The technology of insulation of the facade with mineral wool for plaster, how to insulate the walls of the house with a mineral stone with cotton wool from the outside

Comfort and energy efficiency depend on keeping your house cool in the summer and warm in the winter. Properly insulating your home is one of the best ways to accomplish this. Because of its superior thermal qualities and simplicity of installation, mineral wool is a well-liked option for exterior insulation.

Known by several names, including rock wool or stone wool, mineral wool is a multipurpose insulating material composed of natural minerals such as diabase or basalt. It is appropriate for a variety of applications because it is available in different forms, such as rolls, boards, and batts. Before applying a protective plaster coating, layers of mineral wool are applied to the exterior walls of your home to insulate the facade.

The outstanding thermal performance of mineral wool makes it a valuable option for external insulation. Mineral wool contributes to a year-round comfortable indoor temperature by acting as a barrier against heat transfer. This improves your home’s interior living space and lowers the need for heating and cooling, which could result in energy savings.

There are usually a few steps involved in insulating your home’s exterior walls with mineral wool. The walls’ external surface is first prepped by cleaning and fixing any damage. Subsequently, mineral wool insulation is layered and fastened firmly to the walls. In order to provide a long-lasting finish and seal the insulation, a protective plaster layer is lastly applied.

Types of mineral wool for insulation of the walls of the house outside and comparison with foam – which is better to choose a heater

There are the following varieties of plaster available:

• basalt;
• slag;
• Fiberglass.

The best cotton wool to apply to buildings before plastering the facade is basalt. The material is durable when used outside and has a low heat conductivity. The basalt minvata has a density of 130–150 kg/m³.

The substance is acknowledged as a traditional plaster layer insulation for facades made of wood. Producers create cotton wool in the basalt variety, which has a density indicator ranging from 90 to 129 kg/m³. It is advised to use the lightweight composition on low-rise buildings and facade areas with minimal wind loads.

Melted staple fiber is used to make mineral glass wool. Plastering materials are inexpensive. But it’s important to consider the product’s low strength and propensity for mechanical deformations. Glass wools with a thickness of 5–15 microns can reach a length of 15–50 mm. The substance is resistant to heat and maintains its properties at temperatures between -60 and +450 °C. A maximum density of 130 kg/m³ for glass.

Glass wool resists frost and has little shrinkage. It is also chemically stable. Indicators of thermal conductivity range from 0.038 to 0.046 W/m.TO. This kind of mineral wool doesn’t smolder or light up. The material is strong, frost-resistant, and has sound-absorbing properties. Because glass wool fibers are fragile, it is important to wear protective gear, including a respirator, when working with it. Compared to the basalt variety, the material has less thermal resistance. At temperatures higher than +450 °C, the insulation starts to melt.

Melted domestic slag is used to make slag cotton wool. This particular kind of mineral wool is formed into plates or mats and connected by a synthetic substance. The fibers are chopped into lengths up to 16 mm and thicknesses ranging from 4 to 12 μm. The product has a density of 75–400 kg/m³. One feature of the material is its low cost. Slag is heat-resistant to +300 °C.

The thermal conductivity, which is 0.46-0.48 W/m.TO, is more advanced than that of the basalt slab.

The material has a limited service life of 10 to 15 years. Slag is not advised for use as facade decoration on buildings in climates with low temperatures, high humidity, and frequent sedimentation.

Minvat is distinguished by a fiber structure based on the raw materials and production technology.

The material is classified into the following subspecies based on the type of fiber structure:

• horizontal-layered;
• corrugated;
• Vertical-layered.

Subspecies of mineral insulation are distinguished by marking:

1. P-75-Vata has a density of up to 75 kg/cube. m and is used for insulation of surfaces with a small load.
2. P-125-The density of the mineral wool of this brand is 125 kg/cube. m. The product is used to finish surfaces with small loads, often horizontal planes. Cotton wool is suitable for decoration of brick walls, expanded clay or aerated concrete.
3. PZh-175-Minvata of this marking process walls of profile metal sheets and overlaps from reinforced concrete.
4. PPZ-200-this composition is optimal for metal surfaces, brick. The product is characterized by increased fire resistance.

The following subspecies of mineral wool are distinguished in the form of release:

1. Plates with the base from basalt are characterized by a small level of density. Products are recommended to be used in places of high loads, optimally fix the plates on concrete tissers.
2. Rolls and mats from mineral wool are characterized by the average level of density, therefore they are optimal for insulation of structures with low loads.

Minvat stands out from polystyrene due to its extended expiration date. The volcanic rocks used to make cotton wool are unaffected by variations in humidity or temperature. While foam is combustible, mineral wool has properties that make it fireproof. Based on these indications, mineral wool is advantageous and suggested for facade decoration.

Polystyrene foam is not used when warming wooden buildings because it allows air to not enter the space. The only insulation for wooden walls is mineral wool. Different types of frame buildings are also best suited for mineral composition heating.

Basic properties of mineral wool

Mineral wool is made in rolls and plates and has the following characteristics.

In which the

• Resistance to temperature changes;
• Low thermal conductivity;
• Good heat and sound insulation parameters;
• Resistance to chemicals;
• Stability of combustion and decay.

Technical characteristics of insulation

In addition to keeping heat inside the space, mineral wool insulation on the facades from the outside also maintains a specific microclimate. The qualities of the designated material supply all of this. The most significant characteristics consist of:

• sound insulation;
• thermal conductivity;
• environmental friendliness through the use of natural materials;
• vapor permeability;
• maintaining the temperature regime;
• refractory, which is applicable for premises with increased fire safety requirements;
• lifetime.

Because of its composition, minvata can withstand temperature changes without any problems. The creation of comfortable living conditions is ensured by the insulation of the building’s external facade using the designated type of material.

Features and advantages of mineral wool for the facade

Specialty mineral insulation is used to insulate the exterior of the house against heat loss. High strength is one of the material’s distinguishing qualities. The following are mineral wool’s principal benefits:

• low thermal conductivity. The fibrous base of the material allows you to create air micropolines, which positively affects the preservation of a certain temperature regime;
• vapor permeability. The heat insulator freely passes vapors of water, which does not lead to its delay and damage to the material;
• high level of sound insulation. The presence of stone fibers provides a delay in severe noise, which is the best option for a country house or cottage located on the road;
• resistance before a high temperature regime. Warming by means of stone wool creates a certain barrier that prevents the spread of fire in the event of a fire. The resistance level allows you to withstand about 2 hours and the temperature regime in the interval of 900-1000 ° C;
• Universality. You can use mineral wool with any bases of walls, it has no features.

Finally, this material, which is based on natural rocks, is completely safe for the environment. For residential buildings, mineral wool should be used. There are several ways to insulate the facade, ranging from installing it inside the wall to using it for another purpose.

Mineral wool insulation of your home’s exterior walls is a wise move that will increase comfort and energy efficiency. With this technology, your home’s exterior is first coated with a layer of mineral wool insulation and then plastered over. Made from recycled or natural materials, mineral wool acts as a barrier to prevent heat loss, keeping your house cooler in the summer and warmer in the winter. In addition, it can guard against moisture damage and help reduce noise from outside sources. In addition to lowering your energy costs, mineral wool insulation for your walls makes your home more comfortable and sustainable for you and your family.

Choose insulation for the facade for plaster

Plastering insulation onto the facade decorates it, making it possible to prolong the life of building materials and quickly and elegantly close the walls against outside influences. When this technology is chosen, it can be implemented independently; no suspended and frame systems need to be installed, and work processes won’t be interrupted for an extended period of time. The best results are obtained when isolation and decoration are purchased from the same manufacturer; the necessary amount is best determined during the house’s design and construction. The kind of thermal insulation and the plaster brand affect the cost.

Preparatory work

Cleaning the surface requires several preparatory steps before the walls outside the mineral wool for plaster can be heated. They are predicated on several fundamental operations, the quality of which is determined by how well they are implemented. The surface to be worked on needs to be thoroughly cleaned and removed.

• air conditioners, pipes, etc.D.;
• elements intended for draining;
• reinforcement and other elements located on the surface of the wall;
• mold, fungus and other damage;
• old plaster;
• spots, pollution.

Pollution, fungi, and other lesions can have a detrimental effect on future insulation quality and shorten its operational life. Processing should ideally be done with specialized tools. They start the primary steps for installing the insulation system after preparing the surface.

Wall insulation technology outside with mineral wool for siding

The following plan should be followed when using mineral wool to warm the frame house’s walls by hand:

• First of all, it is necessary to clean the surface of the walls, if irregularities are detected on it, they should be subsided.
• In order to increase adhesion to the surface of the wall, apply a primer.
• Next, it is necessary to fill the crate. Bars can be filled, both in horizontal and in vertical position.
• We lay vapor barrier overlap.
• Your following actions on which the performance of the entire thermal insulation system will be based is to cut the insulation. For this work, you need a sharp knife and a wooden board, which will serve as a press. The dimensions of the plates of the mineral wool must coincide with the dimensions of the crate of plus 5 mm for the arrangement of installation allowances.
• The next stage is the laying of the insulation between the bars of the crate. From all ends, it is necessary to ensure a tight fit of mineral wool plates. There should be no cracks in the neighboring sheets.
• Arranging a vertical crate. Here you need to take into account the type of siding, which will be used for lining the house. For conventional vinyl siding, you need to make a crate with Brusiev step – 400mm. If you plan to install a metal siding, then between the components of the vertical crate should be 600-1000 mm.
• If in your plans, make a second layer of thermal insulation, then it must be laid similarly to the first layer only perpendicular.
• Installation of waterproofing.
• Siding panels.

Putting in a metal crate

Two-layer heating scheme

Three techniques for installing insulation

How to prepare a facade for insulation with mineral wool

The facade must be properly prepared before insulation is installed. Every action is carried out in a specific order. You must first apply a wall primer using a substance that deeply penetrates the base’s surface.

All guides are installed after this procedure. In actual use, a metal profile is preferred. Because there is a chance that the mineral wool will compress during installation, the profile’s thickness may be 1-2 cm thinner than the insulation’s thickness. Guides are fastened with screws or dowels. After completing these fundamental tasks, you can begin material installation by selecting a more appropriate facade insulation technology.

Foam plates

Although foam is also frequently used to warm building walls, it is noticeably less effective than mineral wool in the majority of these areas.

Although foam is also frequently used to warm building walls, it is far less effective than mineral wool in the majority of these areas. One of its primary benefits is its reduced cost. He also possesses these attributes:

Technology of mineral wool insulation

• Small weight of the material;
• Not subject to negative exposure to water, when contacting it, it does not get wet and does not deform;
• Foam does not pass steam at all;
• If the material is in contact with a high temperature for a very long time, then the substances dangerous for health can be released;
• Ultraviolet has the ability to destroy polystyrene, so its operational period is short;
• The slabs quickly burn.

The optimal choice of material

When it comes to insulating walls made of gas silicate or aerated concrete, mineral wool is the material of choice.

Which is the ideal option for a wet facade? It is important to remember that factors other than price and durability should be considered when making a decision. The signs of the walls’ bearing capacity, which thermal insulation should also be considered. The minvat is a material that has a high level of steam permeability and should be chosen if you are tasked with warming the walls of gas silicate aerated concrete.

Take note! You can use both mineral wool and foam if the walls have a high heat conduction indicator, such as brick or concrete.

Plastering

If there are noticeable large bumps with a fixed reinforcing mesh after the glue dries, you will need to create black plastering. It will smooth out the surface and entirely conceal the flaws.

If there are minor discrepancies, decorative plaster is put down right away. You must follow the finishing principle in this situation. The texture selected will determine the application technique.

If there was no coloring in the composition, you will need to paint the piece in two or three layers after it has dried. Here, you must use caution when selecting a paint; it must blend in with the plaster’s composition.

Arrangement of the crate

Carrying out the insulation of the facade independently, mounting the crate is frequently associated with attaching mineral wool to the wall. However, this is untrue. Dowels and glue ensure that mats are securely fastened to the wall’s surface. Thus, strengthening the fiberglass reinforcing mesh beneath the facade paint is sufficient, and putty should be applied on top. The grate is on the frame walls and not overstuffed. Insulation is placed in this area in between the frame racks.

When using mineral linen for siding, block houses, wood-like imitations, lining, etc., colelite is required.

We’ll examine the technology involved in attaching the siding crate to the wall, step-by-step. For work, you’ll require:

• wooden beam 40×40 or 50×50 mm. Dry, straight, with a flat surface, without falling knots, dark spots and mold;
• Metal suspensions or bars for attaching the crate to the wall.

What tools and materials will be required

A standard set of facing is required for the installation of the insulation.

• Shock drill with a set of long drills;
• Construction levels of hydraulic and ordinary bubble;
• T Rooted spatula, rule for plaster;
• A couple of brushes of wide to apply primer, a painting roller;
• Scotch tape and stapler, corners for overlapping the ends of insulation at the corners of the facade.
• Saw for cutting mineral wool slabs.

The material needs to be cut and repositioned to fit the desired location on the facade. You’ll need a respirator, gloves, glasses, and a desktop because this is dusty. It’s convenient to use mineral wool plate glue on the same table before laying.

You will need to purchase the following items from the materials for the exterior facade insulation with plaster finish:

• A primer, a better soil-aimer of deep penetration;
• Dry facade glue for laying insulation on the facade;
• Claim dowels are facade, with a screw length and plugs of at least 200 mm;
• Plastic reinforcing grid;
• A primer for plastering and decorative plaster itself, better silicone.

Furthermore, a starting galvanized profile must be chosen in accordance with the mineral fiber plate’s specified thickness.

It is best to buy consumables with a margin of 5–10% if you are doing the insulation of mineral wool for plaster by hand for the first time. Even seasoned masters get married, so it’s better to buy plaster and insulation supplies with wiggle room than to build an isolation using materials pilfered from various suppliers of goods.

Preparation of the surface of the facade

The walls must be leveled and free of dirt and oil stains before you can begin working with plaster and insulation. Technology says that anything made of metal that can rust needs to be removed outside the walls. Should these metal components hold strategic significance, it is imperative to guarantee the oxygen intake beneath the plaster, i.e. This instantly removes the need for plaster made of acrylic.

Thermal conductivity of the warming material should be minimal. Mineral wool, specifically the variety with a density of 140 kg/m², is therefore as appropriate as it gets.

It is not possible to place insulation beneath plaster if the walls still have remnants of an earlier coating, be it paint, plaster, or something else entirely.

It’s worth using the sages to mark the zone boundaries before beginning insulation. Vestors are made of strong nylon cords that are stretched between reinforcement pins (don’t drive these pins too tightly; they must be removed), fixed at the designated location, and positioned vertically, horizontally, and diagonally.

Vestors are positioned to evaluate the wall’s geometry.

Evaluating the wall geometry is made much simpler after the sagges are installed. Vestors must be adjusted so that they separate from mineral wool by at least one centimeter. Once the wall has been marked, you can start installing the guide profiles.

Install the profile

There is some minor debris on our facility below, as you can see in the picture below. This means that the insulation pie does not have a basement, which is typically the starting point.

By installing such an aluminum profile, the structure is fixed and the material is protected from moisture.

Step -by -step instructions: warm the facade for plaster with foam

It’s time to think about detailed instructions that will help you use foam to insulate the building’s facade in a high-quality manner before plastering it. The selection and gathering of all required supplies and equipment is part of the task. Prior to priming and plaster layer alignment, you must first align the base for additional insulation, create a solution, and secure the reinforcing mesh. You should also use premium wipes. The wall can already be finished and decorated with a decorative coating.

This is a breakdown of the steps involved in insulating the facade’s walls before plastering them. We will discuss materials, take into account the subtleties of the process, and offer insightful guidance from experienced builders.

Step 1. Preparing materials, tools

It’s critical to have everything ready in advance. The required supplies are as follows:

• decorative plaster for the aesthetic decoration of the facade;
• primer;
• plaster mixture.

Get everything ready.

A set of tools is also required:

• a container for preparing a solution;
• grater for plaster;
• putty knife;
• reinforcing mesh;
• Master OK;
• Fold paper for rubbing;
• drill with a mixer;
• level.

Prices for building levels

Modern building supplies include unique plaster compositions that were created especially to be used with foamed heaters. The final product, longevity, and thermal insulation properties of the insulation layer are primarily dependent on the quality of the plaster. Acrylic and mineral mixtures are used in plastering.

Be aware that while mineral plaster is more affordable and readily available, expert artists consistently recommend acrylic compositions due to their significantly superior qualities, which more than make up for the higher cost.

Sand and cement are combined to make mineral type plasters. The material performs its duties effectively during the first phase, but its overall useful life is only brief—roughly two to three years. After this point, we can already anticipate the emergence of cracks and a breach in the plaster layer’s integrity.

This plaster is the most resilient of all the varieties of this material because of the cement that is a part of its composition.

Plaster on the home’s facade

Although acrylic plasters are more costly than minerals, their lengthy service life makes their cost entirely worthwhile. There is one distinct drawback: acrylic progressively loses tone saturation when exposed to ultraviolet light. However, the mixture has a lot of benefits:

• The decorativeness of the coating, that is, additional aesthetic processing is no longer needed;
• excellent protective, adhesive characteristics;
• Very opportunity for the implementation of interesting design solutions: textured decoration "Rain", "Bark beetle" or "lamb";
• A good range of shades.

Acrylic is preferred by masters.

Textured plaster made of acrylic

Finished acrylic plaster is typically offered for sale.

Step 2. Align the surface and fasten the foam

It is now time to begin wall alignment. This is a very responsible first step in direct work. The levelness of the walls will determine the overall quality of the insulation layer and installation work. Slabs are used to mount the foam, and the joints between them must be precisely level. If not, there will be no guarantee of thermal insulation. A wide spatula or rule is used to quickly check if the foam panels are evenly spaced from one another.

Building a basement

Foam

The choice to use a plate and screws to firmly fasten the profile’s corners at a 45-degree angle

Put the lighthouse in place. We’re going to rest a foam sheet on it.

On a primed wall, we apply a thin layer of glue.

Put the application plan to the sheet with glue.

After being put on the profile, the sheet is pressed against the lighthouse.

To operate the aircraft, we pull the cord.

We align the row and use the rule to attack the sheets. Verify that the gap remains the same.

Installed on the first row is the second.

It is not advised to install more than two rows at a time; instead, you should wait until the glue grabs.

Verifying the plate level

The arrangement of the sheets is checkerboard.

The foam blocks must be perfectly sealed at the seams. All surplus foam is eliminated. After leveling, the base is thoroughly cleaned.

Put in the plastic dowels after the glue has dried. For this drum, perforator holes

Put the dowels in and clog them.

Fixation of liste leaves

Dowels are used to record the plates.

Crucial! "Excellent" should be the alignment of the black surface. Hide flaws during the plastering process is very hard, if not impossible. Furthermore, the irregular surface of the foam plates will cause the insulation layer’s thermal insulation qualities to be lost.

Recall the guidance! Although polystyrene foam has a low adhesion, it is a reasonably smooth material. As a result, applying glue to the surface is difficult. Increasing adhesion quickly and creating a large number of tiny pores on the surface is the best course of action. All you have to do is use a needle roller to slowly pierce through the insulation. Even the tiniest pores can be perfectly penetrated by glue.

Step 3. Prepare the solution

Using ready-made building mixtures made especially for plastering foam is advised. Master products from ecomix and Ceresit are highly valued. On the construction site, using a single mixture is typically the norm.

Ceresit glue prices

Finding the best combination of two in one is a smart solution: polystyrene plates can be attached to the facade and a protective surface can be created using universal glue-tucker. Additionally, distinct compounds are available on the market: one mixture is ready for plastering, while the other is meant for fastening.

Accurately determining the volume of required building mixtures is crucial. For every square meter of the reinforcing mesh surface, 6 kg will be used for alignment and 4 kg for plastering.

Knead the mixture strictly according to the instructions’ suggestions. The only piece of advice is that seasoned artisans think the solution can be made slightly more liquid, which will increase its ability to penetrate and ensure that the insulation is thoroughly saturated.

Step 4. We mount a plaster mesh

Selecting the appropriate grid is the first step. Given that we are discussing facade insulation, or work that is done externally, it is best to select the most dense grid possible. The plaster layer adheres to the net more effectively the denser it is. The disadvantage is that decorating the corners will be a little more challenging. Just give them a little more time, and the masters will handle this with ease. Seek for an alkali-resistant grid. Mesh density for foam insulation is between 130 and 160 g/m2.

Foam-reinforced mesh for insulation

Recall! Foam cannot have a plaster layer applied to it! The plaster will soon start to crumble and crack. The durability of the foam and plaster insulation-protective layer is only provided by strengthening the net.

The building’s corners, door, and window slopes must all be strengthened first. This algorithm is used to do this.

1. For reinforcing corners, take a mesh with a width of 0.3 m, 1 m long.
2. The mesh is neatly bend in the middle.
3. The solution is applied to the facade using a wide spatula. The length is equal to the grid strip, but the width should be more than 10 cm. The stripes will be overlapped, so a reserve is left for 5 cm on both sides.
4. The net is neatly applied to the corners, carefully smoothed with a spatula. You need to lead a spatula from the center to the edges, from top to bottom. The grid must be completely drowned in the solution.

Every professional builder follows its own algorithm to secure the reinforcing material on the facade’s walls.

1. First of all, the grid is cut. Remember that you can not make pieces longer than a meter.
2. Fix the grid with small fragments to achieve maximum adhesion. This is important because building mixtures quickly dry out. The normal size of one fragment is 100 by 90 cm. Another 10 cm masters are usually left to glue joints.
3. The mixture is applied with a spatula, only on one site.
4. The net is applied to the facade, well smoothed out.
5. Follow the amount of solution! If it was not enough, the mixture is not entirely immersed in it, you need to add the mixture with a spatula, redraw it again.
6. You need to work with a gradual shift to the side, and fix the grid overlap areas.

Placing a grid that is reinforced

Make sure the canvases are overlapped.

Image: a grinding grid

Reducing the superfluous grid

Step 5. We grind the net

One must wipe the layer of reinforcement. Use emery canvas or specialized plastic graters for this. Circular motions are used when rubbing. It needs to be replaced if a low construction mixture struck the emery.

Incredibly significant! Grouting should only be done once the building mixtures are totally dry. The drying process for the mixture and plaster will take two to three hours when the street is overcast.

Video – how to properly glue a reinforcing grid on the walls

Step 6. We primer and align

The next step involves applying the leveling layer. Additionally, priming the surface is required.

1. The mixture is superimposed with a small spatula on a large.
2. Then the wall is treated with a solution. Movements should be confident, smooth, clear. When you make the most high -quality grout, you will need much less time and plaster material for alignment. There are even two millimeters of plaster.
3. Follow the lines of the joints of the leveling layers. They should not follow the junction of the grid. Thus, you will be able to make inconspicuous seams.

Grout after plaster has already been applied to the surface.

Suggestions. Mixtures used in construction shouldn’t dry out. In order to prevent the leveling layer from drying out, the plaster layer is wiped within a maximum of three days. Work proceeds quicker, simpler, and more effectively as a result.

It’s also necessary to prime. His responsible, professional masters never miss him. The primer has the ability to strengthen the finish surface’s adhesion and provide fungal protection. Experts advise applying a specific primer because it can stop fungus, mold, and surface growth. Using a roller, apply a layer of primer. It is appropriate to use a foam roller, or a model with a short pile.

Deep penetration prices

An introduction to deep penetration

We perform a decorative finish

Recall! You must wait for the soil to completely dry before creating any decorative elements.

It is necessary to select specific plaster mixtures intended for facades. Their resistance to variations in temperature and atmosphere has grown. Both the additional components and the type of connecting component are determined by the properties of the plaster. There are plasters made of silicate, acrylic, and mineral materials.

The algorithm for applying a decorative layer of plaster

1. Prepare a construction mineral mixture. If you use the finished composition based on acrylic, it must be mixed well. Prepare a solution for plaster
2. Apply a plaster layer. Remember that the layer should not be too thick. Maximum thickness – 4 mm. Apply plaster
3. The next layer of plaster must be applied after the previous.
4. The next stage is a grout. Когда поверхность высохла наполовину, можно приступать к затиранию. That is, it is important to feel the degree of drying: the plaster is already well fixed, but at the same time it is easily adjusted. Rub the layer using a special grater. Grout of plaster The process of grout

Recall a few more crucial details! The significance of atmospheric indicators is enormous. It should be between five and twenty-five degrees, with no wind and a maximum air humidity of seventy percent.

The final wall decoration

In addition to adding decoration, decorative plaster shields the building’s walls from the growth of mold and fungus. It can be utilized in three different ways:

1. Stamping. Plaster applies a regular roller covered with a net with a pattern;
2. Thins. To apply plaster, a sponge moistened in water is used. The surface after the ending imitates a natural stone;
3. Bouffant. A metal brush with villi is used. It combines the wall after applying the plaster.

The insulated surface needs to be shielded from precipitation for a minimum of one day following the procedure.

Fastening technology

The application of mineral wool slabs with your hands on a brick wall, crate, and lining or brick needs to be done accurately, according to a specific order, and compatible with all technologies. You can buy mineral wool once you’ve calculated the appropriate quantity and chosen the best kind.

The following methods can be used to apply mineral wool to the building’s exterior walls:

• well system;
• wet method;
• ventilated facade.

A requirement of the "Well" system is that Minvat be placed inside the wall, in between the bricks and on the spaces between them. It is preferable to use a ventilated facade to secure the insulation to a wooden surface. In this instance, the frame is installed all the way around the structure. Even a novice master will not have trouble installing the insulation, and fasteners such as glue or dowels can be used.

The phased wall insulation plan that uses wet mineral wool:

• The surface is cleaned of dust and dirt, after which it is worth removing the recesses and unevenness;
• The basement of the cornice is attached;
• Using a special composition, a layer of mineral wool is glued;
• For reliability, the insulation is fixed with dowels;
• a reinforcing layer is superimposed;
• the surface is well primed and plastered;
• staining in any color you like.

If the wet method isn’t suitable for the master for any reason, you can use a ventilated facade to lay the mineral wool in phases.

1. The wall is impregnated with an antiseptic agent. In the presence of rot, it is worth using special compositions.
2. Remove slopes and platbands.
3. The surface is dried throughout the day.
4. Lay a membrane layer. In the case of a perfectly flat surface, it may not be needed.
5. With self -tapping screws, wooden rails are fixed, the thickness of which should correspond to the dimensions of the mineral wool. The distance between the rails should be less than 20 mm than the width of the insulation.
6. Vata is laid in the crate.
7. Fix the material for protection against water and wind. Fasteners can be carried out using a stapler.
8. To make a ventilated gap, counter -enlarges are mounted on top of the crate. This type of cladding should be fixed at a distance of 60 mm from the insulation layer.

Once the aforementioned tasks are completed, new platbands and slopes can be installed.

Typical mistakes made when laying material

1. Lack of preparing a place before work. Some employees do not pre -protect the window, doors, furniture from dust and dirt, after which they are polluted and deformed.
2. Ignoring surface preparation before insulation. The presence of defects, the uneven plaster, mold, heights should be eliminated before the start of insulation.
3. Lack of starting planks that take on the load from the mass of the material.
4. Incorrect plate installation procedure. The best way for laying mineral wool is chess. In this case, the fixation should be dense.
5. Errors in the application of adhesive composition. Such a nuisance can lead to bending the insulation or the designation of its contour on the finished facade.
6. Lack of fastening.
7. Lack of a layer for protection against weather conditions. This moment can lead to slow drying of the walls, and thermal insulation itself will be ineffective.
8. Lack of filling seams at the insulation border. As a result, cold bridges are formed in the wall.
9. Ignoring the use of a primer before applying decorative plaster. The result of such a mistake can be improper gluing plaster, surface roughness, as well as the presence of gray lumen.

You can use insulation to soundproof the building, save money on heating in the winter, and give housing an ideal temperature regime in the summer. You can also use insulation to stop mold and fungus from growing. In order to achieve this, a lot of masters use mineral wool, which is distinguished by its low cost and excellent operational qualities.

Almost anyone can insulate a building with minvata, a popular and safe material.

You can learn how to use mineral wool to properly insulate the house’s facade.

Mineral wool insulation of your home’s exterior walls is a wise decision for increasing comfort and energy efficiency. Improved moisture resistance, noise reduction, and thermal insulation are just a few advantages of this technology. You can lower your energy costs and create a more comfortable living space by placing a layer of mineral wool underneath the plaster.

Excellent thermal properties are one of the main benefits of using mineral wool for exterior insulation. In the winter, mineral wool acts as a barrier, keeping heat from escaping and keeping your house cooler in the summer. Over time, this can result in significant savings on heating and cooling expenses, making it an affordable option for homeowners.

Furthermore, mineral wool resists fire, which gives your house an additional degree of security. Mineral wool is a dependable option for safeguarding your home and family in the event of a fire because, in contrast to other insulating materials like foam, it does not release harmful gases when exposed to fire.

To optimize the insulating power of mineral wool in your home, make sure it is installed correctly. Employing a qualified contractor with experience in exterior insulation projects will help guarantee proper application of the insulation and the resolution of any possible problems, like air leaks or gaps. Appropriate installation enhances the insulation’s functionality and prolongs its life, offering your house long-term advantages.

To sum up, there are a lot of benefits to using mineral wool as insulation for your home’s exterior walls, such as increased safety, comfort, and energy efficiency. By making an investment in this technology, you can lower your energy expenses and environmental effect while simultaneously designing a more comfortable and sustainable living space. To find out more about the advantages of mineral wool insulation for your house, think about speaking with a licensed contractor.

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