Having the appropriate heating system is crucial for maintaining a warm and comfortable wooden house. A stove is a common choice that blends charm and efficiency. It not only gives your house warmth, but a rustic charm as well. Installing and using a stove correctly requires an understanding of how it functions within the framework of a wooden house.
Prior to delving into the intricacies of stove installation, it’s critical to understand the fundamentals of heat transfer in wooden houses. Although wood is a natural insulator, it still needs to be properly insulated to stop heat loss. Insufficient insulation allows heat from a stove to escape through floors, ceilings, and walls, which results in inefficiency and increased heating expenses.
The stove in a wooden house operates according to a well-thought-out plan to guarantee peak efficiency. Firstly, the stove’s placement in the house is very important. Its central location facilitates a more uniform heat distribution throughout the living area. Furthermore, being close to external walls can make it easier to install a chimney, which is necessary for safely venting smoke and gases.
A few important factors need to be considered when installing a stove in a wooden house. These consist of the chimney system, the stove itself, and any required safety elements like heat shields and fireproof materials. To lower the risk of fire, the stove is usually placed on a non-combustible surface, like a metal base or a hearth.
Another important consideration when installing a stove in a wooden house is adequate ventilation. Sufficient airflow promotes effective burning while reducing the accumulation of dangerous gases such as carbon monoxide. This is accomplished by carefully planning and positioning vents and flues, which combine with the chimney to safely release exhaust gases outside.
Finally, it should be noted that comprehending the operation of a stove in a wooden home is crucial to establishing a cozy and safe living space. Homeowners can reap the benefits of a stove while lowering energy expenses and their impact on the environment by taking into account elements like insulation, placement, and ventilation.
Component | Description |
Stove | The main heating unit, typically made of cast iron or steel, designed to burn wood or other solid fuels. |
Chimney | A vertical structure attached to the stove, responsible for carrying smoke and combustion gases outside the house. |
Firebox | The compartment within the stove where the fuel is burned, providing heat to the surrounding area. |
Ash Pan | A removable tray located beneath the firebox to collect ash and debris for easy disposal. |
Air Vent | Control mechanism allowing regulation of airflow into the firebox, crucial for efficient combustion. |
- The main types of furnaces
- Choosing a place and type of foundation for a stove
- Features of the design of the furnace
- Which solution is used for masonry?
- The main stages and important features of the laying of the furnace
- Video – masonry of furnaces with your own hands scheme
- How to install a stove in a wood house
- Types of heating in wood houses
- The main advantages of furnace heating
- Advantages and disadvantages
- Thermal calculation of the building
- Features of the layout
- Thermal insulation of the furnace
- Schemes of Swedish furnaces
- DIY brick laying
- Advantages and disadvantages of a brick furnace in the house
- The use of brick furnaces
- Varieties of structures
- Swedish unit
- Colling stove
- Russian stove-lady
- Overall furnace device, drawing
- Preparation for construction
- Necessary materials, selection
- Tool
- Calculation of a simple heating device
- Choosing a place, scheme
- Step-by-step instruction
- Masonry rules in accordance with the order
- How to make a heating unit with your own hands
- Features of the formation of the arch
- Rules and nuances of operation
- Cleaning (in t.h. from soot)
The main types of furnaces
Read the features of the current models of these units before beginning the independent laying of the furnace. Stoves are available:
- Heating. Intended exclusively for heating. Such stoves have an extremely simple design and are laid out as soon as possible and with the least efforts compared to structures of other types;
- Heating-welding. The most popular and demanded option. At the same time, they heat the house and allow you to cook food;
Improved models of heating-welding furnaces are also available; some even have a built-in kitchen slab or an oven.
Do It Yourself Dutch Masonry
Stone stoves are categorized separately. This is a fantastic choice for a contemporary private home. These designs are aesthetically pleasing and provide excellent heating for the space. A well-designed and maintained stove-fireplace can enhance the interior design of a costly private villa as well as a modest country home.
Stoves similar to that exist.
Modern furnace schemes differ from one another not only in terms of function but also in terms of form. Rectangular and square units are typically installed in private homes. However, you can set up a circular stove if you’d like. Select a particular option based on your personal preferences as well as the features of the premises.
The image depicts the most basic brick furnace used for cooking and heating.
Naturally, you can arrange the furnace yourself, and a variety of plans will assist you in getting it done as quickly as possible. When carrying out this kind of work, keep in mind that all furnaces—regardless of their design, function, or other attributes—should adhere to the most recent fire safety regulations.
We’ll get into the specifics of installing a stove in a wooden house in this article. Knowing the fundamentals of stove installation is essential, whether your goal is to effectively heat your home or cozy up your cabin. Everything will be covered, including where to put your stove and making sure it has enough ventilation and safety precautions. You will be well-equipped to enjoy the warmth and comfort of a properly installed stove in your wooden abode while keeping your home safe and cozy if you follow our step-by-step guide and schematic.
Choosing a place and type of foundation for a stove
The oven’s foundation-laying plan
Give careful thought to where the furnace should be placed before beginning to lay it. Placing the unit in the center of the room, for instance, will allow it to produce much more heat, warming the air evenly and from all directions.
The most common scenario involves placing a stove up against a wall, which causes cold air to continuously "walk" across the floor. Thus, you have to decide for yourself in this respect.
Establish in advance where the furnace door installation will take place. Installing this component will make it possible to load fuel into the stove quickly and easily in the future, eliminating the need to carry waste from coal or firewood throughout the entire house. The kitchen or another unimportant room is usually where the furnace door is located.
When all is said and done, the brick stove will weigh a pretty good amount. You must prepare a unique concrete foundation for the device in order for it to last long and be dependable.
Features of the design of the furnace
The design of a traditional brick furnace is rather straightforward. On the other hand, simplicity initially appears to achieve extremely high productivity and efficiency levels.
The fuel and chimney are the two primary components of the brick furnace case. In addition, slabs and/or ovens can be added to burners, and a water heater tank can be installed.
Russian furnace schematic
The furnace unit’s primary component is the fuel. Firewood and other fuel used for heating are loaded into it. The fuel can come in the widest range of sizes. Several crucial considerations should be made when determining appropriate dimensions, such as:
- Type of fuel used. If you drown the stove with wood, make a fuel 50-100 cm high;
- required productive;
- necessary volume.
Refractory bricks are used to outfit the fuel. The walls of the building under consideration must be at least half as thick as the brick.
Another essential component of any heating furnace is the chimney. The purpose of the chimney is to remove various hazardous inclusions that are formed in furnace gases while the furnace is operating.
Guidelines for building a chimney out of brick
When designing the chimney, make an effort to consider every aspect so that there are as few bends and turns as possible. The chimney should ideally be entirely vertical. Any kind of bend will cause the traction to deteriorate and the room’s heating efficiency to drop.
The ash camera is one of the key components of the brick furnace’s construction. This compartment will hold the ash collection. Additionally, the air supply to the fuel inside the unit is guaranteed by the ash. The ash chamber has a door of its own and is outfitted beneath the grate. Typically, the ash is three bricks high.
Which solution is used for masonry?
The quality of the masonry solution directly affects the finished furnace’s dependability and durability. The application of a solution based on sand-clan basis will be used for masonry.
The process of preparing the solution is not difficult. Take the clay, add water to it, and let it soak. After straining the mixture, stir in the "clay milk." Add a certain amount of water at the end to get a somewhat plastic and viscous solution.
Recall that proper pantry preparation directly affects the furnace’s strength and dependability. Follow all instructions precisely, and your stove will efficiently heat your home for many years to come. The heat unit is unlikely to reach its full potential and last for very long, regardless of how much money is saved on materials or how far technology is advanced.
A mixture for laying furnaces
The main stages and important features of the laying of the furnace
It should take three to four weeks from the time the foundation is poured to the beginning of construction. The base will get stronger during this time and be able to support the weight of the brick furnace. The performance under consideration demands the performer to be fully accountable and focused. Any mistakes could have irreversible effects, so plan ahead and give yourself enough time to complete the task.
Artisanal brick oven
There are multiple stages involved in laying a furnace.
Initial phase. Remove the lower portion of the first cap and the ash from the brick. Use the previously thought-out sand-clayanog regarding the solution to raise the masonry.
Phase two. Install the masonry-based ash-free door. Use a galvanized wire to secure the door.
Install the masonry door that is ash-free.
Phase Three. Over the ash camera, install the grate.
Put the grate in place over the ash camera.
Stage four. Install the furnace. Line the interior of this compartment with bricks that are fireproof. Place "on the rib" the bricks. You must use a specific masonry solution at this point. It is prepared as usual, but refractory—that is, Shamotnaya—is used in place of plain clay. Using a steel plate and wire that you are already acquainted with, secure the furnace chamber door.
The fifth phase. Proceed with standard masonry up until the twelfth row. Once you’ve reached this row, redraw the furnace camera and evenly place the burner-equipped tiles. Cast iron is the proper material for this plate. Use the construction level to regulate the styling’s evenness.
The sixth phase. Place the initial cap. It is integrated into the stove’s left edge. A channel for a summer move is equipped at the same time.
Stage seven. Install the stove and arrange the cooking area’s walls. Drive the lower cap’s layout, as mentioned earlier.
Step eight. Put in a valve for the summer channel that was mentioned. The cooking department’s interior corner is where this valve is located.
The ninth phase. Approach the 20th row of seats. Once you’ve reached this row, block the first cap and the cooking department. Make sure you leave the necessary number of holes in the continuous masonry for the cooking outlet, the lifting channel, and the summer stroke. Bricks should be placed on the steel corners to increase the stove’s strength and dependability.
Stage ten. Close swing fireplaces to block the hob portal. It is preferable if the doors have heat-resistant glass inserts. With this solution, you can watch as the fuel burns while taking in the beauty of the flame.
Stage eleven. Install the treatment doors to make soot removal convenient. Select a location for installation that will be most convenient for you to get to.
The twelveth phase. Place the cap’s walls nearly up to the wall opening’s upper edge. Place two brick rows at the top to obstruct the stove. The mineral wool is filled in by the lumen located between the top of the stove and the jumper. This will guarantee more thermal insulation and result in a marginal improvement in heating efficiency.
Stage thirteen. Position the ornamental belt around the upper edge of the apparatus.
Stage Fourteen. Installing the smoke outlet pipe should begin. The chimney is better off made of brick. Compared with asbestos or similar metal pipes, this design will last a lot longer.
All that’s left to do is finish the stove’s exterior if desired and lay out the chimney all the way to the end. The simplest solution is to plaster. If not, concentrate on your personal tastes and a reasonable spending plan.
Consequently, you can lay the stove with your own hands even though it’s not an easy task. It suffices to merely comprehend the technology and adhere to all instructions. Never forget that the best materials should be used for the job. Additionally, you will be able to independently erect a stove that will heat your home for many years without any issues or complaints thanks to stoves that have been tested over many years.
Video – masonry of furnaces with your own hands scheme
How to install a stove in a wood house
Natural material homes gain new admirers because of their superior thermal insulation capabilities. During the summer, heat does not enter the room, and during the winter, heat is naturally retained within the home—provided that a heating system is present. The most popular stove for heating in a wooden home since it fits in best in terms of color and installation simplicity.
If you have to take action because the heating system was not included in the project when building a wooden house, it makes sense to think about a few of the best options.
Types of heating in wood houses
There are a number of heating systems that can be installed in a wooden house that are both time-tested and recent innovations. These include:
- Stove heating;
- Fireplaces;
- Gas boilers and convectors;
- Electric boilers;
- Warm floor;
- Electric heating panels from ceramics;
- Infrared emitters;
- Oil heaters.
Every heating system on the list has advantages and disadvantages; when selecting one, it is important to consider how well it will work in a wooden house. Note right away that selecting gas devices will require you to visit regulatory agencies frequently and adhere to their strict regulations. Due to the significant heat delay caused by the wooden coating, warm floors are less effective. Excessive energy is used by separate heaters that are fed by the mains.
Stove heating has drawbacks as well. Firstly, installing a stove in a prefabricated home can be difficult; the primary goal is to position the furnace so that contact with the house’s wooden floor and walls is avoided. About the optimal way to put it into practice, which will be covered below.
The main advantages of furnace heating
The installation of a Russian furnace is the most advantageous and profitable option for homes situated close to a forest belt. Fuel in the form of fallen trees and dry branches is always available, so the most important thing is to stock up on time.
Furthermore, a heating system like this will most naturally blend in with the interior design of the room. Furthermore, the savings brought on by rising energy costs won’t be unnecessary.
The most popular kind of furnace heating used in the CIS’s open areas is the Russian stove. Since the stove is the primary energy source in a wood-frame home, it is advisable to place it in the middle of the space.
These basic measurements can be used to calculate the furnace’s size: a minimum heat source of 1 m2 is required to heat 35 m2 of the dwelling. Wooden houses usually don’t have more than 70 m2 overall. As a result, the stove’s standard dimensions are roughly 2000 by 1000 mm, and when the blowing system is taken into account, its height is 1.5 meters.
You can increase heat if your home has two floors, is too big, or does not meet stove requirements when using coal as an energy source. Additionally, you can retain the majority of the heat by using the attic insulation. In a wood-frame home, the furnace serves as both a heating system and a cooking appliance, similar to a stove and an oven.
Advantages and disadvantages
Among the evident benefits, one can identify:
- Speed of installation of the entire heating system;
- Low cost and availability of wood and coal;
- A spectacular type of furnace complements the overall village picture in a wooden house.
The primary drawbacks are thought to be:
- Tiring service process – in cold winter, fill the coal into the furnace at least twice a day, with firewood, the number of approaches to it can significantly increase. Eliminating the remnants of combustion in the form of ash also takes away time and effort, it is necessary to do this once a day;
- Only a trained specialist can repair the furnace;
- The difficulty of service – in the summer period it is advisable to clean the chimney, it will not work to do without the involvement of specialists from the outside;
- Heat is not distributed evenly over all rooms, it depends on the thickness and number of interior partitions, as well as on the remoteness of the rooms;
- Heating occurs for quite some time, because to warm up the coarse requires steady burning for an hour.
It’s critical to understand! Your stove won’t be able to maintain the right amount of heat in the summer if your home was built using natural moisture logs or bars. Instead, all of the gaps that formed must be pumped out.
Eliminating potential points of contact between the furnace’s surface and the nearby wooden surfaces of the house presents the biggest installation challenge. It is advised to accomplish this by installing it on a different foundation and building the walls out of brick with strong refractory qualities.
Thermal calculation of the building
You should choose the stove’s location before physically mounting it in the house. Installing it is the best way to ensure that every room’s walls are in contact with one another. When a portion of the furnace is usable for cooking and enters the kitchen, it is regarded as a good option.
The sunbed is in one of the bedrooms, so heat-lovers can set up a spot to sleep on the furnace. However, in a large house, this option is unacceptable because other rooms won’t warm up enough. Installing the stove in the largest room—the living room, for instance—will work best.
Features of the layout
Things to think about when making plans:
- A large furnace requires an independent foundation, in this case its base will not be pushed the floor;
- The hob can stand without a foundation, and be just equipped with a metal tray. This is provided for by SNiP norms, the main condition for the absence of the foundation is the low height of the furnace, up to a meter;
- The distance from the ceiling elements to the chimney should be at least 200 mm, the ideally of the beam of the ceiling located near the pipe, cover with heat -insulating material;
- The height of the chimney pipe overlooking on the roof should not be lower than 50 cm, from the skate, and shift from it to the side of at least one and a half meters.
- It is important to know! Any Russian stove is built on a separate foundation, unlike the small Swedish stoves standing on the pallet installed on the floor.
Thermal insulation of the furnace
The materials that will be used to insulate the stove’s walls, chimney, and individual components should be determined prior to installation. The following situations call for insulation:
- To increase the efficiency – errors in the design of the furnace can be partially eliminated by insulation of the chimney in the attic and the roof, their thermal insulation is made of mineral wool;
- Reducing the level of condensate is the most urgent problem of all types of heating systems. Upon contact with a hot surface of the pipe with cold air, condensate forms on the street, and it has the ability to accumulate, spoiling the chimney, and with a large amount of its number and severe frosts, it can completely break it. Thermal insulation reduces condensation levels.
If there wasn’t enough space between the walls and the furnace during construction, the surface of the stove is insulated with asbestos stoves.
It’s critical to understand! Because of its extreme toxicity, asbestos is not a recommended material for thermal insulation and is not safe for human health.
Thermofog is used, which is glued on a wooden wall across from the furnace, to reflect heat from the walls. Using such foil for thermal insulation makes technical sense.
Schemes of Swedish furnaces
The Swedish version scheme furnace device in a wooden house is distinguished by a high useful action efficiency of 60%. It is split up into various camera segments. The oven functions as both an air chamber and a place where fuel is burned. The second chamber provides heat for the hob, while the third chamber can be utilized for air drying clothes.
They identify the following as the primary benefits of the Swedish heating system:
- To carry out the heating system throughout the house, you can place a coil right in the oven, and through it the water will circulate around the entire perimeter of the house, supplying convectors;
- Gaza convects enter the furnace convector, already cooled to a temperature of 7000C, which means that it is not necessary to make it from refractory bricks;
- It is possible to redistribute heated gases from the convector without heat loss, and then direct them back into it;
- The ability to change the size of the convector and its shape gives additional options for installing a Swedish stove in a finished house made of wood;
- Having opened the oven door, you can direct the stream of hot air for rapid heating, while it practically does not contain carbon monoxide.
Maybe all the details you should consider when selecting a stove heating system are listed here. The primary criterion that you should consider is the size of your home and whether or not you can build an independent foundation for a Russian stove there. If this isn’t feasible, you should think about the Swedish stove designed for a wood-frame home.
DIY brick laying
Advantages and disadvantages of a brick furnace in the house
Let’s investigate why older heating devices are frequently better than their more advanced, modern counterparts. There are various causes:
- The furnace body is an excellent heat accumulator: thanks to this property, a brick furnace has to drown much less often than ordinary steel and even cast -iron. Some varieties hold heat up to 24 hours, while in the furnace of the metal stove, firewood should be tossed every 4-6 hours.
- The ability to accumulate heat makes a brick furnace more economical and less harmful to the environment than its metal "substitutes". The fuel in it burns in optimal mode – with the greatest heat transfer and almost the complete decay of organic molecules into water and carbon dioxide. The excess of heat formed in this case is absorbed by brick masonry and then gradually transmitted to the room.
- The outer surface of the furnace does not heat up to a high temperature.
As a result, the heat radiation this unit produces is softer than that produced by hot steel stoves. Furthermore, the airborne dust is burning out and releasing hazardous volatile substances when it comes into contact with hot metal (this is indicated by an unpleasant odor). They can’t poison you, of course, but they do damage your health.
- The brick furnace (this does not apply to the stone) when heated, emits steam, and when cooling again it absorbs it. This process is called the breath of the furnace. Thanks to him, the relative humidity of heated air always remains at a comfortable level – within 40-60%. When any other heating device not equipped with a humidifier, the relative humidity in the room is reduced, that is, the air becomes dry.
You have to either heat it frequently while applying small amounts of fuel or run it in smell mode because there is nowhere to put too much heat. In the latter scenario, one fuel layer can work for longer periods of time before burning out and producing a lot of carbon monoxide and other environmentally hazardous compounds, such as T. n. heavy hydrocarbon radicals.
It is simple to confirm this: black smoke continuously descends from a steel furnace’s chimney as fuel smolders, whereas visible dark smoke only appears during kindling in a brick furnace. This disadvantage prevents the metal solid-fuel heater from burning for an extended period of time (full-fledged stoves that mimic gas generation, not just gas generator stoves). However, they are highly costly, have a complicated design, and require a power source, which is necessary for a brick furnace to operate.
Which of the aforementioned can be in opposition? The brick stove in the cooled room takes a while to warm up. It is therefore advised that homeowners continue to purchase a second steel convector, which will force-warm the air while the furnace is heating.
It should be mentioned that the brick furnace is a substantial building that ought to be constructed alongside the house. And this should ideally be done by an experienced master, who is still to be found.
The use of brick furnaces
The range of applications for furnaces is unrestricted by their primary uses, which are cooking and heating. Other tasks to solve an aggregate like this are as follows:
- Smoking meat and fish.
- Metallomus (a gum oven).
- Hardening and cementing metal parts (muffle stoves).
- Firing ceramic products.
- Heating blanks in a blacksmith.
- Maintaining the required temperature and humidity regime in the bath.
However, it is not advised to build a brick furnace in homes, greenhouses, or livestock farms because the woman will have to breathe in foul vapors, which will cause damage quickly.
Varieties of structures
The above plan can be changed for different types of furnaces. The most popular choices are cap, Russian, Swedish, and Dutch.
Sequential channel is the name of this scheme. Although the stove’s design is adaptable to any room and its manufacturing is relatively simple, its maximum efficiency is only 40%.
Swedish unit
A highly effective heating-welding furnace variant.
A highly effective heating-welding furnace variant.Its plan is known as chamber. A camera is used as an oven, with hot smoke gases washing over its walls. The entire area, from the floor to the ceiling, is taken up by the channel convector, which is situated behind the stove. There are several benefits to this scheme:
- Efficiency at the level of 60%;
- In the oven on the side, you can install a heat exchanger for heating water, which will be stored in a storage tank on the oven of the furnace;
- Gaza convector enter the relatively cold (they burn out in the chamber part), therefore, for its construction, construction brick and ordinary cement-sand mortar can be used;
- The convector with such a form warms the room to the full height as evenly as possible;
- Near the Swedish furnace you can quickly warm up and dry if you open the oven door.
These kinds of stoves are challenging to make, need the foundation, and very high-quality materials.
Colling stove
Self-regulating scheme: smoke gases only pass through the cap after burning completely.
Over 70% efficiency can be achieved with such a mechanism, but the furnace’s manufacturing process is highly complex due to the high loads in the design. Moreover, it is limited to heating purposes.
Russian stove-lady
Similar to an English fireplace, the Russian stove’s plan is known as the running. There is no convector given for it.
Similar to an English fireplace, the Russian stove’s plan is known as the running. There is no convector given for it. The Russian furnace’s owner succeeds in the following ways:
- Efficiency reaches 80%;
- The structure has an interesting appearance;
- such dishes of our national cuisine become available for cooking that you can’t prepare otherwise in the Russian stove.
If the drawings are followed precisely, the Russian stove can be folded on its own. The structure can be destroyed by the smallest changes.
Overall furnace device, drawing
The furnace’s design is not very complicated.
Building blocks of a brick oven
The firebox, or camera, is located in the brick massif and has a door where the fuel burns (see positions 8 and 9 in the figure). There is a grate (pos. 7) in the bottom portion of it, which is used to hold fuel and allow air to enter the furnace. Another camera, known as an ashrian or blower, is located beneath the grates and is likewise secured with a door (pos. 4 and 6). The furnace receives air from the outside through this door, which also serves to remove any ash that falls into it.
Smoke gases enter Heilo (pos. 11), an incline channel that faces the front wall, through the aperture close to the posterior wall. Heilo finishes with a nozzle that narrows. A P-shaped channel known as a gas convector follows this (pos. 16).
The air traveling through a particular channel inside the furnace is heated by the walls of the gas convector. The air convector is the name given to this channel (pos. 14). At his output (pos. 18), a door has been installed; it is closed during the summer.
The components of the chimney are as follows:
- Certificate door (pos. 12): through it, they clean the smoke exhaust channel;
- Ground valve for tuning the combustion mode (pos. 15);
- Vyushka (pos. 17): It also represents a valve, through which after the kindling, when the entire carbon monoxide has already disappeared, the chimney is blocked in order to hold the heat.
Cutting refers to the thermal insulation around the chimney in the area where the roof and attic meet (pos. 23). The thickness of the walls of the chimney is greater where they overlap. Such a bruise is regarded as cutting and is referred to as a rubble (pos. 21).
The chimney bears another wound from the otter that crossed the roof (pos. 24). It keeps moisture from rain from getting into the space between the roof and the chimney.
- 1 and 2- the foundation with heat and waterproofing;
- 3 – legs or Shansits: for a stove with such elements, less brick is required, in addition, it has an additional heating surface from below;
- 5 – the beginning of a special air channel (stuffy), through which uniform heating of the room in height is achieved;
- 10 – combustion arch;
- 13 – an overlap of the air convector, called a re -flood or pass;
- 20 – blocking the furnace;
- 22 – attic ceiling.
Preparation for construction
Necessary materials, selection
The following types of bricks are used to build furnaces:
- Construction ceramic brick (red). They are laid out the lowest rows – the so -called suboperate part (the diagram is indicated by oblique hatching), as well as that part of the chimney in which temperatures below 80 degrees are observed.
- Coramic brick. Also red, but compared to the construction it has higher quality (brand – M150) and withstands higher temperatures – up to 800 degrees. Outwardly, they can be distinguished in size: the dimensions of the stove – 230x114x40 (65) mm, while in construction – 250x125x65 mm. The stove brick is laid out a fried (combustion) part of the furnace, in the diagram it is indicated by hatching in the cell.
- Shamotic brick. This material is covered from the inside. He withstands temperatures up to 1600 degrees, but this is not limited to this. Shamot -bark brick combines high heat capacity (is a very “capacious” heat accumulator) and equally high thermal conductivity.
Note: You cannot use the front brick in this situation.
Chamotis brick alone cannot be used to lay out the fried portion because of its high thermal conductivity; the oven will overheat and rapidly cool from the intense heat. Consequently, stove bricks must be laid out on the exterior in at least half of a brick.
The stove and the chamotis brick are the same size. It is often advised to judge a product’s quality based on the color’s depth, however this approach is only appropriate for goods whose clay was extracted from a single location. When comparing chamotomed clay from various deposits, color does not always indicate an objective property—dark material could easily pass for light yellow.
Shells and other unnecessary inclusions shouldn’t be visible to the naked eye on the brick’s surface.
A finer-grained structure and the absence of visually discernible pores and extraneous particles are more trustworthy indicators of quality (a high-quality sample is shown on the left in the figure). A good chamotum brick should sound clear and sonorous when tapped, and it should break into big pieces when it falls from a certain height. Poor tapping will produce deafening sounds and shatter into numerous tiny pieces when it falls.
Additionally, the following solutions are employed in the furnace’s construction:
- Cement-sand: those parts of the furnace that consist of ordinary construction bricks are placed on a regular cement-sand solution.
- High quality cement-sand: this solution, consisting of mountain sand and Portland cement of the M400 brand and higher, is used if an irregular furnace firebox is supposed to. The fact is that the dried clay solution with insufficient heating can be nourished by moisture and again mesh. That"s why in areas with a temperature below 200–250 degrees (on the diagram-a slanting bar with filling) instead of clay, a high-quality cement-sand mortar based on mountain sand is used. We emphasize that it should be done in this way only if the furnace during the cold is often idle.
- Clay solution. For this solution, mountain sand is also needed. For him, the absence of organic residues is characteristic, due to which the seams would quickly be painted. But now it is not necessary to buy expensive mountain sand: excellent quality solutions are obtained on the basis of sand from ground ceramic or chamotis brick.
- High -quality clay costs more than sand, so its amount in the solution tends to minimize.
With the use of sand from ground brick, they calculate the minimum amount of this material that is needed by doing the following:
- The clay is soaked during the day, then it is mixed with water until it looks like plasticine or dense dough;
- Having divided the clay into portions, prepare 5 solutions: with the addition of 10% sand, 25, 50, 75 and 100% (in volume);
- After a 4-hour drying, each portion of the solution is rolled into a cylinder 30 cm long and 10-15 mm in diameter. Each cylinder must be wrapped around a blank with a diameter of 50 mm.
We examine the outcome: any task can benefit from a solution without cracks or with tiny cracks in the very surface layer; The solution is deemed appropriate for masonry with a maximum temperature of 300 degrees when the cracks are 1-2 mm deep; at deeper depths, the solution is deemed non-uniform.
Tool
Apart from the typical set of instruments used by mantarers, which consists of:
- trowel;
- hammer hammer;
- cutting for seams;
- shovel for the solution.
Before work begins, one needs to assemble this set of tools.
A racer-carrier is necessary for the liver. It features a 5×5 cm cross section, seams sewn, and markings that indicate the locations of individual rows. Installed at the fourth order’s corners, it will be simple to guarantee the masonry’s verticality and the uniformity of the seam widths between the rows.
Calculation of a simple heating device
Although the furnace calculation method is highly intricate and requires a great deal of experience, there is a suggested and simpler alternative. Kuznetsov, IN. Assuming that the house has adequate insulation outside, he presents a fairly accurate result. The following heat transfer values are accepted for a 1 m 2 area of the furnace’s surface:
- Under normal conditions: 0.5 kW;
- In severe frosts, when the stove is drowned especially intensively (not more than 2 weeks): 0.76 kW.
Consequently, a 2.5 m high stove with 1.5 x 1.5 m plan dimensions and a 17.5 m 2 surface area will generate 8.5 kW of heat in regular mode and 13.3 kW in intensive mode. This performance will be sufficient for an 80–100 m 2 house.
Even though topies are extremely complex, they are no longer necessary. When designing and building a furnace at home, it is preferable to buy a ready-made furnace from a store since it is already built according to all the regulations and will be less expensive.
The following factors need to be considered when selecting a furnace:
- The firebox in size and the location of the fasteners should correspond to the type of brick used.
- For a furnace that is used from time to time, you can purchase a welded furnace made of sheet steel; For constant use, you need to buy only cast cast -iron furnace.
- The depth of the ash shaft (lower narrowing of the furnace) should be a third of the height of the combustion chamber, if most of the time the stove is drowning with carbon or peat, and one fifth – if the main one is wood fuel or pellets.
Depending on the furnace’s power, the section of chimneys that satisfy the standard requirements (direct vertical move, head over grate height: 4 to 12 m) are chosen in accordance with the suggestions listed in SNiP:
- with heat transfer up to 3.5 kW: 140×140 mm;
- from 3.5 to 5.2 kW: 140×200 mm;
- from 5.2 to 7.2 kW: 140×270 mm;
- from 7.2 to 10.5 kW: 200×200 mm;
- from 10.5 to 14 kW: 200×270 mm.
Since the furnace’s power cannot be precisely calculated, there are occasions when the unit’s performance and the approved section of the chimney diverge, causing the furnace to start smoking. In this instance, raising the chimney’s height by 0.25 to 0.5 meters is sufficient.
Although empirical formulas have been developed to calculate the number of bricks, there is a 15% error in their results. Counting the bricks in the order is the only way to manually perform an accurate calculation, and it will only take an hour or so. Using one of the computer programs designed for this purpose to simulate a furnace is a more contemporary option. The system will generate a specification that includes the precise quantity of whole bricks along with their dimensions, shapes, and pr.
Choosing a place, scheme
The layout of the house’s rooms and its overall size determine how the furnace is installed. Here’s a potential design for a modest summer home:
Effective design for a summer home
Such a stove will heat the entire building during the winter, and it can be used to cook comfortably in the summer with an open window.
The oven can be positioned in a large home with permanent residents in the following ways:
This kind of design work is appropriate for a capital house.
This version of the fireplace stove is fitted in the living room and has a cast iron furnace that was purchased, complete with a heat-resistant glass door.
And in an economy class home, a brick furnace can be installed in this manner:
The finest choice for the house in the economy class
You should consider the following factors when deciding where to put the furnace:
- The design, numbering more than 500 bricks, should have its own foundation, which cannot be part of the foundation of the house.
- The chimney should not come into contact with the beams of the attic ceiling and roof rafters. At the same time, it should be borne in mind that in the area of intersection of the attic floor it has a bruise called a rubble.
- The minimum distance from the pipe to the skate of the roof is 1.5 m.
The first rule has some exceptions:
- A hob with a low and wide body equipped with a heating shield can be installed without a foundation if the floor is able to withstand a load of at least 250 kg/ m 2 .
- In a house with a tape sectional foundation, an oven with a volume of up to 1000 bricks can be built at the intersection of the foundations of the internal walls (including T-shaped). At the same time, the minimum distance from the stove foundation to the tapes of the building of the building is 1.2 m.
- It is allowed to erect a small Russian furnace on the basis of a wooden beam with a cross section of 150×150 mm (t. n. Opechee), based on the ground or boot masonry of the foundation of the building.
The foundation must be installed, heat must be laid, and waterproofing must be done. You can if the furnace has a strip foundation built underneath it and has channits installed. A monolithic reinforced concrete slab serves as the foundation for a standard stove (sans Shantsev). The foundation should extend at least 50 mm on each side to accommodate the furnace’s outlines.
The following is the typing order for the insulating "pie":
- On the foundation in 2 or 3 layers, roofing material is laid;
- Basalt cardboard with a thickness of 4-6 mm or the same sheet of asbestos is laid on top;
- Then put a sheet of roofing iron;
- It remains to lay the last layer – saturated with a highly diluted pantry with a basalt cardboard or felt.
Only after the top layer has sunk to the roofing gland can masonry commence.
Prior to beginning the masonry work on the floor in front of the future furnace, a fireproof coating must be constructed. Typically, this consists of a roof iron sheet laid over an asbestos or basalt cardboard lining. The first row of bricks presses against one edge of the sheet, while the remaining edges bend and are nailed to the ground. Such a coating should have a front edge that is at least 300 mm away from the furnace and side edges that extend 150 mm beyond the furnace’s perimeter on each side.
Step-by-step instruction
Masonry rules in accordance with the order
The stove is arranged as per the prescribed order (see rice.).
Stove masonry scheme
Observe these guidelines:
- The seams between the bricks in the vault of the firebox and the sub -heating part can have a width of up to 13 mm, in other cases – 3 mm. Deviations are allowed: to the larger way – to a width of 5 mm, in a smaller – up to 2 mm.
- The ligation of the seams between ceramic and chamotis masonry cannot be done – these materials are very different in thermal expansion. For the same reason, seams in such areas, as well as around metal or concrete elements, give the maximum thickness (5 mm).
- The masonry must be carried out with the ligation of the seams, that is, each seam must overlap the neighboring brick at least a quarter of it (brick) length.
- The layout of each row begins with corner bricks, the position of which is checked by level and plumb. So that the verticality does not have to be checked each time, along the corners of the furnace, strictly vertically, the cords are pulled (for this you need to score nails into the ceiling and in the seams between the bricks) and are subsequently oriented along them.
- Doors and damper are fixed in the masonry by means of knitting wire laid in the seams, or with the help of Klyammers made from a 25×2 mm steel strip. The second option is for the door of the firebox (especially its upper part), oven and frying shutters: here the wire will quickly burn out.
The internal portion of the chimney stays the same, only the exterior size grows in the jet and otter. Brick plates are added to the masonry to gradually increase the thickness of the walls. Plastering is required for the chimney’s interior surface.
How to make a heating unit with your own hands
The subcutaneous portion is where the furnace’s body is constructed.
- In the absence of sufficient experience, the ranks should first be laid out without solution and aligned well, and only then transfer the row to the solution. Also, novice masters are recommended to lay out the suboperate part of the furnace in the formwork.
After constructing the furnace’s body, they start constructing the chimney.
Features of the formation of the arch
Two varieties of arches exist:
- Flat: sets of this type are placed from shaped bricks in the same way, but instead of circle, a flat tray is used. The flat vault has one feature: it should be perfectly symmetrical, otherwise it will sprinkle very soon. Therefore, even stovers with sufficient experience are built by this part of the furnace using purchased shaped bricks and the same pallets;
- semicircular (arched).
The latter are arranged using a template, commonly known as a circle:
- Begin with the installation on the solution of the extreme support blocks – the bloodsters, which are previously cut according to the drawing of the vault, made in full size.
- After the solution dries, the installed circle is installed and the wings of the arch are laid out.
- Castle stones are driven with a log or wooden hammer, after applying a thick layer of solution to the installation site. At the same time, they monitor how the solution is squeezed out of the masonry of the wings: if the masonry was performed without violations, this process will pass evenly throughout the vault.
Creation of an arch that is semicircular
Circles should only be erased once the solution has dried completely.
In the semicircular vault, the angle formed by the axes of adjacent bricks shouldn’t be greater than 17 degrees. The seam between blocks of standard sizes should be 2 mm wide on the inside (as seen from the furnace’s side) and 13 mm wide on the outside.
Rules and nuances of operation
The stove needs to be kept in good working order to be economical. A mere 2 mm fracture in the valve will result in a 10% loss of heat because of the uncontrolled airflow through it.
Additionally, you must correctly drown the stove. 15% to 20% of the heat can fly into the pipe with a blower that is strongly open, and 40% of the heat can fly into the pipe if the furnace door is open while the fuel is burning.
It must be dry firewood that the stove is smothering. They must be harvested beforehand in order to accomplish this. In addition to producing less heat due to their high moisture content, raw firewood causes a significant amount of acid condensate to form in the chimney, severely damaging the brick walls.
The logs must all be the same thickness—roughly 8 to 10 cm—in order to heat up uniformly.
Firewood is arranged in cages or rows with a 10-millimeter space between each one. A minimum of 20 mm should separate the top of the fuel bookmark from the furnace; it is preferable if the firebox is filled to two thirds.
The beam, paper, etc. produce the majority of the fuel’s painting. It is not permitted to use gasoline, acetone, or kerosene.
In order to prevent heat loss through the chimney, you must block the bit after the kind of kind.
During the kindling process, you must navigate the flame’s color to establish traction. The fire should be yellow when it is burning at the ideal rate; if it is white, too much air is being supplied, and a large portion of the heat is being expelled through the chimney. When there is insufficient air, the fuel does not burn all the way through and a lot of hazardous materials are released into the atmosphere, giving the color red.
Cleaning (in t.h. from soot)
Typically, the furnace is cleaned and repaired in the summer, and the chimney needs to be cleaned two or three times during the winter. two to three times. Soot is a great heat insulator, and too much of it will make the oven less efficient.
The ash in front of each firebox needs to be removed from the grate.
Three components of the furnace are in charge of controlling its traction: a bit, a valve, and a blower door. Thus, it is necessary to continuously check on the condition of these devices. Should there be any wear or malfunctions, replacement work needs to be done right away.
Warmth and comfort during the winter months can be ensured in a traditional yet efficient manner in a wooden house by installing a stove. Through adherence to a well-thought-out plan, homeowners can reap the rewards of a comfortable environment without sacrificing security or effectiveness.
Selecting the appropriate stove and being aware of its parts are essential steps in the process. Every component, from the firebox to the chimney, is essential to maintaining adequate ventilation and heat distribution. It’s critical to choose a stove that complements the size and design of the home, taking into account elements like fuel type and heating output.
In order to maximize the stove’s performance and reduce any potential risks, proper installation is essential. For longevity and safety, it is essential to abide by local building codes and the manufacturer’s instructions. Professionals or other experienced people can also offer insightful advice and direction during the installation process.
For both efficiency and safety, the stove and its surroundings must be maintained. Airflow obstructions and creosote buildup can be avoided with routine chimney cleaning and stove component inspections. Retaining heat and lowering energy usage can also be achieved by making sure the house has enough insulation and caulking any gaps or cracks.
In summary, a well-thought-out stove system can provide a workable and long-lasting way to heat a wooden home. Homeowners can create a cozy and welcoming space while reducing their energy usage and environmental effect by choosing the right stove, installing it correctly, and performing routine maintenance.