their number can be different, the more channels, the more evenly the fuel will burn.
    3. In the upper part of the pipe it is necessary to install a gate valve or gate valve to regulate the air flow, as well as to provide a loop for attaching a chain, by which the distributor will be raised to the upper position.

    The boiler must have forced supercharging installed in order for it to operate on coal. In this instance, the distributor pipe is telescopic, and a blowing fan is located in its upper section.

    A long-burning boiler should be leveled and set on a level surface. Severe misalignment could impede coolant circulation.

    The air distributor is inserted into the furnace, and a cover is placed on top. The cover is secured to the body either by welding or by using asbestos cord to create tension while sealing.

    Attach the chimney’s flue pipe. Connect the heating system’s pipes to the water jacket’s spigots.

    The boiler can be ignited after the system is filled. It must first be tested with an incomplete batch of fuel to adjust the modes before it can be fully loaded and operated.

    Even though it has a simple appearance, this type of boiler can effectively solve the heating problem by heating a workshop, garage, or village or country house.

    Our goal in writing this guide, "Top combustion boiler with your own hands," is to equip homeowners with the information and abilities necessary to construct a reliable and reasonably priced heating system for their homes. We’ll examine the basic processes and factors involved in the construction of a combustion boiler by concentrating on it. These include choosing the right materials and assembling and installing the system. Regardless of your level of experience doing do-it-yourself projects or lack thereof, this post will offer helpful advice and doable solutions to assist you in designing a dependable and environmentally friendly heating system that meets your needs.

    Solid fuel long-burning boiler with their own hands drawings

    A solid-fuel long-burning boiler is a common choice despite the vast array of heating appliances available on the market. When gasification and electrification are unavailable in remote locations, this unit can serve as the primary source of heating. It’s an affordable, dependable, and effective way to heat a country home, a city cottage, or a summer cottage.

    Homemade continuous-combustion TT boiler

    In contrast to a traditional boiler, which derives its primary heat from the flame, the TT boiler of prolonged combustion operates through an entirely distinct mechanism. This post will cover the installation plan and drawings for a solid fuel long-burning boiler that can be completed by hand.

    The principle of operation of a long-burning boiler

    For 6-7 hours of combustion in traditional solid fuel units, one tab is sufficient. As a result, the temperature in the room will drop right away if more resources are not added to the furnace. This is due to the fact that the room’s primary heat source moves around based on the free gas movement principle. The flame heats the air, which rises and moves outside.

    With one lay of firewood, the long-burning boiler’s thermal resource is sufficient for one to two days. Certain models have a seven-day heat retention period.

    Is this the reason it’s so effective and economical?

    The boiler’s operating scheme

    The TT long-burning boiler can be identified from a conventional boiler by having two combustion chambers operating simultaneously. The fuel itself burns in the first standard, and in this case, the released gases burn in the second.

    A timely supply of oxygen, which is supplied by a fan, is crucial to this process.

    It took until recently to realize such a principle. When the Lithuanian company Stropuva first introduced this technology in 2000, it quickly became well-known and respected.

    Homemade boiler with a long burn time

    In the modern world, when gasification is not present and power outages occur, it is the most economical and useful method of heating a rural home.

    These devices operate on the basis of top fuel combustion. All furnaces have a furnace at the bottom, which makes it possible to draw cold air from the floor, heat it, and then raise it upward.

    This boiler works on a somewhat similar principle to the pyrolysis boiler. The primary source of heat release is not the burning of solid fuel, but rather the gases that are released during this process.

    The actual combustion process happens in a confined area. The released gas enters the second chamber through the telescopic tube, where it completely burns and mixes with cold air that is pumped in by a fan.

    The TT long-burning boiler plan

    This is an ongoing process that lasts until all of the fuel is consumed. A temperature as high as 1200 degrees Celsius is reached during such combustion.

    As was already mentioned, this boiler has two chambers: a large main chamber and a smaller one. The large chamber is filled with the fuel itself. It has a 500 cubic meter capacity.

    Any solid fuel source, including sawdust, coal, firewood, and pallets, can be used for combustion.

    A fan that is built in provides constant air supply. This method’s advantage is its extremely slow consumption of solid fuel.

    This considerably raises the heater’s cost-effectiveness. Why does wood burn so much more slowly than conventional stoves?

    The key point is that because the fan blows air from above, only the top layer burns. Furthermore, the fan only adds air once the top layer has fully burned through.

    Many models that operate on the same principle are currently available on the market, but their economies and efficiency vary based on factors such as dimensions, execution material, and extra options.

    The ability of Universal TT boilers to operate on any fuel will greatly simplify operations for their owners. A wood-fired, continuous-combustion TT boiler is a more affordable choice. It can only run on firewood; other fuels cannot be added to it.

    Peculiarity of the design

    The fuel is kept in an impressively large chamber found in every long-burning boiler. The boiler will burn wood for a longer period of time in a larger chamber.

    TT long-burning boilers are a good example of two technologies that are currently available and effectively compete with one another. This is the basic idea behind the Stropuv and Bulerian methods.

    In Russia, this method is not very common because of the high cost of Stropuv and the intricate construction process. However, in accordance with the Bulerian method, country houses and summer houses’ heating systems are designed by devoted folk craftsmen.

    The boiler is described by the Bulerian method as having two chambers inside a metal body. Fuel combustion occurs in the lower chamber, while gas entering through the tube from the first chamber burns in the second chamber.

    Since the entire lower portion of the boiler drum is set aside for a substantial resource deposit, the door for loading fuel is located in the upper portion of the drum.

    A flue pipe that connects to the chimney is located in the upper portion of the boiler. The boiler is cleaned via the ash chamber located in the lower section.

    There is one more nuance that deserves to be mentioned. The ash pan in conventional stoves functions as a blowhole, allowing air to be blown in for combustion. Because air enters through the upper air chamber, which serves as a recuperator, the ash chamber in this instance is completely hermetic.

    The damper at the top of the air chamber controls the boiler’s oxygen supply. The distributor is lowered as the fuel gradually settles as the firewood burns. This guarantees a steady flow of oxygen.

    All that is needed to bring the distributor back to its starting position at fresh fuel loading is a simple upward pull. You can quickly ascertain how much fuel is left in the boiler and when to perform the next loading by looking at the position of this lever.

    The environmental friendliness of this heating option deserves its own discussion. There is essentially no carbon dioxide released into the atmosphere as a result of the full combustion of the fuel and gases.

    The primary components of the boiler with TT long burning

    The boiler’s CT’s principal components are:

    1. Furnace chamber. This is the main element of any boiler and furnace where direct combustion of fuel takes place.
    2. Gas combustion chamber. This is where the hot gases from smoldering wood come in.
    3. ash pan – ashes are collected here. This unit must be systematically cleaned to maintain the boiler in a technically serviceable condition.
    4. Smoke outlet – a node through which combustion products are discharged to the outside.

    A steel case, consisting of 5–6 mm thick sheet metal, encloses each of these nodes.

    Advantages and disadvantages

    A large cottage would make sense to heat with such a unit due to its large dimensions and intricate design. However, this option is not appropriate for a small cottage because it does not make sense financially.

    • high efficiency (about 95%);
    • autonomy of the heating system;
    • economical efficiency;
    • reliability and durability;
    • high efficiency;
    • fuel availability;
    • environmentally friendly option for heating the house;
    • versatility of fuel (coal, wood, sawdust, sawdust, pillets).
    • bulky construction;
    • it is necessary to equip a special room for the device;
    • complexity of construction and installation;
    • need for constant cleaning.

    Since long-burning boilers are far more expensive than conventional stoves, they do not need to be purchased pre-made. You can create such a design on your own if you have some construction and repair experience.

    The way the handcrafted construction looks

    There are several benefits to the DIY design over the factory analog.

    • low cost price;
    • the ability to make the boiler universal for any type of fuel;
    • the possibility of improving the design and adding power.

    The boiler’s cylindrical shape is the only challenge. It is very difficult to give the metal this shape without a rolling machine.

    However, a good fix exists. Any pipe with an appropriate diameter can be used, as can empty propane cylinders. It is imperative to select pipes with a minimum wall thickness of 5 mm.

    You can construct a small brick stove and take pleasure in its efficiency for a village or a small cottage. However, this option will be less feasible for a large cottage because it will need a substantial amount of firewood for the winter. Maintaining a conventional furnace is far more difficult than caring for a long-burning boiler, and significant temperature swings in rooms far from the furnace make it impossible to create a pleasant microclimate in your home.

    The best course of action in this case is to construct a long-burning solid fuel boiler on your own.

    Useful tips for making a TT boiler

    • If you want to make the TT boiler universal from the position of the use of raw materials, then for the furnace chamber use a pipe made of heat-resistant alloy steel.

  • Before installing the boiler on the place, which is determined for this unit, conduct the first firing outside, equipping the boiler with a temporary chimney. This way you will make sure that the construction is reliable and you will see if you have assembled the casing correctly.
  • If you will use a gas cylinder as the main chamber, take into account that such a unit will provide you with combustion for 10-12 hours because of the small amount of fuel laid down. So the small volume of the propane cylinder will be reduced after cutting off the lid and ash pan. To increase the volume and ensure a longer burning time, two cylinders should be used. Then the volume of the furnace chamber will definitely be enough to heat a large room, and it will not be necessary to put wood every 4-5 hours.
  • To ensure that the ash pan door closes tightly, without giving access to air, it must be well sealed. To do this, lay asbestos cord around the perimeter of the door. If you will perform in the boiler an additional door that allows you to "top up" the fuel without removing the lid, it must also be tightly sealed with asbestos cord.
  • The following scheme, which we attach, can be used with any solid fuel to operate the TT boiler:

    • Stone and brown coal;
    • anthracite;
    • firewood;
    • wood pellets;
    • briquettes;
    • sawdust;
    • oil shale with peat.

    Any fuel will work; there are no requirements on the quality of the fuel. However, keep in mind that a boiler will not provide a high efficiency factor if the fuel has a high moisture content.

    Safety measures

    When considering the major aspects of fire safety, a boiler of this type is actually a cost-effective and efficient heating option that has lasted a long time and hasn’t resulted in any burns or accidents within the home.

    1. It is necessary to monitor the temperature in the system and do not allow it to overheat.
    2. Do not install a shut-off valve on the pipeline.
    3. No flammable objects should be kept near the boiler.
    4. It is necessary to monitor the ventilation in the room.
    5. For the boiler we need to equip a separate room.

    While doing the preliminary work, consider the location of the boiler installation.

    Naturally, it is ideal to outfit a separate boiler room because the TT long-burning boiler operates somewhat differently from a typical wood-burning brick stove. Yes, and this unit’s exterior design won’t appeal to the eye when used as a house decoration.

    It is preferable to install a TT long-burning boiler in a non-residential space because solid fuel still produces some dirt.

    However, if its power is modest (beyond 30–35 kW), you can easily divide (zone) the "boiler room" from the main room using a brick wall.

    Make sure the space where this boiler will be operated has a ventilation system in place. Oxygen must be continuously supplied from the street.

    How to perform with your own hands TT long-burning boiler

    The solid fuel boiler project is not a simple undertaking, and it will not be simple for a novice to complete. Prepare drawings and sketches prior to beginning construction.

    An illustration of a DIY solid fuel boiler

    Additionally, get the following tools ready:

    1. Welding machine.
    2. Tools for working with metal: pliers, grinding wheel.
    3. Electric drill.
    4. Construction level and tape measure.
    5. Marker.
    6. Drill.
    7. Gloves and eye protection.

    Caution! Working on the construction of a DIY TT boiler with continuous combustion requires extreme caution and at least rudimentary experience using a welding machine. Wear safety gear whenever you work with welding.

    From the supplies you’ll need:

    1. Empty gas cylinder.
    2. Sheet metal.
    3. Asbestos cord.
    4. Steel pipe with 60 mm cross-section.
    5. Metal hinges and handles.
    6. Metal angle or blades.
    7. Metal hood.
    8. Basalt fiber for the passage of the flue pipe.

    Step 1. Marking of the enclosure and fabrication of the enclosure

    Mark the propane cylinder using a marker in accordance with the drawing’s dimensions.

    Create a tiny, rectangular opening for the ash pan door so that the boiler can be cleaned through it.

    Draw an even line to cut the top of the cylinder all the way around its circumference.

    Slice off the top with a bolgar on the line.

    Slice off the cylinder’s top.

    Now mark the location of the hole that the pipe will pass through in the center. In other words, the hole needs to be bigger than the pipe’s diameter.

    Make a hole in the lid and weld a metal ring that will fit snugly around the pipe and be inserted into the cylinder.

    Weld the ring in a round configuration.

    Weld a thin, 4- to 5-millimeter sheet metal ring both inside and outside the cylinder so that the lid can be placed on it.

    Step 2. Making a pipe

    Take an 80–100 cm long metal pipe. When welding the boiler’s body independently and not using a standard propane cylinder, keep in mind that the pipe’s height needs to be 20–25 cm higher. The fundamental idea behind the work is that the body’s internal pipe will descend as the fuel burns through.

    Weld an air distributor (metal circle) to the lower portion of the pipe.

    Slice off the cylinder’s top.

    Cut out of asbestos cord that has been previously laid, and fastened firmly with sheet metal fasteners along the cylinder’s cut line.

    Handles should be welded to the lid.

    Make sure the cut top is fixed in a way that makes it simple to take off and put back on. Create metal handles and weld them to the body for effortless removal as well.

    Step 3. Making a spigot for the chimney

    Mark the location of the spigot hole on the upper portion of the cylinder.

    Using a bolt cutter, cut and weld the pipe for the combustion products outlet.

    Next, this spigot is connected to a steel flue pipe.

    Step 4. Making the ash pan

    Using a bolt cutter, cut a hole for the ash chamber in accordance with the marking that was previously made for it.

    We construct a door separately out of sheet metal, which must subsequently be screwed onto the boiler drum brackets.

    The ashtray door opens.

    A handle can be easily attached by making a small loop out of thick wire or reinforcing rod and screwing it on.

    Step 5. Prepare the air supply system

    The cylinder body’s inner diameter should be measured. Now, make a circle on the sheet metal that is 5 mm smaller in diameter than the cylinder’s inner diameter.

    Use a bolt cutter to cut this circle out.

    This is the appearance of the air supply system.

    Cut an angle of metal into six equal pieces. Each component is the same size as ½ of the metal circle’s diameter. For this use, an impeller with worn blades will also function effectively.

    Constructing the system for air supply

    In the same counterclockwise direction, weld the metal circles together.

    Step 6. Making the heat exchanger

    We are going to construct a heat exchanger based on the idea of a water circuit.

    The heat exchanger’s size is customizable to suit your individual needs. Your boiler will burn for a longer period of time if it is larger because you can fit more firewood inside.

    Using the diagram as a guide, cut out sheets of sheet metal that are 5 to 6 mm thick. Weld these sheets into a sturdy body, which will house our gas cylinder.

    Spigots are made in both the upper and lower body to connect the supply and return lines.

    The opening through which the fuel will be deposited needs to be placed in the center. We use a bolt cutter to cut out what we have marked with a marker.

    Step 7. General assembly and installation of the boiler

    Fasten the door of the ash pan to the firebox.

    Mark the location of the ash pan access point on the heat exchanger’s body, then use a bolt cutter to cut it out. Add a door to this opening as well, and make sure it is shut tightly to keep oxygen from entering the body.

    Inside the heat exchanger, insert the cylinder.

    Weld the tank on top with a welding machine to create an airtight housing that houses the circular firebox.

    A restricted air supply from above, which is handled by the oxygen supply system, is the fundamental component of the TT long-burning boiler.

    The fuel (briquettes, coal, or firewood) should be packed tightly to minimize the amount of space between the layers. If it is impossible to pack the firewood tightly due to its varying sizes, you can use paper or wood chips to fill the spaces between the layers. The wood will burn for a longer time if this solid fuel mixture is denser.

    Tight boiler loading is required.

    How will such a boiler be loaded?

    • remove the air supply restrictor from the housing;
    • load the fuel through the special door. It is better to spray the fuel with a special liquid for ignition;
    • put back the pipe limiter;
    • Inside the boiler throw a lit match;
    • After you see that the fuel gradually starts to smolder, close the door tightly.

    The pipe inside the cylinder will gradually lower as the wood burns through. You can always tell how much firewood is inside right now by looking at its height.

    Step 8. Boiler firing

    When the weather is warm enough, you can test such a basic boiler outside by installing a makeshift chimney.

    You can increase the amount of firewood available if the room is larger than 30 to 40 square meters by welding two cylinders vertically together.

    Step 9. Installing the boiler in the room

    Give careful consideration to the boiler’s fire safety.

    In order to prevent burns, it is preferable to set aside a separate room or construct a little fence between the residents. After all, unlike a masonry stove, the boiler body is made of metal, which increases the risk of burns.

    Install in an area where a chimney outlet might be possible. There are two exit points from the chimney: the wall and the roof.

    Remember that everything needs to be 50 centimeters away from the boiler since you need to have direct access to it.

    • Make a brick base for the boiler by laying 2 rows of solid bricks. Check the slope of the base with a construction level.
    • Observe the distance from the walls (regulated by SNiP). The distance from the firebox door to the wall must be at least 125 cm. The distance between the sides and the back of the boiler and the wall should be at least 700 mm.
    • If the walls in the house are made of wood or any other combustible material, it is necessary to protect with sheet metal or basalt the place where the boiler joins the slabs. It is possible to use ordinary bricks as thermal insulation, which should be used to cover the perimeter of the place where the boiler joins the wall.

    Adequate thermal insulation must also be installed where the chimney exits through the wall or roof. Basalt fiber works well for this, and it should be firmly placed between the floor slab and the chimney pipe.

    • Place the boiler on the prepared foundation and check again with a level to ensure that the appliance is level. Take into account that the gas outlet spigot must be at the same level as the chimney pipe. If the line is not horizontal, the draught may be disturbed during operation.

    Step 10. Connection to the chimney

    Take note! Make sure to use a sealant to seal the joints in every section of the chimney.

    Attach the chimney pipe to the CT socket on the boiler. The chimney flue’s diameter needs to match or exceed the boiler’s CT pipe. The capacity of the gas outlet will be decreased if these parameters are not met.

    Attachment to the chimney

    As you can see, building a TT long-burning boiler by hand is not that difficult. Its excellent performance and economy will become apparent to you very soon if you followed the instructions precisely. This will support the upkeep of a cozy home microclimate.

    Materials Needed Step-by-Step Instructions
    Steel barrel, pipes, insulation, burner, thermometer, tools 1. Cut the barrel to desired size. 2. Drill holes for pipes. 3. Install pipes for water inlet and outlet. 4. Attach burner. 5. Add insulation around barrel. 6. Install thermometer. 7. Test boiler for leaks and functionality.

    To upgrade your heating system, building your own top combustion boiler can be a satisfying and economical project for homeowners. You can effectively heat your home while saving money on energy bills and lessening your influence on the environment by utilizing the power of combustion.

    The adaptability of a top combustion boiler is one of its main advantages. These boilers allow you to choose the fuel that best fits your needs, availability, and budget, whether you’re using wood, pellets, or other biomass fuels. This adaptability guarantees that you can adjust to fluctuating fuel costs and supply, assisting you in keeping a dependable heat source all year long.

    Building your own top combustion boiler also gives you the option to modify the setup to suit your unique heating requirements. DIY enthusiasts can customize the design to fit the size and layout of their home, guaranteeing optimal performance and comfort, from sizing the boiler to optimizing its efficiency. Furthermore, homeowners can save time and money on maintenance and repairs by troubleshooting any issues that may arise by being aware of the inner workings of their boiler.

    The sense of achievement one gets from finishing a project like building a top combustion boiler is another benefit. You can acquire useful abilities and information from building your own heating system that you can use for other do-it-yourself projects. Whether you are an experienced do-it-yourselfer or are brand-new to home renovation, installing a top combustion boiler offers you the chance to learn and advance while simultaneously improving the efficiency and comfort of your house.

    To sum up, installing a top combustion boiler has a lot of advantages for homeowners looking to upgrade their heating system. DIY enthusiasts can lessen their environmental impact and have more control over the heating of their homes thanks to cost savings and customization options. Homeowners can achieve year-round warmth and coziness and the satisfaction of a job well done by utilizing the power of combustion.

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    What type of heating you would like to have in your home?
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    Sergey Ivanov

    I like to help people create comfort and comfort in their homes. I share my experience and knowledge in articles so that you can make the right choice of a heating and insulation system for your home.

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