Responsibilities for replacing risers in a privatized apartment

One important thing that homeowners must remember when it comes to maintaining a privatized apartment is that riser replacement is one of many duties. In multi-story buildings, raisers are essential to the operation of the plumbing and heating systems. To maintain the security and effectiveness of the apartment’s infrastructure, these parts may eventually need to be replaced as a result of rust, wear and tear, or other causes.

It can be difficult to determine who is in charge of replacing risers in a privatized apartment because it frequently depends on a number of variables, including the ownership structure, building codes, and agreements between tenants and property management. The onus of responsibility is often on the homeowner or homeowners’ association, but in order to prevent confusion or disagreements, this point must be made clear.

It is advisable for homeowners to keep a close eye on the state of the risers in their apartments. Potential problems can be indicated by leaks, low water pressure, odd noises, or obvious corrosion. It’s critical to act quickly to assess the situation and decide whether riser replacement is required if any of these symptoms are noticed.

In addition to guaranteeing that the apartment’s utilities operate properly, replacing risers also preserves the residents’ safety and wellbeing. If risers aren’t fixed, they can cause structural issues, water damage, and mold growth. Homeowners would therefore be best served by giving riser replacement and maintenance first priority.

Responsibility	Explanation
Homeowner	The homeowner is typically responsible for maintaining and repairing risers within their privatized apartment. This includes identifying issues, arranging for inspections, and covering the costs of necessary repairs.
Building Management/Owner	The building management or owner may have some responsibilities regarding the replacement of risers, especially if the issue affects multiple units or involves common areas. They may coordinate the work, ensure compliance with regulations, and handle any necessary permits or approvals.

How the heating riser works

Previously, heating risers were made in this way- the connection to the main in the basement and hot water goes from the bottom up sequentially through all radiators. Such a scheme developed a hand of steam heating, but in our country did not undergo changes and after the transition to heating water. Today there is a provision according to which, hot water should be supplied from top to bottom. That is, two pipes should take place in the apartment- one straight line to the top of the house and the second reverse, according to which water is actually supplied to radiators, but necessarily with personal discharge for each radiator. And on the radiators, or rather, they must be installed by the bypass. Unfortunately, we still have a lot of old buildings in our country, in which such a scheme is impossible and the only thing that they can make bona fide communal workers is simply changing the direction of the hot water movement. And then not always and not everywhere they go to it. So people have to live as before.

Based on your detailed description in your question, it appears that you already have such a system. And the only way this plan could be improved is if bypasses were installed in each apartment.

The first thing you need to decide on is replacing the risers in agreement with the management company or the housing office. Work in this relatively extinct quality, despite not being very difficult. As a result, it is preferable to replace it if possible independently, but if not, do so at all costs while experts are present or in charge.

There are various options for the material: modern plastic with solder can be used, or metal pipes connected by thread or welding. Plastic pipes that are properly chosen are even more dependable and long-lasting. and retains heat more effectively than metal.

Features of placement and numbering

It is required to review the technical conditions (TU) that were received by the management company and familiarize yourself with the regulatory documents, SNiP 3.05.01-85 and SNiP 3.05.01-84, if an independent riser replacement or installation is planned. It is advised to seek professional assistance if you lack experience and installation skills.

A heating riser is installed close to the exterior walls. The main pipe is located in the corner of an angular room. It is not acceptable to weld close to materials that can catch fire. A single-pipe system’s riser is positioned no closer than 15 centimeters from the window. The length of the eyeliner should be about 40 cm.

Maintaining the proper riser numbering (STO-1 and STO-2) is crucial when constructing a two-pipe system. The steel-2 is the opposite of the riser, which is stroke and travels from the boiler to the heat exchangers. Errors in the order and accuracy of the connection could result in the minimum system functioning incorrectly, potentially leading to an emergency.

One diameter should be used for both the heated room’s riser and the primary thermal pipeline. If not, there might be a variation in temperature, pressure, and pipe noise.

Starting a heating riser

The procedure to activate each heating riser in the apartment is always the same, regardless of how many there are:

• First, the design is checked under pressure;
• Next, water is launched into the batteries and the riser is checked for the absence of leaks (more detailed: “Heating launch – launch the system according to the rules”).

It is worthwhile to enlist assistance when conducting a design test. Furthermore, you should take a prior picture of every joint because even the smallest alterations will be hard to spot at first, but when compared to the original plan, identifying flaws won’t be tough (see also: "Individual heating in the apartment: for and against").

As a result, the pressure check is performed using the following algorithm:

1. A valve opens on the jumper, and its two analogues on the path to the radiator overlap. This allows you to remove the load from some thread, at the same time, completely experiencing the remaining.
2. The plugs are screwed or the dischargers located in the basement are overlapped.
3. The valve is opened on the replaced riser.
4. It is important to remember that if screw valves are installed, then it is necessary to open only the one that is mounted by the arrow from the rod to the dwellings. You will have to perform the discovery so because if you do it differently, you can tear out the valve.
5. After the water ceases to actively circulate in the area of the ajar valve, we can assume about the stabilization of pressure. After that, you can completely open both valves.
6. Next, you need to return to the apartment and slowly open the remaining two valves to avoid the consequences of the hydraulic jacket. After filling the radiator with water, you should look at all the joints for water leaks.

After completing the pressure procedure, you’ll need to steal the air from the radiator. To do this, follow these steps, just like you did in the previous instance:

• If the house has a lower outlet, then in the apartment the floor above should open the Maevsky crane located on the jumper between the risers. Having waited for the water current, do not immediately turn off the activity, since the air may not go out immediately and remain in the water by bubbles, so you should wait a bit.
• If the riser began to warm up, then we can safely say that the operation to include it is completed.

View an example in the video to learn how to replace the apartment’s heating riser:

Replacing radiators

The ideal heating radiators for an apartment: Standards and tests for the heating system’s working pressure classification

In addition to other factors:

• working temperature regime – 135 degrees;
• heat transfer of one section – 196 watts;
• The warranty period provided by the manufacturer is 25 years old.

The process management of replacing the apartment’s heating radiator The number of sections is determined by performing a straightforward calculation: One section needs to be installed in order to heat every two "squares" of the space.

However, in the event that an apartment owner desires a more precise outcome, the subsequent information is utilized:

• thermal power per cubic meter of the volume of the room is 40 watts;
• The presence of a window increases the need for heat consumption per 100 watts, and the doors leading to the street by 200 watts;
• If the room is angular or end, or the apartment is located on extreme floors, a coefficient of 1.2 – 1.3 is used;
• Depending on the region of the location of the house, the thermal power obtained during calculations is multiplied by 0.7 – 0.9 (warm climate) or 1.2 – 2.0 (cold climate).

A brief leadership guide on installing heating radiators in apartmentsThe process for calculating is as follows:

• the required thermal power – 4x5x2.7×40 = 2160 watts;
• The presence of a window adds 100 watts – 2160+100 = 2260 watts;
• The location on the ground floor is 2260×1.3 = 2938 watts;
• With a regional coefficient of 1.5, 2938×1 is obtained.5 = 4407;
• Since the heat transfer of the section 180 watts (4407: 180 = 24.48) needs 25 sections that can be divided into several batteries.

How to change the heating riser carrying out repair

How to replace the heating riser is a frequently asked question. The riser can be repaired on its own with relative ease and minimal materials. Despite the lack of an anti-corrosion coating, a galvanized steel pipe with good strength and resistance to corrosion will be required for the repair. Thread is required for pipe installation. This is because the layer of zinc that shields the inside of the pipe from outside influences is lost during welding.

Can be applied to stainless steel corrugated pipes for repair. Although it is not as strong as galvanized steel, it is far more convenient to install. The availability of fitting connections and good flexibility enable a smooth and easy installation. The majority of pipes that are made are capable of withstanding pressures of at least 15 atmospheres.

It is not advised to use metal-polymer or plastic pipes. The higher risk of hydraulic boards as a result of malfunctioning shut-off valves or the emergence of issues is one of the primary causes. Also read: "Heating plastic pipes: properties, the necessary diameter for hand-installation."

What pipes are made of

Heating system pipes must be able to withstand extreme heat and strong pressure fluctuations. These specifications satisfy a variety of material types:

• steel;
• copper;
• metal -plastic;
• polypropylene;
• Sewed polyethylene.

Every material has benefits and drawbacks of its own. Although the steel is strong and can withstand coolant temperatures of up to 95 degrees, its cost is high, it wears out quickly, and installation is difficult. Although copper is highly expensive, it lasts for many years and is very resistant to all harmful influences.

Modern heating systems use fewer and fewer metal pipes in their configuration. Metal, plastic, polypropylene, and polyethylene took their place. Because they differ in their high thermal conductivity and resistance to high temperatures, pressure, and corrosion, synthetic materials are excellent choices for hidden installations.

Polypropylene pipes have a tidy, attractive appearance.

Sewed polyethylene – a new promising material on Stroyrynka

Sewn-out products catch buyers’ attention in particular. This novel material allows you to install a heating system that is nearly indestructible.

He doesn’t fear pressure, corrosion, or extremely hot temperatures. Its pipes are light and thin, but they are also incredibly powerful.

Stitched polyethylene’s primary benefit is its high plasticity, which allows it to quickly regain its original shape and withstand heavy loads. This feature prevents the pipes from flowing where there are connections, which makes the material perfect for concealed installation. The expensive price of the material, connecting components, and installation tools is the only disadvantage.

How is a polyethylene pipe stitched?

Change the risers of the step -by -step guide

Now that all the materials and permits have been acquired, it is time to begin the process of replacing the risers. How can sewer pipes in apartments be changed?

Step 1: Water is overlapped on the hot and cold water supplies in the basement. Pipewater flows out of the pipes. Employees of the management company carry out this task.

You must first turn off the water supply.

Step 2: Setting up the area for work entails removing the toilet, pushing back all bedside tables, and taking down any decorative walls as needed. Subsequently, the ancient pipes are disassembled; a grinder is used to cut them off about 20 to 30 centimeters below the floor and ceiling.

A grinder is used to cut off the pipes.

An additional image of this procedure

Step 3: The neighbors are now cutting off the riser pipes above and below the floor as well. This will allow the pipe segments to be pulled out through the floors.

Comparable work in nearby apartments

Step 4: Burrs are removed from the pipes’ cut edges.

Slices need to be cleaned.

Step 5: On the locations where the old and new pipes connect, special units, clips, and clips that hold them are installed. Every elastic band is securely fastened at the proper height.

Counseling! To help the gas key, tighten the connectors.

Step 6: The pipe lowers through the floor hole to the neighbors down to the desired length (to stop connecting the riser into a single system again).

The necessary length of pipe needs to be lowered into the hole.

Step 7: A polymer pipe and connector are heated and connected at the junction using a specialized nozzle and heater. In addition, the neighbors are elevated above the floor and the pipe is merged.

The location of the upcoming relationship

Step 8: The owner’s apartment has two pipes connected to it, one from above and the other from below, that share a heater.

Joining of two pipes

Step Nine. Where a tank needs to be built to supply water to the kitchen or bathroom, marks are made on the pipe. This is where the pipe is cut.

The pipe is appropriately cut.

Step 10: The riser to laying joins. The task has been finished. It is important to check the compounds’ tightness before turning on the riser.

Linkage to the elevator

Video – replacing water supply pipes in the apartment

It’s important to keep in mind that replacing risers is a very responsible task, and every task should be completed with extreme caution. It is also not desirable to move the risers to a different location or alter their shape at will, i.e., without the management company’s consent. Once the job is finished, it should be ensured that the pipes can still be accessed, even with the room’s decorative touches. To do this, you can create lovely doors or unique hatches. However, tiles cannot be used to block the water pipelines; in the event of an accident, the water will escape sideways.

Water supply riser replacement in the apartment

An example of a housing account

Putting in a new riser

The most depressing effects of using pipes after their operational period might be

Riser for cold water

Riser for the hot water supply

Sometimes it’s harder to get along with your neighbors.

The aged, corroded riser

You must first turn off the water supply.

A grinder is used to cut off the pipes.

An additional image of this procedure

Comparable work in nearby apartments

Slices need to be cleaned.

The necessary length of pipe needs to be lowered into the hole.

The location of the upcoming relationship

Joining of two pipes

The pipe is appropriately cut.

Linkage to the elevator

In this situation, a management company is essential.

Redesigning the apartment is another justification for changing the water supply riser.

An illustration of the sewage risers’ and the apartment’s CVS’s technical state

Implementation

I think I did a good job of outlining which pipes work best for heating an apartment when bimetallic radiators are installed. Metal, of course.

According to the captain’s evidence, you have to acknowledge that the area that can withstand the lowest value will be the weakest in the case of a hydraulic jacket, which are common in heating systems. T.e. It will just fall apart, causing the apartment to flood. Thus, it is important to install a radiator that can withstand hydraulic boards in order to make the eyeliner reliable.

And if so, the old system’s dismantling required careful planning.

I’ll disassemble the cast-iron radiator and a portion of the pipe.

The image that is being provided demonstrates that I won’t need to use a grinder for any special cutting tasks.

1. The first option is to unscrew the old radiator, the installation of ball valves and join the new bimetallic;
2. The second option provides for the same option, but with the replacement of a three -way crane acting as a bypass;
3. The third option was in early manufacture of part of the system and its accession to the riser using the drives.

The image displays both the deleted segment and the artificial eyeliner portion.

Sensibly, I selected the third option, taking into account that the riser had become unusable after many years of operation. In order to achieve this, I took measurements and placed an order for the eyeliner from a skilled welder. As a result, my tasks were as follows:

• Develop a coupling;
• Cut the riser below;
• Cut the thread on it with a dwarf;
• Attach a new eyeliner and install a radiator.

The current GOST 6357-73 allows for the following sizes, for those who are interested:

Product length, mm	The length of a long threaded area, mm	Inner diameter, mm	The length of a short threaded area, mm
110	40	15	9
150	65	50	17
130	55	32	13

Cutting threads

Getting the thread cut precisely is the hardest part of the whole process. I rented a friend’s manual dwarf in standard configuration for this purpose. It’s an interesting instrument because the kit includes a ratchet with an extending collapsible lever in addition to rifled heads.

The set’s collapsible nozzles are a nice feature. Interchangeable incisors are fitted with four pieces under the upper cover of each. If damaged, replacing damaged incisors is a simple process and far less expensive than purchasing a new dick.

With the help of the ratchet’s switching mechanism, you can adjust the cutting head’s direction of motion.

Pictured here is a manual dwarf.

This instrument permits:

1. cut a thread from half an inch to an inch with a quarter;
2. Cut the thread from one and a half to two inches.

Plus: I appreciated that the set included a guide pipe in addition to interchangeable nozzles, or dies. It is a length of pipe, Ø, that is marginally larger than an employee. Because of him, even if the supply pipe is not perfectly cut, the thread can be easily cut.

• First, we clean the edge of the pipe from burrs and rust;

It is crucial that you don’t skip this phase! The pipe’s edge can be cleaned and the chamfer can be removed with the aid of a file.

• Then we lubricate the pipe, and also apply grease to the cutting mechanism itself;
• We put the direction of movement on the ratchet fixer, focusing on the arrow;
• We put on a guide pipe on the edge of the pipe;
• We begin rotation;
• After a pair of revolutions, we stop and switch the rattle for movement in the opposite direction. This is caused by the need to remove chips;
• We are committing half a turn;
• Again switch the rattle to the working position and cut the thread further.

Such a result is necessary.

Assembly

After setting up every prerequisite for a connection, I started working on the case. This is how the instruction appears:

• Instead of a standing old coupling, I wound a new one (in Scheme No. 3), at the same time changing the locknut (4);
• Heathed both pipes and drove the coupling to a short thread;

Everything is very clear and easy to understand.

Pay attention to how the axes of the connected pipes coincide; if they don’t, a cast-iron coupling’s thread may become disrupted.

• He squeezed the coupling with a countrogike.

Len, full of nitrogen. Flax gives it tightness, and paint keeps it from deteriorating.

The choice of materials

You should definitely consider a number of crucial factors when selecting the material to replace pipes:

• Medium and maximum carrier temperature.
• Pressure and workload indicators.
• The desirable life of the heat system. In most cases, everything is clear here – the longer the system will last, the better. And yet, if, for example, the house will be given under demolition in the next few years, and the heating system needs urgent repair, it will be more correct to prefer not very expensive products with a lesser service life.
• The maximum permissible load.

There are pros and cons to each type of pipe material, so it’s important to consider these features when making your choice:

• Hardware. It can be stainless steel, steel, copper, ordinary iron or galvanizing. Unprotected metals are subject to corrosion, while stainless steel or galvanizing are able to operate for decades without the slightest loss of their qualities.
• Polypropylene and polyvinyl chloride. Excellent heat transfer, the flexibility and strength of the materials makes heating systems built on their basis, extremely effective. Easily withstand temperatures up to 95 ° C and pressure up to 20 atmospheres. The manufacturer"s warranty can reach 50 years.
• Metal -plastic. Relatively inexpensive material that is perfect for the installation of heating systems. Works with temperatures up to 95 ° C, has good flexibility and reliability. The small thickness of the pipeline makes it more vulnerable to mechanical damage.

Materials and tools

Now that all the issues have been resolved, let’s get to work. You will require a lot of supplies and equipment to replace the risers.

Selecting the pipes that will have their outdated ones replaced is crucial.

Table. varieties of riser pipe.

Counseling! The best plumbers are those with experience with pipes. As a result, you can ask the management company for guidance even when selecting the materials for an independent replacement of the water conduit. Generally speaking, they advise against using steel and copper and instead advise choosing polypropylene.

Also, in order to complete these plumbing tasks, you will require:

• pipeline, a grinder – devices that are suitable for cutting pipes;
• screwdrivers;
• chisel;
• scrap;
• hammer;
• punch;
• polyethylene;
• grinder;
• personal protective equipment – protective glasses, gloves;
• building level;
• welding machine.

Some of the tools may not be useful at all depending on the type of pipe used for risers.

The aged, corroded riser

Why change heating pipes

Not only are cast-iron radiators and steel pipe heating systems outmoded ethically, but they are also ineffective.

These systems’ primary drawbacks are:

• The tendency of steel and cast iron to corrosion – after many years of operation, can occur from pipelines;
• "Overgrowing" calcium salts and a significant reduction in efficiency, clogging of radiators with rust;
• the inability to block the radiator or heating system in one room – you need to turn off the entire riser in an apartment building or a completely private house;
• the inability to lower the air from the batteries in the apartment.

The room is cold because the old wiring was frequently not done by the project or the project was not well thought out. The cold radiators and noisy risers that result from air in the coolant are additional annoyances.

What time is better to change the system

Summer is the ideal season to replace heating. In an apartment building, there are no coolants in the system, and the neighbors won’t be upset. There’s time to plan, buy supplies, and work methodically and methodically without rushing.

However, there is nowhere to go if there is a leak and the apartment’s heating pipes cannot be repaired or are not effective (it is not possible to use clamps to seal numerous rusted areas). This is because we move every year.

How to replace?

There is a wide selection of pipes available for heating. These are the traits they possess:

1. steel (ordinary carbon). Inexpensive, but prone to corrosion, overgrowing with calcium salts; pipes are connected by welding – a welding unit and a welder are required. Squints of metal during welding can spoil any repair – and it is not always possible to completely close the floor and walls at the place of welding with metal;
2. Osinkovka. Galing does not rust for many years, then behaves like a pipe made of ordinary steel. The disadvantages are the same;
3. stainless steel. Does not rust and does not overgrow. It is difficult to cook enough. It has proven itself in private houses, but not very appropriate in apartment buildings;
4. copper. Durable, expensive, it is very difficult to collect – not every specialist will fulfill a tin;
5. Stainless corrugated pipe. Does not rust and does not overgrow. Very flexible, which reduces the number of connections. Easily cut and mounted. Collects for fittings that require periodic inspection and maintenance (replacement of seals). Well tolerates the temperature difference and pressure. Does not withstand significant mechanical loads. Not the cheapest material.
6. Polypropylene pipes (PPR). Polypropylene is easily mounted and soldered, bends well, does not rust, it is not very deformed when heated, it is easily joined with metal through adapters. Inexpensive material;
7. Polyvinyl chloride pipes (PVC). Do not rust, they are not deformed little when heated, easily solder and gather for fittings. Inexpensive material;
8. Metal -plastic. It has reinforcement from aluminum tape, plastic – PVC or stitched polyethylene. Inexpensive and popular material. Mounted on special fittings, bend well, do not rust. Have a small thickness and small mechanical strength – there is a danger of damage. Withstand the temperature up to 95 ° C;
9. Pipes with a changed molecular system – pipe made of stitched polyethylene Reh. Withstand the temperature from −110 to +110 ° C, the operating temperature is up to 95 ° C, used for pipelines in when working in conditions of negative temperatures. Very durable, bend well, do not rust, mounted with fittings.

Since it makes no sense to install an expensive metal pipe in a single apartment and no one can guarantee that the engineering networks in the house are grounded, plastic and metal is generally the best option for replacing heating risers in apartments. The choice of materials in the country house is determined by the homeowner’s budget and tastes.

Lower wiring

This wiring design is a traditional two-pipe setup. Heating equipment is connected to the jumper, which is situated in the space between these contours, where the basement is installed. In this instance, the jumper consists of two risers connected at the top of the heating system. Heating components installed in the attic need to be insulated; otherwise, the first frosts may cause the hardened liquid to stagnate or the pipeline to burst. A soldering lamp can be used to solve this kind of issue; in the worst situation, welding the heating risers will be required.

It is theoretically necessary for this connection to have a good riser balance in order for the risers that are farther away from the center to function just as well as those that are closer. In actuality, this kind of balancing is not carried out, but heating is operating steadily. The difference in the heating risers’ diameter is the cause of this. To guarantee the least amount of temperature differential between the nearby and distant risers, the roser’s length from one elevator node should be kept to a minimum. When using risers in pairs, only one of them needs to have heating devices connected; the other riser can remain idle.

Installation of the device

It is essential to disconnect the eyeliner and drain the coolant before installing a new riser, so it is best to get along well with the neighbors in this situation. Experience has shown that ceilings where pipes are in contact with concrete are the most vulnerable locations on the heating system. You will have to cut it into your own apartment if there is no way to connect the riser from the neighbors’ apartment.

The connection to the system can be made in a variety of ways, depending on the material, but welding is the most dependable and popular method. The radiator pipe’s input and output must be connected via a bypass in a single-pipe circuit. The bypass should be smaller than the riser’s diameter to prevent the formation of a zone of reduced pressure in the system.

The stinging riser is installed in accordance with special sleeves during the heating system installation prior to the house being turned over, which should guarantee sound insulation. Generally speaking, the riser and the sleeve, which were initially filled with any noise-absorbing material, become farther apart over time, and as a result of the heating rush, sounds from the apartment above or below can be heard.

When replacing the heating risers in the apartment, sound insulation needs to be done without fail to prevent such issues.

Additionally, keep in mind that an apartment building’s heating risers must be balanced in order to ensure that the heat is distributed evenly throughout every room. The old buildings use a balancing valve for this.

It is pointless to specify if the coolant distribution in a high-rise building is done so in a qualitative manner because of things like carefully chosen pipe diameters.

In any event, it is preferable to leave the replacement and inspection of the heating risers to experts, as the offender will bear all consequences—financial and otherwise—should an emergency arise from unapproved actions.

In summary, the ensuing deductions can be made:

1. Any work with communication systems belonging to the housing office or other organization, Even if they are inside the apartment are not acceptable without a preliminary agreement with them. Even just drain the water without warning about this heating system is considered a violation. Subsequent "flirting" with employees of these services will not lead to anything good.
2. When choosing risers from new materials, you must first check with the technical indicators of the old system and purchase those that are compatible with them.
3. It is better to entrust the replacement of heating risers to professionals, since in the case of an accident during independent work, the client is always wrong.
4. Residents should not pay for the change of pipes, If their service life has ended, or they are in critical condition.

Otherwise, changing the riser is a straightforward task that can be completed during the day with the right expertise.

Both the building management and the apartment owner are accountable for replacing the risers in a privatized building. Owners must realize that although they own their own unit, the building’s infrastructure—such as the gas, water, and heating risers—is usually maintained by the building’s community. In most cases, these crucial parts need to be replaced and maintained by the building management. Owners, however, might be partially financially liable, particularly if their unit’s negligence or misuse caused the riser damage. In order to guarantee prompt replacement and fair cost distribution, which ultimately improves the building’s overall safety and efficiency, owners and management must communicate with one another.

Options for schemes for heating

If a one-pipe vertical system was preferred, the feeding line should be installed in the attic or on the highest floor. Each heating device will be able to receive coolant from the vertical heating riser as a result.

This has the benefit of using pipes sparingly, but it also has the drawback of making it impossible to turn off heating appliances separately.

The supply line and the reverse line for a two-pipe vertical heating system with lower wiring should be installed either directly on the floor or just above it. As a result, each radiator can supply its own coolant. Although this option lengthens the pipeline, it gives you the flexibility to change the heating and disconnect the heating device whenever you want.

The reverse and supply pipelines are laid around the perimeter of the horizontal two-pipe system. Every heating appliance needs to have a unique crane that lets you let air out of the building. This plan calls for using radiators with a lower connection and poetically disconnecting the heating.

When choosing a two-pipe stoem collector system, a feed and reverse manifold must be installed. Heating pipes made of plastic are used during installation.

Replacing pipes

The communications contained within the apartment, which are only accessible by the owner and residents, do not raise concerns regarding their ownership. This belongs to a private person. Additionally, the owner is free to take any action deemed necessary. Naturally, if this does not result in his neighbors’ property or other rights and interests being negatively impacted.

The apartment’s owner is entitled to:

• replace old metal pipes with more modern;
• put new faucets, counters;
• increase or reduce the amount of plumbing;
• change batteries and t. D.

He pays for all of this out of his own free will. There is no reason to be surprised by this or to question the validity of such acts. The potential for these modifications and advancements is a part of ownership.

However, opinions vary about replacing the risers, which are the thick pipes that unite all floors and apartments into one.

Residents feel that the management company is in charge of the common areas, and they assert that since these are the shared property of the apartment building’s owners, they are accountable for any pipe replacement or repair. Let’s attempt to determine who is correct.

Stages of replacing risers in an apartment building

The houses contain the risers listed below in total:

• sewer;
• supply of cold and hot water;
• heating systems.

Their replacement will typically occur in the same order. Specifically:

1. Overlapping the riser. If a replacement in the heating system or water supply is carried out, then you need to wait for the flow of the entire liquid from the system. If it is necessary to block the water supply so that the residents do not drain the water.
2. Dismantling of old pipes. It is better that locksmiths from the management company do it. If the riser changes throughout the house, then it will be necessary to pull the pipes from the inter -story floor. Such a procedure (especially when working with old cast -iron sewage pipes) can be quite difficult.
3. New communications are mounted.
4. The supply of water or coolant opens up and there is a control of the absence of leaks.

When replacement takes place throughout the entire house, this is the best option. The truth is that the leak is in the interstory floors. If you replace just one apartment, there will be a lot more work to be done later on (in an emergency).

Necessary accessories

Transformer-type welding apparatus

A few extra supplies and a few specific tools are required for the installation process to go smoothly. In this instance, the pipeline’s final list is determined by the method of connection—welding or threading—that is ultimately chosen.

• Welding machine;
• Privares with long and short threads for joining radiators and locking equipment;
• Ring -shaped, three pieces for each radiator;
• Three shots for carts and jumper;
• Three valves Du-20

• Everything that is listed above with the exception of welding equipment, instead of which you will need a trash or a dwarm;
• two tee of cast iron or brass;
• two couplings;
• vice for fixing parts while cutting threads

Advice: Only use contemporary ball valves; their dependability greatly outweighs that of old screw models.

Ball valve apparatus

Reasons for installing a new riser

A vertical pipeline needs to be replaced when the metal structure reaches the end of its useful life or when the bathroom needs to be fully repaired.

One of two methods is used to replace it, depending on the circumstances:

• planned – with wear of water pipes;
• emergency – in the event of a malfunction and the appearance of leak.

The "native" apartment risers in the old building are composed of cast-iron or galvanized pipes. Because of their susceptibility to corrosion, metal structures need to be replaced.

The primary threat to cast-iron and steel pipelines is corrosion, which "corrodes" the risers more quickly in hot water than in cold.

It has been observed that the interstory ceiling pipes experience the most wear. As a result, the new pipe should be docked from the old one outside the ceiling, preferably in the neighbor’s bathroom who lives one floor up or down.

The service life of metal pipes is approximately 25 years. They actually last a lot longer. However, forty years later, emergency service is provided.

Because metal pipes have the potential to burst at any time after a warranty expires, using them is not advised.

It is advised to replace the pipes even if they appear intact after the operational period is over. This is because the deteriorated pipe could suddenly burst, causing significant material damage to the apartment’s owners as well as the neighbor’s survivor.

It is advised to replace the pipe replacement during the overhaul stage when operating in planned mode. The pipeline is typically placed to "hide" into the wall when designing modern interiors, making it difficult to access in an emergency.

If you have aspirations of adding a new jacuzzi or buying bathroom accessories, the transfer of a vertical pipeline is unavoidable.

Polypropylene usually replaces cast iron pipes. And given the polymer’s many indisputable benefits, this decision is entirely justified. These ought to consist of:

• resistance to corrosion and aggressive influences;
• the smoothness of the inner walls, which prevents the accumulation of lime plaque on the inner surface of the pipeline;
• high strength;
• environmental Safety.

Conventional metal-plastic and polypropylene pipes of the appropriate diameter can be used to supply cold water to the pipeline; pipes meant for heating systems can supply hot water. Their stronger and more resilient to deformation qualities set them apart.

According to the manufacturers, polypropylene pipes have a 50-year service life and can supply cold water for up to 100 years.

All hygienic requirements are met by the inner surface of polypropylene pipes that come into contact with drinking water, and the products’ internal diameter remains constant while they are in use.

Polypropylene pipe installation is far quicker than that of metal structures. With the help of welding technology, you can establish a solid connection quickly and easily.

What can still be done to improve heating in the apartment

If you’ve set yourself the goal of enhancing the apartment’s heating, it’s possible that the suggested actions won’t be sufficient. A satisfactory outcome frequently enables us to obtain standard window insulation, which lowers heat loss. It might also be helpful to use the heat-reflecting film that is attached to the wall behind the radiator. These steps, along with the replacement of the heating system’s pipes and clogged batteries, will guarantee that the apartment receives extra heat.

Behind the heating radiator is a foil screen.

Consider how to update the apartment’s heating for an individual if you wish to be completely independent and not rely on the conditions of turning on the central heating. Although this is a difficult task, you may be able to obtain permission to install your own gas boiler and turn off the central heating if you have a gas column.

It goes without saying that this will involve a large financial outlay and ongoing coordination, neither of which are guaranteed to be successful. However, switching from a central to an individual heating system will provide you control over the temperature in your apartment and the option to turn on the heat whenever you need it.

Many times, especially in older homes, the heating system has been operating for a long time. Occasionally, corrosion causes the salt deposits in the pipes to clog, allowing the system to leak. Replacing radiators, risers, and pipes is one way to enhance the apartment’s heating.

Replacing the riser of the legal aspect

The water riser is a vertical pipeline segment that has a locking valve installed at its base. He is a shared asset.

Because of this, the management organization (ZhEU or ZhEC) should replace it without charging the owner or employer extra.

Attachment of the taper riser to the collector

Scheme of combined assembly

Old apartments with rickety rollers

Risers for the water supply in the audit hatch

Wiring with open pipes

Insulation using cold water

The collector scheme’s device

Connecting risers to polymer pipes

All the apartment owner needs to do is submit an application to the HOA manager, stating the issue that needs to be resolved. Only in the event that the house is not the property is there an exception. In this case, residents bear the financial burden of maintaining common property.

Everything on the site, from the riser to the first locking valve, is considered common property. This section falls under the category of common property if the mixer itself does not have a locking device.

The risers are replaced when the pipeline needs to be replaced because they are outfitted with cranes that allow them to expand or fully encircle the water supply.

The apartment’s owner will be responsible for all costs if he decides to move the riser as part of the redevelopment or if he plans to perform significant repairs and create a hidden gasket for the pipeline at the same time.

Apartment risers and other redevelopments involving the use of house property need to be coordinated with managing organizations. He can only assign the installers of the management organization or private company to complete the installers’ work by giving them the necessary written permission.

Only the parts located after a locking valve must be repaired and replaced by the employer or apartment owner on his own dime.

How to change the heating riser with your own hands

Polypropylene is the material of choice for most contemporary heating systems. It is reasonably priced, has a pleasing appearance, and stands out for having excellent technical and functional qualities. The best scenario for the owner of an apartment in a multi-story building is if the neighbor has already replaced the heating pipes with polypropylene ones. If not, you will need to talk to him in order to connect the riser. After the pipe is replaced, you won’t be able to turn on the heating system if no one resides in the apartment.

How to disable the heating riser before replacing

The risers are connected in pairs in the event that the coolant in the system rises from below. Look at the location of the jumper in the next apartment to determine what kind of neighbor yours is connected to. If the heat carrier supply originates from above, you will need to block two valves in the basement and attic in order to turn it off.

It’s crucial to identify the entrance accurately in order to locate the appropriate valve; once this is done, it will be clear where the necessary is. It is required to unscrew the plugs, open the discharge, and wait for the water to merge from the system after the valve has overlapped.

It’s critical to identify the desired basement valve accurately.

Replacement of metal with polypropylene

If the neighbor has already replaced the pipes, there won’t be any issues. Purchase equal-diameter pipes. Cut off the old riser, fit a new pipe into the overlap, and use the transition coupling to connect it to the pipe of the subsequent apartment. After that, take off the pipe’s foil covering. Remove the outdated radiator pipe and install the crane. It has a transition coupling fitted in it that is linked to the riser.

Agree to have the neighbor install a coupling in his apartment if he has old pipes on top. You’ll need to cut off the pipe beneath the overlap, leaving space to cut five or six threads of the thread, if trying to find a common language proves to be unsuccessful. The remaining tasks are the same as they are when attaching to polypropylene pipes.

Attaching a riser and transition coupling beneath an overlap to a metal pipe

The apartment’s heating riser replacement is not particularly difficult. It is advisable to replace them along with the porch and hire professionals who can do a high-quality installation. Because everyone in the neighborhood will be aware of the date and time of the installation work being done in their apartments, it will be much easier and less expensive. Thus, you can steer clear of a lot of issues and disagreements.

What to change

In terms of operational loads, let’s define a centralized heating system.

• The operating temperature according to the current SNiP can reach 95 degrees. The vast majority of modern materials have just such a maximum operating temperature. As adopted, there is a nuance. Under certain circumstances, the temperature in the heating system may significantly exceed 100 s. At the same time, water does not turn into steam only due to excessive pressure. A typical example of such a situation is when the nozzle in the elevator node is removed and diverted to the heat energy supplier to change the diameter. At the same time, the elevator’s subsose is extinguished, and water from the supply pipeline enters the heating system instead of the mixture, which in severe frosts can reach a temperature of 130-140 s.

The elevator’s scheme is shown in the figure. The lower flange must be drowned out after removing the nozzle in order for the heating to function.

• The standard working pressure in the heating system ranges from 3.5 to 5 kgf/cm2. Alas, there was no catch: the human factor affects the real pressure in the heating system (long -term and short -term). Unfortunately, in the field of housing and communal services, not only exemplary sober and educated professionals of high levels work. It is worth the locksmith not to close the valves during the tests of the route to the density-and the pressure in the heating system will increase to 10-12 atmospheres. It is worth it to quickly open the house valves when starting up-and a hydraulic waist for a split second will raise the pressure and completely to 15-25 kgf/cm2.

• Finally, risers and eyeliners to the water radiator are subjected to mechanical influences. Especially where the family has small children.

Thus, the suggestions for the selection of materials.

Osinkovka

This is a standard water and gas pipeline with a zinc coating on both the inside and outside. What provides zinc?

• Corrosive stability. Pipes stop rusting.
• Lack of deposits. The author had to open the risers from the galley who had served more than half a century. Inside they were no different from the new pipe.

The pipe also has all the benefits of steel, including the highest mechanical strength and resistance to temperatures in any area that can be heated by water. Including – concerning the force. The pipe’s installation and processing complexity is a significant disadvantage. The replacement of the heating and eyeliner riser will require several dozen manual thread cuts. Furthermore, precise adjustments to the pipe and drive sizes will be required.

A small shift in the pipe’s axis necessitates the use of multiple fittings, as the image makes evident.

Stainless corrugated pipe

Temperature and pressure are also tolerated by the corrugated stainless steel pipe. It is advised to operate at 100 degrees Celsius and apply 12 atmospheres of pressure. 40–45 kgf/cm2 of this material has previously been fed into pipelines. There is stainless steel, and she doesn’t fear deposits or corrosion either. What other aspects of the content might be intriguing?

• The pipe is easily bent in an arbitrary direction with a small bending radius, while without losing its strength. This greatly simplifies the adjustment of the carts: it is not necessary to verify millimeters.

Nuance: There is an opposite side to pipes’ flexibility. There is a limit to how many times one can bend; metal fatigue cannot be eliminated. A youngster will eventually cause the corrugated pipe that leads to the battery to collapse if they swing on it.

• Pipes are connected by compression fittings. To assemble an arbitrarily complex pipeline, only an inexpensive pipeline and a couple of divorce keys are needed.

The well-known South Korean Pipe Confulso running meter retails for roughly 200 rubles in the Russian market and has a 20 mm diameter.

Because the pipes are flexible, it should be easy to assemble the eyeliner and riser.

Why is it necessary

There are principally two causes:

• Wear of old pipes. Corrosion inevitably makes a pipe from a corrosion-imperial steel; In addition, the steel pipe is overgrown with rust and deposits. Strictly speaking, this is the problem of housing and communal services; However, to wait for the planned replacement of pipes is quite problematic. If you make a house overhaul – why not solve the problem yourself?

• Changing the location and configuration of heating devices. For example, you decided to install an additional room in a cool room or transfer the radiator to another wall, where it will not prevent you from putting new furniture.

Features of the placement of risers in the rooms

The outer walls contain heating risers. The riser is best positioned in the corner of an angular room to shield the walls from damp and cold air. Additionally, they consider the fact that the riser:

• Put simultaneously with heating appliances or after installation.
• Cannot be placed next to flammable materials. At a heat carrier temperature of 105 degrees, the distance to such materials should be at least 10 cm.
• In single -pipe systems, the riser is placed 15 cm from the window opening with eyeliner lengths about 40 cm long.
• If the distance to the heating device is less than half a meter, then it is not necessary to make a slope, and if more, then the slope is made 5-10 mm towards the battery.
• In houses with several floors, fastening depends on the height of the floors. At a height of less than 3 m of fastening, do not put. If the height is larger, then the mounts are mounted at half the floor height.

Diagram showing where the heating riser is located in the corner room

Dismantling of heating risers

The efficiency of the heating system is increased by replacing it.

It’s crucial to disassemble all of the apartment’s outdated carts and radiators—or, better yet, the entire riser—in order to maximize efficiency. It is preferable, if at all possible, to reach an understanding with neighbors both above and below so that the new pipes run the entire length of the entrance.

Determining which kind of pipes should come first should also be discussed with the neighbors. This determines the amount of work, costs, and installation technology. Should the consensus fail, it will be necessary to cut off the old communications within its living space and install universal couplings for the connection in order to reduce the likelihood of leaks.

In any event, it is preferable to inform the housing office staff when replacing the heating system wiring within the same apartment. If you have to block the riser during the heating season’s repair period, this is unavoidable. It is best to replace pipes or a separate fragment during the warm season, but tightness checks can only be performed at the start of the heating season. The worst-case scenario is a leak that occurs when the system is launched from the hydraulic boom. Additional clamps can be installed at the system element joints to counteract this.

The choice of suitable material

Stainless steel or plastic pipes are typically used to install the heating system riser. Let’s examine their characteristics:

Plastic

Polypropylene fittings and pipes

Due to a number of indisputable benefits, plastic pipes are currently widely used in the arrangement of heating pipelines:

1. Simplicity of performing installation work with your own hands. Compounds are mainly carried out using a special pipe soldering iron.

Fixing plastic pipes with a soldering iron

1. Flexibility. Polypropylene products can bend, which allows you to perform contours of various obstacles without the use of additional fittings.
2. A light weight. This greatly simplifies the transportation and lifting of pipes to the upper floors of apartment buildings.
3. Relatively low price. Plastic is always cheaper than metal.
4. Lack of corrosion processes.

However, before choosing polypropylene, be aware that it is not intended for use in harsh environments and that its strength characteristics strictly adhere to the heating system’s full-time norms. Examples of these norms include:

• Pressure surges in the heating main from 4-5 to 10-12 atmospheres. This usually happens only because of the negligence of locksmiths on duty on the boiler room, but, unfortunately, with constant regularity.
• Slaws. Are formed at the time of the sharp launch of the heating system after a summer break.
• Critical temperatures. They can be observed during the annual spring testing of the heating main.

Advice: If you must use plastic pipes, choose reinforced ones that can tolerate much higher temperatures.

An example of a polypropylene reinforced pipe

Metal

An image of metallic pipes used in heating systems

Everything is precisely the opposite in this instance. Products made of steel lack the flexibility of plastic and are more costly and heavier. On the other hand, they can tolerate high internal pressure rates and any temperature that the supplied coolant can reach. Therefore, it is best to consider installing a metal pipeline if you want to feel secure in the stable operation of your heating system.

Using a galvanized Du-20 pipe is a great choice in terms of practicality and dependability since it is shielded from corrosion processes, among other benefits.

An example of a Du-20 steel water and gas pipeline coated to prevent corrosion

At whose expense

Homeowners are legally in charge of the common house’s contents.

The Criminal Code is required to perform and cover the cost of any necessary repairs or replacements if the sewer riser has failed and needs to be paid for with money given by the owners.

These costs are covered by home owners’ utility bills under the heading "Contents and repair of housing."

Funds may be withheld from payments for significant repairs if riser replacements are made on all floors.

When a homeowner wishes to replace a functional riser for any personal reason—for instance, during a bathroom renovation—a whole new scenario arises.

In this instance, the owner bears all costs associated with replacing the riser; the work is also done on an independent basis.

The landlord, or municipal authorities, is responsible for covering the cost of replacing risers in public housing.

In this instance, at the employer’s request to the local government in charge of providing housing and public services throughout the city.

What is a heating rush

A heating riser is a pipeline that joins the system’s components and ensures that coolant in heating devices circulates normally. Risers are reciprocal and giving. While the latter gather and remove the cooled liquid, the former dilute the coolant into radiators. One thermal power system handles both tasks in a one-pipe system.

There are two ways that the coolant can flow: from top to bottom and from bottom up. Special compensators are mounted on the main risers of centralized heat supply systems. The heating system has shut-off valves installed for an immediate stop.

Scheme of disabling in two-pipe heating systems

Clarity is essential when determining who is responsible for replacing risers in an apartment that has been privatized. For homeowners, having a clear understanding of who is responsible for these crucial maintenance duties guarantees a seamless experience. The onus of responsibility often rests with the homeowner.

The individual homeowner is typically in charge of maintaining and replacing risers in privatized apartments. This implies that the homeowner is accountable for taking care of any problems or improvements that these essential parts of the heating and insulation system require.

It is imperative to refer to the particular policies and guidelines established by your municipality or housing association. There may occasionally be agreements or shared accountability for resident-led group maintenance projects. Knowing where your responsibilities lie requires that you comprehend these agreements.

For a home’s insulation and heating systems to operate effectively, riser replacement and routine maintenance are necessities. Ignoring these responsibilities can result in inefficiencies, higher energy expenses, and even possible safety risks. As a result, homeowners should place a high priority on learning about their obligations and acting when necessary.

Homeowners can maintain the longevity and effectiveness of their insulation and heating systems by being proactive and knowledgeable about who is responsible for replacing risers in privatized apartments. Maintaining a comfortable and well-kept living environment can be achieved by streamlining the process and providing clear communication with housing associations or other pertinent authorities.

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