Secrets of installing a box of plastic panels in the bathroom

Are you sick and weary of battling moisture and mold in your bathroom? Are you trying to find a solution that will help you keep your area hygienic and clean while also improving its appearance? Installing a plastic panel box in your bathroom is the only option. This post will explain the ins and outs of installing a plastic panel box in your bathroom and provide you with a step-by-step tutorial to turn your space into a visually pleasing and moisture-resistant haven.

Plastic panels’ adaptability, toughness, and ease of maintenance have made them extremely popular in recent years. They can successfully shield the moisture from your bathroom walls and stop the growth of mold and mildew when installed correctly. Furthermore, plastic panels are available in an array of hues, designs, and sheens, so you can personalize your bathroom to fit your tastes and aesthetic.

Getting all the tools and supplies needed is crucial before beginning the installation process. Plastic panels, caulking gun, adhesive, screws, saw, level, and measuring tape are required. Make sure you select premium materials to ensure a durable and efficient installation. You can start remodeling your bathroom as soon as you have everything you need.

Preparing the walls is the first step in installing a plastic panel box. To guarantee correct adhesion, remove any existing wall coverings or tiles, and give the surface a thorough cleaning. To obtain a seamless finish, the surface must be even and smooth. Before continuing, use a level to check for any uneven areas and make any necessary adjustments.

After the walls are prepared and ready, the plastic panels need to be measured and cut to fit the available space. Accurately measure the height and breadth of every wall, accounting for any obstructions like pipes or fixtures. To ensure a snug fit, precisely cut the panels to the required size using a saw. Recall to allow for expansion by leaving a tiny space between the panels and the floor.

Step 1	Measure the dimensions of the bathroom wall where you plan to install the plastic panels.
Step 2	Clean the wall thoroughly to remove any dirt, grease, or old adhesive that could affect the panel"s adhesion.
Step 3	Apply a moisture-resistant primer to the wall to create a suitable surface for the panels.
Step 4	Allow the primer to dry completely before proceeding to the next step.
Step 5	Measure and cut the plastic panels to fit the wall dimensions, using a fine-tooth saw or utility knife.
Step 6	Apply adhesive to the back of each panel, following the manufacturer"s instructions.
Step 7	Press the panels firmly onto the wall, starting from one corner and working your way across.
Step 8	Use a level to ensure the panels are straight and evenly aligned.
Step 9	Allow the adhesive to cure according to the manufacturer"s recommendations before finishing.

Advantages of the plastic box

Plasterboard or plastic can be used to construct masking pipes. Though each of these solutions has merits of its own, the plastic box is the most sensible choice. It has numerous, indisputable benefits:

• The possibility of quick disassembly without damaging the material. This property of plastic construction is especially important for pipes connected by fittings and threaded joints, which are not insured against leaks. After a breakage or routine maintenance of the pipes, the box can be easily reassembled.
• No need for further finishing. Plastic panels themselves are already a finishing decorative material, unlike plasterboard, which requires final processing.

• Resistant to deformation and easy to repair. The plastic used to make the panels is strong and flexible, so it is less likely to be damaged than tiles, which can be accidentally broken. Even if one panel is damaged, it can be easily replaced with a new one without damaging the entire structure.
• Moisture resistance. PVC is not afraid of water, does not rot, nothing will happen to the box, even if it is installed close to the bathtub or will get wet due to condensation formed on the pipes.
• Ease of installation. Installation of the box will take only a few hours, does not require the use of expensive or specific tools.
• Affordable price. Plastic panels for bathrooms – one of the most inexpensive finishing materials.
• Roomy and compact. Due to the small thickness of the panels, plastic construction is very roomy and will not take up a lot of extra space in the bathroom, which is especially important for a small room.

The plastic box is incredibly useful because it can be taken apart and put back together as many times as needed.

Preparation for finishing

Sealant is applied to all joints and adjacent areas of the bathroom box to shield the material from the effects of water. To stop mold from growing, silicone with fungicide additives is the best option. Since it will be difficult to access, extra care should be taken when sealing the joints in the box beneath the bathtub.

Preparation of the surface before tiling is limited to treatment with a primer solution. The entire area of the box under the bathtub and along the walls in the open space is covered with a working compound using a brush or roller. Perforated corners are fixed in the inner and outer corners, and then the tiles are glued using specialized compounds. These can be both dry mixtures, which must be diluted with water, and ready-to-use mastics. Sometimes to save consumables, the box under the bathtub is covered with paint instead of tiles. Preparation for this variant of work consists in taping the joints of the individual sheets with serpianka. A leveling layer of putty is applied over the reinforcing tape and recessed fastener heads.

A revision hatch is installed once everything is finished. Standard fastening feet are used to help with its installation. The hatch’s size was adequate for service, and it must match the opening left beneath it in terms of dimensions.

Plasterboard box with tiles and a hatch

Application of decorative overlays for heating pipes

Old, antiquated steel utilities are replaced with clean, modern polypropylene or metal-plastic pipes during major repairs. However, despite their attractive appearance, they can’t always blend in well with the design of a contemporary living room. And here, you can use decorative heating pipe covers to hide them or, on the other hand, to add the missing touches of sophistication and leave them in plain sight.

Although decorative sockets can be made of many materials, wood has the most appealing appearance.

There are numerous variations of these kinds of products available right now. But a lot of home masters end up stopping at the so-called sockets. And this is due to a few factors.

The gap that appears where the floor covering meets the pipe must be filled in before the floor covering is installed. Although it doesn’t seem to interfere, such a gap is not the greatest looking.

If laminate flooring is being used, leave a space up to 10 mm apart. As a result, the area will have sufficient volume to hold the material when it expands when heated. Consequently, it is advised to seal the gap using a specialized tool that can conceal the aesthetic flaw without impairing the floor covering’s ability to function. In this instance, decorative heating pipe rings—also known as rosettes—will be the best and most practical solution. This product is easily installed by slipping it over the pipe, inserting it into the opening, and snapping it in place.

Installing decorative overlays will improve the aesthetics of the area where communications enter the ceiling.

The following are the primary benefits of decorative sockets for heating pipes:

• aesthetic appeal;
• ease of installation;
• reasonable price;
• wide variety of sizes;
• a variety of textures, imitating the surface of natural wood, and color versions;
• versatility. Sockets can be used with coatings of different types.

The relevance of the use of decorative plugs for heating pipes deserves no less attention. This is due to the peculiarities of the scheme of transportation of coolant through the engineering communication, which directly determines the method of connection of radiators. Most of these products in modern design are designed for 4 variants: one-way, diagonal, saddle and bottom connection. That is, on each of the corners of the batteries there is one hole, but not all 4 are used, but only 2 – one for the input of coolant, and the other for its output. It is obvious that the remaining "unemployed" two of them must be closed. In this case, decorative plugs will come to the rescue. These products differ not only in color, but also in shape. Metal plug can be the simplest spherical or even with a protruding part resembling an autumn oak leaf. But the plugs made of polymeric materials can be called decor only with a great strain. For the most part, such plugs are strictly functional.

Shutting off the heating pipes will elevate your house and create a more peaceful interior.

How to mount an ornamental pipe box at home using your own hands

Types

There are a few ways to conceal the pipes from people in the room and decorate them, including:

• Heating structures sink directly into the wall, which in itself is very convenient and not so difficult to implement, but in case of any malfunctions, the consequences will be very bad. Carrying out the installation of the pipeline is important to replace it completely and carefully check all the places of fastening, soldering and any joints in which there may be leaks.
• Disguise by means of furniture, which is most often characteristic of the kitchen, but can sometimes be found in other rooms as well.
• Using a special box, where pipes are placed. Make such a construction can be made of different materials, it is: plastic wagon, brick, plasterboard, wood.

The appearance of a heating pipe box can vary depending on the space in which it is installed.

• Box-cabinet, which forms a closed space, where you can not only hide pipes, but also to arrange the necessary household small things. It is very convenient to use it in the toilet, where the space is significantly limited.
• Skirting-box, needed to hide pipes with a small diameter, it is very convenient to install outlets near them, especially for the bathroom, where the level of humidity is high and you need to choose the right place to turn on electrical appliances.
• Box-shelf, which has a horizontal arrangement. This is convenient for the appropriate installation of heating structures in the room. It is possible to hide all communications effectively, but at the same time effectively, making the area useful.
• Box-shield, which helps to close large-sized structures. Screens can be very diverse in design and size, they will have one thing in common, mesh structure, which allows you to minimize heat loss, without depriving the room aesthetics.
• Decorative vertical structures are installed in the places of public utilities, most often these are risers.

When preparing to erect any of the aforementioned options, keep in mind that you can construct two different kinds of structures, each of which will have completely different qualities:

• Collapsible structures, their installation allows you to easily monitor the condition of the pipeline in any part of the room and control problem areas, if any.
• Stationary, structures that are installed for the longest possible period of operation and are not planned to be dismantled for a long time. Most often such boxes are made for gas pipes, for heating they will not be the best option.

Any kind of construction can be purchased or done on your own, but both require proper design elements and a clear idea of what is to be built. In order to conceal the battery, a screen is essential and must be perforated; if not, the screen won’t be able to handle the task at hand and will overheat the box, keeping the room cold. Wooden and plastic grates are both available, but wrought iron items can also be ordered if preferred.

Every pipe in a house or apartment has a point of entry and exit from the space, so these areas must be decorated. Plugs or overlays are the best ways to handle this. Although they may differ in appearance and material from one another from the outside, their purpose is always the same: to conceal the pipe and create a chic and attractive interior. Although rings are the most common type, you can also find square and oval versions, as well as versions that are intended for one or two pipes.

Cutting holes in the cloth that need to be sealed is a necessary step in the installation of stretch ceilings because modern technologies demand innovative approaches to material use. They are currently employed for ornamental rings for these reasons.

Their design is extremely simple, but still effective, they are two identical halves, which have a special lock at the joint, which snaps and is securely held in place

Selecting the appropriate material and color for these plugs is crucial to ensure they perform as intended.

The cups are a great option if you need to elegantly decorate the pipe but are unable to conceal it completely. They can be produced in various shapes, sizes, and materials. The most common material is chrome, but split-design plastic is also an option.

If the design calls for the use of valves or other moving parts occasionally, they can be concealed beneath the cap, which is chosen to blend in with the room’s aesthetics to blend in and not be seen, but if necessary, to allow for the use of all necessary components.

Instructions for building a box from drywall

1. It is necessary to measure the walls where the pipes are located. Make a detailed plan of the location of connections (places of possible leaks) for the future. Opposite the meters and valves should be located doors. If you want the box to look homogeneous, then make instead of doors removable parts of the structure.
2. Make markings of the future construction on the walls, on the floor and on the ceiling (for vertical structures).

There is at least 2.5–3 cm separating the pipes from the box’s walls!

1. Using a galvanized profile according to the markings, make a frame for the box. To do this, you will need self-tapping screws and a screwdriver if the walls are made of gypsum board. You can do without a screwdriver, but the work will take more time. If the walls are brick or concrete, then use dowels and screws.

Prior to mounting a box for vertical pipes, mark the walls with guides. The galvanized profile is mounted on the ceiling and floor only after the front edge is fastened using hangers or a bent edge.

It is possible to install non-standard designs with multiple edges, or corners, in the case of a vertical box.

When installing the frame between the rails, lintels made from the profile must be made if the vertical box is longer than 1.5 meters. One meter is the maximum separation between lintels.

1. Prepare sheets of drywall for installation so that there are as few joints as possible.
2. Use self-tapping screws to fasten the plasterboard sheets in place. Do not forget to make a hole for further access to communications.
3. Putty the corner or corners of the structure and the joints between the sheets.
4. Decorate the box in the same way as the rest of the walls in the room, including the installation of the skirting board.
5. Insert a door for access to the communications.

Similar to that, you can.

As we discussed at the beginning of the article, it is possible to create a useful construction out of even a box that fills an entire wall. Check out the video to see how you can carve out a niche:

Features of factory-made and homemade products

There are two primary categories for all decorative heating pipe boxes. Buildings can be constructed by hand or in a factory.

These interior components are often offered for sale in specialty shops. Retail stores have a good selection; you can find heating pipe screens in a range of hues and sizes. In addition, the structures are grouped based on their shapes. They may have an angular, round, or rectangular shape.

The risers are situated in the corners of the room, where corner ones are utilized. Additional alterations are employed to conceal the intra-apartment system.

There are numerous ways to produce these kinds of goods. For heating pipes, a plastic box is the most typical. This is a malleable and reasonably priced material. Typically, mounting is carried out on a profile frame. When purchasing such structures, it is always beneficial to keep an eye on the plastic quality. When bad polymers are exposed to heat, they eventually turn yellow. They may occasionally begin to swell, which significantly alters the appearance.

Products with a striking appearance are composed of sheet or perforated metal. The first choice is preferable if you tackle the problem from a practical standpoint because the holes enhance the amount of heat transfer.

MDF panel boxes are a cost-effective option (fine fraction). This material performs well and has a respectable appearance. The majority of models lack holes, which is their most obvious drawback. This can result in a 40% reduction in heat dissipation.

Even though there is a good variety of products made of various materials in stores, independently made boxes are highly sought-after. This solution allows for both cost savings and the creation of a design that precisely complements the room’s unique interior and style.

Remodeling of an apartment. container. How to conceal pipes used for heating.

Common resources for these kinds of needs are:

1. Brick. This is a good way of masking, but it"s quite complicated.
2. Plasterboard.
3. Plastic lagging.
4. Natural wood.

The room’s design frequently influences the material selection. The availability of funds is also very important.

Decorative protective boxes for home communications made of MDF and natural wood

MDF products are highly sought-after for designer makeovers because of their vast array of colors and ability to mimic almost any material’s texture. Contemporary materials remain unchanged in terms of color, strength, or form in response to temperature changes. When it comes to style and design, natural wood works wonderfully.

The pricey nature of MDF and wooden boxes is a drawback. Additionally, the cost of the natural wood screens and box is extremely high. Both materials are susceptible to mechanical influences from outside sources.

Installation of a decorative box

Whatever material is used to make the box, it is composed of two parts:

1. A guide chute with holes for fasteners, in which the pipes are laid.
2. A cover that closes the gutter by means of side latches.
3. Installation of the box, made as follows:
4. On the floor (wall, ceiling) is made pencil marking the passage of pipes.
5. To the marked line, the gutter is applied and the holes of its fasteners are marked on the wall (from 25 to 50 centimeters apart).
6. Drill holes of the required diameter, depth and number with a perforator with a hammer drill bit.
7. By means of dowel nails, the gutter is fixed along the entire length of the route.
8. Pipes are inserted inside the gutter.
9. Both parts of the box (cover-gutter) are connected to each other.

We hope that our article will assist you in selecting the appropriate decorative box for pipes for home communications, taking into account each type of pipe’s unique technical characteristics.

Advantages of using a plastic box

Hide ugly parts is a very useful thing to do. By doing this, you can elevate the room’s interior and remove any ugly details. The bathroom will feel happy and finished if everything that ruins the finish is hidden. It will become more tidier and appealing. The plastic panel box is the best solution to this issue.

It is crucial to consider a number of factors when building this decorative element to ensure that it does not obstruct the ability to take meter readings. Situations that are known to exist demand prompt, decisive action; the ability to complete repairs quickly is essential to preventing accidents.

It is important to consider the product’s multifunctionality in light of this.

There are multiple iterations. Plasterboard is particularly frequently used to make eye protection; plastic panels are also frequently used. While each of these choices is worthwhile in its own right, the final option proves to be the most sensible and practical. More pertinent is the question of how to use plastic panels to seal the bathroom pipes. This approach makes more sense and is simpler to use.

Its advantages include the following:

• The bathroom box made of this material does not need subsequent finishing.
• Easy dismantling with preservation of all components. This can come in handy when using pipelines with fitting and threaded connections.
• Simple installation of the design makes it a successful solution. It is easy to construct on your own without the use of inaccessible resources.
• High resistance to deformation and ease of care and maintenance. The material has high flexibility and strength. Damage will not be fatal. Any panel is easily changed for a new one.
• The compactness of the design is achieved by the insignificant thickness of the material.
• Functional convenient product will withstand repeated assembling and disassembling, inside it you can store a variety of items and accessories, as there are all conditions for that.

Despite its many benefits, this solution has a few minor drawbacks, one of which is its poor resistance to temperature deformations. Unremovable odor is also not a benefit. Over time, plastic breaks down and releases some unwanted components into the atmosphere.

How to make a box for pipes the subtleties of cladding the frame

Plasterboard is an easy material to cover the box with; just cut the necessary width of strips and screw one piece into the box on one side, then the other.

Watch the video to learn how to build a bathroom pipe box.

We won’t spend much time on it because it is preferable to think about the technology involved in lining the box with plastic. Since it appears a little more involved, we will break it down into steps and provide instructions for each step. Yes, I totally forgot that after the floor and walls are tiled, the frame needs to be covered with plastic.

1. Installation of the starter profile. Immediately install the entire profile we will not – if you go this way, then the cladding of the frame with plastic will turn into a real torment. At this stage of work, the box for plastic PVC pipes will require to install only one wall starter profile and small sections on the floor. We do not put the corner element and starter strip on the other side of the box yet.
2. Covering the first side with plastic. Here everything is simple – we cut the plastic into small pieces and insert them horizontally from the bottom to the top. Fix them do not need – if necessary, disassembly of the box will be carried out more easily. If a water meter or a faucet gets in the way, then in this place it is necessary to make a rectangular cutout and install a revision door. How to make a box in the bathroom photo
3. Installing a corner decorative element. We put the plastic corner on the end of the typed plastic – if you remember, we did not fasten it, so it will be easy enough to put it on. After it takes its position, we take a screwdriver and fasten it with teksami to the frame on the unclad side of the box.
4. Cladding the second side of the box. With the second side we do exactly the same as with the first – the plastic is inserted into the corner element, and its second end is fixed with texami to the wall guide profile.
5. Gluing the closing starter profile. Now, to formalize the docking of the last paneled side to the tile, you will have to do the following operation – take the starting profile and cut off the back shelf from it. It should turn out something like an L-shaped profile. We apply silicone to it or to the plastic itself and simply glue the modified starting strip into the corner. Remove excess silicone with a damp cloth.
6. Eliminating gaps in the places of adjoining the box to the tiled tiles. And at the final stage, to bring the full beauty, the seams formed between the tiles and the plastic box, we fill with sanitary silicone of white color and cultivate them, removing the excess with a finger wrapped with a damp cloth.

And that’s it! The plastic pipe box is prepared. You can now safely carry out the remaining repairs, including installing lighting fixtures, plumbing, and ceiling mounting. Generally speaking, to finish the bathroom repair entirely and appreciate the outcome.

Photo of the inspection hatch on a plastic pipe box

Finally, a brief note on how to dismantle the bathroom’s plastic pipe box in the event of an emergency. This is easy: as you recall, we have left one side of the plastic unfastened. To remove the plastic pieces, simply pull the corner element in the revision door area as far to the side as you can. The process of re-assembly, or restoration, is similar: just pull off the corner and reassemble everything.

Bathtub handles: varieties and hand-installed installation

Two variants of paneling of the frame

The finishing material’s components must be connected to the base. Think about the most popular choices, each with unique characteristics.

Working with PVC panels

Among the simplest ways to hide pipes is this one.

The plastic panel box is designed to be collapsible. You can remove the loose component if needed to gain access to pipes and other communication components.

Guidelines for carrying out the task:

1. Install the starter profile, carefully fixing it with small self-tapping screws on the installed guide part. Measure a strip of plastic panel of the required size, and then cut it off with a knife.
2. Fix one panel in the starter profile, the other – to fix to the corner profile, after which the latter is installed to the other plane of the box. For fastening, you can use "fleas" (small self-tapping screws).
3. The second side of the box is assembled by the same method, at the same time on the last plastic panel the starting profile is fixed and fastened, which is easiest to do with the help of silicone sealant.
4. In places where it is necessary to provide access to important communication elements (faucets, joints, meters) it is important to cut revision holes, on which special hatches are fixed (with sealant or other methods).
5. At the end of the work it is necessary to install plastic skirting boards at the joints of the panels with the floor, walls, ceiling.

It is crucial to remember which side the loose panel is still on in order to quickly disassemble the plastic box. If required, this component is moved as far away as feasible before being taken out and eliminated.

The same technique is used to restore the integrity of the structure following pipe inspection or repair work: the panel’s corner is pulled away and then put back in place.

Working with GVCL boards

Gypsum plasterboard coverings are also relatively simple to install.

In addition to sheets of moisture-resistant gypsum board, boxes can be embellished with paint, wallpaper, decorative plaster, and ceramic tiles.

1. First of all, it is necessary to correctly cut the sheets of GVCL in accordance with the calculated dimensions. To do this, they should be placed on a flat surface, marked with a tape measure and make small cuts on the surface.
2. The cuts should be aligned with a metal ruler or a long lath, and then cut the surface with a construction knife. Along the line drawn, you should break the plasterboard sheet, if necessary, trimming the edge with a knife.
3. The blocks prepared in this way are fastened to the frame using self-tapping screws. In this case, the sheets are pressed as hard as possible to the profiles, and screws are first screwed into the drywall, and then into the metal guides.
4. It is important to ensure that the flat caps of the fasteners are necessarily screwed on the surface line or even lower, which is especially important if it is planned to further finish the box with tile. To prevent cracks on the GKVL panels, it is important to screw in self-tapping screws at a distance of 20-30 mm from the edges.

After installation is finished, the structure needs to be ready for the next round of finishing work. In order to achieve this, sealant is applied to the joints and areas that adjoin horizontal surfaces in order to form a thick protective layer.

The fasteners are then smeared after putty has been applied to the surface. By adding perforated corners to both the inner and outer corners of the parts, you can reinforce the fasteners. Once the construction has been completed and thoroughly dried, you can begin gluing tiles or completing other finishing tasks.

Instructions for installing the frame

Installing the metal frame is a prerequisite, regardless of the type of coating that is provided for the box project.

It is crucial to abide by the following rules for this reason. Beginning with the walls next to the corner is where work should be done.

Markings must first be made on both horizontal and vertical surfaces.

Installing vertical guides—which are placed from the communications box or on both sides of the corner—is the first step in building a box for pipes.

The next step is to install guides (ud profile), which determine the box’s dimensions. With euroscrews (dowels), you can fasten them to the surface by using a drill to make the necessary holes in the right locations. Ideal self-tapping screws for tiled walls are "bloshka" screws (2.5 mm in length and 3.5 mm in diameter), which can be inserted into the intertile joints.

It is sufficient to position and secure the guides parallel to the floor if the pipes run horizontally. Next, a corner post made of two profiles ud should be twisted to form the outside corner. Their flanges ought to be angled in opposite directions at a right angle before being fastened together with tiny self-tapping screws.

With the assistance of horizontal components that are fixed on horizontal surfaces, the vertical structure should be fixed on the floor and ceiling.

The knife is used to cut the supporting profile CD into pieces that match the length and width of the box. The rigidity is established by fixing the first corner rib on the vertical surface. In order to connect the corner sections to the profile, the resulting profile sections are inserted with one end into the stiffener and the other end into the installed guide.

Lintels should be added at a specific distance, which can range from 30 to 70 cm. Lintels provide the system with strength and dependability and are also utilized for hanging panels.

The pipe box’s completed frame is made up of horizontal lintels and vertical guides, which give the construction rigidity. It’s also crucial to leave room for a hatch or door.

Once the work on one side is finished, the second corner profile is fitted to the other wall in the same manner, and the box’s frame is finished.

We reveal the keys to success in our guide on installing a plastic panel box in your bathroom. We’ll guide you through every step, from selecting the appropriate materials to taking exact measurements. Making a waterproof seal is essential, and we’ll walk you through the best methods to make sure it fits snugly. We’ll also talk about adequate ventilation to stop moisture accumulation and the development of mold. With our simple advice, you’ll have a lovely and useful bathroom in no time.

Laminated HDF

HDF (high density fiberboard) laminated sheets measuring 250 x 50 x 0 used to be available for purchase in stores.8(1) centimeters. These sheets could be tacked onto walls or placed on the floor. Laminated CDF boxes also worked quite well. An example would be a laminated CDF box (with a 10-year life expectancy at the time of the photograph) covering the horizontal water and sewer pipes in a bathroom.

Picture 1. The exterior of the bathroom’s detachable box

As you can see in the picture, the box is fitted with such care that it has a unique handle for removal and a hole where the washing machine’s sewage connection is connected. The majority of the box is usually covered by a washing machine that is placed in front of it. This box is constructed as follows:

Figure 1 shows how the detachable box is constructed.

The numbers in Figure 1 show:

One 50 mm-diameter horizontal sewer pipe;

2-tiles for the floor;

3-tiles for the walls;

4-the wooden bar that the detachable box is resting on;

5-detachable box;

6 – plastic corners on the outside and inside.

Water pipes, tile adhesive, and waterproofing for floors (not shown in the picture).

Of course, waterproof plywood can also be used to create such a box. The following is the order in which the box is made:

Figure 2 shows the steps involved in creating a removable sewer pipe box.

A – first, of course, lay the sewer and water pipes (not shown in the picture), and then lay ceramic tiles. A wooden bar is fixed on the wall, on which the box will be supported. The bar can be fixed as on the wall (as shown in the picture) and then it is better to fix it before laying ceramic tiles on the wall, and it can be fixed on the ceramic tile. It is best to make a bar from wood species resistant to rot, such as oak, ash or larch, but ordinary pine will also do. Before installation, the bar should be waterproofed, e.g. treated several times with olifa and then with oil paint, or once with olifa and a couple of times with oil paint. Sometimes pipes are laid after the surface is finished with tiles. There is nothing wrong with this, in this case the bar, on which the box will rest, will be fixed to the tiles. You can use metal corners instead of a wooden bar.

B – a removable box is made of laminated HDF or water-resistant plywood. The box is made so that the ends of the box do not touch the wall and the floor. The distance between the ends and the wall and floor can be from 2 to 10 mm. This is done in order to minimize the risk of water ingress to the ends and speeds up the process of making the box, as at this stage you do not need to fit the parts very precisely. The ends of the laminated HDF must then be thoroughly waterproofed. Waterproof the entire surface of the waterproof plywood or 3-5 cm high sections at the joints. You can do it with the same olifa and 2-3 layers of ordinary oil paint, and if you are pressed for time and do not want to wait 10-20 hours for each next layer to dry, you can use nitro paint. You can also use metal corners instead of a wooden bar. If the box is made of water-resistant plywood, then instead of a wooden bar, you can screw screws directly into the plywood, if the thickness allows it. Then the inner plastic corners are glued or screwed onto the removable box. At this stage, the box is put in the designed position. There may not be a corner in the place where the box meets the wall, as shown in photo 1. But in the place of adjoining the box to the floor, such a corner will minimize the ingress of water on the end and inside the box.

C: Liquid nails can be used in place of tile adhesive when adhering ceramic tiles to the box. An explanation of how to layout corners when working with ceramic tiles is provided.

Execution of the frame

Marking the walls, floor, and ceiling (if applicable) is the first step in the work. The lines’ size and placement will correspond to where the box’s walls are. A level should be used to verify the markings to avoid warping the frame. Avoiding situations where the plasterboard box walls in the bathroom obstruct the furniture door or entrance door from opening is necessary.

The frame’s parts are put together in accordance with the level

If all the rules are observed, and the marking is done correctly, you can start assembling the frame of the box under the bathtub. Metal profiles are cut to the required size using metal scissors. First, the pieces are attached to the floor and walls – they create reference points for fixing the frame. Then, the vertical supports of the support frame of the box under the bathtub are assembled. The assembly is completed by installing the top rail, which unites all the elements into a single rigid structure. Auxiliary rails are installed for the maintenance of meters and sewer revisions. In the future, they will serve as a base on which the revision hatch will be attached.

Metal rails are used to assemble the frame.

Screws known as "seeds" are used to self-tapping to join the profiles. To stop the screw tip from slipping off, the metal surface has a notch. Installing the fasteners is made simple by having them rest on these recesses.

Putting the frame together

The framework is put together encircling floor-mounted pipes.

Pipe penetrations must be installed in the frame.

Minuses of PVC-coroba for masking pipes in the toilet

Although plastic box construction has many advantages, it is not without its drawbacks. They are obviously not as important, but they still deserve to be mentioned:

– combustibility and temperature deformation: when a material comes into contact with heat-producing elements, such as fire or welding sparks, it melts and burns, emitting a highly toxic smoke;

– an unpleasant smell that comes with all PVC products;

– Poor environmental friendliness: this is a feature shared by all materials made of polyvinyl chloride, such as skirting boards, pipes, and flooring. This polymer breaks down naturally and releases certain volatile chemicals into the atmosphere. Although a person does not receive a toxic dose due to the extremely brief contact, they have the potential to be harmful to health.

Choosing a box for pipes in the bathroom

It is vital to think about the box’s construction before beginning installation, keeping in mind that access to the pipes can be necessary.

The box shouldn’t get in the way of the pipes’ replacement or breakage, and it shouldn’t completely disassemble the building in order to get to the pipes.

Tile was a perfect choice for the box’s finishing material.

When installing the box on your own, it’s important to keep in mind the fundamental steps involved in the process. This will improve the end result’s quality and make the structure more sturdy. A sturdy material is selected for the frame’s foundation; typically, this is an aluminum lath or profile. Measurements and calculations are made for communications that need to be hidden before creating the frame.

Once the calculations are complete, you can move straight on to the frame assembly.

Self-tapping screws are used to secure the laths to the wall; however, wooden bars can be fixed at the wall’s point of connection beforehand.

You can begin installing the cladding after the frame is put together and in place. There are numerous cladding choices. Although it is preferable to use the same material as the bathroom walls, the owner may choose to use a different finish.

The most common type of plasterboard for cladding is gypsum because even novices can work with it. Any kind of decorative finish can be applied to its surface.

Method:

• Before the material is cut, measurements and calculations are carried out.
• After that, mounting to the frame is carried out with self-tapping screws.
• After fixing, all seams are grouted with a special putty.
• Then the finish decorative finishing is carried out.

It is important to consider the materials being used and whether the plasterboard needs to be coated again. A pretty skirting board seals the joint with the wall.

Polystyrene panel cladding eliminates the need for a frame. The feet on these panels are unique and can be used to change the required size. Additionally, glue is used to join the panels.

The longevity, resistance to moisture, and ease of cleaning of ceramic tiles make them very popular. The plasterboard box that is already installed is used for box facing.

Hiding pipes in the wall and hi-tech bathroom

The simplest way to reach the meters connected to the toilet’s pipes is through roller shutters.

The hi-tech look is associated with the newest technological advancements, the use of contemporary interior furnishings and sanitary ware (installing a steel bathtub, for instance). But it’s impossible to avoid the standard box here either. The only thing left to do is cover it with chrome grids. One benefit of this solution is that it can be quickly disassembled in an emergency. Alternately, turn back to the metal box.

• Metal sheets are fixed on a frame made of profiles.
• They are fixed with self-tapping metal screws.
• The necessary access hole is made in advance. It closes the sanitary hatch door, which is hung on hinges.
• In extreme cases, the box is closed with the same plasterboard, but glued with non-standard tiles with a pattern opposite in style to the main pattern of the walls and floor.
• If space permits, instead of a box, you can make a cabinet, which will not only solve the problem of disguising the water pipes and the connection point of the sewer and toilet, but will also be functional: you can put things into it.

For a bathroom like this, roller shutters would also be appropriate. They will save space, go perfectly with the design, and enable you to quickly access communications that are hidden behind them if needed.

The opposite is more common in modern design: pipes are removed from the floor and walls to give the impression that there are no pipes at all, including sewage and water pipes. With Screed, you can conceal pipes beneath the surface. They create a perforator hole in the walls at the appropriate depth, caulk the pipes together, and then cover them with tile or another material.

Plasterboard box

This is among the least expensive options.

Plasterboard itself, metal wall and main profiles, a hatch, self-tapping screws and dowels, and tools (a perforator and a screwdriver with attachments) are needed to build a plasterboard box. You can also purchase ornamental components.

Steps involved in making a box:

1. Designing. To begin with, it is worth determining where the box will be located, what will be its dimensions, where the hatch will be located. The distance between the box and the pipe should not be less than 3 cm.
2. Frame installation. This stage begins with fixing the wall profiles to the wall or wall and floor, if the box is in contact with it on one side, using dowels. Then install two more ribs of the box at a distance from the pipe so that the square frame came out. Lintels perpendicular to the ribs are installed between the ribs and fastened with self-tapping screws.
3. Plasterboard cladding. This material is fixed to the metal box with special small self-tapping screws. It is recommended to take moisture resistant plasterboard. It is suitable for both bathrooms and living rooms, where condensation can also occur. Determine the place for the hatch.
4. Installation of a hatch. The hatch is best located in places where there are connections, faucets and various appliances. For convenience, it is better to buy a ready-made hatch with a door, which is easy to install on the frame between the plasterboard paneling.
5. Finishing works. There are many finishing options. For example, you can cover the drywall with putty and then paint or plaster it. You can cover with tiles or wallpaper and decorate the corners with decorative elements. The choice of the final coating depends on the overall style idea and aesthetics of the room.

Preparatory work

There are a few things you need to do before you begin assembling the box.

• Examine all the pipes that will be concealed. Eliminate defects while the communications are in plain sight. If a new pipeline is installed in parallel, try to minimize the number of connections.

• Decide on the look of the bathroom box. It can hide only a small area where the pipes run, or it can cover a fairly large area. The advantage of the first option is in the economy of material and no need to sacrifice free space. If you choose a larger modification, the additional space inside the structure can be adapted for storage of things.

Advice: It is more convenient to make the box first if you are going to make one. It will conceal a portion of the ceiling, saving tile installation here.

• Take the necessary measurements and make a drawing of the box. At this stage, provide important additional elements such as access hatches for meters, valves and unreliable connections.
• Calculate the amount of material required with a small reserve.

Connecting the panels horizontally is more practical. In the event of the vertical variant, extra frame cross bars every 40 cm will need to be installed in order to guarantee the rigidity of the structure.

Plastic box

The pipes can be concealed in plastic panel boxes in crowded spaces like offices, restrooms, and hallways. It is advised that the installation be completed concurrently with the room’s paneling. It will be possible to forecast the rational consumption of material in this way.

Installing is done in the following sequence:

• first, the battens are installed on the ceiling and walls. Most often wooden planks with a cross-section of about 40×40 millimeters are used for its manufacture.
• Fix the bars to the ceiling and walls using dowels equipped with a plastic sleeve. Then align them horizontally and vertically.
• Install additional support beams at the place where the heating mains pass through the floor and walls. The horizontal and vertical frame posts will be attached to them.
• Having finished covering the main ceiling and wall planes, cover the frame of the box with panels.

A plastic box is a stylish and contemporary pipe concealment option.

Very helpful advice! Make use of special skirting boards with a groove for plastic panels to greatly improve the aesthetics of the adjacent corners.

First, panels that are cut to the height of the box are installed to clad the side plane. Those ought to be standing up straight during this procedure. It is acceptable to use tiny nails, construction staplers, or specialty adhesives to secure the plastic.

Long longitudinal panels or short plastic pieces placed across can be used to cover the upper plane.

The final step in finishing the work is to attach unique components to the corners, which will conceal all of the cut edges.

OSB or chipboard, plain or laminated

Earlier, chipboard boxes were used to cover pipes when there were issues with the aforementioned materials, such as difficulty in obtaining them. I also did it about 15 to 20 years ago. We had to construct boxes out of regular and laminated chipboard, but both types of boxes suffered from the same issues when exposed to water on a regular or intermittent basis:

Figure 4. A particleboard box with ceramic tiles inside that have swollen due to condensation.

Picture 5: A chipboard box that swelled from water while being cleaned.

Photo 4 shows a removable box consisting of 2 parts, which covers the sewer pipe of the toilet bowl outlet and a removable box adjoining it, which covers the water and sewer pipes with a diameter of 50 mm for sewage from the bathtub and washing machine. Between the inner corners of the box you can see a gap of about 1 cm. The gap was caused by condensation. When the drain or flush fitting fails, and in modern compact toilets this happens quite often, then the water begins to constantly flow into the sewer system. In winter, this leads to the formation of large amounts of condensation on the surface of the pipe and consequently on the box adjacent to the pipe. Increasing swelling of chipboard, the joints between the tiles have to be periodically grouted. The adjoining box shown in photo 4 is also a bit swollen, you can tell by the rather large width of the joint between the horizontal and vertical tiles. In the same apartment and at the same time, another bathroom box was also made. The adjoining box, which covers the water and sewer pipes that carry the waste water from the kitchen sink and dishwasher, is more affected here. As you can see in photo 5, the chipboard has swollen so much that the tiles have risen by 5-6 mm. This was caused by water getting on the box when periodically cleaning the trap and as a result of frequent wet cleaning.

Although OSB boards should theoretically swell less when exposed to water because they are composed of larger sawdust, my experience with chipboard was sufficient, so I don’t experiment with OSB boards. I predict that the outcome will remain roughly the same over time. Laminated chipboard was used to make the boxes pictured in photos 2 and 3, and although the edges were treated several times, nothing improved.

– Plasterboard or plasterboard that resists moisture. Despite its catchy name, water-resistant gypsum board, like regular gypsum board, deteriorates when exposed to water on a regular basis. Nevertheless, gypsum board crumbles instead of swelling like chipboard does. Plasterboard can generally be used to make boxes, but it is preferable to use a different material for the lower portion because this is where water stains or condensation from a malfunctioning toilet are most likely to occur. Plasterboard sheets, whether regular or waterproof, need to be waterproofed on both sides if they are going to be used to cover the pipes.

Tile construction

Water meters and pipes will be hidden by a plasterboard box.

The required set for a plasterboard box is:

• metal profile
• drywall
• metal self-tapping screws

In the event that a bar is utilized in lieu of a profile, self-tapping screws are required on wood. The profile is exposed, drilled into the walls and ceiling (or bars), and the proposed box’s frame is constructed next to the pipes based on the level.

Plasterboard is then used to line the structure, and tiles are added afterwards. A hatch provides access to the plumbing and can be closed in a variety of ways. It is possible to create a shield that virtually hides the hole and is likewise covered in tiles. Plastic shields and doors come in every size.

It is possible to make in the box roller shutters, sanitary overhead hatch, size not less than 80×50. Grids, both wooden and metal, are used. There are many options.

Accessories for installation – corrugation for heating pipes, skirting board, bypass, sockets, winding, bandage

Heating pipe installation is just not feasible without the necessary supplies and equipment. It’s also important to remember that a lot will depend on how good they are. Skirting boards, clamps, sockets, heat pipe for heating, different heating pipe adapters, and heating pipe corrugations are all crucial components.

Because of its flexibility, corrugated pipe is thought to be the most efficient material.

Insulation is made easier by using corrugated pipes.

Simple metal pipes were used for winding heating pipes not too long ago.

There are various types of corrugated pipes, including:

• Polymer pipes. Such pipes are made of materials such as PVC or PE plastic. Such pipes are used for repair work and for laying communication lines and electric cables.
• Steel corrugated pipes. These pipes are called "heating corrugations". Such corrugations can replace pipes made of different material as a bandage for heating pipes. They can also be used for air conditioning systems, air heating systems and air ducts. Such corrugations have one significant disadvantage. They can bend quickly when subjected to mechanical stresses. The installation of steel corrugated pipes involves the construction of a protective box (clamp on the heating pipe).

From a technical point of view, installing pipe systems using GERZ skirting boards is a competent solution. Installing channels for the subsequent pipe laying will be made easier if all of the skirting board components are precisely coordinated.

The water supply and heating system pipes can be concealed with skirting systems. Wood or plastic can be used for GERZ heating pipe skirting.

Plastic trim for walls. In the event that heating systems of the two-pipe or one-pipe variety with a diameter of up to 2.2 cm are installed, holders are employed, enabling height adjustments. The primary portion of the holder will hold the pipes in place even if the cladding on a component like a floor skirting for heating pipes is removed. 6x60mm or 6x80mm dowels are used to secure the main component.

Bypass for heating pipes

Skilled professionals decorate the heating pipe where it meets the fabric by using the bypass. The work will appear more elegant and polished because of the pipe outlines.

Decorative socket

When installing parquet flooring, the decorative finishing of the heating pipes that run through the floor presents a serious challenge. Heating pipes can be finished in two different ways.

In the first method, asbestos-containing cardboard is used to wrap the pipes very tightly—that is, without any gaps—coil to coil. This is carried out at the future baseboard’s height. Next, a material with good elasticity and heat resistance is laid around the pipe.

A straightforward cement mortar is used to close the gaps.

The pipe is then framed with a skirting board on three sides. Next, a layer of soundproofing is installed, and cement mortar is poured on top of it all the way up to the baseboard. The location where the pipe exits the floor will need to be painted to give it an attractive appearance after the mortar has fully set.

The second method is even simpler. The gap between the parquet and the pipe is filled by means of an elastic sealant with good heat resistance. The place where the floor and the pipe meet is masked with a decorative socket. Thanks to a wide range of sockets, they can be selected for pipes of any diameter. Rosettes for heating pipes consist of two parts, and their connection takes place thanks to a spike. At the joints of the two parts, the sockets are smeared with glue. After the glue dries, the sockets are connected in a way to girth the pipe, and then pressed to the floor as tightly as possible. Remove adhesive residues with a soft cloth.

Useful tips on the device

Expert advice on construction arrangement should be considered when making the following decisions:

• If the box is intended to disguise vertical pipes, the marking should be done starting from the floor.
• It is obligatory to provide a door or hatch at the valve and water meter.
• Regardless of the material used for the system, its inner surface should be treated with an antifungal agent to prevent harmful microorganisms.
• In a bathroom with a high vapor content, it is highly desirable to avoid wooden structures: in this case, metal profiles should be preferred.
• It is not advisable to use different types of chipboard, including water-resistant boards, as this material swells under the influence of water vapor.
• When attaching the structure to the ceiling, the transverse parts are located at a distance of 30 centimeters from each other to ensure proper rigidity of the structure.
• With closely placed pipes, it is better not to build separate boxes around each of them, but to create a single structure for the entire communication system.

It is crucial to make sure the box does not come into contact with the communications; the lining should be at least three centimeters away from the pipe.

As an alternative to a partition box, consider roller shutters. They offer complete access to the pipelines and a fashionable appearance to the interior.

Choosing the best design

Although pipe enclosures can be made in many different ways, the following configurations are the most popular ones.

Wardrobe boxes. Typically, risers and other vertical systems come with this option. The communications are fully accessible due to the design. Furthermore, it’s simple to integrate with shelves and other accessories to make the most of your usable space.

Dividend boxes. These structures are erected throughout the room’s height and breadth, essentially isolating a particular area. Even though the bathroom’s actual space is somewhat smaller, the room still looks very tidy because all of the communication equipment is hidden.

This option works particularly well in large bathrooms. It is also advised when using a wall-hung toilet because the partition can conceal the communication and installation systems. You can also put storage spaces for necessities like household cleaning supplies behind the partition.

Horizontal boxes are also very popular, as they allow you to hide the pipes that are next to the floor or ceiling in addition to vertical systems.

Small box designed to accommodate the pipes. The most popular style, which essentially takes up no space and gives the interior a tidy appearance. These systems can be placed next to the floor or ceiling, vertically or horizontally.

We shall examine each step of creating such a construction in-depth below.

Types of decorative screens

It is possible to conditionally divide all methods used to lay heating pipes hidden into two groups:

• factory ready products;
• homemade boxes.

The first category consists of ready-made screens. Their affordability and simplicity of installation are their advantages. It suffices to put together a prefabricated design and attach it in accordance with the instructions; there is no need to create anything underneath the heating pipes. An additional advantage of these screens is that the box is simple to remove and install in the event of an accident or the need to replace a pipe.

As a point of reference. Whole sets of ornamental screens, complete with a single-piece box for the pipe and battery, are available for purchase.

There are no significant drawbacks to the factory screens. Why do so many homeowners choose to cover unsightly pipes with plastic or plasterboard? The solution is straightforward: the riser is entirely covered by a box of plasterboard, which allows for any type of cladding to fit into any interior design. Although there is a large assortment, factory-made goods are not varied enough to please every homeowner, and some people simply dislike them; taste is all that matters.

Conversely, drywall homemade blind screens have a single technical drawback. The riser’s enclosed space causes the air inside it to be 5–10 degrees warmer than the surrounding air. Simultaneously, the heat from it essentially doesn’t enter the space. In the case of an apartment, blind screens for the heating pipes rob you of your rightful portion of heat, which you pay a high price for.

Second nuance: as the temperature differential between the box’s enclosed space and the street rises, more heat exchange occurs with the street and less with the room. Put simply, it indicates that you are responsible for paying for the environment’s heating. However, there is a workaround: installing high-quality thermal insulation around the pipe beneath the drywall will cost extra.

Advantages of the masking box

Modern bathroom designs frequently incorporate structures like these to conceal one or more pipes, as these boxes offer several indisputable benefits.

The interior of the bathroom will look elegant with a plasterboard or plastic panel pipe box. Any room can successfully incorporate such a design.

These kinds of constructions are typical:

• Neat appearance, which is achieved by using quality materials for manufacturing and design of the structure.
• Easy installation. The system can be performed not only during major, but also during cosmetic repairs, since the box can be installed even on top of the produced finishing.
• Providing easy access to the pipeline, which allows not only to take meter readings, but also to monitor the condition of the pipes, and if necessary, to repair appliances and communications.
• The possibility of combining the box with a toilet installation, shelves and other details, thanks to which the optimal use of the area of even a small room is achieved.

A well-crafted and finished box can combine aesthetics and functionality to truly decorate the bathroom.

Both the functionality and the appearance of your bathroom can be completely transformed by installing a plastic panel box. These panels provide insulation against heat and moisture and are an affordable, long-lasting way to improve the look of your bathroom. You can guarantee a successful installation that will leave your bathroom looking clean and contemporary with the appropriate strategy and a few insider tips.

Being well-prepared is one of the keys to a successful installation. Make sure the walls where the panels will be installed are completely clean and dry before beginning the installation process. This guarantees a smooth surface on which the panels will stick, avoiding any adhesion or alignment problems. To ensure a smooth and expert finish, take the time to precisely measure and cut the panels to fit the dimensions of your bathroom walls.

A crucial element to contemplate is the selection of adhesive. Choosing an excellent adhesive made especially for plastic panels will guarantee a solid and durable bond. As directed by the manufacturer, carefully apply the adhesive to the back of each panel. This will give your bathroom walls a polished appearance by preventing any gaps or uneven installation.

Make sure to maintain correct panel alignment and spacing when installing the panels. Spacers can be used to help guarantee consistency and uniformity during the installation process. To further ensure that the panels are plumb and straight, use a level. Any crooked or uneven lines can take away from the overall design of your bathroom.

Lastly, don’t overlook the final details. To keep a watertight seal and stop water seepage after the panels are installed, silicone caulking should be used to seal any joints or gaps. For a neat, finished appearance, think about putting molding or trim pieces around the panel edges. Installing a plastic panel box in your bathroom can be a simple and satisfying project that improves the aesthetics and usability of your area with careful planning and execution.

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