When it comes to improving a home’s energy efficiency, thermal insulation is essential. In addition to keeping your home more comfortable, proper insulation dramatically lowers your energy expenses for heating and cooling. Foil insulation, especially "Penophol," stands out among the different types of insulation materials because of its special qualities and efficiency.
Thermal resistance and heat reflection are two advantages of penophol, a kind of foil insulation. This material is made up of layers of reflective foil layered on top of a layer of foam. This structure is a great option for floors, walls, and roofs because of its exceptional ability to reduce heat transfer. Radiant heat is reflected back by the foil layers, keeping it from entering in the summer and escaping in the winter.
To maximize Penophol’s effectiveness, specific techniques must be used when applying it to various areas of a house. It functions as a barrier against walls to help keep the temperature constant, which lessens the strain on the heating and cooling systems. Penophol, which is used in roofs, stops heat from building up in the attic, a common problem in many homes. In the meantime, it keeps the interior atmosphere warm and comfortable by preventing cold from penetrating through the floor.
Penophol is a popular option for both new construction and retrofit projects because of how easy it is to install. Due to its adaptability and simplicity of use, homeowners can properly insulate their homes without having to undertake major renovations. Its ability to withstand moisture and mold development also contributes to a longer-lasting insulation material and a healthier living environment.
Homeowners can benefit from a more energy-efficient, comfortable home that stays comfortable all year round, regardless of the outside weather, by selecting Penophol as their insulation solution. This insulation technique is a wise investment for any property because it reduces energy costs and improves indoor comfort.
- What is the "penofol" and its analogues
- Real characteristics of thermal insulation
- The scope of application
- Technology of insulation
- Ceiling and roofing
- Thermal insulation of walls
- Floors and ceilings
- Users reviews about "Penophole"
- Video on the topic
- The insulation in the house will leave us without communication and the Internet?
- He insulated the floor with a teena. Review of the owner of the house!
- How I insulate the country wooden floors with a foil substrate in two layers. DIY & DACHA. No. 136
- Thermal insulation (foil insulation)
What is the "penofol" and its analogues
The following supplies are used to create a thin polymer insulation:
- The main isolation layer is a foamed polyethylene 3 … 10 mm thick with closed air pores. Thermal conductivity λ factor of this layer lies in the range of 0.037-0.051 W/(m • ° C) depending on operating conditions.
- The external reflecting layer is an aluminum foil with a thickness of 14 microns, reliably glued with a polymer base.
- The third layer on the back of polyethylene can be glue for the convenience of installation or the same aluminum.
Reference: The manufacturer’s official website is the source of all the characteristics listed. The thermal insulation specifications of different brands might vary. For instance, Tepofol’s comparable material has a thickness of 150 mm.
The material’s impermeability to moisture is its unique quality; the declared indicator is a meager 0.001 mg/m * h * PA. The insulation is supplied in rolls and is relatively light, with a density of 16 to 35 kg/m³. The material functions effectively as an internal vapor barrier because of the specified parameters.
The play "Penophol" is presented in three parts:
- two -layer type A;
- Three -layer – the base is covered with aluminum on both sides (type B);
- The same, with an adhesive layer – type C.
The foil side of the polyethylene foam blocks direct heat transfer, acting as a reflector of the radiant (infrared) component. A perforated version of the “foam” shown in the picture is available for exterior walls. Water vapors are intended to escape from the thickness of building structures through a multitude of tiny holes.
Real characteristics of thermal insulation
We noted earlier in the publication that the operational parameters of the material with dishonest sellers were overestimated. Here are some common misconceptions regarding the characteristics of an insulator:
- Innovation insulation "Penofol" has the best thermal insulation characteristics. Thermal resistance r sheet 4 mm thick reaches 1.2 m² • ° C/W, which is comparable to masonry red brick 0.67 meters or 46 mm polystyrene foam.
- The layer of the "foam" serves excellent sound insulation.
- The insulation can be freely filled with a cement-sand screed, turning upwards up.
Reference: According to the manufacturer, the heat insulator needs to be positioned inside a closed air gap in order to operate as efficiently as possible. The aluminum coating’s intended purpose of reflecting radiant heat will not be achieved when installed in close proximity to other materials. The open area is inaccessible to infrared waves, but the concrete’s thickness is.
Using a standard formula from the construction process, one can easily determine the heat transfer resistance of a single insulation layer:
- R is the size of the thermal resistance of the material, m² • ° C/W;
- Δ – the thickness of the insulation, m;
- λ – specific thermal conductivity, W/(m • ° C).
Take the best option and substitute the manufacturer’s data into the formula to obtain R = 0.004 mm / 0.037 W/(m • ° C) ≈ 0.11 m² • ° C/WT. With foam’s thermal conductivity (λ = 0.043) known, figuring out the layer’s corresponding thickness is simple: 0.0047 m = 4.7 mm is equal to 0.11 x 0.043. The same amount of heat can be maintained, roughly, by 5 mm of polystyrene foam and 4 mm of foamed polyethylene; that is, 46 mm.
Penophol cannot develop into a fully functional soundproof material due to its closed pores. The polymer’s soft surface only partially absorbs sound waves.
Acoustic building materials with an open structure are required for efficient sound insulation:
- mineral wool;
- cork lining;
- sheets of foam rubber;
- Cellulose ecovata.
It is strongly discouraged to install "foam" beneath the cement screed of heated floors for the following reasons:
- Under the weight of the solution, the soft foam polyethylene is crushed, the air (or inert gas) is squeezed out of the chambers, the insulation becomes twice as thinner. Thermal resistance is reduced to a minimum.
- Aluminum foil in the thickness of concrete does not work as a reflector of infrared waves.
- Monolites are thinner than 6 mm shrink and crack along with tiles.
Note: A roll multifolga is a fully functional radiant heat reflector that is placed beneath the screed. Large air cells that support the weight of the concrete make up the structure.
Below the video, it is evident how Portland cement’s aggressive properties cause the typical "foam" beneath the monolith to rapidly lose foil. The manufacturer offers to place "ALP penofol," a unique kind of insulation laminated with a protective polymer film, underneath the screed. It is true that there is still a problem with the monolith’s weight compressing and destroying closed pores.
In conclusion. When it comes to thermal insulation, foil products made of polyethylene are on par with "foam" and sprayed polyurethane. The "penofol’s" thinness and flimsy structure are its weaknesses. The material should be used in specific locations while adhering to the manufacturer’s instructions and the technology.
The scope of application
Any type of home, whether it be an apartment or a private residence, can have its energy efficiency greatly increased with Penophol’s assistance. Where is the content used?
- thermal insulation of the roof of the attic or cold attic;
- The sheathing of ceilings and walls from the inside – as an addition to the "pie" of the main insulation;
- under the final floor covering, laid down on the lags;
- strengthening the external heat -insulating layer;
- internal insulation of balconies and loggias;
- Coating of heating pipes and ventilation ducts.
Furthermore. Many drivers insulate the body of their cars, including the doors, roof, and cabin floors, using "Penophol" type C (adhesive surface) insulation. The metal is covered with carled blanks that are bonded to the bitumen vibro insulation.
Using the material to independently insulate external fences is not recommended as it will not produce the desired effect and will only keep the building from collapsing in the wind. An exception would be Tepofol brand products with large thicknesses ranging from 20 to 150 mm, which are appropriate for complete house insulation.
Technology of insulation
In any case, knowing how to use the material properly will be helpful because you will either hire a group of performers or isolate the house yourself. It’s crucial to adhere to these two requirements:
- Air layer is made between the foil side of the insulation and the next surface. Then Penofol will reflect approximately 95% of infrared heat radiation.
- The porous base of polyethylene should not be compressed by an external static load. Short -term dynamic effects permissible. Example: laying the material under the laminate as heat and sound insulation substrate.
It is imperative to adhere to the necessity of setting up an air clearance when heating a wooden house. It is commonly known that wood’s porous and "breathing" structure deteriorates over time when it comes into contact with any moisture-proof polymer and starts to rot. The layer permits water vapor to enter by acting as a ventilation vent.
Now, using the "penofol," we will examine each building structure’s thermal insulation in isolation.
Ceiling and roofing
The following plan (shown above in the drawing) is suggested for the preliminary insulation of the attic roof’s slopes:
- Waterproofing – a diffusion membrane, a minimum overlap – 100 mm is placed horizontally on top of the rafters. The order of fastening of the paintings – from the bottom up.
- The membrane is pressed against the beams of the bars of the counterparty, the horizontal boards of the main crate are nailed to them. The roofing is mounted on top – metal tile, slate, profiled sheet and so on.
- From the inside, horizontal bars of 50-60 mm thick are attached to the rafters, the installation step is 60 cm.
- A three -layer “foam” type B with two foil surfaces is shot to the bars. Note, a thin insulation bypasses the rafters in such a way that the lumen remains on both sides.
- The internal casing is vertically screwed to the ends of the bars – the lining, moisture -resistant drywall, chipboard panels or other finishing materials.
Take note! Neighboring canvases are not overlapping when the roll "Penophol" is rolled up vertically on the surface. Aluminum tape is used to carefully glue the seams.
This insulation helps to reflect heat flows from both sides, which is especially helpful in the summer months when the metal roof gets extremely hot. Moisture from the outer spirit is removed through the membrane, leaving the inner layer unentile. Penophol accommodates a couple’s paragraph, so a separate ventilation system must be set up in the attic to accommodate a natural hood.
Note that there is no external counterparty that produces a ventilation blow over the superdiffusion membrane, so inaccuracy is permitted above in the drawing. The thermal insulation "pie" of the attic roof is visible in the scheme version that follows. What distinguishes this lining technique from the others?
- There is a powerful layer of the main insulation between the rafters – 120-200 mm mineral wool.
- From below, mineral wool is fucked with a two -layer “foam” type A right along the ends of the beams. Aluminum is turned inside the attic room, the canvases are unfolded horizontally.
- Between polyethylene and mineral wool, a lumen of 2-3 cm was left, from the side of the foil – about 4 cm.
- Brushes for interior finish are pinned to the ends of the beams directly through a layer of polyethylene.
It is evident from this section that the "foam" serves as both a vapor barrier and an extra insulator—the conventional film from the inside is not utilized. The waterproofing membrane and upper blow allow the moisture that has accumulated inside the mineral wagon to be expelled. Couples are eliminated from people’s lives through supply and exhaust ventilation.
Suggestions. Understanding the fundamentals is crucial when working with Penophol: we always leave a layer before foil and place the plastic base close to construction structures. Only the canvases are connected.
A similar principle is used to insulate the ceilings:
- If from the attic side the wooden floor is covered with expanded clay, sawdust or reeds, it is enough to lay 1 layer of “foam” type B, arranging gaps with the help of a crate.
- To the concrete ceiling, you can glue the type of type with directly, with foil down. Then mount the frame for fastening GKL or other finishes.
- Когда необходима капитальная изоляция потолка, воспользуйтесь мансардной схемой, только без мембраны и наружной обрешетки. Install the frame of bars or galvanized profiles, insert the main insulation between them with the dispersal, then add a polyethylene type A from below.
In the unlikely event that Penophol is the sole heat flow insulator (which isn’t always the case), select a maximum material thickness of 8 to 10 mm. A sheet that is 3–4 mm thick works well in conjunction with another heater. Watch the video for more information about the attic roof device:
Thermal insulation of walls
You will quickly grasp how to use "peonophol" to insulate the walls if you thoroughly read the previous section. The substance is typically applied to internal skin in three ways:
- with one air gap on a frame of a beam 2-3 cm thick;
- with two windows on a crate from a beam of 40-50 mm;
- as an internal vapor barrier in a full -fledged "pie".
A crucial aspect. It is preferable to use moisture-proof materials, such as sprayed polyurethane foam or extruded polystyrene foam, to warm the walls from the inside. The insulator’s thickness is likely to contain the dew point, but even the tiniest closed pores will never release steam. Additionally, since foam can pass moisture, it is best to avoid purchasing it.
The "Penofol" in bar, log, and frame homes requires you to be stapled to the crate to leave a gap of two to three centimeters from the aluminum. Similar technology is used to sheathe foam block fences and aerated concrete with open pores.
Although it is permissible to fix the material directly to the plastered wall in brick and concrete buildings, it is preferable to have a subsystem in place. Apartment building loggias and balconies need to be first insulated with "foam" and then covered with fungi that will be attached to the polyethylene insulation by the reflecting layer within the space. The master on the video will be explained by installation technology:
The following advice should be taken into consideration if you wish to install external thermal insulation yourself:
- The walls of stone dwellings, insulated with polymers, are sheathed with one -sided "foam" foil outside.
- If the brick house is sheathed with mineral wool according to the frame, use only a perforated version of the insulation on the outside.
- Thermal insulation of wooden dwellings should be performed by materials permeable for steam – polystyrene, mineral wool, ecowata and so on. Accordingly, for the release of moisture from the insulation, it is necessary to take a perforated "foam".
Remark: You will require a frame in order to supply lumen from the foil side. The "Wet Facade" insulation technology for stone buildings does not allow for the installation of crates and the application of polyethylene foam. There’s also the "ventilated facade" system, which uses the material to block wind.
Floors and ceilings
We would like to notify you right away that opening is a must for the current wooden floor’s thermal insulation. To install reflective thermal insulation correctly, the finish coating must be removed in order to reach the lag. A straightforward plan that replicates the roof’s insulation can be used to insulate the floor:
- A rolled “foam” type is rolled across the lag in a thickness of 8-10 mm. The material is shot to the beams so that 2 layers are formed from above and below.
- The second canvas is laid with the first, fixed with a stapler, and then glued with metallized tape.
- Black floor and finish coating are laid on top of the lag.
An important nuance. It is possible to roll up the roll directly under the laminate or linoleum, theoretically. However, the aluminum coating won’t function, meaning that reflective isolation will be completely lost.
The second option calls for applying a unilateral type A foil layer with a downhole "foam." It should be noted that a sizable cavity the width of the lag still exists beneath the thin insulator. If the room is above a cold basement or an unheated space, make sure to place a layer of mineral wool between the beams that is 10 to 15 cm thick. Remember to leave a 20–30 mm space between the mineral wool and the foam polyethylene.
Maintaining a cozy, energy-efficient home requires effective thermal insulation, and "Penophol" foil insulation is a great option for floors, walls, and roofs. This material acts as a moisture barrier to keep interiors dry and warm in the summer and warm in the winter. It also reflects heat. Penophol is a reasonably priced solution that dramatically lowers energy costs and improves indoor comfort all year round. It is lightweight and simple to install. Penophol can offer short- and long-term cost and comfort advantages, whether remodeling an existing house or building a new one.
Users reviews about "Penophole"
I have to admit that homeowners’ responses and opinions regarding reflecting polyethylene isolation are wildly varied on popular forums. We take a chance and assume that the comments—whether favorable or negative—depend on how the content is used correctly.
Taking out the reviews that are obviously purchased, here are a few examples:
G. Vyacheslav, Ukraine’s Donetsk.
It was recently necessary to open the plasterboard cladding on the wall inside the room in order to perform repairs. Beneath it, foil "foam" covering the plastered slag-block wall was found. I had to take everything apart and thoroughly dry the walls because there was wetness and black mold growing on the insulation.
Veliky Ustyug, RF; Ivan, g.
Famous "Fenophol" 5 mm knocked out Tes with a chilly veranda. Stapled sheets of chipboard to the walls and ceilings with a stapler. Despite the freezing temperatures on the street this winter, the door to the veranda opened calmly and without fear. Occasionally, he used a potbelly stove to submerge the extension in order to dry the walls.
RF, g. Lipetsk, Natalia
Mold was impossible to eradicate, regardless of how well my private home’s northern wall was insulated. tried waterproofing, foam, and cotton. When the builder’s father-in-law visited, he rebuilt everything and lined it with this amazing material. The wall was dry following the autopsy, which was conducted a year later.
When searching for video content to publish, we come across intriguing moments that validate our presumptions. Although mounters are well aware of the safe usage guidelines for "penofol," there are frequent technological violations in reality. The explanation is simple: it is not economically feasible to use a double crate device to provide a thin layer of insulation. It is preferable to install a complete thermal insulation system made of "foam" or basalt wool on the subsystem without a frame.
Type of Insulation | Description |
Wall Insulation | Penophol foil insulation helps prevent heat loss through walls by reflecting heat back into the room. Easy to install between wall studs. |
Roof Insulation | Applying Penophol under the roofing material reduces heat exchange and helps maintain consistent indoor temperatures, especially in attics. |
Floor Insulation | Penophol can be used beneath floor coverings to block cold from entering and to enhance overall energy efficiency of the floor area. |
Penophol is a foil insulation material that works remarkably well for insulating floors, walls, and roofs. This substance improves energy efficiency in addition to assisting with indoor temperature maintenance. Penophol creates a consistent indoor climate all year round by reflecting heat back into the space, keeping it cool in the summer and preventing heat loss in the winter.
Penophol’s simplicity of installation is one of its main benefits. This versatility is a big benefit for both professional and do-it-yourself builders. It cuts down on installation time and labor costs because it is lightweight and manageable. Penophol’s durability and resistance to vapors and moisture also extend its useful life under a range of climatic conditions.
Another important advantage of Penophol is its cost-effectiveness. It is a reasonably priced solution without sacrificing efficacy or quality. Because Penophol is a superior insulator, investing in it can result in significant energy bill savings. Its adaptability also allows it to be utilized in both residential and commercial buildings, which makes it a sensible option for a broad range of users.
To sum up, Penophol is a great option for anyone wishing to improve the insulation in their building. Its unique combination of affordability, simplicity of installation, and efficiency sets it apart from the competition. It’s worthwhile to investigate the advantages Penophol can offer your project if you’re thinking about making renovations or starting from scratch. It’s a wise investment that will eventually pay off in comfort and savings.