The process of fixing polystyrene foam to the wall from the preparatory stage

Adequate insulation is essential for maintaining a warm and energy-efficient home. The lightweight, long-lasting material polystyrene foam is often fixed as a wall insulator. But there are a few steps you should take into consideration before starting the process.

You must first evaluate the state of your walls. Are there any problems, like moisture or cracks, already present? It is essential to take care of these issues in advance in order to guarantee that the insulation works. Prior to moving forward, make sure to fix any damage and give the walls time to dry fully.

Next, assemble all the equipment and supplies required for the task. To cut the foam boards to size, you’ll need a handsaw or utility knife, safety gear like gloves and goggles, adhesive made of polystyrene, a trowel or spatula for applying the adhesive, and foam boards.

It’s crucial to completely clean the wall surface before using the adhesive. Use a stiff brush or a vacuum cleaner to remove any debris as any dust, dirt, or grease can hinder proper adhesion. To help the adhesive stick better to the wall, you might also think about priming the surface.

After the wall has dried and cleaned, you can start adhering. Pay close attention to the manufacturer’s instructions because different adhesive types may require different drying times and application techniques. Usually, the adhesive is applied to the wall surface evenly using a trowel or spatula.

Stage	Description
1. Preparation	Clean the wall surface from dust, dirt, and debris. Ensure the wall is dry and free from moisture.
2. Marking	Mark the positions where the polystyrene foam boards will be placed on the wall, ensuring even spacing and alignment.
3. Adhesive application	Apply adhesive evenly on the back of each foam board using a notched trowel, covering the entire surface.
4. Placing foam boards	Press each foam board firmly onto the wall, following the marked positions. Ensure proper adhesion and alignment.
5. Securing	Secure the foam boards in place using mechanical fixings such as screws or nails at regular intervals, especially at corners and edges.

Adhesive requirements and necessary tools when creating exterior insulation

The adhesive used in exterior insulation projects must meet the following specifications:

• frost resistance;
• high adhesion;
• resistance to temperature fluctuations;
• water resistance;
• environmental friendliness;
• ease of use;
• Possibility of carrying out facade works at low temperatures, high humidity;
• possibility of quick installation;
• efficiency.

The following equipment and supplies are used in exterior insulation projects: trowel, rubber mallet, screwdriver, drill, and perforator.

Equipment and supplies needed for exterior insulation projects:

• adhesive (dry or glue foam);
• self-tapping screws;
• dowels;
• drill;
• level;
• trowel;
• rule;
• foam boards;
• perforator;
• rubber mallet;
• screwdriver;
• sandpaper.

Internal insulation preparation of walls, treatment with deep penetration solution, application of mastic

This kind of insulation is added to a room at any time of year to improve its energy-saving capabilities. You’ll require:

• foam boards;
• primer;
• mastic;
• reinforcing tape;
• mesh for reinforcement;
• cement-based adhesive composition;
• umbrella clamps;
• roller;
• primer container;
• perforator;
• drill;
• drill;
• drill bit to match the diameter of the umbrella clips;
• nozzle for mixing the adhesive;
• trowel;
• sandpaper;
• holder.

When carrying out thermal insulation work in the room, the walls, if necessary, are prepared in the same way, cleaned from the old coating, dirt and dust, peeling old paint, plaster, a layer of lime. If circumstances require, the wall is leveled, rough defects are eliminated. Next, skirting boards are removed from the wall to be insulated. Due to the fact that the insulation should be laid on concrete, the floor covering is removed to the width of the insulation. After that, treatment with a deep penetrating fungicidal solution to kill mold and many microorganisms is carried out. You can use an antifungal acrylic primer. Primer is dried. After drying, a layer of mastic is applied.

How to attach Styrofoam to the wall with wall plugs step-by-step scheme

Step 1: Gluing the foam plastic

The first step is to install foam sheets on the building’s walls in a technologically sound manner. Pasting the area to be insulated with a specific adhesive composition is required in order to accomplish this. The glue must then be allowed to dry for a full day before the dowels can be installed.

Step 2: Hiding the dowel head in the body of the insulation

Dowel flats are typically left on the foam’s surface after the fasteners are installed, and they cause a lot of interference with the finish that comes next.

The cap should just be recessed into the insulation to prevent this. If we use minwool, we can simply hammer the dowel into place. However, if we use foam plastic, the process is a little different, as we need to create a recess, or "countersunk." It is easily assembled by cutting the dowel plug about halfway through, then inserting a bolt with the necessary diameter from the side of the cap for rigidity. Once the dowel foot is securely clamped into the drill chuck, use the flat pick to identify the recesses where the fastener will be inserted.

Step 3: Drill holes for the dowel with a perforator

Now is the time to drill the holes where the fasteners will be placed. In order to accomplish this, we select a drill with the necessary diameter, place it in the perforator’s chuck, and drill a hole in the flats’ pre-made recesses to the necessary depth. The plug should be able to freely enter the hole at a sufficient depth.

Advantages of foamlex

Diagram showing how to install dowels in full-body bricks or concrete.

Penoplex is one of the best insulators available today. It is robust, long-lasting, and light. Foam plexus is very simple to install and works well with this material. The material’s unique qualities make it popular and in demand both domestically and internationally.

It is significant to highlight that this material is safe and friendly to the environment. Styrofoam has a low heat conductivity and does not absorb moisture.

This explains why selecting this material to insulate the walls was the right decision. The most important thing is to use the fastening technology correctly.

This material is frequently utilized in the building of private facilities. To increase the amount of living space in the apartment, they can insulate the room on the loggia or balcony. In this instance, a frame must be built, into which the thermal insulation material will be inserted directly. Once you have thin plywood, you can already sew the finished structure.

Additionally, roads are constructed using Styrofoam. It turns out that by reducing the effect of ground swelling on the road, using this material extends its useful life. This material has a very high load capacity.

It has a strong degree of resistance to frost and does not distort while being used.

Returning to the contents table

Types of installation and their advantages

There are multiple methods for fastening the foam. Using dowels, applying glue—either wet or dry—or applying glue and dowels simultaneously.

The most common application of glue for fastening is in the interior insulation of a house. There is a significant benefit to this approach. It operates quickly and conveniently. All you have to do is mix the glue or purchase already made glue. Adhesion to the surface of walls or other structures is provided by glue. It will be more than sufficient for the room’s interior finishing.

I suggest using both glue and dowels if we are talking about external works. This will be supported by the need for additional cladding, as the foam plastic needs to be able to support the weight of these materials.

To press the sheet against the wall, additional fixation is typically provided by dowels or umbrellas. The length of the dowel will determine the thickness of the chosen foam and the material to which it will be fixed.

If you have a brick, the dowel should go in at a distance of 9 cm; if you have concrete, 5 cm is sufficient; however, if the block has a cell structure, 12 cm is required. As a result, dowels are essential for exterior finishing because they firmly anchor foam to any surface.

Peculiarities of fixing thermal insulation to the wall with dowels

Penoplex, foam plastic, and polystyrene foam can all be fixed using the same technology. The thermal insulation material is first prepared, and then adhesive composition is used to attach the sheets to the walls. After the mortar has dried, install the foam splex dowels. However, make sure to treat every joint beforehand to prevent the formation of cold bridges. The insulation material is then completed with a finishing coat, which may consist of plaster or different panels.

Prior to installing the insulation, the wall’s old plaster is removed, and mortar is used to fix any flaws that may have arisen from the differences in the wall. Subsequently, the surface is cleaned to promote high-quality adhesion between the adhesive composition and the wall.

Toluene, acetone, or any other organic solvents should not be included in the adhesive mixture used to fix the insulation material. Install a metal profile before laying the first row to stop the thermal insulation sheets from moving down due to gravity. Mushrooms are used to aid in fixing after the mortar has dried. To achieve this, a drill bit with a diameter equal to the circumference of the dowel rod is used to create special holes. Because the length of the recess is one centimeter longer than the dowel’s length, the fasteners will be fixed with reliability.

Mounting on dowels

The following instruments are needed to mount foam to the wall using wall plugs:

• perforator or drill;
• victorious drills;
• dowel;
• glue;
• small trowel.

First, use a perforator or a drill to drill a hole in the foam if one isn’t present. After positioning the umbrella inside the hole, drive the dowel nail into place. To hammer the nail in, use one. All of the umbrellas should be plastered after these adjustments are made to the board’s entire surface, after a little glue has been mixed beforehand.

When using dowels for mounting, make sure the dowel goes through all insulation layers and into the wall to the necessary depth. Because of this, I would suggest that you determine the dowel’s necessary length right away. Once the dowel is hammered in, it needs to be sealed with a unique cap. This flat shouldn’t be more than one centimeter into the foam. The foam may burst if the flat nail is pressed in farther.

I suggest purchasing a router for your drill that has a depth of 1 cm so that you can be certain of the necessary depth for the plugs. Using a cutter like this will enable you to drill holes specifically for the flat bar’s diameter. To keep them dry in the event of rain or moisture, these holes need to be sealed with plugs once the dowels are in place.

The dowels used to fix foam plastic or umbrellas are also known as fungi. I suggest you not to cut corners when selecting them. Because low-quality dowels may fail you during installation. For every sheet of foam plastic, you will require approximately four fungi or umbrellas. You can calculate the required volume using this, keeping in mind the reserve.

I’d like to leave you with a few more pointers at the conclusion of this post. If you’ve never insulated a wall before, begin with the wall that is least noticeable. If there are any minor flaws, you can fix them without worrying about them looking bad.

Make an effort not to stop working on one wall. Or attempt to complete the task using damp materials. The Styrofoam may yellow, so cover it with a reinforcing layer as soon as possible. I’m wishing you luck on such a noble endeavor as wall insulation.

How to attach polystyrene foam to the wall

The only thing left to do is move on to the majority of the walls that are ready. There is a methodical process that must be followed in order to complete the work. Thus, the guidelines for laying

• The first task should be puttying the walls with a solution, on which the insulation itself will be laid down. The layer of overlaying should be dense and continuous. You can also take a special glue for laying, on which you can put a reinforcement mesh. Sheets of polystyrene foam are installed independently as tightly as possible to each other. Emerged gaps are processed and filled with foam scraps.
• The installation itself is performed with overlapping. This position is good for durability and prevents the formation of possible gaps. For maximum efficiency use the technique of alternating horizontal and vertical masonry, then the joints will be the same both in length and height of the wall.
• Now dilute the glue, as indicated on the manufacturer"s package. The resulting mortar is applied in an even layer with a trowel with teeth in a width of 8 cm. First in the center, and then in the corners zigzag lines are made. The glue on the tiles should occupy up to 40% of the area. Fixing the thermal insulation material
• In the strip that runs over the entire area of the tile, it is necessary to leave small gaps, through which oxygen will subsequently pass in the future. After the glue is applied, you need to wait for it to dry for 10-15 minutes. During this period, the tiles should already be mounted.
• When all the boards are installed, and the fastening of polystyrene foam to the wall is also completed, they are fixed with special fasteners with mushroom flats. They are fixed first in the center and in all corners. The total comes out to 5 pieces per one sheet of insulation. To insert this fastener into the sheet, you need to drill a hole in it with a drill at a distance of 4-5 cm. Insert our dowel into the prepared hole.
• To add reinforcement mesh on the layer of polystyrene foam should be when all the fasteners are installed and the adhesive layer is dry. On top of the reinforcement mesh lay another layer of glue with a special roller to completely sink it inward. This is a fixing layer for the insulation.
• When the glue dries, you can treat the surface with decorative plasters, primers or level the layer. Then it should be painted.
• Laying and completed.

Preliminary work

As with any finishing material, the future location of the cladding must be examined in the initial stages (after gathering all required makeshift tools). Therefore, take down any extraneous structures that might impede the upcoming work by painting them over the walls. Examine the walls, making sure the surface is as level as possible. If there are areas where the plaster is flaking, remove it and cover the area with cement-sand mortar, making sure to level the surface.

Let"s assume that the walls of your house are leveled. Next, you should measure the wall, after which you should determine the size of future foam sheets. They should not be small, but at the same time take into account that you still have to work with them, so choose the most convenient formats of foam sheets. It is best to glue the foam in a staggered order! Before gluing the foam, after leveling the walls, if possible, wash off all the dust with water from a hose (or manually with a rag).Wait for the wall to dry and then apply a primer coat. Under it you can also add a special solution that prevents the formation of mold and fungus. It can be both sprayed with a spray gun and applied using an ordinary brush.

Now that everything is prepared, you can begin attaching the foam to the house’s walls. Decide on a method first.

Calculation of the required amount of materials

Determining the required quantity of material is the first step in any construction or repair project. Knowing the area of the surface that needs to be covered is sufficient. Foam plastic in different thicknesses is used to insulate residential buildings, but a material with a thickness of at least 5 cm and a density between PSBS-15 and PSBS-35 is ideal.

You can use dowels, foam glue, or regular cement-based glue to secure the boards. Take into account the following factors when selecting an adhesive:

• the package should have a note that the adhesive is suitable for fixing polystyrene foam boards;
• The purpose of the adhesive can be to install insulation and fill gaps or to provide a protective layer.

The adhesive should be calculated with the surface’s flatness in mind. The typical quantity needed for manual insulation installation is roughly 5 g/m2. The amount needed to fix the leveling layer and the reinforcing mesh will be about the same.

To prepare the mortar, follow these general guidelines:

• The density of the adhesive should be such that when applying the solution does not change its shape. That"s why you should sometimes deviate a little from the manufacturer"s recommendations;
• for fixing the reinforcement mesh, the glue should be a little greasier. This is required for better recessing;
• even more liquid should be used mortar during its use at the final stage, for the installation of the leveling layer.

How to attach foam to the wall complex cases

Foam covering concrete walls – probably the simplest job. What to do, then, if you have to glue the boards to a metal surface? Interestingly, you can get by with some cheap, household tools, like PVA glue; if strength is not an absolute necessity, this approach will work as well as it can; burlap is also required; it is properly impregnated with PVA compound and adhered to the base surface; the boards are then glued onto the sacking, liberally smeared with the same glue.

Nevertheless, it is preferable to purchase a specific polyurethane glue if the glue will be used outside the structure or in other locations where adhesion strength is crucial.

The length of time it takes to dry is its lone drawback. Therefore, if they are not supported by plywood or an appropriately sized board, the boards may give way under their own weight. Use liquid nails instead of waiting and propping; this common adhesive won’t react with the foam board. Nonetheless, the level of adherence will remain inferior to that of polyurethane adhesive.

However, there is still the option to use compositions in tandem. Liquid nails offer rapidity of work (no waiting or creating supports required), and the polyurethane component will give the structure the required strength. with the exception that the expenses will be much greater. Mounting foam is an additional choice. Try rubbing off the foam that has adhered to your hands, and you’ll probably be persuaded that this well-known sealant has exceptional adhesive qualities.

Furthermore, buying a specialized gun to squeeze out the foam is not necessary when using disposable cans; however, it is when using polyurethane glue. Since mounting foam is frequently left unused after windows and doors are installed, using this sealant to repair polystyrene foam is simple. Just be advised that it needs to be applied sparingly in five different locations. If there is too much foam, it will expand during the curing process and distort the boards.

Preparing the wall for insulation

The brick wall insulation can only be fixed after it has been prepared. PPS won’t stay on an untreated surface very long. It needs to have the following taken out:

• dust;
• dirt;
• traces of oil, grease;
• peeling fragments;
• fungus.

Plastering deep depressions and cracks in the wall, along with removing protrusions and cutting off protruding parts, are all necessary. Although discrepancies in height of up to 1 cm are acceptable, perfect surface leveling is not necessary. However, a level wall will use significantly less adhesive material. Making tiny indentations with a sandpaper bar in the foam plastic boards will be sufficient to ensure that the insulation adheres tightly to it in areas with negligible protrusions. It will be necessary to apply a thicker layer of glue on the depressions.

Table listing the attributes of various grades of foam plastic.

In order to guarantee the insulation’s consistent adherence to the brick, the surface is primed with a deep-penetration vapor barrier composition and treated with an antifungal agent following the repair.

Since the methods for impregnating the walls must be applied one at a time only to completely dry surfaces, insulation work is best done during the warm months.

Work in high humidity conditions will negatively affect the quality of the repair, so you should schedule your repairs during clear weather windows.

Advantages of use

Because almost all of the material’s structure is made of air and is porous, it has a high heat retention capacity. Furthermore The following benefits of polystyrene foam should be highlighted:

• high level of compressive strength;
• moisture resistance, which does not allow decomposition and deformation;
• low level of vapor permeability, which allows you to attach the material to the interior walls of buildings;
• resistance to external sources of influence, such as precipitation, temperature changes, atmospheric phenomena and ultraviolet rays;
• material application duration. If all the rules of installation of the insulation material are observed, it can be used for 50 years and more;
• the material is unattractive to rodents, insects and birds;
• fire resistance of the insulation;
• material eco-friendliness. As mentioned earlier, polystyrene foam is extruded without the use of harmful freons.

Installation of extruded polystyrene foam video

Naturally, without making certain preparations, the process of installing the material on walls, floors, or foundations is not possible. Prior to attaching the material, you should prepare the building’s walls (either the floor or the ceiling).

Preparatory work

Polystyrene foam sheets must be processed, or cut to a desired size, in order to be ready for installation. Additionally, choosing the adhesive’s composition and components is essential for adhering the material to walls or other surfaces.

The insulation sheet needs to have the glue applied approximately one hour before it is joined to the surface.

The walls’ entire surface should be cleared of all unnecessary material in advance if insulation is our plan.

• old cladding;
• old fasteners;
• irregularities;
• protrusions;
• gaps;
• crevices.

It is necessary to seal gaps and cracks with putty mixture to prevent interference. Should the surface exhibit a prominent curvature, a mixture leveling layer ought to be applied. The insulation sheets need to be slightly trimmed inside if the convex areas cannot be removed before installation.

Additionally, remember to apply deep penetration primer to the walls.

How to install extruded polystyrene foam under siding

Installing this material beneath the siding requires the installation of a vertical batten, which is made of galvanized metal profiles or pine bars that have been treated with antiseptic. Place it 40 centimeters apart from the building’s facade. Utilize dowels and a level to regulate the frame’s plane.

After inserting Styrofoam between the guides, dowels are used to secure it. The insulation layer should then be protected from the wind by a membrane, which will allow moisture to escape the thermal insulation layer and escape to the outside.

Between the cladding and the thermal insulation layer, there should be a ventilation gap. Install additional purlins for this purpose, spacing the guides 30 cm apart. There should be a gap that is about 1.5 cm tall. After that, the siding panels and frame rails need to be fastened.

How to install the material under the facade plaster

The polystyrene foam sheets should be affixed to the walls using a deep penetration primer jointing with cut parts in order to guarantee that the thermal insulation layer does not lose its integrity. If the spaces between them are too wide, wedge-shaped pieces of insulation or liquid polystyrene foam are used to seal them.

In this situation, mounting foam is not a good idea since it can split the insulation layer and compromise its integrity. Using a grater, sand the spaces between the thermal insulation.

Disc dowels with flats shaped like umbrellas are used to attach polystyrene foam sheets to walls by pressing the insulation material against the surface. The risk of weathering and deforming the thermal insulation layer is high if additional fixings like nails or self-tapping screws are used. The dowel heads need to be properly puttied after the installation is finished.

Peculiarities of using disk dowels for fixing

Certain adhesive compositions can be used when installing insulation using dowels. It is particularly advised when there are surface irregularities, pits, and other types of defects.

After soaking in glue, the extruded polystyrene foam sheet needs to be positioned on the wall and pressed up against it. Special combs, which are typically used when laying tiles from tiles, should be used to apply the adhesive mixture.

Regardless of the imperfections in the wall’s base, it is essential to switch up the glue layers to improve the fit of the sheets.

Using an impact drill or perforator, holes must be made for the dowels once the glue has dried. It is not advised to install them before the glue has fully dried, as this could cause the sheets to shift or become excessively depressed during installation, necessitating the purchase of additional putty and plaster. The dowels ought to be centered and edge banded.

Preparatory work before insulating the walls

The fixing technique that uses glue and dowels is thought to be the most dependable and efficient.

There must be a thorough preparation done before beginning the major insulation work on the house. It consists of:

• selection of necessary materials and tools;
• surface preparation;
• installation of purlins (if desired).

Perforator, hammer, tape measure, construction level, electric drill, chisel, and pulverizer are among the tools required for the task.

The following materials and tools must be chosen carefully in order to complete the basic work ahead of time:

• foam boards;
• primer;
• putty;
• glue;
• wood block;
• wood preservative;
• sealant or foam;
• brushes;
• chisels;
• hammer
• brush;
• trowel;
• sprayer;
• electric drill;
• punch;
• self-tapping screws;
• special dowels;
• glue containers;
• trowels;
• rollers;
• construction and hydraulic levels;
• tape measure;
• ruler;
• marker;
• starter profile;
• a long trowel;
• plaster mesh;
• aluminum corner;
• stapler;
• caproon thread;
• construction knife.

Application scheme for glue on foam plastic.

Any surface, including brick, concrete, wood, metal, and plastic, can be covered with foam. The wall surface needs to be thoroughly cleaned and leveled before installing foam plastic. First, a brush is used to remove any dust, dirt, or mold from the wall. The entire surface must be cleared of the previous coating. Cracks and crevices should be sealed, and uneven walls should be straightened. A roller and a specific priming mixture are used to prime the surface. The sprayer’s surface can be treated with specialized mold and fungal compositions.

It’s important to discuss the adhesive option for foam plastic for a moment. For this use, cylinders of polyurethane foam are ideal. This composition of foam adheres to surfaces with speed and consistency. The glue used for foam plastic insulation on the outside of the building is chosen based on how resistant it is to moisture and frost. In any case, organic solvents that could damage the material itself shouldn’t be a part of its composition.

Returning to the contents table

Installation of foam plugs

You can now begin working on your technique. The work itself is not difficult, but it does call for a particular mindset and level of accountability. You need a power tool, specifically a perforator, to complete the task. It will be used to drill dowel holes.

In this situation, it’s critical to select a drill bit that matches the rod’s diameter. Here, its length ought to be one centimeter longer.

Thus, there are three primary stages to the entire process:

1. Drill holes in the right places. They should be flat.
2. The dowel or spacer itself is then inserted into the hole. The head must be flush with the foam plastic.
3. It remains only to insert and hammer or finalize the fixing nail or anchor. If the umbrella has a lid, it is covered with it.

That’s it; the installation is deemed finished. By this principle, all elements are fixed. Watch this instructional video before starting any work to ensure that the procedure is simple and clear. When that happens, you won’t make any mistakes at all.

Varieties of dowels for foam plastic

Three different kinds of dowels are used to secure the insulation to the wall. They can be made with metal or polymer nails, or they can be fastened with a type of fastener that has a thermal head. The primary benefit of using nylon or polypropylene for plastic dowels is that these materials are less expensive than metal ones, but their strength is marginally inferior.

1. Fungi made of plastic to fix the insulation, installed on brick or concrete surfaces. Such elements are not used for heavy type of insulation, and they are not suitable for walls made of foamed concrete. The material has a low affordable cost.
2. Metal dowels differ from the polymer material by their durability. When using them take into account the significant thermal conductivity of metal material, it affects the quality of the work of thermal insulation. Fungi of the metal kind create cold bridges, which form areas with a high thermal conductivity index. Dowels with a nail made of metal can be covered with corrosion, if they are exposed to moisture. Such elements are more expensive than plastic fasteners.
3. A replacement for metal fasteners can be a dowel with a thermal head, the rod is made of steel, and the cap is covered with such a metal, which has a low thermal conductivity. The coating is polyamide of impact-resistant type, its thermal conductivity is almost equal to this indicator of the insulation material. Also, the nail from metal is covered with a cover, so the dowels are not covered with corrosion. But it should be taken into account that the cost of such material is different from plastic, and metal dowels.

Frame fastening of foam plastic

Frame suggests the existence of a frame, as the name itself makes clear. Make sure you have the required supplies ahead of time: the appropriate quantity of foam, metal profiles or 50/50 wooden bars, and vapor barrier film. There are multiple steps involved in installing foam plastic instructions:

1. Before installing the frame itself, conduct a thorough work on the preparation of the surface. At this stage it is necessary to remove a layer of paint or whitewash, and then clean the surface from dirt and dust. In case of unevenness, apply a layer of putty and primer. And do not forget about the treatment with an antiseptic agent.
2. After preparing the surface, it is recommended to carry out work related to electrical wiring. It is now necessary to hide the wires in special corrugations and insulate them, using asbestos or metal. Mounting the foam plastic with fasteners
3. Installation of the frame, the choice of which depends on the size of the allocated budget and the humidity of the room. Often the frame is chosen metal or wooden. It is desirable to place the profile or bars at a distance of 50 cm from each other. Then in the opposite direction it is necessary to install the short parts of the frame. It should be done in such a way as to end up with a large cage, and the size of the cells should correspond to the size of the purchased sheets, otherwise you will need to cut them off. Fasten the purlin to the ceiling with self-tapping screws. When installing the frame, be sure to use a level to obtain a perfectly level surface in the end.
4. After that, you can move on to installing the foam itself. It can be fixed by one of two methods: on screws or glue. However, the gaps should be treated with sealant in both cases. This is necessary to exclude possible heat loss.
5. A vapor barrier film should be placed over the insulation layer. It is especially important in case of using a wooden frame, as it will protect it from condensation. The film should be attached directly to the purlins with a stapler in an overlap of 10-15 cm, and the formed joints should be sealed with scotch tape.
6. The final stage will be the mounting of the plasterboard structure on metal profiles with screws.

Insulation for a wooden house

Even though log homes have excellent thermal insulation, they decay if no additional layers or penetrations are added. Use gypsum board as an insulator for this kind of home, then place polystyrene foam on top of it. Let’s go into more detail about how to attach polystyrene foam to a wooden wall and lay the board. It is also feasible to complete the fastening directly.

Wooden house insulation against heat

Thus, the technology itself:

1. Check the quality of the joints between the joists. If there is moss, irregularities or other growths, then it is necessary to pakonopativate the walls and fill these gaps with assembly foam.
2. Then boards are nailed vertically across the surface of the logs. Each of them is nailed with a uniform distance from each other. For more convenient calculation use the formula H+S-5, where H-step padding, and S-width of the sheet itself with insulation.
3. At the very center of the board nail other boards with an edge. In the end, the frame comes out. Its depth should coincide with the dimensions of the polystyrene foam.
4. After that, carefully insert foam sheets inside, starting from the bottom. If the diameter is correctly aligned, the board will be held very securely. If the boards are a little wobbly, they are nailed with small nails.
5. Then a special membrane is laid. It is possible to use isopan or foil and lay it with the foil side (white) against the polystyrene foam sheet, in other cases you should read the manufacturer"s instructions for laying.
6. The membrane is laid in horizontal layers from bottom to top. The joints of the foam itself get covered by 10-15 cm.
7. This membrane is attached to the polystyrene foam with a mounting stapler, and all joints are glued with adhesive tape.
8. Finally, it is faced with wagon, or special thin-layer putty or siding.

In the world of home heating and insulation, fixing polystyrene foam to walls is a crucial step for maximizing energy efficiency and comfort. The process starts with careful preparation, ensuring the wall surface is clean, dry, and free from any debris or obstacles. Next, appropriate adhesive is selected, taking into account factors like wall material and environmental conditions. Then, the foam panels are cut to size and the adhesive is applied evenly to the back of each panel. Pressing firmly, the panels are affixed to the wall, making sure they align properly and any excess adhesive is cleaned away. Finally, allowing sufficient time for the adhesive to cure ensures a strong and durable bond. By following these steps meticulously, homeowners can enhance their insulation efforts, leading to a more energy-efficient and comfortable living environment.

How extruded polystyrene foam is installed

Despite being more expensive than equivalents, extruded polystyrene foam is a worthwhile choice for heat-insulating materials.

There are various methods for creating sheets of this material, including:

• Glue mortar.
• Cement mortar.
• Special mastic.
• Mounting devices.

It is important to protect the insulation sheets with non-combustible materials such as brick, plaster, ceramic tiles, steel or aluminum profiles when installing thermal insulation on the exterior of the house. According to building regulations, there must always be a ventilation gap between the finish and insulation boards. This will guarantee that the insulation remains dry and retains its insulating qualities.

However, because this method takes up less floor space, other installation techniques have been developed. Use specific waterproofing materials, for instance, to prevent moisture intrusion into polystyrene foam when it comes to external walls. Usually, parchment or roofing felt is used for this purpose.

Use vapor barrier materials, like polyethylene film, to stop moisture from entering the room. There are many different kinds of materials available in the modern construction industry.

Adhesive method of fixing extruded polystyrene foam

Baumit glue or mastic can be used to fasten polystyrene foam. Since bitumen is typically present in the mastic, it is always ready for use. The thermal insulation sheets are treated with the solution either in strips or at the corners and in the middle (there are only five points per sheet). Adhesive mortar is typically used in amounts of 0.5 to 1 kg per m².

The boards will adhere well because the mastic is simple to apply and adheres to the surface. Nevertheless, one drawback of the mortar is how long it takes to dry. Because boards can wobble under their own weight without support, this installation technique combines mechanical fasteners like dowels or self-adhesive pins.

A thin layer of primer is applied first, allowed to dry for thirty minutes, and then the adhesive solution is applied. Dowels are more frequently used in Russia to stop boards from moving. Only adhesive mortars are utilized in Europe.

Mechanical fastening of thermal insulation

Polystyrene foam sheets are mechanically fastened using self-adhesive pins, dowels, and self-tapping screws. These self-tapping screws, which are composed of premium polymers, resemble mushrooms with a broad cap. Using a drill, self-tapping screws are installed into the holes created in the stove during installation.

When choosing the type and size of dowels, it’s crucial to consider the thickness of the foam layer and the material used to construct the wall. The thickness of the insulation sheet must be increased by 50–70 mm in order to determine the size.

Typically, one m³ of insulation requires six dowels. They are arranged exactly like the glue points.

Install a standard-sized polystyrene foam block using four self-adhesive pins and a rectangular "die." The Styrofoam is pressed firmly against the wall surface because of the pin’s notch.

Recommendations when installing polystyrene foam blocks

Plan for installing polystyrene foam.

1. Styrofoam can be cut with any sharp tool. It is better to do this after the exact marking of the place of laying has been made. The best result can be achieved when using a special device with a glowing nichrome wire.
2. Do not treat the insulation and the base, on which it will be laid, with resins and organic mastics, because they negatively affect the insulating material.
3. In case of wide gaps between neighboring boards or between boards and lagging, they can be sealed with fiberglass.
4. When installing boards for ventilation, it is necessary to leave gaps of about 10 mm thickness along the wall.
5. When using Styrofoam in combination with parquet or laminate flooring, it is necessary to additionally construct a reinforcement with purlins.
6. Polystyrene foam can be used together with underfloor heating system. In this case, before installing a vapor barrier over the insulation on the perimeter of the walls glue a damping tape, because the screed over the heating system as a result of temperature changes expands.
7. When laying carpeting, you need a base made of chipboard, fiberboard or plywood, as polystyrene foam can break under heavy weight.

Nothing complicated is involved in installing polystyrene foam, so anyone with the right motivation and equipment can do it. In this situation, it’s important to tackle the task with responsibility, replace the insulation with caution, and avoid creating wide spaces between adjacent sheets.

Basic rules for fixing the foam plastic

The foundation of a house’s insulation is the quality of the foam’s attachment to the wall. The most important aspect of installation is making sure the material is firmly attached to the work surface. Air cannot possibly circulate between the wall and the thermal insulation; otherwise, the insulation’s entire impact would be negated. The heat that has entered the enclosing structure is carried away by the air when it blows over the wall. In this instance, the Styrofoam simply hangs on the wall and does nothing to improve the situation.

Since foam plastic has a very low thermal conductivity (0.034 W/m*K), it is ideal for all heat that passes through the wall and comes into contact with the insulation to cause the wall to stop moving. Here, the wall starts to retain heat and returns it to the space. However, all that is needed for the entire plan to come apart is for the insulation to adhere loosely to the wall.

For this reason, setting up the work surface properly is crucial. Less likely are air ventilation gaps to remain beneath the foam board the flatter the wall.

The side and bottom ends of the insulation pie require extra care.

Vermiculite, an insulation material in bulk, can be utilized to insulate walls from heat, but there are some requirements that must be fulfilled.

However, for these purposes, adhesive-based insulation is not used at all.

A basement profile is used when using mineral wool for insulation purposes in a home. In addition to keeping air out of the way, it supports the minwool sheets. Since foam plastic is a lightweight material, a basement profile is not required. To seal the bottom edge qualitatively, it is sufficient. Use these to secure the foam to the wall:

• universal dry construction mixtures;
• glue foam;
• dowels mushrooms.

Learn about the technology before attempting to fix the foam, as it may require combining multiple fastener options.

How polystyrene foam is extruded

Gas-filled polymers are most commonly found as foam made of extruded polystyrene. The technology, which has been around for more than 50 years and is still in good use today, extrudes it.

The material is extruded using the following method:

• Polystyrene granules are mixed with a foaming agent at high temperature;
• further with the help of extruder the obtained mass is pressed out.

Prior to using a combination of soft and hard freons, the material was extruded using hard freons. Afterwards, freon-free systems were used. This is how extruded polystyrene foam came to be at the close of the 20th century, when insulation materials containing freon were outlawed in the majority of European countries.

How to properly attach the Styrofoam

Prior to repairing the polystyrene foam, the following supplies and equipment need to be ready:

• Styrofoam sheets;
• vapor barrier film;
• plastic dowels;
• construction knife;
• assembly foam;
• construction tape;
• copper sulfate;
• perforator;
• drill bits;
• hammer.

Guidelines for correctly attaching foamplex:

Plan for installing thermal-insulating panels.

1. Before insulation, the walls need preliminary preparation. First, it is necessary to remove old coatings from the surface (wallpaper, for example, if present). Secondly, the surface is treated with an antiseptic (copper sulfate is a good option). It is necessary to remove mold and fungus (in cases when the wall was frozen). And only after these items are completed, you can proceed to the stage of installation of polystyrene foam sheets.
2. On the surface of the wall it is necessary to attach the vapor barrier film with the help of tape. It is important to remember that the film can pass air only in one direction, that is why when attaching it, it is important to pay attention to the necessary side and attach the film correctly. And only after this action can proceed to the installation of foamlex. It is best to start masonry from the corner, moving from the floor.
3. It is easier to fix the material with someone with two hands. One will be able to support the polystyrene foam sheet, and the other will use a perforator to drill five necessary holes (in the center and in each corner). It is important to take into account the length of the dowels when drilling. With the help of this technology, all the boards are fixed.
4. For tightness of joints they should be filled with assembly foam. Insulation is carried out completely along the entire wall, it is not necessary to exclude the heating zone and so on. After using the foam, you need some time for it to dry and harden, it will take about 24 hours. When the foam dries, all excessive residue can be removed with an ordinary knife.
5. Now you can proceed to the stage of wall paneling with plasterboard or chipboard sheets.

The directions for repairing foamlex are straightforward. It suffices to thoroughly familiarize yourself with it and adhere to all of the guidelines.

How to glue

The following problem, which needs to be resolved even before the calculations, is how to attach the boards to the wall using glue; the relevant technology is explained below.

Special mixtures, either two-component (gluing and leveling) or one universal, are used to adhere foam boards to the walls. Working with a universal mixture may appear simpler, but the cost difference is significant—universal costs 20–25% more for the same area to be faced. Taking into account that many dozens or even hundreds of squares will need to be covered, the total comes out to be fairly substantial.

There is no difference between separate and universal mixtures in terms of strength, resistance, and durability.

Insulate the floor

If the floor slab’s lower surface is accessible—for example, if there is a basement beneath the whole house—insulate it from below by figuring out the foam’s thickness using the wall methodology, but setting the floor’s thickness at R. In this instance, attaching the foam with mushrooms will complete the work.

There are three efficient methods to insulate a floor with foam plastic if it needs to be done from the inside. The first one doesn’t involve replacing the screed.

• On the screed we lay EPPS 30-40 mm.
• On the EPPS we make a purlins on crossed mortise-and-tenon wooden lags with a mesh of 300-400 mm made of 40-60 mm timbers.
• In the cells of the purlins we lay EPS-15 or EPS-20.
• On the purlins we make a rough planking from plywood 16-20 mm, and on it – decorative from laminate, marmoleum or cork.

Secondly, in case the screed is smaller than 150 mm:

• On the base floor we make a vapor barrier as usual.
• Instead of expanded clay, we lay 30-40 mm EPPS.
• Then – reinforcement mesh and as usual.
• Planking – on a wooden batten with PPS in the cells, as described.

We create a dry screed of aerated concrete (not foam concrete) on the vapor barrier!) blocks or foam concrete with thickness based on the thermal calculation if the height beneath the screed is greater than 150 mm. Next are flooring, cm. above again, insulation-filled purlins, screed on the beacons, and reinforcing mesh. This approach is advantageous because channels for covert communications can be set up in the dry screed.

Carrying out basic works

Plan for adding dowels to secure foam plastic.

The following are examples of proper thermal insulation installation technology:

• gluing the sheets of material to the wall;
• additionally fixing them with dowels.

The only way to install foam plastic that is both practical and reliable is to combine these fastening techniques.

It is essential to give each work phase more careful thought.

The process of adhering foam sheets is not technologically complex. The glue mixture must first be made or purchased already made. A starter profile is installed in the lower portion of the surface, so that the insulation can be glued to it. Using spatulas, the adhesive is spread over the material, smearing it in several spots in the center and all the way around the sheet. It is imperative to make an indentation from the sheet’s edges, and no glue should be spared.

To maintain even laying rows, the adhesive-impregnated sheet is placed next to the starter profile. A long grater should be used to press the material up against the wall. A tiny space should be left between the foam plastic sheets in case the material expands due to moisture or temperature. After the job is finished, joints between the sheets can be filled with assembly foam or sealant.

Using a construction level, the rows are installed in a staggered order, and it is correct to carry out this work from bottom to top. If the material is fixed without a purlin, dressing of the rows becomes especially important. Once the insulation glue installation is finished, the insulation will naturally shrink and the glue mass will harden over a period of up to three days.

Dowels must be used to reinforce the structure’s attachment to the wall in order to make it stronger. Such work is especially important for the building’s external insulation.

It is appropriate to discuss the dowels used for a moment. They are made of premium plastic and go by the name "mushrooms" (or "umbrellas"). Dowel installation technology is straightforward: a plastic dowel is hammered in place after a perforator drills a hole into which a "fungus" (also known as an "umbrella") is forced. There should be at least 7-8 dowel-fixed spots on a one-meter-squared surface where the insulation is fixed. It is essential to fully submerge the dowels in the material when using them with metal flats, and sealant should be used to fill the holes that result.

Returning to the contents table

Scheme of foam plastic arrangement

Next, it’s important to decide how the insulation sheets will be arranged. With this in mind, it’s best to create a small plan that will enable you to minimize the number of cuts necessary for a more ideal panel arrangement before cutting the foam (which can be done with the aid of an assembly knife).

It is preferable to select an arrangement scheme that places the insulation sheets in a staggered order.

Next, depending on the curvature of the walls, a thin layer or lapuchas (lumps measuring 1.5–3 cm in height) of adhesive are applied to the back plane of the insulation. The material is then tightly pressed to the base. A bouncing cord that has been stretched from one edge of the surface to the other and onto which the panels are placed is used to control the vertical alignment of the insulated wall.

Following the application of foam paste to every wall, the construction is allowed to fully dry before the necessary finishing touches are made. The suggested approach isn’t always appropriate, though, as it’s important to remember the need for mechanical stability when implementing facade insulation technology. To that end, it’s advised to use fungus to further secure the sheets mechanically.

The fungi’s feet are recessed into holes that have a minimum diameter of 8 mm, which are created when the foam cavity in the wall’s base is directly penetrated. Additionally, the nail sinking is what allows the elements to be fixed; however, you want to get the fungus’s entire cap to be at least 1 mm sunk into the inner part of the insulation. Fixing fungi should be placed so that each sheet has at least five elements (1 – center; 4 – corners); alternatively, multiple adjacent sheets can be fixed with a single fungus.

Foam plastic insulation for balconies can be fastened by mounting the sheets in spur elements of the supporting frame and then cladding them with specialized finishing materials (plastic, MDF, gypsum board). Therefore, even a non-professional builder will not have trouble understanding how to cover the house with foam plastic after studying the method for fixing the insulation.

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We advise you to watch the following video to become familiar with the process of mechanically attaching foam to the wall:

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Where Styrofoam is used

Extruded polystyrene foam is primarily utilized for the insulation of the following building components:

• ceilings;
• floors;
• foundation;
• walls;
• doorways;
• window openings.

When anchored to the floor, this material, for instance, doesn’t lower the room’s height and works well for floors with various heating systems, as well as floor coverings that run on the ground or beneath basements. The following are some benefits of laying this material on the floor:

• high compressive strength;
• maximum application period;
• minimum deformation;
• minimal thermal conductivity.

Polystyrene foam insulation for floors is required in rooms that must withstand high mechanical loads or high humidity levels and are operated at low temperatures.

All you have to do is make sure the insulation boards don’t overlap the concrete joints when styrofoam is nailed directly onto it.

Wall insulation

Both interior and external walls are actively insulated from heat using polystyrene foam. It’s also important to remember that internal wall thermal insulation matters most when a room needs to be quickly insulated.

Expanded polystyrene is installed on exterior walls in the following ways:

• Fastening of the material on the adhesive substance;
• installation of polystyrene foam on the wall on the cement mortar on the basis of fiberglass reinforcement;
• fixing on mastic;
• installation on the wall with special devices.

Expanded polystyrene walls should be treated with a non-flammable material when installed externally:

• bricks;
• stucco;
• ceramic tiles;
• steel profile;
• aluminum profile.

The foundation is constructed and insulated using polystyrene foam as well. Specifically, using it as a permanent formwork will result in a significant reduction in the amount of reinforcement and concrete used. The service life of the basement wall and reinforced concrete foundation is greatly extended by extruded polystyrene foam.

You can view an instructional video about installing extruded polystyrene foam below. And we will go into more detail about it later.

dowel for fixing foam plastic main tasks

It goes without saying that the foam plastic sheet used in insulation systems is thin and nearly weightless. It follows that it does not appear to be bearing any particular weight on the building’s facade. Ordinary people frequently act on these presumptions and disregard the technological requirements of the building’s thermal insulation device. However, the components that add to the insulation system’s impressive weight during assembly are the glue used to affix the sheets to the wall, the exterior plaster, and the decorative materials used for the final finish.

The combined weight of all these elements significantly stresses the foam plastic insulation. Such an insulation system has the potential to eventually drift away from the wall and fall, weighted entirely, to the ground. There is a dowel for foam plastic that can stop such unpleasant outcomes in order to avoid such an accident. The friction force in the supporting base increases as a result of the device—this fastening element operates on the spacer technology principle—preventing it from moving.

Many fasteners use this technological approach; however, the effectiveness of the spacer technology depends on the material in which the fastener is installed. Since the fastening element in our example is installed in the wall, which serves as a supporting structure and can be made of various building materials, the dowel’s holding power will vary. The following are the primary surface types where fasteners will need to be installed:

• Solid hollow base, can be made of concrete blocks with a hollow inside. Hollow brick, which makes it difficult to install fasteners.
• Monolithic hard substrate, concrete, ordinary and silicate bricks can be included in this category.
• Various porous bases, foam concrete, aerated concrete are included in this group of materials.

The holding power of the dowel, or the quantity of fasteners per square meter of the insulating surface, is determined based on the type of material used to construct the wall.

Fastening to the concrete and brick wall

Frequently, a unique batten is created to hold the foam boards for insulation purposes on concrete and brick walls. Sadly, installing it isn’t always feasible, and there are additional expenses. In reality, there is a need for alternative fixing techniques.

1. With the help of an adhesive.

There are quirks with this approach. First of all, certain adhesive ingredients have the potential to degrade foam plastic; second, not all adhesive stickiness is necessary to secure foam plastic to bricks and concrete.

The process of fixing insulation boards follows a specific order:

• the surface is leveled, then it is removed from it dirt and oil deposits;

• the adhesive components are combined according to the instructions. The resulting composition should not contain water, then it will not come off for a long time;

• the adhesive is laid on the board in separate sections so that there is space for air to escape;

• the insulation is pressed and held.

1. With the help of dowels.

The board’s corners and center are selected for fixing. Sealants are applied to joints to improve thermal insulation.

First to be fastened are the boards in the bottom row. Every board has a deformation gap between it to guarantee the stability of the coating in the event of environmental temperature changes.

1. Using a "liquid nail" adhesive compound.

High temperature and moisture resistance are features of this composition. Its usage is peculiar in that it

• To protect against the toxic component of the glue, it is necessary to use special gloves;

• The adhesive composition is applied only in individual points;

• The curing time is no more than 30 minutes.

1. With the help of adhesive foam.

This technique is inexpensive, easy to install, and has good adhesion to brick and concrete.

The surface may not be primed when using foam. It just needs to be cleaned and moisturized.

Either the wall or the foam are covered with adhesive. Following a brief curing period, the boards are arranged in a staggered sequence.

Advantages and disadvantages of foam as an insulator

Comparatively speaking, Styrofoam is a less fussy and more contemporary thermal insulation material than its analogs. This makes the insulation process much simpler, though it still depends on the kind of roof on your home. Its low weight and low thermal conductivity are further characteristics.

Additionally, the following characteristics of foam plastic explain its popularity:

• Low hygroscopicity of the material allows you to save significantly on the purchase and further installation of vapor barrier and waterproofing materials. However, in the case of finishing a wooden house, it is better not to neglect it; Foam insulation
• This material does not give shrinkage after installation, which is why the so-called cold bridges may appear;
• thermal insulation properties are retained for a long time, about 10-20 years, provided that all the rules of installation are followed;
• especially good for use in rooms with low ceilings, as a thickness of 5-6 cm is sufficient for full insulation.

Even with all of its benefits, there are a few drawbacks to this insulator that need to be considered when selecting:

• This material should not be used in those rooms characterized by poor ventilation, because it has the properties of vapor barrier, thereby provoking the formation of condensation and further increase in humidity. This can lead to the appearance of fungus, mold and reduce the effectiveness of the insulator. For people prone to allergies, this is unacceptable;
• In direct contact with an open flame, the material melts, releasing during the process quite harmful substances that can lead to respiratory paralysis.

When selecting a material, be sure the seller can provide quality certificates. This will shield you from purchasing subpar products that could worsen your health.

To keep your home comfortable and cut down on energy expenses, make sure your insulation is adequate. Because of its great thermal qualities and simplicity of installation, polystyrene foam is a popular choice for insulation. This article has covered the entire process of attaching polystyrene foam to the wall, beginning with the setup.

Enough wall surface preparation is necessary before beginning the installation process. In order to prevent any dirt, dust, or debris from interfering with the foam panels’ ability to adhere, the wall must be cleaned. Before moving further, check the wall for any imperfections or cracks that might need to be fixed.

Now that the wall is spotless and clear of flaws, the adhesive should be applied. Selecting the appropriate adhesive is essential to guarantee a strong connection between the foam panels and the wall. When applying the adhesive, make sure to carefully follow the manufacturer’s instructions, paying special attention to coverage and drying times.

It’s now time to attach the polystyrene foam panels to the wall using the adhesive. Press each panel firmly into position, making sure the adhesive is covered and aligned correctly. To make sure the panels are plumb and straight, use a level and make any necessary adjustments as you go.

Sealing the joints and edges is crucial to preventing air leakage and moisture infiltration once the foam panels are firmly in place. A suitable sealant or tape made especially for use with polystyrene foam insulation can be used for this.

These instructions will help you attach polystyrene foam to your walls in an efficient manner, increasing your home’s insulation and energy efficiency. To guarantee the greatest outcomes, always remember to take your time and pay close attention to details. Polystyrene foam insulation can offer your home durable thermal protection when installed correctly.

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