Shvedka with your own hands

Proper insulation and heating are essential for keeping your house warm and comfortable during the winter. However, what if you could go one step further and produce your own heating remedy? That is why the notion of constructing a "Shvedka" is relevant. This homemade heating device is Swedish in origin and has become very popular due to its ease of use and efficiency. In order to improve the comfort of your home, we’ll examine the idea of Shvedka in this article and show you how to construct one yourself.

What precisely is a Shvedka, then? In essence, it’s a do-it-yourself radiant heating panel that effectively distributes heat throughout a space by using the convection principle. Shvedka is a quiet and energy-efficient alternative to forced air radiators or heaters because it doesn’t require forced air and runs quietly. Furthermore, because it’s handmade, you can alter its dimensions and style to fit your unique requirements and aesthetic tastes.

A primary benefit of constructing a Shvedka is its cost-effectiveness. For a fraction of the price of commercial alternatives, you can make a heating solution that rivals them with just a few simple materials that you can easily find at your local hardware store. The materials required to build a Shvedka, which include plywood, aluminum foil, and electrical components, are reasonably priced, making it an affordable choice for homeowners wishing to upgrade their heating system without going over budget.

The Shvedka’s environmental friendliness is yet another appealing feature. This do-it-yourself tool can help you minimize your carbon footprint by using radiant heat to generate heat instead of traditional heating methods, which can help you use less energy. You can also prioritize sustainability by choosing eco-friendly or recycled components, further minimizing environmental impact, since you have control over the materials used in its construction.

Materials needed	Steps to Build
Wood planks, nails, hammer, saw, insulation material, screws, screwdriver	1. Measure and cut wood planks to desired size for walls and roof. 2. Assemble walls and roof structure. 3. Install insulation material between wall and roof planks. 4. Secure planks with nails and screws. 5. Seal any gaps with insulation material.

In the world of home comfort, ensuring your house stays warm and well-insulated is crucial. From saving money on energy bills to creating a cozy environment, heating and insulation are essential. Proper insulation retains heat during winter and keeps your home cool in the summer, promoting energy efficiency. It also prevents drafts and reduces noise. Meanwhile, effective heating systems, whether traditional or modern, ensure consistent warmth throughout your home. Together, these elements not only enhance comfort but also contribute to sustainability by reducing energy consumption and carbon footprint. So, whether you"re renovating an old house or building from scratch, prioritizing heating and insulation is key to a comfortable and eco-friendly living space.

Swedish stove with three firing modes

Swedish stove featuring three furnace modes: look

Conventional stove-swedka construction variations don’t offer any modes. This is why it can be challenging to melt it, particularly in the winter, as smoke can enter the room while the long chimney is heated. Warming up is quicker if there is at least a "summer" mode. Melt the smelt when the gate valve is closed (summer mode) and open it (winter mode) once the chimney’s working component has warmed up. This period of time (roughly five minutes after the heating point) creates a temperature differential that is adequate for a typical draught, at which point the entire panel can be connected to function.

Three modes are even better than two, even though two is still preferable to one. For autumnal to springtime conditions in the Swedish B stove. The "autumn" mode is one of the three firing modes available on the Grigoriev stove. The configuration of this stove will be shown below.

Materials and spare parts

The sequence diagram for this small Swedish stove with oven has 30 rows (the chimney formation is in rows 31 and 32-1). The furnace described has dimensions of 1140 x 760 mm and 210 cm in height (including the pipe). Without considering the need for pipes, for masonry:

• red full-body kiln brick – 480 pcs;
• ShA-8 – fireproof brick – 129 pcs. is used for laying the firebox;
• oven 280*370*310 mm;
• cast-iron stove two burners 410*710 mm;
• grate – 250*300 mm;
• cast-iron door for loading fuel 210*250 mm;
• blower door – 140*250 mm;
• door to the cleaning hole – 70*130 mm;
• shutters:

• on the chimney, "summer" and "winter" mode – 130*250 mm – 3 pcs;
• "fall" mode – 205*250 mm;

• 1020 mm,
• 730 mm – 2 pcs,
• 500 mm – 2 pcs;
• 320 mm – 2 pcs;
• 250 mm.

A small, multipurpose stove in this section

Swedish stove with three modes: poryadovka and making with your own hands

Fireclay bricks are yellow in the photos, while ceramic bricks are brown. Additionally, there are explicit images (see photo).

Significance of the Swedish stove staging diagram

There are two solid rows in the first. Maintaining the proper geometry is crucial: the diagonals are the same and the angle is precisely 90 degrees. There is dressing between the rows.

The Swedish stove layout’s top two rows

Use one red brick and fourteen plus one-half fireclay bricks to lay the third row. The ash chamber and the area where the oven will be placed are starting to take shape. The vertical channel that approaches the lower hood and its formation are formed. The oven hood and oven cavity are separated by a passage made of bricks that are filed at an angle of roughly 30° to 40°.

The third masonry row

Kindly take note! Cleaning holes are left by the side walls, and brick quarters that are inserted into them extend 100 mm beyond the walls. The ash pan door is installed in the same row.

The ash pan door is overlapped by metal strips in the fourth row.

The fourth row resembles the preceding row. The only distinction is that there is a 180 mm narrower path between the hood and the oven chamber. Two 320 mm long metal strips are installed above the installed ash pan door (the ash pan door is not visible in the picture). The bricks are slightly undercut so that the strips lie in the recesses and are spaced out by an additional 2-3 mm to account for thermal expansion. Skilled stove makers drill through holes to secure these plates to the door frame, ensuring the door stays in place (don’t do this if the molding is cast iron).

Bricks are placed on the strips in the fifth row, covering the ash pan door. The grate is laid in the same row. In order to account for the thermal expansion of cast iron (steel), the bricks underneath it are also hewn, making the "bed" larger overall by 3–4 mm.

Installing the grate is done in the fifth row.

Fireclay bricks are used to lay the masonry entirely in this row and the ones that follow. It should be noted that the 100 mm gap between the oven and the hood is even smaller.

The firebox starts to take shape in the sixth row. At its entrance, two bricks have been partially removed (at a 45° angle). On the diagram, bricks that have been cut are indicated in orange. The oven chamber itself is installed in the same row as the hood, and the passage between them is blocked (it is not shown in the subsequent pictures in order to preserve the brick pattern).

The Svedka stove’s firebox is formed by the sixth row of the sequence.

The furnace’s construction continues in the seventh row, where the door is put in place.

Putting in the fuel loading door

Bricks cover the oven in the next three rows, which run from the eighth to the tenth, continuing the formation of the fuel chamber. Observe that the usage of red bricks is increasing.

Svedka stove’s configuration, with the firebox in place

The installed oven and the firebox door overlap in the tenth row. In this row, the two chambers are joined together without a wall separating them.

Two bricks are positioned in the eleventh row on the left, above the oven, with a small amount of inward protrusion; the "summer" channel will rest on top of them.

A two-burner cast-iron cooking stove is positioned in the eleventh row within the Swede stove.

A bed for the cast iron cooker is cut out of the fireclay bricks in this row. To account for thermal expansion, the bed’s dimensions are at least 5 mm larger than their actual size. There was a minimum of 5 mm gap between the top row and the slab due to the depth of the kerf.

The spaces around the perimeter are filled with asbestos cord. It can be covered with packing cardboard (which will burn out during firing) to keep it from becoming clogged with mortar during laying.

The cast-iron plate is laid, and then a metal corner is placed over its exterior. This is essential to prevent any damage to the bricks while they are being used.

The cooking chamber, which is located above the stove, is formed in the twelfth row. Additionally, when operating in the "summer" mode, a channel is formed to the left of the stove where the smoke will pass. The edge of one of the bricks is cut at an oblique angle to guarantee that the width of the channel is precisely one brick.

Forming the Swedish oven’s cooking chamber

The lower hood’s formation is finished in the thirteenth row, where ceramic bricks are used to cover it. Please take note that there are bricks installed there that have been cut lengthwise to make room for the ones that will form the hood’s vault. One brick of the vertical channel (on the right) has been sawed off at an angle in the fourteenth row. If not, in line with the layout diagram.

The first horizontal channel is formed in rows fifteen and sixteen. To cover the cleaning hole for this channel, a half-brick protrudes to the right in the fifteenth row.

Creation of a chimney channel that is horizontal

Apart from creating the channel, a metal corner is incorporated in the 17th row. and two 730 mm-long strips. They will provide support for the cooking chamber’s vault.

The Swedish stove’s cooking chamber is closed in the seventeenth row.

The vault is covered with ceramic bricks in the eighteenth row, which leaves the "summer" channel exit on the left. The bricks are placed on the supports. The brick at the bottom exit is cut at a 45-degree angle (shown in gray in the diagram).

Setting up the damper in "summer" mode

The masonry in the nineteenth row is set in accordance with the staging. To install a latch on the Swedish stove’s "summer" channel—which has three operating modes—some bricks must be cut.

We begin construction on the drying cabinet’s walls in the twentieth row, which is above the cooking chamber. This is where the buffet’s "autumn" mode of operation gate valve is installed and the second horizontal channel begins to form. Bricks are also cut beneath this vertically positioned slide.

Installing the Swedish stove’s "fall" mode gate valve

The Swedish stove layout’s twenty-first row sets up the "summer" channel for row-to-row overlap. To eliminate steps, the bricks in this row are quartered inward at the front and back of the channel and cut at an oblique angle at the bottom. On the front side, a tiny aperture is provided for the installation of a cleaning door.

This door is simpler to assemble by hand: it consists of a frame that is about 70 mm deep, into which a metal door is fixed. It is installed from the inside using a brick that has been cut to size and placed inside the door on the clay mortar to stop it from overheating.

The cleaning door is installed and the second horizontal duct is formed.

Two sections of the right "summer" channel can be seen in the twenty-second row. The picture illustrates how the separating brick is hemmed from below to cause the bevel of the right flue channel to rise.

Dividing the channel for summer

The "summer" and the second horizontal channels are overlapped by the 23rd row in the following. There is an exit in the horizontal channel to the right, and the bottom outermost brick has a 45° angle cut in it. To install the "winter" mode damper, the bricks on the left side must be cut. The damper is then installed.

The 23rd row of the Swedish stove with three modes. It is not difficult to make with your own hands according to the detailed instructions

The small drying chamber on the left has its walls laid out in the twenty-fourth row. Bricks are cut at a 45° angle, slightly askew, in the vertical channels that are currently in place (shown in orange on the diagram).

Smoke channels forming in the Swedish stove’s upper section

The third horizontal channel and the two vertical ones that already exist are connected in the twenty-fifth row. The cleaning aperture of this channel is obstructed by a brick that protrudes from the wall on the right.

The horizontal channel is still being formed in the 26th row, and the bricks have been sharpened in preparation for the damper installation.

Fitting the flue duct damper in

The brick behind the flap in the twenty-seventh row has a 45° angle cut to it. To support the slab, metal strips are placed on top of the bricks. Place a strip of 1020 mm in the front, two 500 mm strips over the large drying chamber, and a short strip at 250 mm over the small drying chamber.

Getting ready to overlap the drying chambers

The 28th row, which covers nearly all of the ducts, is the next one. In addition, it is bigger than the last one, with bricks sticking out by 3 centimeters on all sides. The bricks are split 45 degrees to the front and rear where the main chimney passes through. The undercut is at the top in the back and at the bottom in the front (orange and gray in the laying scheme).

The bricks in the 29th row are even bigger, extending 3 centimeters on each side. The chimney area has bricks trimmed as well, but it is now 60 mm closer to the back wall.

The slab reverts to its initial dimensions in the thirty-first row. The chimney is moved an additional 60 mm as a result of the undercut bricks used in its installation.

The chimney’s base is designed.

The stove made by hand in Sweden is nearly complete. The chimney is installed next. The scheme of its masonry is shown in the 31st and 32nd rows. Then it is raised to the required height.

With any luck, this staging diagram will enable you to construct your own Swede stove by hand. The small stove is a variation of an even smaller chimney. In the video, it is explained.

Swedish stove: installation procedure with your own hands

To be fair, the oven is regarded as the most important and practical appliance in a home. Consequently, despite the abundance of contemporary heating alternatives, many content owners of rural real estate install this device at home with great pleasure. After a demanding workday, the cozy warmth of your home, the soothing crackling of wood, and the captivating light of the fire all help you unwind and calm your frayed nerves.

When selecting a stove for your home, it’s important to consider unique designs like smorgasbord stoves. The external attractiveness and compactness of this heating device allow you to place it anywhere you choose. Such a furnace is typically mounted against a wall, allowing for the most uniform heat distribution between two nearby rooms. Furthermore, the stove has the ability to heat and cook food simultaneously.

Materials and tools

Make sure that the required materials are available before beginning any work. You’ll require:

• heat-resistant brick, in an amount of 30 pieces;
• red bricks – about 540 pcs.;
• doors – furnace and blower;
• doors for cleaning the shafts – 3 pcs.;
• metal sheet (laid in front of the furnace chamber);
• drying chamber floor sheet;
• oven;
• grate;
• shelf for drying;
• latch;
• two metal strips;
• cast-iron stove for two cooking comforts;
• corner 4,9*4 cm – 5 pieces;
• corner 4,7-4 cm-1 piece.

Swedish stove layout

The Swedish stove with its own hands has a fairly large capacity despite its modest dimensions. As previously stated, it is preferable to place it between two nearby rooms, with the furnace situated in the kitchen and the stove’s opposite wall facing the room. The combined dimensions of this device and the chimney will be 203*88,5*102 cm.

The appliance’s layout and specific design dictate how many materials are used, as well as other factors like their dimensions.

The Swedish furnace, like all furnaces, is set up on a foundation that needs to be bigger than the furnace’s final dimensions.

The foundation is built layer by layer out of concrete poured over crumbled bricks and debris. Waterproofing must be applied on the last layer.

Order of laying the brick row

Rows one and two. A 28-brick base is prepared.

Third line. The furnace chamber, under-blower, and supports meant for the vertical channel are installed first. Furthermore, you need to clean the smoke channel and remove slag from the door. You will now require 19 regular bricks and 0.5 heat-resistant bricks.

Fourth row. establishing connections between the vertical channels.

Fifth row. Bricks enclose all doors and channels, and space must be left for the grate, which will be installed later. The only bricks used to overlap the ash chamber are fireclay ones. 16 regular bricks will be needed for this project. and eight pieces of refractory.

The sixth row. Oven doors are installed and the fuel portion is formed. 13 standard bricks are consumed. three pieces that are fireproof.

Seventh row. The furnace chamber is put in place. 13 regular bricks are needed. four pieces of fireclay.

Eighth row. The first vertical channel’s entrance is closed. Five pieces of refractory bricks and thirteen pieces of regular bricks must be used.

Ninth row. The furnace chamber door is covered. Five red bricks, 13, total. five pieces of fireclay.

Tenth row. Cover the oven. Five plain bricks. 4.5 pieces of refractory.

Eleventh position. The cooking chamber is composed of 16,5 pieces of basic bricks.

Row twelve. 15 bricks used in simple masonry.

Thirteenth row. The same, but with fifteen and five bricks instead.

The fourteenth row. Much like the last one. There are 14,5 bricks in total.

Fifteenth row. Likewise. It will take sixteen bricks.

Sixteenth row. spanning the cooking area. Four pre-made corners and fourteen and a half simple bricks are used.

Seventeenth row. This chamber is fully overlapped using 25.5 pieces of brick.

The eighteenth row. You position a small corner and lay twenty-five bricks.

Rows 19 and 20. There are sixteen bricks used, and there are equipped drying chambers, exhaust, and ventilation.

Brick masonry, 21st row, 16.5 bricks.

Row 22. A prepared metal sheet covers the small drying chamber. sixteen bricks.

Row 23. Both drying chambers are still forming.

24th row. There are connections between the vertical channels. It takes seventeen bricks.

25th row. The vertical channel measuring three meters is linked to the steam hood.

26th row. Large metal strips are placed in a corner to completely enclose the drying chamber. 16.5 basic bricks will be required.

Row 27. The whole kiln is shielded. A 32-brick simple brick is utilized.

28-row. Brickwork is progressively expanded and lengthened. Finished product: 37 bricks.

Row 29. At this point, the masonry’s original dimensions must be restored. Specifically, 10, which is five fewer bricks than the 28th row.

Rows thirty and thirty-one. Five bricks per row are used to form the pipe’s base.

The Swedish oven must be built with close attention to detail, making sure that every surface is sturdy and level. There shouldn’t be any spaces between the joints, nor should there be too much mortar between them. This amount shouldn’t go above 0.3 cm for fireclay bricks and 0.5 cm for ceramic bricks. Half a brick is typically used to make dressing.

Furthermore, it is crucial to keep an eye on the chimney ducts’ cross-sectional index. which should remain constant in value along the whole length of the door.

Smoke in the room can be prevented from normally passing through even the smallest narrowing of flue gases.

It is worthwhile to discuss the Swedish stove’s fire door separately. This is the appliance’s weakest component, or its "Achilles heel." Why? The truth is that elevated temperatures have a detrimental effect on the door’s structure and may cause it to loosen or even fall out. For this reason, using a regular sheet steel door is not advised when constructing a Swedish stove. Installing a cast door is preferable, especially if it has tendrils.

You can utilize a homemade design if you are unable to locate a product with "tendrils." This requires a length of steel wire (0.7 m in diameter and 3 mm thick), fixed in pairs in a horizontal orientation. "Whiskers" are divided into a Latin "V" shape before being bricked up. To increase the lifespan of a stamped door, you must purchase extra reinforcement in the form of steel strips.

Depending on the design, the Swede can serve a variety of other purposes. The appliance is typically integrated into the oven. as well as spaces set aside for drying clothes and storing food. The stove can also be furnished with other essential components and a shelter.

• diverse functionality with compact dimensions;
• many designs that provide the possibility of equipping the device with additional functions;
• high efficiency;
• the functions of the oven can be used separately independently of each other. This is achieved by means of an adjustable damper;
• ease of installation.

One drawback of this type of stove is that it requires precise materials; in other words, you can’t just throw anything together to make it.

It’s important to keep in mind that the metal components of a stove should never come into contact with the brickwork when building one by hand. A minimum 6 mm thick layer of concrete or sand must be created between them. As previously mentioned, the stove is installed in unique protrusions made of brick halves.

Preparing the Swedish oven for operation

It is preferable to complete the furnace’s construction by hand during the warm season because it needs time to dry. If not, you’ll need to use an electric fan to dry it, which will cost extra money. First, two weeks are dedicated to a preliminary drying process. Next comes warm drying (a buffet heated for 12–14 days using a small amount of firewood). Finally, the device must be subjected to hot drying, which requires raising and lowering the temperature multiple times a day.

A picture of a Swedish stove can be found online; it’s a great way to heat a small cottage or village house. Its design makes it simple to integrate with other heating elements, like a fireplace, and it is foldable by anyone using just their hands. The most important things are to have material, desire, and the required tools.

• Author: Andrei Vitalievich Vasiliev

Swedish stove with their own hands: nuances of installation, poryadovka, putting into operation

The 18th century saw the development of this stove in Sweden.

Due to fuel shortages caused by deforestation, the king commissioned the Academy of Sciences to create a stove that would be more efficient than the Dutch oven.

Everything was meticulously calculated, and the Dutch stove model was altered. Let us examine the type of furnace it is, the modifications made to it, and the installation guidelines in detail. This project shows you how to build a Swedish stove by hand.

Heating and cooking stove-schwedka: the principle of operation

Making the most of the first heat is what makes Swedes unique.

It nearly all shoots out into the pipe in duct stoves, heats the vault in Russian stoves, and instantly heats the oven and hob in a Swedish stove.

The stove has vertical ducts behind it.

There is less soot than with a horizontal arrangement, but the bottom of the oven does not get overly warm.

The hub of heat in the smorgasbord is the oven. When you open it, a warm wave that originates from the floor will heat the room in a matter of minutes.

Advantages

The Swedish stove boasts an extremely "adaptable" design that allows it to be customized and customized with functions to suit the owner’s needs and preferences. In addition to heating rooms, the stove can be configured in such a way that:

• to cook food on it,
• drying herbs;
• bake in the oven;
• To dry outerwear, as well as shoes;
• Provide a warm bed;
• additional shelves;
• admire the open flame.

However, this is not all. Swedish cooking range:

• Has a high level of efficiency.
• With good efficiency it has small dimensions.
• Warms up quite quickly.
• The combustion process is regulated (with dampers).
• It can be made with "winter" and "summer" running.

Compared to a Dutch stove constructed of the same materials, a Swedish stove will produce 20% more heat. Additionally, cooking on it is more convenient than on the Russian one because you don’t have to stoop or use a lug.

You can store the food you prepared that evening in the cooking niche above the stove and seal it with a flap. The breakfast will still be warm in the morning, so you can save time heating it up.

Location

The Swede is frequently positioned with its back facing the room and its front facing the kitchen. This configuration makes the stove appear more compact.

Furthermore, the buffet can be:

• Walled;
• angular;
• in the center of the room;
• built into the wall.

The smorgasbord is situated in the middle of the space.

The oven should not be placed close to, on the side, or across from the windows if you want to avoid draft issues.

The buffet’s size is determined by:

• dimensions of the room;
• the height of the hostess;
• preferences and possibilities of the owner.

Let’s take a closer look at the stove-schwedka project, which combines heating and cooking.

Its measurements (without accounting for the pipe):

• Length – 1m.20cm.
• Width – 885cm.
• Height – 2m.30 cm.
• Power = 5.2 kW.
• Can heat a house up to 30 m 2 .

Installation nuances

Basis. It needs to be situated below floor level. The bricks are arranged in two rows with slightly wider joints—no wider than 13 mm. Insulation against heat and hydrostatic pressure. Three layers of basalt cardboard are an excellent option.

Safety from fire. There is a minimum of 37 cm between the chimney and walls composed of combustible materials. What shouldn’t be in this wall is:

• communications;
• electrical wiring;
• gas pipeline;
• plumbing.

You can build a brick wall between the stove and the wall to prevent such an indentation. The masonry on a Swedish stove should stop at 35 cm, not the ceiling. The distance between the firebox doors and the closest wall must be at least 120 cm.

Wall-mounted Swedish stove installation

The fuel container. Fireclay brick is required for its walls.

Slabs. It is preferable to have a tiny space between the slabs and the pipe. so that, in the event that the house unexpectedly experiences shrinkage, there is no pressure on the furnace’s masonry. Insulation is used to seal the resulting opening.

Since no one lives in a dacha during the winter, many owners are afraid to upgrade the cottage with a stove. However, there are frequently issues with home heating during the off-season. Building a brick stove for your dacha yourself is a great way to save costs and achieve maximum comfort.

For instructions on putting together a long-burning stove by hand, go here. drawings and the finer points of construction technology.

A small Bulerian stove works well for heating a rural home. Buleryan Svoimi Rukami is discussed in this article: http://microklimat.pro/opitelnoe-oborudovanie/pechi.html Along with learning about the many variations in its design, you will also find detailed assembly instructions.

Necessary materials

A cooking and heating buffet will require masonry, and an additional one or two bricks in the event of rejection.

1. Red brick (only for the stove itself) 553 pcs.
2. Fireproof brick SHA-8 = 32 pcs.
3. Clay mortar.

• 21 x 25 cm (firebox). It must be cast, with whiskers.
• 14 x 25 cm.
• 14 x 14 cm (for cleaning) = 3 pcs.

• 4,5 x 4,5 x 1m.20 cm. = 1pc.
• 4.5 x 4.5 x 70cm. = 1 piece.
• 4.5 x 4.5 x 90.5 cm. = 5 pcs.

Cabinet for the smorgasbord in the oven

1. Steel strips 5 x 65 cm (thickness 5 mm).) – 2 pcs.
2. Latch 25 x 13 cm.
3. Slide for steam extraction 13 x 13 cm.
4. Stoker grate 20 x 30 cm.
5. Oven 45 x 25 x 29 cm.
6. Plate (cast iron) 41 x 71 cm.
7. Drying chamber flooring sheet 80 x 90,5 cm.
8. Steel plate for small dryer 19 x 34 cm.
9. Sheet in front of the firebox 50 x 70 cm.

Project of heating and cooking stove Swedish oven

Here are some pointers from the stoveman on how to lay a Swedish stove with their own hands before you begin:

1. Before starting work, print out the layout on a printer and, in order not to get confused when laying out the next row, circle or cross out the row on the plan.
2. When laying the foundation, it is very important to check the level of its horizontality. However, with the level periodically need to check all further rows.
3. Each brick is dipped in water for 15 seconds before laying. But the bricks must not be soaked!
4. When starting a new row, lay all its bricks in place without mortar, check the dimensions, adjust, and then lay the row.
5. The bolgarka very evenly cuts bricks of the desired shape, but from this there is a lot of dust, so it is better to prepare all halves and quarters in advance in the open air.

Diagrammatic representation of the Swedish cooking stove and oven

Think about the setup of the brick stove—Sweden built an oven by hand.

• 1 row. Solid (28 red bricks).
• 2 row. Duplicating (if in the previous row all bricks were whole, here there are many halves and ¾).
• 3 row. Marked with bricks: on the left is the ash chamber, on the right is the space under the oven (a quarter of refractory brick is laid here) and in the background are the vertical channels. Install the ash pan door (25 x 14 cm), three cleaning doors (14 x 14). Several bricks are placed on the rib. Red brick – 19 pcs.
• 4th row. The vertical ducts are combined for the time being. The ash chamber is being built up. In the space under the oven is laid half a fireproof brick. 14.5 red bricks in the row.
• 5 row. The doors of all channels and chambers are covered. The ash chamber is lined with refractory bricks (this will be the bottom of the firebox). An opening is left for the grates (a corner is cut along the perimeter of the opening, in which the grate is placed). 16 red + 8 fireclay bricks.
• 6 row. The fuel stove door is installed, the vertical channels are separated. Between the fuel box and the oven is a wall of a quarter of fireproof brick. The oven is being installed. 13 red + 3.5 fireproof ones.
• Row 7. duplicating.
• 8 row. The entrance to the channel behind the oven is blocked with fireproofing. 13 red + 5 fireproof.
• 9 row. Two bricks are laid over the fuel door, one of which is cut askew from the bottom and the other from the top. 13.5 red + 5 refractory.
• 10 row. The oven door is closed off in the same way as in the previous row. The wall between the fuel compartment and the oven is not laid out. In bricks, a corner is selected, for the installation of the slab. A corner (1m 20cm long) is installed on the front of the stove. 15 red, 4.5 refractory.
• 11 row. The cooking chamber is being formed. 16.5 red.
• 12 – 15 rows. duplicating.
• 16 row. Preparation for overlapping the cooking chamber. 70-cm is placed in the front part. corner and three 90.5 cm corners above the chamber. 14,5 red.
• 17 row. The cooking chamber is closed off completely, leaving only a half-brick extraction hole. 25.5 red.
• 18 row. Duplicating. Another corner is installed. 25 red.
• 19 row. Extension: exhaust duct, drying chambers, vertical ducts. 16 red.
• 20, 21 rows. Duplicating.
• 22 row. The smaller drying chamber is bridged with a steel plate 19 x 34 cm. 16 red.
• 23 row. Above the vent hole a place is cut out for the gate valve. Slide 13 x 13 cm. 17 red.
• 24 row. Two vertical ducts behind the oven are combined. 15.5 red.
• 25 row. Combine the steam exhaust duct with the vertical duct behind it. 15.5 red.
• Row 26. All chambers and ducts are extended. 90,5 cm is installed in the front part. corner. Two 65 cm strips are laid over the drying chamber. A corner is cut in the large steel plate (80 x 90.5) to the size of the corner vertical channel. A sheet is laid, covering the entire surface of the oven, including the two channels behind the oven. Leave half a brick gap on all sides uncovered.
• row 27. Solid, covering the entire area except for the vertical channel. On all sides, the brick now "overhangs" the previous rows by 2.5 cm. 32 red.
• 28th row. Another continuous row, the bricks are further "overhanging" on all sides (another 2.5 cm). 37 red.
• 29 row. A solid row, of the original size of the stove. 26.5 red. The body of the stove is complete.
• 30th row. The base of the chimney is being formed. In the bricks a corner is cut out to the size of the chimney latch. A latch is installed. 5 red.
• 31st row and on. Pipe extension.

In addition to being a great fuel option, waste oil can save you money on room heating. Utilized an oil stove by hand. Stove manufacture, operating guidelines, and advantages and disadvantages of use.

Read this article to learn more about heating a room with an induction stove.

Swedish stove with a fireplace

There are two variations of the fireplace-equipped Swedish stove:

1. With separate chimneys, when the fireplace is simply attached to the back of the stove.
2. The chimneys of the stove and fireplace are connected into one chimney flue.

The first option is more practical as it allows you to heat the stove and the fireplace separately or simultaneously. In the second scenario, construction materials are saved during construction, but in the future, the fireplace can only be heated independently from the stove to prevent carbon monoxide from entering the home.

Swedish stove with a fireplace

A person of average height can sleep on the heated bed, which is situated just off the ground and directly connected to the stove.

It is heated by opening a single gate valve.

The stove does not heat up and does not require additional fuel when the latch is closed.

Such a stove does not have an oven.

Drawers for storing linen can be arranged underneath the laying. It’s going to be dry forever.

Commissioning

It is not recommended to begin heating the Swedish stove right away. Raw brick will not be forgiven!

Two weeks of regular drying are required (no special techniques, just let stand). then "hot" drying for two weeks.

• Either make sure that the end of the construction work should take place during a period of good, dry weather.
• Or two weeks to "heat" the room with electric heaters (if it is cold).
• Then the stove is heated with small portions of firewood, so that it is only slightly warmed up. It would be good to continuously, but if not possible, just regularly (for 2 weeks).
• During such heating, crumpled paper (newspaper or wrapping paper) is put through the cleaning doors. When the paper stops damping – you can stop stoking.

Pine and birch wood don’t work well during the "hot" drying stage because they release a lot of heat and soot. Using anthracite or aspen logs is preferable.

The final step is to increase the heat intensity by stoking the stove for three days in the mornings and evenings (first loading a small amount of wood, then adding more and bringing it to the maximum). The stove is now prepared for regular use.

Okay. The Shvedka is appropriate for a tiny home. The Dutch is a better option if the house has multiple rooms or if the room has inconsistent heating. We can state that the Swedish stove is perfect for everyday heating!

Making your own "Shvedka," or homemade Swedish torch, is an effective and environmentally responsible way to heat and light outdoor areas. Repurposing a log into a vertical fire pit allows you to minimize the risks associated with open fires while still enjoying warmth and light. This is a fairly easy do-it-yourself project that can be completed by anyone with only a few basic tools.

The Shvedka’s efficiency in terms of heat output and fuel consumption is one of its main benefits. Because of the vertical design, there is ideal airflow, which encourages a thorough and clean burn. Because of this, you can generate a lot of heat with a small amount of wood, which makes it an affordable heating option for parties outside, camping excursions, or even emergency scenarios.

Apart from its effectiveness, the Shvedka offers a safer substitute for conventional campfires. A vertical log keeps the fire contained and significantly lessens the chance of sparks and embers spreading. This makes it especially appropriate for usage in dry or windy environments where open flames could be dangerous. Moreover, a Shvedka burn that is managed reduces the possibility of unintentional wildfires, making it a sustainable option.

In addition, creating a Shvedka by hand can be a fulfilling and entertaining do-it-yourself project for individuals or groups. Making a homemade Swedish torch is a hands-on project that blends creativity and usefulness, making it a fun activity to do with friends and family or a weekend project to work on alone. Every stage of the process offers a chance to learn and try new things, from choosing the ideal log to becoming an expert fire builder.

In conclusion, building a Shvedka yourself can improve your outdoor experiences by offering effective lighting and heating in a sustainable and safe way. You can reduce the risks associated with open flames while still enjoying the warmth and ambience of a campfire by repurposing a single log into a vertical fire pit. A homemade Swedish torch is sure to become a useful addition to your outdoor gear, whether you’re roasting marshmallows with friends or just spending a peaceful evening outside.

Video on the subject

Shvedka" stove with a laying bed – with your own hands