Russian stove a heat with a subcankment: the principle of work and masonry features

Few things compare to the warm, classic charm of a Russian stove with a subcankment for insulation and heating. For centuries, people in Russia and other cold climates have warmed their homes with this antiquated heating technique during the bitterly cold winters. However, how does a Russian stove with a subcankment operate and what is its exact nature?

A Russian stove with a subcankment is essentially a kind of masonry heater made to effectively generate and hold heat. This stove uses radiant heat, as opposed to forced air or radiators found in many modern heating systems, to heat the entire living area evenly. A key component of this process is the subcankment, or foundation, which serves as a heat reservoir that absorbs heat and releases it gradually.

A Russian stove with a subcankment is distinguished by its elaborate masonry construction. These stoves are designed to withstand high temperatures and continuous use. They are constructed from fire-resistant materials like clay, bricks, and occasionally even ceramic tiles. A firebox, a combustion chamber, a chimney, and of course the subcankment itself are usually included in the design.

However, how does everything work together to produce effective heating? The combustion chamber and flue channels are heated at the start of the procedure by starting a fire in the firebox. The subcankment and the surrounding masonry receive heat from the hot gases as they move through the channels. Long after the fire has subsided, the heat is then slowly released into the living area by this thermal mass, which has absorbed and stored the heat.

The capacity of a Russian stove with a subcankment to sustain a comfortable temperature while using the least amount of fuel is what distinguishes it from other heating techniques. With just one firing, it can maintain a room’s warmth for several hours due to its reliance on radiant heat and thermal mass instead of continuous burning. In addition to saving energy, this produces a comfortable, ambient atmosphere that is difficult to duplicate with contemporary heating systems.

The history of the appearance

The need for an efficient, all-purpose heat-intensive furnace that could be used for cooking and household purposes arose with the end of the Civil War and the start of industrialization.

Mass housing had to be built in order to accommodate the establishment of new industries and plants, but since gas and electricity were still relatively new, everyone had to rely on their stoves for heat and food.

Even with all the advantages of the "Swedes," they were unable to provide enough heat or universality, and Russian stoves (RP) that required a lot of heat were incredibly inefficient.

Professor Vladimir Efimovich Grum-Grzhimailo, a Soviet metallurgist, created the theory of free movement of gases (SDG), which served as the foundation for a new class of furnaces known as "caps." His stove designs worked well for heating compact one-room apartments, but they were not suitable for use in private homes.

Joseph Samuilovich Podgorodnikov, a student at E. Grum-Grzhimaylo, combined the idea of SDG with a Russian furnace’s firebox, which his teacher claimed to be the perfect burning chamber that allows for the most complete combustion of carbon.

Its advancements led to the creation of the "Russian Heating" furnace family. The "warmths," who were spared the negative aspects of the RP, were able to effectively compete with the "Swedes," who were becoming more and more well-liked.

For a Soviet worker who puts all of his energy into his work, the ability to use a firebox once a day—albeit with a slightly larger flow of firewood—made them the perfect heating devices.

Subsequently, Igor Viktorovich Kuznetsov tackled the task of updating the "warmth" and created an entire range of furnaces branded with this term. He removed the primary flaw. The "peasant warmths" of the podgorodnik refer to the inadequate temperature of the chimney’s gases, which is the reason the furnace started to collapse after five to ten years of operation.

Apart from Kuznetsov, numerous contemporary stovers are experimenting with the "peasant warmth" of the podgorodnik, as there is still much room for improvement in terms of modernization.

Principle of operation

It is vital to take into account the following key components in order to comprehend how Podgorodnikov’s "warmth" functions:

1. Top (subclakes).
2. Hob.
3. Camer for gravity of heat (chamber of lower heating).
4. Smoke channel system.

The firebox has a grate and can burn any kind of solid fuel, including coal and firewood. Because it is connected to a sizable cross-sectional channel and is situated beneath the feed chamber, smoke and flame from the firebox enter the hob without cooling down or slowing down.

She starts by warming the hob’s walls and then assumes the function of the burning chamber, where the majority of the free carbon burns off and releases more heat. The temperature of the chimney that passes through the hob is between 450 and 600 degrees by the middle of the furnace.

There are two ways smoke can escape from the hobs:

• through the mouth, as in an ordinary Russian furnace;
• through the holes of the presentation into the chamber of the lower heating.

After entering the heating chamber, smoke gases are cooled to a temperature of 250–300 degrees, reaching a temperature of 200–250 degrees at the chimney’s entrance and 150–200 degrees at its exit. Bricks and masonry are spared destruction because of the high temperature, which causes the condensate that collects in the chimney to dry out at the end of the furnace.

It stores a lot more heat than the Swede because of its large mass of "warmths" and its relatively small outer surface area. However, it limits the size of the heated area by reducing heat transfer and lengthening the heating time from one fireplace to one and a half days.

The smoke gases that pass through the mouth enter the chimney through the shield’s nearly straight channel in the same manner as they did in the RP. The same gases that descend warm the furnace’s body and lower camera before entering the shield and exiting through the side channel.

Such a stove is first drowned in the first mode, which releases smoke through the mouth, in the summer or after a prolonged period of inactivity. As the chimney heats up, the smoke gases are progressively directed to the lower chamber.

The Podgorodnik created a number of "warmth" variations, some of which he fitted with cast-iron hobs, but they all operated on the same idea.

Since those who improved these furnaces after him did so on the basis of Joseph Samuilovich’s principle, the "warmths" are a singular endeavor that are truly universal and cannot be entirely ascribed to any one class.

Arguments about what kind of smoke gas movement principle can be linked to "warmths" are frequently heard in thematic forums. These stoves are traditional fire stoves where the first chamber is heated by the flame. However, they can also be attributed to the channel and cap at the same time because the second camera is a cap with channels (cuts).

Comparison with other stoves

The following are "warmths’" primary benefits:

• universality;
• High heat capacity.

We propose evaluating the stoves according to the following criteria:

• assignment (the more functions the heating device performs, the higher the score);
• the consumption of firewood per day when working in the maximum power of kg;
• the area of the heated room in a well -insulated house M 2 with the maximum number of firewood, but without a re -traffic;
• geometric dimensions (length, width, height in cm);
• the time during which the temperature of the outer surface is reduced by 20 degrees within 40-60 degrees, hours.

Here is a table in which We compare the main parameters stoves:

Type of the furnace	Appointment	Firewood consumption per day kg	The area of the room m2	Size see	Cooling time 20 degrees, hours
"Heat" 5×7 bricks	Heating, cooking in RP mode, if the “heat” with the hob that is the usual cooking, heating the berth (if the stove is equipped with fits)	40 cold furnace, 30 protected	50	182x130x200	36
Russian without a flood and lower heating	Ineffective heating, cooking in the crucible, heating the bed	40 cold furnace, 30 protected	25	220x150x200	36
Russian with a subtop and lower heating	Heating, cooking in RP mode, if the “heat” with the hob that is the usual cooking, heating the berth (if the stove is equipped with fits)	40 cold furnace, 30 protected	40	220x150x200	36
"Swede" 8×4 bricks without a stove	Heating	25	60	200x100x200	12–18
"Swede" 8×4 brick with a stove	Heating and cooking on the stove	thirty	60	200x100x200	12–16
OIK 20 (Kuznetsova stoves)	Heating	20	45	100x75x200	12–16

This article explores the wonder of traditional Russian stoves, which provide homes in colder climates with both heating and insulation. We examine its clever construction and design, which makes use of a subcankment to increase its effectiveness. The Russian stove, in contrast to contemporary heating systems, works on a straightforward but efficient principle by utilizing the ability of materials like brick and clay to retain heat. We’ll reveal the salient characteristics of its masonry, emphasizing the painstaking craftsmanship needed to assemble it. Homeowners can acquire knowledge about cost-effective and environmentally friendly ways to keep their houses warm throughout the cold winter months by learning how this time-tested heating technique operates.

How the "heat" differs from the Russian stove with a subcankment?

There is a significant distinction between these stoves even though they are essentially similar because the traditional Russian model lacks a lower heating element. Since firewood was burned in the crucible and subclakes were only a complement, even the RP with the lower heating differed from the "warmths." Additionally, burning firewood in the crucible is a secondary regime that is hardly ever used.

Although it only burns smoke, the hob operates on the same principle as the RP maid. The "warm-up" subcutons are optimized to highlight such a level of heat, which is guaranteed to be enough for warming up both cameras and chimney, bringing it closer to the same "Swedes." With all of this, you can draw attention to the "warmth" of a different class of furnaces.

Project development

Podgorodnikov discovered a major flaw in the initial "peasant heat" system while it was in use: the firewood did not match the furnace body, making it impossible to heat the walls without assistance.

When the wall reached its end, it was not hot enough, which caused the house’s heating efficiency to drop and the chimney to quickly collapse from heavy condensate settlement and the inability to dry it out with too-cold smoke.

Although the stove is heated more intensely due to the increased firewood, the masonry in the furnace area eventually collapses after three to five seasons.

This problem was partially resolved by reinforcement, so after ten to twenty years, the masonry was destroyed and a furnace was needed.

As a result, two solutions to the issue were suggested:

• installation of a heat insulator between the lining and the walls of the furnace body;
• Redistribution of smoke flows.

There were no typical heat insulators in place when the first "warmth" appeared, but materials based on kaolin and basalt are now accessible. In order to redistribute the flows, the Podgorodnik suggested removing a brick from the furnace’s back wall, creating a burden inside the heat capture chamber.

In addition to adding a burden to the second camera, Kuznetsov installed a discharged grate at the firebox exit, which caused more gases to be directed toward the heat capture chamber in order to redistribute the flows. For the same reason, Batsulin installed a regular grate, which significantly slowed down gas flow and made the hob’s gas burning worse.

Options for execution

The following are the most chosen choices for this furnace:

1. With a hob.
2. With a tank for heating water.
3. With an additional oven.
4. With a side lounger.

You can redistribute the gases more effectively with the hob option, but the gases burn worse because of the plate’s cooling effect. The plate radiates heat very strongly, causing the gases passing through it to lose temperature. One benefit of using the hob for "warmths" is that you can cook food without heating the other stove elements, which is why there’s an extra chimney channel.

The stove still had a feces-filled water heating tank, but the system’s effectiveness was limited because the heat cap’s capacity was found there, where gas temperatures hardly ever went above 200 degrees, and the tank’s surface area was tiny.

Flue gas flow redistribution, particularly if done Kuznetsov-style—that is, without deterioration—increases the water heater’s productivity; therefore, it should only be utilized in conjunction with a heat accumulator and a steam discharge valve.

For furnaces that burn coal, an extra oven is helpful because coal causes an unpleasant smell to arise inside the hob. However, the wood-fired oven will still be helpful even without firewood if you need to cook a variety of foods, like baked meat and apple pie.

In actuality, the lateral bed doubles the amount of heat consumption in the second chamber, so concurrently:

• increase in the power of the furnace;
• installation of more effective thermal protection;
• Redistribution of flowering flows.

However, a lieutenant of this kind can serve as a quick spot to sleep because elderly people with limited mobility are not always able to climb sunbeds; this kind of issue does not arise with lateral sunbeds. Furthermore, adding a bed boosts the furnace’s overall heat transfer, enabling the "warmth" to heat a larger home.

How to build a "warmth"?

In the event that you choose to install a stove of this type in your home, follow these steps:

• Determine the optimal configuration of "warmths";
• Determine the optimal dimensions;
• Study forums at which stoves of this type are discussing;
• Choose or create an order yourself;
• study the stove masonry and methods of its reinforcement;
• Prepare the base;
• if necessary, check the chimney;
• Provide the material;
• Fold the stove;
• Spend a trial furnace.

How to determine optimal sizes?

When selecting the ideal size, keep in mind that a larger oven will give off and be able to store more heat, but the firebox should highlight the heat the most. Theoretically, it is possible to construct a massive "warmth" that can heat a room as large as 100 m^, but in actuality, this will significantly exacerbate the heating device’s already challenging design.

Consequently, the ideal brick size is 5×7 (width, length), or 182×130 mm, which offers enough thermal energy to heat a 50 m 2 house.

Useful forums

Examine the forums where stoves of this kind are discussed, ordered, and variously photographed before you begin building.

These are the most well-liked forums among them:

1. www.forumhouse.ru.
2. forum.stovemaster.ru.
3. Mastergrad.Com.
4. Forumbani.ru.

Where to get the guesses?

Online retailers sell pre-made "warm-up" guns, but their quality is unknown as it is hard to get in touch with people who have been using one of these ovens in their homes for at least five years.

You can use the free guesses on Igor Kuznetsov’s website or locate them in the following books:

1. Two -colp furnaces. Podgorodnikov.
2. Indoor stoves. Podgorodnikov.
3. Fiery stoves. Grum-grzhimaylo.
4. Masonry of furnaces and fireplaces. Shepelev.

How to learn how to do and reinforce the stove masonry?

It is sufficient to read books and watch videos to gain a theoretical understanding of the processes involved in laying brick and reinforcing masonry; however, practice is necessary to "fill your hand," or gain experience, as in the case of adding multiple furnaces to simple structures.

You can get help with this from our articles:

1. How to fold a Russian stove.
2. DIY Kuznetsov bake.
3. How to choose a stove brick.
4. Brick furnace laying solution.

Why is the "warmth" it is necessary to reinforce?

Because they are correctly folded and used without re-tacks, most heating and heating-welding furnaces operate for extended periods of time without the need for reinforcement, avoiding the need for a single, tiny firewood lay.

In contrast to them, the "warm-up" firebox operates in a far harsher temperature range, which increases the influence of thermal expansion and, consequently, the strength of the masonry blow and the rate at which the pantry solution is crushed.

Instead of stopping the processes brought on by temperature expansion, reinforcement shields the exterior of the panting solution, preventing cracks from showing up.

Preparation of the base and hanging the pipe

Since "heat" is characterized by increased mass, just like any other RP with lower heating, it requires a much larger foundation than small "Swedes" or "Dutch."

You can find here comprehensive details on how to build furnace foundations and what factors need to be considered simultaneously.

In order to preserve the old chimney and install a "warmth" furnace in place of another one, the chimney must be hung—that is, supported firmly enough to support its weight.

Formation of the material

Once the order has been determined, determine how much of each building material is needed. Using the Sketchap program to carry out this task is very convenient as it allows you to quickly see how many bricks are needed and calculate how much solution is needed.

We advise taking all materials with a small margin (5–10%) because it’s possible that a marriage will encounter a batch of bricks or that you’ll need to apply a layer of solution that is thicker than intended.

Masonry

The "warmths"’ masonry is identical to that of any other heating or heating-welding furnace; plumb lines and levels are used to lay bricks on a ready-made or completed clay-sand solution.

The ideal seam thickness is 5 mm. Reinforcement should be applied in the hotter areas of a row and brick dressing should be ensured in adjacent rows.

If possible, place the furnace lining on a chamotum measure, strengthen the masonry, and make sure to divide the furnace’s body and lining with a layer of kaolin cotton wool or basalt cardboard. Install doors in any practical or economical manner, and use high bricks or doors to cover the treatment holes.

Design

We advise you to carefully read this article because the "warmth" is adorned using the same techniques as the Russian stove because its form is quite similar to the RP.

• various options for designing heating structures of this type;
• The advantages and disadvantages of each decoration option;
• Approximate cost of work for each type of design.

Trinent firebox

The last brick is laid, and the first (trial) furnace is started right away.

She only uses finely chopped firewood because her goal is to demonstrate rather than to warm the "warmth."

• traction;
• the movement of smoke in the furnace;
• Lack of emission or leakage of smoke in the room.

Open the door of the first firebox and start the hob shaft because, even though the chimney does not warm up, there is not enough traction to force smoke through the newly constructed heat selection chamber, which is a sliced cap.

Close the shutters and open the lower heating damper once the firewood has flared up. Next, progressively cover the hob’s shaft and door so that smoke is forced through the lower chamber by the emerging thrust. If the furnace is folded correctly, the stove will function smoke-free after ten to fifteen minutes of complete closure of the firebox, door, and hob shaft.

Assignment from the author

The author of this article has approximated the ordering of a Russian stove with a subcank. You can use it as a foundation to create a project that fits your needs.

Video on the topic of the article

We recommend watching this video to see how the built-in "warm" oven appears and what practical tasks it can complete:

Additionally, a thorough synopsis of stove masonry is provided in this video:

Principle of Work	Masonry Features
The Russian stove utilizes a subcanment, a cavity beneath the firebox, to enhance heat retention.	When constructing a Russian stove, special attention is given to the subcanment"s placement and size to ensure efficient heat distribution.

Accepting the Russian stove tradition with a subcankment yields a historically grounded but incredibly efficient modern method. This clever heating system creates a warm and sustainable way to heat homes by combining the effectiveness of a Russian stove with the insulation that a subcankment provides.

This heating method’s clever yet basic principle. The central component of the system is the Russian stove, which is renowned for its capacity to hold heat for long periods of time. Heat retention is increased by adding a subcankment, or layer of insulation underneath the stove, which guarantees that warmth is maintained throughout the house.

The careful design of the masonry in this system is one of its main characteristics. To guarantee optimum performance, each part—from the subcankment to the Russian stove itself—must be carefully constructed. It takes careful attention to detail during the masonry process to achieve effective heat retention and distribution.

Additionally, this system’s masonry features allow for customization to meet personal preferences and needs. Homeowners can customize the system to meet their unique needs, whether it’s resizing the Russian stove or optimizing the insulation of the subcankment.

Installing a Russian stove with a subcankment is a cultural legacy that has been conserved for many years, not just a sensible option for home heating. By adopting this conventional approach, homeowners support the preservation of a time-tested practice in addition to reaping the benefits of its efficiency.

In summary, a Russian stove combined with a subcankment provides a tasteful fusion of innovation and tradition for insulation and heating. This system offers an effective, adaptable, and culturally rich way to heat homes through careful masonry and careful design, guaranteeing sustainability and comfort for future generations.

Video on the topic

Russian stove heat 15, principle of work, review. Steper Konstantin Borzov.

Russian stove a warmth

Masonry of a Russian stove with a lounger and a submarine

A warmth with a stomach and a submarine. (Russian stove)

Detailed masonry of an improved Russian furnace 5 for 6.5 bricks (Teplushka Podgorodnikov)

Russian stove

7. Russian stove with a subcankment and heating shield

Masonry of the Russian stove Alexei Emshanov