The principle of operation of the Maevsky tap

Knowing how household fixtures function can be very helpful in maintaining a comfortable and effective home. The Maevsky tap is one such fixture that is essential to a home’s heating system. This little device, in spite of its unassuming appearance, is essential to making sure that your heating system runs smoothly and effectively.

Usually located on boilers and radiators, the Maevsky tap gets its name from its creator, Nikolay Maevsky. Its main purpose is to let the heating system’s trapped air out. One may wonder why removing air from a heating system is necessary in the first place. Over time, air bubbles can build up and result in inefficient heat distribution as well as possibly noisy operation. By offering a practical means of clearing the system of extra air, the Maevsky tap contributes to the solution of this problem.

So how does the magic of the Maevsky tap happen? Really, it’s very easy. The tap has a small manual valve that needs to be opened with a special key or tool. When the valve is opened, any trapped air can be released. This usually results in a hissing sound. Bleeding the system or the radiator is the term for this procedure.

To keep your heating system operating efficiently, you must regularly use the Maevsky tap to bleed your radiators. You can make sure that hot water flows freely through the pipes and radiators, efficiently warming your house, by clearing out any trapped air. This lowers energy waste and heating costs in addition to increasing the level of comfort in your living area.

In summary, even though the Maevsky tap might appear to be a small part of your heating system, its importance in maintaining effective operation cannot be overstated. You can save money on energy bills and maintain a comfortable temperature in your home by learning how this easy-to-maintain device functions.

How to install and drain air

It is now worthwhile to learn how to install the Maevsky faucet.

An adaptor for the Maevskoi tap

This can be done easily and without the need to call a master. All you have to do is take out the radiator’s side plug. All that’s left to do is insert the valve into the plug hole.

Every radiator in a horizontal heating system has an air vent installed on it.

A tee is fixed on the towel dryer, where the lateral connection is implied. The tap should be positioned vertically, with its opening facing away from the wall.

If there are locations in the heating system lower than the upper axis of the device connection, the Maevsky valve installation on the radiator is required. It is impossible for air to exit independently in this position.

Local issues could eventually develop as a result of air seeping into the system during operation and air bubbles building up in the coolant.

After the heating system is installed, air must be removed right away because radiator plugs always occur when the system first turns on. This work must be done as well when turning on the heating system after the summer.

The discharge of hydrogen during the corrosive process of the network’s metal components may also be the source of air formation. Without a specific inner wall coating, aluminum radiators release hydrogen into the liquid gradually and react chemically with it.

The following paragraphs provide an explanation of the heating system venting principle of operation:

1. First you need to prepare a container for the liquid and a rag.
2. If air has accumulated – remove. The Maevsky valve manually, with the use of a key or screwdriver is turned once counterclockwise. The air masses will make a hissing sound and will be removed from the radiator. There is too much accumulated air? Then you can turn the tap a little bit more. It is left in the open position until liquid starts to seep out of the hole and air stops escaping.
3. Now the shut-off valve can be closed. If the heating system has pumps for forced circulation of the coolant, they must be turned off some time before the air bleeding works. Otherwise, the plug will not be able to be removed completely.

Large trunk lines are typically not equipped with manual valves because air plug accumulation happens frequently there. Other devices are used to divert gases for these systems.

How to choose the right device

The Maevsky valve is designed and modified in a variety of ways nowadays.

When purchasing a valve, there are a few subtleties to take into account. The brass base serves as the primary durability indicator.

Apart from the metal itself, you should also be mindful of the thread quality, the simplicity of the valve opening mechanism, and whether or not the connector has a rubber band for sealing. The incoming pipe has a diameter of 1, 1/2, and 1/4 inches.

Contemporary gadgets come pre-assembled with a plastic valve, saving the owner from having to make do with homemade tools. However, these models are not very useful in rooms where kids are frequently present.

A comfortable-handled valve

The table provides a clear example by displaying models from various manufacturers along with a price indication.

Image	Manufacturer	Modification type	Price, rub.
	JSC "BAZ"	Manual, 1/2 in	35
	Plumber"s World	Automatic, 1 inch	449
	Thermo-house	Manual, 1/2 inch	310
	RBM	Manual, 3/4 inch	352
	Carlo Poletti	Manual, 3/4 inch	318
"Delta"	Automatic with fuse	335

How it works

The Maevsky valve, also known as a needle radiator air valve, is classified as a shut-off valve under state standards.

These air vents come in a variety of design options, so the location of the attachment point can be taken into consideration when selecting the device (for convenience).

The Maevsky valve’s standard device is made up of two parts:

• tapered screw;
• body.

Because of calibration, parts are near to one another. As a result, the faucet stays tightly closed, holding the liquid in place. There is an air bleed hole on the body’s side.

Because brass has a strong resistance to corrosion, it is typically used to make valves like this one, which ensures a long service life. Using a screwdriver or professional wrench, one can manually open a Mayevsky faucet, depending on its design.

The Maevsky faucet is made in a way that makes pulling water from it awkward.

There is an upper fluid outlet string and a lower water supply pipe in a vertical heating system. The top floor apartments are all equipped with air vents. These valves are chosen based on their diameter and inserted into the batteries’ upper lugs.

What is a Majewski valve?

At the start of the 20th century, efforts were made to find a solution for the issue of air plug formation in heating systems. The taps were actively used for this purpose; they were able to handle the task of draining air, but they were also frequently used to drain water from the heating circuit for other uses in addition to their intended use.

The heating system suffered from uncontrolled coolant discharge because it could lead to more air plug formation and pressure variations in the pipes. Additionally, individuals who use the radiators may suffer from the hot water that enters them.

The air vent inventor, Ch.Б. Mayevsky, created a method to seal the components of the valve rather than the valve itself for draining air. Mayevsky proposed joining the tap cone’s components to the cone. Because of this, the heating system assembly’s tightness could be maintained in the closed position. Drawing water from the heater was also inconvenient with such a design.

Device and principle of operation

Brass and other corrosion-resistant materials are used to make Maevsky faucets. To make the metal casing look more elegant from the outside, a plastic shell can be added.

The Maevsky valve’s primary design components are as follows:

• body with inlet calibration and outlet drain holes,
• cone needle valve,
• sealing ring,
• valve or a locking screw with a key or screwdriver head.

The air vent’s design can be altered, expanded with additional components, and given a different thread diameter all while maintaining the same operational principle.

When the needle valve is closed, the system remains tightly sealed and prevents coolant from escaping. The needle slides and releases the drain hole when the locking screw is turned.

Air enters the valve through the calibration hole from the battery and exits through the drain hole. Following the release of air, hot water is poured into the hollow that was created, the coolant’s circulation is restarted, and the pipe pressure is balanced.

How to perform the correct installation of the Maevsky faucet

Installing a Maevsky faucet requires specific knowledge and is not a simple task.

When installing such a device, silicone or rubber gaskets are essential. Be careful to match the tap size to the inlet hole when installing such a device.

Mounting the faucet while the towel dryer is being installed

The hot water inlet is located on the other side of the radiator from the device, which is mounted to it on the upper portions. The following actions are involved in installation:

• Before operation, it is necessary to free the system from water;
• The newest batteries have slots for the faucets. If there are plugs, the faucet instead of them should be installed so that the opening was turned away from the wall and had a downward slope.

The quality of the installation as a whole is impacted by proper installation.

A slit and thread cut are made in the plug section to facilitate the attachment of the air ventilator to the "second-hand" battery. Next, a key for the Maevsky tap is used to connect the main device.

Components of a valve-equipped towel dryer

Installation of an automatic air vent: the principle of operation

Items in the automatic category have a brass sealed body. A float located inside the mechanism is linked to a drain valve. Only in the presence of an open locking cap will such a device function. The cap is unscrewed a few turns prior to operation.

Depending on the particular product type, the automatic air vent’s working principle varies. In all, there are three different kinds of devices:

• straight models are mounted vertically;
• Angled ones are installed at a certain angle;
• special devices on radiators.

Poor coolant quality can cause the air outlet hole to become clogged, which makes the valve fit loosely.

The automatic type air vent device is visible on the scheme.

The basic principle of operation of the Maevsky valve and its varieties

The float principle is the foundation of the needle valve. The outlet valve opens when the float is raised by the accumulated air.

Types of faucet

Maevsky’s device comes in multiple varieties:

• A classic manually operated device with a propeller.
• Automatic design, designed for individual heating systems.
• Device with a safety valve. Protects the system from excessive internal pressure fluctuations. Particularly suitable for systems with plastic pipes.

Ball valves vary in appearance and functionality.

The CM may also come in the following variations:

• conventional version with a thread;
• with a plastic cap (suitable only for heating appliances);
• ball valves.

Towel dryers require the air outlet opening to be oriented away from the wall when the air venting device is installed.

Design and operating principle of the automatic air ventilator

The same float principle underpins the automatic KM. The float rises and releases air as a result of the accumulated air, then it settles back down.

The heating automatic air vent’s schematic operating principle

Venting of air within the automated valve

This valve doesn’t need any special maintenance; once installed, you won’t even be aware of it. An automatic Maevsky faucet typically has a brass or nickel-plated body and can be manually opened in the event of a "fire."

Kindly take note! Experts in heating system installation advise against adding an automatic CM to vintage cast iron heating radiators. Such a system’s water is tainted with various contaminants, which quickly clog and render the faucet inoperable.

Cast iron battery material has the potential to clog the air valve opening.

Purchasing a Maevsky valve for cast-iron radiators makes sense for central heating systems. They are used in steam heating and can tolerate temperatures of up to 155 degrees Celsius and fifteen atmospheres of pressure. The designation MC140 is found on the label of these devices.

Information that is helpful! The small outlet valve diameter is another reason why automatic CMs are not used in central heating systems. It is only two millimeters, and the next shutdown will take several hours to release air from the central system, which will be annoying due to its hissing.

Installation and operation

The website teplodvor.ru

Making the proper installation point selection is crucial to the Maevsky valve installation process. The radiator’s upper segment, which is the side opposite the point where hot water enters the radiator, needs to have a section. This is the location of the significant air accumulations.

The majority of contemporary radiators already include a designated area for the Maevsky tap installation. It is plugged shut prior to installation. After completely draining the heating system of all water, it should be removed, and the tap should then be fixed in its proper location.

Unique rubber sealing gaskets are used to ensure the most reliable connection possible. Furthermore, the thread needs to be gently sealed using linseed oilcloth or FUM-tape.

The Maevsky faucet is typically not installed in older cast-iron radiators, so the installation process will be a little more difficult. Such a radiator has a sizable plug in the side. It needs to have a hole drilled in it, with the diameter being just slightly less than the faucet’s threads.

Threading is then made inside this hole with the aid of special dies. Lastly, just like with contemporary radiators, the Maevsky valve is installed and sealed. Remember that all work is done exclusively when the heating system is devoid of water.

Next, let’s learn how to empty the radiator of excess air using the Maevsky valve. Since the others function without the need for human intervention, it is only natural that we discuss the manual variety.

1. As a preparation, place a basin or other empty container on the floor under the place where the work will take place. Also prepare a rag. When you bleed the air, at some point water will pour out, so you should prevent it from getting on the floor.
2. If the operability of your heating system is ensured by the use of special pumps, they should be turned off at least 10 minutes before you open the tap. During the operation of such pumps, air does not have time to accumulate at a certain point, instead it is dispersed with the water throughout the system, so there will be no use of bleed-off.
3. After the preparation is complete, you need to very carefully unscrew the locking screw. This is done either with the special wrench provided or simply with a screwdriver. You need to make a counterclockwise turn, approximately ¼ or ½ turn. Once again we will mention the neatness. Turn the screw very smoothly, especially if you are carrying out the initial start-up of a new radiator.
4. As the screw is turned, air will begin to escape through the faucet. This moment can be determined by a specific hissing sound. You need to hold the faucet in the open position until water flows out of it instead of air. At first, the jet will be intermittent – this means that the process is not yet complete. And when the stream becomes uninterrupted, you can close the Maevsky faucet.

If the batteries did not begin to heat up following this procedure, the issue is not with the presence of air. There’s probably a blockage in the heating system. You’ll need to contact a plumbing team because you can’t handle it on your own.

As you can see, there is nothing difficult about using the Maevsky tap to drain the air from the radiator. However, there could be two issues. First, obstructions in the hole meant for the release of air occasionally occur. In this instance, all you need to do is use a needle or another thin, sharp object to solve the issue.

Second, the adjusting screw might be rusty if you don’t frequently vent the battery. It is obvious that turning it in this circumstance will be difficult. You will need a specific lubricating spray in this situation, which is available in the relevant stores.

After applying this product to the screw threads, give it a few minutes to work. The unscrewing process should then be painless. Every time after Mayevsky, apply a unique silicone-based lubricant to the adjusting screw to avoid similar circumstances in the future. By doing this, the heating system’s air and water exposure will be reduced.

With the right use and maintenance, even the most basic and affordable Maevsky tap can provide faithful and honest service for many years. Thus, remember to lubricate and clean this equipment on a regular basis. In this scenario, your home will always be reliably heated by the batteries. Wishing you luck!

The principle of operation of the Mayevsky valve

It is essential to comprehend the Mayevsky valve’s design. This valve is properly referred to as the air lock release valve. To clear the air from the radiators and heating system, turn on the tap.

To ensure that heating devices operate normally, this "air" faucet is required.

The truth is that too much air frequently builds up in the heating system, which interferes with the coolant’s (hot water’s) regular flow through the pipe system. Furthermore, Maevsky faucet handles this issue flawlessly.

In the sewer system, air plugs can also occur; to remove them, specific valves are utilized. You can read more about it at

There is a name for the Maevsky faucet in technical literature:

• Shut-off equipment;
• Release faucet;
• Radiator needle variant.

This straightforward gadget was created in the USSR in 1930, a long time ago. This device was initially installed to stop people from actively removing water from the heating system to meet their own needs. Another incredibly helpful feature of this apparatus—the ability to modify the operation of the entire water heating system—was also discovered while it was in use. The Maevsky faucet is made up of a housing and an inward-twisting cone element. It is a very basic device.

Features of operation

Think about how to operate the Maevsky tap. It is best to do this with a container under the radiator and a dry cloth nearby. The locking screw can be turned a quarter or half turn counterclockwise with a key or screwdriver. A hissing sound will indicate that air is beginning to leave the system. Water will come out of the faucet when it is fully out. You must wait until the water begins to run continuously. The shut-off screw can then be put back on after that.

Bleeding the air from the radiator is very simple if you know what to do.

The radiator is likely clogged if the air was successfully deflated but it is still cold. Plumbers’ assistance will be required to clean the clogged battery.

Advice: Prior to venting the air, turn off any composition pumps in the heating system that are responsible for forcing the coolant to circulate. This should be done about ten minutes beforehand. When the pumps are turned on, the water flow will distribute the air throughout the system rather than causing it to build up at the top of the radiator.

If the faucet’s hole is clogged, a needle or other sharp object can be used to clean it.

The tap’s adjusting screw may be difficult to turn if it hasn’t been used in a long time because of corrosion. In such a case, apply WD-40 spray lubricant. It is easily unscrewed after a few minutes of applying it to the screw’s threads. It is preferable to lubricate the adjusting screw with silicone grease at the conclusion of the heating season. In this instance, the coolant’s impact on the thread won’t cause it to break.

Use two adjustable wrenches if the Maewski valve needs to be replaced. To unscrew the tap, use one wrench to hold the radiator plug in place and another to loosen it. Failing to do so may cause the plug to become less strong and lose its tightness when you unscrew the tap.

We have examined how to use the Maevsky valve to independently deflate the air in the system and how to run the apparatus automatically. This gadget won’t give its owners any problems for a very long time if you give it the required maintenance, including regular checks and cleanings.

The Maevsky faucet is priced between 30 and 40 rubles, depending on its type, manufacturing material, and diameter.

Replacing the Maevsky valve

When an item is left unused for an extended period of time, it may "stick" to the inlet, rust and become unusable.

It’s time to replace that drain. In addition to the radiators itself

Even with the outlet channels in the open position, cold spots on the battery will indicate this. It is necessary to replace the valve if the situation has not improved after cleaning. How it takes place:

• Any available grease is used for sliding the stuck structure to the internal thread of the radiator.

The elements will become pliable with a few drops of oil. Information that is helpful! In a matter of minutes, a few drops of remedy will enable you to remove the antiquated Maevsky faucet.

• Release of the radiator or pipe from the Mayevsky valve is with the help of an adjustable wrench or two, if there is confidence in the further use of the design.

Maevsky valve maintenance: removal for cleaning

In this instance, the valve plug is held in place with the help of a second tool to prevent it from loosening.

• Revision of the valve is carried out. Sometimes it is enough to clean the screw with a needle to get a working design.

The collapsible design makes cleaning easier.

In the event that nothing changes, the Maevsky valve is changed. The above description of the instructions is simple.

Periodic maintenance and replacement of unserviceable equipment are necessary for any utility system. Its operation won’t be effective until then.

Efficiency is crucial when it comes to insulation and heating your house. Appropriate insulation ensures year-round comfort while reducing energy costs by keeping heat inside during the winter and blocking out excessive heat during the summer. To create a thermal barrier, cellulose, foam board, or fiberglass are effective insulation materials that can be installed in attics, walls, and floors. When paired with energy-efficient heating systems like heat pumps, boilers, or furnaces, a well-insulated house keeps a constant temperature without using a lot of energy. By lowering carbon emissions, routine maintenance and improvements to heating and insulation systems not only improve comfort but also support environmental sustainability.

Technical specifications

Selecting the Maevsky valve based on parameters is simple because it only serves to remove air from the heating system. It is important to remember that the valve needs to be appropriate for the heating system. While different models of the network will work well in a country house, it is best to choose an apartment based on temperature and pressure. These requirements are available from a particular company.

These are the GOST-specified technical specifications for the Maevsky valve.

Working environment	Can be of two types, and in this regard there are valves that work with liquids – drinking or technical water and other non-aggressive liquids, and air valves for steam and compressed air.
Operating temperature	Many devices operate at a temperature of +100-120 ° C. But there are modifications that work with coolants up to +150 °С.
Pressure	Many have a rating of 10 atmospheres. If the pressure in the heating system is higher, which is rare, experts advise installing a tap Maevsky, which is able to withstand 16 atmospheres. Sometimes you can see the marking Ru, which means the nominal pressure, which for a piping device according to GOST 356-80 corresponds to the values of 1.0 and 1.6 MPa, respectively. This is the stable fluid pressure that the vent can withstand during the entire time of operation.
Thread type	Can be of two types: internal and external. External can be 1, ½ or ¾ inches. In the marking such valves will have the designation Du 25, Du 15 and Du 20 respectively, where the numbers denote the connection size in millimeters. The metric thread can be 10 mm with a thread pitch of 1 mm. Designation in the marking M10x1.
Body material	Usually it is steel 20 (structural carbon steel) or brass. These materials are the least susceptible to reaction and corrosion, so the choice is made on them. The same increases the life of the products. With this characteristic is associated and the class of tightness. Not every manufacturing company specifies it, so it should be remembered that according to GOST 9544-93 for the Maevsky valve it should be class A (without visible leaks).

How to drain the air

• Remove any valuables that may be spoiled by contact with water away from the radiator from which the water will be vented.
• Prepare in advance a container in which you will collect the water coming out of the faucet.
  When opening the Maevsky valve begins to hiss – do not be afraid of this. Water will not rush out of the radiator, because the drain hole in the valve is quite small.
• If you are bleeding air from a system with forced circulation, it is necessary to turn off the pump beforehand. Otherwise, the air will not be able to rise to a sufficient level for the outlet.

• Carefully and slowly turn the valve counterclockwise.
• When air flows out of the hole and a hissing sound is heard, the rotation can be stopped.
• Leave the faucet open until water starts to come out of the faucet. If the liquid comes out intermittently and with bubbles, it means that there is still a certain amount of air in the system. Wait for the moment when the jet will beat uninterruptedly.

The battery is clogged if, following the procedures, it does not get warm throughout the whole volume. Cleaning is something you cannot do on your own; you will need to hire an expert.

Read up on additional options as well.

Nuances in the process of operation

Here is a comprehensive guide explaining every manipulation needed to ensure that the process of venting the accumulated air in the system proceeds without causing any unintended consequences.

• If the movement of the heat exchanger is due to the circulation pump, then it must be turned off. It is done 15 minutes before the start of work. This is necessary for the air to stop mixing with the water and accumulate at the top of the battery.

Pump cut off

• Stock up with a dry cloth and an empty bucket, because when you open the valve, you need to wait until the air stops hissing, then water will pour out. Close the valve only when the water starts to flow smoothly and not intermittently.
• What to do if the air does not stop venting? Look for a breakdown or loose twist in the area of the battery being serviced. It can be done with a piece of paper. Leave the valve open and use a paper with a distance of 1 cm on all possible places on the radiator and pipes approaching it. Having found a place of air infiltration, replace the damaged element.
• When the air vent system has not been used for several years, the valve threads can become sour. You will have to use a lubricant such as WD-40, and then with light tapping on the valve to try to unscrew it.

Automatic tap Maevsky

Using a manual valve is relatively simple; even for people who have never been interested in heating system repair, there are no problems. Nonetheless, it makes sense to install a tap with an automated air venting feature in locations where the system is continuously inflated. The improper installation of heating pipes may be the root of the overabundance of air issue. It is possible to avoid constantly having to manually remove air with an automatic air vent. This model is particularly practical for installations in areas requiring a lot of labor.

Maevsky valve operated automatically

Although automatic type air vents may have different design elements, their functionality always stays the same. The body has a hollow area where a plastic float is located. With the aid of a flag, it presses the spring-loaded stem, opening the atmosphere’s entrance and expelling the air. The float closes the hole and stops the liquid from flowing out when the cavity is filled with liquid by pressing on the stem.

A shut-off valve is attached to the device to facilitate repair work in the event that the old valve breaks or needs to be replaced. It is worthwhile to attach the air diverter after screwing it into the heating system. Liquid leakage is stopped by the faucet by applying pressure to the valve’s flag.

Large quantities of these automated devices are available in professional stores. Radiator, corner, and unique direct air vents are visible. As a result, the gadget is compatible with all heating systems.

Blowing in the radiator what it is and how to determine it

What does the heating radiator’s air blockage mean? An accumulation of air, usually in the upper section of the heating radiator, is understood under this term. When someone lives on the bottom floor of a multi-story house, this becomes a problem and happens frequently. There could be a number of causes for this kind of issue:

• Repair work on the site/neighboring floors. In the event that in the residential square was carried out with heating pipes, there is a high probability of getting into the system of a small flow of air.
• There is a leak in one of the sections (which means that the system must be checked immediately to eliminate the leak).
• Peculiarity of the underfloor heating system. The problem of the system is really a frequent picture in the presence of a floor heating system, especially if it has a complex scheme and a lot of branches.

Radiator made of cast iron

• Water that has a high temperature contains air and the more often it is renewed in the system, the more likely the malfunction will occur.
• If the appearance of the air "plug" in time coincides with the start-up of the general heating main – with a greater degree of probability we can say that it is the start-up of the system caused the air blockage.

Advice: If you live in a private home, you should generally not worry too much about the air in the system (if it is small). This is because, in most cases, private heating systems only have very infrequent coolant changes, so the air should naturally deflate in a few days.

Determining whether an air "plug" is present is fairly simple. For instance, a blockage may be present if the radiator’s water temperature has dropped noticeably, the radiator is only partially cold, or it may even begin to gurgle.

Important points for maintenance

1. The device should be installed directly on the heater.
2. Do not keep the Maevsky valve open all the time, otherwise the radiator may fail.

If you plan to use a tap to release air from the main line, stay away from the procedure’s source of fire and avoid smoking close to the tap. The truth is that combustible gases are frequently released along with air and can catch fire with even the smallest spark. Generally, all you need to service the air vent is a screwdriver. However, on occasion, a unique key might be required (for instance, if the device is situated in an unreachable area, like a niche).

Rust may develop on the threads of the device if it hasn’t been used in a while. As a result, turning the screw will be challenging. It is then advised to treat the thread with kerosene and wait five minutes before turning.

Device and principle of operation

As previously mentioned, the devices’ performance will be greatly diminished if radiators are not deflated because the hot heat carrier will arrive incomplete. Additionally, the Maevsky valve works on the principle of removing air bubbles from the central heating system’s batteries; all you need to do this is a special wrench or screwdriver.

It should be noted that these taps can be mounted on towel rails in addition to radiators.

The air vents that are being described may come in different models and configurations (we will discuss classification in more detail later), but they all operate on the same fundamental idea. This device is essentially a tapered rod that, when screwed in, closes the through hole. When it comes to the materials used in its construction, only brass and steel are utilized. These metals really have the highest resistance to moisture.

Observe further that the Maevsky taps are identical to one another except for the external thread diameter, even with their apparent wide range of variations. Its diameter could be:

1. 0.5 inches;
2. 0.75 inches;
3. the smallest products, which used to be found in cast-iron radiators, and today – in floor-type radiators.

Retail price table

Product Name	Price with VAT, rubles.
11B27p(m) with drain DU-15	134,6
11B27p(m)1 with Mayevsky tap DU-15	144,7
11B27p(m)2 with Mayevsky valve DU-15 with thread G 1/2	144,7
Maevsky valve Du-15	29,5

To reiterate, the Maevsky faucet consists of a body into which a cone-shaped screw is inserted, as well as the screw itself. There are frequently air locks in the system when the liquid is fed in, and this device is essential in those situations. The primary indicator of an inflated system is inadequate radiator warming, even though the system’s liquid temperature is already elevated. This occurs as a result of low flow rate or insufficient liquid volume.

The configuration allows keys to be used in addition to screwdrivers to open the devices. They have a thread in them; all you have to do is turn it half a turn counterclockwise to open and release the air. Following this, you’ll hear a distinctive hissing sound that denotes air leaving the system. You can turn off the tap when the liquid flows evenly, as it will eventually come out with it. Yes, even someone who is far from a heating system can manage it because the screw only needs to be turned once.

Dismantled Maevsky manhood

Kindly take note! In centralized heating systems, the air vent is a convenient manual device to use. However, it’s advised to install an automatic valve that can remove air on its own as needed if the system is closed or individual. We’re getting ahead of ourselves, though.

The Maevsky valve is incredibly easy to operate. Neither specialized knowledge nor specialized equipment are needed. Additionally, since the thread is universal, there won’t be any problems during the installation process.

The heating system will produce less heat over time than it did initially due to deposits and scale buildup. Strategies for handling this

Video – Maevsky valve principle of operation

Features of inclusion in the heating system

When installing air-draining taps, there are certain quirks involved in how they fit into the existing radiator plug bodies. In most cases, the left-hand thread is used to screw in radiator plugs. Since the faucet is screwed to the right, the plumber must use one key to tighten the plug and another to tighten the air vent at the same time. However, these are petty matters, and it is beneficial to be aware of those who lack experience in these areas.

Diagrams for installing radiators vertically using Maevsky taps. The diagram illustrates how the precise location of the air vents is decided by the type of connection.

There are certain unique aspects to the air venting device installation scheme. Thus, in a system of radiators designed with a vertical device arrangement plan, air-draining valves are typically mounted on the highest level radiators.

However, in the parallel connection scheme, even in a vertical structure, Maevsky installed taps in the upper and lower levels’ heating devices. Additionally, in the practice of plumbing, installation is typically carried out while accounting for the potential buildup of air in the system.

An additional variation of the popular scheme used in households. In this version, air-draining components are installed on every heating system radiator.

Each heating device typically has air vents if the heating system is installed using the horizontal scheme. Air-draining taps are generally a desirable addition to almost any heating system equipment. The actual apparatus is vulnerable to:

• all heating batteries in the system;
• compensators, bypasses and similar devices;
• registers and coils;
• pipelines of the upper level of the heating system.

In certain schematic solutions, the Maevsky valve’s location on towel dryers is even specified. Incidentally, there are towel dryer models available that feature a Maevsky tap entry point.

Eliminating the air lock

There is a special valve on a battery that helps to remove air from it. An old-fashioned radiator wrench is required. A standard screwdriver or a unique small metal or plastic wrench, available at a hardware or construction store, can be used to operate the Maevsky valve found on modern models.

The following is the order of events:

• It is necessary to put a sufficiently capacious container to the radiator. At deflation of air from a radiator some quantity of water will be necessarily allocated. It is better not to let it get on the floor.
• In movies and in life you can see plumbers, wet from head to toe, draining water. Indeed, this operation may be accompanied by splashing of water pressurized in the system. This is not only unpleasant, but can also cause damage to the finish of the walls or furniture. To solve the problem is quite simple: you need to hang a rag on the valve, which will retain all the splashes, and the water will quietly drain into a bucket or basin.
• Using a wrench or screwdriver, carefully unscrew the valve until you hear a clear hissing sound of air escaping.

• Water will begin to drip as it is vented. It is necessary to wait until it does not pour out a thin trickle. The valve can be closed as soon as there is no more air bubbling in this stream. This operation usually takes 5-7 minutes.

Tip: Drain at least two or three buckets of water, per professional advice, to avoid having to repeat the bleeding process too frequently. By doing this, you can be sure that the radiator is totally free of air.

An operation’s visual aid will be a video.

[smartcontrol_youtube_shortcode cnt="2" col="2" shls="true" key="vent the battery"]

An extremely useful tool is the automated air vent system. In this case, the process happens automatically: the float is lowered to seal the drain hole when air builds up. After deflating, the float is put back in place. One major drawback of these devices is the higher standards for coolant quality. Because of their rapid failure rate, they are therefore rarely installed in apartment buildings with centralized heating.

The device of the Maevsky valve and the principle of its operation

Only in the public setting is this hygienic appliance referred to as the Mayevsky tap. According to state standards, it is referred to as a needle radiator air valve and falls under the stopcock category.

Currently, the market provides a number of Mayevsky tap constructions. This enables you to select the option that best suits your needs while keeping the installation location in mind. The traditional design consists of two components:

• screw of conical shape;
• casing.

When the valve is closed, the coolant is reliably held in place by the elements fitting tightly against one another thanks to calibration. The body’s side has an opening for air to escape.

Brass is the most common material for Mayevsky taps. This alloy will last a long time because of its high level of corrosion resistance. The Maevsky faucet can be opened by hand, with a special ICMA key, or with a screwdriver, depending on the design variation.

In a vertical heating system, consisting of a lower water supply pipe and an upper thread of the coolant outlet, such elements are equipped with all devices located on the upper floor. Maevsky taps are selected by diameter and screwed into the upper lugs of radiators. In a horizontal heating system, these devices are installed on each battery. For towel dryer side connection in the bathroom tee is used. It is mounted in a vertical position, the opening of the valve should be directed away from the wall. Installation of Maevsky valves on radiators, convectors is necessary if the heating system has areas located lower than the upper axis of the device connection. In this position natural venting is not possible.

Deflating is required right away after the heating system is installed because, in any case, radiator plugs start to accumulate at the beginning of operation. When the system is turned on after the summer, the following tasks must be completed. As a result, localized issues may arise as a result of air bubbles in the coolant or the system sucking in air while it is operating. The release of hydrogen during the corrosion of the communication’s metal components is another factor contributing to the buildup of air. This element is continuously released into the coolant by aluminum radiators without a special inner surface coating, where it reacts chemically with the coolant.

Prior to beginning the task, it is required

• Prepare a container for water and a rag, to avoid flooding the floors in the room;
• If necessary, remove air. Turn the Maevsky faucet by hand, screwdriver or wrench counterclockwise one turn. At that air starts to come out of the radiator with a hissing sound. If there is a lot of it, you can turn the valve another half-turn. It is left open until water starts to drip out of the hole, and then water flows out, and the air stops coming out.
• After that the faucet can be tightly closed. If the system is equipped with pumps, for forced circulation, a few minutes before air bleeding, they should be turned off. Otherwise it will not be possible completely remove the plug, so that air does not have time to accumulate in the upper part of the radiator.

Manual The Maevsky faucet is not typically utilized in large mains because air plug accumulation occurs continuously there. Different gas venting designs are employed for these systems.

Differences between automatic and manual valves

The Maevsky faucet comes in a variety of styles, but the most popular ones are the automatic and manual varieties.

Different types of valves have different designs, installation sequences, operating principles, and usage conditions. The following distinctions between manual and automatic Maevsky valve models should be considered when selecting one:

• Automatic air vent, unlike the manual one, has a more complex design;
• Manual tap provides air discharge by forcibly unscrewing the stop screw, the automatic device functions independently, not requiring human intervention;
• The automatic Maevsky valve is sensitive to the clogging of heating radiators, so it should be periodically cleaned;
• Manual models can be operated for a long time on any type of heating systems, automatic Maevsky valves are more effective in autonomous systems, less prone to clogging;
• If manual air vents can be installed on cast iron radiators, automatic devices are better for modern radiators with corrosion protection.
• It is better to buy them with installation, because.к. independent installation can lead to undesirable consequences!

The reasons for the formation of plugs in the heating system are as follows

As practically everyone encounters this issue at some point in their lives, the question of whether or not to remove the formed air plugs from the heating system at this time is highly pertinent. If the radiators do not have Maevsky taps, you can occasionally release the trapped air by unscrewing the radiator’s plug.

This venting technique is extremely risky because the plug could be torn off if it is unscrewed carelessly or forcefully. This will cause the room to flood.

Furthermore, since the heating system is powered by high system pressure, it might take a while to fix the issue, which would affect multiple apartments as well as just one. Furthermore, pumping out air won’t solve the issue.

The majority of the time, partial heating system replacements or errors in the system’s design result in deflation of the system.

A broken central heating system frequently has additional causes. Physical wear and tear on the heating system’s components can occasionally result in air plugs filling heating radiators.

To make sure air plugs don’t build up in the system, you need to:

1. It is necessary to make sure that the heating system is in normal, serviceable technical condition and is able to pass water;
2. Clarify exactly when the heating system in your area was replaced, perhaps a major repair of the heating mains is required;
3. The start-up of the central heating system of a residential building can only be carried out by specialists, and in accordance with the installation rules.
4. When installing individual heating, it is imperative to comply with the general requirements for this type of heating scheme.
5. When filling water into the system, it is necessary to gradually remove air from the system at the same time.
6. For timely removal of air from the system, in its upper point, or at the top of the towel dryer, it is recommended to install an automatic air ventilator.

The specifics of each heating system determine the subtleties of its operation. Water circulates correctly and is not inflated when a system is designed properly and installed competently.

The system’s air is also evacuated via expansion tanks. Other aspects of heating systems are enhanced by their installation as well. You can read the following article on our website to learn more about selecting the best expansion tank:

Causes of blowing

Air in the heating system is not inherently problematic. However, if there is an excessive amount, it eventually gathers in one area, which is typically found in the system’s upper segment or heating battery. Consequently, an air lock forms and stops the coolant from flowing normally. The house warms up very slowly because the heated liquid cannot circulate fully, causing the radiators to get cold.

Nevertheless, air-logging has additional drawbacks. The air that is present within the heating apparatus encourages corrosion processes to occur. Put simply, the battery starts to corrode from the inside out, which causes its walls to thin. Eventually, their tightness breaks and leaks happen. Furthermore, rust particles disperse throughout the system with the coolant, clogging components like the heating boiler and elements.

Variations in temperature can also be a detrimental factor in the formation of an air lock. On the edges of these regions, cracks and leaks may occur if one section of the radiator is heated normally while the second part of the radiator cannot really get coolant. This is particularly true of products made of cast iron, which are highly susceptible to temperature changes.

But it’s not just radiators that suffer damage. For instance, wear happens very quickly when an air lock forms around the circulation pump’s bearings because there is more friction between them. A poorly operating heating system overall is indicated by non-functioning circulation equipment.

As you can see, there are a good number of drawbacks. Stopping air from entering the system is the simplest method of avoiding them. Sadly, it’s not always feasible to do this. Now let’s examine how air masses build up within the heating circuit. The following elements may contribute to this:

• incorrect start-up of the heating system. Turning on the coolant supply should be done at a slow pace. Several times in the process of filling the system it is necessary to remove the air that was there earlier. If you (or those who were responsible for the process) hurriedly, it could well lead to a blowout;
• The presence of a leak in any part of the heating system. It does not matter whether it is a violation of the integrity of the pipe wall or a poor-quality connection of segments – in any case, the violation of tightness leads to the entry of air into the system. Of course, it will penetrate very little, but sooner or later it will accumulate, forming a plug;
• installation of a new heating battery. In the process of installing the radiator, air is bound to get into the system. Ideally, it should be vented at start-up. If this is not done, then sooner or later the blockage will have a negative effect on the performance of the heating system;
• low quality coolant. This problem is very common in centralized heating systems. But in private homes, this is also possible, if the owners do not pay due attention to the quality of the liquid used. Water can be saturated with both air and various chemical elements that have a negative impact on the equipment. Quite often owners pour natural water into the system – for example, from the nearest pond. Consequences do not make you wait. Ideally, distilled water should be used for the quality operation of the heating system. Of course, it will be more expensive and less convenient than pumping from an absolutely free and accessible river. But there will be no problems with air locks.

Any one of these causes, taken separately or in combination, may result in a blockage in a radiator. As a result, the equipment won’t be able to warm up and provide heat for the space. Thankfully, the solution to the issue is fairly straightforward: a Maevsky tap is a specialized tool used for this purpose.

Causes of an air lock

Let’s start by examining the general location of air intake in a closed radiator, as well as the amount that can have an impact on the system’s overall performance. There could be a number of causes behind this:

• Incorrect procedure of heating supply to the house. It should be done slowly and the air should be vented repeatedly during the process;
• A leak in any part of the heating system. In this case, air gets into it constantly, and the only way out of this situation is repair;
• radiator replacement. After removing the old battery and installing a new one, there is always some air in the system. If it is not deflated before start-up, it will stand as a plug in the way of water. This, by the way, is the most common cause of the problem;
• poor quality of the coolant itself. The air content directly in the water can be excessively high, and over time the whole thing collects into the same plug.

Lack of heating is the most uncomfortable effect of this phenomenon, particularly if it arises in the middle of winter. The heating radiator just quits. However, these are not the only issues.

As an illustration, air negatively impacts the metal used to make batteries. Corrosion is a strong possibility in these circumstances, and it can swiftly damage the machinery.

The variation in temperature is another factor. An air lock causes one part to heat up and the other to cool down. Once more, these distinctions cause its constituent parts to be destroyed.

The bearings on the circulation pump are the third issue. Their operation ensures that there is water nearby. Air also causes more friction, which increases the circulation pump’s risk of malfunctioning quickly.

The aforementioned makes it evident that using air plugs during combat is essential. Using a tap Maevsky to accomplish this is the simplest method.

Causes and signs of the problem

The primary indicator that there is air in the towel dryer is that it simply stops operating when the house’s water is hot. It may be very cold or just a little warm. To understand how this device differs from a typical heating system, let’s first look at its connection scheme:

The diagram makes it evident how the towel dryer is connected.

The towel dryer is part of the DHW circuit, not the heating circuit, which is the first thing that draws attention. Since the towel dryer should always run and the heating is turned off during the summer, this is how it is done in the great majority of homes. The goal is straightforward: to keep the bathroom’s microclimate consistently dry.

It’s crucial! In addition to drying towels and other items that are hung on it, a towel dryer also has to maintain a low humidity level.

If it breaks down, fungus and mold can grow on the walls, which, if left unchecked, can damage the bathroom’s finish and increase the risk of illness. It can also make using the bathroom less comfortable. Furthermore, oxidation of steel in the air causes corrosion in steel towel dryers (and the vast majority of them) when a heat carrier is removed for an extended period of time. This may eventually cause the pipe to depressurize and cause the apartment to flood.

The perfect towel dryer version: big-diameter pipes with a straightforward M-shape that doesn’t obstruct the flow of water in the standpipe

Here are the reasons behind the dryer’s air congestion. Many exist; the following are the most popular ones:

1. Disconnection of the hot water supply during the summer period with its subsequent restarting. Air, got into the system during this process, can accumulate exactly in the towel dryer.
2. Improper dryer connection. To achieve maximum performance and not spoil the life of neighbors, when installing a towel dryer, it is necessary to follow a number of rules. In particular, avoid pipe constrictions, observe gradients and the connection scheme.
3. Incorrect form of the towel dryer itself. This is a sin of Chinese manufacturers, not too much into engineering research. This results in dryers with thin pipes and sharp drops, in which an air lock forms at the first opportunity.

Avoid such "designer models" as they will not circulate water in thin pipes and narrow connection diameters will cause issues for both you and your neighbors on the riser line.

There are many connection schemes, and discussing them all is outside the purview of this article. We only provide an example in the form of an image. If your towel dryer is connected in an unsafe manner, the following factors are probably to blame for it blowing out:

Approved and unapproved connection schemes

Component	Function
Valve	Controls the flow of air and water
Drainage Hole	Allows trapped air to escape, preventing airlocks

It is essential for homeowners to comprehend how the Maevsky tap works if they want to keep their homes’ insulation and heating systems operating efficiently. This straightforward but clever gadget is essential for freeing up trapped air in radiators, which guarantees maximum efficiency and even heating throughout the house.

Understanding how the Maevsky tap works can help homeowners diagnose heating problems more successfully. Trapped air frequently prevents hot water from flowing through radiators, which can lead to uneven heating or even system failure. Users can easily release this trapped air and maximize the efficiency of their heating systems by reestablishing proper circulation with the Maevsky tap.

Moreover, the Maevsky tap’s straightforward design makes it usable by all homeowners, irrespective of their level of technical proficiency. The Maevsky tap is easy to use and requires less maintenance than more intricate heating system components. Because of its accessibility, homeowners are able to maintain their heating systems proactively, which ultimately increases their lifespan and lowers energy costs.

In summary, the Maevsky tap is a prime example of how creative, yet basic, solutions can be effective when it comes to insulation and heating. Its simple operation and substantial effect on heating system efficiency make it a vital tool for homeowners looking to maximize the comfort and energy efficiency of their homes. Homeowners can guarantee constant warmth throughout their properties and reduce energy waste by adding the Maevsky tap into their routine maintenance procedures. This will ultimately help to create a more economical and sustainable living environment.

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