Stove with a lounger: with your own hands, the principle of work, varieties

When it comes to keeping your home warm and cozy, there are few things as comforting as a stove. What if your stove was capable of more than just providing heat for your home? Picture yourself relaxing by a stove that not only heats your room but also offers a cozy place to sit. That is why the idea of a stove that doubles as a lounger is relevant. This post will examine how to build your own stove using a lounger, go over the basic workings of a stove, and examine the different kinds that are out there.

Although it may seem difficult, building a stove with a lounger is actually fairly doable with the correct instructions and resources. Knowing the fundamental ideas underlying its construction and operation will give you the confidence to take on this do-it-yourself project. A stove with a lounger not only provides useful heating advantages, but it also gives your home’s décor a distinctive touch and combines comfort and functionality.

So what’s the real mechanism of a stove with a lounger? Fundamentally, this clever design integrates a built-in lounging area with the conventional stove functionality. As usual, the stove begins to heat up, filling the room with warmth. In the meantime, the lounger element offers a comfortable area for unwinding, be it with a cup of tea, a book, or just taking in the warmth.

Depending on your tastes and the design of your house, there are a number of options to take into consideration when it comes to stoves with loungers. There is a stove with a lounger to meet every need, ranging from small, space-saving models for smaller rooms to larger, more ornate designs for larger spaces. To improve both form and function, some designs even include extra features like storage spaces or decorative accents.

Stove with a lounger: with your own hands	Creating a stove with a lounger from scratch
The principle of work	How the stove with a lounger functions to provide warmth and comfort
Varieties	Different types and designs of stoves with loungers

The story of the appearance of a bed

Whether it was a cave, hut, or stone house, people have used fire to heat their homes since ancient times. However, the heat produced by burning firewood must always be converted into a comfortable, warm body, and it is best to extend the time that heat is received.

Ultimately, a basic stone fireplace provided warmth, but as soon as the fire went out, the house started to get cold. For this reason, the foci grew larger and larger until they could stir up thermal energy in the furnace and temporarily heat the space.

Baths with heated floors were common in Rome and other Roman cities during the height of the Roman Empire. The office room featured a sizable furnace, with chimneys that extended beneath the floor to produce a comfortable temperature. The same stoves were also used to heat water for bathing.

However, this idea was not used in heating houses; instead, it was restricted to a hearth or a sizable furnace, frequently known as a "black furnace," in which smoke entered the room through an opening in the ceiling and exited through an open door.

The traditional Russian stove that is depicted in numerous fairy tales was the first, albeit not the most efficient, to be replaced by a stove with a stove. For instance, the main character Emel rode along the street on the Russian stove, which was topped by a handy lieutenant, in numerous Slavic fairy tales, which served as the inspiration for the movie "By School of Treaty." The Russian stove itself weighed several tons, and the bed inside could not be removed from the spot where firewood was being burned because it was heated by fire.

Next came the "Dutch" and "Swedes," whose homes were heated by a heating shield with vertical channels rather than a firebox that wasn’t too hot. After this technology was figured out, the furnace masters started working on new projects. One of these was installing beds—flat, hot surfaces that were big enough to lie on—into the stoves.

The development of stoves that stood apart from furnaces and improved human health was not solely due to the influence of Russian stoves.

What is useful?

Spinal pain is frequently caused by blood stagnation and muscle cramps, which are made worse by soft beds and inadequate or inappropriate physical activity.

The sunbed’s robust, hard surface releases tense and cramped muscles, and its temperature range of 35 to 45 degrees promotes blood circulation, which increases the amount of oxygen that reaches the muscles and internal organs. These post-bath procedures are particularly beneficial when the body is at ease and its natural regeneration processes are triggered.

Principle of operation

The basic working principle of this apparatus necessitates a revisit to Roman bath stoves, the chimneys of which were buried beneath the floor. A lieutenant is essentially a chimney that has been rolled into the letter U to heat the smoke that passes through it.

The smoke will heat up inside more strongly the hotter it gets. Afterward, the thermal energy passing through the bricks will stop, and the bed will start to radiate heat.

The thrust is not increased by this addition to the stove; on the contrary, it is significantly reduced. As a result, the chimney’s length must be adequate to allow the smoke to pass through all of the channels; otherwise, some of the combustion products will enter the room and contaminate the air.

The bed is progressively growing from the inside of soot, just like any other chimney.

There are two reasons why this occurs:

• condensate loss;
• incomplete combustion of fuel.

Water vapor enters the room as a result of the oven sucking in air during the furnace. High temperatures cause the solid fuel to undergo a process known as thermal decomposition, which releases pyrolysis gases. This process is explained in further detail here (pyrolysis gas and its use).

After the pyrolysis gases are combined with the air, the carbon and hydrogen in the air react with the oxygen. This process produces:

• release of thermal energy with and without flame;
• water vapor formation;
• The formation of carbon monoxide and carbon dioxide.

All of this mixture enters the lounger channel and continues to undergo oxidation even when movement occurs on chimneys. The cold brick walls and the high temperature difference cause condensate to fall, or water vapor to settle. Condensate also brings with it other gases that combine to form different acids in the mixture with water.

When the channel’s thermal regime is properly chosen, the condensate gradually dries in the furnace, leaving the dissolved material on the walls.

Complete fuel combustion is impossible in any furnace, no matter how good; this is because active oxidation of carbon and hydrogen can only happen in extreme heat and with an abundance of air; however, the more air that flows through the furnace, the more strongly it cools.

However, because air and flue gases cannot be mixed equally beneath the firebox, some of the carbon and hydrogen travel up the chimney instead of taking part in the oxidation process. A portion of the carbon settles on the channel walls as the mixture temperature drops, decreasing the effectiveness of oxidation and causing hydrogen to escape into space.

As a result, the soot bed’s walls accelerate and lose heat efficiency. For this reason, the channel needs to be cleaned periodically, just like any other.

Is it possible to connect a bed to an already existing brick furnace?

Every oven is designed to produce a specific amount of thermal energy, sufficient to offset the heat loss from the building or space. Consider the thermal operating modes of each component in this instance.

Connecting to the furnace of an extra thermal energy consumer will lessen the efficiency of other consumers, such as the chimney channels, caps, or heating panel, depending on the type of stove.

The connection of the bed won’t violate the furnace’s thermal regime if the firebox can sustain the increased laying of coal or firewood and the first, which will cause the most heat-covered channels without destruction to suffer a stronger thermal exposure.

Even in the unlikely event that the bed’s connection does not go against the furnace’s heat regime, there is still a significant issue that makes adding a new heating device problematic.

All of the furnace’s components—the firebox and heating shield being the most important—are built of brick on clay solution; however, because the latter is weak, the structure’s dressing of the rows is what gives the structure its structure.

In other words, bricks are laid so that the next row’s stone overlaps the previous row’s joint. The masonry will be rapidly destroyed by thermal expansion if there is no dressing. And it will start to crack, allowing cold air to enter the chimney from the room and carbon monoxide to enter the space.

Metal insulated channels, which can be connected by a bed and a furnace or heating shield, can help to mitigate this issue to some extent.

However, because of the metal’s extreme temperature expansion and the condensate’s harsh effects, this method is not widely used, and only a very skilled stove master can successfully sting the transition to the bed.

Ultimately, the furnace must be partially disassembled, the channel system must be redone to ensure proper gas flow, and only then can the transition that guarantees row dressing be added.

An alternative connection method involves placing the furnace or shield on top of the bed’s masonry without tying it down. This connection isonly appropriate in situations where the furnace’s two sections’ masonry and gas temperatures are equal, that is The hot canal itself can be strengthened by dressing, but there is no difference in thermal expansion.

How to attach to a cast-iron stove-bourgeois or fireplace?

The fundamentals of the sunbed remain the same regardless of the firebox’s layout and construction: the hot smoke that enters heats the canal’s walls and lid, causing them to store heat that is subsequently gradually released onto the exterior.

Consequently, it makes no difference whether the firebox is made of cast iron or brick; what matters is that the incoming smoke’s temperature is high enough to heat the bed and other heat-consuming objects, such as the chimney. The bourgeoisie and the lounger can be utilized together if the bourgeoisie can generate smoke that is hot enough.

This also applies to the fireplace, but because of the notably greater air flow, the temperature of the smoke emerging from it is much lower than that of the bourgeois, so it is not recommended to connect the heating shield with the sunbathing.

The number of heat consumers depends on the fireplace’s power and capacity to produce smoke at the proper temperature and volume. If the fireplace has a glass door, its operating mode is identical to that of a brick or cast-iron furnace.

Is it possible to adjust the temperature?

This heating device gets thermal energy from sucked gases that travel through the lounger channels and heat it from the inside out. Theoretically, you could alter the amount of fuel or the combustion regime by lowering the temperature or intensity of the gas flow, but as we’ve already demonstrated, doing so will cause condensation and soot to build up inside the canal walls.

Condensation and the formation of soot will still occur even if the flow of smoke gases is split into two sections, one going into the heating shield and the other into the bed. The intensity of the smoke movement is then adjusted by the valve based on the latter.

Consequently, the sunbed’s heat transfer is established during the design phase by adjusting the channel section, achieving the ideal gas speed on them, and determining the required degree of heat failure.

It is impossible to alter the furnace’s overall thermal regime—or just a bed—after the structure has become fully embedded in the brick if the fuel is not reduced. This results in a significant rise in the volume of settling condensate and the rate at which soot fuses.

Configurations

Even though every Lynk operates on the same principle, there are a few primary configurations that vary:

• width;
• height;
• The thickness of the ceiling.

Width

They don’t pick the bed’s width at random; instead, they base it on:

• a method for laying the brick walls (in half a brick or in brick);
• channel widths (optimally half a brick, but sometimes they do more if the sunbeam is connected directly to the firebox or it is impossible to make its desired height);
• The heights of the canal (this parameter is also determined not at random, but based on the optimal section in 1–2 brick, depending on the connection site and the temperature of the gases passing through it).

Because the inner wall is laid out in brick or half a brick, and the external walls and channels are half the width of the brick, most couples consider an average width of 2.5 or 3 bricks (62–75 cm). Less people choose the option with the thin inner wall; these lies are typically used as warm shops.

If the width must be increased, then the inner wall’s size must be increased to one and a half or two bricks. However, since such a wall is hard to warm, its thermal expansion will also vary due to temperature variations, which could result in cracks.

In a broad middle wall, gestures form – tiny holes below through which relatively cold fractions of smoke pass – to lessen the heating speed and temperature differential.

Fifths not only speed up the process of warming the bed’s center wall but also lessen the channel’s overall gas stream resistance. As a result, the furnace will have at least somewhat, if not more, overall traction for a given chimney length. The efficacy of heating the back of the sunbed will diminish if the program’s overall section is larger than the canal’s cross section. This will have an adverse effect on the masonry and make the sunbed less comfortable.

The channels must be made wider while being turned into caps if you need to construct a full-fledged double bed.

Because the channel width in this design is one brick or greater, it is much harder to overlap. As a result, more rows of cover must be added in order to securely bandage them together and place stones inside the castle. Making four channels—two for submission and two for return—is an additional option. It will appear that you invested two letters in each other.

Height

The height of the channel and the necessary section directly affect the bed’s overall height. The most common channel shape is rectangular, with a 12 cm wide shelter and a 4–26 cm high wall. In this scenario, the sunbed’s height is 7–9 rows, or 45–60 cm. Should the overall height of the structure prove to be inadequate, the channel’s dimensions remain unchanged; instead, multiple rows of bricks are placed beneath the sunbed’s base.

OVIK in the bed Channel is made larger in the Kuznetsov furnace family of heating and welding, but it is limited in size by the position of the prick at the bottom of the channel, which causes the channel to resemble a cap.

This design increases the overall height of the structure, which is also not always appropriate, and gives a stronger heating of the upper part of the sunbed while reducing the resistance to gas movement on it.

The thickness of the ceiling

The floor is made in three rows, and in rare instances, four rows, if the sunbeam is directly connected to the firebox, where the chimneys have the highest temperature.

When you overlap two rows thick, the temperature will rise above fifty degrees. This is excessive for a bed, and when the bed is used for its intended purpose—that is, as a warm bed—the temperature may rise above seventy degrees, which raises the risk of fire.

When this module is connected following a heat consumer, like a canal or cap, there are sufficient ceilings in two rows and the surface temperature hardly ever rises above 40 degrees.

Bricks must be laid to form the ceiling, with one-fourth of each stone resting on a side or middle wall. The spaces between the stones must be filled in with additional bricks.

To preserve the sunbed’s aesthetic appeal, free Neatly chopped brick quarters are placed into the spaces between the side walls, creating a level surface and giving the heating device a rectangular shape.

A stove with a lounger is a DIY gem that provides warmth and comfort in the realm of home insulation and heating. This handmade stove works on a basic principle of radiating heat and creating a warm, comfortable place to sit. You can personalize it with a variety of designs, from traditional to modern, to fit your space and style. There are options to suit your needs, whether you favor the efficiency of a pellet burner or the rustic charm of a wood-fired stove. A stove with a lounger is a wonderful addition to any home because of its design and functionality, which blend utility and cozy charm.

Choosing a connection location

Given that the stove can be classified as a conditional heating device with two consumers (the sunbed will be the third consumer) and multiple heat consumers (caps, channel shields, etc. D.), the stove can be conditionally divided into a heat generator (furnace) and multiple heat consumers.

Two guidelines will assist you in selecting the ideal location for your connection:

1. The closer to the furnace, the stronger the heat consumer heats up.
2. The more signs and longer the path from the furnace to the top of the chimney, the less craving, which means the furnace is worse.

The three heat consumers should ideally line up in a straight line from the furnace to the chimney and choose a heat level high enough to raise the smoke’s temperature to over 150 degrees at the output.

All of this results in an apparent contradiction: connecting a sunbed to the firebox is the most practical way to minimize the number of chimney turns, but doing so causes overheating. The best temperature setting for a sunbed is to connect it after the second consumer, but this significantly extends the distance to the chimney.

Consequently, there is no "correct" location for connecting this heating device; instead, it all depends on how it is configured. However, you must thicken the walls and ceilings when connecting a bed as the primary heat consumer. This causes the furnace to run slower, which lowers the surface temperature to a comfortable level.

Furthermore, the sunbed stores more thermal energy due to its increased walls and overlap, keeping it warmer for longer.

The location of the sunbed relative to the fuel

Because the burning area in furnaces with golk fireboxes is above the top of the bed, the smoke gases are compelled to descend first, fill the sunbed channel, and only then ascend into the heating panel.

The operation of this kind of cold heating device in warm weather is challenging and is nearly always accompanied by the release of smoke into the space because such a movement is in opposition to the nature of smoke gases. This issue goes away and the thrust is sufficient to stretch the smoke into the pipe after the chimney and chimney have warmed up.

This issue can be partially resolved in two-colp furnaces, where the sunbeam is connected between the first and second cap. However, even with these types of heaters, smoke can still escape into the room during the warm season if the chimney is insufficient.

Before pinking the furnace to prevent smoke emissions, warm the chimney and the chimneys above the beds to allow for airflow. You should also wait to load large firewood until all of the channels are warm before doing so.

Such a stove canil requires a little more laborious placement of chips of varying thicknesses, but it prevents smoke from entering the room and eliminates the need for frequent ventilation following the firing of the heating device.

Where to get the guesses?

Numerous books on the stove and topical forums are excellent sources for the dashing’s highest quality and tested functionality. However, every order is made with specific requirements and a unique heating or hob configuration.

Use Sketchup—which you can download from the manufacturer’s website—or any other comparable program, like AutoCad, if you are unhappy with any of the final guess’s parameters.

Generally, people who post about any problem pertaining to brick furnaces on forums share the guards they created using Sketchup. This makes it possible for every user to know right away which furnace is being discussed and what specific issues it has.

Videos showing writers laying out furnaces in Sketchup or a comparable program that lets you build and think about complex objects are another source of sketches.

Oresh the stove with a lounger

We would like to draw your attention to a stove guide that was written by the author of this article using their own stove.

Take note! Although the website offers rough models that illustrate the basic idea of operation, the stove actually needs to be designed for particular circumstances.

Forums

Here are links to the most fascinating discussion boards:

1. www.forumhouse.ru.
2. forum.stovemaster.ru.
3. www.Russianam.ru.
4. forum.IXBT.Com.
5. forum.vashdom.ru.
6. www.Stroimdom.Com.UA.

Can I fold the stove with your own hands?

The plan and project of installing a Russian stove with a stove, hob, and bread chamber is no different from the masonry of any other brick heating device, such as a two-captic stove or a Kuznetsov stove with a fireplace, provided you have the proper ordering that is completely consistent with your home.

Make use of a homemade or pre-made sandy-clay mixture to properly fasten stove devices, such as grates and various types of doors.

The following articles provide a more thorough description of the order and photo for laying furnaces, which includes the hob:

1. DIY Kuznetsov bake.
2. Kuznetsov bake for a bathhouse.

Video

See this comprehensive video to learn how to fold a brick-built heating stove with a fireplace and a lounger by hand:

Here’s a guarantee for building a Kolpakova heating stove that includes a bed and a fireplace:

The tile furnace’s masons:

Constructing a stove with a lounger is a return to cozy, traditional heating techniques that provides warmth, not just a do-it-yourself project. You can lower energy costs and create a cozy atmosphere in your home by knowing the principles underlying its operation.

Stoves with loungers come in a variety of styles, each with its own special features and design. You can select the one that best fits your needs and available space, ranging from contemporary versions to the traditional Russian "pechka." The fundamental idea is the same whether you choose a metal or masonry stove: heat is produced when fuel is burned and then radiated into the space.

Efficiency is one of the main benefits of a stove with a lounger. These stoves maintain heat for extended periods of time, providing constant warmth long after the fire has gone out, in contrast to traditional heating systems that depend on forced air. They also have a cozy seating area that is ideal for unwinding or sipping tea on a chilly winter’s day.

However, when building and using a stove with a lounger, it’s imperative to take the appropriate safety precautions. Make sure there is enough ventilation to stop dangerous gases from building up, and keep an eye on the fire to prevent it from getting too hot. Your DIY stove can give your house dependable heating for many years to come with the right upkeep and care.

In summary, a stove with a lounger is a useful addition to any home since it combines charm and functionality. Accepting this age-old heating technique will help you make your space cozy and lessen your impact on the environment. So why not take on this do-it-yourself project and enjoy the delight of curling up by your very own handmade stove?

Video on the topic

Cool stove with fireplaces and lounger. Detailed order.