The principle of installation of a shower enclosure with a tray

For any bathroom, installing a shower enclosure with a tray is a useful and fashionable solution. It helps keep water from splattering onto the rest of the bathroom floor in addition to offering a dedicated area for taking a shower. Gaining an understanding of the principle behind installing a shower enclosure with a tray is crucial for a successful and functional setup, regardless of whether you’re building a new bathroom or remodeling an existing one.

Fundamentally, there are a few essential steps in the installation process that guarantee the shower enclosure is safe, waterproof, and correctly fitted into your bathroom. These usually entail setting up the workspace, putting together the equipment and supplies, putting the tray in place, arranging the enclosure, and caulking the edges to stop leaks.

Selecting the ideal shower enclosure and tray for your requirements is essential before beginning the installation process. Think about things like your taste in design, the dimensions and arrangement of your bathroom, and any particular features you need, like built-in shelving or sliding doors. Make sure the enclosure and tray fit together smoothly and are compatible as well.

The installation area needs to be ready once you have chosen the suitable shower enclosure and tray. This include making the necessary clearances, checking that the floor is level and stable, and adjusting as needed to make room for the tray and enclosure. For the installation process to go smoothly and successfully, preparation is essential.

Once the space is ready, you can start putting the tools and supplies needed for the installation together. These could consist of a spirit level, measuring tape, silicone sealant, drill, screws, and any other parts needed to fasten the tray and enclosure in place. Having everything ready before beginning the installation will make things go more quickly and avoid delays.

Step	Description
1	Measure and mark the position for the shower enclosure and tray.
2	Ensure the floor is level where the tray will sit.
3	Install the tray according to manufacturer"s instructions, typically involving fixing it to the floor.
4	Assemble the shower enclosure frame, following the provided guide.
5	Attach the enclosure panels to the frame, securing them firmly.
6	Place the assembled enclosure onto the tray, ensuring it fits snugly.
7	Seal the edges of the enclosure and tray to prevent leaks.
8	Test the functionality and ensure there are no leaks.

Advantages and disadvantages of deep shower trays

Let us begin by discussing the advantages and disadvantages of products like shower cabin deep trays. Why, it would seem, incur extra expenses when purchasing these kinds of goods? Are they better than their less expensive counterparts? There is, of course.

An image of the shower cabin that would be ideal to install in the bathroom The bathhouse’s shower cabin

First off, having a deep tray helps to heat the shower cabin’s interior more thoroughly. The majority of materials used to make shower trays have good thermal conductivity; with rare exceptions, they heat up quickly and hold onto the heat released by water for extended periods of time. As a result, the cabin with the deep tray will be as warm as possible and comfortable overall.

Second, a deep tray—albeit a tiny one—can be modified for use in a bathtub. All that needs to be done is pour water into the tray and close the drain. Of course, lying in a container that is only one square meter in size will not allow for comfortable relaxation, but it will be possible to enjoy a comfortable period of time sitting down. Additionally, if your cabin has a deep tray, you don’t need to purchase a baby bathtub—this is a benefit for families with young children.

Water procedures in a deep tray shower cabin A deep tray is the ideal substitute for a tiny bathtub.

Furthermore, there are drawbacks to deep shower trays. As previously mentioned, if all else is equal, the cost of purchasing such a product will be higher than that of purchasing a design with a more modest depth.

Aside from the extra expenses, it’s important to consider the following drawbacks of this choice:

• high "threshold". To get into the shower, the user will have to constantly step over the high edge of the shower tray. Young and healthy citizens are usually not bothered by this point, but children and people of age may experience a number of inconveniences. The problem is solved by attaching a special step to the tray. Usually these simple devices are sold at the same place where the shower cabins themselves are sold; Step with handrail
• design. The disadvantage is purely subjective. For most users, low shower trays look more stylish and neat than deep containers with high sides. In the rest of the moment remains solely at the discretion of the owner – if he likes the high tray and the presence of such a design, while not spoiling the interior of the room, you can safely buy and install the desired cabin.

The following pages contain details on the current designs and materials used for shower trays and cabin walls, as well as extra features and other significant details.

You can also read the instructions for installing a shower cabin with a deep tray that measures 90 by 90 cm on your own. With the information you’ve obtained, you’ll be able to decide whether or not to hire outside performers and to oversee the accuracy and caliber of their work.

The tray as a necessary element of the shower cabin

The tray is a crucial component of every shower cabin. Its primary function is to gather and dispose of contaminated water via the drainage system. The tray’s installation features are directly influenced by its shape, which can be angular, rectangular, round, or oval.

The tray’s sides can be shallow (flat) or deep, like a bathtub, depending on how high they are.

Because there is no need to step over a high obstacle when using the cabin, the low height of the edge on flat products greatly increases user comfort. Such trays can’t hold a lot of liquid, though, so an efficient water drainage system is necessary.

Tray for bathtub. This tray is sufficiently deep, in contrast to the previous model, so you won’t have to worry about how quickly water drains. Certain models are intended to serve as compact bathtubs.

Deep bathtub holder. You can sit down if you’d like, and a child or someone of a smaller stature can even take a full bath.

When purchasing a shower stall, the tray of the item should be your first priority because it is subject to strict specifications. You should not be as concerned with the number of functions or appearance of the product. A good tray should be strong enough to support a large weight and should not break, sag, or distort when the user’s weight is at its maximum.

Shower cabin trays come in a variety of materials: pricey and inexpensive, high-quality and not so much.

Take ceramics, for instance. a well-known substance that’s used to make toilet bowls. The earthenware tray is very hygienic, very easy to clean, and very durable.

Faience’s strong "spikiness" is a drawback because it can cause surface damage even from falls, such as breaking a glass cup.

Artificial stone is an elegant, hygienic, and dependable material that comes with a high price tag. However, shower cabin enameled trays are inexpensive and long-lasting. The only drawbacks to be mentioned are the enamel’s short lifespan (which can be readily restored or replaced with acrylic) and the sound of water dripping onto the tray’s metal surface.

Acrylic trays are the most widely used. The surface of acrylic warms up instantly, does not darken with time, and does not absorb any dirt.

The fact that scratches on acrylic are completely undetectable is significant because, particularly when assembling the shower cabin by hand for the first time, trays are prone to scratches.

Because an additional frame needs to be installed, installing acrylic trays can be inconvenient. Because of this, an aluminum structure with adjustment screws is used, enabling you to adjust the tray to the appropriate height.

The subtleties of self-installation of the shower enclosure

Shower sashes come in matte and transparent varieties, with different operating mechanisms.

The installation of the shower enclosure must come first on the list of things to build. It must also be appropriately prepared. Achieve a perfect plane with the level. Determine what will be at the bottom of the swimming area for yourself. Usually, it’s a pre-made pallet with strong legs, but its frame can be flimsy, so add more rigidity by building a brick substrate, and cover the bottom with a rubber matting to prevent scratches.

Next, if the sewerage was not laid beforehand, make sure to consider it. If the bottom is shallow, a little podium with a gap for the placement of a trap or corrugated pipe is constructed. Once all requirements are satisfied, a unique rubber gasket allows the corner’s drain tube to be lowered into the sewage system. The bottom is sealed and fastened at the wall’s intersection, preventing the growth of mold and moisture.

Subsequently, the aluminum frame is put in place, and their siliconization of the base and walls is improved. once every fastener has been examined. If self-tapping screws are inserted into dowels and holes are pre-drilled in the aluminum strips, the installation can be fastened to the tiled surface.

Putting the shower tray in place

As a homemade shower cabin corner typically lacks a roof, start installing the doors right away. Take great care when handling them to avoid scratching or damaging them. After applying sealants to the panel edges, we install rollers on the frame, which will allow the sashes to move. The wheels are adjusted as needed to guarantee comfort when moving.

Take note, owner! After completing all connection work, make sure to lubricate trouble spots with silicone to prevent corrosion.

The installation of door handles and covering any spaces left by the floor and pallet, if any, complete the pallet-based corner arrangement. You can then apply a drawing if you have purchased transparent sashes.

How to install a shower corner

1. Get the assembly process started. Select the location for the tray installation in advance and make use of a level. Make the necessary adjustments and alignments. There are nuts securing the screw feet. The primary responsibility is to level the tray against the nearby wall.

The fan pipe is connected to the corrugated pipe that should come out of the trap. The connections at the tray’s bottom function as robustly as they can. The construction needs to be tested after the tray is in place and the drain is connected. To test it, fill the tray halfway with water, then watch how it drains out. In case a leak is found, extra security is applied to the connections to stop leaks.

2. The next step is fixing the walls of the shower room. The guide at the bottom is placed on the tray and strengthened with moisture-resistant quality sealant. On the edges vertically installed posts from the guide from below. They need to be attached to the walls. Set the posts strictly vertically according to the level. After that it is necessary to mark holes for drilling. Try to work with the tile tool very carefully. Insert plastic dowels into the obtained holes. On the side of the frame adjacent to the wall, it is recommended to apply silicone to prevent water from getting between the wall and the frame in the future. After that, attach the post according to the markings and tighten the self-tapping screws.

3. Place the sheets into the vertical posts, then use self-tapping screws to secure them. The bottom rail is attached to the wall after being sealed at the joint. After installing every fence sheet, move on to assembling the upper guide. Self-tapping screws are used for the same method of fixing as on the underside.

4. The next task is to hinge the shower enclosures’ glass doors. Fused glass is a delicate material, so exercise extreme caution when handling it. Fit specialized rollers to every corner door in the guides.

The door needs to be adjusted, but it will eventually fall into place. For the sash to keep water from leaking through it, it must achieve the proper maximum mating in its closed condition. The door is positioned uniformly. There are no more spaces at the top or bottom. The door must be opened or closed without using any force. It should move easily and smoothly. The hardware must be fastened to the door once it is installed.

5. Applying adhesive protection to the joints is the last step. The sealant’s quality will determine how well the shower enclosures function in the long run. The affected area is cleaned before the composition is applied. Wait a while for the glue to completely dry after applying it. Next, a shower is used to help determine the location of the joints. It indicates that the work is done correctly if there is no water on the surface. If drips show up on the trouble spots, the areas are dried out and the sealing is redone.

How to pick a tray-equipped shower corner: components, placement, and installation 5 (100%) Two votes

Shower cabin walls

The lower door guide, which is shaped like a semicircle, needs to be placed on the pallet next.

The lower guide needs to be adhered to the shower tray using moisture-resistant sealant.

Vertical posts that will support the glass wall are applied from the bottom rail on each side to the wall. Holes are marked and the posts are firmly positioned vertically using a level.

Drill the designated holes in the tile, then insert plastic dowels into the holes.

When the posts are placed next to the wall, a moisture-resistant sealant is applied to them, and self-tapping screws are used to secure them in place.

The self-tapping screws are used to secure the glass walls of the cabin to the installed posts once they are in place. Sealant is applied at the joint where the self-tapping screws holding the lower door guide to the wall are used. The sliding door upper guide is installed at the top after both walls are constructed and linked to the lower door guide. Self-tapping screws are used to fasten the upper rail in the same manner as the lower rail.

Shower tray with your own hands with

Without a shower tray at all, you can outfit the shower base; alternatively, you can DIY one instead of purchasing one from the store. You are not constrained by the size of the constructed shower, but the labor intensity of such work is significantly higher. If you are unsure of where to begin the apartment repair, pick the bathroom safely. Those who have successfully adapted to the sanitary room layout, the rooms with attics, and the hallways are undoubtedly not scared of it.

Shower tray with your own hands – step-by-step scheme

Step 1: Waterproofing and sewerage

The spot where the makeshift cabin will be placed needs to be waterproofed up to a depth of roughly 30 cm. Sealant, fiber rubber, or other compositions—the selection is extensive—are utilized for this purpose. Drainage is made easier by routing the sewage pipe to the very center of the homemade tray. Even before installation, every component of the sewer needs to be properly glued and inspected for leaks. The outlet sewer spigot should be 12 to 15 cm above the floor’s base. Remember to carefully close the spigot to prevent the entry of foreign objects or construction debris.

Step 2: Lay out the barrier

Having installed the shower tray with your own hands, lay a barrier of bricks around its perimeter. The barrier line should correspond to the walls of the future cabin. The height of the brick perimeter – at least 5 cm more than the level of the spigot of the drainage sewerage system. Sharp brick corners are unacceptable, so you"ll have to work with mortar and carefully smooth them out. The mortar is prepared moisture-resistant and durable, it can be mixed in a medium-sized container with a trowel and trowels without the use of shovels – large volumes of grouting are not planned. When mixing the mortar, the ratio of cement and sand is 1:1, with the mandatory addition of liquid glass for water-repellent qualities.

Step 3: Pour the floor

In three steps, the floor beneath the homemade pallet is poured. First, a base pour is created, level from wall to wall, with a thickness of roughly 5-8 cm, using a self-leveling cement mixture. The entire surface is treated with waterproofing Fiberpool, Decoprof, and t.ο after it dries. Two layers of application are possible.

A mortar consisting of grout and tile adhesive is combined once the waterproofing layer has dried. Applying it in concentric circles causes the level to progressively rise above the drain hole. It’s a laborious task. The radius of curvature must remain constant; otherwise, the rough transition beneath the finish cannot be concealed. Complete grouting is required to remove any imperfections and small steps from the grouted surface.

Step 4: Finishing

Mosaics work better for finishing cement floors that slope. Tiny mosaic pieces can conceal imperfections and have a long-lasting beautiful appearance. Specifically designed glass mosaics for bathtubs are non-slip and maintain their color throughout usage. Of course, installing a mosaic is far more challenging than installing tiles on the porch, but nobody ever said that fixing a shower tray that is entirely handcrafted would be simple.

The custom shower tray is prepared for a high-end shower enclosure. Yes, I almost forgot to mention to replace the plastic drain with a brass or steel one before installing the shower tray! Even though the manufacturer claims that the plastic is extraordinarily strong and comes in a set. Because it is common to walk on the tray and crumple from foot to foot, only materials made of brass or steel will hold up against the weight, and they are also simpler to clean when necessary.

Stop55.com has a picture of the shower tray installed.

The image illustrates how to install a shower tray. archiproducts.com

Using your hands, grab the shower tray in the picture. etotdom.com

In the picture, you can see how to install a shower tray by hand. stroy-aqua.com

The image shows how to install a shower tray; source: stroy-aqua.com

Sure! Here"s a main thesis for an article on the topic "The principle of installation of a shower enclosure with a tray":"When installing a shower enclosure with a tray, it"s crucial to follow a step-by-step process to ensure proper functionality and durability. Begin by preparing the area, ensuring it"s level and free of any debris. Next, install the tray securely, making sure it"s properly supported and sealed to prevent leaks. Then, assemble the enclosure according to the manufacturer"s instructions, ensuring all components fit snugly together. Finally, seal any gaps or joints to prevent water from seeping out. By following these steps carefully, you can enjoy a functional and leak-free shower enclosure for years to come."

Choosing a shower enclosure with a shower tray

Shower enclosures can be purchased at a number of establishments that stock this kind of merchandise, including large hypermarkets, plumbing supply stores, and various construction supply stores. Shower enclosures come in different shapes, sizes, and materials.

You should choose the material for the shower tray as well as the size and shape of the shower corner when selecting a corner. Whichever bathroom location you decide on, it will be best to plan ahead and consider all of these details to avoid any problems later on.

It is not required to purchase a stall and tray in addition to a shower enclosure. Nearly every sanitary ware store sells shower enclosures in every possible style and design in addition to a variety of trays available separately.

It should be kept in mind that the tray and stall from different manufacturers may not always fit together if you purchase these parts individually. It is therefore advised to purchase these parts from the same retailer and at the same time. Or it’s essential to know the precise specs and measurements of the product’s seats that was previously bought.

What kind of curtains are available

The sliding or hinged cabin curtains are the second most crucial component. Swinging doors take up more room.

They have two leaf counts: one and two.

Sliding shutters have two to six leaves that are secured in position by a rubberized magnetic strip. The shower cabin frame conceals rollers that are used to move the curtains. Good curtains should make very little noise when they open and close.

Shower stall with sliding doors in a corner. There are models with frosted curtains in addition to those with transparent plastic (glass).

Shower cabin curtains are constructed from either premium tempered glass or polystyrene. Products made of polystyrene are lightweight and reasonably priced, but they eventually become opaque and develop streaks. Glass curtains are pricey, superior goods.

Doors with tempered, frosted glass that swing. Safety glass that has been specially treated is used in their construction, and it is stronger than even car glass.

The glass surface is easily cleaned of dirt and water because it doesn’t absorb anything and doesn’t fade with time. Additionally, a classic transparent, tinted, colored, and rough glass stall with curtains is available for purchase.

Advantages of a shower corner

An apparatus like a shower corner offers the following benefits:

1. Compactness. Due to the fact that the shower enclosure is installed in a vertical position, it will not take up a lot of space. Thus, the bathroom can easily accommodate such elements as a washing machine, sink, laundry basket, toilet and other elements without which you can not imagine a bathroom.
2. Affordable price. The price depends on the manufacturer, dimensions, electronic functions that may be inherent in the shower corner, as well as the quality of the material.
3. Easy installation. Installation of the shower is literally done in a few hours. Everything depends on the skills of the craftsman and the availability of tools. Apartment owners who decided to install a shower, but have never done anything like this, can not worry, because almost anyone can cope with such a task.

What to pay attention to when choosing a shower corner

Safety glass is used to create the enclosure’s sheets. They ought to be between 4 and 8 mm thick. There is always a unique anti-dirt layer applied to the surface. This facilitates and speeds up corner cleaning.

You can choose the hinges to suit your taste, regardless of the uniqueness of the glass type, the profile’s color scheme, or their shape. Affordability is a cost-effective choice when shower nooks feature fences composed of unique plastic.

Plastic shower enclosure

Shower corners are made up of a frame with doors, accessories, a siphon, and a tray. A cabin with a deep shower tray or a corner without a profile are for sale. Families with small children are the target audience, as the hygiene room only offers a corner without a bathtub.

Design of shower enclosure

• Most of all high-bottom corners Suitable for the rhythm of life of young people, when it is necessary to bathe a child in a deep shower tray. This is quite safe, and, importantly, is considered an economical option compared to a bathtub. Shower corner with a high tray
• Shower enclosures with low trays are more suitable for the elderly, as climbing over the high sides will be more difficult for them. Shower enclosure with a low tray

The shower will be more convenient and comfortable the larger the tray. It is best to select the tray size based on the largest family member. The tray’s 80×80 cm dimensions are the most ideal.

Installing a low tray shower enclosure outdoors—which lack a ceiling and some walls—with a free entrance or glass made especially for these kinds of bathtubs is an option if your hygiene room is small. They will be far less expensive than cabins. Although installing these corners is not difficult, assembly will take some time.

Outside shower enclosure

You can install a high tray closed shower cabin with a roof and its own walls on all sides in the bathroom if there is room and the finish of the space can be harmed by excessive moisture.

Shower stall closed

Purchase a shower enclosure while keeping in mind the apartment’s current water jet pressure. Shower corners range in price according to the quality of the material used to make the tray.

Door installation

Install magnetic door moldings starting from the handle side. L-shaped moldings with the shelf facing outwards are on the opposite sides.

With the wheels pointing outward, place the rollers on the doors. Attached to the bottom of the doors are rollers with a button (the button needs to be facing up). The top rollers’ adjustment screws need to face downward.

Using the upper rollers, hang the doors. We press the buttons to turn on the lower ones.

Verify the tightness of the fit and how smoothly the doors operate. From any position, the doors shouldn’t be able to open by themselves. The screws on the upper rollers are used to change the adjacentness.

Installation guide

The installation’s primary phases have already been listed.

All that’s left to do is give them a thorough inspection, paying close attention to even the smallest details that matter.

Installation of the tray, connection to the sewerage system

Installing shower corners by hand requires that you begin precisely with installing the tray and connecting it to the sewer pipe. When the tray is raised above the floor and pipes are positioned in the resulting gap, we will examine the best option in terms of labor costs.

The following will be the work’s instructions:

• The tray itself is first tried on, the position of the drain hole is noted;
• Then the sewer corrugation is connected to the sewer pipe, its other end is attached to the siphon using a coupling nut;
• After that, the trap is attached to the tray itself, installed in the corner. Check the level of horizontality of the tray and if necessary, its position is adjusted with the help of threaded feet;

The installed siphon is seen in the photo.

Kindly take note! The junction where the tray’s edges meet the walls needs special attention; sealant needs to be applied there thoroughly. If this isn’t done, there will definitely be mold, fungus, and moisture under the tray.

• After that it remains only to fix the panels hiding the gap at the floor.

Rather than using ornamental panels, bricks can be laid out on their sides.

The most frequent issues at this point are related to sealing the shower enclosure. The standard silicone sealant will work for this; avoid searching for a miracle substance; the most important thing to make sure of is the tray’s rigidity; it shouldn’t droop even a millimeter.

This is typically what ends up being the source of the moisture in the area beneath it. Water easily seeps into the resulting gap even if the deflection is only 1-2 mm because the tray’s edge can be easily peeled off from the layer of solidified sealant.

You can always place an ordinary brick under the tray if the factory frame’s rigidity is insufficient (place a piece of rubber on top to prevent scratching the sanitary device).

Verifying the frame’s stiffness

If you’ve tried everything to seal the bathroom shower corner but it still feels musty and moldy, the issue may be with inadequate ventilation. Naturally, you should first assess how tight the joints are.

Wall installation

This phase can be regarded as the last one in resolving the shower enclosure installation dilemma.

The corner’s design has a big impact:

• If the bathroom is tiled, the back wall can be the walls of the bathroom itself. In this case, installation is very simple – it is enough only to fix metal profiles and insert glass or plastic into them;
• but a shower enclosure with a back wall will require a little more effort, you will need to install the rear opaque walls as well.

Kindly take note! Wooden houses can have shower corners installed with a back wall. They can also be positioned somewhat apart from the room’s walls in addition to in the corner.

Shower corner model featuring a rear wall

When installing a shower corner correctly, the steps stay the same. If you want to place the corner up against a wall, you’ll need:

• install metal profiles on the wall and on the floor. Naturally, before installation, the verticality of the location is checked, then simply drill holes and the profile on the dowels is fixed to the wall;

The profiles are fixed, and the pallet is installed.

Kindly take note! Sealant needs to be smeared at the junction of the profile and wall to address the tightness of the shower corner.

The sealant is applied evenly throughout the joints.

• The glass walls are then simply inserted into the profiles. Formally rubber gaskets, should provide sufficient tightness, but it is not superfluous to be insured and additionally lubricate them with silicone. In this case, water will definitely not get into the gap between the glass and the gasket;

This outcome may be caused by joints that are not sufficiently tight.

• It is also advisable to fix the glass sheet on top with a metal lintel to the opposite wall, which will increase the rigidity of the construction. Here the question of how to assemble the shower enclosure can be considered closed.

The process is the same for shower corners that are not next to the bathroom walls, with the exception that the profiles don’t have to be fastened to the wall. Walls are mounted after the frame is easily put together.

Final details

Glass walls and doors for the cabin should be installed after the tray and shower enclosure frame have been put in place and adjusted. Prior to use, the holes that the manufacturer drilled in the glass doors should be filled with guide rollers and holders. The shower corner assembly kit comes with every one of these accessories.

The shower enclosure becomes airtight when the doors are closed thanks to decorative inserts—panels placed on the glass edges of the solid walls and rubber seals placed on the sides of the doors. Rubber seal installation will be made easier if the glass edges are rubbed with a soap solution beforehand. The door leaves’ accuracy and ease of opening are examined.

Once installation is finished, silicone sealant needs to be applied to all joints and seams from the exterior once more. Avoid using silicone to seal the seams inside the shower enclosure as this may cause condensation to form in the remaining spaces caused by temperature variations. The shower enclosure’s seams will eventually develop mold due to the moisture from condensation.

Install the mixer tap and other shower accessories (hooks, shelves, etc.) after the faucet is finished.

Once everything is finished, you can take a shower in your new haven of bliss and allow the silicone to fully dry.

Installing the screen

Mark the brackets with a marker after removing the screen.Using a corner as support, adjust the brackets by 2 mm from the floor marking. The bracket’s lower edge needs to be positioned two centimeters above the ground. pulling the nuts tight.

Install the wedges from below in order to install the screen.Place the holes 5 cm from the floor, in opposition to the markings.Use decorative self-tapping screws to secure the screen to the brackets.

Verify that the ceiling is firmly in contact with the upper arch. Apply sealant to the connection if required, then use a weight or spacer to press it down.

After the silicone dries, we pour the cabin’s joints and make sure the switch and leks work.

If you follow the instructions and are familiar with the fundamentals of plumbing work, installing the shower stall is a fairly easy process. It is best to leave the installation to the pros if you have never dealt with a plumbing connection.

Installation of reinforced water collectors

No matter how the water collection and draining tank in the whirlpool box set is configured, the base must be ready for installation before the structure can be put together.

Leveling the floor and walls in the installation area is one of the preparation tasks. Furthermore, all necessary steps are taken to create an effective waterproofing. The water drainage sewer line is marked and removed.

Preparing the area where the water hydromassage box collection and drainage system is to be installed. This instance, the version with a self-made foundation

Through a corrugated extension and a tee, the drain line is connected to the existing bathroom drainage system or to the point that has been previously prepared and brought out at the installation site.

In the latter instance, it is essential to note the variations in line levels in order to facilitate unhindered water drainage. When assembling the shower tray, the necessary height is set to obtain the required value of the difference. The construction of the drain to the sewer requires the following equipment and supplies:

• corrugated pipe (d=40 -50 mm);
• sanitary trap;
• sealing tape fluoroplastic (FUM);
• construction level;
• locksmith"s tool kit.

The body of the tray has a sanitary trap and a portion of corrugated pipe mounted on it before it is placed in the ready-made location. It is imperative to ensure that the trap is installed precisely and in accordance with the accompanying instructions.

Reliable tightness must be ensured by the placement of the gaskets and the tightening of the fixing rings. It is advised to fill the siphon with a small amount of water, close the corrugation’s outgoing end, and inspect the insulation of the connections. You can safely reassemble the system if there are no leaks found.

Peculiarities of installation of the shower cabin-hydrobox

In enclosed shower cabins and hydroboxes, the wall panel needs to be assembled after the shower tray is installed. All of the "accessories"—nozzles, holders, soap dishes, seats, speakers, lights, etc.—are pre-installed in the mounting holes on it. д. It is challenging to make a mistake because each bottom has a unique shape and size. Sealant should be used to lubricate all "landing holes" because it will reduce drips in the future.

The installation of nozzles requires special consideration. Apart from the actual installation of the sprayers, hose segments need to be connected between them. It is attached to the nozzle spigots and clamped tight. Everything is put together in accordance with the blueprint found in the instructions.

Make extra sure that the clamps are securely fastened and that the nozzle tips are undamaged. Applying sealant to every seating area (under the hoses as well as the nozzle) won’t be unnecessary.

Attaching the shower cabin’s nozzles from the rear

The wall is positioned in a specific groove with attached accessories. Additionally, sealant is used to pre-lubricate the connection point. You can verify the system’s functionality by connecting the hot and cold water.

The cover is put together following the installation of the walls. Typically, there is a lamp and a tropical shower. Sealant can be used during installation to ensure that there is minimal possibility of water seeping in. After attaching the hose to the shower spigot, clamps are used to secure it. Conductors are attached to lamp leads, the connection point is carefully insulated, and heat shrink tubing can be applied in multiple steps.

The wall is where the assembled lid is mounted. Sealant is applied to the joint location once more. Installing the assembled door frame occurs while the sealant is still soft. Depending on the model, the doors can be installed at any time. They may need to be hinged before installation in some circumstances or after. Every joint is sealed.

This video provides a detailed view of the shower cabin-hydrobox assembly. The order of events is obvious, but there are no comments.

We hope that the process of assembling a shower cabin is evident. Though many models and modifications exist, the primary problematic nodes have been attempted to be described. Please let us know if you think we missed anything, and we’ll finish the article.

Installation of a shower enclosure with a tray

Installing the tray is the first step, but since most trays don’t include mounting hardware, you’ll need to make them yourself. The most common tools needed to assemble such a frame are iron corners and 30–40 mm diameter pipes. You will need to cut and weld these parts together. Installing on bricks using cement-sand mortar is an additional method of fixing the pallet. The installed pallet must fit snugly into the base so that it does not sway on it.

Go ahead and install the drainage system. Even before the control installation of the tray to the frame, the trap is installed to the base. The siphon may eventually clog, so it’s important to plan ahead for future repair procedures. You will be able to perform future repairs because you installed a small ventilation window. Verify that the siphon does not leak water after installing it. You must check the drainage system and fill the tray with a few liters of water in order to accomplish this.

Additionally, note that all of the gaps were filled with sealant and that there was good contact between the tiles and the tray.

It’s time to begin mounting the panels. The iron frame of the cabin must first be put together. The bottom rail needs to be fixed next, and sealant can help with this. How are the vertical posts installed? To achieve this, you will need to use a level and a plumb line to determine the precise angle of inclination. Mark the locations where the dowel holes will be drilled using a marker at the attachment points. Make holes in the wall with a drill and a tile-specific drill bit.

Advice: Avoid using the shock function when drilling tiles with a drill or perforator as this may cause the tiles to shatter and fall off the wall.

Before you fix the uprights to the wall surface, well lubricate their inner side with sealant, thanks to this you will achieve a better adhesion. Then, using self-tapping screws, fix the vertical guide post. After all the above operations, you can safely proceed to the installation of the glass. However, when doing this work, be extremely careful, as you can easily injure yourself or damage the glass. The glass must get into all the factory-made mechanisms, only then it can function properly. However, in order for the doors to close normally without coming into contact with other elements of the shower enclosure, they must be adjusted. This procedure is performed according to the enclosed instructions for the corner.

The door hardware and sealing are attached as the final step in the corner assembly process. It is important to make sure that every crack was properly sealed on the inside as well as the outside. Only after the surface has been cleaned and degreased is sealant applied. Both the pallet and the area close to the tile are sealed. One of the most important tasks in installing the shower enclosure is, in fact, caulking the spaces between the tray and the tiles.

Watching this video will also teach you how to install a shower corner:

Installation process

The following sequence of steps is followed when installing a shower tray:

• After unpacking the shower tray and removing the protective film, it should be turned upside down by placing it on the prepared dense cardboard. It will protect the product from accidental scratches.
• To the underside of the acrylic shower tray using self-tapping screws you need to attach a metal frame, on which the entire surface will be supported in the future, because the bottom under the weight is capable of sagging. It should be done in such a way that there is no gap between the frame and the shower tray.
• Long legs – studs are carefully screwed through the holes of the frame in the landing places to the very stop. Use a level to check the flatness of the legs.
• The pallet is turned over and placed on legs. Plastic brackets-supports for fixing the screen of the shower tray are placed under them.
• The horizontality of the installed tray is adjusted. This can be done by changing the height of the legs on which it stands. To set the required level of inclination of the tray, the legs can be made in different lengths. After adjustment, their position is fixed with locking screws.
• The next step is to install the trap. To do this, through the drain hole in the bottom of the tray, connect the upper and lower parts of the siphon. The joint place from top and bottom is sealed with gaskets lubricated with silicone. It is also additionally necessary to treat all the joints of the parts of the siphon. The drain hose connected to the tray is discharged into the sewer drain.
• It is necessary to check the tightness by pouring water into the tray. If leaks are detected, re-treat the joints with sealant.
• At the final stage, the screen is fixed on the pallet with the help of brackets.

The fitting of a shower tray made of ceramic

In contrast to acrylic sanitary ware, the stiff ceramic shower tray is set directly on the floor, with no room underneath. Thus, no assistance is needed. Nevertheless, making the drain pipe accessible during installation can be challenging. The following approaches can be used to solve this issue:

• In the floor under the drain hole cut out a niche in which the siphon will go under the floor.
• To ensure free access to the pipe, cut out a small section of the floor at the edge of the pallet. A removable panel is made from the cut out piece.
• The floor under the shower tray should be covered with adhesive in two layers.
• Having fixed the siphon on the drain hole, the tray should be laid on the glue.
• After the solution dries completely, through a removable panel in the floor, connect the siphon with the drain pipe.
• The place where the tray joins the wall should be treated with sealant.
• When installing a ceramic shower tray in a wooden house, it is better to use roofing felt or polyethylene film to insulate the walls.

Finally, it is important to remember once more that the shower tray installation procedure may vary slightly based on the specific product design. Consequently, it is essential to carefully read the instructions that are attached before assembling the structure.

Instead of conclusion

These installation options are by no means the only ones available. Dozens of mounting techniques exist. Specifically, a lot of them allow for the laying of foam or extruded polystyrene beneath the bottom rather than using bricks. Some place the tray directly on the ground, assuming that the appropriately positioned sewer pipe will descend vertically.

Lastly, a lot of pallets have great legs, meaning that absolutely no foundation is needed. This is the installation method that works the best, and adding a conventional foam sheet to the caliper system doesn’t hurt. If needed, the side edges can be finished with mosaic tiles or any other type of material.

The primary feature is that repair work can be done at any time by removing the tray. Sewer pipes made of polymer do not last forever. They may break occasionally. When you flood your neighbors without realizing it, that is a whole other story. because remodeling in the modern era is costly.

Facing with tiles or mosaics

The mounting bases must frequently be hidden, which requires cladding the side surfaces. Using mosaic tiles on a plastic or glass base is one of the easiest ways to complete the task.

Using a toothed trowel, a layer of glue is applied to the substrate. As soon as the tiles are pressed into place, extra adhesive needs to be taken out.

Any uneven surface can be tiled with mosaics’ assistance, and because of their paper base, they are simple to cut with construction scissors or a knife.

All joints need to be sealed, whether you use mosaics or tiles. This is especially reasonable if you choose to construct the pallet yourself.

Tiles or mosaics can be used to fill in the area between the tray and the floor. If you construct the tray yourself, mosaic pieces are adaptable and enable you to quickly and qualitatively cover the tray’s sides or entire surface.

Work with crosses when creating joints. Use a rubber trowel and waterproof grout to grout the joints after tiling. After that, the grout residue is eliminated, and everything is cleaned with a cloth. Once everything has dried, the tiles must be cleaned.

What you will need

You will need a specific set of supplies and equipment to install a shower corner into any design. On the list are:

• electric drill with a set of drills of different diameters;
• screwdrivers, both flat and Phillips;
• hammer and chisel – if there is a need to remove old coatings;
• construction level;
• fasteners, which necessarily include nuts and dowels;
• pipes and fittings for the sewerage system;
• cement and sand for screeding. If desired, you can buy a "liquid floor" mixture;
• Waterproof sealant (silicone sealant is usually used).

The remaining pieces in the set are chosen based on the particular concept: insulating construction: glass doors with frames or curtains with rods; tiles, if you are laying out borders or need to replace wall and floor coverings; a pallet or bricks with mortar.

How to outfit the drain properly

Mounting the side walls

Take off the pallet’s top protective film, but leave the bottom intact for the time being.

Mark the holes by running a marker along the corner.

To check if more padding is required, move the pallet with the partition up against the wall and try on the center panel. The joint where the side wall and center panel meet should be sealed with silicone. Secure them with self-tapping screws measuring 10 mm.

Putting on the stationary, clear partition wall. The bottom of the metal profile should have the oblique cut.

Install the partition and silicone the profile if everything fits. Orient the upper border towards the wall. From the upper outer side of the profile, drill a hole with a diameter of 3 mm. Use self-tapping screws to secure the partition to the wall. In practice, it looks like this.

Put the top and bottom profiles in place. The rounded sections face one another, with the upper profile being wider than the lower one. Silicone is applied beneath the bottom one.

Installing a ceramic shower tray

Take note! Any ceramic tray installation needs to be done very carefully. The product is extremely brittle and is prone to breaking or cracking even from minor impacts or heavy objects falling on it. Ceramic models stand out due to their design, which leaves no room for wiggle room and allows them to be installed straight onto the floor covering without the need for additional supports.

This is advantageous in that it prevents any manipulations to reinforce the structure, but it has a drawback in that it makes it difficult to provide access to the drain and other communications.

Ceramic models stand out due to their unique design, which eliminates the need for extra supports and allows them to be installed directly on the floor covering. This is handy since it removes the need for any structural strengthening operations, but it has a drawback in that access to the drain and other communications is difficult to provide.

• marking – using a marker / pencil mark the future location of the drain and draw the boundaries around the perimeter of the structure;
• is equipped with a drain hole (it is important that it was as close to the drain pipe as possible) – the part of the floor where the siphon will stand in the future is carefully cut out with an electric jigsaw;

Via the inspection hatch, the pipe and siphon are connected.

• unobstructed access to sewerage communications is provided – not far from the already existing cutout, another small notch is made in the floor, so that the floor area was outside the boundaries of the structure and it became possible to lay the trap and pipe grid under the floor;
• a small removable viewing panel is made of a piece of flooring cut out with an electric jigsaw, and PVA glue, previously diluted with a small amount of water, is applied in two layers to the location of the tray;
• The siphon is connected to the drain;
• the tray is fixed with the mortar, while maintaining a horizontal position;
• When the mortar is completely dry, the trap is carefully connected to the pipe through the inspection panel;
• all joints are thoroughly sealed with silicone sealant.

Installing the shower enclosure

The following are the phases of product installation:

• Mounting the shower tray;
• Fastening of racks and guides;
• Installing the side walls and hanging the doors.

Installation of a shower tray

Mounting the tray is the first step in assembling the shower corner, and it can be done in one of two ways:

• On the legs;
• Fixing in the floor.

Picture: Installing a shower tray

When installing on legs, the base is positioned in a corner that has been previously prepared, and the legs’ height is then adjusted to match the level. The pre-fitted corrugated pipe is then secured to the trap with a coupling nut after the screw fasteners are tightened with nuts. Subsequently, the siphon is fixed to the tray, which is positioned in the room’s corner. After that, a water gauge is used to determine the tray’s position with respect to the horizontal plane, and any necessary adjustments are made.

To prevent leaks in the future, care should be taken when connecting parts to ensure their reliability. To check for leaks, a small amount of water should be poured down the drain.

It is important to determine whether or not the floor above the unit is dry if the liquid flows through the hole and the joints do not leak. You can proceed with assembly if everything is in its proper place and the connection is sound.

When mounting the pallet in the floor, the base is positioned in a pre-made slit, and the structure is then fixed with a concrete screed. Although it requires more work than other installation options, this one ensures dependability.

The rigidity of the tray requires special attention. For instance, acrylic structures should be reinforced in the lower part with bricks, foam, or foam plexus, as they are more prone to flexibility.

The bottom guide is fitted once the pallet has been mounted and the fixing surface has been sealed with silicone sealant.

Installation of racks and rails

The vertical supports can be fastened once the bottom rail has been fixed and the sealing silicone layer has dried. The bottom rail fixes the vertical posts, which extend upward and parallel to the wall. A construction waterfall is used to determine the position of the fixing holes, which must be specially marked for mounting.

Picture: Setting up the rails and posts

You will need a drill with a ceramic drill bit and a perforator with a concrete drill bit in order to drill the ceramic tile surface. The technology used for installation entails drilling holes in accordance with the initial markings. The hole’s depth ought to be 8 mm. The vertical guides’ uprights are coated with silicone, hammered into the holes with plastic dowels, and fastened to the wall with self-tapping screws.

The same order is followed when attaching the upper guide. Sealant and self-tapping screws are used to attach the elements to the vertical posts and secure them to the ceiling surface.

Fixing the side walls and hinging the doors

Using self-tapping screws, side walls are inserted from the rails into the ready frame. The bottom rail is then joined to the walls, and the joints connecting them are processed.

Picture: Hanging doors and walls

The installation of doors, which may have a glass or plastic base, comes next. It is essential to consider the operating principle of swinging or sliding. It’s important to take safety precautions when working with glass surfaces to avoid breaking the delicate base and hurting yourself. To prevent the glass from breaking, it is essential to avoid shocks, avoid pressing on the concave portion of the glass, and release your grip on the fittings.

The construction’s doors are then hinged after the door rollers are placed into the guide grooves. The doors’ position needs to be adjusted after that. They should move smoothly and tightly against one another, with no spaces between them.

The fittings’ components are fastened at the completion of the installation.

What is the difference between a shower corner and cabins

Shower cabins are widely available in the market today and can be broadly classified as either open or closed. The last kind gets its name because it is a closed model with walls, a floor, and a ceiling on all sides. Actually, it’s just a tiny, independent room used for water procedures.

As was already mentioned, these cabins can offer a variety of fascinating features for massage, unwinding, and other purposes. All things considered, the owners find great comfort in the equipment, particularly those who have a strong preference for water procedures.

Naturally, without minuses, nothing would be possible. The following drawbacks are intrinsic to closed cabins:

• complicated installation procedure, especially in the case of the presence of those very additional functions. In principle, you can buy the equipment already assembled and do not bother with the connection of each element. But it often happens that such a model in the assembled form simply does not pass through the bathroom door. As a rule, the matter still ends with a call to the master, who assembles the cabin directly in the bathroom;
• cost. Sanitary equipment in general is characterized by considerable prices, and when it comes not just to water supply, but also to comfort, it can be quite expensive. And the more functions, the more expensive the model, which is natural. On the other hand, they usually serve for a long time, and bring a lot of pleasure;
• dimensions. The large dimensions mentioned in the first paragraph can be a critical factor when it comes to a typical bathroom in an ordinary apartment building. What to speak of the infamous combined bathrooms in Khrushchevkas, where it is difficult to turn around at all. Such a cabin simply will not fit there.

The shower enclosure will come in handy if any of the aforementioned drawbacks, particularly the final one, are very important to you. It is affordable, simple to install, and—above all—takes up a lot less room than closed models.

Actually, a tray and doors make up the basic set of these appliances. The neighboring walls themselves play the role of side walls. As a result, you have a corner where the shower tray is mounted and the shower equipment is arranged. A door and some panels close off this area.

Naturally, different "tricks" like a tropical shower cannot be placed in a corner with no ceiling. However, work production is far more straightforward. In any case, having such equipment will be comfortable and convenient whether it is in a wooden house or an apartment in the city.

We recommend reading the following instructions for installing a traditional shower corner with a tray with your hands in order to make the installation process simple and error-free. A video that is also attached to the article will help you expand your knowledge even more. Alright, let’s get started.

Room preparation

Examining the room’s floor and wall geometry is the first step in performing a pallet installation by hand. You will need a corner, a plumb line, and a level for this check. If the floor is obviously sloping, ready-made pouring mixtures or mortar are used to level it.

A level and plumb line are used to check the curvature of the walls, and building plaster or moisture-resistant gypsum plasterboard is used for leveling. A specific primer is applied to building structures to stop moisture intrusion. Corner tile works well as a finishing material for the walls and floor of a shower area. When installed correctly, it looks fantastic and effectively prevents moisture from penetrating the supporting structures. Panels made of plastic or aluminum are extremely rarely used as wall finishing materials.

Tiling the walls and flooring in the space designated for the shower cabin

How to choose a shower corner

Shower corners can be constructed from safety glass or plastic; the former is more costly but more dependable, long-lasting, and resistant to mechanical harm.

Shower doors can swing open or close. Rollers on additional profiles pull apart the first ones. There can be up to four sliding door sashes. The shower enclosure’s frame is the most resilient in this instance. Small apartments and shower rooms are better off with sliding doors because they take up almost no space. The primary drawback of these doors is how much more difficult it is to install them.

Sliding doors in the shower nook

They are in the lead thanks to their functionality and significant sliding door sales. Nonetheless, versions with swinging doors and two flaps can be installed in the bathroom if there is adequate room. The variant has a conventional door’s exterior. It has an outward opening.

Hinged doors on a shower enclosure

Folding hammock doors are a practical and reasonably priced option with two or four sashes that open both inward and outward. Compared to built-in rollers in sliding sashes, hinges that are installed on the door are thought to be dependable and long-lasting.

When choosing roller doors, keep these crucial points in mind:

• It is recommended to choose metal rollers – this material is the most reliable. Plastic goods will quickly fall into disrepair, they wear out.
• It is recommended to swing the door a little before buying. Do not buy an unstable door that wobbles. One day it may simply fall out of the cabin.

Shower enclosure sliding door rollers

Frame Lightweight materials are always used to make shower enclosures. Standard aluminum is dependable. Inexpensive models occasionally employ plastic that is painted or chrome-plated. It is natural that the aluminum frame will last longer.

The shower enclosure’s frame

There is a vast variety of choice panes in terms of color to satisfy every taste. You can find glass in the market that is tinted, frosted, patterned, or any other color you want. Tempered glass is feature-rich shower enclosures. It is of the best quality, long-lasting, and color-fast.

Shower enclosure glasses come in a variety of colors.

Nothing bad will occur if the glass breaks as a result of this. It breaks up into tiny, safe balls, so neither you nor your child will be harmed by it. Regarding the plastic, it will eventually develop stains and become foggy.

The majority of manufacturers employ cutting-edge, contemporary technologies and coat the glass shower enclosures with an anti-plastic layer. Water (or lime) residue is essentially never allowed to stick around thanks to this composition; it rolls right into the tray. It is easy to clean glass of dirt.

After outfitting the home with a bathtub, you must purchase shower accessories. Manufacturers provide a variety of shower corners for customers’ enjoyment and convenience. Selecting a high-quality faucet or shower headset—a stand that includes a shower head—is essential.

For shower cabins, reputable brands from Finland, Germany, Italy, and the Czech Republic are thought to be the best. They put together quickly, much like a constructor. With the hope that they will work together, each component is bought separately. Chinese sanitary ware is thought to be the least expensive. Because it is sold all at once, it is convenient. In a few hours, the invited plumber will set up a shower area.

If your cabin is multipurpose, you can use a shower corner for thermotherapy, hydromassage, Turkish baths, radio programming, chromatherapy, and other purposes. These showers have a sleek, contemporary design. The owner’s disposition is impacted by the cabin’s specifications. All of this enjoyment, though, won’t come cheap.

Shower cabin with multiple uses

As was previously mentioned, it is advised to purchase cabins that are at least 80 by 80 cm in size. It is possible to purchase a rounded cabin with smaller parameters, making it an exception. Experts draw attention to this requirement because specific hand and foot movements are made in the shower. It is impossible to turn around in other corners where there is a rectangular (or square) cabin that is smaller than 80 centimeters.

It’s easy to install a shower enclosure with a tray, and it can make a big difference in how functional and beautiful your bathroom looks. You can guarantee a secure and waterproof installation that will offer many years of dependable use by taking the proper procedures.

First and foremost, precise measurement of the area is essential in order to choose the right size shower enclosure and tray. This will guarantee a tight fit within the design of your bathroom and help avoid any problems during installation.

After obtaining the measurements, the space must be ready for installation. This could entail taking out any installed fixtures or tiles and making sure the floor is level and strong enough to hold the enclosure and tray’s weight.

After that, carefully assemble the shower enclosure and tray according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Panels, doors, and seals may need to be attached in accordance with the given diagrams. Make sure everything is securely fastened and aligned by taking your time.

It’s time to install the tray after the enclosure has been put together. Start by setting the tray where you want it and making sure it is level. To confirm and make any necessary adjustments, use a spirit level.

As soon as the tray is in position, fasten it to the floor using the manufacturer’s recommendations. Using screws or adhesive to guarantee a tight fit may be necessary in this situation. To stop leaks, pay special attention to any sealing specifications.

Finally, make sure everything is operating properly by testing the shower tray and enclosure. While running water through the shower, look for any leaks or drainage problems. Make any required changes before finishing the installation.

These instructions will help you install a shower enclosure with a tray in your house, giving your bathroom a chic and useful addition.

Video on the topic

Video instruction on installation of shower enclosure Vincea Garda VSS

Installing a GoodDoor shower enclosure on a homemade shower tray. I will tell and show you in detail.

How to properly assemble a shower enclosure