Russian stove design scheme

On a chilly winter’s day, picture arriving home to a warm and welcoming home where the outside world has been left outside. Achieving such comfort has long been a challenge in many parts of the world, particularly in colder regions like Russia. The classic Russian stove is one of the longest-lasting methods of home heating in Russia. It is more than just a heating device; it is a source of warmth, a cultural icon, and a representation of home.

The Russian stove is a marvel of efficiency and creativity, developed over centuries to offer warmth and usefulness. The Russian stove functions on the straightforward but efficient tenet of heat retention, in contrast to contemporary heating systems that rely on forced air or radiators. Its substantial masonry construction ensures a consistent and uniform warmth throughout the living area by slowly absorbing and releasing heat.

However, the Russian stove is a multipurpose masterpiece that is much more than just a heating device. To optimize heat distribution and utilization, a variety of chambers and channels are incorporated into the design. Every component, from the firebox where wood is burned to the complex network of flues and passages that distribute heat, works together to maximize effectiveness and reduce fuel consumption.

The Russian stove’s adaptable design is among its most intriguing features. Although the fundamental ideas stay the same, local customs and personal preferences may influence the precise design and features. To increase their usefulness and charm, some stoves come with built-in benches for seating or even a tiny oven for baking bread.

When we examine the Russian stove’s design scheme in more detail, we find that it is more than just a heating blueprint—rather, it is a representation of Russian culture and heritage. Every aspect of it is rich in tradition and symbolism, from the elaborate tile work that adorns its exterior to the fire-stoking rituals. It is evidence of the enduring bond that exists between people and the hearth, where warmth provides both physical and spiritual comfort.

The device of the Russian furnace

It was challenging to locate two stoves that were exactly alike, even in antiquity when these heat sources were widely used. If the house owners so desired, the same master stove maker could alter or enhance his creation in every manner.

But the action principle, which was created by an unidentified master and emerged from centuries of darkness, has remained unwavering throughout time. A unique method for burning solid fuel, adjusting the heat, and getting rid of smoke fumes in a Russian stove.

Therefore, you should first familiarize yourself with the Russian furnace’s mechanism in order to comprehend how this antiquated and distinctive heater operates. Many furnace projects with various improvements are underway these days, but they are all based on the conventional design depicted in the figure:

The entire structure is supported by a foundation that is situated at a certain distance—typically, at least a quarter of an arch’s width, or roughly 17 cm—from the closest wall. The following general measurements of the furnace were noted:

• width – 2 arshins (142 cm);
• length – 3 arshins (213 cm);
• Height from floors to the top of the bed – 2.5 arshin (178 cm).

Originally constructed primarily of brick, the lower portion of the building (Opechee) is hollow on the inside. Previously, it was frequently made of wooden bars. A unique opening known as the wrapping is created to allow access to this area on the front side. Its functions include storing household appliances and storing and drying firewood. Above the backing is a different opening that has been undergone. The Opera’s arch is composed of bricks that have been laid out in the shape of an arch. Sand or another heat-intensive substance is then placed on top.

It should be noted that the arches covering the stove openings in the Russian stove were customarily constructed using an odd number of bricks.

On top of the backfill is laid under and the crucibles of bricks without the use of the solution. The bottom and arch of the crucible is performed with a small slope (about 50-80 mm over the entire length) towards the entrance to the fuel – the mouth. In the figure where the stove diagram is shown, it is clearly visible that the space above the inclined arch and walls of the furnace is also covered with sand. Only in some places, at the discretion of the owners, stoves are arranged. These are openings adjacent to the crucible through the wall in half a brick. The stoves allow you to quickly warm the room and dry small things.

Over the stoves, two rows of bricks are placed, followed by a bed that is situated directly above the crucible. The cheeks are the walls on either side of the mouth, which is the latter’s output to the sixth. Highlo, the bell that expands downward where smoke goes during operation, is located in front of the mouth. The smoke pipe itself is constructed above; to block the channel, a valve and a break with a half-column are installed in it.

Principle of operation

Drawings of the Russian stove in the context given below show how the fuel is burned and the combustion products are removed:

The characteristics of the combustion process, in addition to the chimney’s inherent traction, facilitate the movement of gases within the Russian furnace. The room’s cold air enters the mouth and collides with the opposing stream of smoke gases en route. In this instance, they essentially do not mix; the smoke takes up the lower portion of the aisle and the air, the upper. The flows exchange heat after meeting at the bent and mouth, much like a working natural gas-air heat exchanger.

To fold the Russian stove, you need to understand very well how all processes in the fuel pass. Heated air enters the combustion zone, and smoke gases leave it through the upper zone of the furnace, leaving the mouth, highlight and further, into the chimney pipe. But this does not happen right away, combustion products make several revolutions inside the fuel space and are burned, giving the heat to the walls of the stove as much as possible. This forces them to do an inclined configuration of the camera and the presence of a spin, whose role is identical to the fireplace tooth in large English fireplaces. That is, within the firebox, a multi -route transmission of heat gases is organized without the device of extra smoke channels.

On the one hand, the size of the Russian stove with the lounger is also fairly large because of the fuel’s large dimensions. However, the furnace’s efficiency is at least 60%, which is a benchmark that most other solid-fuel air heating plants are unable to meet. Not to mention the Russian stove’s long-term healing qualities and capacity to hold its temperature.

It is the only place where you can cook incredibly delicious food, provided you follow the right procedure and use the languor process after the crucible has broken down. And lastly, a beautifully finished Russian stove still looks amazing in a contemporary setting.

Many of the modifications to the ancient structure have emerged as a result of its numerous modernizations over the years. One such modification is a heating-welding stove with a low stove lounger. In this instance, the Russian stove’s basic working principle is maintained, but the floors are already heated thanks to smoke gases that are dispersing through a number of pathways rather than the crucible. This alteration can be challenging, particularly for inexperienced users.

Consequently, it makes sense to think about how a lounger and a stove in the standard design are built into the masonry of a Russian furnace. Only in this instance does the heat source have an additional feature that allows it to heat water for domestic use. We’ll examine each step of the procedure one by one.

Laying the foundation

Similar to building a house, building a furnace starts with the foundation device. After selecting a design, the future furnace’s measurements are determined using drawings, and a hole with dimensions at least 100 mm larger is dug. The type of soil determines the foundation plate’s structure and depth, although the ground is often excavated to a depth of 250–300 mm. After that, place a 100 mm-thick cushion of crushed stone and fully compact it. The pit’s perimeter is lined with a wooden formwork.

Performing the foundation for a Russian reinforced concrete stove is the most dependable option in the current climate. Initially, the knitting of the periodic profile reinforcement frame with a 150×150 mm cell is done. After installation, concrete can be poured so that it is flush with the floor. If you are making the concrete by hand, you must pay attention to the following proportions:

• Cement M400 – 1 part;
• sand – 3 parts;
• Crushed stone – 7 parts.

Suggestions. It is advised to cover the bottom of the pit with plastic wrap that has an overwhelming film on the formwork boards in order to obtain a solid foundation plate. It will prevent concrete from losing moisture while it gains strength and act as a waterproofing layer.

Concrete typically reaches its maximum strength in 24 days, but you can move on to masonry after 3–4 days since the concrete’s strength will be sufficient to support the weight of the bricks that have been laid. The foundations of the furnace and the beam building do not bind to one another in order to prevent cracks in the supporting structures caused by uneven soil deformations. You must leave a 20 mm space between the foundations in order to perform a deformation seam; this space can be filled with polystyrene or tarred board.

Harvesting of materials

The construction of a Russian stove involving a stove and couch requires a premium, full-bodied ceramic brick free of chips and cracks. Quantity: at least 2000 pieces; approximately 100 buckets will be needed for the solution, not including the pipe’s construction. Since there should be no room for doubt regarding the latter’s quality, it is best to buy a ready-made construction mixture from a retail network; clay from the closest ravine is most definitely not appropriate. Furthermore, the following components and add-ons are required:

• Cast iron plate for 2 burners;
• Topa door 140 x 250 mm;
• door for blown 130 x 130 mm;
• grate of grate 260 x 280 mm;
• a valve with a hole of 260 x 240 mm – 2 pcs;
• Vyshka with a hole of 220 mm;
• Water steel tank 400 x 260 x 280 mm;
• Corner, strip and roof steel.

The furnace starts to build after the foundation plate is coated with a layer of thermal and waterproofing material (you can use a steel sheet, basalt cardboard, and so forth). Using a trowel or by hand, apply a layer of solution to the base, and then place a brick from a bucket on top of it. This is the method used for laying bricks during work. First, the prepared brick is lowered into a bucket of water. The brick is further moved in various directions, rubbed, and then violently crushed. unused solution that is scraped off with a trowel.

You should continuously check the angles’ accuracy—both horizontal and vertical—while working in masonry. Remember to measure a rectangle’s diagonals; they need to be equal. Here, the following equipment is utilized:

The layout and sequence of the Russian furnace will assist in performing correct masonry on a novice stove. Here are some sketches, cuts, and rough layout plans of a stove with a lounger, along with some accessories.

Crucial! All except for is the solution for fastening the structure. There are no differences because the bricks fit one to another snugly.

Schemes of brick rows

The Russian stove’s arched arches are masonry, and the work is done using unique, circled wooden templates. They are prefabricated into a frame consisting of two semicircular shields with a board flooring. It turns out to be a formwork for bricks, as the figure illustrates:

Clinical bricks for the vault had to be cut from whole stones; they were previously produced in finished form. The optimal choice is a stone-cutting machine with a circular cutting head; the stone will yield a precise and uniform cut. Respect a long-standing custom by using only an odd number of stones for the vault.

The chimney scheme

The building of a chimney is the final phase. This is a different branch of science, and the Russian stove’s chimney layout is shown below to help with understanding:

Apart from the pipe itself, the chimney consists of the following components:

• cutting. Need to ensure fire isolation from a wooden overlap of a house with a thickness of 1.5-2 bricks;
• Rig: this is the chimney passage node through the roof;
• Zeolok: a multi -purpose element that improves the traction that provides strength and so on.

Crucial! The full solution is removed from the pipe cavity before building the chimney, and the brick is put inwardly by the smooth side. Nothing should get in the way of a good rod because it’s essential to the Russian furnace’s regular operation.

Masonry is created in line with the plan using the same furnace solution, but only up to the roof’s level. There, the original solution needs to be replaced with cement, which is sand-based and weather-resistant. To prevent condensation from forming inside, it is advised to plaster the attic-based furnace chimney section with a layer of clay over a metal grid. Insulating the chimney’s exterior with materials like basalt fiber is ideal.

How to drown a Russian stove correctly

Prior to anything else, the furnace needs to be carefully dried after construction; this requires careful attention to detail. A little flame is placed on the grates in the morning and burns for one to two hours. You must take out the air cork from the pipe if the stove starts to smoke. To accomplish this, file a tiny light using chips on a bit. After a week, the process is repeated in the evening and so on, progressively adding more firewood.

The appearance of color homogeneity and the disappearance of wet stripes on bricks indicate that the stove is well dried. Small cracks in the furnace design might develop in the future; these need to be filled with clay solution as previously demonstrated and slightly deepened with a sharp object.

If you intend to decorate the Russian furnace further, you can only do so once it has completely dried.

The Russian furnace has unique features for its daily operation. The logs’ bones are arranged close to the mouth when it is ignited, and to control how it flares up, it must be carefully pushed into the crucible. As with throwing firewood, we need to be somewhat dexterous in this situation. Typically, the logs are just tossed into the furnace and then pushed with a poker into the crucible. It is preferable to light the kindle gradually rather than all at once with a large amount of fuel. First, raw wood needs to dry and fold into a cod.

The person who believes that building a Russian stove by hand is incorrect is straightforward. It is highly not recommended for an ignorant person in the furnace to take on construction work. Dutch and Swede are simple stoves that need at least some practice. The best way to begin building a Russian stove is to enlist the assistance of a master; only those who have completed a similar task successfully will be suitable.

DIY Russian stoves: drawings, diagram and description of masonry

Nowadays, the classic Russian stove with a lounger is regarded as a singular construction. One can find such a device in private city houses as well as in villages. It serves as a place to rest or dry items in addition to providing heat for the space. It is preferable to enlist the assistance of an accomplished master since certain knowledge is required to construct such a structure by hand. Any mistake made during construction could mean that everything has to be redone.

The design of the Russian furnace

Due to the stark differences in the structures, drawings of Russian furnaces can vary greatly.

There are three sizes of furnaces: small, medium, and large.

The Russian stove has an oven, a bed, and is used for cooking and heating. Its structure must be studied in order to construct one of these.

The following departments make up the traditional Russian furnace’s device diagram:

• curtain – used for drying firewood. In many furniture structures, such a department is not due to its unclaimed;
• cold stove – dishes are stored in it. It is also not always built;
• Sixth – is a niche in front of the crucible. It installs a boot for cooking. And if the plate is in another place, they put food in the six, so that it does not cool;
• Under – this is the bottom of the crucible. It is necessary tilt to the camera to make it easier to move the dishes in it. The surface of this element should be polished;
• Bornoles or hob – used to lay firewood and install heat -resistant dishes. The chamber set should also be made with a small slope to the entrance. Thanks to such a configuration, hot air accumulates under the ceiling, warming up the bed and walls of the stove on the sides;
• Peretrube is a niche above which the chimney pipe begins;
• Vyushka – is a window with a door with which a chimney is blocked. Through it they get to the damper, with the help of which they regulate traction;
• lynch – is located behind the chimney, above the crucible. When the stove begins to drown, it warms up well.

The components of a modern Russian stove include a water heating tank and a cooking slab. Furthermore, the subcuropus is heated in this structure, which speeds up the stove’s temperature-raising process and causes the room to warm up more quickly.

This structure’s multiple departments mean that in the summer, you can cook with just the hob rather than having to heat the entire space. By doing this, fuel is saved and the house maintains a typical microclimate. All departments warm up in the furnace during the winter, which helps to heat the room as a whole as well as the water, slabs, and oven.

In order to assemble a Russian stove by hand, some preliminary work must be done, beginning with location selection.

How to choose a place for the furnace?

Making a decision regarding the location of the Russian stove installation is crucial. Make sure there is roughly 20 centimeters between the furnace’s walls and the house if it is situated in a wooden room. The best course of action for ensuring safety when protecting wooden walls is to use non-combustible materials like asbestos plates. The opening created will enable the furnace’s walls to be revised, which happens prior to the start of the heating season.

The furnace is covered in brickwork with a minimum thickness of 20 cm if it is placed in the space between two rooms. Create an asbestos sheet gasket between the wooden wall and the masonry.

Stove laying tools

The following equipment will be required for the furnace installation, regardless of the model chosen:

• Torok or Kelm. Used for applying the solution to bricks, and also with the help of them are masonry from an excess mixture protruding between the seams;
• Hammer-pick. Used to flush and split bricks, because in the process of laying bricks It may be necessary to fit individual elements;
• Expanding. This tool is used only when the furnace is not decorated with decorative tiles and therefore it should look flawless;
• building level. It is used at any stage of construction. Using it, the evenness of the masonry of the brick row is checked;
• plumb. Used to measure the verticality of the wall;
• Okryadovka. Extremely useful device. With its help, the verticality of the masonry is retained, observing equal thickness of horizontal seams;
• Rule. Apply it once to level the surface of the foundation;
• a blade with which a solution is stirred;
• container for the solution;
• Measured bar for measuring the width of the seams.

Stove masonry

The following can be used as a furnace material:

• ball and refractory material;
• clay and sand for the mixture;
• soft wire;
• grate;
• gate;
• asbestos cord;
• Doors.

Masonry of the Russian furnace

If the Russian stove drawing calls for creating a foundation, it should be done carefully, checking horizontally with a level.

Following the foundation’s creation, construction on the Russian furnace itself starts. It will aid the drawing to lay the masonry. Following the proper sampling procedure for the Russian furnace is crucial.

Masonry is entirely sealed to ensure the safety of this design. You cannot use cracked bricks for this reason. Typically, the seams that separate rows are between 5 and 8 mm thick. It is not a good idea to coat the stove’s interior walls with clay for tightness. As a result, the soot starts to delay and its thermal conductivity decreases.

Soak the ceramic brick beforehand to prevent it from absorbing water from the mixture after it is laid. Brick and solution start to dry simultaneously after soaking. ensuring adequate wall tightness.

One or two bricks are typically used to lay out exterior walls, but only half a brick is used for interior walls. The stove will warm up considerably faster if the interior walls are constructed from a single brick because they will be thicker. will also burn through a lot of fuel.

Russian stove: order

In this instance, the design scheme is very helpful if the Russian stove is assembled by hand. Every row is arranged dry.

First row. It needs to be flawless because only then will the entire structure’s correct orientation, accuracy, and evenness depend on it. Before the masonry is completed, mark the precise location of the furnace’s exterior walls with a long ruler, a corner, and chalk. Place the outer wall’s bricks on the drawn surface from the beginning. and fill the interior space between them after that.

Second row. Start installing the stove wall and set up the internal cleaning channels.

Third line. Install doors in the food and blowing chambers. A steel wire can be used to secure the doors by screwing it into the cast-iron doors’ ears. The ends are concealed by the brick-to-brick joints.

Fourth row. The artistic channel inside the structure is formed by the overlapping masonry on top of the inner channels.

Fifth row. A grate is installed for a large fuel, and inside Chamotis brick is used in the layout of the furnace. divided in half. Install the small fuel’s door above the score channel as well.

The sixth row. Set up a water heater tank.

Seventh row. The door is installed on a large furnace, and a grate is placed in the small fuel. Yes, A steel strip that is positioned in the seam and fastened to the walls with unique hooks at each end should be used to pull out the wall. Without using a solution, the masonry of a large firebox’s back wall is completed.

Rows eight and nine. Place the small furnace’s door in place and secure it while you keep the furnace’s internal channels closed.

Tenth row. Complete the crucible’s bottom masonry work and join the small and large furnace arches. The channel openings in the back of the design, which control the flow of heated air, ought to be left open and directed toward the hob. Additionally, you ought to block the water heater tank.

Eleventh position. Position a 50×50 mm metal corner above a large and small firebox on the masonry’s edge. This will serve as the hob’s sturdy foundation. A grate is placed over the open space behind the plate, which is a sizable firebox that is not fixed.

Rows 12 and 13. A horizontally positioned valve that will act as a hob damper is mounted on the left side of the slab. On the left side of the valve is where the chimney’s bottom is formed.

The fourteenth row. Make the chimney’s entrance necessary. When the hob shifts, it will open. Additionally, the crucible’s walls are taken down to create a hole for the damper.

Fifteenth row. The hob gets blocked as the masonry starts to narrow. Start taking out the chimney pipe.

Sixteenth row. This row is laid out exactly like the previous one. After that, metal strips are used to secure the side walls. possessing stoppers and external displays of the walls.

Seventeenth row. Place a metal strip against the screed on the back wall of the furnace. Maintain the hob’s collection and complete the chimney’s masonry. Above the hob niche, a metal corner and strip are placed; these will serve as the foundation for the brick laying that will create the ceiling above the plate.

The eighteenth row. Above the crucible is a template that is installed. On it is arranged a set of hobs in the shape of a dome. On the end, bricks are installed. Bricks are arranged in a wide strip and on a metal corner.

19th row. Fortifying the wall above the entrance with a metal strip on the hob. To create a space for backfill, a circular wall is built close to the crucibles’ arch.

The twentieth row. Sand is carefully compacted and poured into the educated area. This guarantees that the crucible’s heat capacity will rise.

The twenty-first row. Masonry covers the sand-covered surface and the walls.

Row 22. After the space starts to close, install a metal component with a circular hole. This will retain heat by rerouting smoke.

Row 23. Close the door to allow for easy access to the chimney for cleaning.

24th row. Traction in the crucible and furnaces can be adjusted with the aid of a valve that is made on the gap.

Rows 25 and 26. The area above the valve is further covered thanks to the masonry.

Rows 27–29. The chimney is connected to the gap.

After that, place a chimney pipe at the level, and they will start to form a cut. In this instance, the masonry is done over a cement solution.

They install a chimney via the attic, take it out to the roof, and waterproof the pipe to seal the spaces between it and the roofing material.

This marks the conclusion of the Russian stove’s hand-built masonry.

The contemporary version of the Russian stove differs from the conventional furnace. Making it with your own hands is simple. if you make use of plans and drawings. People can be delighted by a well-designed layout for a long time.

Vasily Konstantinovich Petrovsky

Building a Russian furnace with your own hands: theory and practice

Russian stove in the house: advantages and disadvantages

The Russian stove is a large appliance primarily used for cooking and room heating. Furthermore, it can have a fireplace, hob, or lounger that they use to warm up in the winter. Prior to implementing such a design in your home, you must thoroughly comprehend all of the subtleties involved, as well as assess the scope and features of the impending work. We will attempt to enumerate the benefits and drawbacks of the traditional Russian furnace below.

The Russian furnace’s traditional design

The benefits of the furnace are included in the following parameters:

• Durability.
• Fire safety.
• Heat capacity (slow cooling).
• Cooking without contact with fire.
• A relatively low cost.

Among the drawbacks are:

• Relatively low efficiency (no more than 30%).
• Non -economical fuel consumption.
• Uneven heating of the room (the difference between the temperature of the upper part of the room and the lower can reach 20 ° C).
• Uneven combustion of fuel (near the mouth, fuel burns much faster due to excess oxygen).
• The impossibility of observing food in the process of cooking.

Food dishes are set up close to the open fire on hot coals.

In the realm of heating and insulation for homes, the Russian stove stands out as a time-tested marvel of efficiency and warmth. Its design scheme is a testament to ingenuity, combining elements of heating, cooking, and even drying clothes all within a single structure. With its thick masonry walls and cleverly crafted flue system, the Russian stove maximizes heat retention while minimizing fuel consumption, making it an environmentally friendly and cost-effective option for heating homes in cold climates. Its simplicity in design belies its effectiveness, as it efficiently distributes heat evenly throughout a space, ensuring cozy comfort during the coldest winter nights. Whether used for cooking a hearty meal or simply as a focal point for gathering family and friends, the Russian stove embodies a traditional approach to heating that continues to resonate with modern homeowners seeking both practicality and charm in their living spaces.

Device and principle of operation of the structure, diagram

The Russian furnace has undergone numerous modifications over the years; they varied in size, shape, and apparatus. It was frequently impossible to find two identical designs in a single village because each had a distinct feature of its own. Russian stoves can currently be categorized based on three primary characteristics:

• In size – small, medium and large.
• In terms of functionality – classic and advanced (the furnace can be equipped with a fireplace, a hob, an oven, a bunk lounger).
• In the form of the arch – dome, barrel -shaped, and three -central.

The figure depicts the traditional Russian stove’s mechanism schematically. You can comprehend the general idea behind how it operates based on the functions of each component.

The Russian furnace’s primary components are shown in the diagram.

The main element of the Russian furnace is a crucible, which is a furnace. The crucible consists of a vault from above and feed from below. Directly on the under the under the lake and put dishes with food for cooking. The opening in the crucible is called a mouth, and the opening in the front wall of the furnace is called the Six window. These openings form a space called a six, in it prepared hot food does not cool for a long time. First, a gap in which smoke is gathering in the sixth, the gyilo is located over the gap, overlapped by a bit. Vyshka limits cold air from the street to the oven. The valve overlap the gap, thereby adjusting the thrust in the chimney during the furnace, after the end of the furnace it is completely closed so that the heat does not go into the pipe. There is a cold stove (undergone) under the pole, which is used to store various kitchen utensils. And the space in the lower part of the furnace under the firebox is called a support, in it they usually store firewood for the subsequent firebox.

The furnace works on the following principle: firewood is placed in one or two locations in dense horizontal rows. As firewood ignites and heats the stove to a high temperature, oxygen for combustion passes through the lower portion of the mouth. The byproducts of combustion first gather beneath the vault, then pass through the upper portion of the mouth, entering Heilo first, and finally entering the chimney.

Preparation for construction

The choice of brick

The materials that were used to build the furnace had to meet the fire regulations. Because of this, different materials are employed for each of the individual elements shown in the table:

A solution consisting of lime and cement or lime and sand is applied to a chimney.

The solutions can be mixed on their own or with pre-made, certified mixtures that are currently available in a wide variety on the market. For the layperson, the benefit of using ready-made mixtures is that they adhere to manufacturing technologies and proportions while producing a solution that meets the necessary requirements.

By selecting and utilizing the appropriate materials, the furnace’s design will: (1) meet fire regulations, which is crucial for a home; and (2) guarantee that the structure as a whole has enough strength and stability.

You should closely inspect the materials you purchase to ensure their quality. The brick should be precisely the right size geometrically, have a smooth surface, and be free of unnecessary inclusions. For the red, plastic, and impurity-free solution, clay is the best option. The clay is soaked in water and then wiped through a tiny metal mesh screen before being combined with the solution. It is necessary to utilize fine-grained sand, with particles no larger than 1.5 mm.

Necessary tools

Prior to turning on the furnace, the following equipment needs to be ready:

1. Ruler.
2. Construction pencil.
3. Landmark (Kelma).
4. Pick.
5. Rubber kiyanka.
6. Building level.
7. Plumb.
8. Bulgarian.
9. Containers for the solution.
10. Construction mixer, if the solution is kneaded independently.
11. Extending if further furnace is not supposed to.

Choosing a place for a future project

When designing the building, it is a good idea to plan for the installation of a Russian furnace. The following considerations are given priority when deciding where to put something in the house:

• Foundation. Consider the possibility of building a separate foundation or the use of the existing one, which is able to withstand additional load from the furnace. For the construction of the foundation, ready -made concrete foundation blocks are used or a reinforced concrete monolithic slab is poured. Between the main foundation of the building and the foundation of the furnace leave small intervals, which are subsequently poured with sand. The base is not brought to the zero floor level to a height of two bricks, while a layer of waterproofing is laid on the first row of brick.
• Free passage of ceilings and coatings. It is important that the supporting structures (beams, ridge beams, rafter legs, etc.) were not dismantled or damaged during the work. Failure to comply with this condition can lead to an emergency state of the building and an increase in the total cost of building a furnace due to additional work on the construction of additional structures.
• Convenience of location. The stove itself and the chimney can significantly affect the ergonomics of the room. Therefore, you need to carefully work out the placement of the entire structure relative to windows, doors and furniture for ease of use. If the stove is the main source of heating, then they try to place it in the center of the building, and if it is also supposed to be cooking, it is necessary to provide it with the neighborhood with the kitchen.
• Fire distances to combustible structures. This factor should pay close attention, t. To. Fire safety in the house should be organized at the highest level.

The following precautions ought to be taken in order to stop the fire and the walls close to the furnace:

1. In front of the window is a six to the floor, if it has a combustible coating, a metal sheet is nailed with a size of 700×500 mm.
2. The distance between the stove and the burned wall or partition is limited by the distance equal to the height of the furnace. Thus, if the height of the structure is 1.2 m, then the nearby combustible wall should be removed from it by at least 1.2 m. In addition, the wall or partition should be protected from fire with thermo -insulating materials (brick, plaster, asbesto -imperial slabs, etc.).
3. The distance from the six window to the opposing wall should be at least 125 cm.
4. Metal and reinforced concrete beams passing near the chimney should be at a distance of at least 130 mm from its inner surface.
5. Wooden beams passing near the chimney should be at a distance of at least 13 mm from its outer surface.

Step -by -step instructions for the construction of a brick unit with your own hands: from masonry to chimney

If you decide to construct a Russian stove by hand, you must use precise drawings that include a description of every modification. Make sure you have the required tools and materials ready before you begin. Controlling the material’s temperature is essential if the work is done during the colder months; it shouldn’t go above 5 °C.

The figure displays disable schemes (32 rows) for building a traditional Russian stove with a lounger.

We begin constructing a stove in phases in accordance with sketch schemes:

1. On the foundation we put two rows of bricks with an intermediate layer of waterproofing material.

Clay brick is pre -moistened with water. The first row starts from the level of clean sex. It is laid out with whole bricks, providing a ligation with a second side with the help of three -due bricks in the corners. Three pieces of such bricks are laid in each corner of the first row. The thickness of the masonry joints in both directions should not exceed 5 mm, the solution is distributed over the entire surface of the brick. It is very important to observe the horizontal masonry, checking it by the construction level row per row.

The second row is laid out with whole bricks, leaving the gap for the back of the. If the subsequent finish of the furnace is not supposed, then the seams are being embroidered at the same time and the brick is cleaned of the solution with a damp cloth. Starting from the second row, the verticality of surfaces and angles is checked with a plumb line. Using the extension, the masonry acquires a neat appearance

Between the third and fourth series, the dressing is provided in the corners, the fourth row is laid out completely whole bricks. The extreme bricks are rubbed to the opening of the vaulting of the Suggest.

From the fifth row, they begin to lay out according to a pre -prepared wooden formwork of the Summary. The seams of the vault from one heel to another should be tied, the bricks should be tightly pressed to each other, almost imprisoned. In the eighth row, the last (closing) row of a set of worn bricks is laid out.

The walls of the furnace are laid out in one brick with dressing to a tenth row, it also provides a platform for the subcuture. The space above the vault of the wraps is poured to the full height of the walls with sand or broken glass so that the furnace gives a larger heat. Sand use river washed

The eleventh row is laid out similarly to the previous ones, it serves as a coating for a weight.

In the twelfth row is laid out under. It is laid out with refractory bricks without a solution, the gaps are then filled with sand. A hole for the coals is provided on the left side. The use of refractory bricks

Then the masonry of the crucible begins, all parts of which are laid out of refractory brick. Seams for refractory bricks do no more than 3 mm. First, bricks put on the rib along the inner contour of the crucible. The walls of the crucible are recommended to be done in 3/4 bricks with a dressing. For the strength of the masonry, the bricks, which are located in the two front corners, are twisted at an angle of 45 °. A wooden formwork is inserted between these corners.

From the sixteenth row, they begin to lay out the arch of the crucible, the space between the vault and the walls is filled with sand. The masonry of the arch begins with the edges, moving to the middle. To check the masonry rows use a twine, which is fixed on the formwork at the central point of the arch. Using wooden formwork when laying the arch

Next, in the form of an arch, lay out a six window.

When laying the twentieth row, the walls of the furnace are erected, reducing the space above the six.

The twenty -fifth row is laid similarly to the tenth with the dressing of the seams, while the space above the pole is reduced once again, forming a gap.

In the twenty -second row, the gap is reduced even more and the channel of the samovar is laid.

In the twenty -third row, there is a place for accumulation of soot and an opening for cleaning.

From the twenty -fourth row, Perevrubier begins to block, providing for the opening for a bit. Opposite the opening, a door is installed through which you can open and close. Installed metal vowel

In the twenty -ninth row, the channel of the samovar is connected to the gap.

In the thirty -second row, a whole brick is completely blocked, leaving one hole that is covered with a gate. After the valve is installed, they proceed to laying the chimney. Wooden formwork is removed 5-6 days after the solution gains the necessary strength. The valve is designed to regulate the degree of combustion of fuel in the furnace

The right chimney

The traditional Russian furnace in most cases is equipped with a direct chimney through which combustion products go out into the street directly. The optimal section of the chimney for the Russian furnace is 260 × 260 mm. The height of the chimney is determined depending on its distance to the skate horizontally: The distance of the chimney from the skateThe chimney must ensure sufficient stability, t. To. In addition to internal processes (overheating, condensation, freezing, thawing), external factors (wind, snow, foundation sediment) also affect it. Therefore, it is important at the design stage to take into account all the nuances and the possibility of strengthening the structure. Requirements that must be taken into account when installing the chimney:

• The density of the walls of the chimney and the chimney should prevent the possibility of breaking smoke and carbon monoxide into the room, so the masonry seams are performed efficiently, without voids and holes. The thickness of the seams should not exceed 10 mm.
• The surface of the chimney must be wiped with a solution and white;
• The upper part of the chimney located above the roof is plastered with a cement mortar to protect against precipitation.
• A sparkle made of metal mesh is installed on the chimney located above the combustible roof.

In places where the chimney is in contact with the overlap, the chimney expands. This expansion of brickwork is called cutting. The size of the cutting is expressed in the distance from the inner surface of the chimney to the ceiling and depends on the protection of the overlap from the fire. Thus, if the design is not protected from fire, then the cutting is 50 cm, and with a protected structure – 38 cm. The cutting should be independent of the ceiling, so its design is not based directly on it. This is due to the fact that the precipitation of the furnace can be different from the precipitation of the entire building, as a result of which there may be a danger of damage to the cutting and the overlap itself. The height of the cutting is assigned more than the thickness of the floor by about 10-15 cm on top and from the bottom of it. The material of the ceiling and the floor near the cutting is brought only to it, and the floor is made directly above it from non -combustible materials, such as stone, ceramic tiles or concrete.

Finishing: options, photos

Since the furnace is a very large piece of equipment and will naturally draw attention to itself, special attention should be given to its finish. It is best to aim for all-around surface smoothness and the ability to keep them clean when decorating a furnace. Prior to the autonomous execution of the finishing work, it is imperative to assess the scope and intricacy of the project, in addition to calculating the expenses associated with various decorating techniques. The furnace’s surface needs to be cleared of debris and dust before any finishing work is done.

There are many different finishing techniques. Here are some of the most popular and widely used ones that don’t require specialized training:

• Plaster. The plaster gives the furnace a neat appearance, it allows you to correct the defects made during laying, and also fills the pantered seams. A solution of plaster is selected depending on the required quality of the finish, purpose and humidity of the room. Basically use clay -sand solution, and if necessary, lime, alabaster or cement are added to it. The thickness of the hint of plaster is recommended not to exceed more than 1 cm.
• Wall mop with subsequent laying of masonry joints. Work is carried out to clean the walls of the furnace from the solution that came out of the seams, more complete filling the seams and giving them the right type. When performing work, it is very important to clean the bricks of the solution in a damp cloth in a timely manner until it froze.
• Stove -stove. Recently, this method has gained great popularity. Before gluing the stone on the furnace, it should first be laid out on a horizontal surface in order to perfectly choose the size and color, after which the stone is transferred to the walls according to the approved plan. Ready heat -resistant mastics are used to masonry natural stone.
• Facing with tiles. This method is very laborious and responsible. The facing of the furnace must be carried out in parallel with the performance of brickwork row per row, and first lay out the first row of tiles, and then a row of brickwork. With the main masonry, tiles should be tied with wire, and among themselves – brackets and pins. Tiles put on a clay solution, which is laid in Rumps (special ledges of tiles from the back). Depending on the desired species, the tiles can be located one under another or "seaming". Before the installation of tiles, they are laid out on a horizontal surface to choose an ornament and make a bag for the desired dimensions. Between the tiles horizontally, seams 1.5 mm thick are provided, which are filled with a gypsum solution. Vertical seams are carried out in attachment. When installing tiles, it is necessary to strictly observe horizontal, verticality, plot of planes and angles.

Applying paint to the furnace. Using real stone to decorate the furnace Using plaster and lime to create an artistic finish, the stove’s tiles are carefully folded from bricks with embossed seams.

The furnace’s surfaces can be covered with lime or painted after being plastered. Paints ought to be based on casein or water. Paint the stove and give it a distinctive and original design with the aid of multicolored paints.

Special heat-resistant paints or varnishes are applied to the furnace’s metal components.

We put the stove into operation: drying and trial furnace

Shavings, chips, and small logs are used to dry the furnace out. At first, no more than 30% of the typical fuel volume is laid; after that, the volume is progressively increased. The size of the furnace and the level of moisture in the brickwork determine how long it will take to dry. When the furnace is properly dried, there should be no trace of raw spots on the exterior and no condensation on the metal components. Keep the furnace damper and gap open during the drying process. When drying, the stove surfaces should be around 50 °C in temperature.

A trial furnace is operated after the furnace has been dried out. Check the density and thrust of the valve closures beforehand.

The following is the order in which the first stove is made:

1. With an open valve, laid on dry firewood in very dense rows, filling the crucible as much as possible. The mouth of the mouth when trapping is tightly closed.
2. Subsequent layouts of firewood are made after burning the first laying to coal. Their volume is already a third less than the first laying.
3. The degree of combustion in the furnace should be adjusted by the valve.
4. After burning, all firewood wait until all the coals are burned out. You can close the pipe valve only after the fuel is completely burned out. If there are several unsuccessful coals, it is better to extinguish them on their own so that the heat does not go away.
5. To prevent cracking, the furnace should not be overheated, its temperature should not exceed 90 ° C.

Brill furnace

The furnace’s interior surfaces need to be cleared of soot and ash with a poker before the season begins. Because the chimneys are contaminated, cleanings occur more frequently. Soot practically never forms when the stove is operated properly and with the correct device, but it is still advised to heat the furnace on occasion with alder or aspen firewood to avoid the formation of soot.

With a rich history spanning centuries, the Russian stove is a marvel of traditional heating and insulation design. Because of its clever design, which combines cooking and heating functions, it is a mainstay in many Russian homes. For individuals looking for warmth and comfort during the chilly winter months, the Russian stove has many benefits, including its durable construction and economical fuel usage.

The Russian stove’s capacity to hold heat long after the fire has gone out is one of its main advantages. This is because of the thick masonry construction, which evenly distributes heat indoors by absorbing it and releasing it gradually. This not only lessens the requirement for frequent refueling but also contributes to the eventual reduction of heating expenses.

Additionally, the Russian stove’s design makes it possible to burn wood or other fuels efficiently, increasing heat output while reducing emissions. This makes it a green choice for home heating, especially in areas where access to other energy sources may be restricted. To further increase the stove’s usefulness and worth, its cooking surface also offers a useful way to prepare meals.

The Russian stove’s classic design has endured, but new developments have also increased its accessibility and allowed it to fit more comfortably in modern homes. Homeowners can now select from a wide range of styles and materials to fit their spatial needs and aesthetic tastes. For many generations to come, the Russian stove will provide dependable and effective heating options, whether it’s a large focal point for a roomy house or a smaller model for a tiny apartment.

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